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THE PALISADES Venusian Blind Arete - 5.7 Moon Goddess Arete - 5.8 Sun Ribbon Arete - 5.10 The Sierra By Robert “SP” Parker, The Swiss Arete - 5.6 Todd Vogel And POLEMONIUM PEAK Andy Hyslop U - Notch - WI3 V - Notch -WI3+

Photo caption right photographer Introduction THEPALISADES

Although is the highest peak, the Palisades is the Big Pine To Lodge Trailhead 15 miles L throne room of the . The Palisades, named by the south of O N Brewer party of the Whitney Survey in 1864, are home to seven of Lee Vining BIG PINE Bishop 120 4,000 ft E 's 14,000ft peaks and some of the regions finest alpine 120 food . The Palisades are situated east of the town of Big Pine accomodation June The White Mountains beer P and are approached from Glacier Lodge trailhead by two narrow Lake North Fork of Big Pine Creek I and dramatic glacier-carved following that zigzag To Palisades North Crocker N through slopes of sage, , and Jeffrey Pine to emerge in MAMMOTH 6 (6 miles to Temple Crag) Street E LAKES The Sierra Nevada an alpine wonderland. In summer the flowers by these pine- B shaded trails are abundant and kaleidoscopic. BISHOP Glacier Lodge Road I 168 395 S 168 The Palisade is a complex area of milky turquoise lakes fed by First Falls over-night H Big Pine parking O , lofty peaks and passes, deep gullies, hanging basins, Glacier (walk-in) day use The Palisades Lodge The Inyo P sunlight ridges, blocky talus slopes, and towers capped by Mountains parking P a blue sky that is often interrupted by rushing clouds. It is a P O special place where you can refresh your spirits and listen to the Independence Palisade Sage Flat Big Pine Creek W heartbeat of the . Glacier Upper E Lodge N Lone Pine The first ascent of the Middle Palisades (14,040-feet) was made South Fork S August 26, 1921, by Francis P. Farquhar and Ansel F. Hall. (to Palisades South) 10 miles 1 mile R 'With a shout we greeted the summit as its first visitors. ... The McMurray Meadow Road © Rockfax 2004 I summit of the mountain is an extremely narrow knife-edge. We The V had to use great care in moving about, as there were many large 8,000ft E blocks just poised on the brink.' R PERMITS AND REGULATIONS: G The rock isn't the smooth found in some parts of the north Sierra, but a highly weathered granitic north fork of big pine creek O bedrock that forms a complex rock topography that isn't always rock-solid. This is a big mountain arena R Overnight stays require a free WILDERNESS PERMIT. The quota for the North Fork Of Big Pine Creek with all the attendant objective dangers. G is 25 people, 60% of which is reservable ($5 administritive charge) and 40% is walk-in (free) at any of E the Forest Service Ranger Stations. For reservations call 760-873-2483 and All the Sierra greats have made there mark here. from his cabin home in Big Pine Creek visit http://www.r5.fs.fed.us/inyo to educate yourself fully on backcountry regulations. S explored the Palisades extensively and got the first ascents, usually alone, of Mount Gayley, the H Palisades most lofty peak , Starlight Peak and Thunderbolt, as well as many lesser peaks. E Bear Cannisters can be rented for $5 per week from the Forest Service and local outdoor shops. Bear Since and before then many climbers have made their mark including; John and Ruth Mendenhall., R canisters are not legally required but are recommended for the North Fork of Big Pine Creek. Open wood Robert Underhill, Joseph LeConte, Francis Farquhar, Don Jensen, John Fischer, Smoke Blanchard, Bob W fires are not allowed. The WHITE MOUNTAIN RANGER STATION in Bishop (760-873-2500) is open I Swift, Gordon Wiltsie, Doug Robinson, George Lowe, Bob Harrington, Bruce Binder and Peter Croft. For from 8 am to 5 pm daily for walk-in Wilderness Permits and bear cannister rental (or Wilson’s Eastside N many local mountain guides, operating as the Palisades School Of , had a Sports in Bishop). In the south, the MT. WHITNEY RANGER STATION in Lone Pine (760-876-6200) is near Third lake below Temple Crag . R also open daily from 8 am to 5 pm. O The area is split in to Palisade north and south by a rocky spur formed by Mount Gayley and the popular C MOUNTAIN GUIDES: sierra mountain center K Temple Crag. The Palisades crest is a ??mile long ridge and has ?? named peaks, ?? above 14,000-feet If you require a mountain guide for alpine route in the Sierra Nevada call Sierra Mountain Center run by with the rest over 13,500-feet. On north side of these summits are a series of glaciers, the most C southerly in the US, the biggest being the . SP Parker and Todd Vogel. Call them at 760-873-8526 and a visit to their website is a must www.sierra- R mountaincenter.com E Described in this guidebook are some of the technical challenges of the North Palisade area accessed E K by the North Fork of Big Pine creek: the celestial aretes of Temple Crag, the mountainous Swiss Arete APPROACH: to glacier trailhead and camping from big pine that summits Mount Sill, and the icy couloirs of U and V-notch above the Palisade glacier. In Big Pine, turn west on Crocker Sreet between the Mobile and Texaco Gas Stations. Continue up into M the mountains for 11 miles until you see the sign for Big Pine Creek Campgound and Glacier Lodge. At A M Galcier Lodge there are several Forest Service Campgrounds (reservations 877-444-6777) and the M WHERE excellent Glacier Lodge Resort (www.jewelofthesierra.com) where you will find a campground ($15), O The Palisades are situated west of Big Pine in the Sierra Nevada and are approached via the north and cabins ($70 a night) and a small convieniance store (open 7am - 8pm). T south forks of Big Pine creek from Glacier Lodge trailhead, 11 miles west of Big Pine which is 15 miles H south of Bishop. From Glacier Lodge it is 6 miles along the north fork of Big Pine creek to Temple Crag At the time of writing the construction of a mountain hut at Glacier Lodge to accomodate 60 - 80 people A and 11 miles to the Palisade Glacier. is planned for the spring of 2004. L P WHEN PARKING I N For rockclimbing the season begins in June and extends to the first snows, usually anytime between If you are doing the route in a day, park at the last parking area just before the gate and the start of the E September and December. In the winter the Palisades are the holy shrine of California backcountry . Overnight parking is lower down the road. skiing. I C E

