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Indonesia 12

Indonesia 12

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Indonesia

Sumatra p509 p606 p659 p420 p464 p58 Nusa Tenggara p320 p212

David Eimer, Paul Harding, Ashley Harrell, Trent Holden, Mark Johanson, MaSovaida Morgan, Jenny Walker, Ray Bartlett, Loren Bell, Jade Bremner, Stuart Butler, Sofia Levin, Virginia Maxwell PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD

Welcome to . . . . 6 JAVA...... 58 ...... 184 Indonesia Map ...... 8 ...... 62 Around Malang...... 189 Purwodadi...... 190 Indonesia’s Top 20. . . . . 10 Thousand Islands. . . . . 85 ...... 86 Gunung -Lalijiwo Need to Know...... 20 Reserve ...... 190 ...... 86 Gunung Penanggungan. . . 191 First Time Indonesia. . . 22 Merak...... 88 Batu...... 191 What’s New...... 24 Carita...... 88 South-Coast Beaches. . . 192 Labuan...... 89 If You Like ...... 25 Blitar...... 193 Ujung Kulon Month by Month...... 27 National Park ...... 89 Panataran ...... 193 Pacitan...... 194 Itineraries ...... 30 Bogor...... 91 Around Bogor...... 95 Watu Karang...... 195 Outdoor Adventures. . . 36 Cimaja ...... 96 ...... 195 Travel with Children. . . . 52 Cibodas...... 97 Gunung Bromo & Bromo-Tengger- Regions at a Glance. . . . 55 Gede Pangrango National Park ...... 197 National Park ...... 97 Bondowoso...... 201 Cianjur...... 98 Plateau...... 201 ...... 99 VANYBRANDS/SHUTTERSTOCK © Kalibaru...... 204 North of Bandung . . . . . 105 Jember...... 205 Ciwidey & Around ...... 105 Meru Betiri Bandung to National Park ...... 205 ...... 107 Alas Purwo Pangandaran...... 108 National Park ...... 206 Around Pangandaran. . . . 113 ...... 209 ...... 115 . . . 210 Wonosobo...... 117 Dieng Plateau...... 118 BALI...... 212 ...... 120 BARONG DANCE (P275), & Southwest BALI ...... 124 Beaches...... 222 South Coast ...... 142 Kuta & Legian...... 222 Kaliurang & Kaliadem. . . 144 ...... 231 AKTURER/SHUTTERSTOCK © Selo...... 146 Kerobokan...... 237 ...... 147 Canggu Region. . . . . 239 Solo...... 150 Canggu...... 239 Gunung Lawu...... 157 South Bali Tawangmangu...... 159 & the Islands...... 243 North Coast...... 159 Bukit Peninsula ...... 244 ...... 174 Sanur...... 251 ...... 174 ...... 254 ...... 181 & Islands...... 257 GUNUNG BROMO (P197), Pulau Madura...... 182 JAVA Contents

Ubud Region...... 263 Sire...... 331 Around Soe...... 405 ...... 263 Northwest Coast . . . . . 331 Kefamenanu...... 406 South of Ubud ...... 278 Senaru...... 332 Around Kefamenanu. . . . 407 North of Ubud...... 280 Sembalun Valley...... 334 Rote ...... 407 East Bali...... 280 Tetebatu...... 334 Nemberala...... 408 Bangli...... 282 Praya ...... 335 Around Nemberala. . . . . 409 Klungkung Kuta ...... 335 Sumba ...... 409 (Semarapura)...... 282 East of Kuta ...... 339 Waingapu...... 411 Sidemen...... 282 West of Kuta...... 340 East Sumba...... 413 Gunung Agung...... 283 East ...... 341 South Central Sumba. . . 414 Coast Road ...... 342 West Sumba...... 414 to Kusamba...... 285 Gili Trawangan...... 344 Padangbai...... 285 Gili Meno...... 352 Candidasa...... 288 MALUKU...... 420 Gili Air...... 356 Amlapura...... 290 ...... 422 ...... 360 ...... 290 Pulau ...... 423 West Sumbawa...... 360 Amed & the Pulau Tidore...... 430 Far East Coast...... 294 East Sumbawa...... 365 Pulau . . . . . 431 Tulamben...... 296 & Pulau Ambon...... 436 Islands...... 369 Central Mountains. . . . 297 Kota Ambon ...... 437 Komodo...... 369 Danau Bratan Area. . . . . 298 Southern Leitimur. . . . . 442 Rinca ...... 372 Gunung Batukau Area. . . . 302 Eastern Leihitu...... 442 ...... 372 Gunung Batur Area. . . . . 303 Northern & ...... 373 North Bali ...... 306 Western Leihitu ...... 443 Manggarai Country. . . . . 382 Lovina...... 306 Lease Islands ...... 444 Bajawa...... 383 Pemuteran...... 310 Pulau ...... 444 Around Bajawa...... 385 Singaraja...... 312 Pulau Seram...... 446 Riung ...... 386 Taman Nasional , Namano Bali Barat...... 313 Ende...... 387 & ...... 446 West Bali...... 314 ...... 389 Northern Seram...... 447 Pura ...... 314 Moni...... 390 Banda Islands...... 447 Balian Beach...... 316 Paga...... 391 Bandaneira ...... 450 Jembrana Coast...... 317 Maumere...... 392 Pulau Gunung Api . . . . . 454 Waiara ...... 393 Pulau Banda Besar . . . . . 454 NUSA TENGGARA. . . . 320 Wodong...... 394 Pulau Hatta...... 455 Alor Archipelago. . . .. 394 Pulau Ai...... 456 Lombok ...... 322 Kalabahi...... 394 Pulau Run ...... 456 Mataram ...... 323 Around Kalabahi...... 396 Kei Islands...... 457 Lembar...... 325 West Timor ...... 398 Tual & Langgur...... 457 Southwestern Peninsula...... 325 Kupang...... 399 Pulau Kei Kecil...... 460 Senggigi...... 327 Around Kupang. . . . . 403 Pulau Kei Besar ...... 463 Soe...... 404 ON THE ROAD

PAPUA ...... 464 ...... 470 EDMUND LOWE PHOTOGRAPHY/SHUTTERSTOCK © ...... 471 . . . . 472 ...... 480 Around Manokwari. . . . . 483 Northern Papua . . . . . 484 ...... 484 Sentani...... 488 Around Sentani ...... 489

Pulau ...... 490 COOKING COURSE (P769), Nabire...... 494 BALI ...... 495 ...... 496 Teluk Dalam...... 539 ...... 597 Northeastern Baliem Valley...... 500 Aceh...... 539 Tanjung Setia & Krui. . . . 599 Northwestern Banda Aceh...... 541 ...... 600 Baliem Valley...... 501 Pulau Weh...... 545 Way Kambas Yali Country...... 502 Aceh’s West Coast. . . . . 549 National Park ...... 602 Gunung Krakatau...... 604 Southern Papua. . . . . 504 Banyak Islands...... 551 Merauke...... 504 Gunung Leuser Bukit Barisan Selatan National Park ...... 605 . . . . 506 National Park ...... 554 Asmat Region...... 507 West ...... 557 KALIMANTAN. . . . . 606 Korowai ...... 508 ...... 558 Pantai Bungus West Kalimantan . . . . 610 & Sungai Pinang...... 562 Pontianak...... 610 SUMATRA ...... 509 Mentawai Islands...... 563 Singkawang...... 616 . . . . . 513 ...... 570 Sintang...... 617 Medan ...... 513 South of Bukittinggi . . . . 574 Putussibau ...... 618 Bukit Lawang ...... 519 Danau Maninjau...... 575 Sukadana...... 620 Tangkahan...... 522 Kerinci Valley ...... 578 Gunung Palung Berastagi & Around. . . . . 523 Bengkulu...... 583 National Park ...... 622 Parapat...... 527 ...... 586 . . . 622 Danau Toba...... 527 Pekanbaru...... 586 Sibolga...... 533 Dumai...... 587 National Park ...... 622 Pulau ...... 534 Pulau Batam...... 588 ...... 625 Gunung Sitoli ...... 535 Pulau Bintan...... 589 ...... 627 Traditional Villages. . . . . 536 ...... 592 Palangka Raya ...... 628 Pantai Sorake . . . . . 595 Sebangau & Teluk Lagundri ...... 539 National Park ...... 631 Palembang ...... 596 Contents

UNDERSTAND

South Kalimantan . . . . 632 Mamasa Valley ...... 688 Indonesia Today. . . . . 722 Banjarmasin...... 632 Mamasa...... 689 History...... 725 Kandangan ...... 635 ...... 690 Culture...... 744 Loksado...... 636 Tentena ...... 690 East & North Poso...... 692 Arts & Crafts...... 753 Kalimantan ...... 637 Lore Lindu Food & Drink...... 762 ...... 638 National Park ...... 692 Environment...... 773 ...... 642 Palu...... 694 Sungai Mahakam...... 645 Donggala & Muller Mountains. . . . . 651 Tanjung Karang. . . . . 695 . . . . 651 Luwuk...... 696 SURVIVAL Berau...... 651 Ampana...... 696 GUIDE Merabu...... 653 Togean Islands...... 697 Derawan Archipelago. . . . 654 North Sulawesi. . . . . 702 Directory A–Z...... 782 Gorontalo...... 702 North Kalimantan ...... 658 Transport...... 793 Manado ...... 704 Health...... 800 SULAWESI...... 659 Pulau Bunaken & Pulau Siladen...... 707 Language...... 805 ...... 662 Tomohon...... 711 Index...... 816 Makassar...... 662 Bitung...... 713 Malino ...... 668 Pulau Lembeh & Map Legend...... 829 Pantai Bira...... 669 the Lembeh Strait. . . . . 714 Pulau Liukang Loe. . . . . 672 Tangkoko-Batuangas Pulau Selayar...... 673 Dua Saudara ...... 714 Taka Bonerate Islands. . .. 673 Southeast Sulawesi. . . 715 Watampone...... 673 Kolaka ...... 715 Sengkang...... 674 Kendari...... 716 Pare Pare...... 675 Bau Bau...... 717 Tana Toraja ...... 675 Wakatobi Islands. . . . . 718

SPECIAL FEATURES Itineraries...... 30 Outdoor Adventures . . . 36 Travel with Children. . . . 52 Culture...... 744 Arts & Crafts...... 753 Food & Drink...... 762 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 30

Itineraries

B a l i S e a

Munduk •# Gili É Islands

•# É BALI É

É LOMBOK Ubud •# É f# É •#Mataram

É

É É •#

Seminyak É

É •# Bukit •# Peninsula Kuta

I N D I A N O C E A N

2 WEEKS Beaches, Bars, Bodies & Bliss

Mix the offbeat with the sublime in Indonesia’s heart of tourism. Start in Bali, acclimatising in the resorts, clubs and shops of Seminyak. Dose up on sun at the beach, then explore the perfect little beaches and surf breaks of the Bukit Peninsula. Head north to immerse yourself in the ‘other’ Bali – the culture, and rich his- tory of Ubud. Take a cooking course, unwind at a spa, wander the rice paddies and see Bali’s famous traditional dance. Then escape to the misty mountains for treks to water- falls amid coffee plantations in and around Munduk. Next is Lombok. Take the ferry from Bali’s port town of Padangbai to Lombok’s launching pad of Lembar. Head to Kuta for mellow vibes amid the wonderful beaches of south Lombok. Then potter through the rice fields and Hindu temples around Mataram. Ferry from Bangsal to the deservedly celebrated Gili Islands, where seamless beach- es, translucent water and vivid reefs beg for snorkelling. Or if time’s short, catch a fast boat directly to the Gilis from Bali. 31

tHaIan

Pulau Weh •# Gunung Leuser National Park TRIP YOUR PLAN

É É ÷# Bukit Lawang •# aasIa •#Medan •# JAVA S E A Berastagi Banyak •# Islands É JAKARTA Bromo-Tengger- Prambanan Semeru sInaOre #_ National Harau Valley É Borobudur ‚ Park •# •# •# Solo •# É •# É Bukittinggi Danau It •# •# •# Batu Karas •# •# •# Maninjau Yogyakarta #÷ i nerar

