©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Aga people 190, 327 Lepang 175 Bali Art Festival of Buleleng 26, 228 Lovina 230 407 Bali Arts Festival 26-7, 118 Mawi 37, 283 Bali belly 394 Mawun 11, 283, 11 Bali Bird Park 168-9 Medewi 35, 247-8 Bali bombings 56, 318 Mushroom Bay 123 Bali Botanical Gardens 216 Nusa Dua 100 Bali Kite Festival 27, 110 Obel Obel 284 Bali Orchid Garden 107 Padangbai 185 Bali Safari & Marine Park 174 Pasir Putih 194-5 Bali Spirit Festival 26, 147 Pererenan 89 Bali starlings 168, 253, 360 Pura Masceti 175 A Bali Treetop Adventure Park 216 Purnama 175 Aas 199, 202-3 balian 152, 328 Saba 175 accommodation 5, 13, 366-8, 5, see Balian Beach 34, 246-7 Sanur 107 also individual locations Balinese language 401 Segar 282 costs 366, 367 Bangli 176-7 Selegimpak 123 internet resources 366, 367 banjar 326 Setangi 270 language 397 Banutan Beach 200-1 Siyut 175 activities 33-42, see also individual banyan trees 169, 184, 362 Tanjung Aan 283 activities Banyumulek 347 Tegal Basar 175 Agung Rai Museum of Art 139, 141 bargaining 371 Tegalwangi 95 AIDS 393 Baris 339-40 Ulu Watu 98 Air Nyet 263 & 339, 25 beauty salons, see also spas air travel basket-weaving 170, 171, 190, 278 Senggigi 265 airports 261, 379, 380, 382 bathrooms 375 142-3 to/from Bali & Lombok 379-81 baths, see also hot springs Bebandem 184 within Bali & Lombok 260-1, 382 Air Sanih 226 bedbugs 395 Airlangga, King 311 Sawan 229 Bedugul 215-16 Amed 198-203, 200 Tejakula 205 Bedulu 164 Amlapura 195-6 167 beer 334 animals 360-2, see also individual batik 344-5 Belayu 244 animals, zoos & wildlife parks Batu Koq 271-3 Belega 171 books 363 Batuan 170 Belimbingsari 250 Antosari 222 Batubulan 168 bemo travel 382-3 Anturan 231 Batur 212 Benoa 103 architecture 348-57 Bawa, Geoffrey 354 Benoa Harbour 114-15 340 Bayan 271 Beratan 226 ARMA 139, 141 beaches 22, 358-9 bicycle travel, see cycling art galleries, see museums & Balangan 11, 34, 95-6, 11 Bingin 34, 96-7 galleries Balian 34, 246-7 bird flu 393 arts 337-47, see also dance, literature, birds 253, 360, 361, see also indi- music, painting Banutan 200 vidual species books 341, 342 Berewa 88 birdwatching courses 144, 171 Bingin 34, 96-7 Petulu 136 internet resources 342 Bukit Peninsula 11, 11 Suranadi 262 ATMs 371 Canggu 34, 88 Taman Nasional Bali Barat 251 avian influenza 393 Crystal Bay 131 tours 147 Awang 283 Dream 123 Echo 89, 88 Ubud 147 Gegar 100 black magic 328 B Halfway Kuta 35 boat travel, see also cruises, kayak- babi guling 333 ing, rafting, sailing Jungutbatu 123 Bahasa 397-404 safety 384 Kelating 245 Balangan Beach 11, 34, 95-6, 96, 11 to/from Bali & Lombok 381-2 Ketewel 34, 175 tours 390 Klotek 175 within Bali & Lombok 383-4 Kuta (Bali) 13, 35, 13 000 Map Pages Bona 171 Lebih 34, 175 000 Image Pages Bonnet, Rudolf 343 Legian 35 books 308, 315 ceramics 245, 278, 279, 347 Nusa Penida 130 408 architecture 357 chemists 393 Senggigi 265 art 341, 342 children, travel with 43-6 tours 42, 265 dance 338 Christianity 250 Ubud 143, 147 food 332, 333 cidomo 388 health 392 climate 18, 33, 368, see also indi- D history 311, 315, 317, 318 vidual regions Dalem Bedaulu 164 literature 140, 310, 343-4 climate change 381