261 Introduction THEPALISADES

© Rockfax 2004 L The Palisades North Palisade Area O N Sixth Lake E P Black Lake The I Fourth Lake N Fifth Lake E Big Pine Lakes North Fork Two Eagle Peak Big Pine Creek NorthNorth StarlightStarlight Mount B 12,966ft PalisadePalisade PeakPeak ThunderboltThunderbolt I PolemoniumPolemonium Winchel First Lake 14,242ft 14,200ft PeakPeak 13,775ft S 10,000ft PeakPeak 14,200ft 14,003ft H Second Lake O Sam Mack Mount Mount Meadow Third Lake 6 miles P Robinson from Glacier Lodge SillSill 12,967ft 14,162ft O W 3 2 E 1 6 Mount Agassiz Thunderbolt N 13,893ft Sam Mack L-shaped 5 bergschrund Lake Temple Glacier S Crag South Fork Big snowfield moraine 12,999ft Contact Pass Pine Creek R 12,165ft Glacier 4 I Notch Mount V Sill GayleyGayley Palisade Thunderbolt Glacier E Glacier Mount Glacier loose cliff Gayely R Mount MOVE QUICKLY Willow Lake Winchell 13,510ft Glacier Notch G 13,775ft Pa lisade 13,100ft Glacier L-shaped O 4 snowfield PalisadePalisade LakeLake R 14,003ft 6 CampCamp G Starlight Peak 5 Sill Glacier E 14,200ft GayleyGayley Mount CampCamp North Palisade S 14,242ft Sill 14,153ft H Polemonium Peak Brainerd E 14,080ft Lake Finger Lake R Mount Jepson W 13,390ft I N

R Norman Clyde Pinnacles Temple Crag O Glacier C from Sam Mac K Mount Williams Glacier 13,659ft 3 Meadow C Norman ClydePeak 2 13,920ft 1 R Middle Palisade photo © Austin Post E 14,040ft E The Celestial Aretes of Temple Crag: Venusian Blind Arete 5.7, Moon Goddess Arete 5.8 and Sun K Disapointment Peak Ribbon Arete 5.9…Perfect names for these long routes (20 minimum) that ascend the ridges of 13,917ft the impressive fluted northeast face of Temple Crag. Whilst these routes may have moderate technical M Balcony Peak A 13,840ft ratings don't underestimate the commitment needed. They are often done in a day from the trailhead or a M Temple Crag - Northeast Face camp at Third Lake. All these routes will excite the soul and light the imagination. M O 1. Venusian Blind Arête 5.7 The Swiss Arete 5.8 on Mount Sill T 2. Moon Goddess Arête 5.8 A mountaineering route involving a long approach sometimes over snow, lots of scrambling, and a tech- H 3. Sun Ribbon Arête 5.9 nical arete to this peaks 14,162-feet summit, and then a straightforward but technical descent. Popular to A Mount Sill do from a high camp either at the base of the glacier or from Sam Mack Meadow. It is a very long day L from the trailhead and only should be attempted from here by the fittest parties. P 4. The Swiss Arete 5.8 I U and V - Notch N E Polemonium Peak Follow in the footsteps of Norman Clyde, Yvon Choiunard and Doug Robinson up these narrow gullies of ice to the Palisade Crest. The V-notch is the more classic and harder. Be prepared for a glacial I 5. The V-Notch WI3, 5th Class approach, be able to overcome the bergschund, then delightful steep ice or hard snow climbing to a C 6. The U-Notch WI3, 5th Class 1 mile choice of summits and a descent either the way you came up or over by Mount Sill. E

263 Introduction Temple Crag - THEPALISADES

L O N There is no better introduction to the Sierra Nevada alpine climbing than Temple Crag: the approach is APPROACH: to third lake from glacier lodge E easy to follow, overnight permits are relatively easy to get, and the climbing and the rock is beautiful. The The trail up the North Fork of Lone Pine Creek is a beautiful hike in its own right and very simple to most popular routes here are the Celestial Aretes: Moon Goddess, Sun Ribbon and Venusian Blind. follow (see map). For the most part the trail follows the creek, although there are two alternatives in the P Venusian Blind is the easiest of the three aretes The next step up from Venusian is the adjacent Moon I initial part of the hike (take the high road to avoid steeper switch-backs) and always stay left at any forks. Goddess Arete (they also share the same approach and initial pitches). Moon Goddess is more involved, N You will pass an old stone house that used to belong to the Hollywood star Lon Chaney, it is now a E longer in length and the route finding is trickier than its easier neighbor. The Big daddy is Sun Ribbon Ranger Refuge. You are deposited after about 5 miles at First and Second Lakes and a fine view of Temple Crag. B Most camp below Temple Crag before their assault. But if you are experienced, relatively fit, and can I move fast it is very do-able in a day from the trailhead., CAMPING S H WHERE Good sites can be found near the outlet to Second Lake. There are several spots that are less good on O the southern side of the lake. Some very nice spots are located immediately below the Dark Star P Temple Crag is situated near the Palisade Glacier and is approached via the north fork of Big Pine creek Buttress feature of Temple Crag. These spots have the advantage of being quite close to the climbs and O from Glacier Lodge trailhead, 11 miles west of Big Pine which is 15 miles south of Bishop. From Glacier away from the main trail. Later season these spots usually require a ten minute walk for water (bring a Lodge it is 6 miles hike to Temple Crag. W bag). These sites necessitate carrying your overnight pack over the small moraines that project from the E crag towards Third and Second Lake, an arduous task. If you intend to attempt other objectives in the N WHEN you will probably want to camp somewhere over by Third Lake (but avoid the ghetto camp near S the main trail on the north east side of the lake). The trail to Temple Crag is usually free of snow from early June onwards to the first winter snows in R October. The snow bank at the base of the cliff usually persists throughout the season, although the later OVERVIEW OF TEMPLE CRAG I in the season you go the less snow approach you will have to endure or enjoy. V A great overview of Temple can be had from near Second Lake, where the main trail intersects the lake. E R STRATEGY From this spot one can easily see the giant north buttress known as Dark Star (though it contains other routes as well) which drops down to form the lowest point of Temple Crag. From the toe of Dark Star With an early start fast and competent parties can climb any of these routes in a day from the Glacier G Buttress to Contact Pass the face of Temple Crag is more or less evenly divided into thirds by two deep Lodge trailhead. Most, however, especially if coming from low elevations, prefer to spread the adventure O gullies, usually snow filled. The right hand gully is the Mendenhall Couloir and the left gully (unnamed) R of two or three days. One day to approach, set up a camp, acclimatize and reconnoiter the route, then divides the Moon Goddess Arete (left of the gully) from Sunribbon Arete. Each gully feeds a permanent G one day to climb the route and return to the traillhead. snow field which usually coalesces into one large snow field, locally known as the Two Lobed Snow E Field, but in dry years can form two separate icy slopes. The Celestial Arete routes are accessed via S PERMITS AND REGULATIONS: these snow slopes. H north fork of big pine creek E R Overnight stays require a free WILDERNESS PERMIT. See page 261 for how to get one. W Temple Crag Summit I 12.999ft N Glacier Lodge Trailhead To Temple Crag 1 mile The Lon Chaney R Second © Rockfax 2004 Cabin Waterfall Ibrium O Big Pine Lakes Tower C Tyrolean K North Fork Traverse Big Pine Creek C First Tower R Wilderness Boundary 000ft First 8, Contact Tower E Glacier Pass E Lodge Right K First Facing First Lake Wilderness Area Waterfall Corners M 2 1 A trailhead M Second Lake M Third Lake O 3 T South Fork Big H Pine Creek 10,000ft3 6 miles from Two - Lobed 2 the trailhead Snow Field A 1 Temple Crag - Northeast Face L Temple Crag 4 P 1. Venusian Blind Arête 5.7 I 12,999ft 1. Venutian Blind 5.7 2. Moon Goddess Arête 5.8 N descent rappel 2. Moon Goddess Arete 5.8 3. Sun Ribbon Arête 5.9 3. Sun Ribbon Arete 5.9 4. Dark Star 5.10+ E Temple Crag Contact Pass Mount Alice BE AWARE: The top of the cliff is very foreshortened in this photograph. The top half of the routes shown are much longer than they I C appear. photo by Robert ‘SP’ Parker/ Todd Vogel E

