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ISBN 9781873341 575 rockfax.com © ROCKFAX 2016 Published by ROCKFAX inSeptember 2016 openstreetmap.org sourceSome mapsbasedonoriginal data from All mapsby ROCKFAX Distributed by Cordee (cordee.co.uk) (ISO 14001 andEMAS printers) certified Printed inEurope onbehalfofLFBookServices Technical Editor Stephen Horne Edited by Alan James Action photography ascredited Crag photography by BoscoeandJack Charlie Geldard Additional text andtopos by Jack Geldard Text andtopos by Boscoe Charlie - This page: Two climbersontheserac ofTheRochefort Ridge(AD) - Cover: SteveWakeford ontheArêtedesCosmiques (AD) copyright owner. A CIPcatalogue record isavailable from Library. theBritish mechanical, photocopying written orotherwise without prior ofthe permission a retrieval system, ortransmitted inany form orby any means, electronic, reserved.All rights ofthispublication may Nopart bereproduced, stored in page 247.Photo:Jon Griffith page 220-ontheAiguilleduMidi. Photo:BenTibbetts from sustainable forestry made from 100% virgin fibre sourced paper This bookisprinted onFSCcertified A guideto thebestrock climbs and routes around Chamonix andMontBlanc Charlie Boscoe with Jack Geldard 1

Valley Cragging Aiguilles Rouges Tré la Tête Helbronner Plan de l'Aiguille Envers des Aiguilles d'Argentière Glacier du Tour Verte, Chamonix.Photo: BenTibbetts (bentibbettsphotography.com) Gabriel Mazur ontheGrandsMontets Ridge(D+)- Mont Blancdu Tacul Helbronner . Aiguille duMidi Plan del'Aiguille Enversdes Aiguilles Grandes Jorasses . de TalèfreGlacier . Glacier d'Argentière du Tour Glacier Chamonix . Crag andGeneral Index Mountain Route Index and Tick List Route Index Chamonix Valley Climbing Sport Aiguilles Rouges -Index . Aiguilles Rouges -Brévent . Tréla Tête . Mont Blanc. Chamonix Logistics Introduction Destination Planner Alpine Dangers . Les Chéserys La Joux . . Alpine Skills Symbol, Mapand Topo Key Route Descriptions Grades Gear . Guiding Services Barberine Les Mottets Les Gaillands . Chamonix Valley . Other Activities Shops and Tourist Information Refuges andBivouac Shelters Where to Stay . Getting Around Getting There When to Go Where isChamonix?- Area Map Emergencies andRescue . Acknowledgements Other GuidebooksandMaps. Rockfax . RockfaxThe App ...... 422 238 456 455 446 436 432 396 390 388 384 362 338 326 298 264 178 214 148 134 414 412 114 56 54 50 46 45 44 42 40 38 36 34 32 30 28 26 24 22 20 16 76 18 14 12 10 8 4 page 108-Aiguille Contents Chamonix 3

Valley Cragging Aiguilles Rouges Tré la Tête Mont Blanc Mont Blanc du Tacul Helbronner Plan de l'Aiguille Envers des Aiguilles Grandes Jorasses Glacier de Talèfre Glacier d'Argentière Glacier du Tour 4 Chamonix Introduction Introduction Chamonix 5

Glacier du Tour Glacier Jonathan Crabtree scrambling onto Pointe Selle, the lower of the Dent du Géant, after climbing the Lying at the heart of the , and home to Southwest Face (AD+) - page 245. In the background is Mont Blanc and the Brenva Face with Kuffner Ridge in front of it leading up to . The rocky spurs and pinnacles of Mont Blanc du Tacul are visible their highest peak, Chamonix was always on the right as is the huge unstable serac at the top of the Gervasutti Couloir. Photo: Peter Riley going to be a major alpine centre. It is also the place where was 'invented' Glacier du Tour Glacier d'ArgentièreGlacier featuring some of the steepest and most spectacular in the world, all made accessible by an incredible lift system, and

making Chamonix mountaineering's Mecca. Glacier d'Argentière Glacier de Talèfre Glacier Just about every legendary alpinist in history has spent time climbing amongst the stunning

peaks of the Mont Blanc ; Bonatti, Glacier de Talèfre

Grandes Jorasses Cassin, Rébuffat, Terray, Whymper, Messner, Bonington, Lafaille and Steck have all left their mark on the range. Even today it remains

the place that anyone serious about alpine Jorasses Grandes

Envers des Aiguilles climbing needs to visit to test themselves against climbing's most legendary mountains.

Unusually for an alpine , the rock Envers des Aiguilles Envers

Plan de l'Aiguille quality is mainly excellent across the range (although rockfall remains a major danger is the summer months) so in addition to the

and ice adventures common to glaciated Plan de l'Aiguille mountaineering, the also Aiguille du Midi provides many stunning rock climbs. Furthermore, there are a number of superb

crags in the Chamonix Valley, du Midi Aiguille meaning that this book contains routes of

Helbronner almost every type, from short bolted climbs to the huge 1000m mixed routes and the

legendary north faces of the Alps. Helbronner Mont du Blanc Tacul In 1786 Mont Blanc was climbed by and Michel Paccard in return for a financial reward from Genevan scientist

Horace-Bénédict de Saussure (who was Tacul Blanc du Mont

Mont Blanc fascinated by the peak). Nearly 250 years on, Chamonix and Mont Blanc continue to

attract those who feel drawn to high and wild Blanc Mont places. The unique mix of high, beautiful and solid mountains, combined with extraordinary Tréla Tête access to them, means that this range remains

the best alpine climbing destination on earth. la Tête Tré Aiguilles Rouges Aiguilles Rouges Aiguilles Valley Cragging Valley Cragging Valley 6 Chamonix Introduction Introduction Chamonix 7

Glacier du Tour Glacier Trevor Duggan ahead of an unknown climber on a busy day on Southeast Ridge (AD) Route Inclusion Policy - page 252 - on the . Photo: Ben Tibbetts (bentibbettsphotography.com) Deciding which routes to include and which to leave out is one of the toughest parts of writing any selective guidebook. Never is this more true than in Chamonix, where the comprehensive mixed and ice climbs guidebook contains over 1200 Glacier du Tour Glacier d'ArgentièreGlacier routes (spread over two volumes). The Aiguilles Rouges (Brévent, Planpraz and Index), Envers des Aiguilles and the valley crags all have their own comprehensive guidebooks, and that still leaves all the sporadically documented granite rock climbs

in the massif to consider. Glacier d'Argentière Glacier de Talèfre Glacier Our belief has been that describing routes that are (relatively) safe, despite the changing climate and glacial retreat, matters more than covering former classics which no longer see the traffic they used to, be that because of changing conditions Glacier de Talèfre or tastes. We have focused on routes which are regularly climbed. This is not to say Grandes Jorasses that every route will be busy (in fact solitude will be virtually guaranteed on some of the routes) but, if a route is in this book, you can assume that it is still climbed at some stage most years. However, proper research into conditions and weather is still vital; even popular and well-travelled routes are the scenes of plenty of epics for Jorasses Grandes Envers des Aiguilles unprepared teams.

Our aim was to create a book that would give maximum benefit to the majority of alpinists. We are confident that nearly all of classic routes in the valley have made Envers des Aiguilles Envers

Plan de l'Aiguille it into the final book, along with some lesser-known but still deserving routes and even the odd hidden gem. The quality, not to mention the quantity, of routes above Chamonix is staggering and this is reflected in the diversity of the climbs we've described. Plan de l'Aiguille

Aiguille du Midi The focus of this book is mainly on popular routes rather than hard ones but higher- climbers should still find plenty to go at and ticking every TD+ or ED in here would be a huge project. We have focused on routes easily accessible from the Chamonix Valley itself. This means that even without transport you will still be du Midi Aiguille able to consider the vast majority of routes in this book. There are still some wild Helbronner and remote areas described (the Tré la Tête basin and the Italian side of the massif spring to mind here) but most of the climbs we’ve described begin from Chamonix itself. Helbronner Mont du Blanc Tacul Most climbers who go to Chamonix don't just want to do high altitude snow ridges, or mountain granite rock routes, or just climb in one small area. They want to be able to choose from all types of climbing over the whole area and have a book that

gives them everything they need to find and choose the best routes - this is that Tacul Blanc du Mont

Mont Blanc book.

Route Names Blanc Mont Many of the routes have different names in French, Italian, German and English. We have mostly gone with names used in the Alpine Club , or French names. Tréla Tête These have been synchronised with the logbook section of UKClimbing.com. Tré la Tête Tré Aiguilles Rouges

Guidebook Footnote The inclusion of a climbing area in this guidebook does not mean that you have a right of access or the right to climb upon it. The descriptions of routes within this are recorded for historical reasons only and no reliance should be placed on Rouges Aiguilles

Valley Cragging the accuracy of the description. The grades set in this guide are a fair assessment of the difficulty of the climbs. Climbers who attempt a route of a particular standard should use their own judgment as to whether they are proficient enough to tackle that route. This book is not a substitute for experience and proper judgment. The authors, publisher and distributors of this book do not recognise any liability for injury or damage caused to, or by, climbers, third parties, or property arising from such persons seeking reliance on this guidebook as an assurance for their own safety. Cragging Valley 8 Chamonix The Rockfax App

Glacier du Tour Glacier This Chamonix guidebook is also available on the Rockfax App which brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC Logbooks and presents it in a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version available from late 2016). Glacier d'ArgentièreGlacier

The heart of the app is the Rockfax crag and route information which is downloaded by way of paid in-app purchases for individual crags, or bundles of crags, in 'Areas' which correspond roughly to printed Glacier de Talèfre Glacier guidebooks. You can purchase each crag or area individually, or the whole book. The main data on the app is downloaded and stored on your device so you don't need any signal to be able to read the descriptions and see the topos and maps. There is a free sample crag for each area and some of these are quite extensive, enabling you to get a really Grandes Jorasses good impression of what the app is like without shelling out

Envers des Aiguilles any money.

The Rockfax App itself is a free

Plan de l'Aiguille download and incredibly useful in its own right. It contains a detailed

Aiguille du Midi crag map linked to the UKClimbing crags database (currently with basic information Helbronner and routes lists for around 20,000 crags worldwide). The map also displays all the 4,000+ listings from the UKClimbing Directory Mont du Blanc Tacul of climbing walls, outdoor shops, climbing clubs, outdoor-specific accommodation and instructors and guides amongst others.

To find the app, search for 'Rockfax app' in Google or on the appropriate app store. Mont Blanc UKC Logbooks An incredibly popular method of logging your climbing is to use the UKClimbing.com logbooks system. This database lists more than 368,000 routes, over 20,100 crags and,

Tréla Tête so far, more than 29,900 users have recorded over 4.6 million ascents! To set up your own logbook all you need to do is register at UKClimbing.com and click on the logbook tab. Once set up you will be able to record every ascent you make, when you did it, what style

Aiguilles Rouges you climbed it in and who you did it with. Each entry has a place for your own notes. You can also add your vote to the grade/star system linked to a database on the Rockfax site used by the guidebook writers. The logbook can be private, public or restricted to your own climbing partners only.

