Pure Polish NEW YORK — There’S a Chic Revival Going on in the City

NATALIA’S PLEA/4 BIG PUSH FOR LAMBERTSON TRUEX/20 WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’TUESDAY Daily Newspaper • February 6, 2007 • $2.00 Ready-to-Wear/Textiles Pure Polish NEW YORK — There’s a chic revival going on in the city. Just that was illustrated on the runways of Oscar de la Renta, Carolina Herrera and Tuleh, where looks were downright clean and elegant. Here, de la Renta’s muskrat-trimmed cardigan, pleated blouse, wool pants and metallic python bag. For more, see pages 6 to 13.

A Makeover for L&T: NRDC Hires Agencies To Relaunch Retailer

By David Moin NEW YORK — Lord & Taylor is getting a facelift. After decades of being starved for capital and appearing antiquated, the company has hired a string of high- profile creative agencies and store designers to develop a new fall-holiday branding campaign, renovate its locations and highlight merchandise changes that have been ongoing for four years and are now being accelerated, WWD has learned. Joining forces with Lord & Taylor will be advertising guru David Lipman, who has created campaigns for David See Lord & Taylor, Page 17 PHOTO BY ROBERT MITRA ROBERT PHOTO BY

4 WWD, TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 6, 2007 WWD.COM At CFDA Health Panel, a Model’s Story By Marc Karimzadeh Vodianova, who is the face of Calvin Klein, charted her course from her poor upbringing in WWDTUESDAY NEW YORK — All the experts in the world couldn’t Russia, where she viewed food as a necessity rath- Ready-to-Wear/Textiles have crystallized the controversy of fashion’s role er than an extravagance. Her weight was never in eating disorders better than model Natalia something she obsessed about until she arrived in FASHION Vodianova. Paris in 2000 to model. Oscar de la Renta and Carolina Herrera sent out strong collections that At Monday’s Council of Fashion Designers “I was meeting other models and our conversa- 6 emphasized luxe sportswear attitude, as the New York shows played on. of America health initiative panel discussion, tions, more often than not, revolved around diet, Vodianova was responsible for the most revealing gym and weight, which was then totally alien to me,” and touching moments, offering insights into the she recalled. “At fi rst, I kind of sneered, thinking this GENERAL psychological impact being a model can have. would never affect me, but as I began working, mod- Lord & Taylor has forged partnerships with creative agencies and store “Oscar Wilde once said that to love oneself is the eling and trying on clothes, I began to pay attention 1 designers in a drive to reposition itself since turning private last year. beginning of a lifelong romance,” she told the audi- to my body shape for the fi rst time and to compare All the experts in the world couldn’t have crystallized the controversy of ence of health experts, designers and editors. “But I myself to other models.” fashion’s role in eating disorders better than model Natalia Vodianova. hope you would agree with me that no relationship The pressures of the industry, though, really start- 4 comes that easy. Perhaps the trick- ed to kick in when she began EYE: With her new headquarters not quite ready, Diane von Furstenberg’s iest and most complex relation- Natalia doing runway shows two years 14 entourage stuffed into Indochine to celebrate her latest collection. Vodianova ship is the one between you and later, and her schedule became Luxury accessories fi rm Lambertson Truex, acquired by Samsonite in yourself, your body and your mind. so hectic that eating became July, is set to open its fi rst freestanding stores to an elite clientele. Sometimes it’s even possible to be secondary. At age 19, Vodianova 20 crueler to yourself than you would gave birth to her son, Lucas, and The $2.9 trillion federal budget the president sent to Congress includes be to your worst enemy.” afterward weighed 117 pounds, 24 funding increases and cuts in trade, labor and port security programs.

Designers like Donna Karan, STEVE EICHNER PHOTO BY less than before pregnancy. TEXTILES: Italian textile mills are focusing on producing higher-quality Gilles Mendel, Tory Burch, Reed She was catapulted to the top Krakoff, Daniel Silver of Duckie of her game. The stress took its 26 fabrics such as jersey as they head into next week’s Milano Unica show. Brown, Carlos Falchi and Stan toll. When Vodianova’s weight London Preview is included as a Section II in this issue. Herman came to the Bryant Park dropped down to 106 pounds, Classifi ed Advertisements...... 30-31 tents to hear the CFDA’s strategy her hair started thinning and in the fi ght against eating disor- she was always nervous and To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. ders. In addition to guidelines overly sensitive, a doctor friend [email protected], using the individual’s name. for designers’ use of models pro- intervened. WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT posed late last month, the panel “The next season, I got ©2007 FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. — which consisted of Renfrew healthy again, but when I re- VOLUME 193, NO. 28. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in January and November, two additional issues in March, May, June, August and December, and three Center’s Susan Ice, KCD’s Nian turned to work, my weight was additional issues in February, April, September and October) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of Advance Fish, trainer David Kirsch and questioned,” she said. “Some Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Bellando, Executive nutritionist Joy Bauer — dis- fashion houses called my agen- Vice President/COO; Debi Chirichella Sabino, Senior Vice President/CFO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human closed it was planning several cy complaining that I was two Resources. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offi ces. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return seminars in the next 12 months to centimeters over [in measure- undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 POSTMASTER: educate the industry. ments]. I was extremely upset SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615–5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE Some audience members from the health fi eld since I felt very healthy and good about myself. I INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit expressed their disappointment that the guidelines defended myself, saying it was crazy to consider www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production didn’t go far enough, and Karan raised the heat a measurements like 33-27-34 to be normal and not to correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, little when she suggested the modeling agencies expect some change. please call 212-630-4274 or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list shouldn’t be sending models to castings if they are “It makes me think that if I had been weak at available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you too young or show signs of an eating disorder. the time, I could really have endangered myself,” do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615- “It is important that we project health as part of she continued. “At any age we can handle success, 5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, beauty and do not encourage unhealthy behaviors,” but at what age can we handle failure?” One of the BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED said CFDA president Diane von Furstenberg. “The guidelines suggests designers should not hire mod- MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR fashion industry cannot take the blame for eating els under 16. DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY disorder diseases, but by being aware and sensitive David Kirsch, owner of Madison Square Club, A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. to it, we can change a lot of things a Manhattan fi tness center, recounted his per- sonal experience with eating disorders, having had two sis- ters who suffered from bulimia In Brief and anorexia. “I see body image at the heart of this disease, and how these girls perceive them- ● NEW DIESEL DIGS: Diesel has signed a lease for its first West selves, and as importantly, how Coast flagship. The 3,500-square-foot space is located at 8401 they think other people perceive Melrose Place in West Hollywood and is scheduled to open in April. them,” he said. The lease also includes use of the second-floor roof space, plans for Ice outlined the subjects of which Diesel has yet to reveal. “We’re pleased to be able to create a the upcoming seminars. “We will never-before-seen Diesel retail environment that will draw inspira- talk a lot about the demograph- tion from the incredible energy of Los Angeles,” said Renzo Rosso, ics of eating disorders,” she president and founder, in a statement. The company also said it will said. “Unfortunately, there are continue to operate its existing store at Beverly Center. those who would simplify the problem and the illness around ● SEARS’ BIG CHARGE: Sears Holding Corp. said on Monday that body weight, when we know that it will take a $73.5 million pretax, fourth-quarter charge in connec- body weight alone, or BMI alone, tion with a verdict requiring payment of the same amount issued is not really the only indicator of on Friday by a Texas state court jury in Dallas. The verdict requires an eating disorder.” a Sears subsidiary to pay a group of institutional bondholders in Nutritionist Bauer, who hopes connection with the redemption of certain bonds. Sears also said to educate models about healthy it intends to appeal the Dallas state court verdict. The lawsuit per- eating at the seminars, echoed tained to the redemption of certain bonds in 2004 following Sears, the sentiment, adding that BMI Roebuck’s sale of its credit card business. The bondholder group can be misguided, as some mod- includes J.P. Morgan Securities and subsidiaries of American els may genetically have low BMIs International Group Inc., according to Sears. The retailer said it and be perfectly healthy, and oth- expects to report fourth-quarter earnings on March 1. The pretax ers who have normal BMIs could charge of $73.5 million will reduce aftertax earnings by $44 million, be struggling with eating disor- or 29 cents a diluted share, the company said. Sears said the charge ders. “We also don’t think that it’s was not included in the retailer’s previous guidance. realistic or effective to start regu- larly weighing the models,” she said. “In fact, the pressure to get weighed may cause more weight anxiety and preoccupation, and Corrections could, in fact, result in more dis- Cate Blanchett wore Fred Leighton jewelry to the SAG Awards. ordered behavior.” This was omitted from a caption on page 4, Jan. 30. Fish, meanwhile, raised a red ● ● ● fl ag at those who feel the CFDA The last names of Roberta Myers, editor in chief of Elle, and or the health committee should Susan Schulz, editor in chief of CosmoGIRL, were misspelled impose rules on designers. “This in a story on page 9, Jan. 30. is their aesthetic choice. What ● ● ● we are taking on is to create a The dress Sienna Miller wore to the “Factory Girl” premiere last structure inside the current thin Monday night was vintage from Doris Ray of The Way We Wore. aesthetic that educates and pro- The dress was incorrectly credited in a Fashion Scoop on page motes the concept of a natural 10, Wednesday. healthy thin.”

6 WWD, TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 6, 2007 Escape From Madcap

old the irony, please. And Oscar de la Renta Tuleh the pilings of stuff. And the cute-young-ones- only madcap costumery that has so tickled our fancy in recent seasons. New York has gone blatantly, unapologetically, refreshingly chic. That’s chic in NEW the traditional sense of the word, Hin which elegance is an essential part of the equation, even for the YORK youngest end of the spectrum. In fact, no less a master of all things fall undone, twisted and manipulated than Marc Jacobs took a 180- ’07 degree turn for the collection he showed Monday night. “It’s all precise shapes, simple, clean and polished,” he said, adding “no layers,” in an obvious reference to his more- is-more mantra of the last few seasons. Jacobs said the time just felt right for a change, and even noted his approach to his casting. When one girl, the elfi n Cecilia Mendez, showed up in a black V-neck sweater with jeans accessorized only with a pretty pendant and a gold watch, she stood out. “I’m so over seeing girls in superhero getups with tutus,” he said. He has plenty of company. Though they’ve never designed for the tutu set, both Oscar de la Renta and Carolina Herrera have, at times, experimented with varying levels of artsy, boho embellishment, and on Monday, both sent out strong collections that emphasized a luxe sportswear attitude. And Tuleh’s Bryan Bradley still played to the iconic Vassar girl of yester- runway, but this time held the jokes. In each case, the designer showed a hankering for classics, sometimes as basic as a great blouse-and-pants pairing, and a deft knowledge of how such seemingly simple fare can skirt the mundane. De la Renta’s collection was, in a word, dazzling, and not only in its well-controlled embroideries. It shone as well in its security; its grounded, cross-generational appeal and its fabulous expression of sporty luxe. The clothes ranged from the utterly understated to those which, had they not been so cleverly rendered, could easily have veered toward ostentatious. On the simple side, de la Renta showed any number of divinely unfettered dresses in double wool crepe and chill- chasing tweeds — a sweet houndstooth dress fl ecked with glitter; the simplest charcoal skirt under a little sweater. When he upped the extras, he did so with restraint. Fur — and it’s everywhere again — was as likely to show up in a big, fl oppy hat or a border on a cocktail dress as in an au sauvage coyote vest and mukluks or a hand-woven mink tweed coat. And even when he gave in to such extravagance, de WWD, TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 6, 2007 7 WWD.COM

Oscar Carolina Herrera la Renta’s cozy earthen palette de la Renta kept the looks grounded. Though he deviated from those inviting neutrals with a few gorgeous, vibrant brocades, for the most part, he stayed relatively quiet even at night, decking simple shapes with sparkle. He outlined the neckline of a navy silk velvet column in crystals, and embroidered paillettes onto a graceful anthracite organza gown. And in his hands, the ballerina found new sophistication in layers of smoky gray tulle under a chinchilla bolero. Herrera said she was inspired by an Edvard Munch portrait of Hans Jaeger and by Horst’s Oscar book of interiors. “Not just the de la Renta way the women dressed,” she said, “but the way everything was effortlessly elegant, with little touches of embellishment.” To wit, Herrera captured the mood to near perfection in a collection that delivered considerable decoration with considerable understatement. Its Carolina success lay in the tempering of Herrera the designer’s artsier leanings. Here, she favored easier shapes, often rendered in sturdy fabrics for control and that essential sportif air. She cut geometric designs into sturdy wool felt dresses and tops or spiffed up an understated gray wool dress with ivory satin appliqués. And she offered some fabrics with visual pop, as in a brown and blue dot motif. Herrera, too, loves her fur. She showed it oh-so-casually in a muskrat tunic over an engineered plaid skirt and in big, wonderfully cozy scarves with pockets — a terrifi c jacket substitute for the not-too-cold days of autumn — worn over a skirt or pants in a dusty lilac plaid. For evening, she sought alternatives to traditional beaded decoration — rows of girlish looped ribbon defi ning a blue taffeta dress; a black tulle overlay veiling a dotted gown. And she found a delightful Carolina print, a gentle purple-and-black Herrera raindrop affair, for a dress as Tuleh Tuleh gentle as a spring shower. While in seasons past, Bryan Bradley has mused on such heady inspirations as “Western entropy,” he went for something a little more accessible for fall: “The Tuleh girl is in love and getting married. No irony,” he said preshow. What followed was an unabashed celebration of delightful prettiness and femininity that was hard not to, pardon us, love. “In my mind they’re classic American clothes,” he said, which meant there was plenty for the tony type with a downtown sensibility and a healthy sense of humor. For instance, she wouldn’t wear an evening dress under that exquisite embroidered and sequined teal coat, lined in dyed-to-match mink. She prefers a heart intarsia cardigan and the skinniest pants around. The hearts, in fact, were hard to miss — as copper paillettes caught up in a lacy jacket and dotting a lovely printed coat — and were a cheerful manifestation of the designer’s mood. He wanted his girls to look as good as they felt, and they did, in polished, supertrim suits and some great furs that dominated day and evening’s fl irty ruched chiffons, shiny jacquards and gauzy laces. And, as if to hammer home the point, Bradley ended the show with that most hopeful of girls:

PHOTOS BY JOHN AQUINO, GEORGE CHINSEE AND GIOVANNI GIANNONI GEORGE CHINSEE AND GIOVANNI JOHN AQUINO, PHOTOS BY the beautiful bride. 8 WWD, TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 6, 2007 Isaac Mizrahi Theme Weave Isaac Mizrahi 3.1 Phillip Lim

Luella

NEW YORK fall’07 WWD, TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 6, 2007 9 WWD.COM

Luca Luca

Little Edie Beale, St. Moritz nights and Sgt. Pepper were just a few of the inspirations ers channeled on the recent runways. 3.1 Phillip Lim Luca Luca

Isaac Mizrahi: Isaac Mizrahi is still a cockeyed optimist. He returned to the runway on Monday with a collection that radiated joie du mode, just like in the old days, when, as a chubby 26-year-old, he took New York fashion by gleeful storm with notions about notice-me sportswear, day-for-night crossover and color, color, color. The collection Mizrahi showed on Monday left no doubt that he still holds many of the same positions. Only now he renders them with greater sophistication, but not so much that it gets in the way of a good time. A favorite shape: the structured A-line, which he worked to a fare-thee-well in charming dresses with peekaboo corsets and fur hems. Elsewhere, he revived the sporty-at-night motif with au courant looks inspired by his own archive — an off-the-shoulder stretch of sweatshirt, gray with jeweled cuffs, and, long a favorite of his, the white cotton tank, now forming the bodice of a feathery, bejeweled dream. As for Mizrahi’s renowned color sense, he indulged in a couple of melon getups that only a cantaloupe could love. But when huge, vibrant fl owers blossomed against a bright white gown, the picture was rosy indeed.

3.1 Phillip Lim: Phillip Lim sure has been busy — working on his new men’s wear collection, collaborating with Nars on a beauty line and, most recently, signing a lease for his first freestanding store, slated to open here in June. He has also been putting the finishing touches on his stellar women’s presentation, full of his vision of American sportswear: easy, layered and effortlessly cool. Inspired by Little Edie Street Beale, though not literally, he sent out graceful, fluid cocktail dresses, not too loose, not too tight, and rendered daywear in unfussy lines with just a hint of button or pintucking details. However, Lim fans may have a problem choosing a coat this season, because they were all great: a Chic and black leather bomber, the collarless trench, a reworked red lumberjack number. Need we go on?

Luca Luca: Skiwear was the inspiration behind Luca Orlandi’s fall Slouchy collection, and boy, did he focus on the theme. He took his luxe ladies from the slopes well into the St. Moritz evenings, starting with a series of NEW YORK — It’s not just snow-bunny looks — sporty quilted pants, a gem-encrusted puffer and a about the runway this week. pair of mink shorts — all accessorized with goggles, and all in white. The Armani Collezioni gave WWD icy palette didn’t stop there. Silver, gray, pale blue and lots of shimmer a glimpse of its fall collection, appeared on elegant gowns, skinny pants and suits that were sported which is being shown to buy- up with zippers. While at times the ice-queen theme was a bit chilling ers throughout this week. For (any takers on that skin-tight jumpsuit?), there were moments of cold- daywear, looks were youthful mountain chic in the furs, especially that swingy mink caplet. and street-chic, as demonstrat- ed in a fl ared patent-leather Luella: For fall, Luella Bartley took her audience on a romp through motorcycle jacket. Knits and her own backyard. “It’s English all the way,” she said. And, indeed, outerwear went in a slouchy, from the fi rst look, a bright red hunting coat, to the Sgt. Pepper getups often oversize direction, while and debutante frocks that followed, the collection was much ado about suit jackets featured inter- blue bloods and the Union Jack — done up, of course, in cheeky Luella esting collar details, such as style. Take the designer’s footwear of choice, for instance: riding boots, velvet and fur trims and large folded down, then spray painted and graphically reworked by the artist lapels. The evening lineup was Noki. Polkadot dresses featured puffed-up crinolines, while a raincoat expanded for fall, with gowns was printed with bowler-hatted men holding umbrellas. And, of course, shown with mostly fl oral and there were plenty of Bartley’s signature Mod suits — slim, trim, with that lace details.

British rocker vibe. AND ZACK SECKLER MITRA GEORGE CHINSEE, THOMAS IANNACCONE, ROBERT JOHN AQUINO, PHOTOS BY 10 WWD, TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 6, 2007

DressAll dolled upRehearsal with plenty of places to go. That’s what designers had in mind for their fall girls, delivering lots of swingy, shiny and swirling numbers.

Jill Stuart Jill Stuart: Could Jill Stuart be any more mad for Mod? Probably not, but the clean Sixties silhouette and the big polkadots she threw in made for a cute collection that was defi nitely wearable, if not a little repetitive. She favored lots of double- Thakoon breasted coats and minidresses, NEW either slim or swingy, and rarely strayed from her black, blue and Reem purple palette. While some of the Acra patent detailing was a little heavy- YORK handed, the shiny stuff looked great fall on boxy bags and clutches, which are ’07 new additions for fall.

Reem Acra: Here was an evening collection with no Thakoon: Often, it’s the simplest ideas that pack the histrionics. That’s not to say there wasn’t plenty of biggest punch. For Thakoon Panichgul, it was the high glam and a bit of Forties nostalgia, but Reem ingenious notion of crafting the most delicate tulle Acra did it all with restraint. And if gem tones are into T-shirts and hoodies that he layered under and your thing, she made a strong case for them in a bevy over lovely loose silk dresses. “In my fi rst collection, of emerald, sapphire or ruby velvet slender gowns. I did a hoodie in lace,” he said backstage. “I had to The show’s loveliest look, though, was a Martha bring it back.” Good thing he did, even though the Graham-inspired, swirling long-sleeved dress in rest of the runway was just as interesting and, in a blue velvet, tied snugly in back. Acra placed richly word, terrifi c. With every season, Panichgul hones jeweled shoulder straps on bare little velvet shifts his refi ned aesthetic. For fall, it was how he or fl uid dresses, and teamed black satin (on the subtly layered jacquards and prints; cut cocoon back) with emerald velvet (on the front) for a shapes to be fl attering, not unwieldy, and knew knockout suit that made for an amusing entrance- the only way to balance a slim feathered skirt exit effect. was to slip it under a gray wool tunic. WWD, TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 6, 2007 11 WWD.COM

Jeremy Kai Milla: Kai Milla Laing interpreted the trends du jour in two ways: elegant, high- more from the shows... waisted trousers and pencil Nanette Lepore: Among Nanette Lepore’s standard girlish fare skirts paired with voluminous — strong this season in beautiful plums and chocolate browns jackets, or overly done — were great cozy knits and matelassé coats punched up with a knotted and smocked gowns. shot of sparkle. Kai Milla Ohne Titel: Blink and you might have missed the off-calendar debut presentation of Alexa Adams and Flora Gill’s Ohne Titel, which would have been a shame because the designers, both Karl Lagerfeld alums, worked a superslick sportswear vision — silicone-dipped wool jersey dresses and streamlined tailoring — that would have done their former employer proud.