Malang Kawah É Pangandaran Ijen Kerinci Valley Mentawai •# •# Islands É i es

I N D I A N ÷# O C E A N

3 6 WEEKS The Java Jaunt WEEKS Sumatra

Indonesia’s most populous island mixes Sumatra is big and you’ll have to hustle to the nation’s future and past with natural fully appreciate its myriad natural charms beauty. within visa constraints. Begin in Jakarta and wrap your senses Start your explorations in Medan, then around the dizzying smells, sounds, sights head out of town to Bukit Lawang to see and people of Indonesia’s teeming capital. the island’s famous residents, the orang- Linger long enough to binge on Bintang utans. It’s a short jaunt from here to Berast- beer and splurge in the city’s shops, then agi, a laid-back hill town amid volcanoes. head to for classic laid-back Batu Karas Head northwest to Ketambe for truly beach vibes or go for the resorts of nearby wild orang-uatan encounters in Gunung Pangandaran. Leuser National Park. Then take a bus After you’ve worshipped the sun for a to Banda Aceh, from where it’s a short boat week or so, catch the train to Yogyakarta, ride to world-class diving at Pulau Weh. Java’s cultural capital. Dabble in , am- Take a bus along the coast south (or fly) ble through the (walled city ) and venture off the west coast to the Ban- and part with your rupiah at the vibrant yak Islands, a surfing and beach paradise. markets. A day trip to majestic Borobu- Back ashore, follow the Trans-­Sumatran dur is a must. Hwy south to Bukittinggi, a good base for exploring the cultures and beauty of the From Yogyakarta, journey to the Harau Valley and Danau Maninjau. laid-back city of Solo, via the enigmatic temples of Prambanan. From there, visit More surf, sand and underwater joy Malang and its cluster of nearby Hindu await at the Mentawai Islands. Next, temples. Then head into the clouds at awe- head inland to the volcanic Kerinci Val- some Bromo-Tengger-Semeru National ley and Kerinci Seblat National Park for Park, spending a night on the lip of Teng- remote jungle villages. Finally, head far ger crater. Finally, hike to the magnificent south to Way Kambas National Park, turquoise sulphur lake of Kawah Ijen on where the highlights include elephants. the Ijen Plateau From here, it’s easy to catch the Java ferry. 32 PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN

aja Ampat

Islands Pulau

Biak •# É

Komodo •# Sorong •# National Park É tIOr Lombok •# este Jayapura É ÉÉ #÷ •# Flores É

•# É •# •# ‚

Sumbawa West É •# Nabire •# Baliem

Timor Valley•#

It Sumba É •# É É Danau

i nerar É Sentani •# ote i es

6 4 WEEKS Nusa Tenggara WEEKS The Great East

Lombok is well-known to visitors and Flores Papua is the launching pad for this route is also popular, but the island province of through some of Indonesia’s most exotic Nusa Tenggara holds many more surprises. and beautiful territory. You can do it in 30 days with judicious use of flights; other- Head east from . Admire the Lombok wise take your time for the full land and beautiful coastline and surf breaks such sea adventure. as Maluk and Pantai Lakey that dot Sum- bawa. Catch the ferry to Flores, where Start at the transport hub of Jayapura. Labuan Bajo is the fast-growing hub for ex- But you’ll only be there long enough to ploring nearby . charter a boat to visit the magnificent Da- Enjoy dragons and small, beautiful island nau Sentani, a 96.5-sq-km lake with 19 beaches. islands perfect for inland island-hopping. Flores is a rugged volcanic island with Back on dry land, take to the air to get thriving ancient cultures and dramatic to the beautiful Baliem Valley, rich in terrain, which is increasingly explored via culture and hike-worthy mountain scenery, the fast-improving Trans-Flores Hwy. Visit jumping-off point for treks into the little- Bajawa to explore volcanoes and villages, explored Yali Country, and home to the then use mountainside Moni as a base for , an ethnic group whose mem- visiting the vivid waters at Kelimutu. Sa- bers have eschewed most modern things vour the lovely beaches near Paga. and live a traditional life. Enjoy mountain views from a thatched hut. Now take a ferry south to isolated and timeless Sumba, where superb beaches Fly to Nabire via Jayapura and spot such as Waikabubak and Tambolaka are whale sharks off the coast – you can even starting to attract visitors. After indulg- swim with them. Then fly up for some ing in sun and isolation, fly to Kupang in idle island time on Pulau Biak. Next it’s a West Timor. Visit entrancing ancient vil- flight to Sorong, a base for trips out to the lages like None, Boti and Temkessi in the Raja Ampat Islands – a paradise for di- surrounding areas to the east, then jump vers and snorkellers, with Indonesia’s most over to Rote for relaxed beach vibes. abundant and varied marine life. 33

HIIInes

Pulau

Bunaken Manado TRIP YOUR PLAN #

Togean •#•# – Islands É Pulau É •# •# Ternate Lore Gorontalo •# É

Lindu •# Pulau

•# Ampana Derawan # – aasIa •# •#Tentena É •# Tana Toraja É Kota Ambon •# É Sungai

É

•# Mahakam It É •# Banda •#

•# i nerar Makassar Islands f# É •# Loksado É Samarinda Kei •# Islands Pangkalan

Bun •# É É i es tIOr #÷ •# este Tanjung Puting Banjarmasin National Park

8 Indonesia’s 6 Postcards WEEKS Island Core WEEKS Come to Life

Explore two of Indonesia’s greatest con- Mysterious rivers of unfathomable length centrations of islands in these little-visited that wind through the jungle are the av- regions. enues via which travellers can discover Kalimantan’s incredible diversity of life, In pause amid the pandemo- Makassar including orang-utans. nium for excellent seafood. But don’t overdo it, as you want to be fully alive for the elabo- Unassuming Pangkalan Bun is the en- rate funeral ceremonies in Tana Toraja, try point to this excursion – it’s the launch- a nine-hour bus trip from Makassar. From ing pad for trips into glorious Tanjung here, another long bus ride takes you to Puting National Park, one of the prime the mountain-lake town of Tentena, from places for spotting orang-utans. Scan the where you can access the ancient megalithic canopy for their amber bodies from the up- statues of Lore Lindu. A four-hour shared- per deck of a klotok (houseboat) as it drifts car journey whisks you to Ampana, where down the beautiful Sungai Sekonyer. you take a ferry to the amazing, beguiling From Pangkalan Bun, fly or take the over- for days of island-hopping Togean Islands night bus to colourful . Make between iconic beaches. Banjarmasin sure to visit its animated floating markets, Tearing yourself away, boat to Goron- one of the most photogenic sights in Kalim- talo, then board a bus or plane to Manado antan. Detour for some hiking and bamboo and take a boat to laid-back Pulau Bu- rafting in the remote hills around Loksado. naken. Fly from Manado to Pulau Ter- From Banjarmasin, travel overland to Sa- nate, which is as pretty a tropical island marinda and make an expedition along paradise as you’ll find. From there, fly onto Sungai Mahakam. Several days upstream Kota Ambon on Maluku’s Pulau Ambon. will land you in the river’s western reaches, Pause only briefly, then take the fast ferry which are peppered with semi-traditional to the crystalline seas, multicoloured reefs Dayak villages and preserved forests. Travel and empty beaches of the Banda Islands. back to the coast and head north to primi- Finally make the jaunt by boat southeast to tive, teardrop-shaped Pulau Derawan and the Kei Islands, for perfect beaches. its offshore underwater wonders. 34 the Beaten Track

LAOS CHINA

PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN ot na a BANGKOK at a #_ INDIA PHNOM PENH #_ Ho Chi •# Minh City OFF T H E CNI TKS s B r

B

EATEN Kota Kinabalu •# •# Bukit BANDAR SERI

TRA #_ Lawang BEGAWAN •# KUALA

CK #_ lk LUMPUR al Kuching MALAYSIA #_ •#

CNI •# TKS •# Pontianak Samarinda •# •# Padang •# •# Pangkal Balikpapan Jambi •# Palangka•# Pinang Raya •#Banjarmasin Bandar Lampung •# GNNG JNG KLN •# •# EBB Surabaya NTIN L PK •# •# Bandung •#Solo •# () LP Yogyakarta #• JNG KLN NTINL Denpasar •# #• STWEST PK GILIS

LP GNNG EBB a

STWEST GILIS I other 35

km e# miles

BGNI NNI WTB PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN NE NTINL PK t #_ MANILA OFF T H E

PL LE t B

H EATEN

I TRA la a CK Kota Ternate •# •# PL LE Gorontalo •# •# BGNI NNI Manokwari •# Palu WTBNE •# Sorong •# NTINL PK •# Kota Biak Jayapura Makale •# •# •# Fak-fak Kota •# Ambon Wamena Timika •# •# •# Makassar PL TNIB •# PAPUA KEI KWI •# #_DILI

•# Kupang

PL TNIB KEI t 44KWI F 44 44 44 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 813

Behind the Scenes

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OUR READERS AUTHOR THANKS Many thanks to the travellers who used David Eimer the last edition and wrote to us with help- Special gratitude for their help to Aty in Terna- ful hints, useful advice and interesting te, Ere in Ambon, Alan in Bandaneira and Vicky anecdotes: in Kei Kecil. Thanks to Tanya Parker and the LP A Alex Ward, Alexandra Wald, Anita Mulders, crew in London. As ever, thanks to everyone Anne Robson, Anouk Lubbe, Anthony van den who passed on tips along the way, whether

Langenbergh B Brad Plogsted C Carlos knowingly or unwittingly.

