LAC LONG CLIMBING “My climbing area is great, because I take care of it!” summer 2016 Since its founding in 2001, the lac Long climbing area has been developed by volunteer climbers like you and me. Our work directly contributes to the beauty of this area. In 2008, an initiative uniting climbers, outdoor organizations and the Municipality of St-Alban made possible the purchase of the land, ensuring its conservation and permanent public access for rock climbing. Last year a footbridge was installed on the Noire river. For climbers, this simplifies access to the cliff, without actually making it easy. The same feeling of adventure and quiet outdoor intimacy should still be found. Hope to see you there! Fred Desgranges making it look easy Le monstre du loch Long, 5.11a “Access to climbing sites is fragile and TABLE OF CONTENTS for that reason, very precious.” • Welcome ................................2 • Getting there ............................. 3 • Site description ...........................4 • How to cross the river ......................5 • Emergency information ....................6 • The main sectors ..................... 7 to 13 • Sectors farther to the left ............. 14 to 15 • Additional route info ................. 16 to 18 • Bouldering area (mostly undeveloped) ........19 ienvenue Site ethics Climbing at lac Long is developed with a strong emphasis on traditional climbing, with the goal of preserving the natural beauty of the area as well as encouraging a Privilégiée! spirit of adventure and a personal assumption of risk. In return for our volunteer maintenance of the area, the municipality grants us the Je me sens privilégiée chaque fois que je parviens en haut de la falaise du lac right to climb here freely. By working together, we ensure our long-term access! Long, le corps encore tout électrisé par l’effort. Important points : Mes yeux dérivent vers le paysage, • The land behing the cliff belongs to our neighbors at lac Clair. Please respect sur le lac qui se déploie de tout son long, their privacy by staying close to the cliff. Hiking in the forest above the cliff is sur la forêt, émeraude en été, flamboyante en automne, prohibited, except of course for extraordinary situations such as accidents where a sur la rivière qui rugit en contrebas. top-down rescue may be necessary. • Each year, new routes are opened here. If you see flags or other signs on the Privilégiée car de tous les visiteurs du lac Long, les grimpeurs et les rock, this probably indicates an ongoing project. Avoid climbing other people’s grimpeuses sont les seuls à pouvoir contempler ce spectacle. Ils en ont projects. It takes a long time to prepare a route and it’s demoralizing to learn that l’exclusivité. someone else has climbed it in your absence. • The opening of routes with natural protection is to be favored. The placement of a Alors bienvenue au lac Long. Arrachez-vous la moëlle sur le rocher, escrimez- minimum of fixed anchors is encouraged. The placement of fixed anchors in places vous dans les dièdres, les fissures, grimpez au comble de votre plaisir. Et pour where traditional gear placements exist will not be tolerated (i.e. placing bolts next que votre plaisir soit vraiment comble, une fois en haut, rappelez-vous votre to cracks), except at belay stations. Another exception might be a route which chance unique d’être perché en haut de la falaise, vivez votre privilège et requires fixed pro everywhere, except in one spot. Find the right balance, but place savourez le paysage. the accent on preserving the rock in its natural state. It’s interesting to note that at lac Long, great sport routes are created every year. Valérie Levée In other words, an ethic with strict conditions that encourage respect for the rock hasn’t prevented the development of a rich and varied repertoire of routes. • Adding fixed anchors (i.e. bolts or pitons) to an existing route without the permission of the first ascensionist is strictly forbidden. • Specifications for fixed anchors: - Glue-in anchors encouraged Rock climbing is dangerous. - All stainless steel materials You are climbing on a natural cliff, far from emergency services. Evaluate - The use of hangers that are uniform in color is encouraged the risk at all times and act accordingly. Be aware of your limits. Act responsibly when accidents occur. Your actions might have consequences for everyone. Please climb in a responsible manner so that we can keep our access to this beautiful