Pocket-Stockholm-4-Preview.Pdf

In This Book

16 Need to Know 17 18 Neighbourhoods 19

Before You Go Arriving in Getting Around Östermalm (p82) Djurgården & Stockholm Dress up and scope out Skeppsholmen Need to Your Daily Budget From Stockholm Arlanda Airport Storstockholms Lokaltrafik (SL; %08-600 Stockholm the beautiful people (p50) Flights to Stockholm generally land at 10 00; www.sl.se; Centralstationen; hSL over a flute of bubbly. A parklike oasis with most of the city’s best Know Budget: Less than 1000kr Arlanda Airport, 45km north of the city. Center Sergels Torg 7am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, Neighbourhoods E Top Sights museums. X Dorm bed or camping site: 250–650kr Terminals 2 and 5 are for international flights; 10am-5pm Sat & Sun, inside Centralstationen Historiska Museet QuickStart 3 and 4 are domestic (there is no Terminal 1). E Top Sights For more information, X Fast-food lunch or sandwich: 65–99kr 6.30am-11.45pm Mon-Sat, from 7am Sun) There are car hire desks at the airport. runs the city’s tunnelbana (metro), trains Skansen see Survival Guide (p145) X 24-hour bus and metro ticket: 120kr Arlanda Express (www.arlandaexpress. and buses. Vasastan (p112) Vasamuseet X Museum admission: 100–150kr com; Centralstation; one way adult/child Find some of the city’s Currency m Metro Moderna Museet Krona (kr) 280/150kr, 2 adults one way in summer best restaurants in this Midrange: 1000–2000kr Stockholm’s fast, efficient underground 350kr; dCentralen) trains between the no-nonsense X Double room: 1000–1600kr Tunnelbana metro system connects various Language airport and Centralstationen run every 10 neighbourhood. neighbourhoods. Swedish X Restaurant meal: 185–200kr to 15 minutes from 5am to 12.30am (less X Happy-hour drink: 35–95kr frequently after 9pm), taking 20 minutes. J Bus Visas Flygbussarna (www.flygbussarna.se; The city bus system, using the same tickets/ Historiska Citizens of EU countries can enter Sweden Top End: More than 2000kr Cityterminalen; dCentralen) buses run to/ passes as the tunnelbana, is extensive. You Kungsholmen # Museet with a passport. Visitors from Australia, E X Double room: 1600–2600kr from Cityterminalen from stop 11 in Terminal must have your ticket or pass before board- (p98) New Zealand, Canada and the US can stay X Upscale dinner and drinks: 350–650kr 5 every 10 to 15 minutes (adult/child one way ing. Humble ’hood with a Guide in Sweden without a visa for up to 90 days. 119/99kr, 40 minutes). friendly vibe and great Some nationalities need a Schengen visa in X Taxi from airport: 500kr H Cycling places to swim. advance, good for 90 days. Airport Cab (%08-25 25 25; www.airport- Stockholm City Bikes (www.citybikes.se; cab.se), Sverige Taxi (%020-20 20 20; E Top Sights Money 3-day/season card 165/300kr) has self- Stadshuset E# E# Vasamuseet Useful Websites www.sverigetaxi.se) and Taxi Stockholm Stadshuset # Skansen ATMs are widely available. Credit cards are service bicycle-hire stands across the city. E# Kungliga E Visit Stockholm (www.visitstockholm.com/ (%15 00 00; www.taxistockholm.se) are Slottet # Moderna accepted in most hotels and restaurants. EMuseet en) Official visitor-info site. reliable taxi services. U Tram Mobile Phones Stockholm Public Transport (www.sl.se/en) From Cityterminalen Trams run between Norrmalmstorg and Good info in English, including a trip planner. Skansen, passing most attractions on Most mobile phones work in Sweden, Local buses go from here into Stockholm’s Norrmalm (p36) Djurgården. though often with hefty roaming fees. Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com/swe- various neighbourhoods; figure 20 minutes Eat, shop and play in the Local SIM cards also work in most phones, den) Destination information, hotel bookings, bustling heart of the to downtown (85kr). P Taxi Your keys to under- with the beneÀ t of a local number and traveller forum and more. city. # no roaming charges; ask your provider to From Centralstationen Taxis are readily available but fees are Fotografiska E unregulated – check for a meter or arrange unlock your phone for international travel. Local buses head to Stockholm’s neigh- the fare first. Advance Planning bourhoods from here; around one hour 20 Time minutes to downtown (159kr). Gamla Stan (p22) Central European Time (GMT/UTC plus one Three months before Reserve a table at a N Ferry Worth a Trip A medieval labyrinth of hour) top restaurant; book big-ticket excursions In summer, ferries are the best way to get to E Top Sights cobblestone streets and (Göta Canal). Djurgården, and they serve the archipelago Millesgården saffron-hued buildings. Tipping One month before Make reservations year-round. Drottningholm Södermalm (p68) E Top Sights Tipping is rare and usually reserved for for popular activities (kayak tours, walk- The arty part of town, Stockholm Archipelago Kungliga Slottet standing the city – good restaurant service (a 10–15% tip is ing tours); book tickets to performances ultra-stylish but casual customary). Tipping taxi drivers is optional, but (theatre, live music). and fun. most people add an extra 10–20kr. One week before Reserve train seats and E Top Sights long-distance buses. we help you decide Fotografiska what to do and how Need to Know Neighbourhoods to do it Tips for a What’s where smooth trip

