©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Bali, Lombok & Nusa Tenggara

North p253 Central Mountains p312 West Bali p237 p274 East Bali Region p203 Lombok p160 p283 & Southwest South Bali & Nusa Tenggara Beaches the Islands p334 p64 p115

Virginia Maxwell, Mark Johanson, Sofia Levin, MaSovaida Morgan PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD

Welcome to Bali, Lombok KUTA & Batubulan...... 202 & Nusa Tenggara ...... 4 SOUTHWEST Abiansemal...... 202 Bali, Lombok & BEACHES ...... 64 Nusa Tenggara Map...... 6 Kuta & Legian...... 66 Bali, Lombok & Nusa EAST BALI...... 203 ...... 81 Tenggara’s Top 18...... 8 Gianyar...... 206 Kerobokan...... 92 Need to Know...... 18 Klungkung Umalas...... 98 First Time Bali, Lombok (Semarapura)...... 206 & Nusa Tenggara . . . . . 20 Canggu...... 98 Bangli...... 208 Echo Beach...... 104 What’s New...... 22 Sideman...... 209 Pererenan Beach. . . . . 106 If You Like… ...... 23 Gunung Agung...... 211 Month by Month...... 25 Coast Road to Kusamba...... 213 SOUTH BALI & Itineraries ...... 28 Kusamba...... 215 THE ISLANDS. . . . . 115 Activities...... 36 Padangbai...... 216 Travel with Children. . . . 50 Denpasar...... 117 Manggis...... 219 Eat & Drink Like a Local. . . . 53 Sanur...... 124 Candidasa...... 220 Regions at a Glance. . . . 60 Bukit Peninsula ...... 132 Amlapura...... 224 Jimbaran...... 132 ...... 225 Central Bukit...... 135

NORMANONG/SHUTTERSTOCK © Amed & the Balangan Beach...... 136 Far East Coast...... 227 Bingin...... 137 Tulamben...... 234 Padang Padang ...... 139 Northeast Coast...... 236 Ulu Watu ...... 141 Ungasan ...... 143 CENTRAL ...... 144 MOUNTAINS. . . . . 237 Tanjung Benoa...... 147 Gunung Batur Area . . . 239 Nusa Lembongan & Islands...... 149 Gunung Batur...... 239 Nusa Lembongan. . . . . 150 Around Gunung Batur Crater...... 240 Nusa Ceningan...... 156 PURA P277 Danau Batur...... 241 Nusa Penida...... 157 Danau Bratan Area. . . . 243 ...... 245 UBUD REGION . . . . 160 Candikuning...... 245 SONYHERDIANA/SHUTTERSTOCK © Ubud...... 162 Danau Buyan & Bedulu ...... 195 Danau Tamblingan. . . . . 247 North of Ubud...... 196 Munduk...... 248 Sebatu...... 197 Gunung Batukau Area ...... 250 Tegallalang ...... 197 The Antosari Road. . . . . 251 Tampaksiring ...... 197 South of Ubud...... 198 Mas...... 199 NORTH BALI. . . . . 253 Blahbatuh...... 200 Yeh Sanih...... 255 Batuan...... 201 Singaraja...... 255 BALINESE DANCER P416 Sukawati ...... 201 Lovina...... 258 Contents

UNDERSTAND

Seririt...... 266 GILI ISLANDS. . . . 312 Bali, Lombok & Nusa Tenggara Today. . . . . 396 Pemuteran...... 266 Gili Trawangan. . . . . 316 Banyuwedang...... 271 Gili Meno...... 325 History...... 398 Labuhan Lalang...... 271 Gili Air ...... 329 Bali Barat Local Life & Religion. . . . 407 National Park ...... 271 The Arts...... 416 NUSA Architecture ...... 426 WEST BALI ...... 274 TENGGARA. . . . . 334 Environment...... 433 Cemagi...... 276 Sumbawa...... 336 Tabanan...... 276 Jelenga...... 337 South of Tabanan. . . . . 277 Maluk...... 337

North of Tabanan. . . . . 278 Rantung Beach & Around...... 338 Balian Beach...... 278 Sumbawa Besar...... 339 Jembrana Coast...... 280 SURVIVAL Pulau Moyo...... 340 Palasari & GUIDE Belimbingsari...... 282 Gunung Tambora. . . . . 341 Gilimanuk ...... 282 Pantai Lakey...... 342 Sape...... 344 Directory A–Z...... 440 & Transport...... 450 LOMBOK ...... 283 Islands...... 344 Health...... 457 West Lombok ...... 287 ...... 348 Mataram ...... 288 ...... 349 Language...... 462 Ruteng...... 357 Senggigi...... 291 Index...... 472 Southwestern Wae Rebo...... 358 Peninsula...... 296 Bajawa...... 359 Map Legend...... 479 Tanjung Desert...... 296 Riung ...... 362 Gili Gede & the Ende...... 363 Southwest Gilis...... 297 ...... 365 North & Moni...... 365 Central Lombok . . . . . 298 Paga...... 367 Gunung Rinjani...... 299 Maumere...... 368 Sire...... 300 Waiara ...... 369 Northwest Coast ...... 300 Wodong...... 369 Senaru...... 301 Alor Archipelago...... 372 Sembalun Valley...... 301 Kalabahi...... 373 Tetebatu...... 302 SPECIAL West Timor ...... 374 South Lombok ...... 304 Kupang...... 375 FEATURES Kuta ...... 304 Soe...... 379 Bali, Lombok & Nusa Gerupuk...... 309 None...... 380 Tenggara: Off the Ekas ...... 310 Beaten Track...... 34 Kefamenanu...... 381 Selong Blanak...... 310 Temkessi...... 382 Activities...... 36 Rote ...... 383 Best Beaches...... 107 Nemberala...... 383 Local Life & Religion. . . . 407 Sumba ...... 385 The Arts...... 416 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 28