Naeem Khan: With “Dreamgirls” as his inspiration, Naeem Khan went for unapologetic glitz, emblazoning his much-improved fall collection with shine, shine, shine on understated shapes like T-shirt minis and fl uid, silk gowns.

Hollywould: Holly Dunlap’s eclectic inspirations ranged from a hunt in Scotland to the Seventies women’s liberation movement, and her Hollywould dress collection was equally all over the place, but her sparkling knit jersey numbers were right on track.

Sari Gueron: At Sari Gueron, structured ease was the name of the game, as hooded herringbone coatdresses mingled effortlessly with cashmere knits and embroidered skirts.

United Bamboo: At United Bamboo, Miho Aoki and Thuy Pham showed a multifaceted collection of utilitarian dresses and coats featuring textured Jeremy Laing: Jeremy Laing’s fabrics and origami pleats, but at times the weighty Ohne well-edited collection of materials overpowered the design. Titel severely shaped dresses, coats and separates was softened Benjamin Cho: Benjamin Cho delivered a welcome by the occasional drop-waist dose of joyful whimsy with his ladylike sheaths and oversized details including featuring larger-than-life button and jewel accents origami-like pleats and Nanette Hollywould Lepore and one charmingly witty, surrealist-inspired knit. geometric seaming. Naeem United Lambertson Khan Bamboo Truex

Luxe, Structured K SECKLER AND KRISTEN SOMODY and Classic RICHARD LAMBERTSON AND JOHN TRUEX of Lambertson Truex presented a fall collection Sari Benjamin Issa Sunday evening that was remarkably fresh, Gueron Cho London making it well worth the trek to West 17th Street. Staying true to their luxe style, the accessories Issa London: With a range of dresses — from boldly printed wraps to designers concentrated on skins, showing their glitzy, funky numbers — Daniella Helayel’s fl irtatious Issa London recognizable evening numbers in browns, reds collection will likely be a hit among the young and the restless. and metallics. But the newest looks came from their expanded collection of day bags and shoes. Edun: A dinner theater-style performance by The Citizens Band Cool blue and gray tones and animal patterns couldn’t have been better, and the clothes the band members road accompanied the signature neutral palette, while tested — Rogan Gregory and Ali Hewson’s all-black lineup of slip a patchwork-skin tote and leather and zebra- dresses and distressed knits — were appealing, too. patterned pony-hair boots were standouts. On Monday, London accessories designer Anya Katy Rodriguez: The old-world charm and rich color palette of the Hindmarch showed a collection that channeled Gramercy Park Hotel provided the perfect backdrop for the informal the Fifties and Sixties collaborations of architect presentation of Katy Rodriguez’s voluminous jewel-toned silk taffeta John Lautner and interior designer Arthur Elrod. dresses. “Their work together Anya Edun Adept looks modern today, Adept: At Adept, Joshua Hupper and Miyako Nakamura presented but in fact is decades Hindmarch fl uid dresses and sculptural jackets in metallics and iridescent silk old,” said Hindmarch. chiffons, pushing their futuristic angle in the right direction. “It doesn’t age, and that’s the way I want Staerk: With a rock undercurrent inspired by the band Joy Division, my collection to be.” Camilla Staerk offered up some appealing high-waisted numbers, The inspiration was but they weren’t enough to make up for the messily draped tops and evident in the structured bunched skirts and dresses. bags and shoes, pieced together with geometric Erin Fetherston: For her second New York showing, Erin Fetherston shapes. Stark patent showed froufrou dresses in fabrics that appeared a bit cheap, but her leathers and textured PYT friends are likely to fi nd at least one star in the collection. metallics adorned the collection that had Matthew Williamson: Matthew Williamson’s fall presentation overshot options for both the retro-minded or those Katy the mark with odd color combinations and prints, not to mention a looking to the future. Rodriguez bizarre range of silhouettes, which included hooded dresses, brocade

PHOTOS BY PASHA ANTONOV, TALAYA CENTENO, GEORGE CHINSEE, STEVE EICHNER, GIOVANNI GIANNONI, THOMAS IANNACCONE, ROBERT MITRA, ZAC GIANNONI, THOMAS IANNACCONE, ROBERT GIOVANNI GEORGE CHINSEE, STEVE EICHNER, CENTENO, TALAYA ANTONOV, PASHA PHOTOS BY shorts with jackets and glittering, butterfl y-sleeved gowns. 12 WWD, TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 6, 2007 Fashion Scoops PIED PIPER: Actress Piper Perabo enjoyed her paparazzi in the Red Dress show on Friday.” As for her attire on Monday, clearly the cold temperatures moment when she took her front-row seat at Oscar didn’t faze Cattrell — she sat barelegged, as if it were a sunny day in July. de la Renta on Monday, posing and smiling with the best of them. “This is my fi rst show this week,” said BEAUTY TIME: Helena Christensen is getting her feet wet in the world of beauty. At the Heart Perabo, who is starring with Diane Keaton and Mandy Truth Red Dress show last Friday, Christensen said she was involved with developing a hair Moore in the just-released fl ick “Because I Said So.” care line, Model.me, with Boots. “It’s interesting to be part of the process from beginning “I haven’t been to fashion week in a while. It always to end, and right now we’re choosing scents,” said Christensen, who added that seems like I am busy fi lming when it’s on.” Perabo Erin O’Connor, along with another unidentifi ed person, is involved in the project. admitted to being quite the fashion junkie; her “I’m doing the shampoo and conditioner because I use tons of conditioner and favorite designers include de la Renta, Zac Posen, am always looking for the next beautiful perfect conditioner. We’re all launching Alexander McQueen and Behnaz Sarafpour, whose different products that have to do with hair care. Now we’re on the scent stage, show she will check out today. “I always love seeing but next will be textures.” After recently launching her own clothing line with Lief beautiful clothes walk by and look so perfect.” Sigersen called Christensen & Sigersen, branching into makeup and cosmetics might not be too far down the road. “It’s a very interesting and an evolving SHOW ME THE Y-3: Cuba Gooding Jr. will be among business to be in, but I’d need someone to be behind me,” Christensen said. the guests at Wednesday night’s Y-3 show at the “It’s not simple launching a clothing line, but it takes a lot more competence Hunter College Gymnasium, a venue that has developing an actual cosmetic line and years of laboratory studies.” never hosted a runway show and that will be transformed for the event. Anna Kournikova, CHOICE MODELS: G-Star is picky when it comes to its choice in models — so picky, Michael C. Hall, Alan Cumming, Justin Theroux, in fact, that just any U.S.-based model won’t do. The company has chosen 26 and French soccer legend Zinedine Zidane will models (13 men, 13 women) based in The Netherlands to model in the fi rst G-Star be there to witness the 10th collection for the New York runway show on Wednesday. G-Star executives are fl ying all 26 models here Adidas and Yohji Yamamoto collaboration. on Tuesday to “perform” in the show and attend the after party at The Stanton Social on Wednesday night, and then is sending them back on Thursday. A spokeswoman COLETTE, MEET TARGET: Colette, the Parisian for G-Star said attendees at the show would be dazzled by a unique performance. “[The boutique, which prides itself on its exclusives, models] rehearsed in Barcelona for a few days,” she said. “They will be walking on a has been ahead of the curve on more than conveyor belt that is built into the stage.” Piper one trend. Now the retailer, located on Rue Perabo at du Faubourg St.-Honore, is gearing up for an CARAVAN’S NEXT STOP: Caravan got its start selling fashion from inside a remodeled truck Oscar de exclusive engagement of the Proenza Schouler for that was parked at different locations every weekend. Next came a permanent boutique on la Renta. Target collection. Never mind that Target has no Helena Great Jones Street. The store-on-wheels still roams, showcasing hard-to-fi nd brands and stores in the City of Light. The Proenza Schouler Christensen vintage pieces, and there’s a stylist on board to help customers fi nd a special look. With for Target collection will bow at Colette on Feb. 19, with prices ranging from 10 this emphasis on service, it seems only fi tting Caravan’s latest venture should be a by- euros to 108 euros, or $12.99 to $140, at current exchange rates. Parisians will appointment-only boutique on the Upper East Side. The new store, which is located in a be able to sample Jack McCullough and Lazaro Hernandez’s jersey dresses, jeans, brownstone, features Vena Cava, Vivienne Westwood, Alice & Trixie, Sretsis, Nieves Lavi, swimwear, jackets and shorts at a fraction of Proenza Schouler’s usual prices. Rachel Pally, Bill Tornade, Suzanne Simon and Erotokritos.

LUELLA SETS UP SHOP: Luella Bartley may have just shown her fall collection in LEGALLY FRAN: In a move straight out Manhattan, but it’s in her native London where she’ll open her fi rst store. The designer is set to of “Legally Blond II,” Fran Drescher fl ew unveil a standalone boutique in Mayfair in April, a company spokeswoman confi rmed Monday. in from D.C., where she “just passed She declined to give any more details, however. That Bartley has chosen London as the location a bill on women’s gynecological health for her fi rst store is no surprise: Her muses have run the gamut of Brit education,” to show her support for Reem icons from The Clash to Sloane Rangers, and her design studio is based Acra, where she sat front row Monday. in a converted schoolhouse in the city’s East End, where she’s neighbor “It’s such a worthwhile thing,” Drescher to Giles Deacon and Katie Hillier. In Mayfair, Bartley will likely be close said (referring to the former). to her designer contemporaries, including Matthew Williamson and Stella McCartney. both of whom have stores on Bruton Street. KAI’S WONDERMENT: Kai Milla and her Marc Jacobs is set to open on nearby Mount Street next week. husband, Stevie Wonder, work in very different mediums, but that doesn’t deter LONDON’S BAG LADY: Anya Hindmarch is on a crusade to reduce them from discussing inspiration. After the fashion industry’s carbon footprint — and her weapon of her Monday morning show, Wonder said, choice is a $10 shopping bag. The cotton canvas bag has “She talks a lot about different ideas she thick, rope handles might be arriving at. A lot of it is very and screams, “I’m similar to the way I write a song. It’s an Kim not a plastic bag” in inside thing — it could be a sound vision Cattrall fabric letters on the or a vision of a dress.” front. The limited- As for what sets an idea in motion, the edition bag will go 21-time Grammy winner said, “It’s hard on sale in mid-March to say. For me, it might be something I at Anya Hindmarch’s heard, and for Kai, it could be something U.K. stores and Web she has seen. It could be a vision she site, Colette in Paris, had in the middle of the night or in London’s Dover Street Market, Villa Moda in Kuwait and on the afternoon. Creativity has no time Net-a-porter.com. In April, it will also be sold through some signature.” less conventional channels: 300 Sainsbury’s supermarkets Milla said her more sophisticated fall in Britain. “We wanted to give people a choice between collection was a refl ection of her own state plastic bags and our bags, and what better place than a of being. “I wouldn’t say it’s a shift — it’s supermarket?” Hindmarch told WWD, adding that she more of a development. I have been going PETER KRAMER/GETTY IMAGES FOR IMG PHOTO BY doesn’t mind her bags selling alongside frozen Yorkshire through a growing process about who I Stevie Wonder with his sons, Mandla and Kailand. puddings and bottles of lager. “It’s not just about the am as a designer, as a mother and as a family brand. It’s about infl uencing people through fashion, and person. My fashion shows I’m here now.” communicating the idea that it’s cool to think about the Testimony to that, was how her two young sons climbed on the runway — completely environment,” she said. The project is meant to raise unprovoked — to greet her after the show. As Mandla looked around solemnly, Milla explained. awareness — and there are no profi t expectations or charity “He’s the serious one,” and then gestured toward Kailand standing nearby, “He’s the player.” donations involved. Hindmarch said the reaction so far — Their father, Wonder, opted not to play at the show as he has done on at least one occasion. you can pre-order the bags on her Web site, anyahindmarch. And he didn’t have a hand in the music, even though a remix of his “Living for the City” was part com — has been “bonkers,” and she’s already talking to of the soundtrack. “She hired a company to do that. But it was very good music,” he said. American partners to take the idea to the US soon. THE SOPRANOS: Don’t be fooled by the black mock turtlenecks, Bryant Park’s security team’s NEVER TOO COLD: Blending in seamlessly among the army know-how stretches far beyond the Colts’ running game. When one eagle-eyed guard saw Renee of socialites in Carolina Herrera’s front row was Kim Cattrall. Fleming looking fl ummoxed in the crush of Oscar de la Renta showgoers, he swiftly ushered With her coiffed blonde hair and Park Avenue-ready tweed her through, “By the way, your concert was wonderful,” he told “The Age of Diva” songstress. skirt suit (Mrs. Herrera, of course), she could have easily Swaddled in a fur coat and hat, Fleming was not an easy one to i.d. But after years of manning gone straight to lunch at Swifty’s. But the actress admitted the tents, they know their stuff, so crashers beware. They also have a photography book of it was her fi rst time taking in the designer’s show. socialites and show regulars as a back-up. “Last year, I was doing a play in London at the same time. And right before I left I stopped into a Carolina BREAKING OUT: As a prelude to the upcoming planned releases of solo albums, Kelly Roland of Herrera store and picked up the chicest outfi t that I could Destiny’s Child fame and J.C. Chasez of N’Sync broke from their ensembles to enjoy at little solo wear to cocktails, everywhere,” explained Cattrall, referring time on Jill Stuart’s front row.Neither wore the designer’s label to her show. Roland wore Luca to Herrera’s fall ’06 collection. “I also just wore her dress Luca, her destination later Monday, while Chasez, who has never worn Stuart, sported Burberry WWD, TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 6, 2007 13 WWD.COM to his fi rst show this season. “I haven’t worn it before, but maybe I’ll see U.S. was the next big target for the brand, which clocked 35 million euros, or $45.5 million, in something I like today,” Chasez said. sales (not including licenses) last year. “We’re trying to be fresher and younger,” he said. “For fall, we’re back on track.” Bousquet added the brand would unveil its latest women’s fragrance, JUST CHECKING: Rudy Giuliani has yet to offi cially throw his hat into in partnership with L’Oréal, on Feb. 15. the ring as a presidential candidate, but who else weekends in New Hampshire in late January without skiing? With his interest still in the GRAMMY BRAND: If Mary J. Blige, Christina Aguilera and other musicians nominated for a Grammy exploratory stage, his wife Judith isn’t stocking up on campaigning clothes. walk away from the Sunday awards ceremony empty-handed, they can always seek consolation in Before Oscar de la Renta’s show, she said, “I’m still loyal to the same a Grammy-branded T-shirt. people. I’ve always loved Oscar de la Renta and Carolina Herrera and I still The National Academy of Recording Arts & Sciences, which oversees the awards, is launching do. In fact, I wore an Oscar gown to President Bush’s inaugural ball.” a clothing line that will include T-shirts from Awake, eyewear from Franco, hand-painted Ts from But she wouldn’t say for certain if the former mayor was getting ready Michael Eaton and leather jackets from 3J Workshop. Hitting stores this fall, the label — aptly to run next year. She said, “I’m going to do whatever my husband wants called Grammy Brand — will retail from $49 to $3,700 and eventually expand into shoes, bags and to do.” other categories. In the meantime, Grammy nominees can get a peek at the new line at the Grammy Style Studio, aka the Recording Academy-endorsed swag suite that will be open Feb. 7 to 10. TWAS THE WEEK BEFORE VALENTINE’S: “Queer Eye for the Straight Guy” style guru Carson Kressley is counseling Carmen Electra, Milla Jovovich and JOOP IT UP: Dirk Schonberger, the German designer who generated buzz with his men’s wear, has Petra Nemcova on how to make their clothing relationships last. Kressley been named creative director of the Joop fashion brand, based in Germany. Schonberger said he was will host an “all” Clothing Love Affair, sponsored by All laundry detergent in charge of men’s, women’s and accessories. Though absent from the Paris men’s runway schedule and benefi ting the Clothes Off Our Back Foundation, Wednesday afternoon this season, Schonberger said he would like to return with his own label next year. Wolfgang Joop, at the Gramercy Park Hotel, where the celebrities will swap stories of who founded the Joop business, left some seven years ago and now designs the Wunderkind brand. their love affairs with their most prized clothing. After all, according to the hosts, a survey revealed that the average woman’s relationship with ROYAL FLUSH: A close friend of late French President François Mitterrand, Pierre Bergé has taken her favorite piece of clothing — 12 years — outlasts her longest romantic up the mantle for socialist presidential hopeful Segolene Royale. Bergé has formed a think tank relationship — 11 years. Doesn’t say much about romance. called “Friends of Segolene Royale” to broadly defi ne the candidate’s position. Though Bergé Judith said his group wasn’t an offi cial mouthpiece, Royale could use some of the Yves Saint Laurent Giuliani

I HEART N.Y.: Manhattan native Rachel Zoe may be busy in Los Angeles, STEVE EICHNER PHOTO BY dean’s marketing savvy. Recently, the presidential candidate put her foot in her mouth by but when push comes to shove, Zoe has an allegiance to New York. “I suggesting independence for Quebec as well as the French island of Corsica. was shooting every day this week and then I said forget it. I’m getting on a red eye. My heart is in New York,” said the stylist, who landed on Saturday and by Sunday attended Diane von HOME, SWEET HOME: After being promoted to president and chief merchandising offi cer of Saks Furstenberg, Erin Fetherston and Matthew Williamson. Hope Zoe’s last-minute jaunt doesn’t leave Fifth Avenue on Friday, Ron Frasch didn’t party all night long to celebrate. “I went home and had her in the r.s.v.p lurch. She has plans to attend about 10 high-profi le shows, including Marc a great dinner with my wife and my children,” Frasch said at the Réyes show Sunday morning. “I Jacobs, Michael Kors, Derek Lam and Narciso Rodriguez. went to bed early.”

