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In Memoriam I Met Ralph in 1989 When I Moved to Wolverhampton, Through Our Involvement with the Wolverhampton Mountain- Eering Club
Obituaries Matterhorn. Edward Theodore Compton. 1880. Watercolour. 43 x 68cm. (Alpine Club Collection HE118P) 399 I N M E M ORI am 401 Ralph Atkinson 1952 - 2014 In Memoriam I met Ralph in 1989 when I moved to Wolverhampton, through our involvement with the Wolverhampton Mountain- eering Club. Weekends in Wales The Alpine Club Obituary Year of Election and day trips to Matlock and the (including to ACG) Roaches became the foundation for extended expeditions to the Ralph Atkinson 1997 Alps including, in 1991, a fine Una Bishop 1982 six-day ski traverse of the Haute John Chadwick 1978 Route, Argentière to Zermatt, John Clegg 1955 and ascents in 1993 of the Mönch Dennis Davis 1977 and Jungfrau. Descending the Gordon Gadsby 1985 Jungfrau in a storm, we could Johannes Villiers de Graaff 1953 barely see each other. I slipped David Jamieson 1999 in the new snow and had to self- Emlyn Jones 1944 arrest, aided by the tension in the Brian ‘Ned’ Kelly 1968 rope to Ralph. It worked, and I Neil Mackenzie Asp.2011, 2015 Ralph Atkinson climbing on the slabs of Fournel, was soon back on the ridge, but Richard Morgan 1960 near Argentière, Ecrins. (Andy Clarke) when we dropped below the John Peacock 1966 Rottalsattel and could speak to Bill Putnam 1972 each other again, he had no idea that anything untoward had happened. Stephanie Roberts 2011 I recall long journeys by car enlivened by his wide-ranging taste in music. Les Swindin 1979 The keynote of many outings was his sense of fun. There were long stories, John Tyson 1952 jokes or pithy one-liners. -
Layout 1 Copy
STACK ROCK 2020 An illustrated guide to sea stack climbing in the UK & Ireland - Old Harry - - Old Man of Stoer - - Am Buachaille - - The Maiden - - The Old Man of Hoy - - over 200 more - Edition I - version 1 - 13th March 1994. Web Edition - version 1 - December 1996. Web Edition - version 2 - January 1998. Edition 2 - version 3 - January 2002. Edition 3 - version 1 - May 2019. Edition 4 - version 1 - January 2020. Compiler Chris Mellor, 4 Barnfield Avenue, Shirley, Croydon, Surrey, CR0 8SE. Tel: 0208 662 1176 – E-mail: [email protected]. Send in amendments, corrections and queries by e-mail. ISBN - 1-899098-05-4 Acknowledgements Denis Crampton for enduring several discussions in which the concept of this book was developed. Also Duncan Hornby for information on Dorset’s Old Harry stacks and Mick Fowler for much help with some of his southern and northern stack attacks. Mike Vetterlein contributed indirectly as have Rick Cummins of Rock Addiction, Rab Anderson and Bruce Kerr. Andy Long from Lerwick, Shetland. has contributed directly with a lot of the hard information about Shetland. Thanks are also due to Margaret of the Alpine Club library for assistance in looking up old journals. In late 1996 Ben Linton, Ed Lynch-Bell and Ian Brodrick undertook the mammoth scanning and OCR exercise needed to transfer the paper text back into computer form after the original electronic version was lost in a disk crash. This was done in order to create a world-wide web version of the guide. Mike Caine of the Manx Fell and Rock Club then helped with route information from his Manx climbing web site. -
Mountaineering Books Under £10
Mountaineering Books Under £10 AUTHOR TITLE PUBLISHER EDITION CONDITION DESCRIPTION REFNo PRICE AA Publishing Focus On The Peak District AA Publishing 1997 First Edition 96pp, paperback, VG Includes walk and cycle rides. 49344 £3 Abell Ed My Father's Keep. A Journey Of Ed Abell 2013 First Edition 106pp, paperback, Fine copy The book is a story of hope for 67412 £9 Forgiveness Through The Himalaya. healing of our most complicated family relationships through understanding, compassion, and forgiveness, peace for ourselves despite our inability to save our loved ones from the ravages of addiction, and strength for the arduous yet enriching journey. Abraham Guide To Keswick & The Vale Of G.P. Abraham Ltd 20 page booklet 5890 £8 George D. Derwentwater Abraham Modern Mountaineering Methuen & Co 1948 3rd Edition 198pp, large bump to head of spine, Classic text from the rock climbing 5759 £6 George D. Revised slight slant to spine, Good in Good+ pioneer, covering the Alps, North dw. Wales and The Lake District. Abt Julius Allgau Landshaft Und Menschen Bergverlag Rudolf 1938 First Edition 143pp, inscription, text in German, VG- 10397 £4 Rother in G chipped dw. Aflalo F.G. Behind The Ranges. Parentheses Of Martin Secker 1911 First Edition 284pp, 14 illusts, original green cloth, Aflalo's wide variety of travel 10382 £8 Travel. boards are slightly soiled and marked, experiences. worn spot on spine, G+. Ahluwalia Major Higher Than Everest. Memoirs of a Vikas Publishing 1973 First Edition 188pp, Fair in Fair dw. Autobiography of one of the world's 5743 £9 H.P.S. Mountaineer House most famous mountaineers. -