Itineraries É •#Sideman

Ubud •#

•# Mas •# Klungkung (Semarapura) •# Pura É Masceti

Canggu •# •# Kerobokan É •# Seminyak É S E L AT É B A D U N G

Jimbaran Bay •#Jimbaran

É

É Bukit Ulu Watu •# Peninsula

1 WEEK Best of Bali

Seven days will fly by on this trip that covers Bali’s top-drawer sights. Start at a beachside hotel in Seminyak, Kerobokan or Canggu; shop the streets and spend time at the beach. Enjoy a seafood dinner on Jimbaran Bay as part of a day trip to the monkey-filled temple at Ulu Watu. In the east, take the coast road to wild beaches like the one near Pura Masceti, fol- lowed by the town of Klungkung (Semarapura), once the royal seat of Bali’s most important kingdom. Head north up to Sideman, which combines rice terraces with lush river valleys and cloud-shrouded mountains. Then go west to Ubud, the crowning glory on any itinerary. To spoil yourself, stay in one of Ubud’s many hotels with views across rice fields and rivers. Sample the offerings at a spa before you try one of the myriad great restaurants. Bali’s rich culture is most celebrated and most accessible in Ubud and you’ll be capti- vated by nightly dance performances. Check out local craft studios, including the wood- carvers of Mas. Hike through the surrounding rice fields to river valleys, taking a break in museums bursting with paintings. 29 MACIEJMATLAK/SHUTTERSTOCK © PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN It i nerar i es ASIATRAVEL/SHUTTERSTOCK © Above: (p162), Ubud Right: Seminyak Beach (p81) 30

Pulau B A L I S E A Menjangan

•# f# É Pemuteran •# Lovina É

•# É

PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN É É

É Tulamben •# Amed Pura Luhur Coast

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3 WEEKS Bali at a Slow Pace

Find accommodation close to the beach in Kerobokan. Be sure to get to the trendy restaurants and cafes of Canggu before you leave this part of south Bali behind. Maybe you can learn how to surf, or at least brush up on your skills, before you head south to Bingin and its cliff-side inns overlooking the surf. Make the short drive down to Bukit Peninsula’s spiritual centre (and monkey home) Pura Luhur Ulu Watu and explore the secluded beaches at the bottom of Bali, such as Green Bowl Beach. Take a trip through Denpasar and stop at the excellent local restaurants and mu- seum. Next, Bali’s ancient rice terraces will exhaust your abilities to describe green. Sam- ple these in a drive up to the terraces of Jatiluwih followed by the lyrical Pura Luhur Batukau. Make your way over the mountains via the Antosari Road, pausing at a remote hotel on the way. Head west to Pemuteran, where the hotels and resorts define relaxation. Dive or snorkel nearby Pulau Menjangan in Bali Barat National Park. It’s renowned for its and sheer 30m wall. Lovina is a good break on a route around the coast to Tulamben, where scores of people explore the shattered hulk of a WWII freighter underwater. Get some serious chill time on the Amed Coast before the short jaunt to Tirta Gangga and hikes through rice fields and up jungle-clad hills to remote temples. Continue to Padangbai and then take back roads to Ubud. Find your favourite cafe and let the world wander past, or rid yourself of travel kinks at a spa. You might consider staying at one of the iconic family homestays, taking gentle walks through rice fields by day and marvelling at dance per- formances at night. When you’re ready and rested, get a fast boat from Sanur to Nusa Lembongan. This little island has its own buzz, with a string of hotels – from basic to semiposh – lining its sands. It’s a timeless travellers’ scene with a backdrop of excellent surfing and splendid snorkelling and diving. 31

B A L I S E A PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN

Munduk #•

É Gili unung atukau É #• Jatiluwih Islands Sembalun

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I N D I A N O C E A N

3 WEEKS Total Bali & Lombok

You’ll visit six islands and countless beaches on a trip that takes you to the most interest- ing sites and places across Bali, Lombok and the Gilis. Begin your trip at Bingin. Settle back in the sand and let the jet lag vanish. Then move to Canggu for Bali’s hippest scene. Transit through Denpasar for a purely Ba- linese lunch and head up the hill to Ubud to get a taste of traditional Balinese culture over two or three days. Next, visit the Jatiluwih Rice Fields, centuries old rice terraces that have received Unesco World Heritage status in recognition of their ancient rice- growing culture. Next, head west to the village of Munduk, which looks down to the north coast and the sea beyond. Go for a walk in the area and enjoy waterfalls, truly tiny villages, wild fruit trees and the sinuous ribbons of rice paddies lining the hills. Then head south to the wonderful temple of Pura Luhur Batukau and consider a trek up Bali’s second- highest mountain, Gunung Batukau. Recover with some chill-out time on popular Balian Beach, just west. Next, bounce across the waves from Sanur to Nusa Lembongan, the island hiding in the shadow of Nusa Penida. The latter is visible from much of the south and east – it makes a good day trip. Take in the amazing vistas from its cliffs and dive under the waves to check out the marine life. Head to the Gili Islands on the direct boat from Nusa Lembongan for more tranquil time circumnavigating the three islands above and below the idyllic sapphire waters fringing them. Take a boat to Senggigi, but ignore the resorts and head south. Still off the beaten path, the south coast near Lombok’s Kuta has stunning beaches and surf- ing to reward the intrepid. The seldom-driven back roads of the interior will thrill the adventurous and curious, with tiny villages where you can learn about the amazing local handicrafts. Many of these roads travel through the foothills of sacred Gunung Rinjani, the volcanic peak that shelters the lush and remote Sembalun Valley. PIOTR SKIEJKA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

) 141 ) 329 Above: Ulu Watu (p Left: Beach swing, Gili Air (p

WERNERMUELLERSCHELL/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Itineraries

PLAN YOUR TRIP 32 33

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É Canggu •# I N D I A N É O C E A N Kerobokan •# Legian •#

•# It

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OBOK

Gili Islands 1 2 Surfing Bali WEEK in One Week WEEKS

These three little dots of white sand off Ease into a tour of Bali’s best surf in the Lombok can easily occupy your entire trip, Kuta area. The surf break Halfway Kuta with their top-class options for diving, is the best scene for beginners; Legian dining, partying and sunbathing. The ideal Beach has more powerful breaks. North of place to get to grips with island life is Gili Kerobokan, on the northern extremity of Air, where the main beachfront strip is the bay, Batu Bolong (often called Cang- perfect tropical lounging territory. You can gu) has a nice beach with light-coloured while away a day or two doing nothing but sand and a chilled party scene. chilling with a book, taking a cooling dip, Next, head west to classic surfer hang- perfecting your asanas at a school or out Balian Beach, where there are a few feasting on inexpensive fresh seafood. peaks near the mouth of Sungai Balian Next up is Trawangan, where there’s (Balian River). Further up the south much more action. The perfect day here coast of western Bali is a soft left called could start with a morning dive at a site Medewi­ , a point break that can give a such as Shark Point, followed by a healthy long ride right into the river mouth. vegan lunch and an afternoon snooze. End the circuit in south Bali, where Then take a gentle stroll round the sandy surfing sparked tourism on the island. lanes of the island, slipping in a sunset Balangan is a fast left over a shallow reef; cocktail on the west coast. After dinner, Bingin has short but perfect left-hand feel the beat at one of Trawangan’s parties. barrels. Padang Padang’s super-shallow, The final stop is Gili Meno, where, once left-hand reef break is a very demanding you’ve secured the perfect place to stay break that only works over about 6ft from (including at some new upscale choices), mid- to high tide (if you can’t surf tubes, there’s little to do except ponder the sheer backhand or forehand, don’t go out). Ulu desert-isle-ness of the place. If you can drag Watu, the most famous surfing spot in yourself away from the beach, try snorkel- Bali, has about seven different breaks ling out to the underwater sculpture Nest ­(observe where other surfers paddle out or egret-spotting on the inland lake. and follow them). 34 Bali Lombok Nusa Tenggara the Beaten Track

