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many more including Samuel L Bronkowitz. Huge OUR READERS thanks to Amy, the rest of the family and Charlie, who Many thanks to the travellers who used the last never once ate my shoes. Love to Alexis Ver Berk- edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful moes, we’ll always have (Lada Warung or not). advice and interesting anecdotes: Ana Tiganescu, Ed Cox, George Nelis, Germma Marjaya, Johannes Feddersen, Kate Larson, Kirsty ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Spence, Krissi Hall, Kristian Folkman, Marek Porzycki, Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson Marina Abate, Maxime Smits, Meaghan Philpott, Mim BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Nelson-Gillett, Peter Neundorfer, Rudi Peeters, Sarah Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Westelinck, Todd Robins, Valeria Parrini, Vincent Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344. Janssen Cover photograph: woman carrying flowers through rice paddies, Martin Puddy/Getty © WRITER THANKS Ryan Ver Berkmoes Many thanks to friends like Patticakes, Ibu Cat, Hanafi, Stuart, Suzanne, Rucina, Neal, Jenny and Phillip, Ani, Nicoline, Eliot Cohen, Pascal and Pika and

Destination Editors Sarah Innes, Kellie Langdon, Kate THIS BOOK Reid, Dora Whitaker Mathews, Anne Mulvaney, This 16th edition of Lonely Product Editor Kate Kiely Fionnuala Twomey, Simon Wil- liamson, Gabrielle Stefanos Planet’s Bali & Lombok Senior Cartographer Julie guidebook was researched and Sheridan Cartographer Julie Dodkins written by Ryan Ver Berkmoes, Book Designer Katherine Cover Researcher Naomi who also wrote the previous Marsh Parker edition, and curated by Kate Janet Thanks to Andi Jones, Lauren Morgan. This guidebook was Assisting Editors Austin, Judith Bamber, Melanie Keith, Claire Naylor, Karyn produced by the following: Dankel, Kate James, Gabrielle Noble, Lauren O’Connell ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 407

Index

A Balangan Beach 107-9, Blue Lagoon Beach 207 Pantai Selong Blanak 296 Aas 224 108, 9 Bukit Peninsula 9 Pantai Siyut 197 Abang 234 Bali Aga people 212, 334 Crystal Bay Beach 145 Pantai Tanjung Sanghyang accommodation 376-8 Bali Arts Festival 23, 131, Double Six Beach 52 136 25, 356 language 398 Dream Beach (east Pantai Ujung 218 Bali Barat National Park activities 23-5, 32-41, see Bali) 216 Pasir Putih 216 259-60, 259 also individual activities Dream Beach (Nusa Pemuteran Beach 254 Bali belly 396 agriculture 341, see also Lembongan) 137 Pererenan Beach 101 subak Bali Bird Park 191-2 Echo Beach 100 Prancak Beach 96 Air Panas Banjar 253 Bali bombings 329 Gegar Beach 115-16 Sanur Beach 121 air travel 386-7 Memorial Wall 53 Gili Air 314 Seminyak Beach 78 airlines 386-7 Bali Botanic Garden 236 Gili Meno 310 Sire 283 alcohol 321, 348-9 Bali Kite Festival 24, Gili Trawangan 300-1 Suluban Beach 113 124, 25 alcohol poisoning 382, 395 Green Bowl Beach 114 Tanjung Aan 294 Bali Orchid Garden 121 Amed 220-4, 221 Heaven Beach 295 Tegalwangi Beach 106 Bali Safari & Marine Park