Valley Cragging The Rockfax App can be linked to your UKClimbing.com user account and logbook so that you can record your activity while at the crag and look at photos, comments and votes on the routes. To do this you will need a 3G/4G data connection. You can also look at the UKC logbooks to see if anyone has climbed your chosen route recently to check on conditions. 10 Chamonix Rockfax

Glacier du Tour Glacier Rockfax publishes guidebooks to areas all over . All the books are available Lofoten from specialist outdoor retailers or direct from rockfax.com Glacier d'ArgentièreGlacier

If you are struggling to get good weather

in Chamonix, or just fancy a break from Norway stressful big mountain challenges, then Rjukan Glacier de Talèfre Glacier have a look at the Haute Provence 18 UK Guidebooks guidebook, or Côte d'Azur where the weather is almost certainly better. Also of interest is the superb Dolomites guidebook Grandes Jorasses which covers this amazing area in northeast including the sport routes, big mountain routes and via ferrata. Chamonix

Envers des Aiguilles The Dolomites The majority of Rockfax books are also Haute Provence Ariège available in app form including a few new Italy app-only guides to places like Kalymnos Kalymnos Catalunya Plan de l'Aiguille and Catalunya. Côte d'Azur Greece Costa Blanca App and book versions available Languedoc-Roussillon Only available on the app El Chorro Mallorca Aiguille du Midi Helbronner Mont du Blanc Tacul 2016 2014 2012 2011 2010 2009 Mont Blanc Grands Montets East Ridge - page 110 Bruno Longo Photo: Tréla Tête

2016 2016 2013 2008 2016 2005 Aiguilles Rouges Valley Cragging

2016 2015 2015 2013 2012 2010 12 Chamonix Other Guidebooks and Maps Other Guidebooks and Maps Chamonix 13

Glacier du Tour Glacier Maps Other Guidebooks Available in 2016 The maps included in this book should contain enough detail to navigate to and from the peaks and routes described. However, they are designed for locating faces and mountains rather than This is the first guidebook to combine coverage of all Glacier du Tour micro-navigation and a 1:25000 topographical map is still essential, as is the ability to use it. Chamonix's various types of climbing, from high altitude Glacier d'ArgentièreGlacier The easiest maps to find are the French IGN rock and mixed climbs, mountaineering routes and the maps. Map numbers 3630 OT, Chamonix, Aiguilles Rouges to the highlights of the valley cragging. Massif du Mont Blanc and 3531 ET,

St-Gervais-Les Bains are available in There are many other guides that cover either specific Glacier d'Argentière Glacier de Talèfre Glacier virtually every climbing shop in Chamonix areas, or climbing disciplines, of Chamonix; here is a and all the routes in this book are covered selection. over these two maps. Kompass also produce a 1:50000 map that covers much of the Mont Blanc classic & plaisir (2015) by Marco Romelli Glacier de Talèfre Grandes Jorasses Massif (Kompass map number 85, Mont 80 classic Mont Blanc rock, ice and mixed routes. Blanc, Monte Bianco) as do Swisstopo (map number 5003, Mont Blanc ). Crag Climbs in Chamonix (2015) by François Burnier and Dominique Potard Jorasses Grandes Envers des Aiguilles A guidebook covering 30 sport climbing areas and four bouldering areas in the Chamonix Valley.

Selected Climbs: Mont Blanc des Aiguilles Envers

Plan de l'Aiguille & The Aiguilles Rouges (2015) by Jean-Louis Laroche and Florence LeLong Rock climbs in the Mont Blanc range and the Aiguilles

Rouges. Plan de l'Aiguille Aiguille du Midi Mountaineering in the Mont Blanc Range (2014) by Jean-Louis Laroche and Florence LeLong

Highlights of Chamonix's lower-grade snow, ice and mixed du Midi Aiguille climbs. Helbronner Mont Blanc: The Finest Routes (2013) by Philippe Batoux A coffee table book showcasing the 100 finest routes in the Helbronner

Mont du Blanc Tacul Mont Blanc Massif.

The 4000m Peaks of the Alps (2012) by Martin Moran Over 230 routes on the Alps' 4000m peaks. Mont Blanc du Tacul Blanc du Mont

Mont Blanc Mont Blanc Supercracks (2012) by Lamberto Camurri and Giovanni Bassanini

A guide to Chamonix's best granite crack climbs. Blanc Mont

Tréla Tête The Aiguilles Rouges 1 (2008) by Michel Piola A comprehensive guide to the Brévent, Planpraz, Index and

Chéserys areas of the Aiguilles Rouges. la Tête Tré

Aiguilles Rouges Envers des Aiguilles (2007) by Michel Piola A comprehensive guide to the Envers des Aiguilles area.

Snow, Ice and Mixed 1 and 2 (2006) by François Damilano Rouges Aiguilles

Valley Cragging A comprehensive guide to all non-rock based routes in the Mont Blanc Massif. Matt Livingstone nearing the summit of the Aiguille d'Entrèves on the Aiguille d'Entrèves Traverse (AD-) - page 251. Photo: Charlie Boscoe Cragging Valley 14 Chamonix Acknowledgements Acknowledgements Chamonix 15

Glacier du Tour Glacier As well as conveying the relevant information, a I would also like to thank Sharon Wray, who Tim Neil climbing Direct des Capucins (ED1) - page 277 - on guidebook also serves to inspire, and to instill the looked after me through the frantic last few the , Mont Blanc du Tacul. Photo: Calum Muskett passion of the author into the reader. My passion months of writing this book and seemed to know for the mountains that tower above Chamonix instinctively when to suggest getting out for some Glacier du Tour

Glacier d'ArgentièreGlacier is so strong because I’ve been lucky enough to air, and when to let me stay buried in papers, share them with some wonderful friends. I would maps and computer screens. particularly like to thank the following climbers It is with great sadness that this page should for their company, support and good humour on contain a roll call of those friends who went countless Chamonix adventures - Peter Riley, into the mountains and never came back. The Glacier d'Argentière Glacier de Talèfre Glacier Tom Grant, Matt Livingstone, Tristan Wise, Tom otherwise enjoyable process of sending copies of Moores, Phil Ebert, Emma Jack, John Cuthbert this book to those listed above will be tainted by and Sharon Wray. the knowledge that I would prefer to be sending In addition, I would also like to thank the following out four more copies. The loss of Liz Daley, Will Glacier de Talèfre Grandes Jorasses people, some of whom have accompanied me Eaton, Will Wilkinson and Martin Widén remind We are grateful the following on routes, some who contributed their fantastic me that high and beautiful mountains demand companies who have supported photographs and others who have patiently sat constant vigilance and respect. this guidebook.

and given me the benefit of their knowledge so Finally, I thank my parents, who provided me with Jorasses Grandes

Envers des Aiguilles that every description, line and detail is just right. a loving and happy childhood then watched me Action Outdoors - Page 11 Whichever category you fall into, thank you for disappear off to Chamonix aged 22 in search of action-outdoors.co.uk your help: Caroline Mulligan, Matt Helliker, Ben adventure. Ten years on, their love and support is Tibbetts, Alex Buisse, Charley Radcliffe, Alistair unwavering. This book is for them. Alpine Guides - Page 39 Hurst, Alastair Lee, Calum Muskett, Alex Mathie, Charlie Boscoe, August 2016 alpine-guides.com des Aiguilles Envers Plan de l'Aiguille Tom Ripley, Jon deMontjoye, Mike Lea, Oscar Alauzon - Page 25 Lopez-Bueno, Kyle Wood, James Thacker, Dan alauzon.com Fitzgerald, Kathy Cosley, Tim Neill, Nick Taylor, Nick Jennings, Dave Searle, Gary Tulloch, Dave Awesome Walls - Page 2 Plan de l'Aiguille

Aiguille du Midi Thexton, Sophie Headeach, Owain Jones, awesomewalls.co.uk Morgan Sinclair, Nora Hanson, Ross Hewitt, Dane Burns, Paul Maine, Ally Swinton, Nicolas BMC Insurance - Inside back cover Bussieres, Andy Houseman, John Vincent, du Midi Aiguille Damien McCutcheon, Finn McCann, Andy thebmc.co.uk/insurance Helbronner Wardle, Joel Evans, Ed Docwra, Krister Jonsson, Climbing Technology Jon Griffith, Jon Bracey, Lukasz Warzecha, Oscar - Back cover flap Lopez, Ronnie Legg, Mike Lea, Guilhem Martin climbingtechnology.com Helbronner

Mont du Blanc Tacul Saint Léon and Nick Draper. Elsewhere, Jack Geldard, Alan James, Stephen Crux - Page 47 Horne, Jaimella Espley, Rebecca Ting and the crux.uk.com rest of the Rockfax team deserve huge credit DMM - Back cover

for their efforts in getting this project started, Tacul Blanc du Mont dmmclimbing.com let alone finished. To state that it wouldn’t have Mont Blanc happened without them is to say the least of it. Shops - Page 9 Alan's skill and hard work in editing and layout joe-brown.com has transformed the basic information into the (in Blanc Mont my opinion!) stunning final product. Jack Geldard - Page 49

Tréla Tête It also goes without saying that we are extremely jackgeldard.com grateful to all those climbers over the years who Highland Mountain Guides have developed the superb climbs in this book. la Tête Tré - Inside front cover From the old pioneers of the 1800s to prolific

Aiguilles Rouges highland-mountain-guides.co.uk bolters like Michel Piola, their efforts are much appreciated since, without them, we would have Lowe Alpine - Page 41 nothing to write about! lowealpine.com Aiguilles Rouges Aiguilles - Page 33 Valley Cragging petzl.com Tulson Tolf - Page 19 tulsontolf.com Cragging Valley

Glacier du Tour du Glacier d'Argentière Glacier Jorasses Grandes Aiguilles des Envers l'Aiguille de Plan Helbronner Tacul du Blanc Mont Blanc Mont Tête la Tré Rouges Aiguilles Cragging Valley 17

Logistics

Chamonix

Juha Kauppila on the Swiss Route (TD+) - page 275 - on the Photo: Oscar Lopez-Bueno Grand Capucin, Mont Blanc du Tacul. 16 Glacier du Tour Glacier d'Argentière Grandes Jorasses Envers des Aiguilles Plan de l'Aiguille Helbronner Mont Blanc du Tacul Mont Blanc Tré la Tête Aiguilles Rouges Valley Cragging 18 Chamonix Logistics Emergencies and Rescue

Glacier du Tour Glacier Emergency Services In the event of a mountain incident requiring the assistance of the emergency services: Dial 112 Glacier d'ArgentièreGlacier Be sure to have the details of the incident and a good description of your location.