INDEX Danau Bratan 214-20, 218 music 338 cockfighting 361 Danau Buyan 217-19 plants 363 coffee 335 Danau Segara Anak 275 poetry 310 conservation, see environmental Danau Tamblingan 217-19 B-D textiles 345 issues dance 8, 160, 337-40, 8 wildlife 363 consulates 368-9 Baris 339-40 Booth, David 205 cooking courses 25, 144-6, Botanic Garden Ubud 135-6 Manggis 189 Barong & Rangda 339, 25 Brahma Vihara Arama 237 Seminyak 75 books 338 Buahan 213 Tanjung Benoa 103-4 courses 144 Budakeling 198 costs 18 338 Buddhist temples 216, 258-9 accommodation 18, 366, 367 Kecak Fire Dance 339 budgeting 18 food 336 338-9 buffalo racing 26-7, 284 taxis from airports 19 339 Bugis people 249 courses & lessons Ubud 159-60 Bukit Demulih 176 art 144, 171 dangers, see safety Bukit Jambal 180 cooking 25, 75, 103-4, 144-6, 189 Day of Silence 26, 325 Bukit Kusambi 198 cultural 144, 171 de Houtman, Cornelius 312 Bukit Peninsula 11, 92-106, 11 dance 144 death 324-6 bull racing 249 diving Bali 39, 109, 124, 185, 191 dengue fever 393 bungy jumping 57 diving Gili Islands 39, 289, 293, Denpasar 115-23, 116 Bunut Bolong 222 299, 302 accommodation 118 Bunutan 201 jewellery 144 food 118-19 bus travel 381, 384-5 kayaking 290-1 shopping 119-23 bushwalking, see hiking, walking language 370 sights 115-17 business hours 368 music 144 travel to/from 121-2 surfing 37, 57, 280 travel within 122-3 textiles 144 C walking tours 120, 120 woodcarving 144 Cakra, I Nyoman 342 Desert Point 14 Covarrubias, Miguel 343 calendars, Balinese 322, 326 development in Bali 98, 295, 308, Cowboys in Paradise 56 309, 320, see also environmental Candidasa 191-4, 192 crafts 8, 144, 344-7, 8 issues Candikuning 216-17 credit cards 371 Dewi Sri 327, 344 Canggu 34, 88, 88 cremations 324-6 diarrhoea 394 canoeing, see kayaking cruises, see also sailing disabilities, travellers with 375 car travel 19, 385-8 Gili Trawangan 289 diving 10, 21, 37-9, 125, 10, see also safety 374, 387-8 snorkelling Nusa Lembongan 124 carrageenan 129 Amed 199 Taman Nasional Bali Barat 251 caves Candidasa 191 culture 320-9 Goa Gajah 164-5, 346 far east coast (Bali) 199 courses 144, 171 Goa Jepang 215 freediving 289 cultural centres 117, 139-41 Goa Karangsari 130 Gili Air 302 internet resources 321, 342, 346 Cekik 250 Gili Islands 10, 293 tours 41, 147, 190 cell phones 19, 374 Gili Meno 299 currency 18 Celuk 169-70 Gili Trawangan 10 customs, cultural 321, 323-4, 326, Celukanbawang 237 329 Kuta (Lombok) 280 central mountains 49, 207-23, 208 customs regulations 368 Lovina 231 planning 207, 208 cycling 41-2, 383 Nusa Ceningan 125 Gili Air 303 Nusa Lembongan 124, 125 Gili Trawangan 288, 291 Nusa Penida 125 000 Map Pages Lovina 231 Padangbai 185 000 Image Pages Nusa Lembongan 128 Pemuteran 238 Pulau Menjangan 240, 254 Day of Silence 26, 325 giardiasis 394 safety 39, 394-5 Galungan 27 gigolos 65, 377 409 Sanur 107-9 284 Gilbert, Elizabeth 20, 140 Senggigi 264-5 Kuningan 27 Gili Air 302-6 Tanjung Benoa 104 Kuta Karnival 27 Gili Islands 10, 50, 286-306, 287, 10 Tulamben 204 Lebaran Topat 284 diving 10, 293 dogs 163, 361, 394 Malean Sampi 26, 284 planning 286, 287 dokar 388 North Bali Festival 228 snorkelling 10, 292 INDEX dolphin-watching 230-1 Nyale Festival 26, 282 travel to/from 288 Drake, Sir Francis 313 Nyepi 26, 325 travel within 288 drinks 334-6 Perang Topat 27 Gili Meno 299-302, 300 language 398-9 Peresean 27, 284 Gili Trawangan 15, 289-99, 290, 15 D-H driving, see car travel temple festivals 84 accommodation 292-7 