©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Indonesia Sumatra Kalimantan p509 p606 Sulawesi Maluku p659 p420 Papua p464 Java p58 Nusa Tenggara p320 Bali p212 David Eimer, Paul Harding, Ashley Harrell, Trent Holden, Mark Johanson, MaSovaida Morgan, Jenny Walker, Ray Bartlett, Loren Bell, Jade Bremner, Stuart Butler, Sofia Levin, Virginia Maxwell PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD Welcome to Indonesia . 6 JAVA . 58 Malang . 184 Indonesia Map . 8 Jakarta . 62 Around Malang . 189 Purwodadi . 190 Indonesia’s Top 20 . 10 Thousand Islands . 85 West Java . 86 Gunung Arjuna-Lalijiwo Need to Know . 20 Reserve . 190 Banten . 86 Gunung Penanggungan . 191 First Time Indonesia . 22 Merak . 88 Batu . 191 What’s New . 24 Carita . 88 South-Coast Beaches . 192 Labuan . 89 If You Like . 25 Blitar . 193 Ujung Kulon Month by Month . 27 National Park . 89 Panataran . 193 Pacitan . 194 Itineraries . 30 Bogor . 91 Around Bogor . 95 Watu Karang . 195 Outdoor Adventures . 36 Cimaja . 96 Probolinggo . 195 Travel with Children . 52 Cibodas . 97 Gunung Bromo & Bromo-Tengger-Semeru Regions at a Glance . 55 Gede Pangrango National Park . 197 National Park . 97 Bondowoso . 201 Cianjur . 98 Ijen Plateau . 201 Bandung . 99 VANY BRANDS/SHUTTERSTOCK © BRANDS/SHUTTERSTOCK VANY Kalibaru . 204 North of Bandung . 105 Jember . 205 Ciwidey & Around . 105 Meru Betiri Bandung to National Park . 205 Pangandaran . 107 Alas Purwo Pangandaran . 108 National Park . 206 Around Pangandaran . 113 Banyuwangi . 209 Central Java . 115 Baluran National Park . 210 Wonosobo . 117 Dieng Plateau . 118 BALI . 212 Borobudur . 120 BARONG DANCE (P275), Kuta & Southwest BALI Yogyakarta . 124 Beaches . 222 South Coast . 142 Kuta & Legian . 222 Kaliurang & Kaliadem . 144 Seminyak . 231 AKTURER/SHUTTERSTOCK © AKTURER/SHUTTERSTOCK Selo . 146 Kerobokan . 237 Prambanan . 147 Canggu Region . 239 Solo . 150 Canggu . 239 Gunung Lawu . 157 South Bali Tawangmangu . 159 & the Islands . 243 North Coast . 159 Bukit Peninsula . .244 East Java . 174 Sanur . 251 Surabaya . 174 Denpasar . 254 Trowulan . 181 Nusa Lembongan & Islands . 257 GUNUNG BROMO (P197), Pulau Madura . 182 JAVA Contents Ubud Region . 263 Sire . 331 Around Soe . 405 Ubud . 263 Northwest Coast . 331 Kefamenanu . 406 South of Ubud . 278 Senaru . 332 Around Kefamenanu . 407 North of Ubud . 280 Sembalun Valley . 334 Rote . 407 East Bali . .. 280 Tetebatu . .. 334 Nemberala . .. 408 Bangli . 282 Praya . 335 Around Nemberala . 409 Klungkung Kuta . 335 Sumba . 409 (Semarapura) . 282 East of Kuta . .339 Waingapu . 411 Sidemen . .. 282 West of Kuta . 340 East Sumba . 413 Gunung Agung . 283 East Lombok . 341 South Central Sumba . 414 Coast Road Gili Islands . 342 West Sumba . 414 to Kusamba . 285 Gili Trawangan . 344 Padangbai . 285 Gili Meno . 352 Candidasa . 288 MALUKU . 420 Gili Air . .. 356 Amlapura . 290 North Maluku . 422 Sumbawa . 360 Tirta Gangga . 290 Pulau Ternate . 423 West Sumbawa . 360 Amed & the Pulau Tidore . 430 Far East Coast . 294 East Sumbawa . 365 Pulau Halmahera . 431 Tulamben . 296 Komodo & Pulau Ambon . .. 436 Rinca Islands . 369 Central Mountains . 297 Kota Ambon . 437 Komodo . 369 Danau Bratan Area . 298 Southern Leitimur . 442 Rinca . 372 Gunung Batukau Area . 302 Eastern Leihitu . 442 Flores . 372 Gunung Batur Area . 303 Northern & Labuan Bajo . 373 North Bali . 306 Western Leihitu . 443 Manggarai Country . 382 Lovina . .. 306 Lease Islands . 444 Bajawa . 383 Pemuteran . 310 Pulau Saparua . 444 Around Bajawa . 385 Singaraja . 312 Pulau Seram . 446 Riung . 386 Taman Nasional Masohi, Namano Bali Barat . 313 Ende . 387 & Amahai . 446 West Bali . 314 Kelimutu . 389 Northern Seram . 447 Pura Tanah Lot . 314 Moni . 390 Banda Islands . 447 Balian Beach . 316 Paga . 391 Bandaneira . 450 Jembrana Coast . 317 Maumere . 392 Pulau Gunung Api . 454 Waiara . 393 Pulau Banda Besar . 454 NUSA TENGGARA . 320 Wodong . 394 Pulau Hatta . 455 Alor Archipelago . 394 Pulau Ai . 456 Lombok . 322 Kalabahi . 394 Pulau Run . 456 Mataram . 323 Around Kalabahi . 396 Kei Islands . 457 Lembar . 325 West Timor . 398 Tual & Langgur . 457 Southwestern Peninsula . 325 Kupang . 399 Pulau Kei Kecil . 460 Senggigi . .. 327 Around Kupang . 403 Pulau Kei Besar . 463 Soe . 404 ON THE ROAD PAPUA . 