SPACE AGE: Fancy being a fl y on the wall chez Karl Lagerfeld? Extracts from Rodolphe Marconi’s IN THE KNOW: Beth Ostrovsky was sitting pretty in the fi rst row of the Maticevski show on Saturday long-awaited documentary, “Lagerfeld Confi dential,” are to be screened over the next few afternoon in a black Alex Gaines dress and black patent leather Gucci heels. The girlfriend of days on MySpace’s new fashion channel, MySpace Boudoir. The fi rst episode, posted online at Howard Stern was excited about the show, although she professed her ignorance. “A friend of midnight Friday, includes footage of Nicole Kidman during fi ttings with the designer. The feature’s mine told me to come. I don’t know anything about him,” she admitted. “But she thinks I’ll love premiere will be held during the Berlin International Film Festival on Feb. 10, followed by private it.” And would the King of All Media make any special appearances at the shows this week? “I screenings in Paris and Tokyo in March. The event will mark one of a series of fashion exclusives tried,” Ostrovsky said. “But he says this is my thing.” lined up for the site, which was launched Thursday, including an event with Colette in March. CLOSE CALL: Talk about a fi re hazard. At the Charlotte Ronson show on Saturday night, the LIBERTY MAN: Jean Bousquet, who founded the Cacharel fashion business in 1958, is being contemporary designer fi lled The Box, downtown’s new dinner-theater hot spot, to the brim. honored by the city of Paris for his colorful career. Bousquet, who made Cacharel synonymous Hundreds of attendees pushed their way into the too-small space, one person even pushing a with Liberty prints and a youthful spirit, was awarded the gold medal of Paris by Mayor Bertrand waitress into a candle, causing her hair to catch fi re. She rushed to the kitchen to put out the Delanoe in a ceremony Friday. Bousquet said the distinction was particularly dear to him since it fl ame, and, luckily, no major damage was done. Meanwhile, celebrity guest Eve Jeffers had a hard coincided with a retrospective exhibit devoted to the brand that opened the evening before the time getting to the front. “Wow, that was rough,” she said, fi nally taking her seat. “I like how we Prêt à Porter trade show. A former politician who was the mayor of Nimes, Bousquet said the are all so close to each other.” 14 WWD, TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 6, 2007 WWD.COM

Shalom Next of Kin Harlow Her new headquarters is not quite ready for an opening, let alone a party, so Diane von Furstenberg’s closest friends stuffed into the banquettes at Indochine Sunday night to celebrate the designer’s latest collection. Ellen Barkin huddled with CAA superagent Bryan Lourd, Ashley Olsen hung out in the back with Christian Louboutin, texting on her BlackBerry, while others planted themselves by the bar, where the Super Bowl was being aired on a projector screen. “I love going to her show,” said fi lm director Mike Nichols, of von Furstenberg. “Except for the going in part. That’s not so much fun. It’s always a crush and then there’s always some frog sitting in your seat.” Also in the crowd were Lapo Elkann, Rachel Zoe, Carine Roitfeld, Amanda Brooks and the Ali designer’s husband, Barry Diller. Hewson Across town, there was more marital support in Edun. happening when Bono showed up at hot spot du jour The Box for the presentation of Edun, designed by his wife, Bono Ali Hewson, and Rogan Gregory. Editors and fashion hangers-on fi lled the cabaret space and were treated to a fanciful performance by The Citizens Band. Zooey Deschanel, a special guest star, belted out tunes about gasoline and global warming with the rest of the gang while Shalom Harlow, Mike Myers, Wynonna Judd and Julia Stiles milled about. Hewson’s rock-star better half maintained an extremely low profi le, keeping mum and Carine Roitfeld Lapo watching the action from the mezzanine. with Diane von Elkann, Out in West Hollywood last week, Kidada Jones, daughter Furstenberg. Ugo of Quincy, and Carly Margolis, daughter of Cherokee head Bobby, made Cacciatori the case for good breeding at Kaviar and Kind, where the progeny presented their and Barry respective collections. The former showed her limited-edition Disney Couture baubles, Diller. littered with cherry blossoms inspired by a jaunt to Tokyo, while the latter’s intricate wallpaper was framed for display. Christian Following Quincy’s lead, the Tinseltown fathers in the crowd stuck close to their Louboutin kin. Dustin Hoffman stopped by with son Jake, and Bruce Willis mingled between the with jewelry cases while daughter Rumer headed to the back room to get a look at rings Ashley not on the retail fl oor. Olsen. Nicole Richie might have been the only one not in a buying mood. Chided for not wearing Disney Couture items, she retorted, “I’m pretending to.” Bijou Phillips indicated Richie could do worse than emulate Jones’ style. “Kidada has always had massive amounts of really dope jewelry. Ever since we were young, she has always been the best dressed,” said Phillips. Jones nodded enthusiastically and showed his support by cleaning out the store’s stock of Disney Couture wrap bracelets at $2,500 a pop. Carly Margolis joked that her silk-screened wallpaper — at nearly $700 to cover one side of a room — “is probably the least expensive thing in here.”

Kidada Jones with Sydney and Anika Poitier.

Sunrise Ruffalo in Balenciaga with Kathy Azarmi-Rose Amanda in Tao by Brooks Comme de Nicole Carly chats with Garçons at Richie Margolis Alexandre Kaviar and in Jenni with Dustin von Kind. Kayne. Hoffman. Furstenberg.

With frigid temps almost equal to their dress sizes, the socials faced the extra burden of looking chic for a string of ladylike fashion week shows Monday. But those who lined the Carolina Herrera and Oscar de la Renta front rows proved they were up to the challenge, mixing knee- high boots, minidresses, tights, furs and knits. Jamee Gregory, just back from St. Barth’s a day earlier, was unaccustomed to the frigid weather, but took it in stride. “I put on these boots,” she said, Jamee gesturing to her tall brown suede Shoshanna Mercedes Gregory Lauren Patricia footwear after the Herrera show. “And Gruss at Bass at at duPont at Lansing I have so many layers on! It was so Carolina Oscar de Carolina Oscar de with warm in there I had to keep peeling Herrera. la Renta. Herrera. la Renta. daughter them off.” Carolina She wasn’t the only one taking the layering route. Shoshanna Gruss slipped a turtleneck under her white Annette at the jumper, Tiffany Dubin wore a tissue-thin knit under her Vera Wang dress (topped with a white Dior parka) de la Carolina and Lauren duPont paired a short-sleeved Lux sweater with a long-sleeved brown T-shirt. Renta Herrera “It was so hard to get dressed for the cold,” lamented duPont. “I’m not sure this is going to work for the at show. whole day.” Oscar But work it did, as it carried her to Oscar later that day, where Mercedes Bass chose a cuddly fur and de la Annette de la Renta forwent 10021 stilettos in favor of Vermont-worthy boots with tucked-in gray slacks. Lisa Renta. Airan also evoked New England with her high-fashion sportswear twist. “I’m in YSL and my parka ski vest because it’s cold out there,” she said of her printed dress,

COLD SHOULDER accessorized with high-heeled boots and a ski hat. EDUN AND COLD SHOULDER PHOTOS BY STEVE EICHNER; DVF BY JIMI CELESTE; KAVIAR AND KIND BY DONATO SARDELLA DONATO AND KIND BY JIMI CELESTE; KAVIAR STEVE EICHNER; DVF BY EDUN AND COLD SHOULDER PHOTOS BY PHOTO: INGE PRADER OTC:SRHJN OMNM+49(0)[email protected] GODMAN CONTACT: SARAH-JANE TVNKELLY M+44(0)[email protected] STEVEN 8T ERAY–1 HMARCH THFEBRUARY –12TH 28 3RUEDUMAIL75002PARIS 13 AL ERARD SALLE SHOWROOM 16 WWD, TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 6, 2007 WWD.COM

WHAT’S NEXT?: Hearst Magazines keeps coming up with Natasha Poly ways to partner with advertisers, and this time, the for Nine West. effort has spread across four of its titles, Cosmopolitan, MEMO PAD Cosmogirl, Marie Claire and Harper’s Bazaar. Revlon is the sole sponsor in four, 12-page mini magazines that are ANOTHER SHUTOUT: For the second consecutive season, reporters affi xed to the covers of each March issue. A spokeswoman at The New York Times were not invited to cover Carolina said the 5-inch-by-7-inch mini magazines contain equal Herrera’s show. On Monday morning, Cathy Horyn informed her parts advertising and editorial. But it’s not easy to tell readers that she had a little extra time to blog, since Herrera the difference. Many of the editorial pages look like ads has continued her ban. Trip Gabriel, style editor, told WWD that, themselves, as they also feature Revlon products. “we’re disappointed Mrs. Herrera doesn’t want our reporters to Kiki Rees, senior vice president of media and cover her collections.” Meanwhile, Phoebe Gubelmann, director communications at Revlon, said one of the draws for of communications for the designer, was also tight-lipped. “They the cosmetics company to participate in the project was were not there because they were not invited.” the opportunity to help with its theme. The ads are for Herrera’s cold shoulder toward the Times began when Revlon’s limited-edition collection. A Hearst spokeswoman Horyn wrote on Feb. 7, 2006, that Herrera’s fall collection added that the project marks the fi rst time a U.S. was “remarkably irrelevant.” She added, “I can’t imagine publisher has attached a mini magazine to the cover of her wearing these clothes: print dresses in pool shades multiple titles. For its part, Revlon just experienced a of aqua (with black tights, to boot) and rusty wool suits fi rst of its own — running a commercial during the Super with fussy collars or ruched yokes and sleeves that looked Bowl. The company aired a 60-second ad during the third trussed rather than fi nessed. With a ruched garment, do quarter that was said to have cost $3 million. — A.W. you really want to see the strings?” Ouch. Well, there’s always next season. — Amy Wicks WORKIN’ IT: Natasha Poly has been chosen as the new

face of Nine West and will be featured in the brand’s spring ad campaign. The Russian native is no stranger to posing for the camera. She’s been on the cover of Vogue six times and worked runways for Louis Vuitton, Chanel, Gucci and Balenciaga. “Natasha has a fresh, globally appealing look that properly represents the essence of our brand,” said Stacy Lastrina, executive vice president of marketing and creative services for Jones Apparel Group.

IN THE HUNT: New York magazine is said to be pursuing Rebecca Dana, most recently a television reporter at The New York Observer. Both sides declined to comment on what’s shaping up as a singularly meta narrative of New York media. The young reporter’s much-reported-on offer at The New York Times was said to have been revised to a three-year trial, allegedly after rumors circulated she’d dissed current Times TV reporter Bill Carter’s work. Over at the Village Voice, editor David Blum also has sat down with Dana. “I know Rebecca and am a huge admirer of her work. We talked about possibilities at the Voice, but our discussions never reached the point of a job offer,” he wrote in an e-mail. — Irin Carmon

COVERGIRL: Cindy Crawford will be the face of New York & Co. for its summer campaign. Crawford follows “Grey’s Anatomy” stars Ellen Pompeo and Patrick Dempsey, who have modeled for the company’s ads the last two seasons, and Eva Longoria and Iman before that. Launching in May issues of magazines including Glamour, People and Oprah, the images will depict Crawford in “real life everyday roles,” according to New York & Co.

Cindy Crawford WWD, TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 6, 2007 17 WWD.COM Ready-to-Wear Report Lord & Taylor Readies for Its Close-up Continued from page one perception than the people who have not been in Yurman, Burberry, Zegna and St. John, and Y&R’s BrandBuzz, the research and the store,” Baker said. “It’s important, now that branding arm of Young & Rubicam. Jane has spent four years improving the product Randall Ridless, who has designed retail interiors for Burberry, Holt Renfrew, Van mix, to get the customer into the store. When they Cleef & Arpels, Saks Fifth Avenue and Bergdorf Goodman, will collaborate with the come, they like it, and they buy and they stay. We Mancini Duffy architectural and design fi rm to revamp Lord & Taylor units. Mancini are very confi dent that with appropriate market- Duffy lists Bloomingdale’s, Ian Schrager Hotels, Saks Fifth Avenue, Bliss, Bergdorf ing and promotion and advertising, we can bring Goodman and Calvin Klein among its clients. more customers in. We would always like to see “This is only the beginning of a whole series of new and exciting announcements,” said slightly younger customers in the store, but we Richard Baker, president and chief executive offi cer of NRDC Equity Partners, which are also trying to strengthen the core purchased L&T from Federated Department Stores last year for $1.1 billion and is said to customer base.” be eyeing Saks Fifth Avenue and Barneys New York as possible takeover targets. “NRDC Lord & Taylor is America’s is moving swiftly to meet the challenging and exciting goals we have set for Lord & Taylor. oldest department store. We’re dedicated to bringing the most creative minds and people to Lord & Taylor.” Founded in 1826, it current- L&T in A cornerstone of future assortments and marketing will be advancing L&T’s historic ly operates 47 units gener- Manhattan. profi le as “the home of American fashion design,” Baker said. “It’s very important to all ating a volume of about of us that Lord & Taylor is the industry leader for American design, and continues to $1.4 billion, including search the country for great talent.” about $140 million from With the infl ux of the new talent, “we’ve increased our marketing budget over 20 the 650,000-square-foot percent for the foreseeable future, and as far as capital improvements, we are working flagship in Manhattan, on plans on a great number of locations,” Baker said. which should prove to be He also hinted that L&T’s proprietary brands, notably the Kate Hill bridge sports- an ambitious project. From wear collection and the Context contemporary label, could gain prominence in the as- its 11 selling fl oors, it will be sortment, but declined to specify any plans for private labels. downsized to possibly fi ve or Jane Elfers Addressing the infl ux of outside talent, Jane Elfers, L&T’s president and ceo, said, six selling levels, or 250,000 to “These prestigious and celebrated creative teams represent some of the most innova- 300,000 square feet, considering tive minds in the creative design and marketing communities today. Bringing these each fl oor plate is 50,000 square feet. teams on board is the fi rst of many steps we plan to take in order to continue to ener- Upper fl oors will probably become offi ces. The fl agship gize and refi ne Lord & Taylor.” is considered very overspaced for the volume it gener- Richard Baker The L&T executives acknowledged it’s unusual for a retailer to bring in so much ates and is worth an estimated $400 million or more. outside talent at one time, though L&T is a special case. For many years, the industry Baker has previously said he envisioned $250 million perceived the retailer as lacking distinction, failing to play up its heritage, and like for improvements at the chain, $100 million specifi cally for other regional chains, having a limited future. L&T stagnated under the formulaic mer- the fl agship, but that’s subject to change as budget plans develop. chandising and promotional strategies of the former May Department Stores, which The Boston and Northbrook, Ill., stores would share in the capital budget; other units in also overexpanded L&T beyond its northeastern roots. Manhasset, N.Y.; Stamford, Conn., and Chevy Chase, Md., would be high on the list for Four years ago, while still owned by May, L&T started eliminating moderate lines; capital improvements. The budget would cover several years. adding better, bridge and contemporary labels, and curtailing much of the ubiqui- This is the fi rst retail assignment for Lipman, who joins L&T as a creative consul- tous couponing it was known for, to distance itself from other May nameplates. It also tant, but he noted, “Everything I’ve done has been somewhat connected to the retail began closing far-fl ung stores. In 2005, May was purchased by Federated and last year world. I love things that have great heritage. There are great brands with depth and Federated sold L&T to NRDC, which is really when perceptions started changing as longevity, and maybe a little dusty, but all you have to do is dig into the archives to know details emerged about L&T’s improving performance, particularly in suburban loca- how to modernize the brand.” He said L&T would be on the fast track for fall and that tions, and its valuable real estate. the new marketing and advertising would have several components “to make Lord & “After having spent the past four years repositioning L&T, including the remerchan- Taylor the gem it should be.” dising of 80 percent of the stores’ content and closing 38 underperforming stores, I Said Hamish McLennan, global ceo, Y&R, “This is a wonderful opportunity for can say with confi dence that with the support of our new owners, we are now well BrandBuzz. Lord & Taylor is a beloved brand, and the team looks forward to position- positioned to work with these very talented creative partners to showcase these accom- ing it for the future.” plishments in our upcoming branding campaign and in our new store design,” Elfers In addition, NRDC has retained Lividini Weisenfeld Partners for marketing and com- said. “The thing that has been missing has been capital investment.” munications, and recently named Cynthia Steffe a consultant. Christina Johnson, who was Elfers stressed that L&T remains a work in progress. “We continue to upgrade the president and ceo of Saks Fifth Avenue from 2000 to 2003, last fall joined NRDC Equity as image and we are not done with the merchandise changes.” partner and managing director of retail and consumer investments. NRDC is believed to Asked if the rebranding would change the store’s appeal, Elfers replied, “Lord & be interested in developing a portfolio of retail brands. In February 2006, NRDC closed on Taylor [continues to focus] on the Baby Boomer, but at the same time we have been its acquisition of Linens ‘N Things, which was purchased with Apollo Management. working hard to be relevant to a new generation of shoppers. The new branding cam- NRDC Equity Partners LLC is a joint venture between Robert C. Baker and Richard paign will showcase that.” A. Baker, principals of National Realty & Development Corp., and William Mack and “I think we’ve found that the consumer that shops Lord & Taylor has a very different Lee Neibart, partners of Apollo Real Estate Advisors L.P. Dennis Basso to Court International Audience in Bryant Park Tents NEW YORK — Dennis Basso’s decision to show in the tents during New York Fashion “The most important thing is by showing the Week was free from the stomach-wrenching doubts many Bryant Park newcomers ready-to-wear, fur and accessories together, it will face. give the Dennis Basso brand a complete global The nearby New York Public Library has been the site of his fur runway shows awareness,” he said of his company, which An evening for the past few seasons. But the launch of his ready-to-wear collection and cocktail is expected to have sales this year of $30 gown clothes called for something more modern than the Beaux-Arts building that is home million. from the to the Library Lions, Patience and Fortitude. Eventually, he plans to open more designer’s “This is a very exciting thing for me to do. I have had shows in most of the major stores, broaden his reach in Europe beyond new ready- hotels and venues in the city, but there’s a certain excitement that comes with show- his existing Western European private clients and to-wear ing at Bryant Park for the fi rst time,” Basso said. enter the Asian market. The development of other collection. With four freestanding stores in upscale locales like Aspen and Madison Avenue, categories is planned down the road, he said. Basso has always considered himself a designer, not a furrier. The interior of his For now, Basso is content to keep uptown store and offi ce is supposed to resemble a posh apartment complete with a forging ahead, though the Morris uniformed maid who offers shoppers beverages on a silver tray. His socialite friends County, N.J., native doesn’t are regulars at his runway shows and several will be among the 750 people expected seem to have lost sight of to be on hand Feb. 9 for Basso’s fashion week debut. where he started. A wed- Many fi t the description of his targeted customer — “the young, sophisticated, ding dress sketch he drew modern woman who enjoys luxury dressing.” During an interview last week, Basso at the age of seven and a himself had taken on a younger look, opting for a T-shirt with a cashmere sweater and fawning handwritten let- jacket instead of a suit. His rtw and eveningwear consists of gowns, pants, jackets, ter he received from his cocktail dresses and sweaters. Retail prices will start at $1,500 for a chiffon blouse kindergarten teacher for and will top off at $10,000 for a beaded and embroidered evening gown. his commercial success “The inspiration really came from some classic shapes and classic fabrics, but in- are framed in his offi ce terpreted them for today,” he said. “Today, people want to feel like they are dressing right next to glowing re- modern. My collection is refi ned but very modern and a little sexy.” views of previous shows. In business for 23 years, Basso is so set on making the clothes the main attraction Asked if he will do any- that he steers clear of any questions relating to celebrity models or special guests. In thing for luck next week, the Dennis Basso years past, Diana Ross, Liza Minnelli and Ivana Trump were among the women who designer said he will put one surprised guests by making the fi nal turns in his shows. “We’ve gotten away from that. of his late mother Theresa’s ear- I really want this to be about the clothes.” rings in his pocket. “This is a natural Pleased with the response he received to the limited rtw pieces he showed on the progression for me. I’ve been a successful runway and in last year’s ad campaign, Basso felt the time was right to go forward designer who happened to be working with a full-fl edged collection. His signature fur outerwear and accessories will be in fur,” he said. amid the 40 pieces that will be seen on the catwalk. — Rosemary Feitelberg PHOTO BY KYLE ERICKSEN KYLE PHOTO BY 18 WWD, TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 6, 2007 WWD.COM Upscale Look at Paris Trade Shows Strong Sales Lift Henkel By Emilie Marsh Cameron PARIS — European sportswear is Taylor Knitwear having a luxury makeover. In 4th Quarter and Year To better face fierce competi- Design. tion from fast-fashion chains and BERLIN — Henkel’s cosmetics and toiletries division had a an increasingly brand-conscious strong fourth quarter in 2006; earnings before interest and taxes clientele, contemporary brands at rose 12 percent, to 101 million euros, or $130.2 million at aver- the recent round of apparel trade age exchange. Adjusted for foreign exchange, EBIT was up 14.3 shows here were upping the luxury percent for the period. quotient, adding more runway-in- Fourth-quarter sales for the division rose 9.5 percent, or 12 spired styles and upscale detailing percent on a foreign currency adjusted basis, to 734 million to traditional sportswear. euros, or $946.6 million. Organic growth was placed at 5.2 per- The Prêt à Porter and Who’s Next cent for the quarter. events at the Porte de Versailles For fi scal 2006, Henkel’s beauty business reported an 11.7 exhibit halls, which wrapped up a percent rise in EBIT to 359 million euros, or $451 million, while four-day run on Sunday, featured sales gained 8.9 percent, to 2.86 billion euros, or $3.6 billion. The a plethora of trendy sportswear division’s organic growth was 4.1 percent. and contemporary brands eager The Henkel Group, which includes laundry and home care, to smooth out boundaries between consumer and craftsman adhesives, and Henkel technologies, designer labels and sportswear reported a 13.1 percent brands. Ultrafeminine silhouettes gain in net earnings for and styles, especially dresses, domi- the year to 871 million nated the fashion message. BEAUTY BEAT euros, or $1.09 billion. “Brands are offering a new ‘high Operating profits im- street deluxe’ category with trendy proved by 11.7 percent, and return on sales rose 0.5 percentage yet affordable styles that provide a points, to 10.2 percent. Group sales were up 6.4 percent, to 12.74 bit of the luxury dream and offer an billion euros, or $16 billion, and organic sales growth, adjusted for alternative to shopping at Zara and foreign exchange and acquisitions/divestments, was 6 percent. H&M,” said Cedric Charbit, general The Düsseldorf-based group is forecasting organic sales merchandise manager of women’s growth, when adjusted for foreign exchange, of 3 percent to 4 fashion at Printemps. “Streetwear percent, and for EBIT to exceed the pace of organic sales. and denim are becoming more femi- — Melissa Drier nine. Denim is sliding into the con- temporary category and is targeting a more feminine clientele.” Charbit said Who’s Next was Somerville Sets QVC Debut packed with creative fashion brands LOS ANGELES — In her daily routine, skin care marketer Kate with similar product offerings, citing Somerville’s job is to suppress breakouts. But for her own break- Paul & Joe Sister’s as an attractive out on QVC, Somerville will make an exception. collection with commercial potential. Her debut appearance on the shopping channel is scheduled for “There is a general evolution of Sunday, during the second edition of “Beauty Newsmakers Face to