Fernandez, Colin Whitefield D Dan Conroy, Dani Daley, David Greilach, David Hudak, Paul Harding

David Mendes Barata E Ed Allan, Erica A big thanks to the many gracious and helpful

Wijarnako F Fernando Raynaldi Kale, Floor I encountered on the road in - van Wingerden, Florence Soudy, Freddy mantan, including Denny in Pontianak, Agung,

Klingbeil G Gaia Pinotti, Gary Chow, Glen Kipli and Arly in Sintang, Bona Ventura, Liesa, Clark J Javier Castro Guinea, Jenine Allaart, Majid and the crew at Kumai, Tailah, Yayat and

Jeroen Willemsen, Jesper Buijs K Katharina Wenny, Meiling in Balikpapan, Budiyono and

Davies, Keith Koenigsberg, Kerry Blunsum Danielle. Most of all, thanks to Hannah and

L Lianca Ruiter, Lynn Lawrance M Manuela Layla for the regular phone calls and enduring Arigoni, Marie Kirchner, Marine Yzquierdo, patience. Mark Tewari, Marlon Goos , Marten Buijs, Matt Lyne, Matthieu Kamerman, Mel Farrell, Mi- Ashley Harrell chael Montague N Natalie Bogner, Nia Haf, Thanks to editor Tanya Parker and my co- ­

Nick Tunley P Patricia Lustig, Paulo Leite authors for their excellency, Katharine Krzyzan- R Rachel de Jong, Rolf Rabe, Rudolph Lei- owski for hanging out, the Italians (Gianluca jtens S Sean Lavery, Stefano Longoni, Stella Affitti, Elena Rebeggiani, Maurizio Benedettini Meerman, Stephen Wilson, Steven Hannink, and Roberta Simoni) for admiring my reckless- Steven Haurissa, Stien Van den Heuvel, Sven ness and feeding me cheese, Antoni Sitepu for Bohnert, Sybrand Mostert, Syenne Ribka invaluable assistance and endless amusement, T Tjip Huysmans, Tom Roes V Virginie the for their hospitality, Jon More W Wessel van Son Clutton and Liz Morgan for their buoyancy tips, and Alex Harrell and Sarah Tosques for flying 814 across the world to keep me company at 25m sense of welcome has remained constant. below sea level. I still can’t believe you came. A general thanks, then, to all who helped contribute to the information in the Central Trent Holden Java section of this country update. Specific First up huge thanks to Tanya Parker at thanks to Mr Dwi Cahyono of Akgkasa Trans Lonely Planet for giving me this awesome gig for his wonderful dependability and gentle to work on Sumatra. So good to be back! A companionship. Biggest thanks are reserved BEHIND THE SCENES THE BEHIND big shout out to Gustri Tri Putra for all your as ever to beloved Sam (Owen) – husband, hard work in helping me get around this co-researcher and fellow traveller. beast of an island and the laughs and good tunes along the way. I’d also like to thank the Ray Bartlett following people for their assistance: Ling, Thanks first and foremost to Tanya, for the Josh, Luke, Zacky, Brigitte, Mr Moon, Nella, chance to work on this, and to each of the Andrea, Timmy, Joseph, Ahmad, Linda, Mery editors who will peek at it afterwards. Thanks and Abdy. Finally love to all of my family and as well to my family, friends, and to my in- my beautiful fiancé Kate. credible Indonesian contacts. In particular, huge thanks to Ms Tijo, the ‘Buah Naga’, to Mark Johanson Sarah H, to Edy and to the rest of my Indo- Thanks to all the people on Lombok and nesian pals. Last, I want to send particular Sumbawa who steered me in the right wishes to the people in Donggala, Palu and direction and helped me to navigate the other regions so affected by the earthquake post-earthquake islands, even when their and . Words can’t express my sorrow personal lives were in shambles. I owe a for your losses, and my admiration for your debt of gratitude to Rudy Trekker, Gemma strength and recovery. Marjaya, Kelly Goldie and Andy Wheatcroft for being fountains of knowledge along the Loren Bell way. A special thanks to my partner Felipe The biggest thank you to Kari: for putting up Bascuñán for tolerating my long absences with my long absences during these projects and to my editor Niamh O’Brien for tirelessly – both physical and mental – and for giving ensuring I was OK! me a brief reprieve from dish duties as dead- lines approached. Your love and support (and MaSovaida Morgan regular pupdates) are critical and felt even Deepest thanks to the wonderful souls who half way around the planet. provided assistance, insight and companion­ ship throughout my time on Bali: Rob, Mar- Jade Bremner gie, Max, Kristy and the Outsite crew; Gigi Thanks to Destination Editor Tanya Parker and Annette; Ty and Jeff; and especially to my for her support, knowledge and quick-fire dear brother Bayu for an efficient and unfor- responses on Jakarta. Plus, the wider Indo- gettable journey. nesia team and everyone working behind the scenes on this project – Cheree Broughton, Jenny Walker Neill Coen, Evan Godt and Helen Elfer. Last I first visited Indonesia 35 years ago and in a but not least, thanks to the friendly Jakarta country where everything has changed, the locals, who always remain calm, polite and

Iain Stewart and Ryan Ver Dankel, Samantha Forge, Carly THIS BOOK Berkmoes. This guidebook was Hall, Kate James, Lou McGre- This 12th edition of Lonely produced by the following: gor, Rosie Nicholson, Sarah Planet’s Indonesia guidebook Destination Editors Tanya Reid, Simon Williamson was curated by David Eimer, Parker, Niamh O’Brien Assisting Cartographers Paul Harding, Ashley Harrell, Senior Product Editor Hunor Csutoros, Julie Dodkins Trent Holden, Mark Johanson, Kate Chapman Assisting Book Designers MaSovaida Morgan and Jenny Product Editor Clara Monitto Walker, who also researched Kathryn Rowan Cover Researcher and wrote it along with Ray Wibowo Rusli Bartlett, Loren Bell, Jade Regional Senior Carto- Julie Sheridan Jennifer Carey, Bremner, Stuart Butler, Sofia grapher Thanks to Martin Heng, Evan Godt, Levin and Virginia Maxwell. Book Designer Elizabeth Jones, Lauren Keith, The previous edition was Mazzy Prinsep Catherine Naghten, Claire researched and written by Assisting Editors Andrew Naylor, Karyn Noble, Matt Phil- Loren Bell, Stuart Butler, Trent Bain, James Bainbridge, lips, Rachel Rawling, Eleanor Holden, Anna Kaminski, Hugh Michelle Bennett, Heather Simpson, Colin Trainer, James McNaughtan, Adam Skolnick, Champion, Nigel Chin, Lucy Cowie, Kate Daly, Melanie Smart 815 BEHIND THE SCENES - - Hydrology and Earth System System and Earth Hydrology , 11, 1633–44. 11, , Classification’, Classification’, Sciences Sumatra, Toba, Danau photograph: Cover ©. Daeli/Shutterstock Fredi me with curiosity, appetite and the travel bug travel the and appetite with curiosity, me born. was moment I the from Virginia Maxwell Bali the for Berkmoes Ver Ryan to Thanks driving the expert for Hanafi briefing, mon for and Niamh O’Brien and navigation, My support team situation. the safety itoring calm stayed Max Handsaker and Peter of and reports the earthquake saw when they I check up on me. to calls Skype made regular without them. writer as a travel work couldn’t ACKNOWLEDGMENTS MC, Peel from adapted map data Climate ‘Updat (2007) TA & McMahon BL Finlayson Climate the Köppen-Geiger Map of World ed - support and encouragement, both when I’m both support and encouragement, parents my And to side. your and by away instilling for thank you fans), biggest my (aka Erwin, Willy and Andy – thank you for your your for Andy – thank you and Willy Erwin, your all, of but most on the road, guidance this job Matt, husband, my To friendship. constant your without impossible be would Indonesians who helped out. In LP land thank In LP who helped out. Indonesians on this work to the chance for Tanya to you project. Levin Sofia this project (and for graciously accepting accepting graciously for (and this project holiday). a week’s take only being able to my and Supardi Dadang to thank you Java In hotel the many all to as as well Adi Suwarna wonderful other and owners and restaurant Stuart Butler Stuart wife, my thank are must people I The first for and Grace, Jake children, and Heather, on while I worked patience their unending helpful despite the endlessly chaotic sur chaotic endlessly the despite helpful city. the of roundings ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 816

Index

A Amlapura 290 crafts 278 Banda Islands 13, 447-57, accessible travel 139, 782 Ampana 696-7 culture 216-19 449, 13, 42 accommodation 782-4, see amusement parks dance 12, 218-19, 275, Bandaneira 450-4, 451 also individual locations DMZ: Dream Museum 2, 292 accommodation 452-3 Aceh 539-56, 739, 540 Zone 161 east Bali 280-97, 281 activities 452 west coast 549-51 Taman Festival Bali 251 food 212 food 453 activities 36-51, see Taman Mini Indonesia highlights 214-15, 214-15 information 453 also individual activities Indah 71 history 213, 216 shopping 453 Agats 507-8 Waterbom Park 224 internet resources 219 sights 450-2 Agung Rai Museum of animals 25, 468-9, 582, 774- itineraries 30 travel to/from 453, 454 Art 263 6, see also individual north Bali 306-14, 307 travel within 454 Air Terjun Oehala 405 species archaeological sites religion 216-17 Bandar Lampung 600-2, Air Terjun Tanggedu 412 601 693 south Bali 243-63, 223 air travel 793, 794-5 Bandung 99-105, , Beteng Somba Opu 663 southwest beaches 100 106 airlines 793, 794-5 222-39 accommodation 101-2 airports 793 Borobudur 19, 120-4, 318, 19, 318 tourist information 219 activities 101 El Tari Airport 403 Candi 586 tours 221 drinking & nightlife 103-4 Husein Sastranegara travel to/from 219-20 entertainment 104 Airport 104 Kraton Ratu Boko 149 travel within 220-2 food 102-3 Kualanamu International Muara Jambi 592-4 west Bali 314-17, shopping 104 Airport 518 Situs Megalitik Tutari 490 315 Balian Beach 316-17 sights 99-101 Lombok International Tinggi Hari 598 Airport 335 architecture 754-6 balian 277 tours 101 Ngurah Rai International area codes 21 Baliem Valley 17, 495-503, travel to/from 104-5 Airport 21, 219, 793 art galleries, see museums 496 travel within 105 Soekarno-Hatta Inter- & galleries Baliem Valley Festival 497 Bandung region 105 national Airport 21, arts 753-6, see Balikpapan 638-42, 639 Bangka Islands 710 83, 793 also crafts, individual accommodation 638-9 Bangli 282 Sultan Iskandar Muda arts drinking & nightlife 641 Banjarmasin 632-5, 633 International Airport Balinese 217-18, 278 food 639-41 Banten 86 544 Asmat region 507-8 information 641 Banyak Islands 551-4, 552 Surabaya Juanda Interna- ASRI 621 tional Airport 180 shopping 641 Banyu Wana Amertha ATMs 786 Yogyakarta Adisucipto sights 638 Waterfalls 300 International Airport tours 638 Banyuwangi 209-10 140 B travel to/from 641-2 bargaining 23 Bade 506 travel within 642 Barong dance 275, 293, 206-8 Bajau (people) 702 Balinese healers, see balian 2, 292 alcohol 770 Bajawa 383-5 Balinese names 218 people 530 poisoning 788 Bajawa region 385-6 balok 683 Batak puppet dance 532 Alor Archipelago 394-8 Bajra Sandhi Monument 254 Baluran National Park 210-11 bathrooms 790 Amahai 446 Balekambang 192 Banda Aceh 541-5, 542 batik 140, 156, 760 Ambarawa 166-7 Bali 55, 212-315, 214-15, drinking 543-4 Batu 191-2 Amed 294-6 292-3 food 543-4 Batu Beribu 598 accommodation 212 information 544 Batu Bolong Beach 240 arts 217-18 sights 541 Batu Gajah 598 Map Pages 000 children, travel with 225 travel to/from 544-5 Batu Karas 114-15 Photo Pages 000 climate 212 travel within 545 Batubulan 279-80 817 Batutumonga 683-4 beliefs, see religion Papua New Guina 488 travel to/from 243 Bau Bau 717-18 Belimbing 575 Timor-Leste 404 travel within 243 Bau Nyale 337 Belongas 341 Borobudur 19, 120-4, 318, Canggu region 239-43 Baun 403-4 Bena 385-6 19, 318 canyoning 50-1, 379 Bawomataluo 537-8 Bengkulu 583-6 accommodation 123 Captain Courthope 457 beaches 25, 37-8, 286, 418 Benteng Belgica 450 festivals & events 122-3 car travel 797-8

