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De Seminyak À Canggu Bali Y VOIR L’ESSENTIEL M VIVRE LE MEILLEUR JAVA M E R D E I AL PULAU B Kubutambahan E MENJANGAN LE NORD Bukti D IT O Singaraja R p.228 T É D Banyuwedang Gilimanuk Pemuteran Lovina Gerokgak Seririt Gitgit PARC NATIONAL Penulisan Cekik DE BALI OUEST Kalisada Mayong DANAU GUNUNG BUYAN Belimbingsari DANAU MERBUK BRATAN 1 385 M GUNUNG Candikusuma SENGAYANG BEDUGUL 2 093 M Tukadaya BALI Pupuan GUNUNG RIZIÈRES DE Banyubiru Negara Mendoyo Sanda BATUKARU JATILUWIH 2 276 M Belimbing Medewi TAMPAKSIRING Marga Balian Bajera UBUD Tabanan Tanah Lot Celuk PURA TANAH LOT DENPASAR Canggu Seminyak Sanur JAVA Legian Kuta Jimbaran Nusa Dua Uluwatu Pecatu PRESQU’ÎLE LE SUD DE BUKIT ASIE INDONÉSIE O INDONÉSIE C É A BALI AUSTRALIE R D E B A L I Kubutambahan Bukti Bondalem Tejakula Gitgit L’EST Penulisan GUNUNG p.164 BATUR Tianyar 1 717 M DANAU DANAU Kubu BRATAN Batur BATUR BEDUGUL TULAMBEN Penelokan GUNUNG GUNUNG ARCHIPEL ABANG AGUNG 3 031 M DES GILI GILI RIZIÈRES DE 2 151 M Culik AMED MENO GILI AIR JATILUWIH GUNUNG SERAYA GILI 1 175 M TRAWANGAN BESAKIH Bangsal Selat TAMAN TIRTA GANGGA Pemenang TAMPAKSIRING Bangli Amlapura Marga K Candidasa O Senggigi Klungkung/ B UBUD Semarapura M Tabanan Padang Bai O Batu L Bolong E D Gianyar IT O Mataram Sukawati TR DÉ Cakranegara Celuk LE CENTRE DENPASAR p.112 Jungutbatu Seminyak Toyapakeh Gerung Sanur Legian GILI PUNCAK MUNDI GILI RENGIT Kuta Sakti LAYAR GILI NUSA 521 M DESERT GILI NANGGU Lembar LEMBONGAN Pejukutan POINT GILI GEDE ASAHAN Jimbaran Batumadeg Nusa Dua NUSA GUNUNG LOMBOK Pecatu PENIDA TUKAD PONGGOD LE SUD 418 M PRESQU’ÎLE BELONGAS DE BUKIT p.46 BAY O C É A N I N D I E N N 10 km SOMMAIRE SOMMAIRE 6 Reportage 42 - Dix jours à Bali en famille Des fleurs et des dieux 45 - Trois jours à Nusa Penida 19 Préparer 47 Le Sud son voyage 48 Plan 1 Le sud de Bali 20 En un clin d’œil 50 U Les incontournables 22 U Les incontournables 52 Nos conseils 30 Selon vos envies 54 Rendez- vous avec… 36 Les itinéraires 56 Denpasar 36 - Quinze jours à Bali 62 Kuta et Legian 40 - Deux jours à Ubud 64 Plan 2 Kuta et Legian 4 SOMMAIRE BALI 70 De Seminyak à Canggu 236 Rendez- vous avec… 72 Plan 3 Seminyak, Petitenget 238 Singaraja et Kerobokan 244 Lovina 74 Plan 4 Canggu 246 Plan 11 Lovina 84 Jimbaran et le Bukit 252 Bedugul 94 Sanur 258 Pemuteran 96 Plan 5 Sanur 264 De Gilimanuk à Balian 102 Les îles Penida 270 Tabanan et le mont Batukaru 113 Le Centre 281 114 Plan 6 Le centre de Bali Comprendre 116 U Les incontournables 282 Géographie et paysages 118 Nos conseils 284 Faune et flore 120 Rendez- vous avec… 286 Histoire 122 Ubud 291 Économie 124 Plan 7 Ubud 292 L’hindouisme balinais 140 Les environs d’Ubud 296 Société 158 Gianyar et la côte 299 Architecture 302 Arts de la scène 306 Arts plastiques 165 L’Est et les Gili 308 Artisanat 166 Plan 8 L’est de Bali 310 Gastronomie et les Gili 168 