streetwear, which is clearly heading ANNA ISOLA CROLLA; PHOTO BY DOMINIQUE MAITRE ALL OTHERS BY CAMERON TAYLOR Face,” a show that highlights brands gaining press exposure. toward design and creation,” said Allen Burke, QVC’s director of merchandising, said Somerville Luc Bierme, buyer at Citadium, a Paris sportswear denim label Renhsen boasted a collection of raw is a perfect candidate for the show because she “is really a future retailer owned by retail and luxury giant PPR. denim styles for women made from Japanese sel- star, if not already a star. Clearly, she has an amazing celebrity fol- Bierme said retro touches from the Sixties, vage denim. lowing. A thousand big-time celebrities can’t be wrong.” On the such as short dresses and cropped jackets, as well “Customers want clean, unwashed looks and episode, Somerville is joining a prestigious group that includes as rock ’n’ roll infl uences from the Eighties, like straight cuts,” said Mikaël Mouangué, the brand’s Cristina Carlino, creator of Philosophy, Leslie Blodgett, president ultraslim jeans and British pop infl uences, would designer. of Bare Escentuals, Cristina Bartolucci, co-founder of DuWop, and continue into the fall. Subdued palettes, especially gray and black, set Maureen Kelly, creator of Tarte. Retailers said they were placing orders, but a somewhat somber tone. However, punctuations Somerville’s contribution is her signature, intensive exfoliating with a cautious stance, reserving budgets for re- of blues and violets, as well as delicate trimmings Kate In A Jar, which typically retails for around $85 for a 1.7-oz. help- plenishments and late orders. The majority said such as leather detailing and fabric-covered but- ing, and her expert skin treatment advice for callers with questions. their budgets for fall-winter 2007-08 would remain tons, added some sophistication to collections and “I am really nervous for QVC,” Somerville admitted. “Luckily, on par with last year’s. allowed for more individuality. I have to rely on what I know, and I know a lot about skin.” “The market is totally changing,” said Sally High-end knitwear was a key direction. This in- — Rachel Brown Hilkene, of Churchill, a high-end women’s ready- cluded Copenhagen-based Munthe Plus Simonsen, to-wear store in Kansas City, Mo. “Customers are which for its Paris debut presented a style-con- always on the lookout for new brands. We are con- scious contemporary rtw collection. tinuously adding new names.” “There is a demand for beautiful Scandinavian Pout Gets Equity Infusion Hilkene, who plans to increase her budget style and especially knitwear,” said Anoushka NEW YORK — Pout Ltd., the fi ve-year-old London-based indie slightly, said Amsterdam-based Nodresscode of- Gresvig Mac-Crohon, co-owner of Paris-based D cosmetics brand, has been recapitalized by Catterton Partners fered creative inspirations such as high-waist, Collection Showroom, an agent for the brand in of Greenwich, Conn., a private equity fi rm that also is a partner wide-leg pants with metallic detailing. She added France. “It’s sexy, but in a less obvious way.” in Frédéric Fekkai & Co. LLC and Niadyne Inc. Sylvie Shimmel to her list of favorites and said Refi ned details such as leather buttons on a Pout’s original founders — Emily Cohen, Chantal Laren and that Natacha & Vanessa’s dresses were reminis- slate blue knit jacket for 145 euros, or about $187 Anna Singh — will remain fi rmly involved in the brand’s creative cent of Jane Fonda’s look in “Barbarella.” Overall, at current exchange, at wholesale was a hit among development, particularly in new product creation, while Catterton Hilkene said collections had more shine and retailers at the show. Partners and its operating company, Chrysallis, will provide infra- shimmer than in past seasons. The Prêt, which continued to have a section structure and supply chain support while handling product devel- At Who’s Next, denim brands were taking a dedicated to so-called ethical fashion as well as a opment, manufacturing, distribution and marketing communica- sophisticated approach to jeans. Budding Paris special exhibit on Dutch fashion culture, also of- tions. “Supply chain development is the biggest issue,” said Melisse fered an array of lavish knits. Shaban, chief executive offi cer of the New York-based Chrysallis. “People want luxurious, chunky knitwear and Details of the investment were not disclosed. Neither were fi gures A Look A look by knit jackets with big buttons,” said Edinburgh concerning the size of the business, but industry sources estimate by Paul Munthe Plus knitwear designer Cameron Taylor, who presented Pout’s annual volume at $20 million. The brand is distributed in & Joe Simonsen. her eponymous brand at the Prêt. about 450 specialty and department store doors around the world, Sister. The collection of cashmere and wool styles including the Harvey Nichols Group, House of Fraser, Sephora, made from 100 percent Scottish yarn wholesales Henri Bendel, Holt Renfrew and Victoria’s Secret, as well as the for 98 euros, or $127, to 295 euros, or $381. Pout Covent Garden fl agship. The majority of its sales are gener- For David Jarmon, president and husband of ated in the U. K., U.S., Canada, Australia and the Middle East. designer Tara Jarmon, the Prêt is essential for the brand’s overall business. “Our sales are up 30 percent each season,” Jarmon said. “The show is a necessary for custom- CEW Awards Back in Britain ers to fi rst view the collection and then continue LONDON — The second annual Cosmetic Executive Women (U.K.) to purchase throughout the year.” Beauty Awards, which will be held April 26, is to include mass Organizers at both the Prêt and Who’s Next market beauty and hair care categories for the first time. CEW said that supporting young designers was a key members taking part in the World Duty Free-sponsored event will element in attracting retailers on the hunt for un- judge 185 beauty products — almost double the number last year. known names to round out their collections. The items up for consideration will be exhibited during a demon- At Who’s Next, Marine Miel showed off Suzon et stration evening Feb. 19. “[The awards] are geared toward help- Lena, a colorful line of whimsical knitwear styles, ing brands sell at retail,” said Caroline Neville, president of CEW while Margot Milin’s namesake collection offered (U.K.). “We had a good result last year, with all winning brands daywear with simple lines and retro infl uences. showing good increases in sales.” QVC, the home-shopping chan- Buyers from France, Italy and the U.K. were in nel, will broadcast a one-hour show with the event as its theme on full force at the show, and there was strong atten- April 27 and sell a selection of the winning products. dance from Japan and China. JG<:@8CGIFDFK@FE8CJ<:K@FE 4HE&UR2UNWAY2EPORTi New York – February 4, 2007 fur has a unique quality that punches in Marc Valvo and Badgley Mischka have new ways to add depth and excitement Among designers, the demand for the design element, bringing a kind of shown us how fur can be interpreted to already spectacular collections. For fur has never been greater. The tre- drama and richness to the runway that in ways that are heart-stopping and J Mendel and Dennis Basso, fur has mendous creative possibilities provided no other fabric can match. luxurious yet completely wearable. At been at the core of their creative in- by new techniques in manufacturing, Leading designers, including Oscar Venexiana, Zang Toi, Tuleh, Derek spiration as they have expanded their shearing and dying have made fur one de la Renta, Carolina Herrera, Michael Lam, Jeremy Scott and Peter Som, fur artistry to create sexy, sophisticated, of today’s most versatile fabrics. Plus, Kors, Chado Ralph Rucci, Carmen has been used in innovative and bold elegant ready-to-wear collections. 7HATCANWEEXPECTTOSEEINFURTHISSEASON

From lightweight minimalist looks to ultra-luxe over-the-top glamour, fur will be featured prominently in designer collections again across the runways this week in New York. Here are just some of the key trends to watch in the fall 2007 collections: i 3ILHOUETTES #OLOR Fur jackets, coats and capes will Color palettes for fur in fall will remain strong, providing drama, layering be as rich and varied as the stories and texture to rtw collections. Looks will behind the designers’ inspirations. range from tailored, fitted men’s wear Black continues its dominant pres- looks in sheared mink, sheared beaver ence, unrivalled for its super-chic or broadtail to looser, more voluminous and super-polished look. Rich, deli- looks in fox, sable and long-haired mink. cious hues of claret, plum, burgundy, Smaller, easy-to-wear silhouettes includ- burnt orange, amethyst, teal and jade ing capelets, shrugs and toppers will allow green will tease and tantalize. Soft, versatility and can be easily integrated sumptuous grays, pastels and ivory with casual looks, suits or eveningwear. will add a dreamy feminine appeal More vests and a new take on sweater while oxidized metallics, silver and dressing with a 1950s cardigan feel will deep bronze metallic will suggest Bold new trims. Feathered fur. add to the sportier options for fall. Fur modernity and glamorous decadence. trim will be used extensively as designers And let’s not forget the warm, cozy seek to add a dash of luxury and contrast elegance that only natural browns 4ECHNIQUE for even more eye-popping appeal. can provide. Manufacturing innovations play a key role as consumers look for uniqueness and detail in fur fashion. This season, designers will go well beyond the simple full fur, fur collar or cuff, integrating fur into garments in bold new ways. Shearing, grooving and the combination of sheared and non-sheared fur will lend depth and texture to rtw looks. Organza, lace, metallic fabrics, ribbons, leather and suede will be integrated with fur to create bold new textiles. A fanciful, flirty effect will come from feathering fur and applying it to fabrics. New knitting techniques combining multiple types of fur and yarn will produce an elegant softness that is exceptionally light. For some designers, unique dying techniques, laser cutting and stenciling will provide an opportunity to add an element of whimsy and surprise to their creations. With a universe of creative possibilities designers will continue to embrace fur for fall 2007 bringing a bold array of new looks to the runways. Addressing women’s busier, more varied lifestyles these fashions will add a dash of elegance and drama to jeans, bring casual sophistication to the country weekend wardrobe, highlight the sophistication of a tailored suit or complement the elegance of an evening gown. This season, more than any other, you will see that fur is truly the fabric of choice. Integrating fur and fabric. Bold, rich colors.

323.782.1700 www.fur.org 20 WWD, TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 6, 2007 WWD.COM Lambertson Truex Aiming High

By Sophia Chabbott A rendering of Lambertson NEVER MIND ACCESSIBLE LUXURY — LAMBERTSON TRUEX IS AIMING FOR Truex’s Los Angeles store. the somewhat inaccessible. Inset: David Lamer. The U.S. luxury accessories fi rm, which Samsonite acquired in July, is rolling out its fi rst freestanding stores. The target customer is clearly defi ned with handbag prices averaging at $3,000 to $5,000 and exotic skin pieces that can climb upwards of $16,000. “There’s always aspiration,” said David Lamer, who came on board as Lambertson’s president of sales, merchandising and marketing, a STEPHEN SULLIVAN PHOTOS BY new role, in October after a stint at Kate Spade. “There is always going to be the customer who is going to want something that is out of their reach. We want to be the one everyone wants to aspires to. Our specifi c target is that affl uent woman. She’s not driven by trend. She knows exactly what she wants.” The nine-year-old fi rm, founded by designers Richard Lambertson and John Truex, is opening two stores soon. The fi rst, in April, is a 2,200-square-foot shop at 8457 Melrose Place in Los Angeles, with valet parking and custom Tibetan carpets to open. The second will debut early this summer at 692 Madison Avenue in New York. The 1,800-square-foot store is spread over two fl oors, and like the Los Angeles unit will carry all of the brand’s categories, including women’s and men’s shoes, bags, belts, gloves and other accessories. The opening of Lambertson’s shops marks a trend in the retail world for luxury accessories stores. On Saturday, the Tod’s SpA-owned French accessories fi rm Roger Vivier will launch its fi rst U.S. unit on Madison Avenue, with select hand- bags climbing into the tens of thousands of dollars. Coach announced an initiative to open two Coach Legacy shops in New York and Los Angeles touting handbags that are 45 percent higher in price than the $2.4 billion fi rm’s core product. British leather goods house Mulberry is also in the midst of a U.S. retail expansion, launching two Bottoli said the fi rst factor in the Lambertson strategy past the signature stores stores in Manhattan, one in Los Angeles and two in other locations. is to create excitement about the brand in the U.S. by further penetrating its whole- Each store, designed by Truex and Lambertson, along with Tsao & McKown Architects, sale distribution with existing accounts in Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue, will house an area in which customers can custom order men’s or women’s accessories Bloomingdale’s and Bergdorf ’s, which launched the brand. Next is to establish new to suit their tastes with options of skins in any color, hardware in precious metal, lining categories to create a lifestyle image. Eyewear, jewelry, timepieces and fragrance are alternatives and monogramming. Bespoke prices range from about $3,000 to said to be in the works and would have plenty of attention in the fi rm’s stores. The $25,000, but as is the nature of bespoke, the sky is the limit. company’s fi rst advertising campaign also is being developed. “We have customers in Chicago and Boston, and some of these Bottoli and Lamer, however, are both adamant about keeping the brand ultraexclu- areas who alone will purchase $200,000 worth of our product in sive. The fi rm is looking to open more in-store shops within the existing spe- a year,” Lamer said. “It’s quite a following. I like to call it the cialty accounts, as well. As of now, they are not looking to add more Bentley of handbags.” specialty or independent retailer accounts. The company intends to open six to eight stores in North There also are plans to grow the brand internationally. Next America within fi ve years. Locations include Las Vegas, San month, Lamer is taking a whirlwind, three-week trip to Asia, Francisco, Boston, Chicago and another four to fi ve cities, which Russia, the Middle East and Europe to seek locations and were not named by Samsonite president Marcello Bottoli. get a feel for the retail climate. The company already is “The one message from the beginning when we signed sold in select international doors, including Isetan in the deal: You control your own destiny when you have a Tokyo and David’s in Toronto. It also is sold in Russia, store,” Bottoli said. “When you have a store it also helps Switzerland and Germany. show the brand to your wholesale distribution. The brand Until the Samsonite acquisition, Truex and Lambertson, is still too partial and fragmented to the consumer.” former co-chief executive offi cers, were occupied with the Lambertson and Truex began designing the stores long company’s operations and less so on design. In recent months, before the acquisition and long before it was feasible to Lamer has used a team to work with the now co-creative di- complete them. In keeping with the brand’s luxe and rectors. Carrie Hess was hired as an account executive, austere aesthetic, the stores have dark-wood fl oors, and Karen Fechter was named director of merchandising chrome and wood cabinetry and displays that are and Jason Lyn was named senior designer. moveable for parties and other functions. There are And the ideas are fl ying. The corporate restruc- also custom designed chandeliers and linear beige turing is evident in the fi rm’s fall collection. Bags couches where customers can sip Champagne or lat- done in black and white zebra-striped pony hair tés as they are served by a knowledgeable sales staff. Fall accessories from Lambertson Truex. with smooth black leather trim, ankle boots on crocodile “We’re layering in warm, personal touches,” Lambertson and other leathers look modern. There are satchels that in- said. “You’ll see the subtle differences from city to city.” ventively incorporate no less than three exotic skins: crocodile, ostrich and lizard. There Cathy Leonhardt, managing director at Peter J. Solomon Co., said opening a bou- is also a branding effort noted in larger logos embossed onto the fronts of bags and small tique can strengthen a fl edgling brand, but it also has some drawbacks when it comes nickel logo-laden snaps that are prevalent throughout the line. to existing wholesale accounts. “The fall collection is luxury in its complete form,” Truex said. “We wanted to go “You can control your own destiny when you own it, so you can better showcase in with this whole new breath of newness.” the brand and give the consumer a true perspective on the brand, rather than how a However, there aren’t plans to move into ready-to-wear. “We have to focus on what department store chooses to show it,” she said. “The end game is you build a brand we do best,” he said. “It’s not in the immediate plan.” and if you sell more, it makes the brand. But there’s always the risk that it siphons Lamer said the brand has legs to grow internationally based on its simple, but un- traffi c for the brand out of the [specialty or department ] store. Not every retailer is common, all-American look. always going to have a deluxe rotunda for its product.” “America has its own sense of style,” he said. “A lot of Asians and Europeans Ed Burstell, Bergdorf Goodman’s senior vice president and general merchan- gravitate to an American sensibility. What is key about Lambertson Truex is that the dise manager of beauty, jewelry and accessories, said, “We have a very important products are very clean, modern, chic and sophisticated. We make sure the interiors Lambertson Truex business. There’s a nice synergy sometimes between a retail outlet are very functional. They have everything a woman can need. That comes from an and a fl agship.” American design sense.” Swiss Watch Exports Hit Record Level in 2006

By John Zarocostas by 1.2 percent, generating slightly more than half of However, Europe turned out to be a more dynamic the total increase,” the organization reported. export market last year, with an increase of 12.7 per- GENEVA — Thanks to demand for luxury products in Overall in 2006, wristwatches notched an 11.6 in- cent. France and Germany led the way, with gains of key markets, the value of Swiss watch exports in 2006 crease in value terms; 18-carat gold styles rose 7.6 21.3 percent, to 813.2 million Swiss francs, or $655.8 increased 10.9 percent, to a record 13.7 billion Swiss percent and steel watches advanced 10.3 percent. The million, and 21 percent, to 768.7 million Swiss francs, francs, or about $11 billion. strongest increase in exports was recorded by gold- or $619.9 million, respectively. The annual results were infl uenced greatly “by luxu- plated products, up 59.6 percent, the industry group Double-digit increases were also posted in exports ry products, which showed very strong growth through- said. to the United Arab Emirates, where the value of ship- out 2006,” the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry The U.S. was the top export market destination with ments was up 11.2 percent, to 386.2 million Swiss said. “Wristwatches with a value of more than 3,000 an increase of 6.1 percent, to 2.2 billion Swiss francs, francs, or $311.4 million. [Swiss] francs [export price, $2,403] posted an increase or $1.7 billion, followed by Hong Kong, which regis- Exports to China were up 14.9 percent, to 401.1 of 27 percent by value and 34.7 percent by volume.” tered an 8.9 percent rise to 1.9 billion Swiss francs, or million Swiss francs, or $323.4 million, but increases However, below this price, the value of exported $1.5 billion, and Japan, with a 10.7 percent jump to 1.2 in export sales were below average to Russia, Saudi timepieces “remained stable, while volumes increased billion Swiss francs, or $967 million. Arabia and Taiwan. &-00&0%77*6%+6%2')%:%-0%&0))<'097-:)0=%87%/7*-*8,%:)29) 22 WWD, TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 6, 2007 WWD.COM Throwing a Curve Into N.Y. Retail

By Sharon Edelson decade after opening her popular Curve store in Los Angeles, Nevena Borissova Ahas branched out and launched her second unit in Manhattan. The 1,500-square-foot Curve at 83 Mercer Street is the fraternal twin of Borissova’s boutique on Robertson Boulevard. Although the West Coast Curve looks like a mini- malist art gallery with concrete fl oors, white walls and sunlight streaming in through skylights, the SoHo store went for an English haberdashery feel with oak fl oors, wood moldings, old lampposts, crocodile skin directors’ chairs and animal skin rugs. An old banker’s desk serves as the cash wrap. In Los Angeles, Curve’s clients include Jennifer Lopez, Cameron Diaz, Mischa Barton and Lindsay Lohan. “The whole CAA Rolodex comes here,” Borissova said, referring to the powerful talent agency. In SoHo, early customers include women who own public relations fi rms, attorneys and suburban housewives. The two stores do have some things in common, including a roster of lesser-known designers and a selection of coveted vintage labels such as Chanel, Pucci and Leonard. Borissova believes Curve’s highly trained staff, will set it apart from the other up- scale multidesigner boutiques. Her criticism of some Manhattan rivals is that “sales- people just push big-ticket items. They don’t want to put together a fi ve-piece outfi t. The thing that keeps bringing everyone back to Curve is the free styling.” Barbara Constantin, the manager of Curve in SoHo, added, “We’re helping people fi nd an individual style that’s not based on trends.”