Alas Purwo National Berakit 591 food 123-4 Carita 88-9 INDEX Park 207 Berastagi 523-7, 524 information 124 cathedrals, see churches & Balian Beach 316-17 Berau 651-3, 652 planning 121 cathedrals -Balikpapan 638 betang 619 sights 121-2 caves  B Baluran National Park Betung Kerihun National tours 122 Goa Gajah 278  C 210 Park 618 travel to/from 124 Goa Hawang Caves 463 Bau Bau 717 bicycle travel, see cycling travel within 124 Goa Jepang 493 Belongas 341 367-8 Borobudur region 124 Goa Kasah 581-2 Bengkulu 584 Bingin 245-6 Borobudur 12, 121- Goa Kotilola 501 Bosnik 493 bird flu 803 2, 19, 318 Gua Istana 207 Candidasa 289 birds 775 Bosnik 493 Gua Jepang 570 Canggu 240, 242 birds of paradise 775 Botohili 538 Gua Kotilola 501 Bumbangku 340 birdwatching Bromo-Tengger-Semeru Gua Leang Leang 662 Grajagan Beach 207 Aketajawe-Lolobata National Park 197-201 Gua Padepokan 207 Indrayanti 143 National Park 436 751-2 Gua Wikuda 500 Jayapura 485-6 budget 21 Liang Bua 382 Jepara 168, 169 446 Bugis, the 674 caving 379 244 Minahasa region 712 Bukit Barisan Selatan celebrations 766-7 National Park 605 Kalabahi 395 Pegunungan Arfak 483-4 cell phones 20, 789 Bukit Daub 584 Kalabahi region 397 Raja Ampat Islands 475 cemeteries, see also Karimunjawa 170 Tangkoko-Batuangas Bukit Kaba 584 graves, tombs Kukup 144 Dua Saudara Nature Bukit Lawang 519-22 Asta Tinggi Cemetery Reserve 715 Kupang 399 Bukit Peninsula 244-51, 38 183 Ubud 267 Kuta (Bali) 222 Bukittinggi 570-4, 571, 575 British Cemetery 584 Way Kambas National Kuta (Lombok) 336 accommodation 573 Commonwealth War Park 603 Legian 222 drinking 573-4 Cemetery 437 bites & stings 803 Manokwari 480 festivals & events 572 Jakarta War Cemetery 71 Bitung 713-14 Meru Betiri National food 573-4 Kambira Baby Graves Blitar 193-5 687-8 Park 205 information 574 blogs 724 Kherkhof 541 Nemberala region 409 shopping 574 boat travel 647, 794, 795-7 Waruga Opo Worang Nusa Lembongan 258 sights 570 safety 796 711-12 Padang Padang 246 tours 572 boat trips Cempaka Fields Paga 391. 392 travel to/from 574 Cilacap 113 632 Pangandaran 108 travel within 574 Green Canyon 113-14 Central Java 115, 116 Pangandaran region Bukittinggi region 574-5, Singkil 549 Central Kalimantan 622-32 113-15 575 central mountains Pantai Bira 669 Sungai Mahakam 645-6 bull racing 29 297-306 Pemuteran 310 Bogani Nani Wartabone Bumbangku 340 National Park 703 Central Sulawesi 690-702 Pulau Bunaken 707-8 bus travel 797 children, travel with 52-4 Pulau Halmahera 432 Bogor 91-5, 92 business hours 21 Bali 225 Pulau Kei Besar 463 accommodation 93-4 Christianity 750-1 Pulau Kei Kecil 461, 462 food 94 churches & cathedrals Pulau Ndao 409 information 95 C Candi 157 Dutch Church 450 Pulau Ternate 423-4 sights 92-3 tours 93 Candidasa 288-90, 289 Francis Xavier Cathedral Pulau Tidore 430 438 travel to/from 95 Candikuning 298-9 Sanur 251 Gereja Tua Hila 443 travel within 95 Canggu 239-44, 241 Selong Blanak 340 Graha Maria Annai Bogor region 95-6 accommodation 240-2 Seminyak 231 Velangkanni 516 Bondowoso 201-2 drinking & nightlife 242-3 Southern Leitimur 442 St Francis of Assisi food 242 Tentena 691 Boni 409 Catholic Church 523-4 information 243 Bedulu 278 books 61, 722 Cianjur 98-9 shopping 243 beehive huts 406 border crossings 793-4 Cibodas 97 sights 240 becak 21, 798 Malaysia 616, 658 Cimaja 96-7 818 Ciokoto 113 travel to/from 533 Pulau Kadidiri 699-700 F Cipanas 107 travel within 533 Pulau Kei Kecil 24 festivals & events 27-9 Ciwidey 105-7 dance 12, 753 Pulau Menjangan 311 Bali Arts Festival 254 climate 20, see also Balinese 218-19, 275 Pulau Moyo 364 Bali Spirit Festival 270 individual regions Barong 275, 293, 2, 292 Pulau Raja 447 Baliem Valley Festival climbing 379 275 Pulau Tomia 720 497 INDEX INDEX coffee 684, 770 Legong 275, 7 Pulau Weh 545 Bau Nyale 337 conservation 476, 584, Rangda 275 Raja Ampat Islands Djakarta Warehouse 621, 657 warrior 502 472-5, 41 Festival 73

C- consulates 784-5  dangers, see safety responsible diving 43 Festival Danau Sentani

G cottage industries 168 28, 488  Dani people 495-6, 500, safety 40 cooking courses 769 Galungan & Kuningan 503, 17 Sanur 251 29, 28 Bali 250, 251, 266, 291, deforestation 779-80 Sauwandarek Jetty 474 309, Gerebeg 27, 130 4 Demak 166-7 Senggigi 328 Danau Toba 529-30 Idul Fitri 29, dengue fever 801-2 Tobelo 434 28 Gili Air 358 Independence Day Denpasar 254-7, 256-7 Togean Islands 697-8 Gili Trawangan 347 Carnival 171 Derawan Archipelago Tulamben 297 Nyepi 27, 216 costs 21, 783, 785 654-7 Dokan 525 Pasola 27 crafts 278, 756-61, see Desa Takpal 396 dolphins 646, 776 also arts, individual Ramadan 749 diarrhoea 803 dolphin-watching crafts Tana Toraja Funeral Dieng Plateau 118-20 Lovina 308 credit cards 786-7 Festivals 28-9 disabilities, travellers with Tangkoko-Batuangas culture 744-52 Ubud Writers & Readers 139, 782 Dua Saudara Nature Bali 216-19 Festival 29, 270 diving 25, 39-42, see Reserve 715 films 722 Java 61-2 also snorkelling Donggala 695 Flores 372-94, Papua 468 Amed 294-5 drinks 770 374 currency 20 Bali’s islands 260 alcohol 770 food 18, 762-72, 18, 764, 765, 768, see also indi- customs regulations 784 Banda Islands 448 coffee 684, 770 vidual locations cycling 39, 795 Bandaneira 452 sopi 400 dog meat 706 Danau Toba 529 Banyak Islands 552 tea 770 glossary 771-2 Gili Trawangan 347 Belongas 341 drugs 788 Malukan cuisine 422 Jakarta 72 Derawan Archipelago 397 Padang cuisine 561 654-5 Dumai 587-8 Palembang cuisine 597 Eastern Leihitu 442-3 D seafood 245 Danau Batur 304-5 Gapang 547 E soto kudus 167 Danau Bratan region 298- Gili Air 356 earthquakes forts 301, 299 Gili Islands 346 Gili Islands 343 Benteng Amsterdam 443 Danau Buyan 299-300 Gili Meno 353-4 Gunung Rinjani 333 Benteng Belgica 450 Danau Maninjau 575-7, 576 Gili Trawangan 346-7 Sulawesi 690 Benteng Duurstede 445 Danau Sentani 489-90 Gorontalo 703 east Bali 280-97, 281 Benteng Hollandia 455 Danau Sentarum National Kalabahi 395 East Java 174-211, Benteng Kalamata 427 Park 620 Karimunjawa Islands 175 Benteng Nassau 450 Danau Tamblingan 170-1 637-58 299-300 Kuta (Lombok) 336 , see Timor-­ Benteng Oranye 427 Leste Danau Toba 527-33, 528 Labuan Bajo 374-5 Benteng Revenge 456 Eastern Leihitu 442-3 accommodation 530-1 Leihitu region 443 Benteng Tahula 431 economy 723 activites 529 Lovina 308-9 Benteng Tolukko 425 Ekas 340 courses 529-30 Maleo Moyo 364 Benteng Torre 431 electricity 784 drinking & nightlife 532 Nusa Lembongan 258 Benteng Victoria 438 elephants 523, 584 festivals & events 530 Nusa Penida 262 Benteng Vredeburg 128 embassies 784-5 food 531-2 Padaido Islands 493-4 English Fort 457 information 532-3 Padangbai 285-6 Ende 387-9, 388 Fort Marlborough 583 shopping 532 Pantai Bira 669-70, 671 environment 773-80 Fort Rotterdam 663 sights 528-9 Pasir Panjang 462 environmental issues 476, fruits 766 630, 777-80 tours 529-30 Pemuteran 310-11 etiquette 23 Pulau Ambon 436 events, see festivals & G Pulau Biak 491 events Galeri Nasional 69 Map Pages 000 Pulau Bunaken 709 exchange rates 21 galleries, see museums & Photo Pages 000 Pulau Hatta 455 galleries 819 Gapang 547-8 Gunung Batur 305-6 Ketambe 555 Diponegoro War 731 gardens, see parks & Gunung Batur region 303- Komodo 370 Dutch rule 730-2 gardens 4, 304 Loksado 636 independence 733-5 Garut 107 Gunung Bromo 142, 197- Mamasa 688 Jakarta 64-5 gay travellers 786 200, 318, 2, 47, 319 Mentawai Islands 564-5 Java 60-1 Gede Pangrango National Gunung Inerie 384 Merabu 653 Kalimantan 607

Park 97-8 Gunung Kelud 194 Minahasa region 712 737-40 INDEX geology 773-80 Gunung Kerinci 581 Pulau Bunaken 708 728 Gerupuk 339-40 Gunung Krakatau 88, safety 48 Papua 465, 468, 739