O TOSI & OG I PS B

PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN t a t naga I s

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km e# miles Nembrala •# Nusa Tenggara 35

km e# miles

TB TO TE OST PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN T T GELPG K A OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

Gili Amed Gili Meno •# Gunung Gunung Village Trawangan Gili Air i Islan Danau Rinjani Nangi Gil ds (36m) (30m) •#Pemenang Segara •#GELPG Anak R R •#Amlapura #÷ RGunung Sabiris Mangsit •# (6m) Gunung Rinjani National Park •# Labuhan i Lombok Selat OBOK Lombok Mataram•#

•#Sakra •# Lembar •# Praya a Selat •# Sengkol Atlas I N D I A N O C E A N Kuta ET •# NA Gili TENARA Saya PEEG O B SOTWEST GILIS •# SOT ETL SB T ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 470

Behind the Scenes

SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed- back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy.

my partner Felipe Bascuñán for tolerating my OUR READERS long absences and to my editor Niamh O’Brien Many thanks to the travellers who used for tirelessly ensuring I was OK! the last edition and wrote to us with help- ful hints, useful advice and interesting Sofia Levin anecdotes: Erwin, Willy and Andy – thank you for your Michael Beukema, Alex Boladeras, Catherine Burns, guidance on the road, but most of all, your Kim Cox, Michael Gillespie, Barbara Hardy, Laura friendship. To my husband, Matt, this job would Hartshorne, Linnea Hedlund, Pierre Jaeger, Emily Lois, be impossible without your constant support Mark McKnight, Martina Míková, Jennie Murray, Robert and encouragement, both when I’m away Pilger, Summer Read, Daniel Ribas, Anniek Schellen and by your side. And to my parents (aka my biggest fans), thank you for instilling me with curiosity, appetite and the travel bug from the WRITER THANKS moment I was born. Virginia Maxwell Thanks to Ryan Ver Berkmoes for the Bali brief- MaSovaida Morgan ing, Hanafi for the expert driving and Deepest thanks to the wonderful souls who pro- navigation, and Niamh O’Brien for monitoring vided assistance, insight and companionship­ the safety situation. My support team of Peter throughout my time on Bali: Rob, Margie, Max, and Max Handsaker stayed calm when they Kristy and the Outsite crew; Gigi and Annette; saw the earthquake reports and made regular Ty and Jeff; and especially to my dear brother Skype calls to check up on me. I couldn’t work Bayu for an efficient and unforgettable journey. as a travel writer without them. Mark Johanson ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Thanks to all the people on Lombok and Sum- Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, bawa who steered me in the right direction and Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated helped me to navigate the post-­earthquake World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Clas- islands, even when their personal lives were sification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, in shambles. I owe a debt of gratitude to 11, 1633–44. Rudy Trekker, Gemma Marjaya, Kelly Goldie and Andy Wheatcroft for being fountains of Cover photograph: , ­knowledge along the way. A special thanks to Marco Bottigelli/AWL ©. 471 BEHIND THE SCENES THE BEHIND

Destination Editors McGregor, Maja Vatrić, Simon THIS BOOK Niamh O’Brien, Tanya Parker Williamson This 17th edition of Lonely Senior Product Editor Cartographer Rachel Planet’s Bali, Lombok & Nusa Kate Chapman Imeson Tenggara guidebook was curated by Virginia Maxwell, Product Editor Assisting Book Designer Clara Monitto who also researched and wrote Carolyn Boicos it along with Mark Johanson, Regional Senior Cover Researcher Sofia Levin and MaSovaida ­Cartographer Julie Wibowo Rusli Morgan. The previous edition ­Sheridan Thanks to Andrea Dobbin, was researched and written Book Designer Andi Jones, Claire Naylor, by Ryan Ver Berkmoes and Mazzy Prinsep Karyn Noble, Victoria Smith, curated by Kate Morgan. This Assisting Editors Kate Daly, Angela Tinson, Amanda guidebook was produced by Melanie Dankel, Carly Hall, Lou ­Williamson the following: ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 472