70 Södermalm FotograÀ ska 71 72 Södermalm Local Life 73

y Top Tips balcony of the ABBA-owned hotel unpretentious places to drink in Temporary Exhibitions Rival (%08-54 57 89 24; www.rival.se; Stockholm. It has a vaguely retro vibe, f The Slussen area is Top Sights In addition to its permanent collection, the Local Life Mariatorget 3; h5pm-midnight Thu-Sat; a smooth wooden bar and record cov- set to be a construc- museum holds four major temporary exhibitions dMariatorget). ers all over the walls. FotograÀ ska a year, often in the form of retrospectives of tion zone for the next Bar-Hopping in Södermalm several years, so follow big-name artists, as well as 15 to 20 smaller tem- Marie Laveau Bara Enkelt signs carefully from the 3 6 A must for shutterbugs, the temporary exhibi- 1 Map p74, G2 porary exhibits. Memorable shows have featured tunnelbana station to In an old sausage factory along Horns- Just down the street from Snotty’s, tions at this stylish photography museum are enormous photos by Sebastião Salgado, an Irving gatan, Marie Laveau (www.marielaveau. decked out in shagalicious floral wall- www.fotograÀ ska.eu reach the museum. It’s a well-established fact that 1 Medborgarplatsen well curated and presented; examples have Penn retrospective, and an exhibit of work by the se; Hornsgatan 66; h5-11pm Mon & Tue, to paper and plush red sofas, Bara Enkelt any neighbourhood where artists At the edges of the vast open square included a Robert Mapplethorpe retrospective Young Nordic Photographer of the Year, Akseli f In the summer 3am Wed-Sat; dMariatorget) is a kicking (%08-669 58 55; www.baras.se; Skånegatan Stadsgårdshamnen 22 and bohemian types live and work that is Medborgarplatsen, all the bars and portraits by indie filmmaker Gus Van Sant. Valmunen. Others have included the likes of An- months, the terrace in Söder playpen that draws a boho-chic 59; h4pm-1am Mon-Fri, 3pm-1am Sat & Explore is a good place for a bar hop. In in the area have roped-off outdoor Fotografiska draws big crowds and offers pho- adult/child 135kr/free nie Leibovitz, David LaChapelle, Klara Kallstrom front of the museum crowd. The designer-grunge bar (think Sun; dMedborgarplatsen), formerly Bara Stockholm, Söder is that neigh- seating. We recommend choosing a tography courses, as well as staging occasional and Johan Wik. entrance becomes a bourhood, and the bars range chequered floor and subway-style Vi, is a popular hang-out for trendy h9am-11pm Sun-Wed, to spot at whichever place offers the best concerts and other one-off events. And it has one lively bar and cafe serv- from comfy dives to beautifully tiled columns) serves killer cocktails, 30-somethings who like their drinks 1am Thu-Sat eye candy. of the coolest locations in Stockholm. Film & Video ing cocktails and a brief designed jewel boxes. The unifying while the sweaty basement hosts club list long and smooth. Check online for menu of dinner specials dSlussen Some of the museum’s temporary exhibitions factor, even in the coolest bars, is nights on the weekend. Known for a schedule of indie rock acts on stage. and À lling salads, usually 2 Mariatorget incorporate short films and video, displayed on an unfussy open-mindedness. This its monthly ‘Bangers & Mash’ Britpop with pumping DJ music Trek slightly northwest towards the loops in small rooms tucked into various corners. part of town is all about fun. night – check