Winter Newsletter 2010
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In Memoriam I Met Ralph in 1989 When I Moved to Wolverhampton, Through Our Involvement with the Wolverhampton Mountain- Eering Club
Obituaries Matterhorn. Edward Theodore Compton. 1880. Watercolour. 43 x 68cm. (Alpine Club Collection HE118P) 399 I N M E M ORI am 401 Ralph Atkinson 1952 - 2014 In Memoriam I met Ralph in 1989 when I moved to Wolverhampton, through our involvement with the Wolverhampton Mountain- eering Club. Weekends in Wales The Alpine Club Obituary Year of Election and day trips to Matlock and the (including to ACG) Roaches became the foundation for extended expeditions to the Ralph Atkinson 1997 Alps including, in 1991, a fine Una Bishop 1982 six-day ski traverse of the Haute John Chadwick 1978 Route, Argentière to Zermatt, John Clegg 1955 and ascents in 1993 of the Mönch Dennis Davis 1977 and Jungfrau. Descending the Gordon Gadsby 1985 Jungfrau in a storm, we could Johannes Villiers de Graaff 1953 barely see each other. I slipped David Jamieson 1999 in the new snow and had to self- Emlyn Jones 1944 arrest, aided by the tension in the Brian ‘Ned’ Kelly 1968 rope to Ralph. It worked, and I Neil Mackenzie Asp.2011, 2015 Ralph Atkinson climbing on the slabs of Fournel, was soon back on the ridge, but Richard Morgan 1960 near Argentière, Ecrins. (Andy Clarke) when we dropped below the John Peacock 1966 Rottalsattel and could speak to Bill Putnam 1972 each other again, he had no idea that anything untoward had happened. Stephanie Roberts 2011 I recall long journeys by car enlivened by his wide-ranging taste in music. Les Swindin 1979 The keynote of many outings was his sense of fun. There were long stories, John Tyson 1952 jokes or pithy one-liners. -
Layout 1 Copy
STACK ROCK 2020 An illustrated guide to sea stack climbing in the UK & Ireland - Old Harry - - Old Man of Stoer - - Am Buachaille - - The Maiden - - The Old Man of Hoy - - over 200 more - Edition I - version 1 - 13th March 1994. Web Edition - version 1 - December 1996. Web Edition - version 2 - January 1998. Edition 2 - version 3 - January 2002. Edition 3 - version 1 - May 2019. Edition 4 - version 1 - January 2020. Compiler Chris Mellor, 4 Barnfield Avenue, Shirley, Croydon, Surrey, CR0 8SE. Tel: 0208 662 1176 – E-mail: [email protected]. Send in amendments, corrections and queries by e-mail. ISBN - 1-899098-05-4 Acknowledgements Denis Crampton for enduring several discussions in which the concept of this book was developed. Also Duncan Hornby for information on Dorset’s Old Harry stacks and Mick Fowler for much help with some of his southern and northern stack attacks. Mike Vetterlein contributed indirectly as have Rick Cummins of Rock Addiction, Rab Anderson and Bruce Kerr. Andy Long from Lerwick, Shetland. has contributed directly with a lot of the hard information about Shetland. Thanks are also due to Margaret of the Alpine Club library for assistance in looking up old journals. In late 1996 Ben Linton, Ed Lynch-Bell and Ian Brodrick undertook the mammoth scanning and OCR exercise needed to transfer the paper text back into computer form after the original electronic version was lost in a disk crash. This was done in order to create a world-wide web version of the guide. Mike Caine of the Manx Fell and Rock Club then helped with route information from his Manx climbing web site. -
Reviving We Can't Hear a Historical Race That Hasn't Been Run How to Take in Over 70 Years Great Action Shots Like the One on This Cover Tableofcontents