Index

5GX Bali 71 B Berawa Beach 99 Pantai Lawar 338 Bahasa 462-6 Bias Tugal 216 Pantai Lebih 214 Bingin Beach 137 Pantai Masceti 214 A Bajawa 359-61 Blue Lagoon Beach 216 Pantai Mawan 304 Aas 230, 232, 234 Balangan Beach 136-7, Bo'a 384 Pantai Mawi 311 Abiansemal 202 138­ -9, 9, 108-9 Bukit Peninsula 9, 109, Pantai Medewi 280 accessible travel 440 bale 426 132 Pantai Pasir Putih 220 accommodation 10, 431­ -2, Bali Aga people 222 440-2, 462-3, see Bali Arts Festival 26, 118, 421 Canggu 13, 99, 12 Pantai Patra Jasa 66 also individual Bali Barat National Park Crystal Bay Beach 159 Pantai Penimbangan 256 locations 271-3, 435, 272, 261 Double Six Beach 67 Pantai Purnama 214 activities 25-7, 36-49, see 202 Dream Beach 150 Pantai Seger 304 also individual Bali bombings 405 Echo Beach 105 Pantai Selegimpak 150 activities Bali Botanic Garden 245-6 Gili Air 329 Pantai Selong Blanak 311 Air Panas Banjar 265 Bali Kite Festival 128 Gili Meno 325 Pantai Tanjung Sanghyang air pollution 438 Bali Orchid Garden 125 Gili Trawangan 316, 150 Air Sanih 255 Bali Safari Park 214 109, 112 Pantai Ujung 225 air travel 450-2 Bali Sea Turtle Society 67 Green Bowl Beach 143 Pemuteran Beach 266 alcohol 59, 397 Bali Spirit Festival 176 Heaven Beach 310 Pererenan Beach 106 alcohol poisoning 446, 461 Bali starling 434 Impossibles Beach 140 Prancak Beach 99 Alor Archipelago 372-4, 370 Bali Treetop Adventure Jimbaran Beach 132 Pulau Do’o 385 Amed 227-34, 229 Park 246 Jungutbatu Beach 150 Pulau Ndao 385 Amlapura 224-5 balian 413 Kerewe Beach 22 Rantung Beach 338 amusement parks Balian Beach 278-80 Kerobokan Beach 92-3 Sanur Beach 125 5GX Bali 71 Balinese language 466 Kupang 375 Seminyak Beach 81, Bali Safari Park 214 Balinese names 408 Kuta Beach 14, 66, 12, 14, 21, 29 Bali Treetop Adventure bamboo 432 107, 111 Sire 300 Park 246 Bangli 208-9 Kuta (Lombok) 304, 108 Suluban Beach 142, Taman Festival Bali Banutan 230-1, 233 Kuta Reef Beach 67 110-11 124-5 Banyuning 230, 232, 234 Labuan Bajo 349 Sumba 393 Upside Down World 71 Banyuwedang 271 Legian Beach 66 Tanjung Aan 304 Waterbom Park 71 bargaining 21 Lovina 258, 261 Tanjung Pasir 340 animals 114, 154, 433-6, see 417 Maluk 337 Tegalwangi Beach 132-3 also individual species bathrooms 448 Mawan 306 Tuban Beach 67 Antosari Road 251-2 Nelayan Beach 99 Ulu Watu 142, 32 arak 446, 461 batik 422, 422 Nusa Dua 145 Virgin Beach 220 architecture 426-32 Batu Bolong Beach 99 Nusa Lembongan 150 Wodong 369 area codes 447 Batuan 201 Padang Padang Beach bedbugs 461 art galleries, see museums Batubulan 202 139-40, 13 Bedugul 245 & galleries Batur Caldera Geopark 243 Padangbai 216 Bedulu 195-6 arts 200, 416-25, see also Batur Geopark Museum individual arts 240-1 Paga 367 beer 59 courses 37, 173, 200 Bau Nyale Festival 307 Pandawa Beach 144 Belimbingsari 282 Asan Munduk 247 beaches 23, 107-14 Pantai Areguling 304 Belongas Bay 311 ATMs 445 Balangan Beach 136, 9, Pantai Dagong 310 bemos 454 108-9 Pantai Keramas 214 Bena 361-2 Balian Beach 278 Pantai Ketewel 214 Benoa Bay Reclamation Map Pages 000 Batu Bolong Beach 99 Pantai Klotok 214 Project 397 Photo Pages 000 Batubelig Beach 93 Pantai Lakey 342 bicycle travel, see cycling 473 Big Tree Farms 202 ceramics 278 Danau Batur 241-3 dolphins 114, 258-9, 435 Bingin 137-9 ceremonies 411-14 Danau Bratan 243-9, 244 drinks 59, 464 Bio Rocks 270 chemists 458 Danau Buyan 247-8 driving, see car travel bird flu 458 children, travel with 50-2, Danau Tamblingan 247-8 driving licences 454 birds 163, 202, 273, 434-5, 162 dance 15, 191, 416-18, 2, 15 drugs 446 261 child-sex tourism 444 dangers, see safety Dukuh 124 black magic 413 churches 282 dengue fever 459 INDEX climate 18, 25, 26, 27, 442, Blahbatuh 200-1 Denpasar 117-24, 120-1 Blue Lagoon 156 see also individual E regions accommodation 118-19 earthquakes 287, 299, boat travel 451, 452-3  B-G cockfighting 414 activities 118 315, 396 boat trips & cruises courses 118  coffee 59 east Bali 61, 203-36, 204-5 Bali Barat National drinking & nightlife 122 accommodation 203 Park 272 consulates 443 emergency services 123 climate 203 Nusa Lembongan 152-3 cooking courses 36-7 festivals & events 118 food 203 Nusa Tenggara 351 Banjar 197 food 119-22 highlights 204 Boni 384 Gelumpang 225 history 117 travel seasons 203 books 396 Gili Air 331 medical services 123 travel to/from 206 animals & plants 436 Gili Trawangan 319 shopping 122-3 ebo gogo 358 arts 417, 425 Sanur 127-8 sights 117-18 Echo Beach 104-6, budget 19, 54, 440 Singaraja 262 100 travel to/from 123-4 Ekas 310 Bukit Peninsula 9, 109, Tanjung Benoa 147 travel within 124 132-49 Ubud 173 electricity 443 departure tax 450 Bumbangku 309 436 embassies 443 diarrhoea 460 Bunut Bolong 252 costs 19, 54, 440 emergencies 19, 465 disabilities, travellers bus travel 451, 453-4 courses 36-7, see also Ende 363-4 with 440 business hours 445 cooking courses environmental issues 134, art 37, 173, 200 diving 11, 24, 36, 38-41 310, 324, 397, 437-8 diving 41 Alor Archipelago 39, etiquette 21, 319, 410, 411 373, 370 C jewellery 173 events, see festivals & Calabai 341-3 Amed 228 language 118, 171, 173, events Campuan Ridge 176 444 Bali 38-9 exchange rates 19 Candidasa 220-4, 221 music 173 Belongas Bay 311 Candikuning 245-7 textiles 171 courses 41 equipment 39-40 F Canggu 98-104, 100 crafts 421-5, see also ferries, see boat travel individual crafts freediving 22 accommodation 99-102 festivals & events 25-7, 67, Gili Air 329-30 activities 99 credit cards 445 414, see also individual beaches 13, 99, 12 cremation 413-14 Gili Islands 17, 39, 318 festivals & events drinking & nightlife Crocodile Head 341 Gili Meno 325-7, 17 films 396 103-4 cruises, see boat trips & Gili Trawangan 113, fish 114, 436 food 102-3 cruises 316-18 fishing 310 Komodo 39, 113, 346 shopping 22, 104 Crystal Bay Beach 159 Flores 348-72, 371 Kuta (Lombok) 305 sights 99 culture 23-4, 407-9, 416-25 food 14, 21, 53-9, 443, travel to/from 104 currency 444, 445 Labuan Bajo 346, 350-1 14, 55, 58, see also travel within 104 customs regulations 443 Lombok 39 ­cooking courses, canyoning 47, 352 cycling 37-8 Lovina 259, 262 individual locations car travel 447, 454-6 Bali 37-8 Nusa Lembongan 152 children, travel with 52 caves 196, 215, 352, 375 Danau Batur 242 Nusa Penida 11, 113, 152, language 463-4 157, caving 47, 352 Gili Air 331 11 seafood 16 operators 40-1 Cekik 281 Gili Meno 327 freediving 22 Padangbai 217 Ceking Terraces 197 Gili Trawangan 319 Pemuteran 267 cell phones 447-8 Lombok 38, 39 Pulau Menjangan 11, 113, G Celuk 201 Lovina 262 galleries, see museums & 267, 268 Cemagi 276 Nusa Lembongan 153 galleries Pulau Moyo 340 central mountains, Bali 61, Nusa Penida 157 Galungan 27, 26 responsible diving 40 237-52, 238 Ubud 171 418 Rinca 39, 113 accommodation 237 gardens, see parks & safety 460 climate 237 gardens D Sanur 128 food 237 Wisnu Kencana daggers 425 Senggigi 291-2 highlights 238 Cultural Park 136, 2 Dalam Loka 339 Tulamben 113, 234-5 travel seasons 237 gay travellers 444 Dalem Bedaulu 196 dogs 194, 434 travel to/from 239 Gedong Kirtya Library 256 474 Gelgel 209 healers 182, 413 insurance Kuningan 27 Gelumpang 225 health 457-61 car 455 Kupang 375-9 290 heat exhaustion 460 health 457 Kusamba 215 geography & geology 433 heatstroke 460 travel 443 Kuta (Bali) 60, 64-81, 65, Gerupuk 306, 309-10 hepatitis 459 internet access 444 68-9 Gianyar 206 herons 163 internet resources accommodation 64, 71-2