Mobile phone coverage is generally very good around Chamonix but some of the more remote spots around the Mont Blanc Massif do have small black spots. Glacier de Talèfre Glacier

Travel Insurance UK citizens currently have reciprocal healthcare rights in France, and Italy but it

Grandes Jorasses is vital that you have a European Health Insurance Card (EHIC). These are free and easily obtained via an online application. An EHIC gives you the right to access state-provided healthcare on temporary stays in other European Economic Area (EEA) countries and Switzerland at a reduced cost, or sometimes for free. It will cover immediate and clinically Envers des Aiguilles necessary state-funded treatment until your planned return home to the UK. This may change in the next few years after Brexit. Personal insurance is still essential to cover the potential costs of rescue and repatriation. Depending on where a rescue takes place, you may be picked up by either French, Swiss or Italian emergency services and Plan de l'Aiguille comprehensive insurance is vital to ensure that you do not end up footing a huge bill for the . One climber who appears in this book was given a bill for €8000 after a helicopter pick-up in Switzerland when he was uninsured! For minor injuries and illnesses, Chamonix has an excellent (albeit quite small) hospital and Aiguille du Midi there is a larger hospital in , 25km west of Chamonix, on the way to . There are also numerous pharmacies in the Chamonix Valley. Most of the health centres accept the European Health Insurance Card (EHIC) for emergency treatment and usually just take a copy of it, although some of the private clinics

Helbronner will charge. The same goes for hospital treatment - this must sometimes be paid for and claimed back through your insurance policy.

Mont du Blanc Tacul Rescue Procedure If you are involved in an incident then give the rescue services as many details as you can. Try to let them know your precise location, grid reference, peak name and route name. It may take an hour or more for the emergency services to reach you so any first aid you can administer is critical. If a helicopter is called to the scene you need to signal to the pilot by standing with Mont Blanc your arms up making a 'Y' shape. Once the pilot has seen you, and he looks like he is coming in to hover, move to a safe distance away since the helicopter will either come into land or send a winchman down. The downdraft is considerable so collect all the loose equipment together and get someone to sit on them to stop them being blown away. Do not approach the helicopter

Tréla Tête unless directed to do so by the aircrew since the rotating blades are extremely dangerous.

Smartphone Apps

Aiguilles Rouges If you have a smartphone then download the Echo112 app from the iOS or Android app store. This useful app has an SOS button that will call the correct emergency service no matter which country you are in and send your location using your phone's GPS system. There are also other useful apps that can calculate your OS grid reference from your phone's GPS system - search for Grid Valley Cragging Reference to find one of these in the appropriate app store. Echo112 app

Glacier du Tour du Glacier d'Argentière Glacier Talèfre de Glacier Jorasses Grandes Aiguilles des Envers l'Aiguille de Plan Midi du Aiguille Helbronner Tacul du Blanc Mont Blanc Mont Tête la Tré Rouges Aiguilles Cragging Valley 21 Where is Chamonix? Where alpine town is an Chamonix in the Haute located has an official It of France. region 10,000 of around population 10 up to by this can swell but peak of the summertimes in the season. huge moun- and the The town, it, lie above that tower tains city Swiss 80km southeast of the northwest and 170km of Geneva of these The proximity . of - Chamonix a rela cities make the (by get to to town easy tively and alsoAlps) of the standards the moun- mean that escaping of a bit of culture in favour tains turnswhen the weather bad is straightforward. quite runs from Valley The Chamonix northeast to southwest and the Mont this guidebook covers legendary the Blanc Massif, alpine peaks of glaciated range on the southern side of the climbing paradise the rock valley, range Aiguilles Rouges of the on the north and the best side, in altitude cragging of the low small The relatively the area. this guidebook by covered area means that being based Valley the Chamonix in anywhere every access to easy will allow in this book, whether by route car or pubic transport. the allow do drive, If you journeys: your times for following Chamonix to (though the Mont Blanc (€43.50 - 30 minutes Tunnel) €54.30 return - 2016). one way, - 25 Chamonix Vallorcine to minutes Les Chamonix to - 40 Contamines-Montjoye minutes Chamonix Logistics Chamonix is Chamonix? Where Map p.80 About 10km About Glacier d'Argentière Glacier Glacier de Talèfre SS26 Grandes Jorasses Grandes Entrèves A5 Barberine Courmayeur Helbronner Map p.60 Glacier du Tour Le Tour Argentière Map p.118 Map p.138 Glacier de Talèfre Glacier d'Argentière Glacier p.436 SS26 Grandes Jorasses Grandes Entrèves A5 Barberine Courmayeur Map p.242 Helbronner Glacier du Tour Le Tour Argentière D1056 Vallorcine Map p.314 Map p.267 Map p.154 Envers des Aiguilles des Envers Le Lavancher Vallorcine p.432 Les Chéserys Les p.422 Mont Blanc - Italy Side La Joux p.414 Mont Blanc du Tacul Map p.182 Map Plan de l'Aiguille Les MottetsLes p.412 (4808m) Chamonix Map p.215 Aiguille du Midi du Aiguille Mont Blanc Where is Chamonix? Where Les Bossons Les Map p.338 Aiguilles Rouges Aiguilles Les GaillandsLes p.396 Nice Bern Turin Les Nancy N205 Geneva Marseilles Lyon Map p.302 Mont Blanc - France Side Chamonix Calais Servoz Logistics Chamonix Toulouse Bordeaux p.390 Servoz Nantes

Les Contamines-Montjoye Les Map p.330 Tré la Tête Tré Saint-Gervais-les-Bains 20 Glacier du Tour Glacier d'Argentière Glacier de Talèfre Grandes Jorasses Envers des Aiguilles Plan de l'Aiguille Aiguille du Midi Helbronner Mont Blanc du Tacul Mont Blanc Tré la Tête Aiguilles Rouges Valley Cragging 22 Chamonix Logistics When to Go When to Go Chamonix Logistics 23

Glacier du Tour Glacier Average Temp ˚C Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Chamonix (maximum) 2 5 8 12 17 20 23 23 19 14 7 3 Glacier du Tour

Glacier d'ArgentièreGlacier Chamonix (minimum) -7 -6 -3 0 4 7 9 9 6 2 -3 -6

Hours sun/day Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Glacier d'Argentière

Glacier de Talèfre Glacier Chamonix (average) 4 5 8 9 10 11 11 10 8 7 5 3

Precip. days/month Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Glacier de Talèfre Grandes Jorasses Chamonix (average) 9 9 10 10 13 12 11 11 9 10 10 10 Grandes Jorasses Grandes

Envers des Aiguilles When to Go July - August - The peak of the climbing The range of routes described in this book season, both in terms of temperatures and means that you should be able to climb visitor numbers. With the exception of pure ice something in here on any sunny day of climbs, virtually any route could be possible Envers des Aiguilles Envers depending on conditions. Rockfall and open Plan de l'Aiguille the year. The guide below outlines typical conditions but, as with all mountainous regions, can be big issues so sensible route weather can be unpredictable and snow can fall choice is vital.

unexpectedly at any time of the year. Plan de l'Aiguille September - A colder and quieter version of Aiguille du Midi January - February - Generally this is peak July and August. By September the mountains season for powder but some alpine ice are usually very dry so rock routes are usually the best options and solitude is much easier

routes such as the mixed climbs on the Pointes du Midi Aiguille Lachenal (page 288) and the routes on the to find.

Helbronner east face of the Grands Montets Ridge (page 102) are possible for those with a tolerance for October - November - A quiet time of year

cold temperatures. which often has unsettled weather. When the Helbronner sun is out, conditions for snow and ice routes Mont du Blanc Tacul March - April - A great time to be in the can be superb. The valley looks beautiful in Alps. Some of the valley crags will be dry by autumn, with snowy mountains towering above mid-March and ice is also likely to be plentiful green and golden trees.

in the high mountains. Much of the south-facing Tacul Blanc du Mont

Mont Blanc mountain granite will be dry too and can be December - Options in the mountains tend to approached and descended from on skis. be limited so south-facing valley cragging is

the best bet. Blanc Mont May - Usually quite an unsettled month with insufficient snow in the mountains Tréla Tête for approaches on skis, but too much for

approaches on foot. Valley is la Tête Tré usually the best option. Aiguilles Rouges June - Often the least settled of the summer months because the rapidly melting remainder

of the winter can create unstable Rouges Aiguilles

Valley Cragging weather and regular thunderstorms. If the weather is good, and the nights cold, some of the massif's snow-based routes can be in Two climbers dwarfed by their surroundings on the The Rochefort Ridge (AD) - page 247 - a route stunning condition. best enjoyed under a clear blue sky and in snowy, early summer conditions. Photo: Tom Moores Cragging Valley page 184 - of the - Aiguille de l'M. Photo: Charlie Boscoe Peter Riley low down on the North- northeast Ridge (D)

scan for map Getting There Logistics Chamonix main approaches start from are indicated indicated start are main approaches from The parking spots where some of the The parking spots where ast value to be entered separately. separately. be entered to East value

44.39626 4.19651

GPS yourself a bit of money. yourself through the city and it will be slow, but you will save will save you but the citythrough and it will be slow, for the motorway vignette - avoid the motorways the motorways - avoid vignette the motorway for mentioned above for getting through Geneva applies Geneva through getting for mentioned above way and are well worth paying for. The situation for. worth well and are paying way will use the toll roads, which cost roughly €80 each €80 each which cost roughly roads, will use the toll Spots Parking half an hour longer. These times assume that you These times assume that you half an hour longer. and the stunning boulders of Fontainebleau is only is only of Fontainebleau and the stunning boulders to Chamonix if you just go for it, but going via Paris going via Paris it, but just go for Chamonix if you to which can add delays to your journey. your to which can add delays Calais of driving time from 8 hours almost exactly but will have to drive through the centre of Geneva, of Geneva, the centre through drive to will have but It takes sport turn should the weather crags nasty. car from the French side means you avoid this charge this charge avoid side means you the French car from Provence the Haute the option of bailing out to you but means that you can take the motorway. Hiring the the motorway. can take means that you but It also gives a lot of kit. or have stay, an extended need a Swiss motorway vignette, which is expensive which is expensive vignette, motorway need a Swiss plan car is a good choice if you own Driving your in the Swiss section of , will section of Geneva then you in the Swiss the UK Driving from allowed to drive in Italy and/or Switzerland. If you hire hire If you and/or Switzerland. in Italy drive to allowed for various extras and add-ons. Also check if you are are if you Also check and add-ons. extras various for to read the small print or you may be stung at pick-up be stung at pick-up may the small print or you read to useful resource for finding the best deal, but be sure but be sure finding the best deal, for useful resource cragging. The comparison site rentalcars.com is aThe comparison site cragging. tackle climbs on the Italian side, or do a lot of valley or do a lot of valley side, the Italian climbs on tackle Car hire is an option if you intend to drive around, around, drive to intend if you is an option hire Car from many other international airports. many from Hire Car BA, Swiss Air and EasyJet. It can also be reached also be reached It can Air and EasyJet. Swiss BA, airport. It is served by direct flights from the UK by the UK from flights direct airport. It is served by Flying Geneva from drive an hour's over is just Chamonix into a navigation app like Google Maps. app like a navigation into smartphone to open the coordinates direct direct smartphone open the coordinates to You can also use a QR Scan app on your can also use a QR Scan app on your You and comma-separated numbers, others require a North require others numbers, comma-separated alternative formats; some devices are happy with two happy are devices some formats; alternative Different GPS devices accept these numbers in accept these numbers GPS devices Different two decimal numbers as in the sample blue box. box. two as in the sample blue decimal numbers with a precise GPS location. This is in the form of This is in the form GPS location. with a precise 24 Glacier du Tour Glacier d'Argentière Glacier de Talèfre Grandes Jorasses Envers des Aiguilles Plan de l'Aiguille Aiguille du Midi Helbronner Mont Blanc du Tacul Mont Blanc Tré la Tête Aiguilles Rouges Valley Cragging