driving licences 385 Ubud Writers & Readers Festival diving 10, 293 drugs 313, 373 27, 147 drinking 298 drugstores 393 Usaba Sambah Festival 190 entertainment 15, 298 ducks 361 film 65, 140 food 297-8 Dusun Senaru 272 fishing sights 289-92 Dutch colonialism 115, 174, 176, 177, environmental issues 125, 295 Gilimanuk 250-1 219, 244, 312-15 Kuta (Lombok) 280 Goa Gajah 164-5, 346 Sanur 107 goldsmiths 169-70 Southwestern Peninsula (Lombok) golf courses 96, 101, 217, 270 E 264 east Bali 48, 172-206, 173 environmental issues 360 Flores 390 planning 172, 173 Gondang 271 flowers 362-3 Eat, Pray, Love 20, 140 Gunarsa, Nyoman 179 food 6, 24, 330-6, 6, see also cooking Gunung Agung 182-4, 317 Echo Beach 89, 88 courses, individual locations economy 308 books 332, 333 Gunung Baru 14, 275, 14 egrets 136 children, for 45-6 Gunung Batukau 220-2 electricity 368 costs 336 Gunung Batur 208-14, 210 Elephant Safari Park 167 etiquette 336 166-7, 311 embassies 368-9 fruit 309 Gunung Pengsong 262 emergencies, see also medical internet resources 334 Gunung Rinjani 14, 273-7, 276, 14 services language 398-9 language 400 vegetarian 333 environmental issues, see also H freediving 289 development in Bali Habibie, Dr Bacharuddin Jusuf 318 air pollution 363 hawkers 373 Bali starlings 168, 253, 360 G health 391-6 fishing 125, 295 Gajah Mada 312 heatstroke 395 golf courses 360 galleries, see museums & galleries hepatitis A 393 internet resources 360 Galungan 27 hepatitis B 393 litter 144, 295 9, 308, 9 herons 136, 251 mining 263, 363 gardens 362-3 hiking 22, 39-41, see also walking reef conservation 239, 295 Bali Bird Park 168-9 Amed 199 tourism 308, 363 Bali Botanical Gardens 216 Bedugul 215 turtles 360, 361 Bali Orchid Garden 107 Danau Buyan 217 water 309, 359, 363 Botanic Garden Ubud 135-6 Gili Meno 299 etiquette 297, 309, 321, 329, 336 gay travellers 369 Gili Trawangan 291 events, see festivals & events geckos 360 Gunung Agung 182 exchange rates 19, 371-2 Gedong Kirtya Library 228 Gunung Batur 209-12 Gelgel 180 Gunung Rinjani 265, 274-7 Lovina 231 F Gelgel dynasty 177, 312 Gendang Beleq 284 Munduk 219-20 far east coast (Bali) 198-203, 200 geography 358 Nusa Lembongan 128 festivals & events 4, 4 geology 360 safety 41 Bali Art Festival of Buleleng 26, 228 Gerupak 283 Sembalun Valley 273 Bali Arts Festival 26-7, 118 Giant of Pejeng 165 Senaru 272 Bali Kite Festival 27, 110 Gianyar 174-6 Senggigi 265 Bali Spirit Festival 26, 147 hiking continued J Kuta Beach (Bali) 13, 35, 13 410 Sidemen 180 Jagaraga 229 Kuta cowboys 65, 377 Taman Nasional Bali Barat 252 Jatiluwih 10, 221, 10 Kuta Karnival 27 Tirta Gangga 196 jellyfish 395 Kutri 171 tours 40-1, 209-10 Jemaah Islamiyah 318 Hinduism 23, 116, 310, 311, 320, 327-8 Jembrana 250 L history 310-19 Jemeluk 200 Labuhan Lalang 253-5 Bali bombings 56, 318 Jero Gede Macaling 130

INDEX Labuhan Lombok 283 books 311, 315, 317, 318 Jimbaran 12, 92-5, 92 Lange, Mads 63, 315 Dutch colonialism 115, 174, 176, 177, Jungutbatu 123 language 397-404 219, 244, 312-15 courses 370