INDEX INDEX giardiasis 460 hiking 36, 41-3 culture 407, 420 activities 70-1 beaches 14, 66-7, 12, 14, Gili Air 329-33, 330, 32 Amed 228 health 457-8 107, 111 Gili Asahan 297 Bali 42 planning 19 climate 64

G- Bali Barat National Park responsible travel 433  Gili Gede 22, 297-8 drinking & nightlife

L 272-3  Gili Islands 62, 312-33, 313 Ubud 412 13, 78-9 Candidasa 220-1 accommodation 312 irrigation 276, 415 emergencies 80 Danau Tamblingan 247 climate 312 Islam 410 food 64, 75-6 food 312 equipment 43 Islamic Center Nusa highlights 65 highlights 313 Flores 42 Tenggara Barat 288 medical services 80 safety 314 Gili Trawangan 319 itineraries 28-35 shopping 79-80 travel seasons 312 Gunung Agung 212-13 sights 67-70 Gunung Batukau 250-1 travel to/from 314-15 J travel seasons 64 travel within 315-16 Gunung Batur 239-40, Jasri Bay 224 travel to/from 66, 80-1 242 Gili Layar 297 Jatiluwih 250 travel within 66, 81 Gunung Inerie 359 Gili Meno 325-8, 326 Jelenga 337 Kuta (Lombok) 304-9, Gunung Mbeliling 352 , Gili Trawangan 316-25, jellyfish 461 305 108 Gunung Rinjani 299-300, Jembrana Coast 280-2 Kuta cowboys 76 317, 320 301-2 Jemeluk 230, 233 accommodation 319-22 Gunung Tambora 341-2 jewellery 173, 425 activities 316-19 L beaches 316, 109, 112 365 Jimbaran 16, 132-5, 133, 16 Labuan Bajo 346, 349-57 courses 319 Joshua District 277 Labuhan Aji 340 drinking & nightlife 42, 345 juice 59 Labuhan Lalang 271 324-5 Lombok 42, 44 Jungutbatu 150 Labuhan Lombok 302 food 322-4 Moni 366 Lange, Mads 67 medical services 325 Munduk 248 K languages 462-6 shopping 325 Nusa Lembongan 153 Kalabahi 373-5 courses 118, 171, 173, sights 316 Pauleni to Belaraghi 361 Kalibukbuk 258, 263, 264 444 travel to/from 325 Rinca 42, 347 Kampung Komodo 344 Lebaran Topat 290 Gilimanuk 282 safety 43 kayaking 305, 352 legal matters 444 Goa Gajah 196 Senggigi 293 417 Legian 66-81, 68-9 golf 146, 246 Sumbawa 42 Kecak Fire Dance 418 accommodation 72-4 government 415 Tirta Gangga 225-6 Kefamenanu 381-2 activities 70-1 green initiatives 324 409-10 Kelimutu 365 beaches 66-7 Green School 202 history 398-406 Kerambitan 278 drinking & nightlife 78-9 Gunung Agung 211-13 HIV 459 Kerobokan 92-8, 82-3 food 76-7 Gunung Batukau 250-1 holidays 445-6 accommodation 93-4 medical services 80 Gunung Batur 239-41, hot springs activities 93 shopping 79-80 242, 240 Air Panas Banjar 265 beaches 92-3 sights 67-70 197-8, 174-5 Bajawa 359 drinking & nightlife 96 travel to/from 80-1 Gunung Kelatakan 272 Bena 362 food 94-6 travel within 81 Gunung Lempuyang 226 Danau Batur 242 shopping 96-7 417 Gunung Rinjani 299-300, Gunung Rinjani 299 travel to/from 97-8 Lehan 230, 231-2 301-2 Moni 366 travel within 98 LGBT+ travellers 444 Gunung Seraya 228 Yeh Sanih 255 Kerobokan jail 406 Liberty shipwreck 234, Gunung Tambora 341-2 Hu’u 342 Kiadan Pelaga 246 235, 112-13 Kintamani 243 Lingko Fields 359 kite-flying 26, 128, H 26 Lipah 230, 231 handicrafts 421-5 I kitesurfing 47, 125, 342 literature, see books ikat 380, 422 hawkers 446 Klungkung 206-8, 207 Lombok 62, 283-311, immigration 448-9, 450 Komodo 344-7 284-5 Indonesian Independence Komodo dragons 348, 16 accommodation 283 Day 27 Komodo National Park 16, climate 283 Map Pages 000 Indonesian language 462-6 345, , , 16 43 370-1 food 283 Photo Pages 000 infectious diseases 458-60 kris 425 475 highlights 284 Gunung Kawi 197-8, N Bali Botanic Garden history 286 174-5 national parks & nature 245-6 travel seasons 283 Memorial Wall 67 reserves, see also parks Bali Orchid Garden 125 travel to/from 286 Puputan Monument 208 & gardens Bali Treetop Adventure travel within 287 stone pillar 125 Bali Barat National Park Park 246 271-3, 435, 261 lontar books 256 mosques Garuda Wisnu Kencana Gunung Rinjani National Cultural Park 136, 2 Islamic Center Nusa INDEX Lovina 258-66, 259, 261 Tenggara Barat 288 Park 299-300 Puputan Square 118 Masjid Kuno Bayan Kelimutu National Park Taman Tirta Gangga 225 365 M Beleq 300-1 Taman