WWW.MOUNTAINEERS.ORG JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2014 • VOLUME 108 • NO. 1 MountaineerEXPLORE • LEARN • CONSERVE exciting and unpredictable mixed climbing mentoring women in the lead listening to animals reviving we can't hear a historical race that hasn't been run how to take in over 70 years great action shots like the one on this cover tableofcontents Jan/Feb 2014 » Volume 108 » Number 1 Enriching the community by helping people explore, conserve, learn about, and enjoy the lands and waters of the Pacific Northwest and beyond. 14 Mountaineers to the Rescue The Pierce County Red Cross honors six Mountaineers 18 Beauty of Unpredictability An interview with mixed-climber Roger Strong 22 Women in the Lead 10 An all-female climbing mentor group led by Stef Schiller 23 Have Camera Will Capture Mike Warren discusses his outdoor photography tricks 6 DONOR HIGHLIGHT Bill Hecker with a vision of world-class climbing 7 Impact GIVING The plan to add friction slabs 8 OUTDOOR Education Sisters of Adventure by Carolyn and Isabelle Stratford 10 Conservation currents 18 The importance and conservation of bees 12 nature'S waY Experts on sound, from underwater to extinction 16 MEMBER HIGHLIGHT Nina Crampton and her 10 essential answers 28 RETRO rewinD The Patrol Race is back after over 70 years 23 DiscOVER THE MOuntaineers Mountaineer magazine would like to thank The Mountaineers If you are thinking of joining—or have joined and aren’t sure where to Foundation for its financial assistance. The Foundation operates start—why not set a date to Meet The Mountainers? Check the as a separate organization from The Mountaineers, which has received about one-third of the Foundation’s gifts to various Branching Out section of the magazine (page 32) for times and nonprofit organizations. -
Mountaineering Books Under £10
Mountaineering Books Under £10 AUTHOR TITLE PUBLISHER EDITION CONDITION DESCRIPTION REFNo PRICE AA Publishing Focus On The Peak District AA Publishing 1997 First Edition 96pp, paperback, VG Includes walk and cycle rides. 49344 £3 Abell Ed My Father's Keep. A Journey Of Ed Abell 2013 First Edition 106pp, paperback, Fine copy The book is a story of hope for 67412 £9 Forgiveness Through The Himalaya. healing of our most complicated family relationships through understanding, compassion, and forgiveness, peace for ourselves despite our inability to save our loved ones from the ravages of addiction, and strength for the arduous yet enriching journey. Abraham Guide To Keswick & The Vale Of G.P. Abraham Ltd 20 page booklet 5890 £8 George D. Derwentwater Abraham Modern Mountaineering Methuen & Co 1948 3rd Edition 198pp, large bump to head of spine, Classic text from the rock climbing 5759 £6 George D. Revised slight slant to spine, Good in Good+ pioneer, covering the Alps, North dw. Wales and The Lake District. Abt Julius Allgau Landshaft Und Menschen Bergverlag Rudolf 1938 First Edition 143pp, inscription, text in German, VG- 10397 £4 Rother in G chipped dw. Aflalo F.G. Behind The Ranges. Parentheses Of Martin Secker 1911 First Edition 284pp, 14 illusts, original green cloth, Aflalo's wide variety of travel 10382 £8 Travel. boards are slightly soiled and marked, experiences. worn spot on spine, G+. Ahluwalia Major Higher Than Everest. Memoirs of a Vikas Publishing 1973 First Edition 188pp, Fair in Fair dw. Autobiography of one of the world's 5743 £9 H.P.S. Mountaineer House most famous mountaineers. -
Sometimes the Leader Does Fall... a Look Into the Experiences of Ice Climbers Who Have Fallen on Ice Screws
SOMETIMES THE LEADER DOES FALL... A LOOK INTO THE EXPERIENCES OF ICE CLIMBERS WHO HAVE FALLEN ON ICE SCREWS Kel Rossiter Ed.D., Educational Leadership & Policy Studies--M.S., Kinesiology/Outdoor Education AMGA Certified Rock & Alpine Guide INTRODUCTION/BACKGROUND Last winter a climber with Adventure Spirit Rock+Ice+Alpine was asking me about the holding power of ice screws. We discussed the various lab studies that have been done (a list of links to some interesting ones can be found at the bottom of this paper) then he said, “That's great, but has anyone ever specifically done research into how they actually perform in the field?” He had a point. While the dictum in ice climbing is that “the leader never falls,” in the end, they sometimes do. So presumably there was an ample population from which to sample— but I was unaware of any actual field research done with this population. So, fueled by that question, I decided to explore the topic. The results of this inquiry