online for a schedule. Kebab Stop in the background. lovely square Mariatorget, where you 7 Be sure to seek these out – it’s often some of the Do as the locals do and stop for a can enjoy a drink on the terrace or most provocative and fascinating work in the /GETTY IMAGES © 4 Nada greasy kebab at one of the carts on gallery. Loop back towards the action: SoFo, and around Medborgarplatsen – you’ll 5 Take a Break 000000 e# 0 400 m 000000 Strömmen south of Folkungagatan. Nada (Map need something to soak up all that The cafe on the mu- 0 0.2 miles 000000 The Building n 000000 Stadsgårdsl p74, F4; %08-644 70 20; Åsögatan 140; adventure. For a sit-down version, try Stockholm Fotografiska is housed in a massive (5500 sq seum’s top floor serves Brännkyrkagata 000000Götga ¡# Slussen h d the friendly % Hornsgatan Bellmansgata 000000 5pm-1am Mon-Sat; Medborgarplatsen) Folkets Kebab ( 08-669 coffee and cakes, #ý3 metre) industrial art-nouveau brick structure # Kata edenSta is a cosy establishment that pulls in 91 66; Hornsgatan 92; buffet 119kr, kebabs ta rinavä ds decadent sandwiches Klevgrän gen går designed by the well-known architect Ferdinand Mariatorget n ds a 20-/30-something crowd eager to from 50kr; h10am-2am; dZinkensdamm). #û2 d ham and salads year-round, # Söderledstunneln 000 n Boberg and built in 1906. It was originally a cus- Sankt Paulsgatan ¡# 000 en party. DJs play an eclectic mix, from Kvarngata Slussen and the view from its 000 toms hall, and underwent a 250kr million renova- tan Repslagargatan Mosebacketorg000 ’80s retro to alternative pop, while 8 On the Corner a n Paulsg 000 tion to transform the interior for the museum panoramic windows is Sankt 000 Mariatorget ¡# Björngårdsgata behind the bar mixologists create Wrap up the tour with a last stop at awesome. tanSwedenborgsgatan before opening in 2010. ullsga sophisticated summery cocktails. one of the very few places you can Yxk n llmar Ready to leave the mu- Wo find a cheap beer in the city: the little Gift Shop seum? Climb the stairs 5 Snotty’s collection of dive bars at the corner Maria Prästgårdsgata ¡# Plan to spend some time browsing the gift shop, Medborgarplatsen Snotty’s (Skånegatan 90; h4pm-1am; of Tjärhovsgatan and Östgötagatan. behind the building to 00000 Björns Tjärhovsgatan as it’s particularly well stocked. The collection Högbergsgatan n Fatbursparken 00000 € n- Hermans Trädgårdscafé 00000&~ Trädgård ' Folku dMedborgarplatsen) is a mellow hang- What they lack in ambience they S 00000 #û8 Östgöta #ú7 tan of eccentric little cameras alone is interesting, #ý1 # ödermannagat The best things to (p76) for a veggie Södra 00000# gaga out a few blocks away from Nada. make up for in affordability, and £# 00000 but there are also hundreds of photos available Station Medborgarplatsen00000¡# SOFO Friendly and free of attitude, this you’re bound to meet a lively crowd buffet with a view. Götgatan 00000 n Axel to purchase and, of course, photography books, 00000tan gatan gata Landquist n Kocks is one of the most comfortable and here. a V ngat Folkungaga Park postcards and posters. Kvar SÖDERMALM ä urs s tb t #û4 Fa Timmermansparken g ö a

n n sgata ta 0000 adulå g Bondegatan 0000 nus L a 0000 Mag Åsögatan t #û6 0000 a Kat #û50000 n arina egatan 0000 Bangat Skån 0000 see and do, Åsötorget a neighbourhood by Top Sights Local Life neighbourhood Make the most The insider's city of your visit

