Reviving We Can't Hear a Historical Race That Hasn't Been Run How to Take in Over 70 Years Great Action Shots Like the One on This Cover Tableofcontents
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WWW.MOUNTAINEERS.ORG JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2014 • VOLUME 108 • NO. 1 MountaineerEXPLORE • LEARN • CONSERVE exciting and unpredictable mixed climbing mentoring women in the lead listening to animals reviving we can't hear a historical race that hasn't been run how to take in over 70 years great action shots like the one on this cover tableofcontents Jan/Feb 2014 » Volume 108 » Number 1 Enriching the community by helping people explore, conserve, learn about, and enjoy the lands and waters of the Pacific Northwest and beyond. 14 Mountaineers to the Rescue The Pierce County Red Cross honors six Mountaineers 18 Beauty of Unpredictability An interview with mixed-climber Roger Strong 22 Women in the Lead 10 An all-female climbing mentor group led by Stef Schiller 23 Have Camera Will Capture Mike Warren discusses his outdoor photography tricks 6 DONOR HIGHLIGHT Bill Hecker with a vision of world-class climbing 7 Impact GIVING The plan to add friction slabs 8 OUTDOOR Education Sisters of Adventure by Carolyn and Isabelle Stratford 10 Conservation currents 18 The importance and conservation of bees 12 nature'S waY Experts on sound, from underwater to extinction 16 MEMBER HIGHLIGHT Nina Crampton and her 10 essential answers 28 RETRO rewinD The Patrol Race is back after over 70 years 23 DiscOVER THE MOuntaineers Mountaineer magazine would like to thank The Mountaineers If you are thinking of joining—or have joined and aren’t sure where to Foundation for its financial assistance. The Foundation operates start—why not set a date to Meet The Mountainers? Check the as a separate organization from The Mountaineers, which has received about one-third of the Foundation’s gifts to various Branching Out section of the magazine (page 32) for times and nonprofit organizations. locations of informational meetings at each of our seven branches. Mountaineer uses . on the cover: Mikhail Lenitsyn, skiing Paradise, Rainier - October 2013 photographer: Mike Warren 2 the mountaineer » jan/feb 2013 tyingin Taking It to the Next Level The Mountaineers is a non- profit organization, founded Last month I was invited to talk about The in 1906 and dedicated to the Mountaineers at the Bellevue Rotary breakfast. responsible enjoyment and protection of natural areas. While considering various topics, I thought about what The Mountaineers is like today Board OF directors OFFICERS compared with who we were two years ago President Gavin Woody, 2012-14 when I became board president and found President Elect Dan Lauren, 2012-14 myself writing my first tying in letter. VP Properties Tab Wilkins, 2012-14 VP Publishing Lisa Berntsen, 2012-14 My wife Sara and I were expecting our first Treasurer Steve McClure, 2012-14 child back then. So it was no surprise when Secretary John Ohlson, 2012-14 I felt compelled to open the letter with a directORS at large Lorna Corrigan, 2011-14 personal story about my first significant Rich Draves, 2011-14 outdoor experience. I was a 12 year old Boy Lee Fromson, 2013-16 Scout on a 50-mile backpack that ended on the Chloe Harford, 2012-15 summit of Mt. Whitney. It was the hardest thing Leah Schulz, 2012-15 Kara Stone, 2013-16 I had ever done. Matt Sullivan, 2013-16 In the letter, I mentioned that the experience Tom Varga, 2012-15 Gene Yore, 2011-14 planted the seed of conservation in my young Branch directORS mind. Ample time on the trail gave me a chance to connect with nature and truly Ken Small, Bellingham gain an appreciation for the natural world, but that’s not all it did. The experience Harlan Brown, Everett also provided the most satisfying sense of accomplishment I could have imagined Cheryl Talbert, Foothills at that age. As an observer of the goals I set and challenges I pursue – in the Vern Brown, Kitsap Henry Romer, Olympia outdoors and in life – Sara would suggest that the feeling is something I’ve been Bill Deters, Seattle working to achieve ever since. Jim Feltus, Tacoma Being a Mountaineers member and outdoor enthusiast, you understand what I’m EXecutiVE DirectOR Martinique Grigg talking about. Your outdoor experiences, like mine, were likely transformative – EXecutiVE PUBLISHER inspiring personal growth and a connection to the natural world. This is really what Helen Cherullo we’ve been working to inspire with our youth programs. directOR OF DEVELOPMENT So back to the Rotary talk. My theme was one of reinvention – not by way of AND COmmunicatiONS Mary Hsue changing The Mountaineers so much that we appeared to be entirely new, but by PublicatiONS Manager presenting us in a different way. Bold, courageous, innovative, passionate, driven. Suzanne