U Les incontournables 313 170 Nos conseils Carnet pratique 172 Rendez- vous avec… 314 Avant de partir 174 De Bangli au mont Batur 317 Agenda 184 L’ascension du mont Batur 318 Transports 186 Besakih et le mont Agung 323 Sur place 192 L’ascension du mont Agung 194 Klungkung 333 200 Pandang Bai et Candidasa Hébergements 206 Amlapura et Tirta Gangga 334 Le Sud 212 Amed et Tulamben 339 Le Centre 218 Les Gili 341 L’Est 220 Plan 9 Les Gili 344 Les Gili 346 Le Nord 350 L’Ouest 229 Le Nord et l’Ouest 352 230 Plan 10 Le nord et l’ouest Glossaire de Bali 232 U Les incontournables 356 Index 234 Nos conseils 5 Ignorant Denpasar, la pittoresque capitale provinciale, la plupart des visiteurs filent vers les stations balnéaires du Sud- Ouest – la populaire Kuta aux nuits aussi longues que sa plage, la plus chic Seminyak –, les spots de surf mythiques de la presqu’île de Bukit ou les rivages plus paisibles de Sanur. De là, embarquement pour les îles Penida, paradis des plongeurs comme des contemplatifs. Le Sud 48 Plan 1 50 Les incontournables 52 Nos conseils 54 Rendez- vous avec… 56 Denpasar 62 Kuta et Legian 70 De Seminyak à Canggu 84 Jimbaran et le Bukit 94 Sanur 102 Les îles Penida Sur la plage de Sanur LE SUD Plan 1 TABANAN Celuk GIANYAR T Cepaka E N Beraban E P KABUPATEN Guwang Munggu Dalung BADUNG Batubulan Y E Tanah Lot H Buduk A Y U Gare routière N de Batubalan G Ketewel Ubung Pantai Tohpati Purnama Gare routière d’Ubung Bali Orchid Pantai Padanglinjong Garden Ketewel DENPASAR Kerobokan PERERENAN Sumerta BEACH Canggu G Padanggalak N ECHO BEACH U CANGGU BEACH Danginpuri D A NUSA PENIDA Sanur Taman SANUR B Panjer BEACH Renon T O Pedungan Seminyak PARK A TAMAN A C NID KOTA L PE SEMINYAK BEACH Pemogan USA É Sidakarya E N A LEGIAN BEACH Legian Pegok S N CAPE SERANGAN KUTA BEACH ai Bypas SANUR rah R s I Ngu BEACH N Konservasi KUTA Penyu Hijau D Mangrove Serangan Information Pura Abiyan Kuta Centre Susunan PULAU I Wadonan SERANGAN E Tuban ★ A I A A N B Benoa B B Aéroport International M M G NUSA A Harbour A N Ngurah Rai S S A U U LEMBONGAN D K TUBAN K A P Réserve Tower BGM BEACH Tanjung MUSHROOM Jungutbatu côtière N Ped du FNPF Telaga g Benoa SA BAY u NUR Kedonganan M r a a Sampalan h d KEDONGANAN BEACH a R r BENOA Toyapakeh ai Bypass a A T NO R o BE OU ll BAY RB Lembongan Jimbaran R A GAMAT ★ o H Karangsari a NUSA BAY JIMBARAN BEACH d CENINGAN Pura Goa Sakti Klumpu Giri Putri Angkal CRYSTAL BAY NUSA BALANGAN BEACH Benoa Suana Tegalsari NUSA DUA PUNCAK PENIDA BEACH Angel’s DREAMLAND BEACH MUNDI Pejukutan Bualu Billabong Batumadeg 521 M BINGIN BEACH Indah IMPOSSIBLE BEACH Garuda Wisna Kelingking Batukandik PADANG PADANG BEACH Kencana (GWK) Nusa Dua O Sabuluh New Kuta Cultural Park Kampial Golf C É SULUBAN Bali Golf Tembeling Tanglad Atuh BEACH A Beach PRESQU’ÎLE DE BUKIT & Country Club N Pura Luhur Uluwatu ★ Kutuh I N Ungasan D Uluwatu I E Pecatu GEGER N BEACH N PANDAWA BEACH