126 Gamla Stan & Around 127 130 Best Eating Best Eating 131

1 Riddarholmen Simon and Jean de la filled with happy holi- along Österlånggatan, Other than its lovely Vallée and completed daymakers; you’d never another major commer- in 1660. The statue in know it was once the cial thoroughfare. Best Walks cathedral, this un- Best dervisited islet doesn’t front is Axel Oxen- scene of a massacre (the LEISA TYLER/LIGHTROCKET VIAGETTYIMAGES © Gamla Stan & have a lot in the way stierna (1583–1654), a Stockholm Bloodbath 6 Järntorget Eating close adviser to Queen of 1520).

of tourist activity, but At the end of Österlång- LENA GRANEFELT/LONELY PLANET © Around Christina. it’s extremely pretty to gatan is this pretty Stockholm is a city of food obsessions. The 2 The Walk wander around, with its 5 Köpmantorget square, barely younger 4 Stortorget relatively small city has more than half a dozen Gamla Stan transports you back in time to Stock- cobblestone streets and Stroll down Köpman- than Stortorget (it dates Michelin-starred restaurants, with new and excit- holm’s early history. Most of the tourist activity compressed huddle of Make your way to Mynt- gatan (‘Merchant’s to 1300). It began as an ing places opening constantly, serving everything is concentrated on Västerlånggatan and Stora fairy-tale buildings in torget and turn down Street’) to the triangular important trade spot, from veggie-minded superfoods to fast-food fads Nygatan, but if you venture into the back alleys and delicate pastel shades. Västerlånggatan, the ‘square’ at its end, first for corn, then iron. like the indefatigable burger. It’s not unusual for The Best quieter, more crooked streets, you’ll find a city that main shopping street, where you’ll find a As you continue back people to plan their visits here around restaurant seems almost unchanged since medieval times. 2 Evert Taubes for a few blocks, then 1912 bronze replica of towards the starting menus. Terrass zigzag up to quieter Berndt Notke’s wooden point, peek up Mårten Start Gamla Stan Top Tips At the far west side of Prästgatan. Turn left up statue from the 1400s, Trötzigs gränd – the y Finish Gamla Stan the hill to Stortorget, St George and the narrowest street in Daily Dining Riddarholmen is this flat f The weekday lunch Best Restaurants Ekstedt Reindeer and Best Traditional the old town’s beautiful Dragon, which occupies town, which squiggles terrace covered with tiny If you don’t plan on daily five-star dining, Stock- special called dagens Kryp In An intimate, pike-perch cooked in a Swedish Length 2.5km; 1½ hours main square. It’s lined . Take the off to the right from paving stones and deco- Storkyrkan holm’s cafes offer a good range of standard fare rätt is great value excellent dining spot wood-fired oven – what’s Magnus Ladulås Swed- with gorgeous old road that slopes off to Västerlånggatan. (salads, sandwiches, quiche). Vegetarians and the not to like? 5 Take a Break rated with impressive (90kr to 130kr). It’s in Gamla Stan, which ish classics served in a sculptures at either end. buildings and usually the right, and continue health-conscious are in luck, too, thanks to the a set menu served manages to be upmarket medieval Gamla Stan Stop in at the casual Cafe Järntorget (Västerlång- recent explosion of ‘green’ restaurants serving between 11am and without pretension. setting. The singing lute player, Vasabron 000000000000000 Best Vegetarian gatan 81; ice cream 1/2/3 scoops 40/50/60kr; h8am- Helgeandsholmen000000000000000 nourishing superfood bowls of fresh produce and 2pm, including a hot Everlife, portrays the ter- Strömsborg 0000000000000000000000 Rosendals Trädgård- Hermitage A fantastic Fem Små Hus A perfect 6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat & Sun, open late in summer; 0000000000000000000000 grains. At the other end of the spectrum, the city is main dish, salad, skafe Enjoy gorgeous race’s namesake, Swed- Västerlångga 0000000000000000000000 veggie buffet in Gamla combination of authentic dGamla Stan) for a scoop or two (you’ll want at Norrström 00000000000000000000000000 currently obsessed with cheeseburgers. drink, bread and of Stockholm ish troubadour Evert 0000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000Kungliga produce in the midst of Stan. historical setting and least two) of the most eccentrically Swedish ice- n 0000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000Slottet S coՖ ee. Taube, in a 1990 bronze a 0000000000000000000000000000000000 k Djurgården botanical traditional cuisine. at 000000000000000000000000000Yttre0000000 e Holy Greens A super- cream flavours you’ll ever find, from raspberry tg 000000000000000000000000000000 p Street Snacks by Willy Gordon. The n 000000000000000000000000000000 p splendour. y 00000000000000000000000Borggården0000000 s f Many vegetarian healthy take on fa st food Pelikan An old-school (hallon) with Turkish pepper to black liquorice. 000000 00000 tan 00000000000000000000000 In Swedish street food, hot dogs reign supreme – 000000 000003 M 00000000000000000000000 b sculpture at the opposite 000000 #00000 00000000000000000Slottsbacken r eateries are also all- Hermans Trädgårdscafé in Norrmalm: various Swedish beer hall with a 000000 00000 00000000000000000 o the basic model is called a grillad korvmed bröd n end is Solbåten (1966), 0000000000000000000Sto 00000000000000000n T GAMLA STAN you-can-eat buՖ ets, A top-flight vegetarian delicious bowls of super- solid menu of classics. If 0000000000000000000 rkyrkobrink00000000000000000e r 0000000000000000000 00000000000000000å (hot dog in a bun), although you can also ask for by Christian Berg. 0000000000000000000 P00000000000000000n which are massively buffet with wide-open foods and proteins. you haven’t tried herring 000000#2 0000000000000Sto r g 000000Birger00000000 ä s 000 it boiled (kokt). Adventurous souls can request 00000000000000 s u0000 000 popular with locals. Södermalm views. or reindeer yet, here’s ra Nygatan t Köpmangatan 000000Jarls00000000 Torg g 0000n 000 Mahalo Healthy bowls of 000000Evert 00000000 0000d 000 myriad different things done to their korv, chiefly 00000000000000n a 0000#4 000#5 your chance. 3 Riddarhuset Backe t Grands Verandan Best Ta000000 u b e s 00000000elska C a 0000 000n greens, grains and trendy