Ujung 224 Komodo National Park  L-P magazines 423 mosquito bites 459 Ubud Monkey Forest 166, 16, 345, 16, 43, 370-1  malaria 459 motorcycle travel 454-6 51, 174 scams 447 Taman Wisata Alam Malean Sampi 290 Kerandangan 293 Pasola 25 Munduk 22, 247, 248-9 Maluk 337-8 Nemberala 383-4 passports 448-9, 450 museums & galleries Manggis 219-20 Ngada people 360 Ped 158-9 Mangsit 291 Agung Rai Museum of Pejaten 278 Art 163, 166 nightlife 23, see also manta rays 435, individual locations Pejeng 179 112 Batur Geopark Museum Pemandian Kuda Desa 236 marine life 114, 154, 435-6, 240-1 Nirartha 280 114 BIASA ArtSpace 81 None 380-1 Pemuteran 266-70 markets 57 Dream Museum Zone 67 north Bali 61, 253-73, 254 Penulisan 239 Candikuning 246 Kody & Ko 91 accommodation 253 Pererenan Beach 106 Canggu 22, 104 Komaneka Art Gallery climate 253 Peresean 290 Denpasar 122 163 food 253 Petulu 163 Ende 363 Lembaga Studi & highlights 254 pharmacies 458 Gianyar 206 Pelestarian Budaya travel seasons 253 Pita Maha 420 Jimbaran 133 Sumba 391 travel to/from 255 planning, see also Kalabahi 373 Mandala Mathika Nuabari 367 ­individual regions 276 Maubesi 382 Nusa Ceningan 156-7 activities 36-49 Museum Buleleng 256 Semarapura 207-8 Nusa Dua 144-7, 145 Bali, Lombok & Nusa Museum Gedung Arca Nusa Lembongan 150-6, 151 Tenggara basics 18-19 Seririt 266 179 Sukawati 201 Nusa Penida 157-9 Bali, Lombok & Nusa Museum Le Mayeur 124 Tenggara’s regions Sumbawa Besar 339 Nusa Tenggara 62, 334-94, Museum Manusa Yadnya 335 60-2 West Timor 380 279 accommodation 334 budgeting 19, 54, 440 marriage 413, 412 Museum Manusia climate 334 calendar of events 25-7 Mas 199 ­Purbakala Gilimanuk 281 highlights 335 family travel 50-2 Masjid Nurul Huda Gelgel travel seasons 334 first-time travellers 20-1 209 Museum Negeri Propinsi Bali 117-18 travel to/from 336 food & drink 53-9 Maslete 81 Museum Nusa Tenggara travel within 336 internet resources 19 massage 44, 118, 169-70, Timur 375-6 292-3, 319, 351-2 Nyepi 414 itineraries 28-35 Museum Lukisan repeat visitors 22 Mataram 288-91, 289 162-3 travel seasons 18, 25, Maubesi 382 Museum Rudana O 26, 27 Maumere 368-9 199-200 offerings 414, 423, 24 plants 273, 436-7 Mayura Water Palace 288 Museum Semarajaya ogoh-ogoh 414 police, traffic 455 measures 448 208 ojek 456 pollution 438 Medewi 280 Neka Art Museum 167 opening hours 445 Ponjok 124 medical services 458 Neka Gallery 163 orphanages, fake 447 population 397, 407-9 memorials, see Nyoman Gunarsa postal services 445 ­monuments & Museum 208 ­memorials Pasifika Museum 144 P Poto 339 mobile phones 447-8 Pranoto’s Art Gallery 196 Padang Padang 139-41, 13 pottery 278 monasteries 258 Setia Darma House of Padangbai 216-19, 216 prickly heat 460 money 19, 444-5 Mask & Puppets 199 Paga 367-8 processions 9, 8-9 Symon Studios 255 moneychangers 445 painting 419-21 Proyek Penyu 266-7 Taman Wedhi Budaya 118 scams 447 Palasari 282 public holidays 445-6 Threads of Life Moni 365-7 Pancasari 247 Pulaki 267 ­Indonesian Textile Arts Pancasila 341-2 Pulau Menjangan 113, 267, monuments & memorials Center 192 268, 113 Bajra Sandhi Monument Tonyraka Art Lounge 199 Pantai Lakey 342-4 Pulau Moyo 22, 340-1 117 music 418 parks & gardens 436-7, see also national parks & Pulau Satonda 341 Garuda Wisnu Kencana courses 173 Cultural Park 136 nature reserves Pulau Serangan 124 476 puppets 192, 199, 419 sights 124-5 Labuan Bajo 346, 350-1 Kuta (Lombok) 305-6 Pupuan 251, 252 travel to/from 131-2 Labuhan Aji 341 Lombok 48, 306 Pura Besakih 212, 213, 212 Sape 344 Lombok 39 Lovina 259 215 Sasak cuisine 56 Nusa Lembongan 152 Mawi 48, 306 Pura Luhur Ulu Watu 17, Sasak language 466 Padangbai 217 Medewi 46, 280 141-2, 17, 428 Sasak people 290, 308 Pemuteran 267 Nusa Ceningan 156

INDEX INDEX Pura Tanah Lot 277, 2 Sawan 257 Pulau Menjangan 267, Nusa Dua 46, 146 Pura Ulun Danu Bratan 245 scams 447 268 Nusa Lembongan 46, Puri Agung Karangasem 224 scratches 461 Pulau Satonda 341 111, 150-2