-G  604-5 Gili Air 356-60, 357 Samarinda 642 religion 727-9

Gunung Lawu 157-9  I accommodation 358-9 Selo 147 rulers 729-30 Gunung Leuser National activities 356-7 Senaru 333 Suharto 737-8 Park 17, 554 beaches 356 Southern Baliem Valley Sulawesi 661 Gunung Merapi 144-6 courses 358 504-5 Sumatra 512 Gunung Palung National drinking & nightlife 359 Taman Nasional Bali Park 622 Susilo Bambang food 359 Barat 313-14 Yudhoyono (SBY) Gunung Penanggungan 191 information 360 Tana Toraja 686 741-2 Gunung Rinjani 333, travel to/from 360 47 Tangkahan 522 Timor-Leste 740 Gunung Sibayak 524 Gili Gede 326-7 Tirta Gangga 291, 294 trade 725-7 Gunung Sitoli, 535-6 Gili Islands 11, 342-60, 342 Tomohon 712 Wahid, Abdurrahman 741 Gunung Tambora 365 Gili Meno 352-6, 353, Ujung Kulon National Widodo, Joko 742-3 36, 39 Park 90 WWII 733-4 accommodation 354-5 H Hilimaeta 538 hitching 798 activities 353-4 Harau Valley 577 Hilinawalo Mazingo 536-7 HIV 802 beaches 353 healers, see balian Hilisimaetano 538 holidays 787-8 drinking & nightlife 355 health 800-4 751-2 Homo erectus 60 food 355 hepatitis A 802 historic buildings hot springs information 356 hepatitis B 802 Bale Kambang 282 Air Panas Soa 384 shopping 355-6 hiking 26, 45-8 Benteng Nassau 450-1 Cipanas hot springs 96 travel to/from 356 Amed 295 Eheng 649 Gracia Spa 105 Gili Trawangan 344-52, Baliem Valley 500-1 Gunongan 541 Kawah Rengganis 106 345, 349, 11 Baluran National Park Hatta’s House 450 Lombongo Hot Springs accommodation 347-50 210 Istana Bogor 93 703 activities 346-7 Belaraghi Village Trek Istana Mini 450 Hot Springs beaches 345 385 Kertha Gosa 282 689 courses 347 Bengkulu 584 Lawang 160 Pelangi 712 drinking & nightlife 352 611 Pagelaran Pavilion 128 Sari Ater Hot Spring Resort 105 food 350-2 Bromo-Tengger-Semeru Schelling House 450 National Park 201 Semangat Gunung 525 information 352 Ethnographic Bukit Kelam 617 Songgoriti 191 shopping 352 Museum 649 Bukit Lawang 519-20 House of Danar Hadi 151 travel to/from 352 Syahbandar Menara 67 Candidasa 289 177 Gomo 536 Tjong A Fie Mansion 516 Danau Tamblingan 300 Gorontalo 702-4 historic sites Danau Toba 529 graves 679, see also Alongga Huby Mummy I cemeteries, tombs Gunung Agung 284 502 Iboih 548-9 Batak Graves 529 Gunung Api 454 Batak Graves 529 Ijen Plateau 201-3 Kambira Baby Graves Gunung Arjuna 191 Karassik 679 168, 758-60 687 Gunung Batukau 302-3 King Sidabutar’s Grave immigration 404 528 King Sidabutar’s Grave Gunung Batur 305-6 Papua 469 528 Stone Chairs 529 Gunung Inerie 384 Imogiri 142 mass graves 543 Werapak Elosak Mummy Gunung Lawu 158 Indrayanti 143-4 Green Canyon 113-14 500 Gunung Merapi 145 insurance 785, 797-8, 800 guides 50 Gunung Merbabu 145 Wimontok Mabel Mummy 500 internet access 785 Gunung Agung 283-5 Gunung Papandayan 108 Yeh Pulu 278 internet resources 21, 219 Gunung Api 16, 454, 16 Gunung Prau 119 history 725-43 surfing 44 Gunung Arjuna-Lalijiwo Gunung Rinjani 333, 334 747, 749-50 Reserve 190 Bali 213, 216 Gunung Welirang 191 Islamic Center 642 Gunung Batukau Area Chinese settlers 727 Ijen Plateau 202-3 islands 26 302-3 democracy 735-7, 740-2 Kelimutu 390 itineraries 30-5 820 J Jelenga 360-1 Kepala Arus 506 shopping 402 Jailolo 433-4 Jember 205 Kerinci Seblat National sights 399 Park 580-3 Jakarta 62-85, 63, 14 Jembrana Coast 317 tours 400 accommodation 74-6 Jepara 168-70 Kerinci Valley 19, 578, 19 travel to/from 402, 403 67-70, jewellery 761 Kerobokan 18, 237-9, travel within 403 76, 68 Jimbaran 244-5 18, 292 Kupang region 403-4 INDEX INDEX children, travel with 81 Jimbaran Beach 244 Kersik Tua 580 Kuta (Bali) 222-31, 224, Cikini 74-5, 78, 79-80, 82 Jimbaran Fish Market 244 Ketambe 554-6 226-7, 293 drinking & nightlife 14, Jin De Yuan 65 kitesurfing accommodation 224-8

J- 78-80 Kuta (Lombok) 336-7 activities 222, 224  L entertainment 80-1 Pantai Lakey 366 drinking & nightlife 229  K festivals & events 73-4 Sanur 251 food 228-9 Kalabahi 394-6 food 76-8 klotok travel 624 information 230 Kalabahi region 396-8 Klungkung (Semarapura) shopping 230 Glodok 65-7, 76, 79, 66 Kalala 414 282 sights 222 history 64-5 Kalibaru 204-5 Kolaka 715-16 travel to/from 230 information 82-3 Kalimantan 56, 606-58, Komodo 369-71, 369 Jalan Jaksa area 74, 608-9 travel within 231 Komodo dragons 371, 774 77-8, 75 accommodation 606 Kuta (Lombok) 335-9 Komodo National Park 11, Kota 65-7, 76, 79, 66 Central Kalimantan accommodation 337-8 370, , 74-5, 78, 79- 622-32 10 41 activities 336-7 Korowai 508 80, 82 climate 606 drinking & nightlife 338 Kota Ambon 437-42, shopping 81-2 East Kalimantan 637-58 440 food 338 accommodation 439 sights 65-71 food 606 information 338-9 activities 439 70-1, 76-7, highlights 608 sights 336 79, 81-2, drinking & nightlife 441 72 history 607 travel to/from 339 tours 72-3 food 439-41 itineraries 33 travel within 339 travel to/from 83-4 information 441 North Kalimantan 637, Kuta region (Lombok) travel within 84-5 658 shopping 441 339-41 70-1 South Kalimantan 632-7 sights 437 Kuta Beach (Bali) 222 Jambi 592-5 travel seasons 606 travel to/from 442 Kutai National Park 651 jamu 161 travel within 607, 610 travel within 442 Jantur 648 West Kalimantan 610-22 Kota Bangun 647-8 Japanese B encephalitis Kota Biak 490-3 L wildlife 607 Labuan 89 802 Kota Gede 128 Kaliurang 144-6 Labuan Bajo 24, 373-82, jati 168 Kota Saparua 445 Kandangan 635-6 376-7 Jatiluwih Rice Fields 302 Karimunjawa Islands 15, Kota Ternate 425-30, 425, accommodation 377-9 Java 55, 58-211, 59 170-4, 318, 318, 15 426 activities 374-5, 377 accommodation 58 accommodation 427-8 accommodation 171-2 drinking & nightlife 380 activities 71-2 food 428-9 activities 170-1 food 379-80 Central Java 115, information 429 116 festivals & events 171 information 381 climate 58 shopping 429 food 173 shopping 381 culture 61-2 sights 425-7 information 173 tours 377 travel to/from 429 East Java 174-211, 175 sights 170 travel to/from 381-2 travel within 430 food 58 travel to/from 173 travel within 382 Krakal Bay 143-4 highlights 59 travel within 173 Labuhan Lombok 341-2 , see Gunung history 60-1 Kartini, Raden Ajeng 169 Lagoi 592 Krakatau itineraries 31 Kawah Ijen 202 Lake Jempang 648-9 Kraton 125 travel to/from 62 kayaking lakes 761 travel within 62 Banyak Islands 552 Danau Batur 304-5 Krui 599-600 West Java 86-115, 87 Raja Ampat Islands 476 Danau Bratan 298-301, Kudus 167-8 Java Man 60 Kebun Raya 92 299 Kukup 143-4 Java’s north coast 159-74 Kedah 556 Danau Buyan 299-300 Kumai 627-8 Java’s south coast 142-4 Kefamenanu 406-7 Danau Gunung Tujuh Jayapura 484-8, 485, 490 Kefamenanu region 407 Kupang 399-403, 401 582 accommodation 400-1 Kei Islands 457-63, 458-9 Danau Habbema 502 Kelimutu 389-90 drinking & nightlife Danau Kaco 582 401-2 Map Pages 000 Kemuning 159 Danau Kerinci 582 food 401 Photo Pages 000 Kendari 716-17, 717 Danau Laguna 424 information 402 821 Danau Maninjau 575-7, longhouses 619 Ikat Market 388 travel to/from 568, 569 576 Jimbaran Fish Market travel within 568-70 Danau Poso 692 692-4 244 Mentawaian people 567 Danau Segara Anak 332 Lovina 306-10, 308 Kota Saparua 445 Merabu 653-4 Danau Sentani 489-90 Luba 386 Market Apung 168 Merak 88 Danau Sentarum Luwuk 696 Pasar (Ende) 388 Merauke 504-6

National Park 620 Pasar Baru 93 Merdeka Square 67 INDEX Danau Tambing 693 Pasar Beringharjo 128 M Meru Betiri National Park Danau Tamblingan Pasar Bolu 679 205-6 mushrooms 531

-Pasar Bunga 185 Mesjid Raya Baiturrahman  N 299-300 Mahu 445

Danau Tempe 674-5 Pasar Jibama 497 541  M Makale 687 Danau Toba 527-33, 528 Pasar Kedelang 395 Makale region 687-8 Danau Tolire Besar 424 Pasar Klewer 156 558, 572 Makassar 662-8, 664 Kawah Candradimuka Pasar Malam 368 mobile phones 20, 789 119 accommodation 663, money 20, 21, 786-7 665 Pasar Malam Hongkong Kawah Ijen 202 616 money changers 787 drinking & nightlife 666 106 Pasar Santa 82 Moni 390-1 food 665-6 Kawah Sikidang 119 Pasar Terapung Kuin monuments shopping 666 Kawah Sileri 119 634 Bajra Sandhi Monument sights 663 Lake Jempang 648 Pasar Terapung Lok 254 Situ Patengan 106 tourist information Baintan 634 280 666-7 Telaga Warna 118 Pasar Triwindu 156 Makam Bung Karno travel to/from 667-8 Lampung 597-605 Petak Sembilan Market 193-4 travel within 668 Lampu’uk 549 67 Monumen Irian Jaya Malang 184-9, 186, 190 Tomohon 711 Pembebasan 70 Langgur 457, 460 accommodation 185-7 Monumen Nasional 70 language 20, 789-96 traditional market drinking & nightlife 188 (Oinlasi) 406 Tugu Khatulistiwa 611 Lease Islands 444-6, 444 entertainment 188 Mas 278-9 Tugu MacArthur 490 legal matters 785-6 festivals & events 185 Maslete 407 mosques Legian 222-31, , 224 226-7 food 187-8 Masohi 446-7 Islamic Center 642 accommodation 224-5, information 188 massages, see also spas Islamic Center Nusa 228-9 sights 184-5 Bandung 101 Tenggara Barat 324, activities 222, 224 tours 185 Denpasar 254 748 drinking & nightlife 229 travel to/from 188-9 Gili Trawangan 347 Majolica Ulama food 228-9 Indonesia 427 travel within 189 Jakarta 71 information 230 Masjid Agung At-Taqwa malaria 802 Labuan Bajo 375-6 shopping 230 638 Malino 668-9 Senggigi 328-9 sights 222 Masjid al Akbar 177 Maluk 361-2 Mataram 323-5 travel to/from 230 Masjid Istiqlal 70, 757 Maluku 56, 420-63, 421 Maumere 392-3 travel within 231 Masjid Raya al-Fatah accommodation 420 measures 786 Legong 275, 7 438-9 climate 420 Medan 513-19, 514-15 Lembar 325 Masjid Sultan Suriansyah food 420 accommodation 516 Lembeh Strait 714 632 highlights 421 drinking & nightlife 517 Lempur Tengah 579-80 Mesjid Abdurrahman 611 North Maluku 422-36 food 516-17 lesbian travellers 786 Mesjid Agung 167 travel to/from 422 information 517-18 LGBT+ community 746 Mesjid Agung Pondok travel within 422 sights 513-16 Tinggi 578 LGBT+ travellers 786 Mamasa 689-90, tours 516 Mesjid Al-Manar 167 Lhok Nga 549 689 Mamasa Valley 688-90 travel to/from 518-19 Mesjid Jamik 183 Lingga 525 travel within 519 Mesjid Raya 515 liveaboards Manado 704-7, 705 Medewi 317 Mesjid Raya Baiturrah- Banda Islands 448 Mancong 649 medical services 800-1 man 541 Komodo 370 Manokwari 480-3, 481 Melak 649-50 Mesjid Raya Sabilal Labuan Bajo 374-5 Manokwari region 483-4 Temple & Muhtadin 632 Raja Ampat Islands 24, maps 786 Monastery 122 Mesjid Wapaue 443 473, 475, 479 Maratua 656-7 Mentawai Islands 563-70, motorcycle travel 797-8 local languages 793 Marimbati 434 564 mountains 495 Loksado 636-7 markets accommodation 566-8 Carstensz 495 Lombok 322-3, Banjarmasin 634 323 activities 564-6 Gunung Agung 283, 285 Lombok Forest Tour 344 Bosnik 493 information 568 Gunung Api 16, 424, floating markets 634 Long Bagun 650-1 454, 16 822 mountains continued BIASA ArtSpace 231 Museum Pusaka Karo 524 Betung Kerihun National Gunung Api Gamalama Blambangan Museum Museum Pusaka Nias Park 618 430 209 535-6 Bogani Nani Wartabone Gunung Ara 370 Dream Museum Zone Museum RA Kartin 168 National Park 703 Gunung Arjuna 190 222 Museum Rudana 279 Bromo-Tengger-Semeru National Park 197-201 Gunung Batur 46, 303 Galeri Nasional 69 Museum Sang Nila