000000rang00000000 L n 0000 000 f For Swedish a involving rolling it up in flatbread with accompa- W #1 e Terrass00000000000000 il 0000 n 000t 00000000000000 n la a 000 place in town to launch good-for-you things. In Sturekatten Sip cof- Heading back towards t a 00000000000000 t a n niments from shrimp salad to mashed potatoes. husmanskost (home 000000 N g g r a u s into a classic Swedish 000000RIDDARHOLMEN a y t t Södermalm. fee or tea with cakes at Gamla Stan, you’ll pass g V s n cooking: meatballs, The city’s l a b a ä d e g t s n årdsgatan smörgåsbord. In Nor- i g this adorable old-school r a Riddarhuset, a big pink- t K g Festive Flavours fried herring, etc), Chutney Heaping plates o nd e g /LONELY PLANET IMAGES © n r n n l a å å rmalm. Östermalm cafe. n l n B and-turquoise building e r head to old-school of vegetarian curries and k g Around Christmas, many restaurants offer a jul- e Själag in g t r a P 00 s pubs and trad res- Woodstockholm New stews in Södermalm. that slightly resembles B t r 00 bord, a particularly gluttonous version of Sweden’s a ä a 00Ö Schönfelts Gräk n s 00 a wedding cake. This is ,+ ¡# ys tg 00 taurants. twists on traditional Swed- M T atan00 world-famous smörgåsbord buffet. Among the Rutabaga Artful veggie Gamla u 00000 00 ish dishes. There’s a wine the House of Nobility n 00000 00 usual delicacies of herring, gravlax, meatballs, delights from celebrity Riddarfjärden Stan kb 00000 0000 bar here, too. (or House of Knights), ro 00000 0000#6 short ribs and blood pudding are seasonal gems chef Mathias Dahlgren. led 00000 0000 designed by French e00000n 0000Funckens like Janssons frestelse, a casserole of sweet cream, 0200m 00000 Gränd father–son architects e# 00.1miles potato, onion and anchovy. 000000 highlights 000000 000000 000000 in handy lists Best Walks Stockholm’s Best… to help you plan See the city on foot The best experiences