Amlapura 216-17 Impossibles Beach 111 Tuban Beach 52 196 Ampenan 276 Jimbaran Beach 104 Virgin Beach 216 Balian Beach 266-7 amusement parks Jungutbatu Beach 136 Bebandem 206 Balinese language 402 Bali Safari & Marine Kerobokan Beach 88 bedbugs 397 bamboo 367 Park 196 Kuta (Lombok) 290-1 Bedugul 235 Bangli 198-9 Bali Treetop Adventure Kuta Beach 15, 52, 15, 65 Bedulu 183-4 Bangsal 283 Park 236-7 Kuta Reef Beach 52 beer 345, Banutan 222-3 344 Waterbom Park 53 Legian Beach 52 Belega 190 Banyuning 223 animal welfare 182, 268, 370 Lovina 248 Belimbingsari 268-9 Banyuwedang 258 animals 370-1, see also zoos Nelayan Beach 96 bemos 387-9 & wildlife reserves, bargaining 382 Nusa Dua 115 Benoa Bay individual species Barong 351, 356 Padang Padang Beach 111 reclamation project Antosari 242 Barong Landung 144 Padangbai 207 320-1 Anturan 250, 251 basket-weaving 190, 359-60 Pandawa Beach 115 Benoa Harbour 128 arak 382, 395 Bat Cave Temple 207 Pantai Bumbangku 295 bicycle travel, see cycling architecture 362-8 bathrooms 384 Pantai Dagong 295 Big Tree Farms 188 area codes 19 batik 359 Pantai Keramas 197 Bingin 109-11 art galleries, see museums Batuan 190 Pantai Ketewel 197 bio rocks 255 & galleries Batubulan 192 Pantai Klotek 196 bird flu 395 arts 350-61, see also Batur 232-3 Pantai Lebih 196 birds 370 individual arts Bayan 284 Pantai Lepang 197 birdwatching courses 160, 186 beaches 21, 65-7 ATMs 380 Pantai Masceti 197 Bali Barat National Park Balangan Beach 107-9, Pantai Mawi 296 259 108, 9 Pantai Medewi 267 Bali Bird Park 191-2 Balian Beach 266-7 B Pantai Mengening 263 Petulu 155 babi guling 346-7 Banutan Beach 222 Pantai Patra Jasa 52 Singapadu 191-2 Bahasa 398-405 Batu Bolong Beach 96 Pantai Pering 197 Ubud 160 Batubelig Beach 88 Pantai Purnama 197 black magic 212, 335 Berawa Beach 96 Map Pages 000 Pantai Segar 294 Blahbatuh 188-9 Bias Tugal 207 Photo Pages 000 Pantai Selegimpak 136 Blongas 297 Bingin Beach 109 408 boat travel ceremonies 335-40 Danau Tamblingan 238-9 drugs 382 safety 142, 388 chemists 395 dance 15, 179, 350-2, 356 Dutch influence 324-5 to/from Bali & Lombok children, travel with dangers, see safe travel 387 42-5, 53 dengue fever 395 within Bali & Lombok chocolate 188 E Denpasar 128-36, 130 east Bali 47, 193-227, 194 388 cinema 320-1 accommodation 131-2 accommodation 193 INDEX INDEX boat trips & cruises climate 18, 23-5, 378 activities 129-31 climate 193 Bali Barat National climate change 373, 386 drinking 133 food 193 Park 259 clinics 394-5 festivals 131 highlights 194 B-F Kedisan 233  coffee 349 food 132-3 Nusa Lembongan 138 travel seasons 193

coffee luwak 189, 349  medical services 135 East Bali Poverty Project Teluk Gilimanuk 260 consulates 379 sights 128-9 385 Bodong 144-5 cooking courses 342 transport to/from 135-6 Eat, Pray, Love 178 Bona 190 Gili Air 316 transport within 136 Echo Beach 20, 100-1, 95 Bonnet, Rudolf 353 Gili Trawangan 302 walking tours 134, 134 Ekas 295 books 320-1 Lovina 249 departure tax 387 electricity 378 arts 350, 351. 