CC J Inners 168Pp.Indd
theclimbers’club Journal 2011 theclimbers’club Journal 2011 Contents ALPS AND THE HIMALAYA THE HOME FRONT Shelter from the Storm. By Dick Turnbull P.10 A Midwinter Night’s Dream. By Geoff Bennett P.90 Pensioner’s Alpine Holiday. By Colin Beechey P.16 Further Certifi cation. By Nick Hinchliffe P.96 Himalayan Extreme for Beginners. By Dave Turnbull P.23 Welsh Fix. By Sarah Clough P.100 No Blends! By Dick Isherwood P.28 One Flew Over the Bilberry Ledge. By Martin Whitaker P.105 Whatever Happened to? By Nick Bullock P.108 A Winter Day at Harrison’s. By Steve Dean P.112 PEOPLE Climbing with Brasher. By George Band P.36 FAR HORIZONS The Dragon of Carnmore. By Dave Atkinson P.42 Climbing With Strangers. By Brian Wilkinson P.48 Trekking in the Simien Mountains. By Rya Tibawi P.120 Climbing Infl uences and Characters. By James McHaffi e P.53 Spitkoppe - an Old Climber’s Dream. By Ian Howell P.128 Joe Brown at Eighty. By John Cleare P.60 Madagascar - an African Yosemite. By Pete O’Donovan P.134 Rock Climbing around St Catherine’s Monastery in the Sinai Desert. By Malcolm Phelps P.142 FIRST ASCENTS Summer Shale in Cornwall. By Mick Fowler P.68 OBITUARIES A Desert Nirvana. By Paul Ross P.74 The First Ascent of Vector. By Claude Davies P.78 George Band OBE. 1929 - 2011 P.150 Three Rescues and a Late Dinner. By Tony Moulam P.82 Alan Blackshaw OBE. 1933 - 2011 P.154 Ben Wintringham. 1947 - 2011 P.158 Chris Astill. -
Winter Newsletter 2010
JMCS JMCS Winter Newsletter 2010 Next Page Click on the articles below to view or use the buttons on the navigation bar at the bottom of the page Secretary’s Introduction Climbing on Smith Rock, by Susan Jensen Ice Climbing in Norway, by Roy Harrison Spring in New Zealand, by Dave Coustick A Short Walk in the Khumbu, by Ruairidh Finlayson A visit to Verdon, by Bryan Rynne The Inaccessible Pinnacle of France, by Stuart Murdoch Mont Blanc, by Ruth Love Climbing on Mingulay, by Patrick Winter Designed by Sarah Wright 2010 Back Page Next Page Secretary’s Introduction In the past, written accounts by Edinburgh JMCS members of their own recent activities (as distinct from reports of formal Meets) have been printed off and sent round with the invitations to attend the AGM and dinner. This year I received too many articles to make printing an economic proposition, especially if the photos accompanying the articles were to appear in colour. So this year we have decided to ‘publish’ the articles on the Club website rather than in print. This will save money, preserve the rain forest and show off the photos to proper effect. When I invited contributions, I expected that much of what came back would relate to the Scottish mega-winter of 2009/10. But in fact, during the whole of that remarkable season, no-one in the Club seems to have done anything that they felt was worth writing about. It would also seem that it is leaving the UK, in particular, that unlocks the well-springs of literary inspiration for JMCS Members, for all but one of the contributions which I received proved to be about climbing or walking abroad. -
Les Clochers D'arpette
31 Les Clochers d’Arpette Portrait : large épaule rocheuse, ou tout du moins rocailleuse, de 2814 m à son point culminant. On trouve plusieurs points cotés sur la carte nationale, dont certains sont plus significatifs que d’autres. Quelqu’un a fixé une grande branche à l’avant-sommet est. Nom : en référence aux nombreux gendarmes rocheux recouvrant la montagne sur le Val d’Arpette et faisant penser à des clochers. Le nom provient surtout de deux grosses tours très lisses à 2500 m environ dans le versant sud-est (celui du Val d’Arpette). Dangers : fortes pentes, chutes de pierres et rochers à « varapper » Région : VS (massif du Mont Blanc), district d’Entremont, commune d’Orsières, Combe de Barmay et Val d’Arpette Accès : Martigny Martigny-Combe Les Valettes Champex Arpette Géologie : granites du massif cristallin externe du Mont Blanc Difficulté : il existe plusieurs itinéraires possibles, partant aussi bien d’Arpette que du versant opposé, mais il s’agit à chaque fois d’itinéraires fastidieux et demandant un pied sûr. La voie la plus courte et relativement pas compliquée consiste à remonter les pentes d’éboulis du versant sud-sud-ouest et ensuite de suivre l’arête sud-ouest exposée (cotation officielle : entre F et PD). Histoire : montagne parcourue depuis longtemps, sans doute par des chasseurs. L’arête est fut ouverte officiellement par Paul Beaumont et les guides François Fournier et Joseph Fournier le 04.09.1891. Le versant nord fut descendu à ski par Cédric Arnold et Christophe Darbellay le 13.01.1993. Spécificité : montagne sauvage, bien visible de la région de Fully et de ses environs, et donc offrant un beau panorama sur le district de Martigny, entre autres… 52 32 L’Aiguille d’Orny Portrait : aiguille rocheuse de 3150 m d’altitude, dotée d’aucun symbole, mais équipée d’un relais d’escalade. -