N 2 km TIMBIS BEACH 5 km 48 LE SUD Plan 1 TABANAN Celuk GIANYAR T Cepaka E N Beraban E P KABUPATEN Guwang Munggu Dalung BADUNG Batubulan Y E Tanah Lot H Buduk A Y U Gare routière N de Batubalan G Ketewel Ubung Pantai Tohpati Purnama Gare routière d’Ubung Bali Orchid Pantai Padanglinjong Garden Ketewel DENPASAR Kerobokan PERERENAN Sumerta BEACH Canggu G Padanggalak N ECHO BEACH U CANGGU BEACH Danginpuri D A NUSA PENIDA Sanur Taman SANUR B Panjer BEACH Renon T O Pedungan Seminyak PARK A TAMAN A C NID KOTA L PE SEMINYAK BEACH Pemogan USA É Sidakarya E N A LEGIAN BEACH Legian Pegok S N CAPE SERANGAN KUTA BEACH ai Bypas SANUR rah R s I Ngu BEACH N Konservasi KUTA Penyu Hijau D Mangrove Serangan Information Pura Abiyan Kuta Centre Susunan PULAU I Wadonan SERANGAN E Tuban ★ A I A A N B Benoa B B Aéroport International M M G NUSA A Harbour A N Ngurah Rai S S A U U LEMBONGAN D K TUBAN K A P Réserve Tower BGM BEACH Tanjung MUSHROOM Jungutbatu côtière N Ped du FNPF Telaga g Benoa SA BAY u NUR Kedonganan M r a a Sampalan h d KEDONGANAN BEACH a R r BENOA Toyapakeh ai Bypass a A T NO R o BE OU ll BAY RB Lembongan Jimbaran R A GAMAT ★ o H Karangsari a NUSA BAY JIMBARAN BEACH d CENINGAN Pura Goa Sakti Klumpu Giri Putri Angkal CRYSTAL BAY NUSA BALANGAN BEACH Benoa Suana Tegalsari NUSA DUA PUNCAK PENIDA BEACH Angel’s DREAMLAND BEACH MUNDI Pejukutan Bualu Billabong Batumadeg 521 M BINGIN BEACH Indah IMPOSSIBLE BEACH Garuda Wisna Kelingking Batukandik PADANG PADANG BEACH Kencana (GWK) Nusa Dua O Sabuluh New Kuta Cultural Park Kampial Golf C É SULUBAN Bali Golf Tembeling Tanglad Atuh BEACH A Beach PRESQU’ÎLE DE BUKIT & Country Club N Pura Luhur Uluwatu ★ Kutuh I N Ungasan D Uluwatu I E Pecatu GEGER N BEACH N PANDAWA BEACH N 2 km TIMBIS BEACH 5 km 49 LE SUD LES INCONTOURNABLES U 6JIMBARAN (p.84) pour ses marchés et ses restaurants de fruits de mer au bord de l’eau. 6LES PLAGES DU BUKIT (p.86) pour 6NUSA LEMBONGAN (p.102) pour ses leurs excellents spots de surf. plages de rêve, sa mangrove intacte et ses fonds poissonneux. 50 LE SUD LES INCONTOURNABLES 6LE PURA LUHUR ULUWATU (p.88) pour son site imprenable et ses crépuscules flamboyants. 6LE COUCHER DU SOLEIL SUR UNE PLAGE DE SEMINIYAK OU DE CANGGU (p.76) Un rituel salué par un apéritif, prélude à une soirée festive ! 51 LE SUD NOS CONSEILS XDes suggestions pratiques et de petites astuces pour découvrir le sud de Bali sans fausse note ! C Fêtez les arts balinais saturé de compagnies en tout genre, En juin- juillet, quatre semaines aux tarifs parfois fantaisistes et aux durant, la municipalité de Denpasar chauffeurs souvent désagréables. organise un grand festival des arts Privilégiez la société Blue Bird ou traditionnels balinais dans l’enceinte commandez un taxi indépendant du Taman Budaya Bali – Bali Art avec l’appli GRAB, cf. Transports Center. Les orchestres de gamelan (p.318).
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