Borissova plans to expand that service in Manhattan. CENTENO TALAYA PHOTOS BY “Next year we’ll start organizing people’s closets,” she said. The store was decorated to look like an Old English men’s club. “We’ll rearrange their closets in a new way with new outfi ts Left: Curve in SoHo features lesser-known European designers. each season.” Not that she’s implying New Yorkers don’t know how to put New York, that’s so saturated. Everyone’s doing the names, themselves together. “Styling is a new thing for New York,” she but no one is doing the young Europeans.” said. “People are very confi dent of their style here.” Albino, a Italian collection; Belgian designer Tim Van Borissova estimated that the SoHo store initially will do Steenbergen, and Paris-based Anne Valerie Hash are favor- sales of $1,000 to $1,500 a square foot. “In L.A., we do $2,000 ites. “I love 6267,” Borissova said. “I buy lines and drop lines a square foot,” she said. “In three years, New York will be and mix them with vintage.” There’s also Curve’s private bigger than L.A.” label, which includes one-of-a-kind mini dresses with lace overlays, priced from $895 to The original store does 80 percent of its sales with 500 customers who spend in the $1,500, and Curve basics, men’s wear-inspired items such as vests with double lapels. thousands of dollars, she said. Inspired by Lori Goldstein’s styling in Italian Vogue, Borissova, then 21, wrote a Curve mixes high and low fashion, Borissova said, although on a recent visit ev- business plan for a fashion boutique. Her ex-boyfriend invested $50,000 in the busi- erything seemed high. There were T-shirts for $50 to a $6,000 collectible Lanvin suit. ness and a producer friend of hers matched it. “I was living off of credit cards, but Constantin said Jenni Kaye is a popular resource for everything from cashmere within six months, I had Curve,” she said. Now that Hollywood and celebrities “drive sweaters to leather trenchcoats and strapless silk dresses. and sell us everything from soap to fashion,” Borissova said she wants “to bring to In Los Angeles, Curve sells Burberry Prorsum, Viktor & Rolf and Valentino, but “in New York a little bit of that Hollywood glamour.” Refi nery29 Adds Commerce Area More Luxe Shops Come to Chicago efinery29, the popular Web site merchandise that is for sale varies. On MAYOR RICHARD DALEY’S CAMPAIGN Rdevoted to reporting about inde- a recent visit, Oak had seven items and to keep Chicago in the style spotlight pendent retailers and designers, has Lyell had 23. Prices range from $29 for seems to be working because the city is launched a shopping component. And a Calida camisole at Mick Margo to a attracting luxury retailers. Jimmy Choo, with magazines blurring the lines be- Shelly Steffee zippered tunic jacket Marina Rinaldi and Roslyn are three of tween editorial and commerce, and for $435. the latest. e-commerce sites offering designer la- “Each store can add more products Jimmy Choo this month unveiled a bels and fashion advice, perhaps it was and we can add more stores,” said 1,500-square-foot fl agship on Oak Street. only a matter of time. von Borries, who was an editor at the “Chicago is a high potential market for “We spotlighted stores and designers Globalist, an online political magazine, us, fi lled with sophisticated and diverse and products, and people started want- before launching Refi nery29 with fi ve clients,” said Tamara Mellon, president ing to buy them,” said Philippe von other people. “We want to expand to 50 and founder of Jimmy Choo. We have Borries, creative director of Refi nery29. stores in the next six months. We have been searching for the perfect location “We never intended to be retailers. very big plans for e-commerce.” for a few years and believe that Oak We’re just facilitating the business for An outlet store planned for the site Street is ideal to best serve our exist- Jimmy Choo’s luxurious Chicago fl agship. those designers we believe in.” will liquidate merchandise for small ing and future clientele.” Designers do their own shipping; companies. “Designers and retailers A spokeswoman for Jimmy Choo said the Chicago store was in the works long Refi nery29 gets a percentage of the kept coming to us with their overstock,” before the company’s sale to TowerBrook Capital Partners LP, an international sales. Stefano said. “They’re too small for the private equity fi rm. The enterprise value of the deal was 185 million pounds, or Strength in numbers is the ratio- discount chains.” $364.5 million at current exchange. nale behind Refi nery29 shops. Each The criteria for choosing design- Last year, Chanel, Scoop, J. Mendel and Ann Fontaine were among the compa- designer on the site could open an on- ers and shops for the online mall is nies opening stores or signing leases to launch units in Chicago. line store, but would miss out on the the same as it is for editorial cover- Choo’s Chicago store, the company’s 21st in the U.S., represents a new design platform’s benefi ts, Van Borries said. age. “The concept and approach must concept for the fi rm’s units worldwide. Inspired by a Forties boudoir, the store “We can drive so much traffi c to their have legs, and while their collections is arranged in salons with velvet-quilted sofas, Ultrasuede-covered chairs, satin- stores,” he said. “There is a benefi t can be small, we look for a strong aes- paneled walls, Lucite display cabinets and crystal chandeliers. Mirrored vitrines for retailers that they’re together with thetic that suggests something new and chrome door handles underscore the brand’s elegant sensibility. The com- other stores that appeal to the same and of interest,” von Borries said, pany plans to open about 70 stores worldwide this year. demographic.” adding that Refinery29’s editorial Chicago is also an important market for Marina Rinaldi, which recently Refi nery29, which averages 700,000 content is independent of shops’ e- opened a 1,300-square-foot unit in the 900 Shops on North Michigan Avenue. The page views per month, is projecting commerce. company, a division of MaxMara, said, “This new store is a result of the compa- sales of $3 million next year for the Refi nery29, which was funded pri- ny’s commitment to this region.” shops, said Justin Stefano, executive vately, has been sustained by advertis- Marina Rinaldi, which offers Italian fashion for women sizes 10 to 22, operates four director. ing revenue until now. “We work with other boutiques in the U.S., on Madison Avenue in New York, Rodeo Drive in Beverly Visitors to the shops area of the Web interactive agencies,” Stefano said. Hills, Heritage on the Garden in Boston and South Coast Plaza in Costa Mesa, Calif. site fi nd the fl oor plan of a mall, albe- “We just ran a big campaign for Nexxus The new store combines stainless steel, white lacquer and chestnut wood. At it a virtual mall. Each of the 13 bou- hair products.” 900 North Michigan Avenue, Marina Rinaldi joins more than 70 stores. The bou- tiques — Steven Alan, In God We Trust, With no traditional fashion training, tique will introduce the spring collection, inspired by everything from Louis XIV Freemans Sporting Club, Eskell, Seize von Borries and Stefano have been free to the shapely silhouettes of the Fifties. sur Vingt, Groupe 16sur20, Oak, Angie to pursue an evolving business model. Roslyn, rather than opening on Michigan Avenue or a tony side street, chose Keefer, Mick Margo, Lyell, Lisa Levine, “Our ambitions for e-commerce are re- the Bucktown area for its debut. The 1,240-square-foot store, owned by Rosie Matter and Shelly Steffee — has its ally high,” von Borries said. Stefano Dulyapaibul, is at 2035 North Damen Avenue in a neighborhood that’s populated own location and store size. Clicking added that their backgrounds “allowed by artists, emerging designers and interesting restaurants. Roslyn features labels on a designer’s store on the map opens us to see the landscape in a way outsid- such as Christopher Deane, Alice Roi, Erica Davies, Sass & Bide, Jovovich-Hawk an informational page with a descrip- ers can’t.” and Vera Wang Lavender. tion of the products. The amount of — S.E. — S.E.

24 WWD, TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 6, 2007 WWD.COM Bush Budget Impacts Industry Programs By Kristi Ellis and Evan Clark Trade Organization. Labor Standards Act and other worker-related laws. ● An increase of $618,000 for three full-time offi cials ● The U.S. International Trade Commission would WASHINGTON — The $2.9 trillion federal budget proposal for the Treasury Department’s Enhanced International receive a $4 million increase, to $67 million, to admin- President Bush sent to Congress Monday, highlighting per- Economic Policy Coordination initiative that supports ister trade remedy laws and provide independent feed- manent tax cuts and spending for the war in Iraq, called high-level meetings with countries like China. Treasury back to the president and Congress. for increases and trims in funding for key industry pro- Secretary Henry Paulson Jr. has made reform of China’s “It’s refl ective of the fact that trade is a big issue and grams involving trade, labor, and port and cargo security. economic and fi scal policies a top priority amid growing that the agencies are being given additional resources The 2008 budget request outlined an elimination or re- bipartisan pressure from Congress. to cover what they need to cover, whether it be on en- duction in spending for 141 programs, saving $12 billion forcement or negotiating trade agreements,” said Erik over fi ve years, as Bush faces opposition from the new Autor, vice president and international trade counsel Democratic-controlled Congress that must approve it. for the National Retail Federation. Democrats said they would push their own budget Baucus said Congress would soon begin debating an priorities, many of which are expected to confl ict with extension of the President’s Trade Promotion Authority the President’s blueprint. The budget seeks to hold the and said the budget should have included funding pro- rate of growth for nonsecurity discretionary spending posals for expanding U.S. export programs, as well as to 1 percent, which is below the rate of infl ation, and “increased assistance to businesses when trade has eliminate the defi cit by 2012. negative effects.” “I strongly believe Congress needs to listen to a bud- Thea Lee, policy director at the AFL-CIO, said, get which has no tax increase, and a budget, because “There are a lot of areas that need more money and we of fi scal discipline, that can be balanced in fi ve years,” see continued priority on tax cuts for the wealthy at a Bush told reporters. time when many important labor protections are being Sen. Max Baucus (D., Mont.), chairman of the Senate shortchanged,” citing health and safety, and child-labor Finance Committee, said, “In some places, this budget initiatives. shows vision and in some places, the President’s eyes One of the more dramatic cuts was the $59 million are shut tight to this country’s fi scal reality.” decrease in funding for Labor’s International Labor Among the proposed budget items affecting the fash- Copies of the fi scal 2008 federal budget await pick-up at the Affairs Bureau that supports efforts to eliminate child ion industry are: Government Printing Offi ce in Washington on Monday. labor abroad and provides technical assistant to foreign ● A 31 percent increase, to $10.1 billion, for the governments. U.S. Customs & Border Protection division of the ● A $4 million boost, to $63 million, for the Commerce “It’s a little bit of a dance now that happens — Bush Department of Homeland Security, responsible for pro- Department’s Import Administration that investigates slashes, Congress puts most of it back,” Lee said. tecting ports and border entry points and overseeing antidumping and countervailing duty trade cases, and The ILAB reduction represents the elimination private-public supply chain security initiatives. tracks apparel and textile imports. of grants for international child labor, said a Labor ● A $59 million cut, to $14 million, for the Labor ● Commerce’s Manufacturing & Services program Department spokesman for the program. He said this Department’s International Labor Affairs Bureau. would receive a $2 million funding rise to $49 million to would still leave ILAB’s Offi ce of Child Labor, Forced ● An additional $5 million to $44 million for the help U.S. producers and service providers compete. Labor & Human Traffi cking with more than 120 active Offi ce of the U.S. Trade Representative, responsible ● Labor’s Wage & Hour program would get another projects in over 75 countries. Much of the funding goes to for negotiating trade deals and working with the World $17 million, to a total of $187 million, to enforce the Fair the International Labor Organization, based in Geneva. Simon Property Group Jumps Into Mix With Bid for Mills Corp. By Amy S. Choi They’re not the only ones. Brookfi eld landed the Farallon,” he wrote in a research note. Mills merger only after feuding with Israeli real es- Though some of Mills’ lesser-quality centers don’t fi t AT WHAT PRICE MILLS? tate company Gazit-Globe and Farallon, both of which with Simon’s portfolio, the shoppertainment theme of Simon Property Group, the largest mall owner in offered competing plans to recapitalize the company. many of Mills’ larger projects doesn’t necessarily dictate the U.S., is challenging the $7.5 billion sale of the Mills Brookfi eld’s offer includes $21 per share, assumed a shift in Simon’s development direction, said Moore. Corp. to Brookfi eld Asset Management with a bid of its debt and preferred stock. Simon, however, promises “Tenants are crossing over between the various own. On Monday, Simon offered to pay $24 per share in to sweeten the deal for Mills’ shareholders by offer- property types at a rapid pace,” he said. “Tenants in cash, or roughly $1.56 billion, for the plagued company. ing more per share and paying out shareholders six lifestyle centers are going to community centers, out- Analysts praised the Simon bid as the most logical. months before Brookfi eld would. let concepts are going to regional malls. Simon can Mills stock price leaped with the news, closing up 16.8 According to Simon and Farallon’s letter to Mills, take each one of the Mills’ properties and maximize percent to $25.87 at end of trading Monday. Simon’s sent Monday, the new proposal reduces deal risk and the value individually.” stock closed up 1.1 percent to $116.27. could equal a benefi t of at least $1 per share to the “We like the deal strategically,” wrote Nussbaum. Simon partnered with Mills’ largest shareholder, shareholders. “Simon has the proven ability to maximize the value hedge fund Farallon Capital Management, on the bid. “Simon is the most logical buyer of the portfolio,” of the Mills portfolio, which has been capital starved Each of them will contribute $650 million in equity to said Richard Moore, managing director of equity re- and neglected the past two years. We’d expect Simon/ fi nance the deal, which would include 38 retail prop- search at RBC Capital Markets. “There’s just so many Farallon to also sell off some of the weaker assets.” erties comprising some 47 million square feet of space. synergies for a landlord when you have that many Though General Growth, Westfi eld Group and Mace- The real estate investment trust has co-developed or properties. Why would Simon, or General Growth, rich Co. could also place bids for the company, it seems managed several of the properties currently under the or any others let Brookfi eld take that portfolio when unlikely, say analysts. Brookfi eld could also raise its Mills banner, while Farallon already owns 10.9 percent Brookfi eld doesn’t have any regional malls?” offer to spark off a bidding war. Though both diversifi ed of the outstanding common shares of Mills. Bank of America senior equity analyst Ross REIT Vornado Realty Trust and Blackstone Group ex- “Simon is comfortable with the real estate and has Nussbaum was more blunt in his assessment of the pressed an interest in Mills when the company fi rst put great familiarity with properties,” said a spokesperson deal. “We believe the Mills board will have no choice itself up for sale, neither are expected to join the game for the partnership. “They believe they can maximize but to terminate the existing merger agreement with now, as both are embroiled in their own $40 billion bid- the value of the portfolio.” Brookfi eld and enter into a new one with Simon/ ding war for Equity Offi ce Properties.

Distributors, Model Reorg Inc., Glenn Nussdorf, Michael spect to damages, Gromwell respectfully disagrees with Katz, Joshua Angel, Anthoney D’Agostino, Neil Katz and the referee’s conclusions and is reviewing its options.” Robert Mitzman. Quality King and its affi liates proposed M.M.P. Inc. fi led a copyright infringement lawsuit to replace the current Parlux board with the named in- against Forever 21 in Los Angeles federal court on Jan. dividual defendants, according to court papers. Parlux 29. M.M.P., which does business as Fabrics & Fabrics, al- alleged that the proposal was a bid to seize control of leged that Forever 21 sold a woman’s blouse and woman’s Parlux’s board and was illegal under federal antitrust dress that infringed on one of its fabric designs. M.M.P. laws. Nussdorf sent material to Parlux stockholders ask- alleged in its complaint that Forever 21 “intentionally ing for approval to remove all the board members and copies fabric designs in furtherance of its business strat- NEW YORK — V.E.W. and VWK Licensing are seeking replace them with himself and the other defendants on egy of copying the latest fashions and selling them for a declaratory judgment that the Vera Wang brands set Jan. 18. Nussdorf did not return calls seeking comment. inexpensive prices.” M.M.P. asked the court to restrain to be sold exclusively at Kohl’s do not infringe on an- A court-appointed special referee recommended Forever 21 from infringing on its copyrights and for un- other trademark. According to court documents filed in $742,291 in damages for alleged contempt in a Supreme specifi ed damages. Forever 21 could not be reached for Manhattan federal court Jan. 25, the licensing compa- Court lawsuit fi led by staffi ng agency 24 Seven Inc. and comment by press time. nies asked the court to declare that the Very Vera and 24 Seven Online Inc. against The Gromwell Group Inc., Nicole Miller fi led a copyright infringement lawsuit Simply Vera marks do not infringe on the “Vera” trade- Gromwell I.T. Inc., Gromwell Staffi ng Inc., Gromwell against Rubber Ducky Productions Inc. in Manhattan mark owned by Atlanta-based The Vera Company. V.E.W. Te m p s Inc., Gromwell Information Technology LLC, federal court on Jan. 24. Nicole Miller alleged that and VWK Licensing asked the court to declare its right Gromwell LLC and affi liated individuals. The case was re- Rubber Ducky manufactured and sold dresses bearing to use its Vera Wang trademarks. The Vera Co. could not ferred to the referee by a New York Supreme Court judge designs that infringed on its Africa and Tiki designs. The be reached for comment. to determine if the defendants had violated two tempo- complaint also names stores that sold the allegedly in- Parlux Fragrances fi led a lawsuit against some of rary restraining orders and failed to provide documents fringing dresses. The complaint asked the court for an its competitors for a consent solicitation to install di- to 24 Seven. “Gromwell regrets the conduct that led to injunction and unspecifi ed fi nancial damages. Rubber rectors at the company that allegedly was misleading. this decision and has taken steps to address this matter,” Ducky could not be reached for comment. The lawsuit was fi led on Jan. 23 against Quality King said David Bolton, the attorney for Gromwell. “With re- — Liza Casabona