354 Sanur 122 diarrhoea 396 embassies 379 Eat, Pray, Love, 178 Tanjung Benoa 118-19 disabilities, travellers emergencies 19, see also food 343, 347 Ubud 160-2 with 384 medical services history 325, 330 courses, see also cooking diving 10, 12, 36-7, 70, language 401 Brahma Vihara Arama 253 courses 396, 70 environment 369-74 Buahan 233-4 art 160, 186 Amed 220 environmental issues 112, diving 37, 122 Bukit Mundi 146 Batu Aba 145 373-4 jewellery making 160 Bukit Peninsula 9, 104-20 Blongas Bay 297 development 320-1 language 131, 160, 379 resorts 20 Blue Lagoon 208 fishing 296 music 160 bull races 268 Bodong 144 Gili Islands 309 surfing 36 bus travel 387, 389 Candidasa 213 tourism 370 textiles 160 business hours 19, 381 courses 37, 122 etiquette 301, 334, 379 Covarrubias, Miguel 353 equipment 36-7 events, see festivals crafts 358-61 freediving 301 exchange rates 19 C courses 160, 186 Campuan Ridge 161 Gili Air 314 credit cards 380 Candidasa 212-15, 213 Gili Gede 277 cremation 336-7 F Candikuning 235-7 Gili Islands 308 cruises, see boat trips & fabric 198, 358-60, 356 Canggu 13, 20, 94, 96-100, Gili Meno 311-12 cruises fauna, 370-1, see also zoos 95, 13 Gili Tepekong 213 Crystal Bay Beach 145 & wildlife reserves, car travel 389-91 Gili Trawangan 301 individual species culture 21, 320-1, 331-41 carrageenan 143 Kuta (Lombok) 291-2 ferries, see boat travel currency 18 caves Lovina 248-9 festivals 23-5 customs regulations 378 Goa Gajah 184 Nusa Lembongan 138, Bali Arts Festival 23, 131, cycling 39-40, 389 Goa Karangsar 145 139 25, 356 Danau Batur area 234 207 Nusa Penida 143-4 Bali Kite Festival 24, Gili Air 314 Cekik 269-70 Padangbai 208 124, 25 Gili Trawangan 302 Ceking 187 Pemuteran 254-5 Galungan 24 Lovina 249 cell phones 18, 383 Pulau Menjangan 257 Kuningan 24 Nusa Lembongan 138-9 Celuk 192 Sanur 121 Nyale Festival 23, 292 Nusa Penida 143-4 Cemagi 263-4 Senggigi 279-80 Nyepi (Day of Silence) 218-19 central mountains 47, 228- Teluk Jepun 208 23, 337 tours 39-40 42, 229 Tulamben 225-6 Ramadan 284, 301 Ubud 158-9 accommodation 228 Djirna, Made 355 Ubud Writers & Readers Umalas 94 Festival 24, 162 climate 228 dogs 182 films 320-1 food 228 dokar 391 flora 371-3 highlights 229 D dolphins 72, 248 food 14, 22, 342-9, 345, travel seasons 228 daggers 360 Dream Beach 137 ceramics 361 Dalem Bedaulu 183, 184 345, see also cooking drinks 348-9 courses Danau Batur 233-5 coffee luwak 189, 349 babi guling 346-7 Danau Bratan 235-40, 236 Map Pages 000 language 399-400 books 343, 347 Danau Buyan 238-9 Photo Pages 000 driving 389-91 children, travel with 44 Danau Segara Anak 287 409 chocolate 188 187-8 insurance 379 shopping 73-4 language 399-400 Gunung Lempuyang 219 health 393 sights 52-3 vegetarian travellers Gunung Rinjani 16, 286-8, vehicle 390 tours 56 348 339, 286, 17 internet access 379 transport to/from 75 warungs 347 Gunung Seraya 219, 220 internet resources 19 transport within 75 freediving 301 Islam 335 travel seasons 50 INDEX INDEX H holidays 381 Kuta (Lombok) 290-4, 291 G handicrafts 358-61 itineraries 26-31 Kuta Beach 15, 52, 15, 65 galleries, see museums & hawkers 382 Kuta cowboys 61 -F  galleries health 159, 393-7 Kutri 189-90 J  L Galungan 24 heatstroke 