265 Introduction Temple Crag - THEPALISADES

INITIAL APPROACH DESCRIPTION L O The initial approach to the base of Temple Crag can be made several ways depending on where you N camp. The shortest approach is via the south side of Second Lake but this involves quite a bit of sand E and talus. Still, this is probably the best way if you are just climbing a Temple Crag route and/or posi- tioning your camp as close as possible to the base of the Crag. If approaching from Second Lake you'll P follow the south side of the lake first on a trail then on talus to the base of a sandy moraine. Here you'll I N find faint trails ascending the sand and scree of the moraine (this is the moraine that descends from E Contact Pass). If heading just to the base to climb, as opposed to heading to find a camp, you'll follow these faint trails all the way up the moraine towards the aretes. (Late season Second Lake will be your B last water if you're heading directly to the Aretes).If you're heading to find a camp close to the base of I Temple Crag, as recommended above, you'll want to aim for an area where the top of the moraine Temple Crag S 12.999ft changes angle dramatically, about 400' gain above Second Lake. Contour towards the base of the Crag descent H O from this point to find the nice sandy camp areas mentioned above. If approaching from Third Lake you'll P cross the outlet to Third Lake on a log jam "bridge" (bad in periods of high run off; take the Second Lake approach then) and follow a faint trail around the south east side of the lake. This trail gains the top of O the small moraine about 200 feet after you leave the log crossing. Continue along the moraine top for a W few minutes but eventually you'll want to strike out across the moraine, aiming straight for the lowest E N point of Temple Crag (Dark Star Buttress). The moraine can be a slog but take heart as it's only fifteen or S twenty minutes to easier terrain. You'll see the occasional cairn as you traverse the moraine but there Ibrium really is no good way across this area. Eventually you'll reach the sandy camping area at the base of Tower R Dark Star, described above. I V Contact Pass tyrolean FINAL APPROACH DESCRIPTION E R Make sure you have identified the arete that is your objective before you even attempt the final First Tower descent G approach. It can be difficult to find the left aretes when you get up close; as with any big alpine route, First having a general sense of where the route goes before you get on it is important. Don't rely on the route Tower O R description for all of your route-finding. Take a good look at Temple Crag from the outlet side of Second 1 G Lake. The Celestial Aretes can be seen best in morning lighting and then again in the afternoon. 2 E Right TIP: Avoiding Crampon Use Facing S Corners H In warm weather it is usually possible to avoid the need for by hiking up to the snow fields the E afternoon before your climb and punching in a "stairs" while the snow is soft. The next morning things R will be firm, recommended, but if you did a good job with your steps the trail will be easy and 3 W crampons will be unnecessary. I N

TIP: Water R Running water can usually be found afternoons only just before where the approach heads up the snow 4 O field. It seems to "turn off" at night but will be running again by the time you come back down. C K

Temple Crag - Northeast Face C approach R 1. Venusian Blind Arête 5.7 2. Moon Goddess Arête 5.8 E 3. Sun Ribbon Arête 5.9 E 4. Dark Star 5.10+ K photo by Todd Vogel M A M M O T H

A L P I N E I C E The Tyrolean traverse on Sunribbon Arete. photo by Robert ‘SP’ Parker/ Todd Vogel 267 Venusian Blind Arete Temple Crag - THEPALISADES