INDEX INDEX 304 Hotel Tugu Malang 185 Utama 587 Bukit Barisan Selatan National Park 605 Gunung Bromo 197, 318, House of Danar Hadi 151 Museum Sejarah Jakarta Danau Sentarum 2, 47, 319 House of Sampoerna 177 65 Museum Seni Rupa Dan National Park 620 M- Gunung Gede 97 Istana Kadriah 611  Keramik 67 fees 610

N Gunung Halimun 95 Jasa Menenun Mandiri  Museum Seribu Moko Gede Pangrango Gunung Inerie 384 617 395 National Park 97-8 Gunung Iya 387 Jogja National Museum 128 Museum Siginjai 594 Gunung Arjuna-Lalijiwo Gunung Krakatau 604 Reserve 190 Keraton 425-6 Museum Siwalima 437 Gunung Lawu 157 Gunung Halimun Merapi Museum Museum Sulawesi Gunung Lempuyang 294 National Park 95 144 Tengah 694 Gunung Marapi 570 Museum Tekstil 71 Gunung Leuser National Park 519, 554 Gunung Meja 387 646 Museum 65 Gunung Merapi 144 Gunung Merapi National Museum Asi Mbojo 367 Neka Art Museum 265 Park 144, 146 Gunung Palung 622 Museum Bahari 67 Pasifika Museum 249 Gunung Papandayan 107 Gunung Palung National Museum Bahari Bintan Pura Penulisan Park 622 Gunung Penanggungan 591 303 191 Kayan Mentarang Museum Balanga 628 Radya Pustaka Museum National Park 658 Gunung Prau 119 Museum Bank Indonesia 151 Komodo National Park Gunung Rinjani 332, 47 65 Ronggowarsito Museum 11, 370, 10, 41 161 Gunung Semeru 200 Museum Bank Mandiri Kutai National Park 651 65-7 Royal Carriage-House Gunung Sibayak 524 Lore Lindu National Park Museum 183 Gunung Singgalang 572 Museum Huta Bolon 692-4 Simanindo 529 RUCI Art Space & Gunung Tambora 365 Boardwalk Cafe 71 Gunung Trikora 495 Museum Kailasa Dieng 170 119 Rumah Budaya 450 Kelimutu 389 Manusela National Park Museum Kapal Museum of 495 446 Samurrarska 122 Ancient Man 151 Muara Jambi 592-4 Meru Betiri National Museum Kapuas Raya Selasar Sunaryo Art Park 205 Muara Muntai 648 617 Space 100-1 Muller Mountains 651 Pangandaran National Museum Kareta Kraton Setia Darma House of Park 108-9 multiculturalism 746-7, see 128 Mask and Puppets 279 also culture Sebangau National Park Museum Karolingga 525 Sono-Budoyo Museum 631-2 Munduk 300-2 128 Museum Layang-Layang Seventeen Islands Museum Bahari Bintan 591 70 Sonyine Malige 431 386 Museum Bank Indonesia Museum Le Mayeur 251 State Museum of Beng- Taman Arboretum Sylva 65 Museum Loka Budaya kulu Province 584 610 Museum Layang-Layang 485 Tonyraka Art Lounge 279 Taman Nasional Bali 70-1 Museum Macan 70 Ullen Sentalu 146 Barat 313-14 Museum Le Mayeur 251 Museum Nasional 67, 69 music 724, 753-4 Taman Nasional Teluk Museum Macan 70 Museum Negeri Banda Cenderawasih 494 Museum Nasional 67, 69 Aceh 541 Taman Wisata Alam Museum of North Suma- Museum Negeri La N Kerandangan 330 Nabire 494-5 tra 515 Galigo 663 Tangkoko-Batuangas Museum Pusaka Nias 535 Museum Negeri Propinsi Nagoya 588-9 Dua Saudara Nature museums & galleries Bali 254 Namano 446 Reserve 714-15 Affandi Museum 128-9 Museum of North national parks & reserves Tanjung Puting National 776 Agung Rai Museum of Sumatra 515 Park 13, 622-5, 13, 49 Art 263 Museum Nusa Tenggara Aketajawe-Lolobata Togean Islands National National Park 436 Ambarawa Train Station Timur 399-400 Park 24, 701 Museum 166 Museum Pinawetengan Baluran National Park Ujung Kulon National 711 210-11 Park 89-91 Museum Provinsi Kalim- Batang Palupuh Nature Wakatobi National antan Barat 611 Reserve 570 Park 719 Map Pages 000 Museum Lukisan Batur Geopark Way Kambas National Photo Pages 000 266 303 Park 602-4 823 natural disasters 697, 723-4 travel to/from 561-2 Pantai Bira 669-72, 670 Pasifika Museum 249 Neka Art Museum 265 travel within 562 Pantai Bungus 562-3 Pasir Panjang 462-3 Nemberala 408-9 Padang Padang 246-7, 45 Pantai Daftel 463 passports 793 Nemberala region 409 Padangbai 285-8, 287 Pantai Indrayanti 143 Pattimura (Thomas Nest 354 Paga 391-2 Pantai Kajoli 430 Matulessy) 445 newspapers 786 painting 754 Pantai Kartini 169 Pegunungan Arfak 483-4 None 405-6 Pantai Keramas 285 Pelompek 580 INDEX north Bali 306-14, 307 Dalam Loka 363 Pantai Koka 392 Pemuteran 310-12 North Highlands 684 Grand Palace of Pantai Kukup 144 peoples -North Kalimantan 637, Pagaruyuang 574-5 Pantai Kupa Kupa 432 Bajau 702  N

Istana Kuning 626 Pantai Lakey 366-7 Batak 530  P 658 North Lowlands 685 Istana Maimoon 515 Pantai Luari 433 Dani 495-6, 500, 503, 17 North Maluku 422-36 Istana Merdeka 69-70 Pantai Maimol 395 Mentawaian 567 North Sulawesi 702-15 Istana Pangeran Pantai Mawan 336 Minangkabau 558, 572 North Sumatra 513-34 Mangkubumi 626 Pantai Ngurtavur 461 Orang Rimba 593 Northern Leihitu 443-4 Istano Silinduang Bulan Pantai Ohoidertutu 462 Toraja 678-9 575 northern Papua 484-95 Pantai Paga 391 Pero 419 Kraton (Yogyakarta) 125 Northern Seram 447-50 Pantai Panjang 584 photography 787 Kraton (Bau Bau) 717 Nusa Ceningan 261-2 Pantai Pasir Putih Pianynemo 14, 474, 14 249-50 Kraton (Sumenep) 183 (Candidasa) 289 pig feasts 502 Nusa Lembongan 257- Kraton Surakarta 151 Pantai Pasir Putih planning, see 63, 259 Mangkunegaran Palace (Manokwari) 480 also individual regions Nusa Penida 262-3 151 Pantai Segara Indah 493 budgeting 20 Nusa Tenggara 55, 320- Puri Agung Karangasem Pantai Seger 336 calendar of events 27-9 290 419, 321 Pantai Sorake 539 family travel 52-4 Puri Agung Semarapura accommodation 320 Pantai Tanjung Gelam 170 282 itineraries 30-5 climate 320 Pantai Tanjung Sanghyang Rumah Bolon 525 new visitors 22-3 food 320 258 127-8 regions 55-6 highlights 321 Pantai Tarimbang 414 266 repeat visitors 24 itineraries 31 Pantai Tedis 399 Palangka Raya 628-31, travel seasons 20, 38 travel to/from 322 Pantar 397 628-9 plants 582, 607, 775 Papua 56, 464-508, 466-7 Nyepi 216 Palembang 596-7 politics 722 accommodation 464 Palu 694-5, 694 Pontianak 610-16, 612 climate 464 Pampang Dayak accommodation 612-14 O culture 468 Oebelo 404 ceremonies 645 drinking & nightlife 614 food 464 Oesao 404 Panataran 193-4 festivals & events 612 highlights 466 Ohoidertawun 461-2 Pancasila 728 food 614 history 465, 468, 739 Oinlasi 406 Pangandaran 108-13, 110 information 614 itineraries 32 ojeks 798 accommodation 109-11 shopping 614 northern Papua 484-95 Old City (Semarang) 160-1 activities 109 sights 610 southern Papua 504-8 opening hours 21 drinking & nightlife 112 tours 611-12 safety 470 orang pendek 581 food 111-12 travel to/from 614-16 tours 469-70 593 information 112 travel within 616 travel seasons 464 orang-utans 623, 640, 774, shopping 112 population 723 travel to/from 470 13, 49 sights 108-9 Poso 692 west Papua 470-84 tours 109 postal services 787 Papua travel permit 469 travel to/from 112 Poto Tano 360 P Parapat 527 travel within 113 Praiyawang 413-14 Pacitan 194 Pare Pare 675 Pangandaran region 113-14 Praya 335 Padaido Islands 493-4 parks & gardens Pangkalan Bun 625-8, 626 Probolinggo 195-7 Padang 558-62, 560 Bali Botanic Garden 298 pantai, see beaches public holidays 787-8 accommodation 559 Kebun Raya 92 Pantai Anggopi 493 public transport 798-9 drinking & nightlife 561 Kebun Raya Cibodas 97 Pantai Annora 170 Pulau Ai 456 festivals & events 559 Kebun Raya Purwodadi Pulau Ambon 436-44, 437 food 559-60 Pantai Areguling 336 190 Pulau Asei 490 information 561 Pantai Bama 210 Taman Burung & Taman Pulau Asok 552 shopping 561 Pantai Bandengan 168 Anggrek 493 Pulau Balai 552 sights 558-9 Pantai Base G 485-6 Taman Tirta Gangga 291 Pulau Banda Besar 454 tours 559 Pantai Batu Topeng 170 Pasemah Highlands 598 824 Pulau Bangkaru 551 Pulau Una Una 700 Christianity 750-1 entertainment 165 Pulau Batam 588-9 Pulau Walea Kodi 702 Hinduism 751-2 food 163-4 Pulau Batu Daka 699 Pulau Wangi Wangi 719-20 Islam 747, 749-50 information 165 Pulau Biak 490-4, 491, 492 Pulau Weh 24, 318, 545-9, offerings 217 sights 160-1 Pulau Binongko 720 318 Wektu Telu 332 travel to/from 165 Pulau Bintan 589-90 puppets 761 Rende 413-14 travel within 166 INDEX INDEX Pulau Bunaken 15, 707-11, puras 26, see also temples reserves, see national Semarapura, see Klung- 708, 15 Pura Batu Bolong 327-8 parks & reserves kung (Semarapura) Pulau Derawan 654-6 Pura Besakih 283-4 responsible travel 788 Sembalun Valley 334