26 WWD, TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 6, 2007 WWD.COM Textile & Trade Report Unica Exhibitors Banking on Innovation and Quality By Stephanie Epiro “It’s a golden moment for jersey right now and it’s important for us to keep propos- ing it differently,” said Guido Capelli, product manager for Dondi Group. MILAN — Italian textile mills are focusing on producing higher-quality products and Based in Carpi, the mill experimented with new jerseys for spring and summer ramping up efforts to put a new spin on popular jersey and viscose fabrics as they woven from ultrafi ne cotton, cupro and silk to give liquid-like structure. As an al- head into next week’s Milano Unica trade show. ternative to using metal fi bers that produced a jersey that was uncomfortable on the The fourth edition of the combined fabric shows Moda In, Prato Expo, Ideacomo, skin, Dondi Group mixed viscose with polyester to produce the same shiny effects. Shirt Avenue and Ideabiella will run at Milan city’s fairgrounds from Feb. 13 to 16. Capelli said the mill also wove some jacquards with fl oral and geometric designs. Textile collections for summer 2008 will be presented by 681 mostly Italian exhibi- Lanifi cio del Casentino worked with textile structure to create a collection of fl uid tors, who have been buoyed by an improved economic climate for the Italian textile fabrics in silk, cotton and linen in pearly hues of gray, white and pink. industry, driven by a growing desire for more expensive luxury fabrics. Many textile “Shiny and opaque looks to fabrics are in right now,” said Alfi o Aldrovandi, general manufacturers are opting to boost the quality and feel of traditional luxury fabrics director of Lanifi cio del Casentino. “There has to be some movement to the fabric, through new technology. Riding the crest of the trend for jersey in the fashion indus- which we do with the weave. Manufacturers want clean-look textiles that aren’t as try, specialist Dondi Group closed 2006 with a 25 percent rise in sales, to 20 million washed as they were in the past.” euros, or $25.1 million at average exchange. For extra shine, the mill developed a fi lmy transparent plastic coating in silver, gold and bronze that was applied to some jacquards. “It’s very subtle and it resists many machine washes,” said Aldrovandi, add- ing that the mill, which increased volume by 20 percent in 2006, was slowly re- gaining lost ground in the market, after it reorganized its internal structure and upped the quality of its fabrics. Shiny and opaque textile looks are also part of Verona-based Gruppo Bonazzi’s spring-summer fabric collection. Elisabetta Gaspari, brand manag- er for the mill, said its new viscose and cotton blend fabrics, part of its casual Esmeralda textile line, created contrasting glistening and matte effects when woven together. The fabrics were piece-dyed in cold pastel tones. The mill also created some cotton and nylon stretch jacquard fabrics that displayed oversize fl orals and geometrics in strawberry, red and orange. For sportswear, Gruppo Bonazzi offered the cotton and nylon blend in athletic colors popular in the Eighties, such as red, green and sunfl ower yellow. Viscose was woven into a georgette jacquard featuring large leaf designs in Gruppo Bonazzi’s more sophisticated Luck line that also features linen com- bined with polyester for a lamé look. “With this fabric, it’s all about the touch,” Gaspari said. “Traditional lamés have a scratchy feel. This blend makes it very tactile and it isn’t uncomfortable to wear.” The mill started 2007 well, thanks to viscose’s popularity. Other mills also noted the rise in demand for viscose fabrics. Viscose specialist Jackytex pre- pared several new types, including one woven tightly to give a satin sheen. The Tuscany-based mill worked with new viscose and nylon and viscose and cotton jacquard designs of gigantic fl orals, micro geometrics similar to those in men’s neckwear and dévoré-like effects. A trend area at “All of the jacquards are woven with dyed yarns, so the colors are very in- Milano Unica. tense and give shiny and matte results to the fabric, depending on the composi- tion,” said Piero Giacci, co-chief executive offi cer of Jackytex. Giacci said viscose’s popularity was due to garment manufacturers not limit- ing the fabric for tops, and also using it for pants, skirts and outerwear. Giacci, Cotton blends from Bonazzi. who recently visited the family-owned mill’s New York offi ce, said the company had sold more of its viscose textiles in America in the past year and hoped to increase sales there again in 2007. “Our margins there are much less, though, especially with the dollar value slipping again,” he said. “Yes, we want to grow there, but it’s important for us just to keep a tight relationship with our clients.” Fedora, based in Prato, is also focused on its U.S. market in 2007. Last year, 30 million euros, or about $39 million, of the mill’s overall 70 million euros, or $90 million, in sales were attributed to the U.S. This year, the mill will start produc- ing some basic fabrics in China and India to serve U.S. clients better. “It’s not easy producing Italian product outside of Italy, but we have to do it,” said Giorgio Silli, vice president of Fedora. “Most of U.S. garment manufacturing is in those countries, so it makes it easier.” The mill will present some shiny viscose satins and glossy cotton and polyes- ter blends from its high-end fabric line at Unica. The weakness of the dollar versus the euro also affected early 2007 sales for Lanifi cio Lamberto, another Prato mill. “I am sure we would have been able to sell fi ve times as much textiles to the U.S. if it weren’t for this dramatic dollar,” said Raffaele Riela, vice president and U.S. market manager for Lanifi cio Lamberto. Riela said the mill had tailored some of its new collection to its U.S. clients, Fedora’s brown check viscose after it sold viscose and cotton jacquards well last season. To that end, Lanifi cio blend, pink cashmere blend and a Lamberto included more jacquards with a Lycra spandex or elastane stretch that Viscose blends from Jackytex. 100 percent cotton tartan. PHOTOS BY DAVIDE MAESTRI DAVIDE PHOTOS BY were overprinted with fl oral patterns and embroidered.

28 WWD, TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 6, 2007 WWD.COM Textiles & Trade Pitti Filati Vendors See Snags From Weak Dollar, Rising Costs

By Stephanie Epiro After selling carded cashmere well for winter 2008, Botto Poala Iafi l’s 100 percent spun an extrafi ne carded cashmere yarn for spring-summer in 50 pima cotton fabrics. FLORENCE — Despite the recovery of the Italian yarn industry last colors for its stock service. year, many mills exhibiting at last week’s Pitti Filati trade show ex- “The luxury market is dictating cashmere to be more fi ne and pressed concerns about tough comparisons for 2007. more exclusive, so that’s what we have put in our stock service,” After several years of negative growth and dropping sales, 2006 Botto Poala said. marked a turnaround for the industry, which increased sales by 1.3 The collection also included a silk, polyester and polyamide percent, to 3.5 billion euros, or $4.39 billion at average exchange, blend. according to SMI-ATI, the Italian federation of textile and clothing Iafi l combined linen with mercerized pima cotton to get a crisp industries. feel and created a soft lamé yarn from a blend of linen and polyam- Although many of the 116 exhibitors at the yarn fair agreed that ide in a range of pale blues. In December, the spinner inaugurated 2006 was a better year, some said achieving similar results this year a knitwear laboratory with 18 knitting machines in its Milan factory, would be more diffi cult in light of an increase in raw materials pric- where clients can request test garments knitted with Iafi l yarns. es and the relative weakness of the U.S. dollar versus the euro. “It’s a customer service tool that also shows exactly what our “It’s really hard to work with clients when the dollar is 1.3 to the yarns can do,” said Stefano Salvaneschi, president of Iafi l. euro,” said Silvio Botto Poala, director of Botto Poala, which in- To cater to a growing number of clients that want value-added creased sales in 2006 by 20 percent, to 53 million euros, or $66 mil- yarns, the spinner also launched a 100 percent organic pima lion. Peruvian yarn called Herb, which was colored with 12 plant and veg- Stefano Borsini, president of Igea, said, “The price of cashmere etable dyes, including onion, ivy, madder and licorice, Salvaneschi and wool has increased, wool by as much as 40 percent. That really said. puts the brakes on clients ordering wool-blend yarns.” Filpucci also introduced an organic cotton yarn. The spinner Most appeared resigned about the future of the Italian yarn in- packaged BioRe cotton, sourced from India and Tanzania, into dustry. hand-knitting kits that came with sachets of natural dye made from “It’s become more and more diffi cult,” said Leandro Gualtieri, pomegranate zest, walnut mallow and Brazil wood, plus a fi xing president of Filpucci. “We will never have glory days of 2002 again. powder to set the color. Filpucci also presented a line of shiny vis- More or less, this is what the market will be from now on.” cose yarns blended with silk, nylon and hemp. The spinner is set to Many executives noted visitors from Asian countries weren’t launch its second collection produced by its Filpucci Zjg mill, based present because show dates were close to the Chinese New Year in Zhangjiagang, China, where its factory has operated since July. and Shanghai’s Spin Expo yarn fair. The overall number of visitors “It’s been a very intense start-up, but with this mill, we hope to reached more than 5,300, compared with 5,269 last year, organizers regain some ground lost on Japanese and U.S. markets,” Gualtieri reported. said. Yarn trends for spring and summer 2008 included a mix of ul- Lanifi cio Del’Olivo showed a collection of mirror-like silver and trafi ne cotton, viscose and linen, lamé spun from new blends for a green yarns spun from viscose and twisted with polyamide and makò softer hand, and organic cotton. cotton. Loro Piana came to Pitti Filati with 10 new yarns, breaking from “We’ve managed to give these lamé yarns a really soft hand and its traditional cashmere blends to present a mix of hemp, cotton, that’s what makes them new,” said Chiara Taddeucci Sassolini, prod- Metallic gray and yellow silk and linen yarns with a crepe hand. Mercerized silk was twisted uct manager for the mill. silk blends and a linen into a mock mélange yarn, while other linen-silk blends when knit- Shiny yarns were also featured in Igea’s collection, in ultrafi ne fabric from Botto Poala. ted had plissé and lace looks. viscose and nylon blends in bronze, gray and beige.

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For more information on advertising, contact Jay Spaleta, publisher, ™ at 212-630-4831, or your WWD sales representative. WWDStyle Starts Here 30 WWD, TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 6, 2007 WWD.COM/CLASSIFIEDS

Production Mgr $80-100K BOE. Current exp in better womens or mens denim sprtswr req’d. Domestic + import. From inception to completion. Strong knowl. of construction of denim fabric. Washes, Spring & Summer Close Out Wanted scheduling, etc. [email protected] Men’s, Women’s & Children’s Clothing. Big quantities if possible. Budget to Ann Taylor is a premier American specialty apparel retailer for the professional Production Patternmaker Moderate pricing. CALL OR EMAIL: Jim woman. Over our 50 year heritage we have become a well-known resource for Established updated, fast paced, missy at 212-997-7487 or [email protected] contemporary co w/ large private label quality suits, separates, dresses, shoes & accessories with a feminine, polished div seeks experienced Prod Pattern- approach to updated classic style. maker. Must be able to work from Tech Pak, give sewing instructions & COME JOIN OUR LOFT MERCHANDISING TEAM! have knowledge of factory procedures. Great atmosphere w/ excellent benefits. MERCHANDISERS Fax your resume to: 212-221-1353 CLOSE OUTS These exciting Apparel and Non-Apparel ANN TAYLOR LOFT opportunities involve: Receptionist/Jr. Fit Model We Buy Men’s, • Driving business strategies to meet or exceed dept financial objectives. Jr. importer seeks energetic, personable Women’s & Children’s • Building a collection that is consistently client focused & brand appropriate in individual to take care of all office needs, All Quantities as well as assist our designers in fittings. collaboration with functional partners. Must be Junior size medium. E-mail WE HAVE INSTANT MONEY resumes to: [email protected] We are nice people to deal with Please apply directly to: www.AnnTaylorCareers.com . EOE Also HBA and General Merchandise. RETAIL LIAISON Call Rocky 800-762-5488 Major women’s apparel manufacturer ART STUDIO MANAGER in Philadelphia area seeks articulate and intelligent individual for retailer liaison position. Position requires daily !"TEXTILES ! interaction with internal sales reps and Textile Print Converter located in Soho has an immediate opening for a buying offices of major dept. and spe- cialty store retailers. Strong problem Studio Manager who is organized, has great memory and prior mgmt. exp. solving and organizational skills required. Job duties include- customer/mill liaison, working closely with Experience as a sales rep or buyer in apparel field preferred. Strong computer production/converting dept, assorting open line, assist Head Stylist. skills a must. Excellent benefits, com- petitive salary. Email resumes to: Excellent communications skills & stable temperament a must! Creative [email protected] Search For Space In Garment Center background preferable. Salary will commensurate with experience. Showroom/Office/Retail - no fee www.midcomre.com Please email resumes to: [email protected] SAMPLE MAKER Or Call Paul 212 947-5500 X 100 Established eveningwear firm seeks experienced sample maker. Showrooms & Lofts FASHION FACULTY FAX RESUME TO : 212-658-9416 BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS Private College seeks faculty for SPEC TECHNICIAN NEEDED Great ’New’ Office Space Avail ARCHITECT Fashion Program. Ph.D Degree preferred, Individual must have experience in fit, ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 Master’s degree required, along with spec. development, grading, & flat sketch bonetti/kozerski studio significant industry exp. Knowledge of for Juniors, Children’s and Plus sizes. textiles, product development, buying, Must have pattern-making, Photoshop & Seeks Architect for high profile visual merchandising, merchandise Illustrator exp. Fax or email Attn Joe: retail projects/rollouts - 5 yrs exp. planning and control. Send resume to: 212-997-7441 or [email protected] DESIGN ASSISTANT Please email resume to FASHION SEARCH TD’s TD’s TD’s TD’s TD’s Need talented & dynamic recent grad [email protected] Berkeley College with proficient computer skills in 44 Rifle Camp Road I NEED TD’S!! Photoshop & Illustrator for ladies better West Paterson, NJ 07424 *TD Dir. Jeanswr-Supervise 30 $125-$150K sportswear company. Great work DESIGNER Fax: 973-278-0080 *TD MGR-Jeans-Supervise 3 $90-$100K atmosphere & benefits. Please e-mail Email: [email protected] *TD Contemp Bridge $90-$110K Major Intimate Apparel Mfr seeks a Exp with high end products Account Executive resumes to: [email protected] Designer for Girls mass market div. EQUAL OPPORTUNITY EMPLOYMENT Luxury Italian brand seeks highly *TD Young Edgy Designer $80-$85K Design Must be creative, motivated, organized *NJ Tech Designer-PDM $80-$85K motivated sales pro to join NY team & detail oriented. Resp. include: all to drive & grow specialty store sales FITTER - Seamstress/Tailor *TD Vintage Clothing/Washes $75K PATTERN/SAMPLES Associate Designer phases of Private Label & Licensed *JR Tech Moderate Sportswear $45K in the Northeast & New York region. line dev/presentations w/Asso. Design- Seeking Alterations Expert exp’d. with Reliable. High quality. Low cost. Fast Sweater & Knit Co. seeks private label gowns & suits. English a plus references [email protected] 212-947-3400 Candidate must be ambitious, have designer w/ 3+ years exp in sweaters. er and communicating with overseas work. Small/ Lrg production 212-629-4808 excellent presentation, effective com- office, factories & account. Illustrator req’d. Please Fax or E-mail resumes to: TECH Must be spec proficient w/ strong CAD 212-888-6137 / [email protected] munication & good analytical skills. sketching skills in Color Matters soft- exp & computer literatacy a must. Extensive road travel required; Some travel required. Great company Assistant Tech Design PATTERNS, SAMPLES, ware. Email resumes w/ salary require- Patternmaker Magaschoni Apparel Group/ knowledge of RTW a plus. Competi- ments to [email protected]. & full benefits. PRODUCTIONS tive salary & benefits commensurate Fax: Attn: S. Stevens: (212) 842-4020 Freelance Patternmaker Global Wise Development with experience & skills. Email: [email protected] EOE. Bridal & Eveningwear Co. is seeking a Candidates must be able to accurately All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. Send resume & salary requirement: spec knit and woven samples, receive Call Sherry 212-719-0622. part time freelance patternmaker to [email protected] Design Director work directly with the designers in /send samples to overseas offices, book Designer/ Merchandise fittings with agencies and support the Acct. Chief Financial Officer to $200- B2X, an importer / manufacturer with creating new sample patterns. Must a strong Chinese production base has Sourcing have an extensive background in tech designer with various duties. Must $250K BOE. Current exp in min 80 mil be fully computer literate, knowledge PATTERNS, SAMPLES, vol apparel co nec. Supervise controller + a 100K position open for a talented Farmingdale, Long Island Fashion draping & patternmaking. Please fax design director in the Junior or Missy Accessory company looking for talented resume to 212-242-0771 or email to of webpdm helpful but not necessary, PRODUCTIONS all accounting personnel. Midtown co. must have 2-4 years experience. Email: [email protected] markets. Exp working with Chinese & experienced merchandise & creative [email protected] Full service shop to the trade. factories is a plus. Please e-mail designers to work in Farmingdale loca- Please e-mail resumes to: Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. resume to: [email protected] tion. F/T & P/T positions available. Planning [email protected] ASSOC DESIGNER $55K F/T person must be willing to travel to or Fax: (509) 757-7814 Jr. & Young Mens Denim Asia & Europe w/ mgt team. Travel [email protected] Designer $80-100K Current exp in Jr. + experience a plus. MAC computer Tech Design/ Trim/ Prod. young mens denim collection. skills, photoshop, Illustrator required. Preppy, non urban fashion vision. Fast paced, expanding ladies wear mfg 973-564-9236 or [email protected] Please send resume w/sal requirement with great benefits seeks experienced ANN TAYLOR is a premier American candidates. Excel experts. Work well to: George @ (631) 789-8989 or email specialty apparel retailer for the profes- to: [email protected]. under pressure with sense of urgency. Designer sional woman. Over our 50 year heritage Tech Designer : pattern making exp, DESIGNER we have become a well-known resource grading, strong communication skill in ASST PRODUCTION ASSOCIATE DESIGNER for quality suits, separates, dresses, Established, fast-paced private label South Florida Handbag fit corrections and technical sketch. COORDINATOR / QC shoes & accessories with a feminine, Trim Coordinator: create trim sheets, company is looking for an associate Company Seeks Product polished approach to updated classic Contemporary collection, dress & level designer w/ a degree in Fashion strong follow up skills and color sense, swim co seeks detailed & organized Development Designer style. Come join our PLANNING familiar w/ labeling / packaging, private Design. Must be able to work MANAGEMENT Team! indiv with garment, fit & construction independently, possess great follow Candidate will develop product line. label experience a plus. knowledge. Duties include scheduling, through skills, and have the ability to Must be detail oriented team player, Prod Trainee: basic garment construction/ tracking, QC & daily contact w/ domestic flat sketch & illustrate. The ideal have flair for fashion and head for STORE PLANNING spec knowledge, detail oriented, ex- factories. Must be liaison between design candidate will have experience in business. Willing to travel a lot, know tremely organized. & production. 1-3 yrs exp required. both wovens and knits, with a focus Illustrator, Photoshop, MS, have great MANAGER Please fax resume to 212-302-3872 Please fax resume or email to: on print/embroidery development. communication skills. Exp w/ catalogs 212-719-0745 or [email protected] and marketing helpful. Required: BS TECHNICAL DESIGNERS $HI Proficiency in Illustrator and ALLOCATION 1) Missy-Jrs.-Kids 2) C/S Knits or Wovens Photoshop required. in business or fashion & min 2 yrs work exp. Salary commensurate with MANAGER 3) Sweaters 4) All Level Positions Bookkeeper - F/C Fax resume Attn:MAS (212) 302-1856 education & exp. Please fax or email Call (212)643-8090 Fax (212)643-8127 AGCY Leather garment mfr./importer in Mid- resume & references to 954-920-3312 These exciting ANN TAYLOR LOFT town Manhattan seeks bookkeeper w/ or [email protected] Planning Management opportunities garment center exp. Strong computer require: Technical Designer DESIGNER Sweater & Knit Co. seeks missy tech skills, G/L, A/R, A/P, P/R req’d. Start Est’d missy sweater/knit importer seeks DESIGNER immediately. Send resume/salary hist. • Develop allocation strategy & design designer w/ 4+ years exp. Req’d creative designer to work in fast paced SWEATER DESIGNER patternmaking exp., grading & strong Fax: 201-848-0465 or environment. Must be detail oriented, • Implement plans that support the E-mail: [email protected] A better manufacturer of Women’s communications skills in spec fit cor- work independently & take direction Branded & Private Label Sportswear merchandising, marketing and rections. Computer Excel exp a must. well. Technical skills & min 3 yrs. exp. seeks technical sweater designer with financial objectives of the brand Email resumes w/ salary requirements req’d. Excellent oppty for the right min 2 yrs import experience. Must be to: [email protected] person! Fax resume to: (212) 302.5184 proficient in flat sketching and CAD ARTIST or Call Lisa: (212) 302-3744 or E-mail PLEASE APPLY DIRECTLY TO: Exp in Intimates & U4ia/Ned Graphics specing, be knowledgeable in sweater [email protected] www.anntaylorcareers.com TRIM ASSISTANT Required. Good Eye for stitches, yarns, and construction.Will Apparel Company seeks individual to be send tech packs to factories for Sleepwr/Loungewr Prints/Patterns Equal Opportunity Employer. assist in Trim Department. [email protected] sweater development and follow through to production, including gen- PLEASE FAX RESUME: 212-658-9416 DESIGNER erating grades specs for bulk, Couture Salesperson Junior knitwear co. seeks creative indiv. making fit and trim comments, and Production Assistant with at least 4-6 years of experience in sourcing yarns. Fax: 212-382-0237 Textile co. seeks exp’d self-starter to and Stylist cut/ sew market. Must be detail & oversee all aspects of production & Highest level Custom Couture company technically oriented, team player communication w/ oversees suppliers. seeking Sales Specialist. Must have strong computer graphics skills and Textile background a must. Detail extensive experience working with ability to work under tight deadline. FABRIC COORDINATOR oriented, organized w/ good follow-up private clients and top specialty stores. Knowledge of Photoshop, Illustrator & Growing L.I. sportswear co. seeks ex- skills. Fluent in Korean. Fax resume & Qualified candidates, please fax excel a must. Please forward resume perienced, detailed oriented individual salary requirements to 212-768-0799. resumes to (212) 239-3432 with salary expectations to: to handle all production, fabric purchas- Email:[email protected] ing, receiving & follow up. Will maintain delivery schedule and communication Defi ning style. DESIGN- 2+ yrs exp designing Infants daily with vendors. Computer experi- PRODUCTION to 7 Boys sets/ sweaters/ MAC - Illus is DESIGNER ence a must, Aria a plus. Please e-mail COORDINATOR nec/ do graphics/ specs/ etc. $50-60K resumes to: [email protected] Delivering results. Les Richards Agcy Call (212) 221-0870 Junior & Plus Size Growing L.I. based sportswear co. seeks Seeking a full time junior and plus experienced, detail oriented individual #1 Fashion Resume Expert size fashion designer. Min of 8 years to handle off shore production, manage Staff Thru Executive-Wholesale/Retail experience with junior fashion. Travel multiple factories & coordinate production Design Assistant Fabric/Trim Coord $65K first through final. Will have daily cor- Call 800-423-3314 or e-mail Free Evaluation - Lifetime Updates domestic and international a must. Coord, Allocate & Administrate Dom/Int’l GILBERT CAREER RESUMES Better Sportswear company seeks Exp in working with overseas factories respondence & follow up with factories & fpclassifi [email protected] highly motivated, organized, willing *Asst Fabric Buyer to $45K maintain wip report. Excellent Excel skills, (800)967-3846 amex/mc/visa & fabric suppliers. Computer literate. *Asst Trim Buyer to $40K fashionresumes.com assistant with fashion degree. Fax resume to: (800) 866-1085 Aria a plus. Please email resumes to: to advertise. E-mail: [email protected] [email protected] 212-947-3400 [email protected] WWD, TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 6, 2007 31 WWD.COM Tween Hits Roadblock Shiseido Products Enter RFID Era By Denise Power ther. There, RFID readers track how frequently In Canada Growth Plan lipsticks, mascaras and other cosmetics testers wo Mitsukoshi department stores are testing — 49 items in all — are removed and sampled, MONTREAL — Tween Brands Inc. faces a challenge in its desire TRFID-tagged makeup, yielding data to forecast con- to expand into Canada. lipsticks and lotions from sumer demand. A “virtual “We thought we would open our fi rst store last year, but it Shiseido to engage various real-time makeup system” never happened because we haven’t been able to fi nd desirable shopper psyches, from brows- enables shoppers to “try on” locations,” said Robert Atkinson, vice president of investor rela- er to buyer and beyond. 19 products without actually tions at Limited Too in New Albany, Ohio, which, along with sis- The tests conclude next applying them, through digi- ter chain Justice, is owned by Tween Brands. “We began to look week and incorporate social tal photography and comput- at the Canadian market about nine months ago, but right now we computing, demand forecast- er simulation. have no leases signed.” ing, computer simulation, A test within this test in- The retailer wants to tap the Canadian market because it sees clienteling and supply chain volves 50 shoppers and Clé little competition in the seven- to 14- year-old age range apart management. Radio frequen- de Peau Beauté sales staff from La Senza Girl, owned by lingerie retailer La Senza. Limited cy identifi cation technology equipped with RFID-read- Brands, which sold Too Inc. and its Limited Too chain in 1999, has been tested in cosmetics ing tablet computers. The agreed in November to acquire La Senza. Too Inc. was renamed before, but not in such a mul- computers access customer- Tween Brands. tipurpose fashion. specific shopping history Limited Too has 560 stores in the U.S., and the lower-price “We are implementing that helps personalize the Justice has 160. Atkinson wants to open about 50 of each in Canada, a different application on experience while document- although Limited Too is the priority. The stores would average 4,100 each process consumers go ing through RFID which square feet, be corporately owned and carry the same merchandise through to buy cosmetics in items the shopper has sam- as stores in the U.S., 85 percent sportswear, Atkinson said. the store and use at home,” pled. The test includes an “We’re looking primarily at suburban malls, and there are lots Mitsukoshi project leader in-store, simulated home of malls we would love to be in, starting with Toronto’s Eaton Akihiko Ikeura explained via environment to study how Center,” he said. “But there’s just no space available.” e-mail. “We intend to verify shoppers would use RFID to The stores would be located in the seven largest markets how this RFID tag system will access product information in Canada, some of them downtown because the urban core in improve customer satisfac- after leaving the store. Canada is “much more vibrant than in the U.S.,” Atkinson said. tion [and] sales promotion.” Inventory management Limited Too would go over well in Canada because it has “a Wave an RFID-tagged tes- benefi ts will be studied also, really cool retail concept,” said analyst Kaileen Millard at The ter past a reader in the Tokyo and Shiseido will affi x RFID NPD Group in Toronto. “I notice a lot of tweens shopping in la- and Nagoya Mitsukoshi stores tags to 10 products. “RFID is dies’ stores, so they could do very well here.” and up pops consumer-au- particularly valuable in prod- Apparel purchases by tweens in Canada have increased 8 thored product reviews on uct categories that see a lot of percent since 2000, although that fi gure declined in all other age that item, a powerful social new product introductions. categories, Millard said. computing tactic. The re- Cosmetics is one such catego- The favorite place to shop for nine-year-olds is Children’s views, from Tokyo-based From top: The test explores how shoppers ry,” said Marshall Kay, North Place, followed by La Senza and Old Navy, and for 13-year-olds, iStyle’s cosmetics Web sites, might use RFID at home to access product America RFID practice lead- it’s La Senza, Gap and Old Navy, she added. are displayed on touch-screen information; Product testers are equipped er, Kurt Salmon Associates. A 2005 tween report by YTV, the Canadian youth cable televi- computers from Fujitsu, a with RFID to track popularity of various items. “Having a means to know the sion channel, said 2.5 million youngsters in Canada between the key test partner. At Shiseido product is getting to the right ages of seven and 14 account for $2.9 billion in retail purchases; counters, shoppers access detailed information on place at the right time is extremely powerful.” 41 percent is spent on clothing by girls and 14 percent by boys. seven skin care products through RFID. The Mitsukoshi test is sponsored by the Minis- — Brian Dunn The Tokyo store’s test takes RFID a little fur- try of Economy, Trade and Industry of Japan.