Approach to the start of the route L O Both Moon Goddess and Venusian Aretes are approached via the left lobe of the two lobed snow field. 200' of 4th class to plateau N You can avoid the snow by climbing the steep rock band below the routes directly but this is not recom- E 80' .. 4th mended. Climb the snow slope heading for the point where one can easily left on a scree covered easy 5th 11 ledge. Generally this involves several hundred feet of moderate snow climbing. This ledge is a good P 4' gap place to transition to rock . The ledge quickly becomes third class as you scramble left to the toe of I Venusian Blind Arete 5.7 10 N flake 50' .. 4th Moon Goddess Arete and the start of fourth class climbing. For Venusian start heading left from the 5 150' .. 5.6 60' over to E Temple Crag (12,999 ft.) horizontal gap Moon Goddess approach at the point where the fourth class turns briefly back into third class. You'll a bit scary trend up and left for another 200', heading for a series of 40' to 60' tall right facing corners. The route FA. Don Jenson, S.Petroff, A.Walker; August, 1969. belay here then move 9 B bold 5.6 climb over tower then 30' starts at the highest of these, on the left side of a feature that is more a blunt buttress than an arete. I on left down climb to poor loose 5.5 on right 9a There is a minor true arete to the right of this feature that joins the buttress several hundred feet higher. S 9 300' more to top preferred side of arete peg anchor is It works to climb this, too, but it is quite loose and not recommended. H way hidden Belay here if you want to O gully escape to 20 mins. of 4th P 5.6 class top. Rap to gully. The Climbing block 60' rap crack on slab to gully The first pitch trends up and left via the left facing corner mentioned above. Many belays are possible O 100' .. 4th then 200’ of 5.6 4 but a good ledge with a natural anchor comes along 150' out. Two ways are apparent from here, the W nice pitch 4th/3rd friction E gully preferred trends slightly right on moderate ground, passing through a steep 5.7 handcrack which splits N up face the buttress higher up. A large ledgy belay caps the tough moves at the end of the pitch (watch for the S to right side of arete loose boulders as you move onto the ledge). The next pitch is short and reaches a horizontal section. To move belay 25' 5.7 tower avoid heinous drag belay short then move the belay to the end of the horizontal stretch. Pitch four R along ridge Gear list I mixed face no gear on Recognizing that any gear list is an opinion heads up directly from the notch and is 120' in length. Great with some cracks for protec- and crack V 60' .. 5.7 8 traverse and dictated as much by personal preference tion lead to a large but sloping stance with a block for the belay anchor. Variation: the face 30' to the left looks fun 8 as the terrain here's my "standard" alpine E 20' lower and rack. of the normal route is a nice but poorly protected alternate. nice face downclimb R 3 - 8 to 10 wireds from BD #3 to #12, no 3 110' .. 5.8 doubles notch 7 Pitch five has two route options: either way move left across a small gully and onto the right side of G move belay left boulder 140' .. 5.7 O - #'s 7-10 (really pretty useful and cheap what will become a sharp arete. The first option is to climb directly up the right side of the face, angling to notch to avoid 5th ledges R rope drag loose if you have to leave anything) slightly left to a small stance about 140' out (5.6). The other option is to continue moving left after short pitch 5.7 G 5.8 to horizontal stretch 4th obvious hand crack - .5, 1.0, 1.5, 2.0, 2.5 Optional if you crossing the gully, working around a small roof, through a steep area, and back right to join the first E don't regularly use them but recommended death option. Neither way is particularily well protected; the left option is better climbing and more solid. do not 150' .. 5.7 2 boulder belay 'diving board' - #1, #2 More in the 1-2 range if S touch flake you don't bring the hexes H 5.7 Perspective - 6 shoulder length runners each w/ 2 'biners Pitch six is fourth class except perhaps for the moves just off the belay. Stop the pitch below a steep 5.7 take the right crack E thin Change - 2 double shoulder length runners area with a prominent diving board flake. Pitch seven carefully avoids the diving board with some nice SIDE VIEW - 6 free 'biners R FIRST TOWER 6 140' .. 4th - 2 or 3 16'-20' cordelettes 5.7 thin moves then a short 5.7 hand crack with good (loose blocks at the top of the pitch). The W belay in alcove smooth Add for Venusian: belay is in a horizontal section with a nice ledge. Pitch eight is short, up a nice face, to another hori- I face minor arete - Micro : 3, 4 zontal stretch which is more technical than the last. It is suggested to stop the pitch short, bring up N that joins wide crack 1 horn - Camalot jr .5, .75 140' .. 5th Venusian 4th class - Camalot #3 followers, have them climb by and down to the next ledge. Downclimb to them, finally moving the belay R 5th all the way to the end of the horizontal right- narrow O gully easy 5th section, belay at a fixed pin at the start of loose Pitches 6 to 11 and the top C facing the next steep area. K corners To The Summit 40' .. 4th 0 Pitch nine climbs a steep face with some C Follow the plateau up hill until the final third class section. Some R 150' .. 3rd choose to rope up for this as it is quite exposed. Ten minutes of 5.7 (and a fixed pin) to the top of a tower. These right-facing scrambling lead to the summit. E corners landmark Moon Goddess Arete Options from this point: From near the top E the start of the Venusian slabs of the tower, climber's left (towards Mt. K route proper. They and Descent are marked on the Blind ledges Reverse your steps from the summit and follow faint trails down Alice) there is a rap anchor that allows one Temple Crag M 150' .. 3rd the talus and scree toward Mt. Alice. As the bottom of the slope easy access to the adjacent gully. Twenty photodiagram and is approached a small flat area is reached. (Usually a cairn here). A Find 'em from the For a technical short cut follow the climber's trail northeast, minutes of third class lead to the summit trail. Sun Ribbon Arete M gully towards Mt. Alice. This starts second class but becomes third plateau from the rappel. Or: downclimb 20' M class. Continue working your way right but stay on the Mt. Alice side of the ridge. Eventually the terrain forces you into an area off the tower and along the ridge to a poor O directly above Contact Pass, which you can see 150' below you belay. Cross a spot where four feet of the T 100' .. 4th steep H steep from this point. Continue scrambling down and you will find a rap horizontal ridge are "missing" (poor pro, anchor. There are two anchors here: one off of two ring angles is FACE ON TOPO arete the lesser of the two. The other is south of the pins about 20', exposed) and continue with 250' of fourth around the corner and sort of under a boulder. 80' rap leads to A 150' .. 3rd Contact Pass. Trail/boulders and snow lead to the moraine and class to the summit plateau. L slabs/ledges rock glacier. If there's good snow coverage the best route is to P © Todd Vegel of The traverse ledges follow snow gullies between Temple Crag and the rock glacier. If Escapes I Sierra Mountain SNOW FIELD snow coverage is poor or icy then avoid as much of the moraine N Center 2002 as possible by passing it on the right. Beware of rocks falling off Generally escape is made to the right. It is the face of the moraine, a common event, and off of Mt. Alice, E Pitches 1 to 5 not quite as common. not as easy to escape Venusian as it is start either up snow or rock © Rockfax 2004 Moon Goddess; for this reason if the I weather is questionable or other factors are C E extant Moon Goddess may be a better choice. Caption Caption Caption Caption. photo by Robert ‘SP’ Parker/ Todd Vogel 269 Moon Goddess Arete Temple Crag - THEPALISADES