The Modernisation of Elite British Mountaineering
The Modernisation of Elite British Mountaineering: Entrepreneurship, Commercialisation and the Career Climber, 1953-2000 Thomas P. Barcham Thesis submitted in partial fulfilment of the requirements of De Montfort University for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy Submission date: March 2018 Contents Abstract ................................................................................................................................................... 4 Acknowledgments ................................................................................................................................... 5 Table of Abbreviations and Acronyms .................................................................................................... 6 Table of Figures ....................................................................................................................................... 7 Chapter 1. Introduction .......................................................................................................................... 8 Literature Review ............................................................................................................................ 14 Definitions, Methodology and Structure ........................................................................................ 29 Chapter 2. 1953 to 1969 - Breaking a New Trail: The Early Search for Earnings in a Fast Changing Pursuit .................................................................................................................................................. -
Mont Blanc in British Literary Culture 1786 – 1826
Mont Blanc in British Literary Culture 1786 – 1826 Carl Alexander McKeating Submitted in accordance with the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy University of Leeds School of English May 2020 The candidate confirms that the work submitted is his own and that appropriate credit has been given where reference has been made to the work of others. This copy has been supplied on the understanding that it is copyright material and that no quotation from the thesis may be published without proper acknowledgement. The right of Carl Alexander McKeating to be identified as Author of this work has been asserted by Carl Alexander McKeating in accordance with the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988. Acknowledgements I am grateful to Frank Parkinson, without whose scholarship in support of Yorkshire-born students I could not have undertaken this study. The Frank Parkinson Scholarship stipulates that parents of the scholar must also be Yorkshire-born. I cannot help thinking that what Parkinson had in mind was the type of social mobility embodied by the journey from my Bradford-born mother, Marie McKeating, who ‘passed the Eleven-Plus’ but was denied entry into a grammar school because she was ‘from a children’s home and likely a trouble- maker’, to her second child in whom she instilled a love of books, debate and analysis. The existence of this thesis is testament to both my mother’s and Frank Parkinson’s generosity and vision. Thank you to David Higgins and Jeremy Davies for their guidance and support. I give considerable thanks to Fiona Beckett and John Whale for their encouragement and expert interventions. -
The Rise and Fall of the Working Class Climber
DENNIS GRAY The Rise and Fall of the Working Class Climber The working class, come kiss my ass I've joined the Alpine Club at last! (To the tune of 'the Red Flag') henever I pick up a copy of the Alpine Journal I always turn first to W the obituary section. I did this recently with some journals from the late 1940s, which is when I started to"climb. One that caught my eye was of a celebrated Knight of the Realm. 'He was a damned good shot, and a first class angler,' declared the obituarist. Another noted that a deceased Baronet, 'kept a fine cellar and was always a generous host to visitors at his estate in Scotland'. The impression given from these AJs was of an elite, upper-class organisation; a silver spoon group who actually had not done a lot of hard core climbing but really cut the mustard in government, professional and social circles. I have said before that when I was a young climber, my mainly working-class companions and I looked on the Alpine Club with a jaundiced eye. This was understandable given the advice we received from an old and respected member approached on how to go about the business of becoming an alpinist. When Alfie Beanland reported back on this at our weekly gathering of the Bradford Lads at Tommy's cafe one Sunday night in Otley we fell about laughing. The sagacious advice was: 1. Make your travel arrangements through Thomas Cook. 2. Keep your ice axe firmly in front of you. -
