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Saturday, 10 am–5 pm 2015 2–NovemberJune 14, Closed Sunday, Monday, and legal holidays Admission is free. fitnyc.edu/museum Museum information line: 212 217.4558

Global Fashion Capitals June 2–November 14, 2015 Organized by Ariele Elia and Elizabeth Way exhibitions.fitnyc.edu/global-fashion-capitals #FashionCapitals #FITmuseum

This exhibition was made possible thanks to the generosity of the

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Christopher Kane, dress, silk organza, fall 2014, London. Cover: Lisa Folawiyo, dress, cotton blend, spring 2015, Lagos. | Photograph by Yossi Michaeli. All other photographs MFIT. Global Fashion Capitals Fashion Global aris, recognized as the world’s okyo emerged as a fashion center during Patricia Bonaldi’s vibrant colors and fashion capital since the 18th the 1980s, when avant-garde designers lush textures attract buyers in fifteen Pcentury, was joined during Tlaunched the “Japanese fashion countries. Within the last decade, the late-20th century by New York, revolution.” Although the most influential Mexico City’s fashion industry has grown Milan, and London. These cities Japanese designers have always shown in Paris, with its economy. Carla Fernandez and are now the four major centers of Tokyo is often considered to be the world’s Ricardo Seco incorporate the work of global fashion. However, during “fifth fashion capital.” By the 1990s, a cohort indigenous Mexican artisans into their the last decade, globalization has of designers from Antwerp made an impact sportswear designs. created a polycentric fashion system. during Paris fashion week, leading to a higher Hundreds of cities worldwide have profile for Belgian fashion. frican cities are more recent begun hosting fashion weeks in players in the global fashion hopes of attracting international In recent years, several cities in northern Aindustry. Lamine Kouyaté of press. Global Fashion Capitals Europe have gained traction as fashion cities, Xuly Bët, a Mali-born designer based has selected sixteen of the most including Berlin, Stockholm, and Copenhagen. in Paris, brought early recognition interesting cities and features one Marina Hoermanseder’s sculptural fashions to African designers. Johannesburg to three designers from each city. have put Berlin on the map, while Kilian fashion emerged after apartheid ended in These designers create exciting new Kerner incorporates Berlin’s music and film 1994. The city is home to many diverse styles that merge the local with the scene into his work. In the Nordic region, ethnicities, and styles range from Clive global to achieve internationally Stockholm and Copenhagen are dual fashion Rundle’s intellectual and avant-garde appealing fashions. capitals. Distancing themselves from mid- designs to Stoned Cherrie’s Afro-urban century Scandinavian modern style, designers street wear. In Lagos, Nigeria’s booming The Parisian fashion system, fueled such as Ann-Sofie Back and Henrik Vibskov economy has helped support designers, Cristóbal Balenciaga, cocktail dress, silk by the city’s historical focus on BACK, ensemble, cotton and synthetic, are known for androgynous, edgy clothing, Manish Arora, ensemble, cotton jersey and such as Amaka Osakwe of Maki Oh faille, 1959, Paris. women’s clothing and luxury goods, spring 2015, Stockholm. designed for city life. silk, spring 2006, New Delhi. and Lisa Folawiyo, who incorporate has set the model for other cities. locally made African fabrics into their Parisian haute couture inspired Despite political and economic unrest in internationally appealing clothes. worldwide trends from the mid- Russia and Ukraine, their cities continue to 19th to the mid-20th centuries produce innovative fashions. In Kiev, Ukrainian Seoul has risen as one of Asia’s most and “designer” fashion is still styles range from Anna K’s whimsical fashions exciting fashion capitals during the last inseparable from the image of Paris. to street culture-inspired designs by Anton decade. The South Korean government Belinskiy. Of Russia’s two fashion cities, prioritizes fashion as a cultural export, New York and Milan rose as fashion St. Petersburg is creative and daring, while and brands such as LIE SANGBONG capitals based on innovative ready- Moscow style is refined and opulent. and Big Park are rapidly breaking into to-wear design supported by strong the international fashion scene. manufacturing bases. During the Although Istanbul is a fashion newcomer, its Nazi occupation of Paris, New York rich culture provides designers with a wealth of India and China have both developed briefly gained attention designing inspiration. Arzu Kaprol, for example, is known fashion industries from strong sportswear on its own. During the for her sharp tailoring. Meanwhile, in Madrid, manufacturing bases. In recent years, 1970s, both New York and Milan Agatha Ruiz de la Prada is known for vibrant Mumbai has eclipsed New Delhi challenged Paris. Building from colors and quirky themes. as India’s fashion capital, creating Italy’s tradition of fine textiles, contemporary fashions as opposed to Milan’s designers became known for In Australia, Sydney style is regarded as traditional, intricately embellished looks. finely crafted ready-to-wear. sporty and sexy, while Melbourne is more China’s flourishing economy fuels its sophisticated. Both cities’ designers draw indigenous fashion industry. Shanghai “Swinging London” became famous inspiration from aspects of Australia’s culture and Beijing compete as China’s top- during the 1960s for its exciting, and environment, ranging from “bush tier fashion centers, followed by many youth-oriented fashions and street clothing” to surf wear. second-tier cities. Uma Wang and Masha styles. London’s creative fashion Ma expand Shanghai’s influence by industry continues to be led by During the 1990s, São Paulo rose as Latin presenting their distinctive collections in small, independent, innovative America’s fashion capital. Alexandre Milan and Paris. labels like the ones that established Herchcovitch captured the attention of the Prada, ensemble, wool, plastic, and fleece, Alexandre Herchcovitch, jumpsuit, glass Big Park, dress, synthetic and cotton denim, international press with work inspired Ariele Elia and Elizabeth Way, curators fall 2007, Milan. the city’s experimental character. beads, spring 2007, São Paulo. spring 2015, Seoul. by Brazilian street culture. Today, Global Fashion Capitals Fashion Global