Approach To The Route L O Moon Goddess is approached via the left lobe of the two lobed snow field. You might be tempted to THE TOP N avoid the snow by climbing the steep rock band below the routes directly but this is not recommended. E Moon Goddess Arete 5.8 70' .. 5.6 Climb the snow slope heading for the point where one can easily head left on a scree covered ledge. P 5.6 Generally this involves several hundred feet of moderate snow climbing. This ledge is a good place to Temple Crag (12,999 ft.) wide crack cracks transition to rock shoes. I on left side 19 150' .. 5.7 N Lower Section: FA. Don Jensen, J.Connors; July, 1960. exposed catwalk 20' rap E All: FA. Carl Dreisbach, Pat Armstrong; September, 1969 or lower 5.7 GEAR LIST The Climbing Recognizing that any gear list is 165' .. 5.6 17 an opinion and dictated as much The ledge quickly becomes third class as you scramble left to the toe of Moon Goddess Arete and the B block 80' by personal preference as the I 18 .. 4th terrain here's my "standard" alpine start of fourth class climbing. Continue out the ledge until you round an outside corner, the ledge great flakes rack. becomes three or four feet wide and fairly exposed at this point. Two hundred feet of fourth class, more S H - 8 to 10 wireds from BD #3 to #12, no doubles or less straight up, lead to temporarily easier ground and the start of Moon Goddess. From afar, and up a superb pitch 5.6 O - Hex #'s 7-10 close in certain light, it appears that Moon Goddess starts as two aretes that join about 500' from the P block - Tricam .5, 1.0, 1.5, 2.0, 2.5 Optional but recommended start of roped climbing. With this perspective the proper route is the left arete though not everyone sees this view. The true start has a faint gully to its left that becomes more incised the higher it goes. (This O 165' .. 5.6 16 - Camalot #1, #2 More in the 1-2 range if you don't bring the hexes W - 6 shoulder length runners each w/ 2 'biners gully serves as a good escape route if taken anytime prior to the ninth pitch). - 2 double shoulder length runners E gully - 6 free 'biners N IBRIUM TOWER can be split into - 2 or 3 16'-20' cordelettes The first six pitches are fairly straight forward, with minor variations here and there. In the event an S two piches north side Add for Moon Goddess: escape is needed it is usually easy to rap with one rope into the gully on the climber's left of the arete. 5.6 Micro Camalots: 3, 4 One rope raps lead back down the gully to the start of the climb. Two ropes would make the escape R Camalot jr .5, .75 east BEWARE procedure much more enjoyable. At the end of what is usually the sixth pitch the First Tower is reached. I loose V side This is passed on the right with an upward trending traverse (5.7). Don't be tempted to run this pitch all 80' .. 5.6 NO E 5.9 upper the way to the notch, as many before you have, heinous leader-paralizing rope drag will result. Instead, R variation 4th 15 quartz block base of the leader should trend high as he rounds the steep face, aiming for a small horn/tower above the notch. veins 80' .. 5.4 12 80' .. 5.7 5.5 IBRIUM TOWER It is easy to belay from here. Have the second stay low, below your stance and belay them directly to the G 14 O yellow lichen 5.6 notch. Rap or downclimb off the horn. corner step R FIRST TOWER G 80' .. 5.7 5.2 white quartz From the notch it is your last chance for easy down escape by rapping into the gully (past this point to 13 5.4 E flake traverse horizontally NOTCH 11 70' .. 4th 5.8 short pitches best 4th escape off the route it is best to go up and over). Next pitch: to avoid drag as you climb out of the notch: 9 10 S 5.7 60' .. 5.7 60' .. 4th climb the corner and belay short at the 80' .. 5.7 12 gully base of a chimney. For the short version of H descend 30' E base of 5.7 Moon Goddess continue up the chimney IBRIUM TOWER 4th 8 80' .. 4th R above, exiting to the left at the top of the W Pitches 12 to the top 150' .. 5.6 7 To The Summit chimney. A short rap leads into the gully but I N 5.6 Follow the plateau up hill until the final third instead of escaping down the gully four class section. Some choose to rope up for this pitches of fourth class lead to the summit as it is quite exposed. Ten minutes of R 170' .. 5.6 6 best climbing on arete scrambling lead to the summit. plateau. Done this way Moon Goddess has but easier on right side O arete 5.6 cracks + only 10' of 5.7 on it and is only 12 pitches flattens C flakes Descent long, most of which are fourth class. K 170' .. 5.6 5 Reverse your steps from the summit and follow beautiful sub arete faint trails down the talus and scree toward To the top: Climb the chimney mentioned C flowing 5.6 Mt. Alice. As the bottom of the slope is R climbing approached a small flat area is reached. above but exit right to a 20' long left facing E 150' .. 5.2 (Usually a cairn here). For a technical short corner (5.8). Belay on a boulder/ledge. You 4 Many other cut follow the climber's trail northeast, towards E 5.2 belays are Venusian Blind Mt. Alice. This starts second class but are now on what has been called the K 100' .. 5.2 gully possible becomes third class. Continue working your Ibrium Tower or the Second Tower. It 3 way right but stay on the Mt. Alice side of the M 5.2 takes three pitches to regain the arete. gully and ridge. Eventually the terrain forces you into A an area directly above Contact Pass, which topo grossly Sun Ribbon Arete Start by heading up and right to broken M 2 cracks you can see 150' below you from this point. foreshortened 160' .. 4th Continue scrambling down and you will find a ledges. Belay short to avoid drag. The next M here cross gully 4th rap anchor. There are two anchors here: one pitch is often missed, much to the paries O 150' .. 4th 1 off of two ring angles is the lesser of the two. T steep The other is south of the pins about 20', detriment: start by down climbing 25' to a steep H 4th wall To Sun Ribbon Arete around the corner and sort of under a boulder. sloping but easy ledge system. Follow this arete 80' rap leads to Contact Pass. Trail/boulders and snow lead to the moraine and rock glacier. for nearly a rope length to terraced small A left lobe If there's good snow coverage the best route ledges at the base of a crack/chimney L slabs/ledges is to follow snow gullies between Temple Crag traverse ledges and the rock glacier. If snow coverage is poor system that goes straight up. (Avoid the P TWO-LOBED or icy then avoid as much of the moraine as diagonalling cracks). 140' of sometimes I SNOW FIELD possible by passing it on the right. Beware of loose 5.7 regains the arete. Several short N rocks falling off the face of the moraine, a E common event, and off of Mt. Alice, not quite pitches, downclimbing, and a rappel lead to Pitches 1 to 12 start either up snow or rock as common. © Rockfax 2004 the summit plateau. By the time you unrope I on the plateau you'll have done 15 or so C pitches. E Caption Caption Caption Caption. photo by Robert ‘SP’ Parker/ Todd Vogel 271 Sun Ribbon Arete Temple Crag - THEPALISADES