396 Jagaraga 247 352 hepatitis 395 Jatiluwih rice terraces L gardens, see national hiking 37-9 241, 321 Labuhan Lalang 258-9 parks, parks & gardens Amed 220 jellyfish 397 Labuhan Lombok 297 Garuda Wisnu Kencana Bali Barat National Jembrana 267 Lange, Mads 57 Cultural Park 107 Park 259 Jembrana Coast 267-8 language 18, 398-405 gay travellers 380 Candidasa 213 Jemeluk 222 courses 131, 160, 379 Gelgel 201 Danau Buyan 238 jewellery 361 legal matters 379-80 geography 369 Danau Tamblingan 238 Jimbaran 14, 104-6, Legian 52-75, Gerupuk 294-5 54 equipment 38 105, 14 accommodation 59-60 Gianyar 197-8 Gunung Agung 205-6 Jungutan 206 beaches 52 giardiasis 396 Gunung Batukau 241 Jungutbatu 136, 137-8, drinking 63, 73 Gilbert, Elizabeth 178 139-40 Gunung Batur 231-2 food 63-4 Gili Air 314-18, 315 Gunung Rinjani 285-8 medical services 74-5 Gili Asahan 277 highlights 38 nightlife 73 Gili Gede 277 K Lovina 249 Kalibukbuk 250-2 safety 74 Gili Islands 12, 48, 298-318, safety 39 kayaking 316 299 sights 52-3 Senaru 284-5 Kecak 351, 356 accommodation 298 transport to/from 75 Senggigi 280 Kedisan 233-4 climate 298 transport within 75 Sideman 202 Kerambitan 265 diving 308 Legong 351-2, 356 Tirta Gangga 218 Kerobokan 88-94, food 298 76 Lehan 223 tours 39 Kerobokan Jail 88, 330 highlights 299 Lembar 276 Hillside 140 Keruak 297 itineraries 31 Lembongan 138 Hinduism 333-4 Kiadan Pelaga 238 transport 299-300 Lempad, I Gusti Nyoman history 322-30 Kintamani 232-3 154 travel seasons 298 Bali bombings 329 kites, see Bali Kite Festival Les 227 Gili Meno 310-14, 311, 22 books 325, 330 kitesurfing 53, 121, 291 lesbian travellers 380 Gili Trawangan 16, 300-10, Hindu influence 323 302, 304, 2, 67 kopi luwak 189, 349 LGBT travellers 380 independence 326 accommodation 303-7 Kotaraja 289 Lipah 223 Suharto era 328-9 activities 301-2 kris 360 literature, see books volcanic eruptions 328 beaches 300-1 Kuban 234 Lombok 48, 271-97, 272 WWII 326 drinking 308-10 Kubu 227 accommodation 271 hitchhiking 391 food 307-8 Kuningan 24 climate 271 HIV 395 nightlife 308-10 Kusamba 196-7, 207 food 271 holidays 381 safety 306 Kuta (Bali) 11, 46, 50-101 highlights 272 hospitals 394-5 shopping 310 accommodation 50, itineraries 31 hot springs 57-9, , , transport to/from 310 51 54 11 travel seasons 271 Danau Segara Anak 287 activities 53-6 Gilimanuk 270 Lovina 247-53, 248 Kedisan 233 beaches 52 golf courses accommodation 249-51 Lovina 253 climate 50 Nusa Dua 115 activities 248-9 Toya Bungkah 234-5 drinking 63, 64-73 Pancasari 237-8 beaches 248 Yeh Sanih 245 emergencies 75 Gondang 284 courses 249 food 50, 61-3 Green School 367 drinking 252 highlights 51 Gunung Agung 205-7, I food 251-2 226-7 ikat 356, 359 medical services 74-5 nightlife 252 Gunung Batukau 240-2 Indonesian language nightlife 11, 64-73 sights 248 Gunung Batur 229-35, 230 398-405 safety 74 tours 249 410 Lovina continued money 18, 380-1 Threads of Life Pancasari 237-8 transport to/from 252-3 monkeys 154, 45, 166 Indonesian Textile Arts Pandawa Beach 115 transport within 253 monuments & memorials Centre 181 Pantai Segar 294 Bajra Sandhi Monument