Retail SALESPERSON SALES ASSOCIATES Full-Time Lisa International HIGHEST COMMISSIONS PAID!! GREAT SALES OPPORTUNITY! Exp’d Salesperson to sell ladies Sports- Escada (USA) Inc., an EXCITING! wear, Sweaters & Knits. Min. 5 yrs. exp. high end retailer is committed to hiring Please send resume to S. Sadaka at: qualified individuals with a strong Sales - Girls’ Jeans Sportswear Fax: (212) 302-5184 or E-mail fashion background and an inherent Experienced sales professional [email protected] sense of style. We currently have opportunities available for Full-Time needed to drive sales of a SALES ASSOCIATES at our vertical Girls-Jeans sportswear SALES PROFESSIONAL MANHASSET BOUTIQUE. Co. Must have exp. with major Well known Gift Co. seeks motivated Candidates must possess 2-3 years of specialty, dept. and national Sales Exec w/min. 5 years experience high-end retail experience. If you to maintain existing account structure, would like to be part of our team chain retailers. Min. 3-5 yrs as well as develop new business. Well recognized for excellence, Fax your exp needed. est’d. contacts w/mass retailers a plus. resume to: (516) 869-0980. EOE. Salary negotiable, based on experience. FAX RESUME AND SALARY 401k plus full benefits. Please E-mail REQUIREMENTS TO: resume to: [email protected] 646-674-1246 Several Sales Positions B2X, an importer / manufactuer with a strong Chinese manufacturing base Account Executive has several openings for experienced Italian Designer multi-line showroom sales talent and management. Missy seeks exp’d. Salesperson with strong Spe- and Junior experience a plus, however cialty & Dept. Store relationships. 57th St. will also consider those from other location. Fax resume to: 212-921-0123 markets. Base plus commission. At plan, first year earnings will exceed 100K for C.C. COUTURE sales executives, & management pack- Traveling Sales Pro age negotiable for right individual. South East & Mid-Atlantic Traveling Account Executive Please e-mail resume to: Rep seeks Better Dresses & Sprtswr. A rapidly better updated sportswear & [email protected] Call the professional at (804) 346-0766 dress line seeks an exp’d, creative, and high level sales exec for NY. Candidate must have strong relationships with Dept. / Spec. Stores & proven ability to Sweater Salesperson develop and maintain accts. A great Jr/Missy sweater mfr seeks salesperson oppty for the right candidate & excel- for chains & catalogs. Following a must. lent benefits. Fax resume to: 323-582- Sweater exp a +. [email protected] 4840 or E-mail: [email protected] Excellent Opportunity VP of SALES NY based Intimate Apparel co. seeks Sales Reps Wanted to expand distribution to junior, plus Aggressive new woman’s better dress & size, mass merchants and private label suit manufacturer looking for motivated accounts. Excellent compensation. exp’d sales reps with established Please email resume to: relationships in better specialty and or [email protected] department stores. Most territories open. or fax to: (212) 532-8707 Email: [email protected]

PHOTO COURTESY OF LONDON FASHION WEEK and ready-to-wearcollectionsgetrolling. London isrevvingupasthefashioncrowddescends ALONG WWD THE LONDON THAMES PREVIEW SECTION IISECTION 2 WWD, TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 6, 2007

SECTION II WWD.COM

LONDON PREVIEW Scene Things to do and see while in London.

The Life Aquatic outpost in Covent Garden. Thirty- and 60- Kate Moss, Gwen Stefani, Mick Jagger, Sir minute pedicures are 25 pounds and 50 Norman Foster and Lady Antonia Fraser pounds, respectively, or $49 and $98. are among the smart set that’s been savor- Shiseido is getting in on the act, offering ing the seafood delicacies at Scott’s. The a VIP makeup room at the Spa Illuminata Mayfair fish restaurant started life as an in Mayfair. Prior to a big event, clients can oyster warehouse in 1851 and is said to be use the room to change into their evening the place where Ian Fleming downed his attire and have their makeup applied by Scott’s first shaken-not-stirred martini. Today, it’s the spa’s resident makeup artist. They can owned by the team behind celebrity-filled also opt for a manicure and a blow-dry by restaurants The Ivy and J. Sheekey. The a John Frieda hairstylist. A chauffeur will owners recently gave the place a facelift, drive clients to their soiree and their pre- with oak-paneled walls, leather banquettes party belongings will be taken by courier and an imposing brass and chrome oyster to their home or hotel the following day. bar. Diners can now feast on simple British Prices are yet to be confirmed. fish dishes, including Dover Sole, smoked Groom: 49 Beauchamp Place, SW3 1NY; haddock, fish and chips and Duchy of +44-207-581-1248 and at Selfridges, 400 Cornwall oysters. Oxford Street, W1; +44-207-499-1199. Scott’s, 20 Mount Street, W1K 2HE, +44-207- Guinot: 17 Albemarle Street, W1; +44-207- 495-7309. 491-9971. Emperor Moth Fashion on the Mount Facing Facts Mount Street, until now a Mayfair back- Do fashion images expire with the lat- A Kylie “Kate’s Flat” water, is getting a fashion jolt. Marc est issue of a monthly glossy? “Face of Minogue by Corinne Jacobs will open his first British store Fashion,” a photographic exhibition that costume. Day at “Faces there during London Fashion Week. The opens Feb. 15 at London’s National Portrait of Fashion.” 2,100-square-foot space will carry the en- Gallery, proves they don’t. Portraits by tire Marc Jacobs signature women’s and Mert & Marcus, Corinne Day, Steven men’s collections and accessories. Across Klein, Paolo Roversi and Mario Sorrenti the street is the recently opened Emperor will explore the way the celebrated pho- Moth, London outpost of the whimsi- tographers’ works play with the ideas of cal Russian brand founded by designer fashion and celebrity. The exhibition runs Katia Gomiashvili, which specializes in the gamut, from Day’s furor-causing shots ultra-luxe velour tops embroidered with of a young Kate Moss posing in child-like psychedelic clouds and flying piglets, underwear to Steven Klein’s portrayal and even some stitched with miniature of Angelina Jolie and Brad Pitt as an ee- fabric dolls. rily polished suburban family. “The fash- Marc Jacobs, 24-25 Mount Street, W1, +44- ion magazine remains a vibrant place for 207-399-1690; Emperor Moth, 93 Mount portraiture, and the…work we see there Street, W1K 2SY; +44-207-409-2611. deserves a considered examination,” says Susan Bright, the exhibition’s curator. Costume Drama “Face of Fashion,” Feb. 15 to May 28, Fashion chameleon Kylie Minogue and her National Portrait Gallery, Saint Martin’s colorful wardrobe take center stage with a Place, WC2; +44-207-306-0055. show at the Victoria & Albert Museum that kicks off Thursday. The show will chron- Kitchen Confidential L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon icle her evolution from an Aussie soap London is the latest stop for celebrated star in the Eighties to self-styled showgirl. chef Joël Robuchon’s L’Atelier de Joël The singer’s costume collection, which is Robuchon, after the success of his con- on tour from the Arts Centre museum in cept in New York, Paris, Las Vegas and Melbourne, will be on display through Tokyo. And while it may have just scooped June 10. And, it turns out, many of fash- a Michelin star, it’s not putting on any airs. ion’s big names have had a hand in her Robuchon has tossed aside pomp in favor image; pieces on display include a John of counter seats set around the busy kitch- Galliano white cotton mini with layers of en. The menu offers offbeat tapas-style chiffon ruffles, and Dolce & Gabbana’s sil- dishes such as prosciutto with toasted to- ver shimmering crystal mesh micromini mato bread and langoustine fritters. The and bra, paired with Jimmy Choo thigh- space has been designed by Pierre-Yves high silver boots. Rochon with dark wood tables and moody “Kylie — The Exhibition,” Feb. 8 to June 10, red lighting. Upstairs, there’s a more tra- Victoria & Albert Museum, Cromwell Road, ditional restaurant, La Cuisine de Joël London SW7; +44-207-942-2000. Robuchon, but diners won’t miss the kitch- en dramas: They can watch the culinary Beauty and the Beat show in the restaurant’s other open-plan London beauty emporia are offering a kitchen upstairs. “Twelfth Night” at plethora of pick-me-ups for the fashion L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon, 13-15 West Street, The Old Vic. flock rushed off their Louboutins. Groom’s London WC2H9NQ; +44-(0)-207-010-8600. “The Power of Three” treatment is the ul- timate beauty pit stop — facial, manicure, For Men Only pedicure, waxing, eyebrow tidy and eye- Propeller, the British theater company, is lash tinting, simultaneously performed giving Shakespeare an old twist with its by three therapists within an hour. It’s all-male productions of “The Taming of priced at 120 pounds, or $235 at current the Shrew” and “Twelfth Night.” Directed exchange. by the award-winning Edward Hall, the Multitaskers will appreciate Guinot’s productions have been praised for their Beauté Neuve Double Peeling Facial, physicality, and hark back to the days of which exfoliates, brightens and regener- Elizabethan England, when men slapped ates the skin while minimizing pigmenta- on rouge and wigs — and dominated the tion. The 45-minute treatment starts at 40 stage. The plays are being staged simulta- pounds, or $78. neously at London’s Old Vic theater. Stilettos pinching? Squeeze in a “The Taming of the Shrew” and “Twelfth Fashion Feet pedicure at The Organic Night,” through Feb. 17, The Old Vic, The Pharmacy, which recently opened a new Cut, SE1;+44- 870-060-6628.

4 WWD, TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 6, 2007

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LONDON PREVIEW “This season explores the military heritage of Aquascutum, looking at structure and fabric from our archives, adopting a modern approach to proportion and fabrications. The tailored pieces have been inspired by the brand’s connection with men’s tailoring and Savile Row.” — Michael Hertz, Aquascutum

“This collection continues to draw its inspiration from old Parisian haute- couture salons, this time incorporating elements of oversized folds, waves and motion. It’s also inspired with plastic and man-made fi bers and trims, usually Start Me Up used inside a garment to provide support Thoughts of classic paintings, decades gone by and even houses’ own heritages or structure. In this inspire London’s fall season. Here’s a look at what some designers are thinking. collection, they became an essential part of the dress “Joyful outside, providing it athleticism with a modern feel.” in the spirit — Roksanda Ilincic of Seventies Mr. Freedom, while focusing on “I am inspired by clothes developing and the body, rather than signature themes. Juxtaposition of pieces.” shape, techniques, drapes and — Richard volumes. The urge for simplicity Nicoll combined with nostalgic textures used diversely, both in cut and context.” — Marios Schwab

“I was attracted by the mystery and ethereal quality of Claude Monet’s series of paintings when he was in London. I was particularly inspired by “A return to feminine yet bold the mood, fi ts and fl ared silhouettes. atmosphere A smart yet playful feeling. and dark, Smart — but not stuffy.” veiled colors of — Nick Passmore, design the paintings.” director, Unique, Topshop — Julien Macdonald PHOTO COURTESY OF ART RESOURCE, N.Y. RESOURCE, OF ART PHOTO COURTESY WWD, TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 6, 2007 5

WWD.COM

“Asprey is renowned for traditional jewelry designs, silver-making and the use of precious materials for all product categories — it was a natural starting point to look at couture silhouettes and glamour for inspiration. In doing this, I have combined classic shapes with unexpected fabrics to convey a richness and optimism for these new collections.” — Hakan Rosenius, Asprey

Ice-skaters are inspiring Marc Jacobs for Marc by Marc Jacobs.