Approach To The Route L O Sun Ribbon Arete 5.10a Sun Ribbon Arete is accessed via the gully that divides it from Moon Goddess Arete. In early season N ignore these slings steep snow is climbed up into the gully where a large ledge system (impossible to see until you're there) E Temple Crag (12,999 ft.) leads to the first 5.7 pitch of the route. Later season or in low snow years it is usually possible to climb FA. Don Jensen, John Fischer; September, 1969. the between the snow and the rock up to the first pitch, avoiding snow altogether. This negates the P Second Tower need for ice axe/crampons. In certain light it is possible to see the first pitch from afar; look to the right of I traverse on N south side the approach gully for an area of light colored rock that has darker, orange-ish rock to its right. All this is To The Summit of arete E 140' .. 4th 10 several hundred feet up and left from the toe of the Sunribbon Arete. The first pitch climbs strenuous 5.7 Final summit route 30' rap' cracks where the orange rock and the lighter rock meet in a huge (30') left-facing corner. Follow the plateau up hill slings notch B 3rd and 4th class 60' .. 4th 12 until the final third class 11 I section. Some choose to The Tyrolean Traverse 20' .. rap The Climbing S rope up for this as it is 9 Big Notch H quite exposed. Ten rap' to notch Find your way to the first 5.7 pitch. (There have been several direct starts done, they are in the 5.10 100' .. 5.7 8 20' lasso 20' .. lasso on west O minutes of scrambling range). This leads to several hundred feet of third class and the start of the first arete. The first five or lead to the summit. P up on right 4th and 5th class six pitches are straight forward, with many belay options and minor route finding decisions. Eventually side of crest 16 5.7 you'll find your self at the top of the first arete, looking at the Tyrolean Traverse. O 160' .. 4th 15 150' .. 5th W arete E the tyrolean N 4th class head left 7 150' .. arete While this can be avoided, why would you do that? How often do you get to do a tyrolean traverse in real S 14 60' .. 5.6 life? Plan this through the night before: a Tyrolean Traverse is a horizontal rappel. First challenge is R getting a loop of rope over the block on the other side of the span. Forget the lasso technique. The best I step on 5.6 method is to find one end of the rope, anchor it, feed about thirty feet from this end into a pile by your V to crest E arete right foot. Skip five or six feet and make a new pile of thirty or so feet on your left foot. Anchor this end 6 150' .. 5.6 near this point, too, just so loose rope doesn't go snaking off when you attempt a throw. Make sure both R belay on right piles are feeding from their tops. Hold the rope so the loop of five or six feet between the piles droops 80' .. 5.9 13 G down and almost touches your toes, each thirty foot pile is coiled loosely in a hand. Gauge wind direction O 5.6 on right hand and caffeination level, give it the old "one-two-three", throw each loop of rope at the same time, one from R side of arete 5.9 5.8 traverse rattly each hand, and you can probably do it in less than three tries. Rope across? Now you need to set up G several ways 5.7 E to go 5 140' .. 5.7 your horizontal rappel. Un-anchor the rope, pass it through the fixed rap anchor and tie it off in such a 5.9 outside way that a continuous loop is formed, tension it as best you can. I prefer to take the end of the rope, tie a S Po ssible 3"crack hands corner bight, clip a 'biner, pass the other side of the rope through this, make a munter, tension, tie it off with a 5.7 on arete Escape H (upish) 5.9 knot. There are other systems that will work. Cross the span. A friction knot might be helpful getting E 5.10a up the other side if you weren't able to make your ropes really tight. Once across you can make a real R 5.9+ corner 4 130' .. 5.7 12 anchor or just leave what you have. Whatever you do you'll want to see if you can circulate the rope in W Big Notch I the system and get the knot side back across. Otherwise your partner should undo it and you'll re-rig on N Bivvy Ledge 5.7 cracks your side of the span. face on arete 12 Pitches 12 to 16 R O First Tower Gear list Back on the route: easy ground to the next small tower. You can pass this on either side. The fastest Recognizing that any gear list is an opinion and dictated as much by way is to get to the first of the two small towers and rap climber's right 25'. A rap station is usually found C 3 130' .. 4th personal preference as the terrain here's my "standard" alpine rack. K - 8 to 10 wireds from BD #3 to #12, no doubles on the first tower for this purpose but it seems to come and go (and there's one that you'll not be using 4th class - Hex #'s 7-10 (really pretty usefu) on the top of the next small tower, 20' away). So rap those 25' to the right and lead a short pitch hori- - Tricam .5, 1.0, 1.5, 2.0, 2.5 Optional if you don't regularly use them but C recommended zontal and around the corner to the base of the crux pitch. R - Camalot #1, #2 More in the 1-2 range if you don't bring the hexes E 2 165' .. 3rd - 6 shoulder length runners each w/ 2 'biners - 2 double shoulder length runners Possible escape: from the end of this horizontal section it is easy to do a diagonalling rappel left into the E 3rd class - 6 free 'biners K - 2 or 3 16'-20' cordelettes gully. 45 minutes of fourth class lead to the summit plateau. M Add for Sun Ribbon: 140' .. 5.7 1 Micro Camalots: 1,2, 3, 4 Crux pitch: There are several ways that all meet about 100' above the notch that starts the pitch. One A Camalot jr .5, .75 way heads left from the belay to a 5.9+ handcrack with an off route . After the crack, rattley crack M Camalot #3 chimey .. 5.8 M gray second camalot #1, #2 20 climbing leads to the belay stance straight up. Or: head out right from the belay past two fixed pins. A O Moon Goddess patch Two more shoulder length slings, each w/ 2 biners. 5.9+ face move gets you into a nice 5.9 hand crack. Loose 5.8 cracks and blocks lead to a good stance Arete 5.7 T Sun Ribbon Arete TO THE (same stance as other way). The belay at the end of this pitch is pretty much straight above the belay at H 3" wide TOP 5.8 the start of the pitch. If you go the right (as opposed to the left) way you can pull your rope up, drop it, downclimb big ledge haul packs, drop it, and safely belay the second. This doesn't work as well the left way. Four more A 160' .. 5th escape left 19 4th and 5th class 17 L gully loose pitches of straighforward climbing lead to a rappel. From the rap six or eight pitches lead to the top, with 40" rap P some 5.7. I corner on right hand side N Escape E Snow Field 16 18 (100' to 400') 150' .. 5th 40' .. rap It is easy to continue the rap another twenty feet into the gully to the left of the route. Twenty minutes of I notch Pitches 1 to 12 Pitches 16 to 20 scrambling lead to the summit plateau. By the time you get to this point you've done the C best climbing on the route. E