146 Arriving in Stockholm 147 148 Survival Guide Essential Information 149

City Backpackers Clarion Hotel Sign len; dCentralen) Buses to/ Bus self-service bicycle-hire Boat children half-price) is a ¨ Forex-Vasagatan (Cen- (www.citybackpackers. (www.clarionsign.com) from Cityterminalen leave stands across the city. Essential discount package that tralplan 15; h5.30am-10pm ¨ Inner-city buses radi- ¨ Djurgårdsfärjan city org) A fun place and the Modern luxury hotel with from stop 11 in Terminal Bikes can be borrowed for includes free sightseeing Sun-Fri, to 6pm Sat; dCen- Survival ate from Sergels Torg, ferry services connect Information most central hostel in cool design features. 5 every 10 to 15 minutes three hours and returned tours and admission to 75 tralen) money-changers Odenplan, Fridhemsplan at any City Bikes stand. Gröna Lund Tivoli on attractions. are near the tourist o՗ ce Guide Stockholm. Rival Hotel (www. (adult/child one way (on Kungsholmen) and Djurgården with Nybro- Business Hours 119/99kr, 40 minutes). Buy a bike card online or and Centralstationen. City Hostel (www. rival.se) A retro boutique Slussen . from the tourist o՗ ce. plan (summer only) and Except where indicated, Tickets can be purchased Slussen (year-round) as Electricity cityhostel.se) A quiet owned by one of the Bs ¨ Most run until midnight, we list hours for high online, at Citytermina- frequently as every 10 Public Holidays night’s rest on a budget, from ABBA. but check schedules. Taxi season (mid-June to Au- in Kungsholmen. len or at the Flygbuss minutes in summer; SL gust). Expect more lim- Midsummer brings ¨ Hotel J (www.hotelj. ¨ Tickets cannot be life almost to a halt for Rates are also much self-service machine in ¨ Taxis are readily avail- transport passes and ited hours the rest of the Before You Go Hostel Bed & Breakfast com) This beautiful hotel bought on buses. cheaper in summer and at Terminal 5. able but fees are unregu- tickets apply. year. Many businesses three days: transport (www.hostelbedandbreak- makes it easy to pretend Survival weekends. lated – check for a meter close early the day before and other services are Airport Cab (%08-25 fast.com) Informal spot you own a yacht. reduced, and most shops ¨ Stockholm’s Svenska Bicycle or arrange the fare À rst. Tram and all day after official with good facilities. 25 25; www.airportcab.se), and smaller tourist of- Turistföreningen (STF) First Hotel Reisen (www. public holidays. Sverige Taxi (%020-20 20 ¨ Bicycles can be carried ¨ Use one of the repu- fices close, as do some When to Go hostels are a՗ liated with À rsthotels.com) All the ¨ The historic 7 tram runs Best Midrange 20; www.sverigetaxi.se), and free on SL local trains as table À rms, such as Taxi between Norrmalmstorg ¨ Banks 9.30am–3pm attractions. Hostelling International modern touches in an old °C/°F Temp Rainfall inches/mm Hobo Hotel (www.hobo. Taxi Stockholm (%15 00 foldable ‘hand luggage’ Stockholm (%15 00 00; and Skansen, passing Monday to Friday; some 30/86 8/200 (HI). town building. Nyårsdag (New Year’s se) Hipster and fun, in a 00; www.taxistockholm.se) only. They’re not allowed www.taxistockholm.se) or most attractions on city branches open to 20/68 5pm or 6pm Day) 1 January 6/150 Useful Websites fantastic central location. are reliable taxi services. in Centralstationen or on Sverige Taxi (%020-20 20 Djurgården. 10/50 20; www.sverigetaxi.se). the tunnelbana. ¨ Bars & pubs 11am or Trettondedag Jul 4/100 c/o Stockholm (www. Hotel ‘C’ Stockholm ¨ SL transport passes 0/32 ¨ Stockholm City Bikes ¨ The ridesharing compa- noon to 1am or 2am (Epiphany) 6 January costockholm.com) Book- (www.nordicchotel.com) are valid. 