P- Pulau Gunung Api 454-5 Pura Dalem Penetaran rhinoceros 91 Seminyak 231-7, 232-3  S Pulau Halmahera 431-6, Ped 262 Riau 586-92 accommodation 233-4  432 Pura Jagatnatha 254 Rinca 372, 369 activities 231, 233 Pulau Hatta 455-6 282 Riung 386-7 drinking & nightlife Pulau Hoga 720 Pura Lempuyang 24, river surfing 506 235-6 Pulau Kadidiri 699-700 291, 294 rivers food 234-5 Pulau 657 Pura Lingsar 324 Sungai Kapuas 12, information 237 Pulau Kaledupa 720 Pura Luhur Batukau 302 617, 12 shopping 236-7 Pulau Kei Kecil 460-3 Pura Luhur Ulu Watu 247, Sungai Mahakam 645-51 sights 231 293, , Pulau Laman 552 54 293 Sungai Penuh 578-9 travel to/from 237 Pura Meru 324 Pulau Lambodong 552 Sungai Pinang 562-3 Seminyak Beach 231 Pura Pancering Jagat Pulau Lembeh 714 rock climbing 50-1 Senaru 332-4 304 Pulau Liukang Loe 672-3 Rote 407-9 Sendangbiru 192 Pura Petitenget 231 Pulau Madura 182-4 Ruteng 382-3 Senggarang 590-1 Pura Puseh 258 Pulau Maitara 430 Senggigi 327-31, 328 Pura Puseh Desa Batu- accommodation 329 Pulau Malenge 701-2 bulan 279-80 S activities 328-9 Pulau Mansinam 480 Pura Rambut Siwi 317 Sabang 546-7 drinking & nightlife 330 Pulau Mare 430 316 safety 23, 140, 788-9 food 329-30 Pulau Menjangan 311 Pura Taman alcohol poisoning 788 Pulau Molana 445 265-6 boat travel 796 sights 327-8 Pulau Morotai 24, 435 Pura Tanah Lot 314-15 diving 40 travel to/from 330-1 travel within 331 Pulau Moyo 364-5 Pura 280, environmental hazards Pulau Ndana 409 748 803 Sengkang 674-5 Pulau Neilaka 456 hiking 48 Senopi 484 Pulau Nias 534-9, 535 298 natural disasters 697 Sentani 488-9, 489 Pulau Palambak Besar 551 Puri Agung Semarapura Papua 470 Sentani region 489-90, Pulau Penyenget 590 282 sago 508 490 Purwodadi 190 Pulau Ragu-Ragu 552 Samarinda 642-5, 643 Setia Darma House of Mask & Puppets 279 Pulau Run 456 Putussibau 618-20 Sangihe-Talaud Islands 716 Seventeen Islands 387 Pulau Sangalaki 657 Sangiran Museum of shopping 23, see also Pulau Saparua 444-6 Ancient Man 151 R individual regions Pulau Selayar 673 rabies 802 Sanur 251-3, 252 Sibolga 533-4 Pulau 192 rafting Sape 368-9 Sidemen 282-3 Bukit Lawang 520 sasi 461 Pulau Seram 446-7, 446 Singaraja 312-13 Ketambe 555 Sauwandarek Jetty 474 Pulau Sikandang 551 Singkawang 616-17 Loksado 637 Sebangau National Park Pulau Siladen 707-11 Singkil 549-51 Raha 718 631-2 Pulau Simeulue 550 Sintang 617-18 Pulau Tabuhan 209 Raja Ampat Islands 14, Seblat Elephant Conserva- tion Centre 584 Sire 331 Pulau Tailana 552 472-80, 473, 14, 41 Sedahan 621 smoking 786 Pulau Tanimbar Kei 463 accommodation 476-80 Sekumpul Waterfall 312-13 snorkelling 25, 42-3, see Pulau Ternate 423-30, 424 activities 472-6 also diving travel to/from 480 Selasar Sunaryo Art Space Pulau Tidore 430-1, 430 100 Amed 294-5 Ramadan 749 Pulau Togean 700-1 Selo 146-7 Banda Islands 448, 42 Rantepao 678-83, 680 Pulau Tomia 720 Selong Blanak 340-1 Banyak Islands 552 Rantepao region 685-7 Pulau Tuangku 551 Semangat Gunung 525-7 Crocodile Head 364 Rantung Beach 362-3 Semarang 160-6, 162-3 Derawan Archipelago 654 Ratenggaro 419 accommodation 161-3 Gili Air 356 Map Pages religion 747, 749-52 000 activities 161 Gili Meno 353-4 Photo Pages Buddhism 751-2 000 drinking & nightlife 164 Gili Trawangan 346 825 Labuan Bajo 374-5 Spice Wars 457 surfing 26, 43-5 travel to/from 677, 687 Lovina 308-9 Spider Web Rice Fields 382 Banyak Islands 552 travel within 678 Northern Seram 447 sport 752 Batu Karas 114 Tangkahan 522-3 Padangbai 285-6 Sriwedari Theatre 155 Cimaja 96 Tangkoko-Batuangas Pasir Panjang 462 St Joseph’s Cathedral 610 Gerupuk 339 Dua Saudara Nature Pemuteran 310-11 street food 135 Gili Trawangan 347 Reserve 714-15

Pulau Bunaken 709 Sukadana 620-2 G-land 207 Tanjung Benoa 250-1 INDEX Pulau Hatta 455 Sulawesi 56, 659-720 internet resources 44 Tanjung Isuy 649 Pulau Kadidiri 699 accommodation 659 Kepala Arus 506 Tanjung Karang 695

-Pulau Kei Kecil 461 Central Sulawesi Krui 599 Tanjung Pinang 590  S Pulau Satonda 364 690-702 Kuta (Kuta) 222 Tanjung Puting National  T Park 13, 622-5, , Pulau Weh 545 climate 659 Kuta (Lombok) 337 13 49 Tanjung Setia 599-600 Raja Ampat Islands 475 earthquake 690 Lombok 336 tarsiers 715 Senggigi 328 food 659 Mentawai Islands 565-6 Tasikoki Wildlife Rescue Southwest Gilis 327 highlights 660 Nusa Lembongan 258 713 Tangkoko-Batuangas history 661 Pacitan 194 tau tau 679, 757 Dua Saudara Nature North Sulawesi 702-15 Padang Padang 246, 45 Reserve 715 Tawangmangu 159-60 Southeast Sulawesi Pangandaran 109 Tulamben 297 715-20 taxis 799 Pantai Lakey 366 Soasio 430-1 South Sulawesi 662-88 tea 770 Pantai Mawi 340 Soe 404-5 travel to/from 661 Telaga Warna 118 Pantai Medewi 317 Soe region 405-6 travel within 661-2 telephone services 20, 789 Seminyak 233 Sofifi 433 tsunami 690 Telo Islands 538 Sumatra’s west coast Teluk Dalam 539 Solo 150-7, 152 sulphur gatherers 202 537 Teluk Lagundri 539 accommodation 153-4 Sumatra 56, 509-605, surf tax 566 Temkessi 407 activities 151 510-11 Tanjung Setia 599 temples 26, 217, see courses 151 accommodation 509 Telo Islands 538 also puras drinking & nightlife 155 climate 509 Ujung Kulon National Arjuna Complex 119 entertainment 155 food 509 Park 91 Banyan Tree Temple 591 festivals & events 153 highlights 510, 510-11 Ulu Watu 247 Borobudur 19, 120-4, food 154-5 history 512 Watu Karang 195 318, 19, 318 information 156 itineraries 31 sustainable tourism 351 Candi Bima 118 shopping 155-6 North Sumatra 513-34 swamp buffalo cowboys Candi Cetho 158-9 sights 151 South Sumatra 595-7 636 Candi 196 tours 152-3 travel to/from 512 Candi Jago 190 travel to/from 156-7 travel within 512-13 T Candi Kidal 189-90 travel within 157 557-83, Taka Bonerate Islands 673 Candi Muara Takus 586 Sorong 471-2 557 Taman Fatahillah 65 Candi 122 south Bali 243-63, Sumba 409-19, 410 223 Taman Nasional Bali Barat Candi 149 South Kalimantan 632-7 Sumbawa 360-9 313-14 Candi Singosari 189 South Sulawesi 662-88 Sumbawa Besar 363-4 Taman Nasional Teluk Candi Sukuh 157 South Sumatra 595-7 Sumenep 183-4, 184 Cenderawasih 494 Candi 189 Southeast Sulawesi 715-20 sun bears 640 Taman Sari 127-8 Gedung Batu 160 Southern Kei Kecil 462 Sunan Kudus Tomb 167-8 Taman Tirta Gangga 291 Gunung Kawi Sebatu Taman Wisata Alam Keran- Southern Leitimur 442 Sungai Kapuas 12, 617, 12 280 dangan 330 southern Papua 504-8 Sungai Mahakam 645-51 Panataran Hindu Tambakrejo 192 southwest beaches 222-39, Sungai Penuh 578-9 temples 193-4 Tambolaka 417-19 223 Sungai Pinang 562-3 Jin De Yuan 65 Tambrauw 484 Southwest Gilis 326-7 Surabaya 174-81, 176 Kienteng Ban Hian Southwestern Peninsula accommodation 178 Tampaksiring 280 Kong 704 325-6 courses 178 Tana Toraja 12, 675-88, Kong Co Kong Tik Cun spas drinking & nightlife 676-7 Ong temple 177 Jakarta 71-2 179-80 activities 677, 686 Mendut Temple & Kota Ambon 439 entertainment 180 coffee 684 Monastery 122 Kuta (Bali) 224 food 179 entrance fees 681 Temples 149 Labuan Bajo 375, 377 shopping 180 funeral ceremonies Prambanan 147-50 678-9 Seminyak 231-2 sights 174-7 Soetji Nurani Temple 632 guides 682 Senggigi 328-9 travel to/from 180 Sun Tien Kong Chinese tourist information 677 Ubud 267 travel within 180-1 Temple 451 826 temples continued courses 266-7 791-2 west Papua 470-84 Taman Alam Lumbini 525 drinking & nightlife 273-4 West Sumatra 557-83, 557 Vihara Dharma Sasana entertainment 274-5 West Sumba 414 591 W festivals & events 270 Wae Rebo 383 West Timor 398-407, 399 646-7 food 272-3 Waiara 393 Western Leihitu 443-4 Tentena 690-2 information 276-7 whale sharks 197 Waikabubak 415-17, 416 INDEX INDEX Tering 650 shopping 275-6 Waingapu 411-13 whitewater rafting 45, 712 Tetebatu 334-5 sights 263-6 Wakatobi Islands 718-20 wildlife, see animals textile 758-60 tours 267, 280 walking, see also hiking wildlife parks & reserves T- theatre 155, 753 travel to/from 277 280 