H-L Gelgel dynasty 177, 312 K Le Mayeur de Merpes, Adrien Jean independence 315 106-7, 343 Kalibukbuk 232-4 Lombok 311, 313, 314 Lebaran Topat 284 Kamasan 180 tourism 316 legal matters 370, 373 Kapal 243 WWII 315 Legian 54-73, 55, 58-9 kayaking, see also rafting hitchhiking 388 accommodation 63-5 courses 290-1 HIV 393 activities 56-7 Gili Trawangan 290-1 holidays 372-3 emergencies 72 Kedisan 213 homestays 6, 354, 367-8, 6 entertainment 68-70 Nusa Dua 100 horse riding festivals & events 60 Sanur 107, 109 Gili Trawangan 291 food 67-8 Southwestern Peninsula (Lombok) Kuta (Lombok) 280 264 medical services 72 Yeh Gangga 245 Ubud 36 shopping 70-3 hot springs, see also baths Kecak 338 sights 56 Aiq Kalak 276 Kecak Fire Dance 339 tours 60 Air Panas Banjar 237 Kediri 245 travel to/from 73 Gunung Rinjani 276 Kedisan 213 travel within 73 Penatahan 246 Kerambitan 245 Legong 8, 338-9, 8 Toya Bungkah 214 Kerobokan 83-7, 74-5 Lehan 202 HPPGB 209-10 Kertanagara, King 311 Lembar 263 Kintamani 212 Lembongan 123-4 I kites 8, 110, 8 Lempad, I Gusti Nyoman 134, 136, 138, 139, 141, 165, 342 ikat 116, 279, 345 Klungkung, see Semarapura Lempad’s House 142 Impossibles 34 Koke, Robert & Louise 63, 316 Lendang Nangka 278 insurance Kotaraja 278 lesbian travellers 369 health 391 kris 347 lessons, see courses & lessons travel 369 Krotok 198 Liberty shipwreck 204 vehicle 387 K’tut Tantri 315 Lipah 201-2 internet access 369-70 Kuban 213-14 literacy 343 internet resources 19 Kubu 205 literature 140, 310, 343-4, see also accommodation 366, 367 Kuningan 27 books arts 342 Kusamba 184-5 lizards 360 ceremonies 326 Kuta (Bali) 13, 47, 54-73, 55, 58-9, 13 Loloan Timur 249 culture 321, 342, 346 accommodation 54, 61-3 Lombok 50, 256-85, 257 environment 360 activities 56-7 activities 14 food 334 emergencies 72 architecture 356-7 health 392 entertainment 68-70 arts & crafts 340, 345, 346, 347 Lombok 346 festivals & events 60 culture 321-2 responsible travel 360 food 54, 66-7 customs 326 Islam 271, 297, 312, 328, see also medical services 72 food 256, 332 mosques, Wektu Telu planning 54, 55 history 311, 313, 314 itineraries 28-32, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32 shopping 70-3 internet resources 346 Ubud 136 sights 56 planning 256, 257 tours 60 women travellers 377 travel to/from 73 lontar books 228 000 Map Pages travel within 73 Lovina 230-6, 232 000 Image Pages Kuta (Lombok) 279-82 Loyok 278 M monuments & memorials N magazines 342, 369 Bajra Sandhi Monument 117, 319 nasi campur 331, 333 411 magic, black 328 Bali bombing memorial wall 56 national parks 363, see also zoos & dynasty 164, 177, 310, Cekik war memorial 250 wildlife parks 311-12, 327 Dolphin Monument 230 Taman Nasional Bali Barat 251-3, Makam Jayaprana 253 Gunung Kawi 166-7, 311 363, 252 malaria 393-4 Margarana 244 Taman Nasional Gunung Rinjani 363 Malean Sampi 26, 284 Ngurah Rai statue 317 Negara 248 INDEX Manggis 189 Puputan Monument 177 newspapers 369 mangosteens 332 Sanur stone pillar 107 Ngurah Rai, I Gusti 244, 315, 317, 317 manta rays 125, 254, 293 Tanah Aron 198

Ni Polok 106-7 M-P maps 371 Yudha Mandala Tama 227 Nirartha 248, 249-50, 310, 312 Marga 244 mosques north Bali 49, 224-40, 225 markets 24, 331, 336 Masjid Gelgel 180 planning 224, 225 Candikuning 216 Masjid Kuno 279 North Bali Festival 228 Denpasar 119-21 Masjid Kuno Bayan Beleq 271 Nusa Ceningan 128-9 Jimbaran 92-3, 94 motorcycle travel 385-8, 389 Nusa Dua 100-3, 102 Kintamani 212 Muller, Peter 354 Nusa Lembongan 123-8, 126 Mataram 260 Muncan 184 Nusa Penida 129-31 Semarapura 179 Munduk 219-20 Nyale Festival 26, 282 Tanjung Luar 283 Museum Puri Lukisan 136 Nyepi 26, 325 Mas 