P-T Puri Agung Semarapura 207 sea turtles 67, 114, 435-6 Senggigi 291-2 Padang Padang 47, 13  Puri Anyar Kerambitan 278 seafood 16 Tulamben 234-5, 112-13 Pantai Lakey 342  seaweed 156 Soe 379-80 Rantung Beach 338 Sebatu 197 south Bali 60, 115-59, 116 Rote 49 R Sanur 47 rabies 459 Selang 230, 232 accommodation 115 Seminyak 85 rafting 43-4, 171 Selong Blanak 310-11 climate 115 Serangan 47 Rantung Beach 338-9 Semarapura, see food 115 ­Klungkung Sumba 387, 393 rashes 461 highlights 116 Sembalun Valley 299, 301-2 Sumbawa 49, 46 Ratenggaro 393-4 travel seasons 115 Seminyak 15, 60, 81-92, Supersuck 111, 337 recycling 234 travel to/from 117 82-3 Tanjung Desert 48, 111, reefs 270 spas 10, 44, 10 accommodation 85-7 296-7, 110 religion 397, 409-11 Candidasa 220 beaches 81, 21, 29 Canggu 99 Ulu Watu 47-8, 111, responsible travel 433, 434 141, 142 drinking & nightlife Gili Air 331 rice cultivation 415, 437 89-90 swimming safety 447 Kerobokan 93 rice dishes 54 entertainment 90 Kuta 71 Rinca 347-9 food 87-9 Rinjani, see Gunung Rinjani Labuan Bajo 351-2 T medical services 92 Tabanan 276-7 rituals 411-14 Lovina 262 safety 92 Taman Festival Bali 124-5 Riung 362-3 Sanur 127 shopping 90-2 Taman Wedhi Budaya 118 road rules 455 Seminyak 84-5 sights 81-4 Taman Wisata Alam road safety 447, 455 Senggigi 292-3 travel to/from 92 ­Kerandangan 293 Rote 383-5 Tanjung Benoa 147 Senaru 301 Taman Wisata Tetebatu 302 Ruteng 357-8 Ubud 169-70 Senggigi 291-6, 292 stings 461 Tambolaka 390-2 Seririt 266 stone carving 425 Tampaksiring 197-8 S Seventeen Islands street names 86 Tanjung Benoa 147-9, 148 362 safety 446-7, see also subak 276, 415 Tanjung Desert 48, 111, ­individual locations sex tourism laws 444 Subuk 251 296-7, 110 boat travel 452 shadow puppets 192, Sukawati 201 taxis 456 children, travel with 52 199, 419 Sumba 385-94, 370 Tegallalang 197 hiking 43 sharks 114, 435 Sumbawa 302, 336-44 Tejakula 236 road 447, 455 shopping, see also telephone services 447-8 individual locations Sumbawa Besar 339-40 swimming 447 Teluk Terima 273 language 465 sunburn 461 sambal 54, 56 Temkessi 382-3 Sidemen 209-11 Supersuck 111, 337 Sampalan 158 temple festivals 67 Sikka 365 surfing 36, 44-9 Sanda 251 temples 23, 428-31 Singaraja 255-8 Balangan 45, 136, 9 Sanghyang 418 Gunung Kawi 197-8, Sire 300 Bali 13, 44-8, 45 Sangsit 256 174-5 skin problems 461 Balian 45 Sanur 124-32, 126 Gunung Kawi Sebatu 197 smoking laws 448 Batu Bolong 45 accommodation 128-9 Makam Jayaprana 271 snorkelling 17, 24, 36, 38-41 Bingin Beach 45, 137 activities 125, 127 Tempuyang Amed 228 Ekas 48-9, 310 courses 127-8 226 Bali 38-9 equipment 49 drinking & nightlife 131 Pura Batu Bolong 291 Crocodile Head 341 Gerupuk 48, 309 food 129-31 Pura Batumejan 99 equipment 39-40 Gili Air 331 history 132 Pura Batur 241 Gili Air 329-30 Gili Islands 49 medical services 131 Pura Beji 256 Gili Islands 17, 39, 298, Gili Trawangan 319 shopping 131 Pura Besakih 212, 213, 329 Impossibles Beach 45 212 Gili Meno 325-7 Jelenga 337 Pura Bias Tugal 145 Map Pages 000 Gili Trawangan 316-18 Kuta (Bali) 45-6, 70-1, Pura Bukit Mentik 241 Photo Pages 000 Komodo 345, 346 111 Pura Bukit Tageh 209 477 Pura Dalem Agung 166-7 Pura Taman Saraswati safety 194 Air Terjun Tiu Kelep 301 Pura Dalem Balangan 136 162, 29 shopping 192-4 Air Terjun Tiu Pupas 300 Pura Dalem Jagaraga Pura Tanah Lot 277, 2 sights 162-9 Air Terjun Yeh Mampeh 256 Pura 198, 26 tourist offices 195 236 Pura Dalem Penetaran tours 173 Banyu Wana Amertha Waterfalls 248 Ped 158 241 travel seasons 160 Banyumala Twin Pura Dalem Pura Ulun Danu Bratan travel to/from 195 INDEX ­Penunggekan 209 245 ­Waterfalls 248 travel within 195 Pura Dalem Prancak 99 Pura Ulun Siwi 133 Mata Jitu Waterfall 340 walking tours 172, 172 Pura Dalem Sidan 206 Vihara Dharmayana Munduk Waterfall 248 Ubud Monkey Forest 166,  T-Y Pura Dasar Batuan 201 Temple 70 Pujungan 252 51, 174  Sekumpul Waterfall Pura Desa Ubud 163, 174 Tenganan 222 Ubud Palace 162 257, 260 Pura Erjeruk 214 Tetebatu 302-3 Ubud Writers & Readers Singsing Dua 258 Pura Gede Luhur Batu textiles 201, 339, 422-4 Festival 27, 176 kulit 192, 199, 419 Ngaus 276 courses 171 Ujung 231 weather 18, 25, 26, 27, 442, Pura Gegar 144 theft 446-7 Ulu Watu 141-3, 138-9, 32 see also individual Pura Gili Kencana 268 Tibubiyu 278 Umalas 98 regions Pura Goa Lawah 215 ticks 461 Ungasan 143-4 weaving 422-4 Pura Gunung Lebah 169 Tihingan 208 Upside Down World 71 websites, see internet Pura Jagat Natha 257 time 18, 448 resources Usaba Sambah Festival 222 Pura Jagatnatha 118 Timor-Leste 377 Weekuri Lagoon 390 Pura Kahyangan Jagat tipping 21 weights 448 200-1 Tirta Gangga 225-7 V Wektu Telu 300, 411 Pura Kebo Edan 179 toilets 448 vacations 445-6 west Bali 62, 274-82, 275 209 tourism 66, 397 vaccinations 458 accommodation 274 Pura Lempuyang 22, 226 tourist information 448 vegan travellers 56 climate 274 Pura Lingsar 288 tours 41 vegetarian travellers 56 food 274 Pura Luhur Batukau 250 touts 446 visas 18, 377, 448-9 highlights 275 Pura Luhur Ulu Watu 17, train travel 451 volcanoes 433 travel seasons 274 141-2, 17, 428 travel to/from Bali, Gunung Agung 211-13 travel to/from 276 Pura Maduwe Karang ­Lombok & Nusa Gunung Inerie 359 West Timor 374-83 255 ­Tenggara 450-1 Gunung Mbeliling 352 wi-fi 444 118 travel within Bali, Lombok Gunung Rinjani 299-300 wildlife sanctuaries Pura Mas Suka 143 & Nusa Tenggara 451-6 Gunung Tambora 341-2 Bali Bird Park 202 Pura Masceti (Masceti trekking, see hiking Kelimutu 365 Bali Reptile Park 202 Beach) 214 Tuban 74, 77, 74 volunteering 157-8, 449 windsurfing 125, 127 Pura Masceti (Seminyak)­ Tukad Bangkung Bridge wine 59 84 246 Wodong 369-72 Pura Meru 288 Tulamben 113, 234-6, W women, Balinese 409 Pura Pancering Jagat 241 112-13 Wae Rebo 358-9 women travellers 449 Pura Penataran 280 Turtle Island 124 Waiara 369 health 461 Pura Penataran Agung turtles 67, 266-7, 435-6 Waikabubak 389-90 woodcarving 193, 424 212 typhoid 459-60 Waingapu 385-8 working spaces 22 Pura Penataran Sasih 179 Wainyapu 394 Pura Petitenget 81, 84 walks 176, see also hiking Pura Ponjok Batu 255 U Wallace Line 435 Y Pura Pulaki 267 Ubud 11, 61, 160-95, 161, Wanokaka 392-3 Yeh Gangga 278 Pura Penulisan 164-5, 168-9, 5, 11 waste 438 Yeh Pulu 195-6 239 accommodation 160, water, drinking 177, 460 Yeh Sanih 255 176-83 Pura Puseh Batuan 201 water usage & pollution yoga 49 Pura Puseh Desa activities 169-71 438 Amed 228 ­Batubulan 202 children, travel with 162 Waterbom Park 71 Gili Air 331 Pura Puseh Desa climate 160 waterfalls Gili Meno 327 ­Blahbatuh 201 courses 171-3 Air Terjun Gangga 300 Kerobokan 93 Pura Pusering Jagad 179 drinking & nightlife Air Terjun Gitgit 256 Kuta (Lombok) 305 189-92 Pura Rambut Siwi 280 Air Terjun Jukut 302 Sanur 127 festivals & events 176 Pura Sakenan 124 Air Terjun Kelelawar 302 Seminyak 84 food 22, 160, 183-9 Pura Samuan Tiga 196 Air Terjun Oehala 379 Ubud 170-1 Pura Segara 214 highlights 161 Air Terjun Sindang Pura Silayukti 216 history 162 Gila 301 internet access 194 Air Terjun Singsing 258 279, 24 medical services 194-5 Air Terjun Tanggedu 386 478 NOTES ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 479

