WW1 Heritage Trail, Colsterdale, near Masham Introduction Map This quiet dale to the north east of Nidderdale Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB) has been the focus of a three year OS Explorer 302: First World War Centenary project: Nidderdale AONB and the First World War: Leeds Pals, POWs and the Home Front. The Northallerton and Thirsk project has been funded by the Heritage Lottery Fund. It is supported by the Friends of Nidderdale AONB and has benefitted from the hard work of many project partners, not least volunteers from the AONB and Leeds and archaeologists from the Distance/Time University of York. This heritage trail is the result of their collective research. It will tell the story of Colsterdale in the First World 3.3 miles (5.3km) War long after the project has finished. 1-2 hours Starting Point Gollinglith Foot (SE 153809).

Terrain 1 A moderate walk along quiet roads and public rights of way.

15 2 Useful Information MASHAM 3 • We recommend you use this booklet in 14 (approx 4 4 conjunction with OS Explorer Map 302 miles) 13 (Northallerton and Thirsk). However, if you are 5 joining the route from the south you will also need OS Explorer map 298. 12 11 • Car parking is available at Gollinglith Foot and at the Memorial Cairn to the Leeds Pals at Breary Banks itself. This trail has been written based on a starting point at Gollinglith Foot. 9 8 7 10 • There are no public transport connections 6 to the start of the walk. However, Masham is UPPER NIDDERDALE accessible by bus from Ripon and Harrogate (approx 6 miles) and it is possible to take a taxi from Masham up to the Memorial Cairn or walk starting point at Gollinglith Foot.

For more free guides of walking and cycling routes in Nidderdale AONB, visit our website at nidderdaleaonb.org.uk Easy access alternative The route The route continued A shorter, easy-access version of the 1. The route starts at the small car park 3. Stop on the verge just after Pasture and camp infrastructure. Historical itself is not visible from here). This west along a single track road and up families, is on the southern (Memorial) 10. This is the highest point on the walk route can be undertaken based on a by the River Burn in Gollinglith Foot (grid House looking right into the the valley of and archaeological research into the distinctively shaped tower is one of a the south side of the dale, following side of the road. New huts and facilities (grid ref SE151800) just before the route starting point at the Leeds Pals Memorial ref SE153809). Colsterdale. site of Breary Banks has included an set of four ‘Colsterdale towers’ which the brown signpost to the Leeds Pals were added for the Leeds Pals in the turns north and down the hill, through Cairn at Breary Banks, near Healey examination of aerial photography, which, were intended to help engineers conduct Memorial. field on the opposite (northern) side of the gate, towards Pickersgill House. (postcode for sat nav: HG4 4LW). The The hamlet of Gollinglith Foot sits in Pasture House was originally known as alongside various survey techniques, has surveys to enable the reservoir work to the road, in order to accommodate this Memorial Cairn can be found by road Colsterdale valley bottom, on the river ‘The White House’ and was built early on helped provide further evidence as to the take place. sudden influx of men and provide for One of the Leeds Pals described this area by following the brown sign posts from Burn. Colsterdale was named for the in the Colsterdale reservoir development form and extent of the former camp, as the necessities of army training. For a as being ‘the roof of Yorkshire’, with some Continue across Leighton Bridge to a field 8. Walk along the narrow lane past Crab Masham. coal mining that took place at the head phase for the future keeper of the well as outlying sites connected to the time, whilst changes were being made to justification! of the valley from the Middle Ages. planned Colsterdale Reservoir: ‘the gate on your left about 20m beyond the House farm on your left and The Lodge camp within the wider landscape. camp, hundreds of the new recruits were If you retrace your steps 20m back along There is limited car parking at the Leeds Corporation, (as the municipal reservoir that never was’. It was occupied bridge. on your right. Soonafter, a now derelict accommodated in bell tents in the fields the road, you may be able to spot the site Memorial Cairn and level access along authority for Leeds was then known), by Mr Arnold, the Leeds Corporation’s Continue to a junction in the road. Methodist Chapel is on your right. around you. of the former rifle range constructed for the quiet road through the centre of the had for many years hoped to build a contractor for Leighton Reservoir. This marker identifies the old Methodist the Leeds Pals. Looking north to Spout former training and POW camp. There is reservoir here, by damming the river Burn 6. Both ‘halves’ of the camp (i.e. both sides Just beyond, looking southward across At the field gate on your left look south Chapel which is one of the only surviving House Farm below you, and left along the ramped access up to the memorial cairn and its tributaries. Work began in 1904 5. of the road) were adapted to become a the valley, you can see an impressive This marker at the junction of the into the field. buildings from the time of the former ridge to the west of the farm, you should enclosure itself. Information boards also but landslips in the valley and further Masham to Lofthouse road (grid ref village of Breary Banks. It would have Prison Camp for German Officers during black and white building known as This was the site the narrow gauge see a break in one of the dry stone walls provide further information. investigations led to the project being SE171804) denotes the point at which been located just on the edge of the the later years of the War (1916-19). Pinewood Manor. This was the Leeds