170-1 museums & galleries Masbagik 278 Adi’s Gallery 142 Masbagik Timor 278 Agung Rai Gallery 141 O masks 144, 170, 171, 346 Agung Rai Museum of Art 139, 141 offerings 7, 320-1, 344, 7 massages 5, 22 Blanco Renaissance Museum 141 ogoh-ogoh 325 Candidasa 191-2 Ganeesha Gallery 93 ojek 389 Denpasar 118 Ketut Rudi Gallery 142 opening hours 368 Kerobokan 84 Komaneka Art Gallery 141 opium 313 Kuta (Bali) 57 Lempad’s House 142 Legian 57 Museum Buleleng 228 P Lovina 231 Museum Le Mayeur 106-7 Padangbai 185-9, 186 Seminyak 75 Museum Negeri Nusa Tenggara painting 136, 138, 170, 180, 341-3, see Barat 259 Senggigi 265 also individual artists Museum Negeri Propinsi Bali 115-16 Ubud 142-3 palaces 349 Museum Purbakala 165 Mataram 258-62, 258 Mayura Water Palace 259 Museum Puri Lukisan 136 Mawun 11, 283, 11 Puri Agung Karangasem 195 Museum Rudana 141 McPhee, Colin 142, 146, 343, 357 Puri Agung Kerambitan 245 Museum Semarajaya 178 measures 369 Puri Anyar Kerambitan 245 Museum Situs Purbakala Gili- Puri Gede 195 Medewi 35, 247-8 manuk 251 Puri Gianyar 174 medical services 392-3 Neka Art Museum 138 Taman Kertha Gosa 177-8 traditional healers 152, 328 Neka Gallery 141 Taman Tirta Gangga 196 Meier, Theo 180 Nyoman Gunarsa Museum 179 Taman Ujung 196 memorials, see monuments & Pasifika Museum 100 memorials Ubud Palace 133-4 Pranoto’s Art Gallery 142 Mendira 189-90 Palasari 250 Rio Helmi Gallery 141-2 mobile phones 19, 374 Pancasari 217 Seniwati Gallery of Art by Women passports 375, 376, 379 money 18, 19, 371-2 141 Pecatu Indah 96 monkeys Setia Darma House of Masks & Pejaten 245 Bukit Sari 244 Puppets 171 Pejeng 165-6 central mountains 219 Suar Gallery 180 Pelaga 215 Pulaki 238 Subak Museum 245 Pemuteran 238-40 Pura Luhur Ulu Watu 15, 99 Symon Studio 141 Penarukan 245 Senaru 272 Threads of Life 141 Penelokan 212 Taman Nasional Bali Barat 251, music 9, 308, 340 penjor 327 360 books 338 Penujak 279 Ubud 135 courses 144 Penulisan 213 Pura Dalem (Sidan) 176 Puri Gede 195 412 Perancak 249-50 Pura Dalem Agung 135 Puri Gianyar 174 Perang Topat 27 Pura Dalem Penetaran Ped 131 Puri Saren Agung 133-4 Peresean 27, 284 Pura Dalem Penunggekan 176 Putung 184 Petulu 136 Pura Dasar 170 pharmacies 393 Pura Dasar Bhuana 180 R phonecards 374 Pura Desa Ubud 134 rabies 394 photography 372 Pura Erjeruk 175

INDEX radio 369 Pita Maha 136, 342 Pura Gaduh 171 rafting 36, 143, see also kayaking planning, see also individual regions Pura Gegar 100 Ramadan 269 activities 33-42 Pura Gili Kencana 254 reef conservation 239, 295 P-S Bali & Lombok basics 18 185, 356 religion 309, 327-9, see also Bali & Lombok’s regions 47-51 Pura Gunung Payung 99 Christianity, Hinduism, Islam, budgeting 18 Pura Jagat Natha (Singaraja) 228 Wektu Telu calendar of events 26-7 Pura Jagatnatha (Denpasar) 116 Rembitan 279 children 43-6 Pura Kebo Edan 165-6 Rendang 184 cycling 41-2 Pura Kedarman 171 responsible travel 144, 295, 359-60 diving 37-9 176 restaurants, see food hiking 39-41 Pura Krobokan 167 rice farming 10, 246, 308, 327, internet resources 19 Pura Lempuyang 197, 356 359, 10 itineraries 28-32, 28, 29, 30, Pura Lingsar 262 Rimba Reptile Park 169 31, 32 Pura Luhur Batukau 221-2, 356 Rungkang 278 repeat visitors 20 Pura Luhur Ulu Watu 15, 98, 356, 15 snorkelling 37-9 Pura Maduwe Karang 230 S surfing 33-7 117 Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary 135 travel seasons 18 Pura Marajan Agung 134 Sade 279 plants 360, see also banyan trees, Pura Mas Suka 99 safety 373-4 flowers Pura Masceti 73, 175 boat travel 384 books 363 Pura Melanting 238 children 44 Po Hwa Kong 258-9 Pura Mengening 167 diving 39, 394-5 pony carts 388 Pura Meru 258 hiking 41 population 308 Pura 248 hitchhiking 388 postal services 372 Pura Penataran Agung 181-2 jellyfish 395 pottery 245, 278, 279, 347 Pura Penataran Sasih 166 road 374, 387-8 Praya 279 Pura Petitenget 73 swimming 374 Puaya 170 Pura Ponjok Batu 226 sailing 289, 390, see also cruises public holidays 372-3 Pura Pulaki 238 Sampalan 130 Pujung 168 Pura Puncak Penulisan 213 Sangeh 244 Pulau Menjangan 254 Pura Puseh 170 Sanghyang 339 Pulau Serangan 114 Pura Puseh Batubulan 168 Sangsit 229 puppets 82-3, 160, 170-1, 340-1 Pura Pusering Jagat 166 Sanur 106-14, 108 Pupuan 222 Pura Rambut Siwi 248, 356 accommodation 109-11 puputan 177, 313-14 Pura Sadat 243 drinking 113 Pura Batu Bolong 229, 264 Pura Sakenan 114 food 111-13 Pura Batu Klotek 175 Pura Samuan Tiga 165 shopping 113-15 Pura Batumejan 87 Pura Segara (Lebih) 175 sights 106-7 Pura Beji 229 Pura Segara (Nusa Lembongan) 123 travel to/from 114 Pura Besakih 181-2, 182 Pura Segara Tegalwangi 95 travel within 114 Pura Bukit Mentik 214 Pura Silayukti 185 Sapit 273 Pura Bukit Sari 244 Pura Suranadi 262 278, 284, 321, 333 Pura Bukit Tageh 180 243-4 language 401 Pura Candidasa 191 134 Sawan 229 Pura Dalem (Jagaraga) 229 Pura Taman Sari 178 scams 373 Pura Dalem (Sangsit) 229 Pura 243, 356, 313 scuba diving, see diving, snorkelling 216, 217 seaweed farming 129 Pura Ulun Siwi 92 Sebatu 168 000 Map Pages Puri Agung Karangasem 195 Sekotong 263 000 Image Pages Puri Agung Kerambitan 245 Selang 202 Selong 284 songket 116, 178, 180, 227, 244, Padang Padang 35 Selong Blanak 283 279, 344 Pulau Serangan 35 413 Semarapura 177-9, 178 south Bali & the islands 48, 90- Sanur 35, 107 Semaya 131 123, 91 schools 37 Sembalun Valley 273-4 planning 90, 91 Senggigi 264-5 Sembiran 205 Southwestern Peninsula (Lombok) south coast (Bali) 35-6 263-4 Seminyak 47, 54-5, 73-83, 55, 74-5 Ulu Watu 36, 98 spas 5, 22, 84 accommodation 54, 75-8 sustainable travel 144, 295, 359-60 Candidasa 191 INDEX activities 75 swastikas 328 Kerobokan 84 drinking 80 swimming 57, 176, 196, 226, 236-7, Kuta 57 262, 263, 272, see also baths,

entertainment 81 Legian 57 hot springs S-T food 54, 78-80 Lovina 231 safety 374 medical services 83 Nusa Dua 101 planning 54-5 Sanur 107 shopping 81-3 T Seminyak 75 sights 73-5 Tabanan 244-5 Senggigi 265 travel to/from 83 Taman Burung 299 Ubud 142-3 Senaru 271-3 Taman Kertha Gosa 177-8 Spies, Walter 115, 139, 180, 308, 342, Taman Nasional Bali Barat 251-3, Senggigi 264-70, 266 343, 346 363, 252 Sengkidu 189-90 Spies house 142 Seraya 199 Taman Nasional Gunung Rinjani 363, starlings, Bali 168, 253, 360 see also Gunung Rinjani Seririt 237 STDs 393 Taman Tirta Gangga 196 Sesaot 263 stick fighting 278, 284 Taman Ujung 196 Setia Darma House of Masks & stone carving 168, 346-7 Puppets 171 Taman Wedhi Budaya 117 suckling pig 333 Tampaksiring 166-7 shadow puppets, see puppets Suharto, President 316, 317-18 Tanglad 131 shopping 25, see also individual Sukaraja 284 locations Tanjung Benoa 103-6 Sukarara 279 language 400 Tanjung Luar 283 Sukarno, President 