2/50 -10/14 Arriving in (www.citybikes.se; 3-day/ ny Uber (www.uber.com) ing service for rooms and Design hotel with great ¨ Government o՗ ces Långfredag, Påsk, season card 165/300kr) has also covers Stockholm. Annandag Påsk (Good -20/-4 0 B&Bs. location and breakfast. Stockholm Getting 9am–5pm Monday to Guide J FDM A M J J A S O N Friday Type C Friday, Easter Sunday Lonely Planet (www.lone- Hotel Anno 1647 (www. Around 230V/50Hz and Monday) March/April lyplanet.com/sweden/ rexhotel.se) A charm- Stockholm Arlanda ¨ Restaurants 11am– Tickets & Passes 2pm and 5pm–10pm, Första Maj (Labour Day) Summer (mid-Jun–mid- Autumn (Sep & Oct) hotels) Recommendations ing historic hotel near Airport Tunnelbana Emergency and bookings. ¨ Storstockholms LokaltraÀ k (SL; %08-600 10 00; www.sl.se; Centralstationen; often closed on Sunday 1 May Aug) Stockholm’s long Cooler weather, minimal Slussen. Arlanda Express (www. (Metro) & Important hSL Center Sergels Torg 7am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat & Sun, inside Centralsta- and/or Monday; high-end days, uncannily pretty crowds and beautiful Birger Jarl Hotel (www. arlandaexpress.com; Central- Numbers Kristi Himmelsfärdsdag Best Budget ¨ Stockholm’s under- tionen 6.30am-11.45pm Mon-Sat, from 7am Sun) runs the tunnelbana (metro), local restaurants often close light and mild weather autumn colours. (Ascension Day) May/ Vandrarhem af Chapman birgerjarl.se) One of the station; one way adult/child ground train system trains and buses. for a week or two in July 24-hour medical advice 08-32 are dreamy. 280/150kr, 2 adults one way June & Skeppsholmen (www. city’s original design connects its various or August 01 00 Book Your Stay hotels. in summer 350kr; dCen- ¨ Buy tickets and passes at SL counters, ticket machines at tunnelbana sta- Pingst, Annandag Tips and tricks Winter (Dec–Feb) The stfchapman.com) Sleep neighbourhoods; it’s fast ¨ Shops 9am–6pm Emergency 112 tions, and Pressbyrå kiosks. city is a frosted cake, tralen) Trains between the and e՗ cient. Pingst (Whit Sunday and ¨ Expect high-quality on-board an antique ship Rex Hotel (www.rexhotel. Monday to Friday, to 1pm airport and Centralsta- ¨ The same tickets are valid on the tunnelbana, local trains and buses, and Monday) Late May or with holiday markets and accommodation in at this popular hostel. se) Small but stylish ¨ There are three main Saturday mugs of glögg around tionen run every 10 to some local ferry routes. early June Stockholm, although it Långholmen Hotell rooms. lines: green, red and blue. Money every corner. can be expensive. 15 minutes from 5am to Route maps are easy to ¨ Single tickets are available, but if you’re traveling more than once or twice Discount Cards Midsommardag (Mid- & Vandrarhem (www. ¨ ATMs are plentiful, Best Top End 12.30am (less frequently navigate and posted at all it’s better to get a reÀ llable Access card. summer’s Day) Saturday langholmen.com) Spend after 9pm), taking 20 ¨ Stockholm Pass but many businesses in Grand Hôtel Stockholm stations. ¨ A single ticket costs 30kr-60kr and is valid for 75 minutes; it covers return between 19 and 25 June the night in the most com- (%08-663 00 80; www. Stockholm are now cash- (www.grandhotel.se) minutes. trips and transfers between bus and metro. fortable prison cell you’re ¨ Trains generally run stockholmpass.com; free and accept payment Alla Helgons Dag (All Iconic waterside luxury, Flygbussarna (www. likely to come across. from 5am to 2.30am, but ¨ A 24-hour/72-hour/seven-day pass costs 120/240/315kr for an adult. Add adult 1-/2-/3-/5-day pass by credit or debit card Saints Day) Saturday, for a seamless, where the glitterati stay. Á ygbussarna.se; Citytermina- check schedules online. another 20kr for a reÀ llable Access card. 595/795/995/1295kr, only. hassle-free city Getting Around Essential Information experience Travel like a local Including where to stay