Glacier du Tour du Glacier d'Argentière Glacier Talèfre de Glacier Jorasses Grandes Aiguilles des Envers l'Aiguille de Plan Midi du Aiguille Helbronner Tacul du Blanc Mont Blanc Mont Tête la Tré Rouges Aiguilles Cragging Valley 27 - under the Aiguille du Midi lift. The Midi lift. The the Aiguille du - under page 212 - (AD+) Chamonix Logistics Chamonix Tom Grant and Charlie Boscoe traversing off from the top of the off from Boscoe traversing and Charlie Grant Tom Mallory-Porter Saint Léon Guilhem Martin Spur. Photo: Frendo taken from the photo is Getting Around €27.00 €27.00 €27.50 €31.00 €31.00 €31.00 €31.00 €34.50 €58.50 ...... Montets Grands Le Tour ...... Brévent Train Montenvers Transport Public Chamonix is so popular One of the reasons or to get there don't need a car to is that you from The train arrive. once you around move airport Chamonix is expensive Geneva to airport but 3 hours transfers over and takes at €25 - €35 each way very reasonable are minutes. 1 hour 15 roughly and take is a train there Once in the Chamonix valley climbers For Vallorcine. St Gervais to from of Barberine visit the crags to wanting is a furtherthere which carries train on is also There Châtelard. to Vallorcine from service station the train bus from a regular Les Contamines-Montjoye, at St Gervais to chapter Tête la Tré in the the routes where from. approached are is also a good networkThere of buses Les from serving all corners of the valley, and train bus Up-to-date Tour. Le Houches to at the Chamonix be found can timetables Office. Tourist or descending from, approached routes For it is side of the massif, the Italian into, the Mont Blanc through get a bus to possible can buses Further Courmayeur. to Tunnel Val and Veni Val of the valleys to be taken begin and end. some routes where Ferret, Panoramique ...... Index du Mont Blanc. . . . . Tramway to tend but 2016 summer for correct Prices Passes or two year. up a every creep stations. at the lift available are the by operated in Chamonix are All the lifts du Mont Blanc. Compagnie compagniedumontblanc.fr It is possible to pay for each lift individually. individually. each lift for pay to It is possible tickets one way a return ticket, for are Prices 25% cheaper. roughly are Midi de l'Aiguille Getting Around Logistics Chamonix

gondola are both included. gondola are The Tramway du Mont Blanc and Prarion du Mont Blanc and Prarion Tramway The cable car in Les Houches, or the Italian lifts. lifts. or the Italian in Les Houches, car cable du Midi and the Helbronner, the Bellevue the Bellevue du Midi and the Helbronner, the Panoramique lift between the Aiguille between the lift the Panoramique The Mont Blanc Multipasses don't cover The Mont Blanc Multipasses don't cover season pass is €385. - 20% more expensive. The full summer expensive. - 20% more 15 days. The non-consecutive option is 10% option is 10% The non-consecutive days. 15 for 5 days, €155 for 10 days and €205 for and €205 for days 10 for €155 5 days, for For consecutive days, the pass costs €105 the pass costs €105 days, consecutive For non-consecutive. non-consecutive. you'd prefer the days to be consecutive or consecutive be to the days prefer you'd days of lift usage you need, and whether usage you of lift days This enables you to choose how many many choose how to you This enables option is to buy a Mont Blanc Multipass. a Mont Blanc Multipass. buy option is to days climbing in the valley, then the best then the climbing in the valley, days If you are planning to spend multiple spend multiple planning to are Cost - If you June to mid September for climbing. for mid September to June all open for skiing in winter and from mid and from in winter skiing all open for The lifts at Le Tour, Brévent and Flégère are are and Flégère Brévent Tour, at Le The lifts August. and then reopens for summer in July and in July summer for and then reopens season from mid December to early May May early mid December to season from The Grands Montets is open for the winter the winter is open for Montets The Grands closes for at least 6 weeks every autumn. every 6 weeks at least closes for mid December until mid-September but but mid December until mid-September The Montvenvers train is always open from open from is always train The Montvenvers Midi is only open in the summer season. open in the summer season. Midi is only which links the Helbronner and Aiguille du and which links the Helbronner is open all year but the Panoramique lift lift the Panoramique but is open all year The Helbronner cable car from Courmayeur Courmayeur car from cable The Helbronner weeks in November for maintenance). maintenance). for in November weeks open virtually all year (it closes for 3 to 4 to 3 (it closes for open virtually all year The Aiguille du Midi is Opening Times The - of using the lifts is well worth paying for. worth for. is well paying of using the lifts an alpine climbing trip is, the extra expense expense the extra an alpine climbing trip is, already cost, and how precious each day of each day precious cost, and how already travel to Chamonix and accommodation has Chamonix and accommodation to travel When you consider how much your kit, your much consider how you When themselves out walking up to routes instead. instead. routes up to out walking themselves climbers have tried to save money and wore and wore money save tried to have climbers alpine trip has been a flop because tight because tight alpine tripflop has been a the valley's incredible lift system. Many an Many system. lift incredible the valley's because they are so easy to access using to so easy are because they legendary, not only for their beauty but also beauty their but for not only legendary, Lifts are mountains Chamonix's Use them! 26 Glacier du Tour Glacier d'Argentière Glacier de Talèfre Grandes Jorasses Envers des Aiguilles Plan de l'Aiguille Aiguille du Midi Helbronner Mont Blanc du Tacul Mont Blanc Tré la Tête Aiguilles Rouges Valley Cragging 28 Chamonix Logistics Where to Stay Where to Stay Chamonix Logistics 29

Glacier du Tour Glacier Mountain Camping Pitching a tent and camping in the mountains above Chamonix is illegal. It is legal to bivouac (without a tent) between sunset and sunrise. The PGHM (Chamonix's mountain police Glacier du Tour and rescue service) are increasingly cracking down on mountain camping, particularly on Glacier d'ArgentièreGlacier Mont Blanc's more popular routes, so please use the huts and lift system and refrain from camping. In addition to keeping you out or trouble, this also has the huge benefit that it saves carrying a tent and sleeping bag around the mountains. Glacier d'Argentière Glacier de Talèfre Glacier Glacier de Talèfre Grandes Jorasses Grandes Jorasses Grandes Envers des Aiguilles Envers des Aiguilles Envers Plan de l'Aiguille Plan de l'Aiguille Aiguille du Midi Aiguille du Midi Aiguille Helbronner Helbronner Chamonix has countless places to stay to Mont du Blanc Tacul suit most budgets. Hotels, Hostels and Apartments Camping For those not keen on camping, Chamonix There are numerous campsites in the has plenty more on offer. There are several Tacul Blanc du Mont

Mont Blanc Chamonix Valley that cater for tents, hostel-type options with shared bathroom caravans and campervans. Generally these facilities, and these cost €21 - €25 per night

are fairly cramped but the facilities are good for a bed in a dormitory. There is also a Blanc Mont and always clean. Each person, tent and large selection of hotels, from (relatively)

Tréla Tête car is charged individually so prices can cheap and cheerful options costing roughly add up but camping remains the best value €100 per night, right through to 5-star luxury accommodation in the valley. Expect to pay choices. The various hostels and hotels are la Tête Tré

Aiguilles Rouges something in the region of €5.50 - €9 per accustomed to walkers and climbers and person, €7 - €10 per and €3 - €4 for often have a boot room where you can dry an electric hook-up per day. Prices vary out kit or leave muddy boots. Tom Moores descending from the Grands Montets down the between low and high season (July and There is also a large selection of chalets Rouges Aiguilles Glacier du Nant Blanc heading for Voie Ravanel (D) - page

Valley Cragging August). Campsites are indicated on the and self-catered apartments ranging from 111 - up the southwest arête of Pointe Bayère. In the maps with each section. Unlike the old single room studios costing roughly €400 - distance is Mont Blanc and the Dôme du Goûter with the days, wild camping in the valley is no longer €600 per week to enormous chalets which Envers des Aiguilles and its two main peaks, the Grépon and Grands Charmoz, in front. Above and left of the climber's permitted. may be out of most people's financial range. head is the Montenvers train station. Photo: Charlie Boscoe Cragging Valley 30 Chamonix Logistics Refuges and Bivouac Shelters Refuges and Bivouac Shelters Chamonix Logistics 31

Glacier du Tour Glacier Refuges The following is a list of the staffed refuges Relaxing on the terrace of the Rifugio Boccalatte (page 145) and reading the hut book having made the long descent from Refuges (or 'Rifugios' - in Italian) are in the areas covered by this book. the summit of the Grandes Jorasses. Photo: Peter Riley. mountain huts which offer full board Glacier du Tour accommodation in dormitory rooms. Glacier d'ArgentièreGlacier Glacier du Tour Generally refuges are warm, dry and Refuge Albert Premier . +33 450 531603 welcoming but fairly basic. A sleeping bag Cabane du . . . +41 277 831438 is not required as blankets are provided, but a thin sleeping bag liner is sometimes Glacier d'Argentière Glacier de Talèfre Glacier expected and ensures a more pleasant night Glacier d'Argentière in the highly likely event that the hut blankets Refuge d'Argentière . . +33 450 531603 are a bit grubby and threadbare. Glacier de Talèfre Generally you can choose to stay 'demi- Glacier de Talèfre Grandes Jorasses pension/mezza pensione' (half board) which Refuge du Couvercle . . +33 450 531694 will usually be a set three course meal and

a basic breakfast; 'petit déjeuner/con prima Grandes Jorasses Jorasses Grandes

Envers des Aiguilles colazione' (bed and breakfast) or 'seulement Refuge de . . +33 636 953264 nuit/solo pernottamento' (bed only). In some Rifugio Boccalatte . . +39 165 844070 refuges half board is compulsory. Breakfast

is served at whatever time you request but Envers des Aiguilles des Aiguilles Envers Plan de l'Aiguille often this means that leaves Refuge d'Envers des Aiguilles breakfast out for you the night before rather ...... +33 450 531603 than getting up to serve you. In refuges

offering only a bed, a cooking area is Plan de l'Aiguille

Aiguille du Midi provided and there is sometimes running Aiguille du Midi/Mont Blanc du Tacul water. Refuge des Cosmiques +33 450 544016 Prices range from €13.50 for just a bed through to €90 for half board in some of the Helbronner/Mont Blanc du Tacul du Midi Aiguille