Gerber What we have always been, simply by virtue of what we do in the outdoors. PROOFREADERS Kristina Ciari, Chris Pyper, Emily White, The financial strength of The Mountaineers and the success of our new youth and Darian Smolar conservation programs were a large part of the story. As were our volunteers and PHOTOgraphers the tradition of volunteerism that has persisted over our 100-year history. Mike and Jessica Baker, Kennan Harvey, Jeff Hunt, Will Peterman, John Rijhoff, This bold re-invention is one that the greater outdoor community did not expect Rick Rutz, Doug Schurman, Mikey to see. But I believe that it’s one that Mountaineers members hoped to see. If 2013 Schaefer, Scott Simper, Noeleen Stewart, was a year of re-establishing our “brand” within the outdoor community, then 2014 Mike Warren, Emanuel Dimitri Volakis, will be about taking it to the next level. George Wichman, Diana Yuen Although getting here has been a lot of work, it’s been a great ride too. It’s The Mountaineer (ISSN 0027-2620) is also been my honor to serve as board president during this exciting evolution published bimonthly by The Mountaineers, 7700 Sand Point Way NE, Seattle, WA in The Mountaineers organization. Now I’ll have more time to get out into the 98115. 206-521-6000; 206-523-6763 fax. backcountry. Members receive a subscription as part of their annual dues. Non-member I hope to see you out there! subscriptions to the Mountaineer are $32. Periodicals postage paid at Seattle, WA and additional mailing offices. Postmaster: Send address changes to the Mountaineer, 7700 Sand Point Way NE, Seattle, WA 98115. Opinions expressed in articles are those of the authors and do not necessarily Gavin Woody, Board President represent the views of The Mountaineers. www.mountaineers.org 3 editorsnote History and Sustainability Now that I've been working here for three bees and a discovery by a member of our very months, I feel I am finally getting a grasp of own naturalist committee. what this amazing organization is all about. And for an update on the next installation to I'm understanding it's heart and soul; what make our climbing facility the most compre- makes it run, and meeting the many volun- hensive in the world, read about how to help teers, staff and members who keep it going. the success of our friction slabs project. I am constantly impressed with the amount of While you're reading all these great history we share — and how much that history articles, I'm excited to share how the maga- is still alive. We've started a new section in the zine has become even more sustainable. Last magazine, based on just that, called "Retro issue, we introduced the first ever, all color Rewind." In this article, we go over the details Darcy Kiefel Mountaineer magazine. We changed the paper of the Patrol Race: a unique ski race we are Suzanne joined the staff of from 10% to 30% recycled, and made it all reviving this year at Meany Lodge. The Mountaineers as the one kind of paper. This opened doors I didn't Publications Manager in In this issue, you will find a story by expect. You see, we've been printing out of September 2013. two of our youngest writers. As sisters, state (across the country, in fact) for all these questions, comments, 14-year old Isabelle and 16-year old Carolyn years due to the cost of production. Well, a suggestions: talk about taking part in our youth outdoor different press can be used when the paper [email protected] adventure club. is consistent and a local, sustainable Seattle printer contacted me — not only matching but Speaking of notable Mountaineer members, Mountaineer November/December beating our previous costs. read about six of our climbers who were corrections: p. 5 - I’m Where September/October recently honored by The Pierce County Red I know, I've been told, "the trucks and trains summit photo taken by Norm Buckley. Cross for their brave rescue on Ingalls Peak. would be running anyway." And it's true that p. 9 - Correct spelling: Weyerhaeuser. one magazine printing locally might not We have a highlighted member and a high- p. 37 - Peruvian Andes correct photo impact the overall carbon footprint to make lighed donor — both of whom have put in credit: Urbano Huayna, Apus Peru a difference in the world of sustainability. But countless volunteer hours. We have a story it's a start — and it's saving our organization about women mentor climbers who are paving some money. the way for more female leadership in the climbing world. Yes, they are also dedicated A local printer means one more thing for volunteers. those of us living in Washington: You'll get your magazine sooner. Shipping across the Our feature on Roger Strong talks about his country at periodical rates sometimes took unusual introduction to climbing - on a fishing over 2 weeks. It's possible we've cut that down boat.