315, 316 shipping 372 Tantri, K’tut 315 Sukarnoputri, Megawati 318-19 Sidan 176 taxis 382, 389 Sukawati 170 Sidemen 180, 181 tea 335 sunburn 395-6 Sidemen road 180-1 Tegalambengam 246 sunfish 10, 21, 125 silversmiths 169-70, 226-7, 278 Tegallalang 167 Suranadi 262-3 Singapadu 169 Tejakula 205 surfing 12, 14, 21, 33-7, 34, 12, 14 Singaraja 226-9, 227 telephone services 19, 374 Balangan 34 Sire 270-1 Teluk Penyu 195 Balian 34, 246 Skype 374 temples 23, 349-52, 356, see also Bingin 34, 96-7 individual temples Smit, Arie 138, 141, 142, 342 Canggu 34 festivals 84 snorkelling 10, 16, 21, 16, see courses 37, 57, 280 Tenganan 190-1 also diving Desert Point 14, 36 tennis 292 Amed 199 Ekas 285 terrorism 318 Candidasa 191 equipment 37 Tetebatu 277-8 far east coast (Bali) 199 Gerupak 37 textiles 141, 174-5, 344-5, see also Gili Air 302 Gili Air 302 ikat, songket Gili Islands 10, 292 Gili Trawangan 37, 290-1 books 345 Gili Meno 299 Halfway Kuta 35 courses 144 Gili Pentangan 284 Impossibles 34 theatre 340-1 Gili Sulat 284 Ketewel 34 theft 72, 374 Gili Trawangan 289 Kuta (Bali) 35, 57 Tibubiyu 246 Lovina 231 Kuta (Lombok) 279 ticks 395 Nusa Lembongan 124 Lebih 34 Tihingan 179 Padangbai 185-6 Legian 35 time 374-5 Pemuteran 238 Lombok 14 tipping 372 Pulau Menjangan 240, 254 Mawi 37, 283 Tirta Empul 166-7, 22 Senggigi 264-5 Medewi 35, 247-8 Tirta Gangga 196-8 Tulamben 204 Nusa Dua 35 Tirta Telaga Tista 184 Songan 214 Nusa Lembongan 124 Tisna, Anak Agung Pandji 343 toilets 375 sights 133-42 water parks 414 tooth filing 324, 326 tours 147 Taman Rekreasi Bedugul 215 tourist information 375 travel to/from 163 Waterborn Park 57 tours 389-90, see also cruises, travel within 163-4 kulit, see puppets walking tours walking tours 143, 145-6, 145, 146 weather 18, 33, 368, see also birdwatching 147 Ubud Palace 133-4 individual regions boat 390 Ubud Writers & Readers Festival weaving, see textiles bull racing 249 27, 147 websites, see internet resources INDEX cultural 41, 147, 190 Ujung 196, 199 weights 369 cycling 42, 265 Ulu Watu 97-9, 96 Wektu Telu 272, 328-9 dolphin-watching 230-1 Ungasan 99-100 west Bali 49, 241-55, 242

T-Z gay & lesbian 369 Usaba Sambah Festival 190 planning 241-2 hiking 40-1, 209-10 white-water rafting 36, 143 village life 129, 184, 190, 215, V wildlife, see animals, plants 377, 390 vacations 372-3 wildlife parks, see zoos & wildlife touts 373 vaccinations 391-2 parks Toya Bungkah 214 vegetarian travellers 333 wine 335 Toya Mampeh 214 video systems 369 women in Bali & Lombok 323 Toyapakeh 130 villa accommodation 367 women travellers 377 traditional healers 152, 328 village life health 396 tramping, see hiking tours 129, 184, 190, 215, 377, 390 woodcarving 170, 345-6 travel seasons 18 visas 375-6 courses 144 travel to/from Bali & Lombok 379-82 volcanoes 25, 358 work 377-8 travel within Bali & Lombok 382-90 Gunung Baru 14, 275, 14 WWII 315 trees 362 Gunung Batukau 220-2 banyan 168, 184 Gunung Batur 208-14, 210 trekking, see hiking Gunung Rinjani 14, 273-7, 276, 14 Y Yeh Gangga 245 Trunyan 213-14 volunteering 376-7 Yeh Pulu 165 Tuban 62 von Holzen, Heinz 103-4, 332, 333 accommodation 60-1 Yeh Sanih 226 food 65-6 yoga Tulamben 204-5 W Amed 200, 203 Wahid, Abdurrahman 318 Turtle Island 114 Candidasa 191 walking, see hiking turtles 114, 238, 289, 299, 360, 361 Gili Trawangan 292 walking