Helbronner most expensive French and Swiss refuges. Rifugio Torino . . . . +39 165 844034 Any bottled water, drinks or snacks will

be extra, as will a packed lunch, which is Mont Blanc Helbronner offered in most places. Credit cards are Mont du Blanc Tacul Refuge du Goûter +33 450 544093 not universally accepted so taking cash is N.B. The Refuge du Goûter can only be booked the best option. A membership card to a online at refugedugouter.ffcam.fr European gives roughly a €10 Refuge Tête Rousse . . +33 450 582497

discount on half board or bed and breakfast. Refuge de Nid d'Aigle . +33 450 477623 Tacul Blanc du Mont

Mont Blanc It is advised to book refuge places in Refuge des Cosmiques +33 450 544016 advance but if you do turn up last minute, Rifugio du Gonella . . .+39 165 885101 Bivouac Shelters

you will rarely be turned away. Most refuge Rifugio Monzino . . . +39 165 809553 Bivouac shelters are generally little more Blanc Mont guardians speak some English but, if you are Refuge Durier . . . . +33 689 532510 than a metal shed with some bunkbeds and

Tréla Tête struggling, any tourist office in the Chamonix a small area to cook in, but they do provide Valley can make reservations for you. Any Tré la Tête convenient and well-located shelters. Most huts mentioned in this book but not listed Refuge des Conscrits . +33 479 890903 have blankets and as such a sleeping bag la Tête Tré here are unmanned and reservations are not Aiguilles Rouges Refuge de Tré la Tête . . +33 450 470168 is usually not required, though you may be required. Almost all staffed huts have a very glad of a sleeping bag liner. You do need to basic winter room which do not require a Aiguilles Rouges take your own cooking equipment and food.

reservation and will be open in low season, Rouges Aiguilles Refuge du Lac Blanc . . +33 450 534914 There is no reservation system for bivouac

Valley Cragging whenever no guardian is present. huts so they can often be full; turning up early is advised if you want a bed in a popular hut in peak season. When full there

are often DIY bivvy locations nearby. Cragging Valley 32 Chamonix Logistics Shops and Tourist Information Glacier du Tour Glacier About 4km Argentière Glacier d'ArgentièreGlacier

Index D1056

Le Lavancher Glacier de Talèfre Glacier Les Tines Grands Montets Les Bois Grandes Jorasses Servoz Brévent OHM Montenvers

Centre Sportif Richard Bozon Chamonix Envers des Aiguilles

Les Pelerins Mer de Mont Blanc Glace Escalade N205 Les Bossons

Plan de l'Aiguille Tunnel du Shopping Mont Blanc Les Chauvants Taconnaz Refuge Campsite Les Houches Tourist Information Hospital Aiguille du Midi Tourist Information Opening Times Chamonix, Les Houches and Argentière all Most shops, supermarkets and services have tourist information offices which provide close for an extended lunch break, usually excellent information on shops, services, from around 12pm to 3pm. On Sundays, Helbronner accommodation and events. They will also virtually every shop is closed so stock up on help you book a refuge if your French isn't Saturday! Restaurants, bars and refuges are good. always open on a Sunday. Mont du Blanc Tacul Chamonix Tourist Office +33 450 530024 Climbing Shops Les Houches Tourist Office If you like gear shops, you'll enjoy Chamonix +33 450 555062 and its surrounding villages. As well as

Mont Blanc Argentière Tourist Office a number of brand-specific shops there +33 450 540214 are numerous large outdoor shops selling everything you could need for an alpine trip. Supermarkets Chamonix - Snell Sports

Tréla Tête The Chamonix Valley has a selection of Chamonix - Cham 3S small supermarkets and, for those with a Chamonix - Sports Alpins car, there are several large supermarkets in Chamonix - Ravanel

Aiguilles Rouges Sallanches down the valley westwards. Chamonix - Alplib (a book shop with an Chamonix also has some pleasant, if a little excellent selection of maps and guidebooks expensive, specialist shops selling various for the Mont Blanc Massif). local meats, cheeses and wine. Argentière - Hurycana Sports

Valley Cragging Sallanches - For those with a car, the huge Quechua/Decathlon store and the comprehensive Aux Vieux Campeur are well worth a few hours of a rainy rest day. 34 Chamonix Logistics Other Activities Other Activities Chamonix Logistics 35

Glacier du Tour Glacier Walking Wet Weather Options The walking in Chamonix is superb With a huge range of outdoor shops,

and offers views of some of the world's museums and nice cafes, passing a rainy Glacier du Tour

Glacier d'ArgentièreGlacier best known peaks. The paths are well day in Chamonix is rarely a problem. For signposted and there is a good network of those with a lift pass, getting a workout on a mountain huts to provide refreshments and rainy day by up to a cable car station accommodation. and then descending on the lift is a popular Glacier d'Argentière

Glacier de Talèfre Glacier option, albeit not a particularly restful one. Paragliding For a different perspective over the Swimming

mountains, paragliding is an interesting There is a large public swimming bath in the Glacier de Talèfre

Grandes Jorasses option and can be easily organised in Centre Sportif Richard Bozon with an indoor Chamonix. Take off options are numerous, and outdoor pool - see map on page 32. with Brévent and the Plan de l'Aiguille being Down the valley on the way to Sallanches is the most popular. Lac de Passy - an outdoor swimming lake. Jorasses Grandes Envers des Aiguilles Take some beers and a barbeque for a full Road Biking relaxing day out. With only one bike-friendly road into and out of the valley, Chamonix is not an ideal Indoor Climbing des Aiguilles Envers Plan de l'Aiguille road biking venue in itself. However, those Finally for those who don't want to go a with a car can drive to some stunning areas day without training, there are two climbing walls open to the public in the valley. There

nearby, particularly the Aravis range to the Plan de l'Aiguille west of the Mont Blanc Massif. For road are other indoor walls but these are for Aiguille du Midi biking in the valley, going from the MBC pub members only and require an application on the outskirts of Chamonix town centre to process.

the makes for a good time du Midi Aiguille trial course. Chamonix (+33 450 53 23 70) Helbronner Part of the Centre Sportif Richard Bozon, this small bouldering wall is well located but

Mountain Biking Helbronner After climbing, mountain biking is probably can be busy at peak times. Mont du Blanc Tacul the second most popular summer sport in Chamonix. The excellent lift system allows Les Houches (+33 450 54 76 48) access to numerous downhill trails and Called Mont Blanc Escalade, this is a

there is also an excellent network of cross popular wall, with 14m routes. Tacul Blanc du Mont There is also a very small bouldering area.

Mont Blanc country tracks. Chamonix town centre has a number of good mountain biking shops, See map on page 32.

with plenty of information available, and Blanc Mont bikes for hire. More Information

Tréla Tête The web site Chamonix.net has a lot of Museums options for all sorts of activities throughout For those with an interest in the history of the year including , rafting, la Tête Tré kayaking, via ferrata and golf.

Aiguilles Rouges alpinism, Chamonix is an excellent place to indulge your passion. The Alpine Museum, Guides Office and, morbid as it may sound,

Chamonix cemetery are all worth a visit to Rouges Aiguilles

Valley Cragging pay your respects to the pioneers of the Alps. A slack liner above the Brévent's east face which is often used as an exit point for local BASE jumpers. Spectating in Chamonix can often be as fun as the climbing itself. Photo: Charlie Boscoe Cragging Valley

Glacier du Tour du Glacier d'Argentière Glacier Jorasses Grandes Aiguilles des Envers l'Aiguille de Plan Helbronner Tacul du Blanc Mont Blanc Mont Tête la Tré Rouges Aiguilles Cragging Valley 37 page 263 - Mont Maudit. Far below is a Climbing Chamonix

Roger Knox on the crest of the Brenva Spur (D-) - cloud inversion in and Val . Photo: Ben Tibbetts (bentibbettsphotography.com) Aosta. Photo: Ben Tibbetts and Val Veny cloud inversion in Val 36 Glacier du Tour Glacier d'Argentière Grandes Jorasses Envers des Aiguilles Plan de l'Aiguille Helbronner Mont Blanc du Tacul Mont Blanc Tré la Tête Aiguilles Rouges Valley Cragging page 251. Photo: James Thacker Sam and Alan McIntosh enjoying the Aiguille d'Entrèves (AD-) - Traverse (Trainee , will be guiding from 2017) from will be guiding Guide, Mountain (Trainee jackgeldard.com or instruct guide in the Chamonix to In order hold the UIAGM/ guides must mountains, and Ski Guide qualification. Mountain IFMGA The following guiding agencies are friendly, friendly, are agencies guiding The following all to guide types able and flexible professional, and instruct alpine skills. of routes cover) Guides (inside front High Mountain highmountainguides.com (opposite) Alpine Guides alpine-guides.com Thacker James Mountaineering jamesthacker-mountaineering.co.uk 49) (page Geldard Jack Guiding ServicesGuiding

Climbing Chamonix

Guiding Services guides mountain qualified many are There guided A in the Chamonix area. operating the of seeing way itineraryan excellent can be experience insufficient those with for mountains who those or for it alone, attempting safe feel to in the company a route complete wish to simply either offer offices Guiding of other people. specific needs of a suit the itineraries to tailored of party programme or individual, or a set weekly in Chamonix. routes some of the most popular alpine adventures, Options include high mountain a modern sport climbing, multi-pitch trad routes, or glacier trekking at a sport via ferrata, day crag, . can also be days a few a guide for Employing to 'learn looking to climbers beneficial extremely UIAGM/IFMGA climbing. of alpine the ropes' and hiring superb instructors guides are mountain one at the start of an alpine trip is an excellent through of learning move skills needed to the way high mountains. 38 Glacier du Tour Glacier d'Argentière Glacier de Talèfre Grandes Jorasses Envers des Aiguilles Plan de l'Aiguille Aiguille du Midi Helbronner Mont Blanc du Tacul Mont Blanc Tré la Tête Aiguilles Rouges Valley Cragging 40 Chamonix Climbing Gear

Glacier du Tour Glacier Outside the Aiguilles Rouges and valley cragging Slings chapters, there are no routes which can be Slings are light, quick to place and have many climbed entirely on fixed gear. As such, a rack of functions, so take lots of them. Some tat can also is necessary to climb most be useful for equalising abseil anchors (don't be Glacier d'ArgentièreGlacier routes in this book. The size and nature of the rack afraid to take a knife to some of the stations and required for each route depends on the ability of clear out old tat). the team, the difficulty and nature of the climbing A set of prussiks is mandatory for the many abseil and the length of the route. Judging what to take descents and for potential hauls and rescues. and what to leave behind is an important skill for Glacier de Talèfre Glacier A belay plate that can operate in 'guide mode' an alpine climber and can only be learned through is advisable to assist with moving quickly, and (often bitter!) experience. doubling up as an abseil device. Finally a good number of longer extenders is advised to help Runners keep rope drag to a minimum. Grandes Jorasses Several pages could be dedicated to the discussion about which runners are required for Shoes alpine climbing. As a general rule, the granite For all routes outside the Valley Cragging and above Chamonix is well featured and swallows