464 West Papua . 470 © PHOTOGRAPHY/SHUTTERSTOCK LOWE EDMUND Sorong . 471 Raja Ampat Islands . 472 Manokwari . 480 Around Manokwari . 483 Northern Papua . 484 Jayapura . 484 Sentani . 488 Around Sentani . 489 Pulau Biak . 490 COOKING COURSE (P769), Nabire . .. 494 BALI Baliem Valley . .. 495 Wamena . 496 Teluk Dalam . 539 Lampung . 597 Northeastern Baliem Valley . .. 500 Aceh . 539 Tanjung Setia & Krui . 599 Northwestern Banda Aceh . 541 Bandar Lampung . 600 Baliem Valley . 501 Pulau Weh . 545 Way Kambas Yali Country . 502 Aceh’s West Coast . 549 National Park . 602 Gunung Krakatau . 604 Southern Papua . 504 Banyak Islands . 551 Merauke . 504 Gunung Leuser Bukit Barisan Selatan National Park . 605 Wasur National Park . 506 National Park . 554 Asmat Region . 507 West Sumatra . 557 KALIMANTAN . 606 Korowai . 508 Padang . 558 Pantai Bungus West Kalimantan . 610 & Sungai Pinang . 562 Pontianak . 610 SUMATRA . 509 Mentawai Islands . 563 Singkawang . 616 North Sumatra . 513 Bukittinggi . .. 570 Sintang . 617 Medan . 513 South of Bukittinggi . 574 Putussibau . 618 Bukit Lawang . 519 Danau Maninjau . 575 Sukadana . 620 Tangkahan . 522 Kerinci Valley . 578 Gunung Palung Berastagi & Around . 523 Bengkulu . 583 National Park . 622 Parapat . 527 Riau . 586 Central Kalimantan . 622 Danau Toba . 527 Pekanbaru . 586 Tanjung Puting Sibolga . 533 Dumai . .. 587 National Park . 622 Pulau Nias . 534 Pulau Batam . 588 Pangkalan Bun . 625 Gunung Sitoli . 535 Pulau Bintan . 589 Kumai . 627 Traditional Villages . 536 Jambi . 592 Palangka Raya . 628 Pantai Sorake South Sumatra . 595 Sebangau & Teluk Lagundri . 539 National Park . 631 Palembang . 596 Contents UNDERSTAND South Kalimantan . 632 Mamasa Valley . 688 Indonesia Today . 722 Banjarmasin . 632 Mamasa . 689 History . 725 Kandangan . 635 Central Sulawesi . 690 Culture . 744 Loksado . 636 Tentena . 690 East & North Poso . 692 Arts & Crafts . 753 Kalimantan . 637 Lore Lindu Food & Drink . 762 Balikpapan . .. 638 National Park . 692 Environment . 773 Samarinda . 642 Palu . .. 694 Sungai Mahakam . 645 Donggala & Muller Mountains . 651 Tanjung Karang . 695 Kutai National Park . 651 Luwuk . .. 696 SURVIVAL Berau . 651 Ampana . 696 GUIDE Merabu . 653 Togean Islands . 697 Derawan Archipelago . 654 North Sulawesi . 702 Directory A–Z . 782 Gorontalo . 702 North Kalimantan . .658 Transport . 793 Manado . 704 Health . 800 SULAWESI . 659 Pulau Bunaken & Pulau Siladen . 707 Language . 805 South Sulawesi . .. 662 Tomohon . 711 Index . .. 816 Makassar . 662 Bitung . 713 Malino . .668 Pulau Lembeh & Map Legend . 829 Pantai Bira . .. 669 the Lembeh Strait . 714 Pulau Liukang Loe . 672 Tangkoko-Batuangas Pulau Selayar . 673 Dua Saudara Nature Reserve . 714 Taka Bonerate Islands . .. 673 Southeast Sulawesi . 715 Watampone . 673 Kolaka . 715 Sengkang . 674 Kendari . 716 Pare Pare . 675 Bau Bau . 717 Tana Toraja . 675 Wakatobi Islands . 718 SPECIAL FEATURES Itineraries . 30 Outdoor Adventures . 36 Travel with Children . 52 Culture . 744 Arts & Crafts . 753 Food & Drink . 762 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 30 Itineraries B a l i S e a Munduk •# Gili É Islands •# É BALI É É LOMBOK Ubud •# É f# É •#Mataram É É É •# Seminyak É É •# Bukit •# Peninsula Kuta I N D I A N O C E A N 2 WEEKS Beaches, Bars, Bodies & Bliss Mix the offbeat with the sublime in Indonesia’s heart of tourism. Start in Bali, acclimatising in the resorts, clubs and shops of Seminyak. Dose up on sun at the beach, then explore the perfect little beaches and surf breaks of the Bukit Peninsula. Head north to immerse yourself in the ‘other’ Bali – the culture, temples and rich his- tory of Ubud. Take a cooking course, unwind at a spa, wander the rice paddies and see Bali’s famous traditional dance. Then escape to the misty mountains for treks to water- falls amid coffee plantations in and around Munduk. Next is Lombok. Take the ferry from Bali’s port town of Padangbai to Lombok’s launching pad of Lembar. Head to Kuta for mellow vibes amid the wonderful beaches of south Lombok. Then potter through the rice fields and Hindu temples around Mataram. Ferry from Bangsal to the deservedly celebrated Gili Islands, where seamless beach- es, translucent water and vivid reefs beg for snorkelling. Or if time’s short, catch a fast.