area. The first version of this guidebook was produced in the Fall of 2001 It is ipdated annually & available for free online at http://www.escaladequebec.com/ All reproduction and distribution of this guidebook is permitted. Designed by Arian Manchego Illustrations Valérie Levée, Jeff Beaulieu Translation A. Manchego, Loic Briand This climbing area is insured by the FQME. For comments or suggestions, please contact the author at: For information on how to become a member, visit: http://www.fqme.qc.ca [email protected] For questions concerning St-Alban or the Parc Naturel Régional de Portneuf, contact Sebastien Perreault, director at PNRP [email protected] or (418) 284-4232 LAC LONG CLIMBING 2 Getting there lac Montauban Take highway 40 to the 254 exit (St-Marc-des-Carrières, route 363) and head north. When you lac Long reach Saint-Marc-des-Carrières, cross the town entirely, turn right on rue Bourque (just before the high school) then turn left on rue Principale to continue north. At the stop sign, cross route 354 and lac Nadeau ne continue straight towards Saint-Alban. When you cross the Sainte-Anne River you will see a wide Ste-An rivière dam on your right. You are passing by the Sainte-Anne Gorges climbing area, it’s to your left. (1) lac Clair Cross the town of St-Alban and continue some 4 kilometers until you reach a strong curve right, (2) St-Raymond 3 here you need to turn left onto a dirt road that heads north. Follow this road to a big sign indicating Ste-Christine Parc Regional Naturel de Portneuf. Here you turn right, this marks the start of the chemin du lac Long. After some 7 kilometers you will reach the lake. (3). During most of the summer and g re especially on weekends, there is a $ 5.00 fee per auto for parking. n i o o L N - e For climbers, there is a first parking area on your right (a) close to a footbridge on the Noire river c r Reference a è l and close to campsites 1 to 5. A second parking area (b), on your left this time, is very close to the vi u i d 1 Gorges de la rivière R dam and campsites 6 to 10. The big parking areas farther along are reserved for vehicles with trailers n a i l Sainte-Anne climbing area and chalet owners. m e d e h g 2 Start of dirt roads c n a r 3 Parking, dam, lac Long 2 climbing area lac Clair properties e (private land) r s a i n l boat ramp l g g a S 'É t l -P h e c i d li p g p e n L a r o St-Alban Notre-Dame n parking for g de-Portneuf boat trailers St-Thuribe Lac Long 1 St-Gilbert climbing area 354 chalet with dam restrooms St-Marc-des Québec b 363 Carrières Camping sites 6 to 10 cable Tyrolean St-Casimir ch e 254 m rd Deschambault i no n e d pid e u u ra n l d n ac ng -A L ra te o e S n ièr g Riv 138 t Trois-Rivières n Grondines e ur a Camping L sites 1 to 5 t- n r i i a v Ste-Anne-de-la-Pérade a . S 3 N o i re LAC LONG CLIMBING 3 The rock Belay stations The cliff at lac Long is composed of gneiss, an igneous rock typical of the Canadian Shield, that Each station provides two fixed anchors with rings or chains for the rappel. In order to maximise was once buried deeply and heated to high temperatures. The rocks of the Shield were once the life of fixed equipment, here are the guidelines to follow: the deep roots of an ancient mountains range, similar to the Himalayas of today, that followed the eastern edge of North America about a billion years ago. Time and the repeated passage of To rappel or to be For toproping, lowered once, feel use your own glaciers eroded the mountains, leaving only their roots. A fault line oriented NNW along the free to use the rings or equipment. lake’s axis is at the source of the steep cliff. The east side of the fault raised up around fifty meters, chains. possibly in a sudden event, exposing the cliff face. The gneiss here is dense, compact and brittle. The rock is probably of sedimentary origin, so it can be grainy in places. It holds protection very well but tiny protection such as RP’s can make it explode. It is more brittle than granite for example. Climbing here is mostly done on lead Knowing how to lead is essential at this site as there are practically no routes where topropes can be installed from the top. A quarter of the routes are bolted (i.e. sport). The remaining majority require removable protection (trad gear). The cliff measures an average of 30 meters high. A 60-meter rope works well, however a 70-meter rope provides more flexibility. For routes with natural protection, a complete and versatile rack is recommended.