273 Introduction The Swiss Arete Of Mount Sill -THEPALISADES

Mount Sill is an impressive mountain, its cuboid mass looks large even from Highway 395. The original L Approach to Mount Sill 1 inhabitants of the Eastern Sierra called it “Ninamishi” or Guardian Of The Valley and it is clear why once O you have viewed it from the . Even close up, although its summit is lower than some of the N Glacier Trail E neighboring 14,000ft peaks, it still looks the tallest. The first technical climb up Mount Sill was the “Starr Route” climbed by ?????? in (first actual ascent), this the descent route if you are doing any of the P Sam Mack Second “modern’ routes on Mount Sill. Mount Meadow Third Lake Lake I Robinson 10,400ft 6 miles from N 12,967ft Glacier Lodge First ascent details... E trail turns to B The Swiss Arete up of Mount Sill is a classic mountaineering challenge. You will enjoy a Mount Agassiz talus hopping I 13,893ft Sam Mack beautiful hike, a glacial experience, will have to cope with high-altitude and then you will be one with the Lake Temple 1. On the glacier trail beyond Sam Mack Crag S rocky ridge of the Palisades that contain seven of the fifteen 14,000ft peaks in California. Good rock and Meadow en route to Mount Sill. H moraine 12,999ft an exceptional summit experience with great views are the icing on the cake. O 12,165ft P 2 The approach from the trailhead is 10 miles (a round trip of 20 miles) with a total elevation gain of 6,353- Thunderbolt glacier lake O Glacier Mount feet, of which 1,000-foot is 4th and easy 5th class with a obligatory moves of 5.6 and 5.7 at loose cliff Gayely W Mount MOVE QUICKLY the distinct crux. The ability to climb long sections of 4th and 5th class and being able to move over Winchell 13,510ft E Pa lisade Glacier Notch N sometimes loose 3rd class terrain solo is required. Wherever you start your summit attempt from be 13,775ft Glacier 13,100ft L-shaped S prepared for a big day out. 10 miles from snowfield Thunderbolt Peak Glacier Lodge 14,003ft R WHERE Starlight Peak Sill Glacier I 14,200ft Mount V Mount Sill is a 14,162-foot peak that spilts the Palisade Crest, located west of Big Pine and approached North Palisade Sill 14,242ft 14,153ft E from the Glacier Lodge trailhead via the north fork of Big Pine creek. The base of the Swiss Arete route R is 10 miles stiff hike from the trailhead. Polemonium Peak © Rockfax 2004 14,080ft G Mount Jepson O WHEN 1 mile 13,390ft R The north fork of Big Pine Creek is usually free of snow from early June onwards to the first winter G snows in October. Depending on the there may still be much snow around the Palisade Glacier and CAMPING - sam mack meadow 2. The glaciated slabs before you start the E on the descent down the L-shaped snow field of the Starr Route of Mount Sill. It is wise to bring instep traverse along the base of Mount Gayely and Sam Mack Meadow is the camping spot of choice for the Swiss the traverse up ledges to Glacier Notch. S crampons and an axe at any time of year. arete being only three miles and 3,000-feet of elevation from the H summit of Mount Sill. To get there continue on the Big Pine Lakes E STRATEGY trail until past Third Lake where a sharp left turn up through talus 3 R leads to this sheltered canyon. Please pack your poop and any W With an early start fast and competant parties can climb the Swiss Arete in a day from the Glacier Lodge I trailhead. Most, however, especially if coming from low elevations, prefer to spread the adventure over other waste out with you, sanitation is a serious issue here. Bear N two or three days. One day to approach, set up a camp, acclimatize and reconnoiter the route, then one cannisters are obligatory. day to climb the route and return to the traillhead. The best places to camp for the Swiss Arete are at R Sam Mack meadow or at several bivvy spots near the Palisade Glacier, especially near Mount Gayely. Approach to the start of the route from sam O C mack meadow K PERMITS AND REGULATIONS: From Sam Mack Meadow take a sharp left across the stream and head up a winding trail (the Glacier trail) through stunted pines C north fork of big pine creek R and small cliffs. The trail starts to traverse left and eventually hits Overnight stays require a free WILDERNESS PERMIT. See page 261 for how to get one. E a loose boulder moraine. There are several lines of cairns leading 3. Approaching Glacier Notch from the E through the boulders all of which emerge onto superb glaciated traverse along Mount Gayely The ledges up to K slabs. Follow the slabs upwards following numerous cairns to a the notch can be loose and route finding tricky. Some may want to rope up. M point overlooking the glacier and below the north face of Mount A Gayley. This point is marked by numerous bivy sites. M M The next section traverses boulders and loose scree to Glacier 4 O Notch (not a good place to eat your lunch!). Cross large boulders T H and then loose scree for a few 100 yards before heading diago- nally up left towards an obvious weakening in the ridge on the A left. There are several different routes up to Glacier Notch. Start L by ascending some right to left ramps and then traverse back left P over loose 4th class terrain and eventually up to the Notch. Care I is need on this section and some people may want to make a N E short rap on the return trip (no fixed anchors). I You get a superb view of the whole route from Glacier Notch. If C you are feeling confident leave you gear here and ascend diago- E nally across scree to the base of the route. 4. From Glacier Notch approaching the base of the route 275 The Swiss Arete Mount Sill - THEPALISADES

North Palisade L 14,242ft Starlight Peak The Swiss Arete III 5.8 of Mount Sill Mount Sill 14,200ft O Po lemonium Peak N 14,080ft Thunderbolt 14,162 ft descent Peak E FA: Spencer Austin, Ruth Dyar, Ray Ingwersen, 2nd/3rd class 14,003ft Richard Jones and Joe Momyer: July 1938 4 scarmbling on the crux left of the ridge P 5th class I 3 N E top of crux emerge Apex V - Notch 2 5.7 here Peak B I S 5th class seesee descent descent diagramdiagram H 1 5 O P saddle O 4th/5th class W E big corner N S 1 4 R rappel Fourth class ridge climbing, low down on the route. The crux can Boulderer Bob Banks on top of his world, the summit of Mount I V L-shaped be seen high above near a large smooth block. Sill after climbing the Swiss Arete. E Snowfield The Descent R 13.300 ft The Swiss THE CRUX easy Descend 3rd class ground down the SW ridge for 200 - Arete 300' to a point where it starts to ease in angle and there G He should be O wearing a is a small notch marked by a substantial cairn. From the helmet! cairn down climb steep 4th class ground for 70' then R 5.7 start to trend right across ledges. There is a fixed rap G hand E crack point here that might be needed early in the season or if #2/3 you are felling a bit gripped. There seems to be a line of big ledge cams S (possible descent down left but this is NOT the way to go. Climb belay) H up a few feet to a saddle between Apex Peak and Sill E tricky exposed and you will see an easier angled chute leading down to R step- around the base of the route. to the left of the snow and to ledge using W The East Face a good crack zigzag down through loose boulders. At the bottom of I (excellent the chute you will probably need to make one rap N III 5.8 2 protection #2/3 cams) depending on snow conditions. There are at least 2 rap points. Head back across scree to Glacier Notch R approach from Glacier Notch O C 2 - 300ft THE DESCENT K of 2nd/3rd class C EQUIPMENT cairn R Mt.Sill Rack: Standard alpine rack: one set of stoppers (Rocks 1 to 8), Cams #1 to #3, long slings (if it is a big snow year or summit small bowl E early in the season take an ice axe/instep crampons for the descent) traverse E ledges then K rope down north The Route climb up for up NO a few feet saddle coulouir M There is around 800ft of climbing to the summit from the start of the route. Much of the climbing is 4th and 5th class on to the A generally excellent rock.There are many ledges for belays. You can run a rope length out and belay, as there are many saddle M belay opportunities. Some may prefer to move roped together on the easier ground and belay for the steeper technical carefully down talus M sections. The route starts up slabs to join the arete/ridge proper. There are several alternatives here. One option is and boulders staying O marked on the photo-topo and is described here. to the left of the T snowfield H