Envers des Aiguilles Aiguilles Rouges chapters of this book a pair of climbing protection. The uniform nature of most of B2 or B3 mountaineering boots is required to the cracks means that cams are more useful than approach and descend from your climb. Mixed and wires. On harder rock climbs it is often better to lower-grade rock climbs can also be done in these take a double rack of cams than one set of cams boots but for technical rock, a pair of rock shoes

Plan de l'Aiguille and a set of wires. Indeed, having a set of wires will be required. Given the length of the routes, on a granite rock route can often be a giveaway comfortable rock shoes are a better choice than that you are not a local! Most of the cracks in tight, high-performance ones. Chamonix are at least finger-sized so a micro-cam or two can be handy but usually not essential. Aiguille du Midi Bivvy Gear Some routes, such as the Tournier Spur on Les Ropes Droites and Peuterey Integrale on Mont Blanc, are Trad - Deciding whether to take one or two so long that a bivouac will be essential for most ropes is often one of the toughest calls in alpine people. If you are planning to bivvy on a face you Helbronner climbing. The decision will depend on the nature will need other gear such as extra warm clothing, of the climbing (does the route wander or is it or a sleeping bag, extra food and plenty of water. fairly direct?); the technical difficulty of the route For shorter routes the decision about whether and what the descent entails. One rope wins for

Mont du Blanc Tacul to take bivouac kit can be a tough one. The old simplicity and weight but two offers the possibility adage that, if you take bivvy kit, you'll need it, is for longer abseils and reduces the potential for still true today but going fast and light carries its time consuming rope drag issues. own risks as well. As with gear and rope selection, Sport routes - A single rope is recommended for experience and judgement is required to make a sport climbing in the Aiguilles Rouges and valley well-informed decision. Mont Blanc crags. Some routes require a 70m rope but you will get by with a 60m rope for most of the pitches. Other Gear The scale of the routes above Chamonix means (s) jm that you will need a rucksack on most routes. One Tréla Tête All mixed ice climbs described require technical certainty is that, if a route requires crossing a wet axes - a hammer and an adze. Many of the ridges glacier at any stage, then full rescue kit and longer mixed routes require at least one axe and the ability to use it is vital. for negotiating the snow and ice sections. Regard Carry some extra food and water in case of Aiguilles Rouges the axe symbol (above) shown with the routes as emergency plus a small first aid kit. a rough guide but please use your own judgement A lightweight windproof/waterproof layer is advised as to whether you need none, one or two axes on and a knife for cutting old tat out of the way. a given route. A headtorch for each climber is essential. Mark Valley Cragging Twight, a former resident of Chamonix, quipped in his book about alpine climbing, "You can try taking one headtorch between two, but you will only try it once!" 42 Chamonix Climbing Grades Grades Chamonix Climbing 43

Glacier du Tour Glacier Alpine Grade Aid, Free, 'Obligatoire' The Alpine grade takes into account the overall Alpine Grade Table Traditionally, rock climbs in the Mont Blanc seriousness of a route, not just the technical Sport Alpine Grade UIAA USA Massif were given a grade and difficulty. Even if a route is well within your technical an obligatory grade. The 'obligatoire' (or obl.) Glacier du Tour

Glacier d'ArgentièreGlacier I 5.1 level, the glacial approach and objective dangers 1 grade refers to the difficulty of the climbing can make it a much more serious proposition than F 5.2 assuming that you pull on the fixed gear at it would otherwise be in a smaller, non-glaciated 2 II every opportunity. For example '5b/A0 or 7a'

range. 2+ 5.3 means that the move is 7a if done free, but Glacier d'Argentière Glacier de Talèfre Glacier There are routes in the book for which traditional III+ only 5b if you pull on the fixed gear. rock grades might have been more appropriate, but 3a PD- 5.4 A0, A1, A2,... are aid grades indicating we wanted consistency and also to allow novice IV- increasing difficulty of using the actual aid, alpinists to gradually understand what they can although in most cases in this book the aid 3b PD 5.5 Glacier de Talèfre expect from more serious routes at each grade. moves are straightforward A0 or A1 moves. Grandes Jorasses The Aiguilles Rouges area in particular is a popular 3c IV 5.6 We have given most routes a free climbing venue for learning the alpine game, so the multi- grade with easier aid options mentioned. In pitch routes here have been given alpine grades 4a IV+ some cases we have given the route an overall where most might expect a more conventional grade. 5.7 grade assuming use of an aid point or two. This Jorasses Grandes Envers des Aiguilles Alpine grades are the standard grading system 4b PD+ V- has been done in cases where virtually every for the Mont Blanc Massif, where most climbing ascent is done in this style usually because of protection is hand-placed and/or contains fluctuating 4c AD- V 5.8 a disproportionately hard crux move. levels of fixed protection (pegs or bolts).

AD des Aiguilles Envers 5a V+ Plan de l'Aiguille This provide an overall grade, based on the length, 5.9 Route Lengths difficulty and seriousness of the climb. AD+ VI- Alpine grades begin with F (Facile - easy) and 5b D- In addition to a grade, routes are also given then go to PD (Peu Difficile), AD (Assez Difficile), D a length. Virtually all route lengths refer to the VI Plan de l'Aiguille D (Difficile), TD (Trés Difficile) and finally ED 5c 5.10a vertical height gain. For some routes, such as Aiguille du Midi (Extrêment Difficile) which is open-ended - ED1, D+ traverses, which climb and descend repeatedly, ED2, ED3 and upwards. 6a TD- VI+ 5.10b a vertical route length is not a useful way of TD suggesting how long a climb will take and is 6a+ VII- 5.10c also difficult information to interpret. In these du Midi Aiguille Alpine Technical Grade cases we have given approximate horizontal Helbronner The technical grade refers to the hardest section of 6b VII 5.10d route distances. climbing on the route. For predominantly rock climbs, 6b+ sport climbing grades are used with each pitch. On TD+ VII+ 5.11a Helbronner predominantly mixed terrain or ice, technical grades Route Timings Mont du Blanc Tacul 6c 5.11b Climb times are given for most routes other from 1 (easy cramponing or mixed scrambling) to 7 ED1 VIII- (steep, sustained and extremely technical climbing) than pitched rock climbs. These times are a are used. 6c+ 5.11c suggestion of what the average ascent time is VIII from the bottom to the top of a given route. It 7a 5.11d Tacul Blanc du Mont Commitment Grade ED2 doesn't include the approach time to the crag Mont Blanc VIII+ nor does it include descent time and you need The first line of most route descriptions has a 7a+ 5.12a to factor these in when calculating your timings. commitment grade, a route length and a rough

IX- Pitched rock climbs aren't given route times Blanc Mont climbing time. The Roman numeral commitment 7b 5.12b since these can vary from team to team. As a grade refers to the seriousness of the route, which general rule allowing 20 to 30 minutes per pitch Tréla Tête may be determined by the difficulty of the approach Colour Coding The routes are given a colour-coded dot is a good target to aim for. or descent, the level of objective hazard or the Please keep in mind that the times given difficulty of retreat once on the climb. corresponding to a grade band. The colour la Tête Tré represents a level that a climber should be are approximate but conditions change and The roman numerals go from I (a short route with being slightly outside a suggested time is Aiguilles Rouges easy access and a straightforward descent) to VI happy at, hence valley sport routes tend to be technically harder than equivalent alpine routes. not necessarily a disaster. However, if you (a long, serious and sustained line with a difficult are consistently slower than the suggested approach and descent in a remote area). These Alpine Routes Sport Routes times then consider whether your fitness, Aiguilles Rouges Aiguilles should not be confused with UIAA grades. 1 Up to PD+ Up to 4c acclimatisation and climbing skill are suitable Valley Cragging for the routes you are attempting. 2 AD- to D 5a to 6a+ Ally Swinton high up on the Sport Grade Innominata Ridge 3 D+ to TD+ 6b to 7a (D+) - page 320 - on the Frêney Face of Mont Sport grades are used for single and multi-pitch Valley Cragging Valley Blanc. Photo: Jon Griffith (jonathangriffith.co.uk) sport climbing in the Brévent and valley crags. 4 ED1 and above 7a+ and above 44 Chamonix Climbing Route Descriptions Symbol, Map and Topo Key Chamonix Climbing 45

Glacier du Tour Glacier Alpine Mixed Routes Route Symbols Topo Key

Commitment Grade Two Ice Axe Symbol - Two axes A good route which is well worth the effort. Route illustrated - Seriousness of the are advised since the route involves 1 Route line on a different topo Glacier du Tour

Glacier d'ArgentièreGlacier route. Difficulty of sections of steep mixed ground or ice. A very good route, one of the best on the hidden from view approach or descent, Alpine Grade - 2 crag or mountain. Possible bivvy level of objective Overall grade taking A brilliant route, one of the best in the location hazard and difficulty 2 Migot Spur...... 4mΩ D- 3 account of the length, 3 Chamonix area. of retreat once on the IV, 450m, 4 - 5 hours . Another classic and an ideal first north difficulty and serious- One of the Top 50 most iconic routes of the 5b Descent Glacier d'Argentière Glacier de Talèfre Glacier climb. face, the Migot provides a feel of seriousness without any ness of the climb. 4 Alps. particularly difficult climbing. Technical climbing requiring good balance 1) Cross the bergschrund and climb mixed gullies (may be Alpine mixed and technique, or complex and tricky moves. Climbing/Route dry in late season) through the rock band, to reach the crest Alpine Technical t route Abseil Glacier de Talèfre Length - Length of of the north ridge. If conditions are poor there is another line Grade (Mixed Route) Powerful climbing; roofs, steep rock, low 6a 6a line Grandes Jorasses climbing from bottom further right to get through the rock band, although there is no - On predominantly p lock-offs or long moves off small holds. guarantee that this will be any better than the normal start! of route to top. Total mixed terrain or ice, Sustained climbing; either lots of hard 2) Follow the snow ridge as close as possible to the crest to Belay moves or steep rock giving pumpy climbing. 50m length on longer stay safe from potential serac fall. technical grades from s routes and traverses. Fingery climbing with significant small holds Jorasses Grandes 3) Climb through mixed ground just to the right of the serac. 1 (easy cramponing Approximate Envers des Aiguilles The exact line will depend on conditions. Assuming there is or mixed scrambling) f on the hard sections. 5c vertical good ice, climb the gully closest to the crest, or the one just to Alpine rock Climbing/Route to 7 (steep, sustained Fluttery climbing with big fall potential and 6a height >30 the left to reach the upper snowfield. route Time - Approximate and extremely tech- h scary run-outs. 4) Follow the snowfield (50 degrees and exposed) in a stunning Lower-off timing from bottom of nical climbing). A long reach is helpful, or even essential, for

position to join the Forbes Arête just below the summit. des Aiguilles Envers route to top. Does not FA. A.Migot, C.Devouassoux 28.7.1929 one or more of the moves. 5c Plan de l'Aiguille r Pitch include approach or Graunchy climbing, wide cracks or awkward 25m grades on descent time. k thrutchy moves. Approximate 2 long routes vertical 6c+ Alpine Rock Routes l Loose rock may be encountered. height <30 Plan de l'Aiguille Aiguille du Midi One ice axe is advised. For easier ridge and 1 Commitment Grade One Ice Axe Symbol - One ice axe is j walking routes and glacier approaches. - Seriousness of the advised. Usually for easier ridge and Sport route Two axes are advised. Route involves route. Difficulty of walking routes and glacier approaches. du Midi Aiguille m sections of steep mixed ground or ice. approach or descent, Alpine Grade - 3