00--quickstart-contents-pk-sto4.inddquickstart-contents-pk-sto4.indd 2 222/11/20172/11/2017 110:58:470:58:47 Our selection of the city’s best places to Lonely Planet’s eat, drink and experience: Stockholm 1 Sights Lonely Planet Pocket Guides are designed to get you 5 Eating straight to the heart of the city. Inside you’ll find all the 6 Drinking must-see sights, plus tips to make your visit to each one 3 Entertainment really memorable. We’ve split the city into easy-to-navigate 7 Shopping neighbourhood s and provided clear maps so you’ll find your way around with ease. Our These symbols give you the vital expert authors have searched information for each listing: out the best of the city: walks, food, nightlife and shopping, % Telephone Numbers c Family-Friendly to name a few. Because you h Opening Hours # Pet-Friendly want to explore, our ‘Local Life’ p Parking g Bus pages will take you to some n Nonsmoking f Ferry i Internet Access m Metro of the most exciting areas to W Wi-Fi Access b Subway experience the real Stockholm . v Vegetarian Selection j Tram And of course you’ll find all E English-Language d Train the practical tips you need for Menu a smooth trip: itineraries for short visits, how to get around, and how much to tip the guy who serves you a drink at the Find each listing quickly on maps end of a long day’s exploration. for each neighbourhood : It’s your guarantee of a

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02a-explore-the-louvre.indd 33 19/08/2011 11:09:12 AM

02a-explore-the-louvre.indd 28 19/08/2011 11:08:57 AM QuickStart Explore Guide 7 Stockholm 21 Stockholm Top Sights ...... 8 22 Gamla Stan Stockholm Local Life ...... 12 Stockholm Day Planner .....14 36 Norrmalm Need to Know ...... 16 Stockholm 50 Djurgården & Skeppsholmen Neighbourhoods ...... 18 68 Södermalm

82 Östermalm

98 Kungsholmen

112 Vasastan

Worth a Trip: Millesgården ...... 94 Museums of Gärdet & Ladugårdsgärdet ...... 96 Drottningholm ...... 108 Stockholm Archipelago ...... 120

00--quickstart-contents-pk-sto4.inddquickstart-contents-pk-sto4.indd 4 222/11/20172/11/2017 110:59:000:59:00 The Best of Survival Stockholm 125 Guide 145 Stockholm’s Best Walks Before You Go ...... 146 Gamla Stan & Around ...... 126 Arriving in Stockholm ...... 147 Water’s Edge Walk ...... 128 Getting Around ...... 147 Essential Information ...... 149 Stockholm’s Best … Language ...... 152 Eating ...... 130 Cafes...... 132 Museums & Galleries ...... 133 Nightlife ...... 134 Live Music ...... 135 Shopping ...... 136 Fashion ...... 137 Design ...... 138 With Kids ...... 139 For Free ...... 140 LGBT ...... 141 Architecture ...... 142 Parks ...... 143 Festivals & Events ...... 144

00--quickstart-contents-pk-sto4.inddquickstart-contents-pk-sto4.indd 5 222/11/20172/11/2017 110:59:010:59:01 01--quickstart-welcome-to-pk-sto4.inddquickstart-welcome-to-pk-sto4.indd 6 223/11/20173/11/2017 115:23:445:23:44 7 QuickStart Guide Stockholm Top Sights ...... 8

Stockholm Local Life ...... 12

Stockholm Day Planner ...... 14

Need to Know ...... 16

Stockholm Neighbourhoods ...... 18

Welcome to Stockholm

Stockholmers call their compact, walkable city ‘Beauty on Water’. But despite the gorgeous old town centre Gamla Stan, Stockholm is no museum piece: it’s modern, dynamic and ever-changing. This is a city of food obsessives, with good design a given across all aspects of daily life: if something can be beautiful as well as functional, why not make it so?

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Skansen (p52) Excellent outdoor Swedish history museum.

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