Easy 3rd class slabs lead up left for 200' to a point overlooking a big corner (marked above). Head up steeper 4th and Swiss Arete various rappel 5th class ground following cracks to emerge on the ridge crest at a flat area. Easy climbing along the ridge leads to a slings and A point at which it steepens. Now follow beautifully solid 5th class cracks and flakes up the crest for a couple of pitches opportunities L until the way is blocked by a steep smooth wall. P snowfield I (size varies) The next section is the crux (see topo). Make an airy step right into a corner (good crack) and up to a sloping ledge, N possible belay. Climb a steep crack in the corner or on the right wall to easier ground. This whole section is about 70’. E After the crux, romp up fantastic 4th/5th class ground (many ways to go) to emerge at the summit! 3 5 approach I Climbing after the crux: good rock, good gear, easy 5th class to C the summit. There are several ways to go. E

277 U and V - Notch The Couloirs - THEPALISADES

Mount L O Sill North Starlight 14,162ft Thunderbolt N Po lemonium Palisade Peak E 14,242ft 14,200ft Peak Peak 14,003ft descent 14,200ft P I N L-shaped Apex E snowfield Pe a k B Glacier I Notch S bergschrund H V-NOTCH U-NOTCH O P Palisade Glacier Thunderbolt O Glacier W to/from Gayley bivvy sites and Sam Mack Meadow E N S “Even in California we can have weather. Even in August a climber can freeze to death. It's no joke. We need to be prepared.” R Craig Harris (Dingus Milktoast) reflecting on an epic summer ascent of V-Notch that included a snow storm and freezing winds. I Two of the most sought after technical couloirs in the Sierra, U-Notch and V-Notch lie above the Palisade V E galcier. The U - Notch is perhaps the North Palisade's most popular route as it climbs up to the attractive Caption Caption Caption Caption. photo by Robert ‘SP’ Parker/ Todd Vogel R notch on the ridge dividing Polemonium Peak and the tallest route in the range, North Palisade which was first climbed by Norman Clyde in 1928. The U-Notch Couloir is a 700-foot, 40 degree slope and APPROACH G O although moderate does require competant skills including overcoming a bergschrund which See the approaches to Sam Mack Meadow and the Palisade Glacier on page 267. Most parties contour is regarded as the crux of the climb. The neighbouring V-Notch couloir involves around 900' of ice R around south toward Mount Gayley and then right (northwest) across the glacier to U and V - Notch. G climbing of 40 to 60 degrees and is usually about 90% ice offering more technical and sustained difficul- Beware of and wear glacier goggles. E ties than its easier angled neighbor. V - Notch was first ascended in ice conditions by Yvon Chouinard and Doug Robinson in October of 1970. Both routes require rock protection as well as a handful of ice S screws. U - NOTCH TO NORTH PALISADE H The bergschrund at the base of the U - Notch is often the crux of the climb, especially during E WHEN R years. If the bergschrund is open, climb the easy class 5 rock to the right of it. Once in the couloir climb W U and V - Notch are usually climbed in late summer and fall when there is a good chance of neve and several pitches, keeping left at the rocks to the notch at the top of this chute. Protection can be rigged in I ice, rather than post-holing through early season snow. the gully as well as on the snow slope. Once you reach the top of the chute there is a N chimney/dihedral on your right, rated 5.4. Climb the chimney to the summit ridge, dropping into a small bowl briefly and then up boulders to the exposed summit of North Palisade. The traverse to the summit R STRATEGY O Most parties make a base camp at either can be tricky especially early season if there are patches of snow around, and it is surprisingly longer C Sam Mack Meadow or bivy near the than most expect. K glacier below Mount Gayley and get an Descent C early start, to hopefully avoid any stone R fall, and return to camp the same day. Descend the summit ridge back to the top of the chimney where there should be rappel slings. Rap down E the chimney, two rappels back to the top of U - Notch. You can either down climb the U - Notch or E Special Equipment rappel. Many prefer to downclimb if the snow in the gully is good as it is relatively straightforward and a K lot quicker (and warmer) than rappelling. If you do rappel there are plenty of rappel slings at intervals M As always come prepared for inclement down the chute, but beware of getting your rope stuck. weather. It can snow in August. Bring A M crampons and two axes, your standard V - NOTCH TO POLEMONIUM PEAK M alpine rack to 3” (bring some extra O slings) and four or five ice screws. Don’t Again the bergschrund is thought to be the crux of the climb and most take it slightly left of center. It can T forget glacier goggles and sun block. You be steep. Look for snow bridges and be prepared to climb several feet of near vertical neve or ice. H can get away with one axe on U - Notch Follow the left side of couloir for first 4 pitches, then cross to the right side to the top. Pitches 3-5 are early in the season, but later when this definitely exposed to rock fall. There are around 8 pitches in total. Protection and belays are ice screws A supplemented by rock gear where you can. Scramble up the ridge to the summit of Polemonium Peak. L chute is mainly ice bring two. P Descent I PERMITS AND REGULATIONS: N Unless you are forced to by bad weather or an emergency it is not recommended that you descend the E north fork of big pine creek way you came as the anchors are poor. The descent from the V - Notch involves traversing the crest of I Overnight stays require a free WILDER- Polemonium Peak toward Mount Sill. Once near Mount Sill descend to the notch behind Apex Peak and C NESS PERMIT. See page 261 . the L-Shaped snowfield next to Mt. Sill which can either be mostly rock or snow depending on the year. E Caption Caption Caption Caption. photo by Robert ‘SP’ Parker/ Todd Vogel There are rappel opportunities if needed. See the Sill descent on page 277. 279