appear below. Though I have a background in research, make no mistake: This presentation of findings should not be viewed through the same lens as academic research. Aside from running it by a few academic-climber friends there has been only an informal peer review, there are significant short-comings in the methodology (noted below), and ideas are put forth that don't necessarily build directly on prior research (largely because—as noted—there really hasn't been much research on the topic and much less field research). In addition, this write up is not done in the typical “5 Part” research format of Introduction, Methodology, Results, Analysis, and Conclusion. -
CC J Inners 168Pp.Indd
theclimbers’club Journal 2011 theclimbers’club Journal 2011 Contents ALPS AND THE HIMALAYA THE HOME FRONT Shelter from the Storm. By Dick Turnbull P.10 A Midwinter Night’s Dream. By Geoff Bennett P.90 Pensioner’s Alpine Holiday. By Colin Beechey P.16 Further Certifi cation. By Nick Hinchliffe P.96 Himalayan Extreme for Beginners. By Dave Turnbull P.23 Welsh Fix. By Sarah Clough P.100 No Blends! By Dick Isherwood P.28 One Flew Over the Bilberry Ledge. By Martin Whitaker P.105 Whatever Happened to? By Nick Bullock P.108 A Winter Day at Harrison’s. By Steve Dean P.112 PEOPLE Climbing with Brasher. By George Band P.36 FAR HORIZONS The Dragon of Carnmore. By Dave Atkinson P.42 Climbing With Strangers. By Brian Wilkinson P.48 Trekking in the Simien Mountains. By Rya Tibawi P.120 Climbing Infl uences and Characters. By James McHaffi e P.53 Spitkoppe - an Old Climber’s Dream. By Ian Howell P.128 Joe Brown at Eighty. By John Cleare P.60 Madagascar - an African Yosemite. By Pete O’Donovan P.134 Rock Climbing around St Catherine’s Monastery in the Sinai Desert. By Malcolm Phelps P.142 FIRST ASCENTS Summer Shale in Cornwall. By Mick Fowler P.68 OBITUARIES A Desert Nirvana. By Paul Ross P.74 The First Ascent of Vector. By Claude Davies P.78 George Band OBE. 1929 - 2011 P.150 Three Rescues and a Late Dinner. By Tony Moulam P.82 Alan Blackshaw OBE. 1933 - 2011 P.154 Ben Wintringham. 1947 - 2011 P.158 Chris Astill. -
Ice Climbing Anchor Strength: an In-Depth Analysis
Ice Climbing Anchor Strength: An In-Depth Analysis J. Marc Beverly, BS-EMS, M-PAS, Certified Guide Stephen W. Attaway, PhD Abstract: Ice climbing anchors are seemingly simple, yet have a mystique that surrounds their use and overall strengths. Not all ice climbing anchors are used in a standard configuration. Placing an ice screw into an already existing ice screw hole is called re-boring. Re-boring of ice screws is a common practice among ice climbers. Re-boring is typically preferred when placing a screw to avoid creating adjacent holes that could serve as a potential fracture propagation point. We evaluated re-boring strengths for several ice screw designs to determine the strength as a function of length of screw. Slow pull tests were performed, and the results were compared with prior data from drop testing on ice screws. Static pull testing using lake ice was compared with drop testing on waterfall ice and found to be a good substitute test medium. In addition, we evaluated Abalakov anchors (a.k.a. V-thread anchors), with 7mm Perlon cord as well as 1” tubular webbing in different configurations. Their strengths were then compared with that of the single re- bored ice screws. The nature of ice is a continually changing medium and hard to predict in the field. However, the actual strengths shown from our testing methods in the real-world environment make a strong case for the strength of re-boring. Recently, re-bored holes in a freezing environment were found to be strong enough in most configurations. Abalakov ice anchors were also found to be strong, provided that enough ice area was enclosed by the anchor. -
Les Clochers D'arpette