railway junction for rail routes up to on the hillside, which was made for the abandoned in 1906. the walker should turn southwest along settlement itself, which was further along Walk points 8 to 10 can be followed using Corporation’s ‘Bungalow’ - an elegant Leighton reservoir, Roundhill reservoir This cairn was erected by the Leeds rifle range. Rifle ranges are an important this road, downhill to Leighton Bridge, the road. Built in 1911, it remained in use this booklet for the Breary Banks section From here the route travels eastwards multi-storey building designed to and Colsterdale. During the early years of Pals Association, including veterans, archaeological feature of army training. situated at the bottom of the hill. Care is until the 1930s and would have served of the route. along the single track entry road towards accommodate and impress visiting the 20th century this would have been a friends and family of the Pals, in 1933. The British Army used Lee Enfield rifles needed here as this road can be busy. the wider rural community as well as the the villages of Healey/ Fearby. Walking engineers and guests, including members busy railway junction, including worker’s The Association made regular visits to in the First World War infantry. Their inhabitants of the temporary village of Other information along, the road climbs gradually and of the Leeds Waterworks Committee. It is worth noting that this was the route accommodation, and engine sheds, Colsterdale to commemorate the First effectiveness depended on the skill and Breary Banks. Why not also experience a visit to Breary offers the walker increasingly extended As the camp was occupied by the army that the Leeds Pals would have marched serving the waterworks of both Leeds World War and the site remains a place training of the operator, so rifle training Banks using an audio trail created by views to your right - south across the dale in the autumn of 1914, at the onset of along when they first came to Colsterdale (Leighton and Colsterdale) and Harrogate Prior to the building of this Chapel, navvy of remembrance today, long after the last was an important component of training students from the University of York. towards the site of Breary Banks. Breary War, the ‘Bungalow’ was destined to in September 1914, still dressed in civilian (Roundhill) Corporations. workers from Breary Banks would have huts were removed from Breary Banks. for Kitchener’s ‘new army’ of volunteers. The trail can be downloaded from the Banks was once a bustling reservoir become the Officers’ Mess: comfortable clothing and excited, yet naïve about the been able to use the village’s Mission These narrow gauge railway routes were If you look north, back across the valley of Turn right downhill through the gateway internet at https://hiddendale.wordpress. workers’ village and First World War army accommodation for the officers of the prospect of going to War. The Leeds Pals Room hut, or walk to the nearest Church vital to the waterworks engineering Colsterdale, you can see Pasture House. along a tarmacked track. com/breary-banks-audio-guide/ camp. 15th Battalion, West Yorkshire Regiment were over 1,000 army volunteers mainly at Healey. The Chapel would have been projects and indeed for supplying The planned (but never executed) site of (Leeds Pals). from Leeds. They enlisted early on in the used throughout the First World War. The fields around you contain the It is also possible to download the guide the army camp at Breary Banks. They the reservoir in Colsterdale was further War, as a wave of patriotic fervour swept remains of training trenches constructed whilst on site at Breary Banks. were built to carry goods rather than Continue along the lane climbing steadily west along the valley. across the country. The business and by the Pals and the Battalions that trained 2. Look across the valley to your right transporting people. A narrow gauge uphill. The Six Dales Trail follows part of the First clerical classes were specifically targeted Just beyond the memorial cairn, two here after them. These are easiest to see from this point for the distinctive 4. Here at the highest point along this railway line once travelled up the valley World War route. The trail is 38 miles to form a new ‘City Battalion’ as Leeds interpretation panels, one either side of in aerial photography. The shoulder of Memorial Cairn to the Leeds Pals, which part of the route (grid ref SE164804) of Colsterdale, traversing obstacles in long and goes from Otley to Middleham. had been less successful at recruiting the road, provide further information land you are walking down would have stands near the centre of the former look back across the valley towards the valley via wooden trestle bridges. from this group. The Pals were given a 9. Stop at the prominent stone cairn about the camp. been useful for tactical training, using the It is also possible to join the First World settlement. The camp was situated Pinewood Manor and Breary Banks, A branchline travelled up to the camp, huge send off from crowds of thousands located in a fenced enclosure on your left. topography to emulate trench warfare War route from Bivouac in the Swinton below the conifer plantation (Ox Close the memorial cairn to the Leeds Pals supplying necessities such as coal, food Continue along the lane through the at Leeds Railway Station, before travelling conditions. Accounts from the Pals during Estate and the nearby Druid’s Temple. plantation) you can see on the horizon. and the surrounding terracing. The supplies and the all-important camp mail. Here, at the memorial cairn to the Leeds former settlement. As you walk, note Follow the Ripon Rowel walk west to the Can you make out the terraces that archaeological footprint of the former by train to Masham. A blue plaque at Pals, it is possible to envisage the scale the terraces to your left in the hillside. their months at Colsterdale record the