Tonyraka Art Gallery 186 parks & gardens, see also 129 Muncan 206 national parks M Gunung Kawi 187-8 Munduk 239-40 Bali Bird Park 191-2 macaques 154, 45, 166 INDEX INDEX Margarana 264 music 352-3 Bali Botanic Garden 236 Mada, Gajah 323 Memorial Wall 53 courses 160 Bali Orchid Garden 121 malaria 395 Monument Garuda Wisnu Kencana Manggis 211 L-P 200-1 Cultural Park 107  Mangsit 281 N stone pillar 121 Mayura Water 274 manta rays 72 names 332 187 Puputan Square 129 Marga 264 nasi campur 343 war memorial 270 Pasir Putih 216 marine life 72, 370-1 national parks mosques passports 384-5 markets 343, 345 Bali Barat National Park Masjid Gelgel 201 259-60, 259 Pecatu 104 Bangli 199 Masjid Kuno 290 Batur Caldera Geopark Ped 144-6 Bebandem 206 Masjid Kuno Bayan 229 Pejaten 265 Candikuning 236 Beleq 284 Gunung Rinjani National Pejeng 184-5 Denpasar 133 motorcycle travel 389-91 Park 286-8, 286 Pemuteran 254-8 Gianyar 198 movies 320-1 Negara 268 Penelokan 232 Gili Trawangan 310 Muncan 206 nightlife 21, see also Penujak 290 Jimbaran 104 Munduk 239-40 individual locations Penulisan 233 Jimbaran Fish Market museums & galleries north Bali 47, 243-60, 244 Perancak 268 104 Agung Rai Gallery 155 accommodation 243 Pererenan Beach 101 Kampung Arab 133 Agung Rai Museum of climate 243 Petulu 155 Kintamani 233 Art 154-5 food 243 pharmacies 395 Kubu 227 Blanco Renaissance highlights 244 planning Lembongan 138 Museum 153-4 travel seasons 243 Bali & Lombok basics Mataram 275 Batur Geopark Museum Nusa Ceningan 142-3 18-19 Pancasari 237 232 Nusa Dua 114-18, 116 Bali & Lombok’s regions Pasar Badung 133 Kendra Gallery 87 Nusa Lembongan 136- 46-8 Pasar Kumbasari 133 Ketut Rudi Gallery 155 42, 137 budgeting 19 Semarapura 199 Kody & Ko 87 Nusa Penida 20, 143-6, 41 calendar of events 23-5 Seraya 217 Komaneka Art Gallery Nyale Festival 23, 292 children, travel with 42-5 152 Seririt 253 Nyepi (Day of Silence) costs 376, 379 Museum Arca 185 Sukawati Market 191 23, 337 health 393-4 Museum Buleleng 246 Tulamben 225 internet resources 19 Museum Le Mayeur 120 Ubud 172, 175, 176 O itineraries 26-31 Museum Manusia marriage 336 offerings 340 repeat visitors 20 Purbakala Gilimanuk Mas 185-6 270 ogoh-ogoh 337 travel seasons 18, 23-5 masks 360-1 Museum Negeri Propinsi ojek 391-2 plants 371-3 Masriadi, Nyoman 355 Bali 128-9 opening hours 19, 381 politics 321, 330 Mataram 274-6, 275 Museum Puri Lukisan outdoor activities 32-41 pony carts 391 Mawun (Mawan) 296 149 population 321 McPhee, Colin 154, 353 Museum Rudana 155 postal services 381 measures 379 P Neka Art Museum 152-3 Padang Padang 111-12 pottery 361 Medewi 267-8 Neka Gallery 149, 152 Padangbai 207-11, 208 Praya 290 medical services 394-5, Nyoman Gunarsa painting 353-8 processions 9 see also individual Museum 201-2 Puaya 190-1 locations Pasifika Museum 115 Klungkung Palace 200 public holidays 381 memorials, see Pranoto’s Art Gallery 155 monuments & Puri Agung Karangasem Pulaki 254 Rio Helmi Gallery & memorials 216-17 Pulau Menjangan 257 Cafe 178 mobile phones 18, 383 Puri Anyar Kerambitan Pulau Serangan 128 Setia Darma House of 265 puppets 180, 186 