Helbronner Approach level of objective Overall grade taking Crag Symbols hazard and difficulty 3 Majorette Thatcher. . . . 3jΩ TD+ 6b+ account of the length, Angle of the approach walk to the base of of retreat once on the II, 170m . A great crack climb, with an equally good name. difficulty and serious- Helbronner S20 mins the routes with approximate time. Map Key Mont du Blanc Tacul climb. 1) 6a. Climb a series of flakes and cracks leftwards and then ness of the climb. back right to belay just beneath a roof. Approach walk to a crag that requires Road Crag in another chapter 2) 6b+. Make a stiff pull through the roof then climb easier 2 hours crossing a glacier or snowfield. Climbing/Route flakes to belay beneath some wide cracks. Alpine Hardest Pitch Z page Length - Length of 3) 6b. Climb the wide cracks and step right to an exposed stance. Grade (Rock Route) Approximate time that the crag is in the Paths

4) 6b. Step left and climb the wide off-width crack that leads out Tacul Blanc du Mont climbing from bottom - Sport grade of the E direct sun (when it is shining). Peak (height) left across an exposed hanging slab.

Mont Blanc of route to top. Total hardest move or pitch 5) 6a. Step left from the belay and head up a narrowing crack a length on longer on a predominantly Best season for this crag. Lift or Mountain face couple of metres left of the ridge crest directly above the stance. I O P B cable car routes and traverses. rock route. page Be careful not to go too far left and stray onto the final chimney Blanc Mont pitch of Les Diamants du Président. An abseil approach is required. Refuge Pitch Grade - Sport FA. M.Piola, P-A.Steiner 17.7.1984 J (height) Col Tréla Tête grade for rock moves Trees Lake Sheltered from bad weather and may be a Building Glacier on a pitch. suntrap in colder weather. * la Tête Tré

Sport Routes Deserted - Quiet and seldom visited. Open rocky Aiguilles Rouges Less good routes or a remote area. ground Route length - Check 4 Quiet - Less popular sections, or good Glacier spot heights on the Surbac à bras . . . . . 3spΩ 6b Sport Grade - Single areas with awkward or long approaches. topos - 30m 1) 3c. Start up Le pas d' la fin but move right to a belay. grade for sport routes Rouges Aiguilles 2) 5c. Make a few juggy moves over the overhang then romp to Steep rock Valley Cragging (Brévent and valley Busy - Places you will seldom be alone. the belay up on the right. crag chapters only). Good routes and easy access. Long route Pitch Grade - Sport 3) 6b. The left-leaning ramp/flake is tough to enter and steep page grade for rock moves and juggy all the way up - brilliant. A great climb to do in one Crowded - The most popular crags which Bivouac

on a pitch. massive 36m pitch. are usually busy when in condition. (height) Scale Cragging Valley make can happily Although most climbers abseils quickly doing multiple single abseils, skill and a vital is a very different and safely when descending, time guide As a rough one. is minutes 10 completing one abseil every accurate more for about right and allows if a planning and time management (ie. should then you six abseils, descent requires The 10 these in one hour). complete aim to that the is based on the assumption minutes if you place; in already are abseil anchors longer then it will take own your build to have per abseil. minutes than 10 with rope should be busy Both climbers abseil the next for management and preparing are If you the whole time during a descent. for enough! not efficient are not, then you Moving Together Moving climbing means both climbers together Moving leader placing runners with the at once, them, and taking and the second removing or over switch to occasionally only belays nervous about are climbers Many re-gear. it done correctly when but together moving moderate of covering way safe is a relatively are there that Provided very quickly. ground and good protection a couple of pieces of rope, of slack metres than a few more never (and better disastrous be to is unlikely a fall That said, if protection fall). than an unroped consider moving or very poor, is unavailable, chances your doubling are since you unroped if with two tied together of a serious fall of you no decent gear in place. have you 30m of roughly having together, moving When right, about between is usually rope climbers on be appropriate or less may though more will liberally runners Extending certain terrain. - which can be the cause of drag rope reduce social! and friction,much literal both One of the most important the most One of skills is the alpine Get up all times. at quickly move ability to descend quickly, climb in quickly, walk early, who Climbers out. back and walk quickly gear over or faff in the view, and take dawdle alpine good seldom make pitches on easy for a route block if they (especially climbers other teams). Alpine SkillsAlpine Climbing Chamonix

similar options. The Lake District and Scotland have plenty of District and Scotland have The Lake walking sections to create excellent long days. long days. excellent create sections to walking possibilities to join relatively easy routes with routes easy join relatively possibilities to Tryfan and Cwm Idwal in particular offer lots of in particular Idwal and Cwm offer Tryfan of North Wales are great in this respect and in this respect great are Wales of North yourself some long days out. The mountains The mountains out. some long days yourself plenty of walking in between them to give plenty in between give of walking them to multiple rock climbs or scrambles and doing climbs or scrambles rock multiple alpine trip is to replicate it by linking together linking together it by replicate alpine trip is to Ultimately, the best way to prepare for an for prepare to way the best Ultimately, improving strength. strength. improving pullups are all excellent and simple ways of and simple ways all excellent pullups are gym, bodyweight squats, lunges, pushups and lunges, squats, gym, bodyweight beneficial and for those lacking access to a access for those lacking beneficial and work, in the form of lifting weights is also weights work, of lifting in the form running uphill is the most effective. Gym running uphill is the most effective. to prepare for an alpine trip, but walking or walking but trip, an alpine for prepare to Any form of cardiovascular exercise will help will help exercise of cardiovascular form Any becomes even greater. becomes even and certainly a short and the challenge one, to be have been a vintage night of sleep, night of sleep, been a vintage be have to spent in a which was unlikely unlikely hut which was spent in a mountain the time. All this after the previous night was night was the previous All this after the time. more than 3000m above sea level for much of much for sea level than 3000m above more you will carry a rucksack and likely be at will carry and likely you a rucksack then finally another long walk. Factor in that Factor walk. another long then finally a tricky and potentially dangerous descent, dangerous a tricky and potentially boots. Then follows a long and technical climb, climb, a long and technical Then follows boots. early, often with a multi-hour walk in mountain in mountain walk with a multi-hour often early, time. On a typical alpine climb the day starts On a typical climb the day alpine time. prepare for an alpine climbing trip. an alpine climbing for prepare a long period of over lots of terrain covering people out and a few ideas about how to to about how ideas and a few people out it involves climbing because rock than fitness Here are some of the things that can catch of the things that can some are Here of all-body higher levels Alpinism requires the physical and technical capability of a team. capability of a team. and technical the physical Fitness dangers all have to be considered, as does be considered, to all have dangers approaches, lengthy descents and objective and objective descents lengthy approaches, Route selection, gear choice, complicated complicated gear choice, selection, Route test of so many skills beyond just climbing. just climbing. skills beyond many of so test Part of the appeal of alpinism is that it is a is that of alpinism the appeal Part of 46 Glacier du Tour Glacier d'Argentière Glacier de Talèfre Grandes Jorasses Envers des Aiguilles Plan de l'Aiguille Aiguille du Midi Helbronner Mont Blanc du Tacul Mont Blanc Tré la Tête Aiguilles Rouges Valley Cragging Route Finding Route not finding in Chamonix is generally Route because as in some alpine areas as tough in the Mont Blanc Massif usually the routes said, locating That features. prominent follow across descent and navigating the correct whole skill are headtorch, by often glaciers, the toughest and can be sets in themselves where Understanding part of an alpine route. is essential and form and how can be learned about partly reading through partly common sense and through glaciers, in and spending time travelling by mainly terrain. crevassed analysing are is that there of be aware One issue to Mont Blanc Massif in the routes hard many not described and that when have that we find fixed to likely are you climbing in the area which are belays, bolted pegs to from gear, Seeing part of a line not included in this book. on the are that you gear does not indicate a line of pegs following and blindly right route of bolts is not a good idea. It is worth spending some time studying your committing a distance, from route proposed marking memory line to and mentally the route line seen an obvious-looking features; key less apparent always is nearly the ground from a time from taking Similarly, once on the route. study and try understand to station to hut or lift pay that subtleties of a glacier will likely on. dividends later Alpine SkillsAlpine ) with their (page 188) with their Charmoz page 184) and Petits de l'M ( The Aiguilles Plan de l'Aiguille. seen from the as Verte, and the Aiguille of the Drus 'shadow' Climbing Chamonix

sources of up-to-date conditions information. of up-to-date sources the Tourist Information Office) are all excellent all excellent are Office) Information Tourist the Haute Montagne (OHM) in Chamonix (near Montagne Haute guardians, online forums and the Office de and the Office online forums guardians, conditions when choosing your route. Refuge Refuge route. conditions when choosing your You should also take account of current account of current should also take You climbs. home with a list of glorious failures on tougher on tougher home with a list of glorious failures routes in the bag is far preferable to going to preferable in the bag is far routes from an alpine trip with half a dozen easier an alpine trip with half a dozen from rucksack! If in doubt, aim low. Coming away away Coming If in doubt, aim low. rucksack! boots, with limited protection and carrying a protection with limited boots, into leading an HVS alpine pitch quickly in big leading an HVS alpine pitch quickly into taking plenty of time over it does not translate translate it does not plentytaking of time over clipping solid gear every few metres and metres few clipping solid gear every Leading HVS rock climbs wearing rock shoes, shoes, climbs wearing rock Leading HVS rock about the ability of you and your partner. partner. about the ability and your of you about routes and conditions, and to be honest and to and conditions, about routes decisions is to gather maximum information information maximum gather decisions is to climbing areas. The key to making good to The key climbing areas. route choice even more vital than in most than in most vital more choice even route The dangers associated with alpinism make with alpinism make associated The dangers Route Choice Route 48 Glacier du Tour Glacier d'Argentière Glacier de Talèfre Grandes Jorasses Envers des Aiguilles Plan de l'Aiguille Aiguille du Midi Helbronner Mont Blanc du Tacul Mont Blanc Tré la Tête Aiguilles Rouges Valley Cragging 50 Chamonix Climbing Alpine Dangers Alpine Dangers Chamonix Climbing 51