hamlet of Leighton joining the road from once supported buildings in the field settlement clearly stands out, particularly Masham Old Station, now a caravan and Walk back down to the Leighton Bridge and position of the First World War You may also be able to discern humps, efforts spent digging these trenches by Masham to Lofthouse. Turn right along surrounding the cairn? in relief at low light. One hundred years camping park, records their arrival. junction with Breary Banks road to military camp. The road you have walked bumps and concrete features in the field hand, using entrenching tools, and also ago Colsterdale Camp, as it was known waypoint 7. along continues through what was once practicing manoeuvres using the trench the road for 400m to Leighton Bridge, Continue along the road to the next Note also the distinctive ‘sighting tower’ to your right, which once held army huts during the War, would have been visible the centre of the former settlement. The system: including assaulting trenches where you can turn left to join the First roundel, passing a white house called further to the south, on the horizon 7. The marker at Leighton Bridge marks erected in the first instance for the Leeds as a bustling village of huts on the hillside, majority of the original navvy settlement, uphill; and defending the trench lines. World War trail at point 6. Pasture House. beyond Leighton Reservoir (the reservoir the point at which the trail turns to the Pals Battalion. with outlying parade ground, rifle ranges built for the reservoir workers and their Walk down the track to a gateway near a The route continued References & acknowledgements derelict house straight ahead. German officer Prisoners of War who field. Passing through this gap, you will We would like to thank the farmers who came to Colsterdale have been found, pick up an old path which continues north manage this land for their support with documenting life in this remote prison and to a footbridge over the River Burn our project, the Swinton Estate, the Pott 11. Pass through the gate in front of camp. These accounts include details and back to the car park at the start of and Agill Study Group, the Nidderdale Pickersgill House and bear left to find a of escape attempts, remarks about the our route. AONB and the First World War project gate immediately to the west of this old ‘inhospitable’ weather of Colsterdale, the volunteers and University of York dwelling. camp food and the prisoner’s cravings Department of Archaeology for all their for word from home, and to hear of help in researching Colsterdale’s First The Leeds Pals had a reputation for news from the War. The prison camp World War story. their ‘sporting’ successes, winning was created out of the former army The following research resources have also trophies particularly for cross country training camp in 1916 and continued to been of use: running. Perhaps the ‘bracing’ training hold prisoners until 1919, when work environment provided at Colsterdale on Leighton Reservoir resumed and • Milner, L ‘Leeds Pals – a history of the assisted their training! The Battalion reservoir workers moved back into the 15th (Service) Battalion (1st Leeds) The included several notable sportsmen, former village. At its peak in 1923, Breary Prince of Wales’s Own (West Yorkshire including Evelyn Lintott, the footballer, Banks village contained 49 huts and even Regiment) 1914-18 (1991) Arthur Dolphin, Major Booth and Roy had its own cinema. In 1926, the camp • Bowtell, H D ‘Lesser Railways of the Kilner (cricketers), Albert Gutteridge and was dismantled and the huts were sold George Colcroft (athletes) and Joseph Yorkshire Dales and the Dam Builders off by auction. The building footings in the age of steam’ (1991) Jones the wrestler. became overgrown and the fields went back to pasture, which has enabled the • Web article Brooke C (2014) http:// archaeology of the camp to survive in www.dailymail.co.uk/news/ 12. Go through this gate and proceed excellent condition. article-2885697/How-fed-lobster- north to a small gate at the bottom of game-PoWs-Christmas-Long-lost- this steep field and then bear right to a diary-reveals-German-officers-held- gate and footbridge across the drain from 14. Crossing the small beck the route Yorkshire-Dales-enjoyed-festive-feast- Spruce Gill Beck. This catchwater drain starts to gently rise through the wood to given-presents.html (site consulted was installed by the Leeds Corporation to a further gate, which in turn opens out July 2016) draw water out of Colsterdale and pipe it into pasture broken up with trees, many south into the new reservoir at Leighton, • Leeds Pals volunteer researchers of which are the remains of outgrown research blog: https:// in lieu of building an actual reservoir here hedges. From here bear right of the old in the valley. leedspalsvolunteerresearchers. barn and make for a gap in the hedge wordpress.com/ (site consulted July From here bear slightly right, heading of the opposite field corner and a new 2016) for the old stone gatepost visible in an marker post. outgrown hedge further down the slope. A First World War heritage trail around Colsterdale - part of ‘Nidderdale AONB: Leeds Pals, POWs and the Home Front’: a First World War Centenary project funded by the Heritage 13. From this point bear slightly right in a Lottery Fund. 15. Passing by this post continue in north-easterly direction to go down the a north-easterly direction, across the This walk was prepared by Neal Topham, Friends of Nidderdale AONB Trustee, and the WW1 slope to a small gate which opens into pasture and heading down the slope Project Officer Amanda Walters. woodland by the Spruce Gill Beck. toward a gap in the gorse which is To find out more about Breary Banks, our research in Colsterdale and our First World War Various accounts and diaries from scattered across the lower parts of this Centenary project, please visit www.nidderdaleaonbWW1.org.uk