“I found the postcard of this Delaroche painting a couple of weeks ago. It’s similar to how I’m feeling at “Noir will always be about contrast. the moment. The whole idea behind Luxurious fabrics developed in the the collection is this mysterious Third World, masculine complementing backdrop of colors. I love the colors femininity, slim versus oversized. It’s and the fabrics. In my collection it’s a tribute to Berlin in the Thirties, shown because I am moving away celebrating intellect and free- from the body-conscious idea, too. thinking people set against austerity There’s more draping.” — glamorous cabaret life meeting a — Christopher Kane uniform-inspired look.” — Peter Ingwersen, Noir

“The collection is inspired by Twenties slinkiness and some Seventies rock ’n’ roll grunge. Colors are deep and “The collection takes its infl uence from the birth of the dark: aubergine modern women who danced, drank, wore makeup and voted. angora, black It’s also infl uenced by lazy weekends spent in grand country cherry or mauve houses borrowing from grandfather’s wardrobe, mixing tweed “I wanted the crepe. Original with regimental and his old smoking suit.” collection to be Biba prints — Paul Smith really sketchy, are reworked: spontaneous, raw The shot heart and unfi nished, is rose-gray or not precious. It’s murky rose. something I started The collection working on while is a mixture of at St. Martins, well-bred and and I felt I wanted uninhibited, for to go back and the girl on the explore this more. edge of the party, When you don’t thoughtfully know where you’ll watching.” end up, you don’t — Bella Freud, present a solution. Biba You ask a question with the clothes.” — Ann Sofi e Back

6 WWD, TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 6, 2007

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LONDON PREVIEW A Tale of Two Cities London’s fashion community is learning to walk the line between commerce and creativity. By Samantha Conti

ast February, when British designer Gareth Pugh sent his models down the Lcatwalk in sci-fi Sith getups and inflated black puffer pieces, it summed up Julien Macdonald the best — and worst — of London. On one hand, there’s glorious and unbridled creativity, and on the other, a complete disregard for commerce. “That collection was ‘so London,’” said one front-row fashion journal- ist. “But, frankly, I was frightened when I saw it. There was nothing salable there.” But London is changing its ways. Designers and fashion industry bodies are making efforts to reconcile those two battling elements, pushing themselves to compete in a business-driven world while still channeling their creative zing. And, after all, it’s the creativity that keeps London — the city that spawned Vivienne Westwood, Mary Quant, John Galliano, Alexander McQueen and a host of other fashion icons — burning. “There is a raw energy and vision on these runways that’s not tempered by business or commerce,” said Michael Fink, Saks Fifth Avenue vice president and women’s fashion director. “What you’re seeing on the runways are totally personal statements. In the end, you never know where you’re going to fi nd the talent, or who is going to make it through, but you have to thank them all for trying.” Tom Ford, honorary chairman of Fashion Fringe, the annual competition for young design talent in London, concurred. “There’s not the same pressure here from big businesses — and the stakes aren’t so high — so the designers are freer to express themselves. And it’s that freedom of expression that makes fashion move forward,” he said. Hilary Riva, chief executive offi cer of the British Fashion Council, said London was by no means the biggest or strongest of the four major interna- tional fashion weeks, but she believed it was the most innovative. “It’s great at launching talent, and pushing boundaries. Anything goes here,” she said. To some, however, that’s one of London’s big problems. Colin McDowell, founder and creative director of Fashion Fringe, said he believed there was too much hype — and not enough fi nancial or business support — around emerging London designers. And that’s damaging to everyone. “There is a terrible tendency in London to become hysterical. It is the most hysterical fashion city, and the failure rate of designers is huge,” he said. In the end, you never know where you’re going“ to fi nd the talent, or who is going to make it through. ” — Michael Fink, Saks Fifth Avenue

“We tend to hype our designers dramatically, but then there is no backup. The pattern is that everyone gets talking about a certain ‘fabulous’ designer and then three seasons later, they’re gone,” said McDowell. That was one reason McDowell founded Fashion Fringe. Each year, the win- ner gets a 100,000 pound ($196,000) prize as well as business advice and con- nections. Since Fashion Fringe began, McDowell has hooked up winners with such companies as Italian manufacturer Aeffe. Under Riva, a former mass market retailer, the BFC is working to fund designers’ budding businesses. Like Fashion Fringe, BFC supports sponsor- ships that are meant to nurture the designers — and ensure they remain in London. Indeed, this city is often a victim of its own success: If designers are very talented — and very lucky — they get snapped up by the big fashion and luxury groups. Cases in point: Galliano and McQueen. Others, like Matthew Williamson, Luella Bartley, Boudicca, Hussein Chalayan, Sophia Kokosalaki and Jenny Packham, have deserted London’s shores for New York, Paris or Los Angeles in a bid to build their profi les and businesses internationally. Even Paul Smith, the doyen of London designers and a London Fashion Week stalwart, has been mulling a move to Paris to show his growing women’s collection. “We’re constantly thinking about showing in Paris,” said Smith. “We’ve al- ways showed our men’s collection there, and we’re established with a show- room. As the women’s line becomes more established, we realize that in Paris we’d get more attention and coverage for the line.” Smith also brought up another problem that London is constantly grap- pling with: the show schedule. “Editors can only be out of the offi ce a certain number of days — and they often choose Paris, New York and Milan over London,” he said. To ensure that London’s designers thrive and stay put in the city, the BFC continues to work with Topshop and its longstanding New Generation sponsor- ship program, which supports emerging talent. Past NewGen designers have been McQueen, Kokosalaki, Rafael Lopez, Julien Macdonald, Antonio Berardi and Clements Ribeiro. This season, the BFC is also working with Westfi eld, the Australian retail property giant, on a new sponsorship called Fashion Forward that aims to help London’s more established designers continue to run their businesses. Westfi eld plans to open a mega shopping mall in the British capital in 2008. WWD, TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 6, 2007 7

WWD.COM The Big Walk A few fresh faces on the British catwalks. Sinha-Stanic Paul Smith Agyness Agyness Deyn Deyn From: Manchester, England Age: 21 Height: 5 feet, 10 inches The Look: Edie Sedgwick gets a punk makeover — with a hint of Eighties model Jenny Howarth. Ad specs: Mulberry and Giorgio Armani campaigns, and she’ll be featured in an upcoming John Galliano ad. Editorial notes: W and French and American Vogue. Big break: November 2006 Italian Vogue cover, shot by Steven Meisel.

Alice Gibb From: London Age: 15 Alice Gibb Height: 5 feet, 11 inches The Look: An otherworldly blend of Tilda Swinton and Lily Cole. Editorial notes: French, British and Italian Vogue. Big break: Accompanied an aspiring model friend to Premier Model Management and was snapped up herself.

Kiera Gormley Kiera From: Belfast, Northern Gormley Ireland Age: 23 Height: 5 feet, 11 inches The Look: Louise Brooks meets Winona Ryder. Ad specs: Burberry and Jaeger. Editorial notes: British Vogue. Big break: Gormley got a blunt bob at a shoot, and it turned out to be a shortcut to stylists’ hit lists.

Georgia Frost From: Buckinghamshire, England Age: 16 Height: 5 feet, 10 inches The Look: Daryl Hannah Ad specs: Dolce & Gabbana, Alberta Ferretti, Anna Molinari and Burberry. Editorial notes: W, Italian Vogue, Pop, Dazed & Confused and V. Big break: Frost was first Georgia scouted at age 13 while Frost shopping in London’s hip Camden neighborhood,

▲ Giles Deacon but postponed her Coco modeling career until Rocha finishing high school. This season’s winners are Giles Deacon, en’s collection for the British company Daks, which Jonathan Saunders and Sinha-Stanic. makes its debut in Milan next month. Coco Rocha “It’s tough for these designers to grow The designer is also creating a capsule collec- From: Toronto here and expand their labels, so we want tion called Gold for the British mass market retail- Age: 19 to help. And it’s also a great opportunity for er New Look that will bow this spring. Height: 5 feet, 11 inches us,” said David Slade, director of leasing at Other designers, including Christopher Kane, The Look: “Carrie”-era Westfi eld. “As these designers get bigger, we’ll Roksanda Ilincic, Marios Schwab, Richard Nicoll and Sissy Spacek. talk to them about selling with us in London.” Todd Lynn, are all becoming known among buyers for Ad specs: Balenciaga and Sponsorship or not, Deacon — one of this their business smarts as well as their creative minds. It’s Dolce & Gabbana. city’s runway stars — is staying in London. still unclear whether London will be able to continue Editorial notes: Italian, “It works from a logistical point of view. I juggling creativity with commerce. But no matter what American, French live and work here, and put the collection happens, this city will always have its die-hard fans. and British Vogue; W; together here,” he said, “and I am a big be- “Fashion is a refl ection of the times, and this is al- Numero; V; ID, and liever in London as a creative force. I want ways such an inspiring city. It’s never inhibited and Dazed & Confused to support that.” there’s a thriving youth culture,” said Julie Gilhart, Big break: Discovered Deacon is also one of a growing num- fashion director at Barneys New York and a front-row at an Irish dancing ber of London designers who are business- fi xture year after year at the London shows. “Some competition when she minded. Besides his signature collection, seasons, there’s a lot more to buy than others — but was 14. Giles, he’ll be designing the luxury wom- the dynamic in London never changes.” FASHION, DEYN AND ROCHA PHOTOS BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI; GORMLEY BY TALAYA CENTENO; GIBB BY KATE RODGERS KATE CENTENO; GIBB BY TALAYA GIANNONI; GORMLEY BY GIOVANNI DEYN AND ROCHA PHOTOS BY FASHION, 8 WWD, TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 6, 2007

SECTION II WWD.COM

LONDON PREVIEW SINHA-STANIC The backstory: The label designed by Croatian-born Aleksandar Sinha CHRISTOPHER KANE and Brit Fiona Stanic was signed by the Italian manufacturing group The backstory: One Aeffe after winning second place at Fashion Fringe in 2004. They were of London’s fastest- nominated for Best New Designer in the most recent British Fashion rising stars, Kane, a Awards and are known for their laid-back, sophisticated style. Last Scotsman, is a design season, they injected a younger, punkier feel into the collection with consultant for Donatella biker jackets and utility-infl uenced pieces. Versace’s ready-to-wear, What’s New Buyers’ buzz: “Their cuts are really innovative — but you don’t need an couture and accessories Here are a few names worth watching on instruction manual to put the clothes on,” observed Coco Chan, buyer collections. He’s best for contemporary designer collections at Harvey Nichols. “Their clothes known for eye-popping the British fashion scene. aren’t pretty-pretty, but they’re still feminine — and the collection is fl uorescent colors and very London.” curvy, body-hugging PETER JENSEN shapes à la Hervé Léger The backstory: NATHAN JENDEN and Azzedine Alaïa. Jensen’s past muses The backstory: The British designer, who’s been creative director at Buyers’ buzz: “The include Nancy Diane von Furstenberg for six years, is crossing the pond to show collections have so Mitford, Tonya his third rtw collection under his own name in his home city. Past much energy and color Harding and Helena collections have included razor-sharp jackets and dresses sweetened — and he’s already Rubenstein, whose with feminine frills and bows. doing signature corset infl uences translate Buyers’ buzz: “I think his collection is more suited to London Fashion work. Also, we love into collections of Week — and I think it’s great that he’s moving it to London. He knows the hot, sexy dresses,” simple dresses, shirts the fashion business so well, and I think it’s good that he’s bringing said Michael Fink, vice and trousers, often some of that New York spirit to London,” said Julie Gilhart, fashion president and women’s adorned with quirky director at Barneys New York. fashion director at Saks prints. The Danish Fifth Avenue. designer honed his HOUSE OF HOLLAND skills at embroidery The backstory: Former teen magazine fashion editor Henry Holland and tailoring schools caused a stir last season with his Day-Glo “Fashion Groupie” T-shirts in Denmark before — which he sent to designers as a prank. Each one is printed with a earning a master’s rhyming couplet in honor of London’s designers. Some examples: “Get degree at Central Yer Freak on With Giles Deacon,” and “Scream Uhu, Gareth Pugh.” This Saint Martins. season, it’s the models’ turn to be immortalized in verse. Buyers’ buzz: “His Buyers’ buzz: “The shirts recall the heady heyday of Katherine Hamnett collection is both and the “Ban the Bomb” protests…but I love how House of Holland accessible and keeps it about fashion. ‘Stop Acid Rain’ becomes ‘Cause me pain, Hedi intellectual. We love Slimane.’ How could one not love House of Holland?” asked Jay Bell, how he [uses] his own men’s wear buyer for Barneys New York. prints, and combines GARETH PUGH nontraditional DANIELLE SCUTT The backstory: Sunderland-born Pugh is becoming materials with classic The backstory: Scutt has been a one to watch ever since she was given known as the enfant terrible of the London scene. He silhouettes,” said the Chloé Award by Phoebe Philo while still in fashion college. The made his debut at Fashion East in 2005, and since Carol Lim, an owner Central Saint Martins master of arts graduate showed in September has become the go-to designer for outlandish — and of Opening Ceremony, with Fashion East. Think Eighties rockabilly meets Helmut Newton: highly impractical — ensembles of bodysuits, PVC, New York. asymmetric belted swimsuits, microminis and ruffl ed denim jackets. latex and infl atable checkered foil jackets. Buzz: Although her clothes have appeared in magazines including Buyers’ buzz: “I hope he experiments with rtw British and American Vogue and British Elle, she’s still not stocked this time,” said Michael Fink, vice president and anywhere, and buyers are reserving judgment. women’s fashion director at Saks Fifth Avenue.

MARIOS SCHWAB TODD LYNN LOUISE GOLDIN The back story: Schwab’s body-conscious dresses have been The backstory: Formerly Roland The backstory: The recent turning heads since he introduced his collection last spring. He’s Mouret’s right-hand man, Lynn Central Saint Martins grad since worked with Nineties motifs, including structured bustiers has rapidly made a name for unveiled her intricate knits and thigh-skimming skirts in faded nudes and muted fl orals. himself as a men’s tailor with at last season’s Fashion East Buyers’ buzz: “Damn, this boy can cut a sexy dress! a rock ’n’ roll edge. His clients group show. She worked with At Browns, we haven’t been this excited about a young include U2, the Rolling Stones Lurex and metallic yarns to designer’s potential for a long time,” said Yasmin Sewell, and Marilyn Manson, and he create a collection of bold micro director of buying at Browns. recently turned his hand to minidresses, swimsuits and women’s wear. leggings. Buyers’ buzz: “Todd is a highly Buyers’ buzz: “Aggressive, RICHARD NICOLL talented tailor with great sexy knitwear isn’t something The back story: commercial awareness. He has that you see every day. Her The Australian a great understanding of luxury pieces are very graphic, but with designer is quickly through simplicity — and it’s a soft element, as they’re made building a client all injected with his unique from really gorgeous crochet base that includes rock ’n’ roll signature,” said and macramé,” noted Alexandra Björk and Kylie Yasmin Sewell, director of Stylianidis, head of buying at Minogue, not to buying at Browns. Browns Focus. mention Domenico Dolce and Stefano RECYCLING WITH GARY HARVEY Gabbana, who This season, designer Gary Harvey is injecting new life into bought his entire second-hand clothing with a display of four couture gowns fi nals collection at The Exhibition during London Fashion Week. The show, after he graduated “Recycled Icons,” features gowns fashioned from castoffs with a master of including old Burberry trenches; vintage Levi’s 501s; baseball arts from Central jackets and military camoufl age jackets. Saint Martins in “At the end of each season, millions of garments are 2002. He’s best suddenly deemed aesthetically redundant: Some get recycled known for his use through goodwill shops, many just get left in the back of the of men’s wear wardrobe or thrown out with the rubbish,” said Harvey, a former fabrics and couture creative director for Levi’s Europe and now a design consultant. details. “This collection shows one Buyers’ buzz: “I’m way to change this waste. My a big fan of his aim is to create something — and he does very beautiful that questions well at the store. current perceptions of The pieces are second-hand clothing.” witty. We get lots of Harvey’s show will be part young girls wearing of Estethica, the eco-fashion his shirts as dresses zone that made its debut at with thick tights The Exhibition last season. and fl at shoes,” It showcases clothing labels according to Laura that are fashion-forward Montagu, buyer for and eco-friendly, fair-trade- European women’s focused or organic. The wear at Bluebird in Exhibition runs Feb. 12 to London. 15 under the tents at the

Natural History Museum. GIANNONI GIOVANNI PHOTOS BY RUNWAY TOPSHOP.COM 10 WWD, TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 6, 2007

SECTION II WWD.COM

LONDON PREVIEW ShowCalendar Times and locations are accurate as of press time. Attendees are encouraged to confirm information.

Sunday, Feb. 11 5 p.m.: Biba, TBD 10:15 a.m.: Paul Costelloe, BFC Tent 6:15 p.m.: Jonathan Saunders**, SE1 The Moët bar at the British Fashion Council’s Tent. 12:30 p.m.: Caroline Charles, BFC 6:45 p.m.: Showthree, F Block T1, Tent Truman Brewery, 15 Hanbury Street, 2:45 p.m.: Ben de Lisi, BFC Tent E1 7:30 p.m.: Eley Kishimoto, BFC Tent Monday, Feb. 12 7:45 p.m.: Julia Clancey, Vauxhall 9:30 a.m.: Noir, BFC Tent Fashion Scout 10 a.m.-3 p.m.: Weardowney, 9 Ashbridge Street, NW8 Thursday, Feb. 15 10:45 a.m.: Peter Jensen, TS/WC2 9:30 a.m.: Ashley Isham, BFC Tent Noon: Duro Olowu*, Conway Hall, 25 10:30 a.m.: Nicole Farhi: The Royal Red Lion Square, WC1 Opera House, Floral Street, WC2 1:15 p.m.: Fashion East, The Shop at 11:15 a.m.: Tata Naka, On|Off Bluebird, 350 King’s Road, SW3 11:45 a.m.: Margaret Howell, TBD 2:30 p.m.: John Rocha, BFC Tent 12:45 p.m.: Betty Jackson, BFC Tent 3:45 p.m.: Richard Nicoll*, TS/WC2 12:45 p.m.: Carolyn Massey, St. 5 p.m.: Erdem*, Goodenough College, Bartholomew the Great Church, Mecklenburgh Square, WC1 Westfield, EC1 6 p.m.: Alice McCall Almada, 17 1:30 p.m.: Avsh Alom Gur, On|Off

Berkley Street, W1 2 p.m.: Antoni & Alison, Cittie of WEEK FASHION OF LONDON PHOTOS COURTESY 6:15 p.m.: Manish Arora, BFC Tent Yorke, 22-23 High Holborn, WC1 7:30 p.m.: Todd Lynn*, TS/WC2 3:15 p.m.: Gardem, Royal Academy, 8:15 p.m.: Elle4Lisa, Café de Paris, 4 W1 Coventry Street, W1 3:30 p.m.: Kisa, On|Off 4:30 p.m.: Gareth Pugh*, BFC Tent Tuesday, Feb. 13 5:30 p.m.: SteveJ & YoniP, On|Off 9:30 a.m.: Allegra Hicks, 5:45 p.m.: Nathan Jenden, Wilton’s Royal Academy, W1 Music Hall, Grace’s Alley (off Ensign 10:30 a.m.: Paul Smith Women, Royal Street) E1 Horticultural Halls, Vincent Square, 7 p.m.: Giles**, Rochelle School, SW1 Arnold Circus, E2 11:15 a.m.: Van Doncke And The 8 p.m.: UFFR — Vassa, On|Off Devil by Jacob Kimmie, On|Off 8 p.m.: Alexandar Nikolich, 215 11:45 a.m.: PPQ, BFC Tent Sutherland Avenue, W9 12:45 p.m.: Christopher Kane*, TS/ WC2 Friday, Feb. 16 2 p.m.: Gharani Strok, BFC Tent 9:30 a.m.: Central Saint Martins MA, 2:15 p.m.: Bernard Chandran, BFC Tent Vauxhall Fashion Scout 11 a.m.: Jens Laugesen, Baden Powell 3 p.m.: Sinha-Stanic**, Basement, House, 65-67 Queen’s Gate, SW7 Victoria House, Vernon Place, WC1 11:30 a.m.: Victim, Vauxhall Fashion 3:30 p.m.: Berube, On|Off Scout 4:15 p.m.: Ann-Sofie Back, TS/WC2 12:30 p.m.: Asprey, TBD 4:45 p.m.: Wildlife Works UK, The 1-8 p.m.: Nico D, 16A D’arblay Street, Bridge, Weston Street, SE1 W1 5 p.m.: Osman Yousefzada, Selfridges, 2 p.m.: Unconditional, Heaven, The W1 Arches, Villiers Street, WC2 5:15 p.m.: Amanda Wakeley, BFC 2:15 p.m.: Ashish, Heaven, The Tent Arches, Villiers Street, WC2 5:15 p.m.: Aimee McWilliams, On|Off 3:30 p.m.: Bora Aksu, BFC Tent 5:30 p.m.: Kristian Aadnevik, 10 3:45 p.m.: Laura Lees, Vauxhall Palace Green, W8 Fashion Scout 6 p.m. and 8 p.m.: Daydream Nation, 4:15 p.m.: Gavin Douglas, BFC Tent Fopp Cafe, 220-224 Tottenham Court 5:30 p.m.: MAN, The Old Sorting Road, W1 Office, 21-31 New Oxford Street WC1 6:30 p.m.: Marios Schwab, TS/WC2 6 p.m.: Harley-Smith, Battersea Arts 7 p.m.: Gavin Pierre Medford, TBD Centre, Lower Hall, Lavender Hill, 7:30 p.m.: Julien Macdonald, Hilton SW11 Park Lane, 22 Park Lane, W1 7 p.m.: Marc by Marc Jacobs, TBD 7:30 p.m.: RAdAR h, b-store, 24 8 p.m.: Pierre Garroudi, Arch 6, Savile Row, W1 Crucifix Lane, SE1

Wednesday, Feb. 14 The BFC (British Fashion Council) 9:45 a.m.: Roksanda Ilincic*, TBD Te n t , styled by Westfield London, is at 10:45 a.m.: Preen, The Lord’s Cricket The West Lawn Tent, Natural History Ground, North Entrance, NW8 8QN Museum, Cromwell Road, SW7 Noon: Jasper Conran, On|Off 12:30 p.m.: La Petite Salope, On|Off *New Generation, sponsored by 1 p.m.: Jean Pierre Braganza, On|Off Topshop 1:15 p.m.: Hamish Morrow, BFC Tent **Fashion Forward, sponsored by 1:30 p.m.: Regine Mowill, Vauxhall Westfield London Fashion Scout TS/WC2: Topshop New Generation 2:30 p.m.: Aquascutum, Trocadero, venue, The Piazza in Covent Garden, 3rd Floor, 21 Rupert Street, W1 WC2 3:15 p.m.: anA Sekularac, Vauxhall On|Off: The Royal Academy of Arts, Fashion Scout Burlington Gardens, W1 3:45 p.m.: Basso & Brooke, BFC Tent Vauxhall Fashion Scout: Baden-Powell 4:30 p.m.: Spijkers en Spijkers, House, Corner of Cromwell Road and On|Off Queen’s Gate, SW7

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