31 Les Clochers d’Arpette Portrait : large épaule rocheuse, ou tout du moins rocailleuse, de 2814 m à son point culminant. On trouve plusieurs points cotés sur la carte nationale, dont certains sont plus significatifs que d’autres. Quelqu’un a fixé une grande branche à l’avant-sommet est. Nom : en référence aux nombreux gendarmes rocheux recouvrant la montagne sur le Val d’Arpette et faisant penser à des clochers. Le nom provient surtout de deux grosses tours très lisses à 2500 m environ dans le versant sud-est (celui du Val d’Arpette). Dangers : fortes pentes, chutes de pierres et rochers à « varapper » Région : VS (massif du Mont Blanc), district d’Entremont, commune d’Orsières, Combe de Barmay et Val d’Arpette Accès : Martigny Martigny-Combe Les Valettes Champex Arpette Géologie : granites du massif cristallin externe du Mont Blanc Difficulté : il existe plusieurs itinéraires possibles, partant aussi bien d’Arpette que du versant opposé, mais il s’agit à chaque fois d’itinéraires fastidieux et demandant un pied sûr. La voie la plus courte et relativement pas compliquée consiste à remonter les pentes d’éboulis du versant sud-sud-ouest et ensuite de suivre l’arête sud-ouest exposée (cotation officielle : entre F et PD). Histoire : montagne parcourue depuis longtemps, sans doute par des chasseurs. L’arête est fut ouverte officiellement par Paul Beaumont et les guides François Fournier et Joseph Fournier le 04.09.1891. Le versant nord fut descendu à ski par Cédric Arnold et Christophe Darbellay le 13.01.1993. Spécificité : montagne sauvage, bien visible de la région de Fully et de ses environs, et donc offrant un beau panorama sur le district de Martigny, entre autres… 52 32 L’Aiguille d’Orny Portrait : aiguille rocheuse de 3150 m d’altitude, dotée d’aucun symbole, mais équipée d’un relais d’escalade. -
Riverside Cemetery
Old Section This is the original plat of the old Brook Cemetery which was platted in June of 1895, although burials here date to the 1850’s. In 1909 the cemetery was deeded to Iroquois Township to maintain. The cemetery was enlarged in 1926 and the name became Riverside Cemetery. However, this section was still referred to as the Brook Cemetery and ownership was never returned to the cemetery association. This section consists of 252 lots. All lots are numbered from north to south, and sources of additional information are cited as BR for Brook Reporter and HD for death records. Lot 1: Agate, Charles North 4 feet Grave 1: Charley J. son of C.H. and C. Agate, 1901-1907 Peterson, Charles Middle 11 feet (See Appendix 3) Grave 2: Anna Peterson, 1865-1909 Grave 3: Charles Peterson, died 1926 Light, I. South 15 feet Grave 5: Nettie Wood Light, 5/20/1875-3/8/1909 Grave 6: Israel Light, 7/6/1873-9/21/1922 Lot 2: L.M. Cory Grave 1: Mary Cory, 1874-1939 (1872-1937-HD) Grave 2: Lewis M. Cory, 1870-1956 Grave 3: Minerva Cory, 1865-1944 Grave 4: Amy Cory, 5/26/1891-9/15/1918 Grave 5: Arnold G. Cory, 3/2/1893-12/21/1909 Grave 6: George Oscar Brown, 12/10/1884-10/24/1908 23y 10m 14d Lot 3: Light, Byrd Grave 1: Alta Bisig Taylor 5/30/1895-1/18/1991 Grave 2: Oscar Bisig 10/9/1895-5/28/1946 (IN Pvt. 1st class Med Dept.) Grave 3: Loren Light 1907-1959 (funeral home marker only) Grave 4: Martha Light 1860-1944 Grave 5: Byrd Light 1860-1942 Grave 6: Ida Ethel Light, 8/26/1888-3/4/1908 Lot 4: Wilmington, E.E. -
SA Winter Mountaineering Essentials List
Winter Mountaineering Essentials List Timothy Larsen 2021/06 Apparel: SHELL: ● A sturdy pair of gaiters -BLACK DIAMOND FRONTPOINT GAITER ● Breathable waterproof shell - STORMLINE STRETCH RAIN SHELL or HIGHLINE STRETCH SHELL ● Waterproof pants - STORMLINE STRETCH FULL ZIP RAIN PANTS ● Warm shell gloves GLISSADE GLOVES to Very warm mitts MERCURY MITTS depending on the expected environment MID-LAYERS: ● High quality down jacket - APPROACH DOWN HOODY ● Mid-layer Jacket - FACTOR HOODY ● Warm hiking pants - ALPINE PANTS BASE LAYER: ● 2x Base Layer shirts - LS RHYTHM TEE ● 2x Baselayer pants - SOLUTION 150 MERINO BASE BOTTOM ● Synthetic balaclava - DOME BALACLAVA ● Base layer gloves to be worn under your main gloves to allow you to do “fingery” tasks that require that you remove the main glove MIDWEIGHT SCREENTAP FLEECE GLOVES ● Synthetic beanie - BLACK DIAMOND BRAND