Masks & Puppets 186 Puri Gede 217 Pupuan 242 Symon Studios 245 Taman Tirta Gangga 218 Pura Besakih 204-5, 205 Map Pages 000 Taman Wedhi Budaya 149 Pura Goa Lawah 207 Photo Pages 000 129 Palasari 268-9 411 Pura Luhur Ulu Watu 16, transport to/from 127 snorkelling 14, 36-7 T 112-13, 16 transport within 127-8 Amed 220 Tabanan 264-5 Pura Rambu Siwi 269 Sapit 289 Gili Air 314 Taman Ujung 217 Pura Sakenan 128 Sasak language 402 Gili Meno 311-12 Taman Wisata Tetebatu 263 Sasak Village 290 Gili Trawangan 301 289 Sawan 247 Kuta (Lombok) 291-2 Tampaksiring 187-8 149, 166 Sayur, Gede Suanda 355 Lovina 248-9 Tanglad 145 INDEX Pura 263, 28 scams 383 Nusa Lembongan 138 Tanjung Aan 294 Putra, Agung Mangu 355 sea turtles 72, 254, 310, Padangbai 208-9 Tanjung Benoa 118-20, 118 -Putra, Wayan Sudarna 355 372, 72 Pemuteran 254-5 Tanjung Desert 277, 278  P T  Putung 211 seaweed 143 Pulau Menjangan 257 Tanjung Luar 297 Selang 223 Senggigi 279-80 Tanjung Sanghyang 141 R Selat 206 Tulamben 225-6 taxis 392 rabies 395-6 Selong 297 Songan 235 Tegallalang 187 rafting 40-1 Selong Blanak 296-7 songket 358 Tejakula 227 Sungai Telagawaja 206 Semarapura 199-201, 200 south Bali 46, 103 telephone services 383 Ubud 159 Semaya 145 accommodation 102 Teluk Penyu 216 Ramadan 284, 301 Sembalun Valley 285-6 climate 102 Tembuku 203 Rangda 356 Sembiran 227 food 102 temples 21, 364, 365-7 religion 283, 321, 333-5 Seminyak 17, 46, 75-88 highlights 103 Bat Cave Temple 207 Rembitan 290 accommodation 50, travel seasons 102 Pura Batu Bolong 278 80-1, 51, 76, 17 Rendang 206 spas 10 Pura Batumejan 96 activities 79-80 rice 342-3, 374 Candidasa 213 Pura Batur 233 beaches 78 rice terraces 241, 321 Gili Air 315 Pura Besakih 204-5, climate 50 rituals 335-40 Gili Trawangan 302 205 drinking 84-5 road rules 391 Kerobokan 88-9 Pura Bukit Mentik 235 entertainment 86 Kuta (Bali) 53, 56 Pura Dalem Balangan food 50, 81-4 Lovina 249 107 S highlights 51 Sanur 122 Pura Dalem Jagaraga Sacred Monkey Forest medical services 88 Seminyak 79-80 247 Sanctuary 154, 166 nightlife 84-5 Senggigi 280 Pura Dalem Penetaran Sade 290 safety 88 Tanjung Benoa 118 Ped 144 safe travel 381-3 shopping 20, 86-8 Ubud 157-8 Pura Dalem arak 382, 395 Penunggekan 199 sights 78-9 Spies, Walter 154, 202, 353 Bali Barat National transport to/from 88 Pura Dalem Prancak 96 Park 260 stone carving 361, 356 travel seasons 50 Pura Dalem Sidan 197 boats 142, 388 Suana 145 Seminyak Village 20 Pura Dasar Batuan 190 children 43 subak 264-5, 339, 341 Senaru 284-5 Pura Desa Ubud 149 hiking 39 Sukaraja 297 Senggigi 278-83, 279 Pura Gaduh 189 Gili Islands 306 Sukarara 290 Seraya 217 Pura Gede Luhur Batu Kuta (Bali) 74 Sukawati 190-1 Seririt 253-4 Ngaus 263 Kuta (Lombok) 294 Sungai Ayung Valley 163 sex tourism 380 Pura Gegar 115 surfing 12, 32-6, 68, 34 Sakti 146 Pura Gili Kencana 257 shadow puppets 180, 186 courses 36 sambal 346 Pura Goa Lawah 207 sharks 72 festivals 24 Sampalan 144 Pura Gunung Lebah 152 shipwrecks 33, 138, 225, Gili Air 314 Sana, Ketut 355 308 Pura Jagatnatha 129 Gili Trawangan 301 Sanda 242 shopping 22, 133-5, see Pura Jagat Natha 246 Kuta (Bali) 53 Sangsit 247 also markets, individual Pura Kebo Edan 185 Kuta (Lombok) 291 Sanur 120-8, 122 locations 198-9 Nusa Ceningan 142 accommodation 122-4 language 401 Pura Lempuyang 219 textiles 198, 358 Nusa Dua 115 activities 121-2 Pura Lingsar 276 courses 122 Sibetan 206 Nusa Lembongan 138 Pura Luhur Batukau 241 drinking 127 Sideman 202-3 Padang Padang 111 Pura Luhur Ulu Watu 16, Sanur 121 food 125-7 Singapadu 191-2 112-13, 16 Seminyak 80 medical services 127 Singaraja 245-7 Pura Maduwe Karang nightlife 127 Sire 283 Tanjung Desert 277 247 shopping 127 Smit, Arie 154 Ulu Watu 113 129 sights 120 Snel, Han 154 swimming 245, 382, see Pura Mas Suka 114 also beaches 412 temples continued Toya Bungkah 234-5 Ujung 217 227 Pura Meru 274 Toyapakeh 145 Ulu Watu 112-14, 108 Batukandik 145 Pura Pancering Jagat traditional medicine 159 Umalas 94 Munduk 240 234 train travel 387 Ungasan 114 Singsing Dua 253 Pura 269 transport kulit 353 Pura Penataran Agung to/from Bali & Lombok weather 18, 23-5, 378 INDEX INDEX 204 386-7 V vacations 381 websites 19 Pura Penataran Sasih within Bali & Lombok vaccinations 394 weights 379 185 387-92 vegetarian travellers 348 Wektu Telu 283, 335 T-Z Pura Ponjok Batu 245 trekking, see hiking west Bali 48, 261-70, 262 Pura Puncak Penulisan visas 18, 384-5 Trunyan 234 accommodation 261 233 volcanoes 369 Tuban 52, 57, 60-1, 64, 58 Gunung Batukau 240-2 climate 261 Pura Puseh Batuan 190 Tulamben 224-6 Gunung Batur 230-2, food 261 Pura Puseh Batubulan turtles 72, 254, 310, 192 230 highlights 262 372, 72 Gunung Rinjani 286-8 travel seasons 261 Pura Pusering Jagat 185 typhoid 396 Pura Rambu Siwi 269 volunteering 146, 385 wi-fi 379 Pura Samuan Tiga 184 women in Bali & Lombok 333 Pura Silayukti 207 U Ubud 11, 47, 147-83, 148, W women travellers 385, 397 Pura Taman Ayun 263 walking tours 150, 156, 11, 28 woodcarving 360-1 Pura Taman Pule Mas accommodation 147, Campuan Ridge 161, 161 186 162-72 Denpasar 134, 134 Pura Taman Saraswati activities 155-9 Sungai Ayung Valley Y 149, 166 Yeh Gangga 265 climate 147 163, 163 Pura 201 Yeh Pulu 184 courses 160 walks Pura Tanah Lot 263, 28 Yeh Sanih 245 drinking 178-9 Batubelig Beach to Echo Beach 96 yoga 236 entertainment 179-80 Sanur beachfront 121 Gili Air 314-15 Tenganan 212 festivals 162 Ubud 164 Gili Meno 312 Tetebatu 288-9 food 147, 172-8 Wallace, Sir Alfred 373 Gili Trawangan 302 textiles 198, 358-60, 356, highlights 148 warungs 347 Kerobokan 88 see also ikat history 148 water 155, 396 Kuta (Lombok) 292 theft 383 internet access 182 water sports 119, see also Sanur 122 Tibubiyu 265 itineraries 149 diving, kitesurfing, Seminyak 80 ticks 397 medical services 182-3 rafting, snorkelling, Ubud 157-8 Tihingan 201-2 nightlife 178-9 surfing time 18, 383 shopping 180-2 waterfalls tipping 381 sights 148-55 Air Terjun Gangga 284 Z Tirta Empul 187 tourist information 183 Air Terjun Gitgit 247 zoos & wildlife reserves Tirta Gangga 218-20 tours 159-60 Air Terjun Jukut 289 Bali Bird Park 191-2 toilets 384 transport to/from 183 Air Terjun Sindang Bali Safari & Marine Park 196 tourist information 384 transport within 183 Gila 284 Proyek Penyu 254 tours 39-40, 392, see also travel seasons 147 Air Terjun Singsing 253 walking tours, individual walking tours 161, 163, Air Terjun Tiu Kelep 284 Sacred Monkey Forest locations 161, 163 Air Terjun Tiu Pupas 284 Sanctuary 154, 166 touts 382 Ubud Writers & Readers Air Terjun Yeh Mampeh Turtle Sanctuary 310 Festival 24, 162

Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 413 NOTES 414 EMMA NEUVONEN

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Map Legend

Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Gate Walking Tour detour Sikh Hut/Shelter Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lighthouse Winery/Vineyard Lookout Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Mountain/Volcano International Other Sight Oasis State/Province Park Disputed Activities, Pass Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Picnic Area Marine Park Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff Diving Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Population Course/Tour Capital (National) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (State/Province) River, Creek Skiing City/Large Town Intermittent River Snorkelling Town/Village Canal Surfing Water Swimming/Pool Transport Walking Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing Border crossing Reef Other Activity Bus Cable car/Funicular Areas Sleeping Cycling Airport/Runway Sleeping Ferry Camping Metro/MRT/MTR station Beach/Desert Monorail Cemetery (Christian) Eating Parking Eating Petrol station Cemetery (Other) Skytrain/Subway station Glacier Drinking & Nightlife Taxi Drinking & Nightlife Train station/Railway Mudflat Cafe Tram Park/Forest Underground station Entertainment Other Transport Sight (Building) Entertainment Sportsground Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above Swamp/Mangrove Shopping appear on the maps in this book ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

AOUR beat-up old STORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Kate Morgan Having worked for Lonely Planet for over a decade now, Kate has been fortunate enough to cover plenty of ground working as a travel writer on destinations such as Shanghai, Japan, India, Zimbabwe, the Philippines and Phuket. She has done stints living in London, Paris and Osaka but these days is based in one of her favourite regions in the world – Victoria, Australia. In between travelling the world and writing about it, Kate enjoys spending time at home working as a freelance editor.

Ryan Ver Berkmoes Ryan has written more than 110 guidebooks for Lonely Planet. He grew up in Santa Cruz, California, which he left at age 17 for college in the Midwest, where he first discovered snow. All joy in this novelty soon wore off. Since then he has been travelling the world, both for pleasure and for work — which are often indis- tinguishable. He has covered everything from wars to bars. He definitely prefers the latter. Ryan calls New York City home. Read more at ryanverberkmoes.com and at @ryanvb.

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