Map Legend

Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Gate Walking Tour detour Sikh Hut/Shelter Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lighthouse Winery/Vineyard Lookout Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Mountain/ International Other Sight Oasis State/Province Park Disputed Activities, Pass Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Picnic Area Marine Park Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff Diving Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Population Course/Tour Capital (National) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (State/Province) River, Creek Skiing City/Large Town Intermittent River Snorkelling Town/Village Canal Surfing Water Swimming/Pool Transport Walking Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing Border crossing Reef Other Activity Bus Cable car/Funicular Areas Sleeping Cycling Airport/Runway Sleeping Ferry Camping station Beach/Desert Hut/Shelter Monorail Cemetery (Christian) Parking Eating Petrol station Cemetery (Other) Eating Subway station Glacier Taxi Drinking & Nightlife Train station/Railway Mudflat Drinking & Nightlife Tram Park/Forest Cafe Underground station Other Transport Sight (Building) Entertainment Sportsground Entertainment Swamp/ Shopping Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

AOUR beat-up old STORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Virginia Maxwell Ubud Region, East Bali Although based in Australia, Virginia spends at least half of her year updating Lonely Planet destination coverage across the globe. The Mediterranean is her major area of interest – she has covered Spain, Italy, Tur- key, Syria, Lebanon, Israel, Egypt, Morocco and Tunisia for Lonely Planet – but she also covers Bali, Finland, Armenia, the Netherlands, the USA and Australia. Follow her @maxwellvirginia on Instagram and Twitter.

Mark Johanson Lombok, Mark grew up in Virginia and has called five differ- ent countries home over the last decade while circling the globe reporting for British newspapers (The Guardian), American magazines (Men’s Journal) and global media outlets (CNN, BBC). When not on the road, you’ll find him gazing at the Andes from his current home in Santiago, Chile. Follow his adventures at www.markjohanson.com.

Sofia Levin A Melbourne-based food and travel journalist, Sofia believes that eating in a country other than one’s own is the simplest way to understand a culture. She has a stomach of steel and the ability to sniff out local haunts. Aside from trawling Melbourne as the Lonely Planet local, she also co-authors guidebooks and writes for Fairfax newspapers and travel magazines. When she’s not travelling or eating, Sofia runs copywriting and social-media company Word Salad and spreads smiles with her Insta-­famous poodle, @lifeofjinkee. Find her on Instagram and Twitter (@sofiaklevin).

MaSovaida Morgan Bali MaSovaida is a travel writer and multimedia storyteller whose wanderlust has taken her to more than 40 countries and all seven continents. Previously, she was Lonely Planet’s Destination Editor for South America and Antarctica for four years, and worked as an editor for newspapers and NGOs in the Middle East and the United Kingdom. Follow her on Instagram @MaSovaida.

Published by Lonely Planet Global Limited CRN 554153 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona- 17th edition – Jul 2019 ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the ISBN 978 1 78657 510 4 accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum © Lonely Planet 2019 Photographs © as indicated 2019 extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in Singapore All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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