BEANIE ● Wool and Synthetic Socks Footwear: B1: Boreal Zanskar, Zamberlan Vioz Plus and the Scarpa Marmaloda Pro. B2: Boreal Brenta and Scarpa Ribelle Winter camping: There are three essentials: FOUR SEASON TENT Vango Mirage Pro A PROPER SLEEPING BAG JR GEAR HELIUM DOWN - 550g to 1050g. AN INSULATED MAT E3 GEAR INSULATOR MAT -10MM. JR GEAR PRESIDON. JR GEAR DRY BAG PUMP. Other Equipment: ● Hiking Pack 75-100L Black Diamond Mission 75L ● Trekking Poles* Any of the Black Diamond Flick Lock poles will serve you well – but the Pro Series (with Stainless Steel flick lock) will be the most reliable Black Diamond Alpine Cork Poles ● Headlamp - Black Diamond Storm 400, REVOLT 350 or ICON -
The Modernisation of Elite British Mountaineering
The Modernisation of Elite British Mountaineering: Entrepreneurship, Commercialisation and the Career Climber, 1953-2000 Thomas P. Barcham Thesis submitted in partial fulfilment of the requirements of De Montfort University for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy Submission date: March 2018 Contents Abstract ................................................................................................................................................... 4 Acknowledgments ................................................................................................................................... 5 Table of Abbreviations and Acronyms .................................................................................................... 6 Table of Figures ....................................................................................................................................... 7 Chapter 1. Introduction .......................................................................................................................... 8 Literature Review ............................................................................................................................ 14 Definitions, Methodology and Structure ........................................................................................ 29 Chapter 2. 1953 to 1969 - Breaking a New Trail: The Early Search for Earnings in a Fast Changing Pursuit .................................................................................................................................................. -
Mont Blanc in British Literary Culture 1786 – 1826
Mont Blanc in British Literary Culture 1786 – 1826 Carl Alexander McKeating Submitted in accordance with the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy University of Leeds School of English May 2020 The candidate confirms that the work submitted is his own and that appropriate credit has been given where reference has been made to the work of others. This copy has been supplied on the understanding that it is copyright material and that no quotation from the thesis may be published without proper acknowledgement. The right of Carl Alexander McKeating to be identified as Author of this work has been asserted by Carl Alexander McKeating in accordance with the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988. Acknowledgements I am grateful to Frank Parkinson, without whose scholarship in support of Yorkshire-born students I could not have undertaken this study. The Frank Parkinson Scholarship stipulates that parents of the scholar must also be Yorkshire-born. I cannot help thinking that what Parkinson had in mind was the type of social mobility embodied by the journey from my Bradford-born mother, Marie McKeating, who ‘passed the Eleven-Plus’ but was denied entry into a grammar school because she was ‘from a children’s home and likely a trouble- maker’, to her second child in whom she instilled a love of books, debate and analysis. The existence of this thesis is testament to both my mother’s and Frank Parkinson’s generosity and vision. Thank you to David Higgins and Jeremy Davies for their guidance and support. I give considerable thanks to Fiona Beckett and John Whale for their encouragement and expert interventions.