tours 22 typhoid 394 Kerobokan 89 Denpasar 120, 120 Seririt 237 Ubud 143, 145, 146, 147, 145, 146 Sidemen road 181 U Wallace Line 362 Ubud 142-3 Ubud 8, 48, 132-64, 134, 137 water 309, 327, 359, 363 accommodation 132, 147-54 waterfalls activities 142-3 Air Terjun Gangga 271 Z courses 143-7 Air Terjun Gitgit 229-30 zoos & wildlife parks drinking 158-9 Air Terjun Joben 277 Bali Bird Park 168-9 emergencies 162 Air Terjun Jukut 277 Bali Safari & Marine Park 174 entertainment 159-60 Air Terjun Sindang Gila 271 Elephant Safari Park 167 festivals & events 147 Air Terjun Singsing 236-7 Rimba Reptile Park 169 food 132, 154-8 Air Terjun Tiu Kelep 272 Sacred Monkey Forest medical services 162 Air Terjun Tiu Pupas 271 Sanctuary 135 planning 132, 133 Air Terjun Yeh Mampeh 205 Taman Burung 299 shopping 160-4 Pujungan 222

000 Map Pages 000 Image Pages 415

These symbols will help you find the listings you want: Look out for Sights Festivals & Events Entertainment 1 z 3 these icons: 2 Activities 4 Sleeping 7 Shopping Our author’s o recommendation C Courses 5 Eating 8 Information/ Transport F No payment T Tours 6 Drinking required A green or S sustainable option These symbols give you the vital information for each listing: Our authors have nominated % Telephone Numbers W Wi-Fi Access g Bus these places as demonstrating a strong commitment to h s f Opening Hours Swimming Pool Ferry sustainability – for example by p Parking v Vegetarian Selection m Metro supporting local communities n Nonsmoking E English-Language Menu b Subway and producers, operating in an a Air-Conditioning c Family-Friendly t London Tube environmentally friendly way, or supporting conservation i Internet Access # Pet-Friendly j Tram projects. d Train Reviews are organised by author preference.

Map Legend Sights Entertainment Routes Boundaries Ù Beach ý Entertainment Tollway International Ú Buddhist Freeway State/Province Shopping V Castle Primary Disputed þ Shopping Ü Christian Secondary Regional/Suburb Þ Hindu Information Tertiary Marine Park ß Islamic ì Bank Lane Cliff à Jewish í Embassy/ Unsealed Road Wall á Monument Consulate Plaza/Mall Hydrography â Museum/Gallery î Hospital/Medical Steps River, Creek ä Ruin ð Internet Tunnel Intermittent River ê Winery/Vineyard ñ Police Pedestrian Swamp/Mangrove ë Zoo ò Post Office Overpass Reef æ Other Sight ó Telephone Walking Tour Canal ô Toilet Walking Tour Activities, Courses Water ï Tourist Information Detour & Tours Dry/Salt/ # Other Information Path Ý Diving/Snorkelling Intermittent Lake Û Canoeing/Kayaking Transport Geographic Glacier å Skiing – Airport U Hut/Shelter Areas ç Surfing + Border Crossing õ Lighthouse Beach/Desert ã Swimming/Pool › Bus ö Lookout è Walking ¤ Cable Car/ R Mountain/Volcano Cemetery é Windsurfing Funicular ø Oasis (Christian) # Other Activity/ , Cycling ÷ Park Cemetery (Other) Course/Tour Ferry c Pass Park/Forest Sleeping ¡ Metro ù Picnic Area ÿ Sleeping ¢ Monorail Y Waterfall Sportsground S Camping . Parking Population Sight (Building) - Petrol Station Eating _ Capital (National) ˜ Taxi Top Sight ú Eating ^ Capital £ Train/Railway (Building) (State/Province) Drinking ¤ Tram ] City/Large Town û Drinking # Other Transport ] Town/Village ü Cafe ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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