Glacier du Tour Glacier In addition to the normal climbing dangers Adrian Samarra and the late Ben Winston crossing the Vallée Bergschrunds Blanche with the Trident du Tacul (page 272) and the Grand (falling off), alpinism involves a whole host Bergschrunds are large crevasses which Capucin (page 274) in the back ground. Photo: Calum Muskett of other potential dangers which need to be separate the edge of a glacier from a Glacier du Tour understood and managed if an acceptable Glacier d'ArgentièreGlacier mountain and no matter how innocuous safety margin is to be maintained. they look, they deserve respect and a cautious approach; looks are often Glacier Travel deceiving. On some routes, such as Petit Glacier d'Argentière

Glacier de Talèfre Glacier When travelling on a wet glacier (one that Viking (page 89) on the Pointe du Domino is snow covered and is not simply blue ice) near , crossing the bergschrund then roping up correctly is essential, as is is widely recognised as being the crux of

carrying, and knowing how to use, a full the route! Glacier de Talèfre

Grandes Jorasses kit. Crossing bergschrunds ('rimayes' in French) For reasons understood only by the is best done by one climber being 20m or protagonists, certain glaciated parts of the so downhill of the bergschrund and

Mont Blanc Massif (particularly around their partner as they approach and cross Jorasses Grandes Envers des Aiguilles the Aiguille du Midi) seem to have been the gap. This climber should then build a deemed safe enough to walk around on belay above it and bring up their partner. unroped by some climbers, possibly due Crossing the bergschrund can involve a

to the sheer number of people travelling large step and/or climbing some difficult soft des Aiguilles Envers

Plan de l'Aiguille on them. Given that the Pointes Lachenal snow. Bergschrunds change quickly with (page 293) near the Aiguille du Midi is so weather and conditions so take care when named because legendary French alpinist dealing with them. died in a crevasse fall Plan de l'Aiguille Aiguille du Midi nearby, the stupidity of not roping up should Seracs be obvious. Numerous crevasse falls occur Seracs are large blocks of glacial ice which on well-travelled and long established paths are formed as glaciers move downhill. There Aiguille du Midi Aiguille across glaciers. is a big one on page 1 of this book. They

Helbronner can often become overhanging on steeper Learning and refining crevasse rescue skills ground, at which point they are liable to

takes time but it is vital. Before an alpine collapse and fall, causing devastation to Helbronner

Mont du Blanc Tacul trip, get plenty of practice holding simulated anyone caught below. Passing under seracs crevasse falls, setting up different anchors can sometimes be unavoidable and the and hauling systems and prussiking up best way to minimise the danger is to move ropes. For some real life practice it is highly as quickly as possible. Take a short break Mont Blanc du Tacul Blanc du Mont recommended to take the Montenvers before going under them, drink some water Mont Blanc train up and walk down to the Mer de and have a bite to eat and then keep going Glace which (in its lower section) is a dry once underway. glacier and provides a perfect spot to try Probably the best known areas of seracs Blanc Mont out different systems and equipment. The above Chamonix are on Mont Blanc's Tréla Tête scenery isn't bad either! Trois Monts Route (page 304). These have collapsed with disastrous consequences Tré la Tête Tré several times in the past decade but it is

Aiguilles Rouges worth keeping in perspective that thousands of climbers pass safely under them every year. Aiguilles Rouges Aiguilles Valley Cragging Valley Cragging Valley 52 Chamonix Climbing Alpine Dangers Alpine Dangers Chamonix Climbing 53

Glacier du Tour Glacier Weather Many routes are committing to the point that retreat is extremely difficult if not impossible. Choosing a Glacier du Tour route which fits the weather forecast is essential Glacier d'ArgentièreGlacier because being stuck high up on a long climb when a thunderstorm arrives is extremely serious. The weather in the Alps often deteriorates in

the afternoon (particularly in early summer) so Glacier d'Argentière Glacier de Talèfre Glacier if the weather forecast is predicting a possible thunderstorm later in the day, pick a route that will almost certainly not take more than a few hours. Even if there is no thunderstorm forecast, keep Glacier de Talèfre Grandes Jorasses a close eye on the weather and only commit to continuing to climb when the sky is blue. Rockfall All the routes in the Aiguilles Rouges, many of the granite rock climbs, and just about any Jorasses Grandes

Envers des Aiguilles Rockfall danger is increasing as the earth's Weather/ Forecasts climate warms up. The good news is that route which follows a ridge throughout, should Chamonix is well served with weather forecast rockfalls generally occur in fairly predictable be safe even in hot conditions, so avoiding websites. The best known is chamonix-meteo. places and at predictable times. Snow and snowy faces and couloirs shouldn't limit your com but yr.no and meteofrance.com (where the

ice-filled faces and couloirs are the main areas choice too much. avalanche bulletin can also be found in winter) are des Aiguilles Envers Plan de l'Aiguille of danger so be aware of what is above you, If there is a good overnight freeze, and you also excellent. Amalgamating different forecasts is and how the weather will affect its stability, do a route which could have rockfall danger, advised as there can be some differences. when climbing on or below these features. getting up early is always advised. It is far The weather forecast (and avalanche bulletin in Generally, rockfall danger is lowest during the better to be already above a potentially winter) are posted every day outside the Office de Plan de l'Aiguille

Aiguille du Midi night when temperatures are below freezing, dangerous area and waiting for the sun to Haute Montagne (OHM) in the centre of Chamonix. but if there is no overnight freeze, rockfall is a come up than below a dangerous area, constant danger during the day and night. desperately racing to beat the heat! A good There are two key ways of minimising rockfall example of this can be seen in the Grand du Midi Aiguille danger - correct choice of route and getting up Couloir on Mont Blanc's popular Goûter Route Helbronner early. In the height of summer, the best option (page 308) which can be extremely dangerous is to simply avoid routes with the potential of in the middle of the day but relatively benign Helbronner rockfall danger. in the dead of night when all the loose stuff is Mont du Blanc Tacul frozen solid. Mont Blanc du Tacul Blanc du Mont Mont Blanc Mont Blanc Mont Tréla Tête Tré la Tête Tré Aiguilles Rouges Aiguilles Rouges Aiguilles Valley Cragging

Yoshiko Miyazaki-Back heading to the summit of - page 94. The Aiguille d'Argentière dominates the background. Photo: Oscar Lopez Bueno Cragging Valley

Glacier du Tour du Glacier d'Argentière Glacier Talèfre de Glacier Jorasses Grandes Aiguilles des Envers l'Aiguille de Plan Midi du Aiguille Helbronner Tacul du Blanc Mont Blanc Mont Tête la Tré Rouges Aiguilles Cragging Valley 56 76 314 338 360 390 396 412 414 422 436 114 134 148 178 214 238 264 Page 298 326 432 Summary For those looking for a tougher way of reaching the top of Europe, the Italian For those looking for a tougher way of reaching the top all grades. side of the mountain provides wild and remote routes of is a perfect place for low-grade alpinists, combining as it does la Tête The Tré views. remote mountaineering, beautiful and stunning Brévent For those wishing to avoid the seriousness of alpine mountaineering, are fully bolted. offers a selection of brilliant rock climbs, most of which multi-pitch routes and it The Index is a great place to climb bolted and traditional has one of the finest mountain views in the world as a backdrop. a good set of sport routes in the west-facing roadside crag with A sunny, mid-grades. Some multi-pitch offerings. routes. A great place to A set of popular buttresses with easy access and lots of as it is over-bolted. get some multi-pitch practice in but the lines are confusing getting used to long Three long routes that are easy to reach and are good for days and moving together. routes across the A beautifully situated crag with some good mostly single-pitch lower and mid-grades. A set of high quality multi-pitch bolted climbing with no lift access required. Magnificent views and relatively easy grades make it a good place to start. A nicely-located west-facing slab with a good set of single and multi-pitch routes. Can get crowded with groups. A vast hillside with a series of long multi-pitch routes connecting the quality sections of rock, plus a great set of harder routes on the Zone area. An excellent area for low/mid-grade alpinists, the Glacier du Tour provides a Glacier du Tour alpinists, the low/mid-grade area for An excellent high peaks. on moderately and mixed climbs superb snow range of is climbs, the Glacier d'Argentière to long, classic ice and mixed When it comes rock too! world. There's some decent densely packed valley in the likely the most a couple excellent rock routes and classic alpine ridges, some Home to several is a mid-grade mecca. climbs, the Glacier de Talèfre of good snow A legendary in the Alps, The of the most impressive mountains peak and one long, serious and amazing alpine climbs. Grandes Jorasses is home to areas for granite climbing in the Alps, the One of the best (and best known) and extremely high quality rock climbing. Envers provides relatively safe from short and An area with just about everything an alpinist looks for, routes through to huge 1200m mixed lines. un-committing granite rock climbing, the Aiguille du Midi is home to some The focal point of Chamonix legendary rock climbs. rock and mixed routes, from easy ridges to high-grade of fun low/mid-grade alpine climbs, the Helbronner As well as an extensive range wild climbs - the Brenva Spur and Kuffner Ridge. is also home to two stunning, A mountain with just about everything, from splitter granite cracks to long, grades. alpine ridges, stunning ice climbs and mixed routes of all climbed from the Mountaineering was 'invented' on Mont Blanc after it was coveted prize. French side and repeating this feat rightly remains a highly B B B B P P P P P P P P P P P P P P P P P P O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O Best season I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I 5 min 1 hour 20 min 10 min 30 min 1/5 min H S S S S S F F F Z Z Z Z Z Z Z Z Z Z Z A Approach ------1 5 9 3 1 3 9 2 2 8 1 7 14 7a+ upwards 7a+ ED1 upwards ED1 - - - - 9 2 2 8 2 3 2 3 10 17 18 18 19 18 16 28 33 6b to 7a 6b to D+ TD+ to 2 2 9 1 1 1 7 2 1 7 6 10 10 10 18 13 13 19 13 22 64 AD- D to 5a to 6a+ 5a to - - - 1 8 3 1 1 3 1 2 1 4 2 4 5 4 1 9 11 24 up to 4c up to F to PD+ F to ------3 25 27 48 26 50 27 41 106 ------6 7 2 4 2 9 2 6 18 14 33 20 ------6 3 4 5 6 5 8 11 18 16 31 m 3 3 6 5 7 10 15 18 18 25 27 48 56 40 27 41 38 37 33 26 Total 106

Vallorcine Barberine Les Chéserys Les Les Mottets Les La Joux Les Gaillands Les Servoz

Destination Planner Destination Valley Crags Valley

Aiguilles Rouges Aiguilles - Index Aiguilles Rouges Aiguilles and Planpraz - Brévent Tré la Tête Tré Mont Blanc - Italy Side Mont Blanc - France Side Mont Blanc - France Mont Blanc du Tacul Mont Blanc du Helbronner Aiguille du MidiAiguille Plan de l'Aiguille Plan Envers des Aiguilles Envers Grandes Jorasses Grandes Glacier de Talèfre Glacier d'Argentière Glacier du Tour 54 Glacier du Tour Glacier d'Argentière Glacier de Talèfre Grandes Jorasses Envers des Aiguilles Plan de l'Aiguille Aiguille du Midi Helbronner Mont Blanc du Tacul Mont Blanc Tré la Tête Aiguilles Rouges Valley Cragging