Y Gili Trawangan 347  theft 789 travel within 277-8 Komodo 370 Bali Reptile Park 280 Thousand Islands 85-6 Ubud Monkey Forest 266 Sidemen 282 Sadengan 206 time 20, 789-90 Ubud region 263-80 Taman Gunung Meja 480 Sukamade Turtle Beach Timor-Leste 404, 740 Ujung Kulon National Park 205-6 Tangkoko-Batuangas Tiong Ohang 650 89-91 Dua Saudara Nature wildlife watching 48-50 tipping 23 Ulu Watu 247-8, 248 Reserve 715 Tanjung Puting National Park 624 Tirta Gangga 290-1, 294 Ungasan 249 Wamena 496-9, 498 Way Kambas National Tobelo 434-5 USAT Liberty 297 Wanokaka 419 Park 603 Togean Islands 16, 697-702, warrior dances 502 , Gorontalo 703 698 16 Wasur National Park 506-7 toilets 790 V Wodong 394 vacations 787-8 Watampone 673-4 Tololela 386 752 vaccinations 801 water sports 51 tombs, see also women travellers 792 waterfalls 301 cemeteries, graves vegan travellers 767, 769 health 804 vegetarian travellers Air Terjun Cubanrondo Lemo 686, Wonosobo 117-18 12 767, 769 192 Lo’ko’ Mata 684 woodcarving 756, 758 visas 20, 790-1 Air Terjun Oehala 405 Londa 686 work 792 Papua 469 Air Terjun Piala & Pana’ 684 volcanoes 16, 773-4 Laumarang 696 Tampang Allo 687 Air Terjun Saluopa 690 Gunung Api 16, 454, 16 Y Tomohon 711-13 Gunung Api Gamalama Air Terjun Sipiso-Piso Yali Country 502-4 topeng masks 760 430 525 Toraja (people) 678-9 Gunung Arjuna 190 Air Terjun Tanggedu 412 Gapang 547 tourism 724 Gunung Batur 305 Air Terjun Telun Berasap Gili Air 356-7 tourist information 790 582 Gunung Bromo 197, 318, Gili Meno 354 Air Terjun Waimarang train travel 799 , Gili Trawangan 347 47 319 413 travel to/from Indonesia Gunung Dempo 598 Jakarta 71 793-4 Banyu Wana Amertha Gunung Dukono 432 Kuta (Lombok) 336 travel within Indonesia Waterfalls 300 Gunung Inerie 384 Sanur 251-2 794-9 Banyumala Twin Water- Gunung Kelud 194 Seminyak 233 trekking, see hiking falls 300 Gunung Kerinci 581 Ubud 267 Trikora 591-2 Mata Jitu Waterfall 364 Gunung Krakatau Triton Bay 483 Munduk Waterfall 300 Yogyakarta 124-42, 126, (Sumatra) 604 131, 133 Trowulan 181-2 Sekumpul Waterfall Gunung Krakatau 312-13 accessible travel 139 543, 690 (Krakatoa) 88 Watu Karang 195 accommodation 130-4 Tual 457-60, 460 Gunung Lawu 157 Wawo Muda 386 activities 129 Tulamben 296-7 Gunung Marapi 570 Way Kambas National Park courses 129 turtles 222, 310, 657 Gunung Merapi 144, 145 602-4 drinking & nightlife 136 typhoid 803 Gunung Papandayan Wayag 473 entertainment 136-7 107, 108 weather 20, 38 festivals & events 130 Gunung Rinjani 332, U 47 websites, see internet food 134-6 Gunung Sibayak 524 Ubud 17, 263-78, 264-5, resources information 140 Gunung Sinabung 525 268-9, 17 Weekuri Lagoon 417 planning 125 Gunung Singgalang 572 accommodation 270-2 weights 786 shopping 137-39 Gunung Tambora 365, activities 266, 264 Wektu Telu 332 sights 125 366 west Bali 314-17, 315 tours 129-30 Tangkuban Prahu 105 West Java 86-115, 87 travel to/from 140 volunteering 475, 621, Map Pages 000 West Kalimantan 610-22 travel within 141-2 Photo Pages 000 827 NOTES 828 NOTES ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 829

Map Legend

Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Gate Walking Tour detour Sikh Hut/Shelter Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lighthouse Winery/Vineyard Lookout Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Mountain/Volcano International Other Sight Oasis State/Province Park Disputed Activities, Pass Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Picnic Area Marine Park Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff Diving Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Population Course/Tour Capital (National) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (State/Province) River, Creek Skiing City/Large Town Intermittent River Snorkelling Town/Village Canal Surfing Water Swimming/Pool Transport Walking Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing Border crossing Reef Other Activity Bus Cable car/Funicular Areas Sleeping Cycling Airport/Runway Sleeping Ferry Camping /MRT/MTR station Beach/Desert Monorail Cemetery (Christian) Eating Parking Eating Petrol station Cemetery (Other) Skytrain/Subway station Glacier Drinking & Nightlife Taxi Drinking & Nightlife Train station/Railway Mudflat Cafe Tram Park/Forest Underground station Entertainment Other Transport Sight (Building) Entertainment Sportsground Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above Swamp/Mangrove Shopping appear on the maps in this book ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Stuart Butler East and West Java, Thousand Islands Stuart has been writing for Lonely Planet for a decade and during this time he’s come eye to eye with gorillas in the Con- golese jungles, met a man with horns on his head who could lie in fire, huffed and puffed over snow bound Himalayan mountain passes, interviewed a king who could turn into a tree, and had his fortune told by a parrot. And he’s met more than his fair share of self-proclaimed gods. When not on the road for Lonely Planet he lives on the beautiful beaches of southwest France with his wife and two young children.

Sofia Levin A Melbourne-based food and travel journalist, Sofia believes that eating in a country other than one’s own is the simplest way to understand a culture. She has a stomach of steel and the ability to sniff out local haunts. Aside from trawling Melbourne as the Lonely Planet Local, she also co-authors guide- books and writes for Fairfax newspapers and travel magazines. When she’s not travelling or eating, Sofia runs copywriting and social media company Word Salad and spreads smiles with her Insta-­famous poodle, @lifeofjinkee. Find her on Instagram and Twitter (@sofiaklevin).

Virginia Maxwell Ubud & East Bali Although based in Australia, Virginia spends at least half of her year updating Lonely Planet destination coverage across the globe. The Mediter- ranean is her major area of interest – she has covered Spain, Italy, Turkey, Syria, Lebanon, Israel, Egypt, Morocco and Tunisia for LP – but she also covers Finland, Bali, Armenia, the Netherlands, the US and Australia for LP products. Follow her @maxwellvirginia on Instagram and Twitter. Mark Johanson Lombok, Mark Johanson grew up in Virginia and has called five different countries home over the last decade while circling the globe report- ing for British newspapers (The Guardian), American magazines (Men’s Journal) and global media outlets (CNN, BBC). When not on the road, you’ll find him gaz- ing at the Andes from his current home in Santiago, Chile. Follow his adventures at www.markjohanson.com.

MaSovaida Morgan Bali MaSovaida is a travel writer and multimedia storyteller whose wanderlust has taken her to more than 40 countries and all seven continents. Previously, she was Lonely Planet’s Destination Editor for South America and Antarctica for four years, and worked as an editor for newspapers and NGOs in the Middle East and the United Kingdom. Follow her on Instagram @MaSovaida.

Jenny Walker Central Java A member of the British Guild of Travel Writers, Jenny Walker has travelled to more than 125 countries and has been writing for Lonely Planet for nearly 20 years. Currently working in Oman as Deputy CEO of Oman Academic Accreditation Authority, her MPhil thesis focused on the Arabic Orient in British Literature (Oxford University) and her PhD (nearing completion) is on the Arabian desert as trope.

Ray Bartlett Sulawesi Ray Bartlett has been travel writing for nearly two decades, bringing Japan, Korea, Mexico, Tanzania, Guatemala, Indonesia and many parts of the United States to life in rich detail for top-industry publishers, newspapers and magazines. His acclaimed debut novel, Sunsets of Tulum, set in Yucatán, was a Midwest Book Review 2016 Fiction pick. Among other pursuits, he surfs regularly and is an accomplished Argentine tango dancer. Follow him on Facebook (@ Ray BartlettAuthor), Twitter and Instagram (@kaisoradotcom). Ray currently divides his time between homes in the USA, Japan and Mexico.

Loren Bell Sulawesi When Loren first backpacked through Europe he was in the backpack. That memorable experience corrupted his six-month-old brain, ensuring he would never be happy sitting still. His penchant for peregrination has taken him from training dogsled teams in the Tetons to chasing in the jungles of Borneo – with only brief pauses for silly ‘responsible’ things like earning degrees. When he’s not demystifying destinations for Lonely Planet, Loren writes about science and conservation news. He camps in the Rocky Mountains where he probably spends too much time on his mountain bike and skis.

Jade Bremner Jakarta Jade has been a journalist for more than a decade. She has lived in and reported on four different regions. Wherever she goes she finds action sports to try, the weirder the better, and it’s no coincidence many of her favourite places have some of the best waves in the world. Jade has edited travel maga- zines and sections for Time Out and Radio Times, and has contributed to The Times, CNN and The Independent. She feels privileged to share tales from this wonderful planet we call home and is always looking for the next adventure. Follow her on Twitter @jadebremner. AOUR beat-up old STORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Dublin, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS David Eimer Maluku David has been a journalist and writer ever since abandoning the idea of a law career in 1990. After spells working in his native London and in Los Angeles, he moved to Beijing in 2005, where he contributed to a variety of news- papers and magazines in the UK. Since then, he has travelled and lived across China and in numerous cities in , including Bangkok, Phnom Penh and Yangon. He has been covering China, Myanmar and Thailand for Lonely Planet since 2006. David also contributed to the Plan, Understand and Survival Guide chapters.

Paul Harding Kalimantan As a writer and photographer, Paul has been travelling the globe for the best part of two decades, with an interest in remote and offbeat places, islands and cultures. He’s an author and contributor to more than 50 Lonely Planet guides to countries and regions as diverse as India, Belize, , Iran, Indonesia, New Zealand, Iceland, Finland, Philippines and – his home patch – Australia.

Ashley Harrell Papua After a brief stint selling day spa coupons door-to-door in South Florida, Ashley decided she’d rather be a writer. She went to journalism grad school, convinced a newspaper to hire her, and starting covering wildlife, crime and tour- ism, sometimes all in the same story. Fueling her zest for storytelling and the unknown, she traveled widely and moved often, from a tiny NYC apartment to a vast California ranch to a jungle cabin in Costa Rica, where she started writing for Lonely Planet. From there her travels became more exotic and farther flung, and she still laughs when paycheques arrive.

Trent Holden Sumatra A Geelong-based writer, located just outside Melbourne, Trent has worked for Lonely Planet since 2005. He’s covered 30-plus guidebooks across Asia, Africa and Australia. With a penchant for megacities, Trent’s in his element when assigned to cover a nation’s capital – the more chaotic the better – to unearth cool bars, art, street food and underground subculture. On the flipside he also writes books to idyllic tropical islands across Asia, in between going on safari to national parks in Africa and the subcontinent. When not travelling, Trent works as a free- lance editor and reviewer, and spends all his money catching live gigs. You can catch him on Twitter @hombreholden.

OVER MORE PAGE WRITERS Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN 36 005 607 983 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason- 12th edition – July 2019 able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about ISBN 978 1 78657 477 0 the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi- © Lonely Planet 2019 Photographs © as indicated 2019 mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in Singapore All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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