Catalogue 46: July 2012
Top of the World Books Catalogue 46: July 2012 Mountaineering Everest Expedition 2007. The team initially planned to attempt Everest from the north but permission was refused on account of Bém’s Buddhist beliefs and Alpinist Magazine #38. Spring 2012. #26026, $14.95 prior meetings with the Dalai Lama. They then received permission for the Álvarez, Miguel Ángel Pérez. Dos Escaladas al Everest: Crónica de las south side and Bém, at the time the mayor of Prague, achieved the summit along Expediciones de Castilla y León (1999 – 2001). 2004 Junta de Castilla y with two Sherpa members. This magnificent book not only covers their climb Leon, Consejeria Cultura y Turismo, 1st, 8vo, pp.217, 83 color photos, wraps; but also features numerous photos of Nepal, Tibet, Bhutan, and India. This also light rubbing, else new. #24430, $49.- includes a nicely produced, 28-min DVD ‘Window in the Sky’ covering the The accounts of two Spanish expedition to Everest, both via the South Col route. climb. Portions of the video, near the end, are in English. (This may not work The 1999 expedition reached 7500m on the Lhotse Face before deep snow and in NTSC players but does play with VLC Media Player on a PC.) In Czech, no avalanches forced a halt. The return expedition in 2001 succeeded in placing English translation. This set weighs 5.5 pounds. three members on the summit. In Spanish, no English translation. Benavides, Angela. ¡Cumbre! Los 14 Ochomiles de Edurne Pasabán Barker, Ralph. The Last Blue Mountain. 1959 Chatto & Windus, London, [Summit! The 14 Eight-Thousanders of Edurne Pasaban]. -
Climbers' Guidebooks 551
2 INDEX GENERAL BOOKS: 1- 530 FICTION: 531 - 542 CAVING: 543 - 547 SKIING: 548 - 550 GUIDEBOOKS (ENGLISH LANGUAGE): 551 - 823 GUIDEBOOKS (FOREIGN LANGUAGE): 824 - 855 WALKING/TREKKING GUIDES: 856 - 866 FOREIGN LANGUAGE BOOKS: 867 - 877 JOURNALS 878 - 947 MAGAZINES: 948 - 964 PHOTOGRAPHS: 965 - 967 1. Abraham, A.P: BEAUTIFUL LAKELAND: Abraham, Keswick; 1920: (2nd) edition. Hardback, 52 pages, 32 monogravure plates (including one on front cover) by G.P Abraham of Keswick, 28.5cm. Head of spine lightly bumped with a 1cm joint split reglued (darkened) at head and base, corner tips also reglued; foxing and browning mainly confined to outer page-edges and endpapers, overall a VG presentable copy. General commentary on the Lake District; enhanced with fine Abraham photographs of the period: £10.00 2. Abraham, G.D: BRITISH MOUNTAIN CLIMBS: Mills & Boon; 1937: 4th edition. Pages xvi + 448, 18 plates, 21 outline drawings, 17.5cm. Complete, but pages 49-64 bound out of sequence. Previous owner’s bookplate inside front board; faint water stain lower corner of frontispiece and a slight touch of wrinkling in vicinity; surface glaze dull (8x8cm) on lower rear corner of rear board; slight foxing top outer edge of pages; but otherwise a Near Fine very clean copy in (dust wrapper condition - spine age- darkened, slightly rubbed and tiny loss at base) d/w now protected in a loose plastic sleeve. Primarily a guidebook but also useful for the history of early British climbing: £25.00 3. Abraham, G.D: BRITISH MOUNTAIN CLIMBS: Mills & Boon; 1945 5th edition: Pages xvi + 448, 18 plates, 21outline drawings, 18cm. -
Joe Brown Biography
JOE BROWN BIOGRAPHY Full version Updated 15 February 2006 Note: Gradings given here are current ones. At the time of some of the first ascents V.S. (very severe) was the highest grading used. Routes were rarely inspected or cleaned beforehand, but pegs were placed more readily than today both for protection and aid. Joe developed a self-imposed limit of 2 pegs on a pitch preferring to leave harder routes for later generations. Joe Brown, the youngest of seven children, was born on 26th September 1930, the son of Joseph and Mary Brown (nee Atwell). Life began in Ardwick, a working class area of Manchester. His father was a jobbing builder but with work scare during the depression of the early thirties, he made ends meet with periods spent at sea. When Joe was only 8 months old his father suffered a shipboard accident sustaining an injury which became gangrenous and led to his death. With a large family and only his eldest brother bringing home a wage the family’s financial position was dire. At first his mother took in washing, then once he was old enough to be left in the care of elder brothers and sisters, she went out to work as a cleaner. By the start of the Second World War the family had moved from their two-up, two-down terrace to a larger house in Chorlton-cum- Medlock an area that suffered badly in the Blitz of 1940. Not only was their house severely damaged, but first one then another of the schools Joe attended was destroyed.