The East London Fashion Cluster

Draft Strategy and Action Plan

February 2017 2 / 3 The East London Fashion Cluster February 2017February Plan Action and Strategy Draft Fashion Cluster London The East Photography4 / 5 Thomas Zanon-Latcher The East London Fashion Cluster . cinPa nevnin 54 61 49 Appendix 5 Technical process stage four steps: Next 4.3 interventions Plan Action 4.2 Cluster Fashion London East 4.1 the Creating 3.6 Developing the proposition for 40 40 28 plan 4 Action 27 Cluster Fashion 33 London East for proposition the 3.6 Developing 3.5 studies case capital fashion 3.4 Competitive and – international perspective indings interview and group Focus 3.3 businesses fashion for support Existing 3.2 22 Valley Lea Upper and London East in sector 3.1 fashion The Contents pedxE-Cs td nig 75 73 74 71 72 65 References 80 indings study E-Case Appendix participants group D–focus Appendix data C-Baseline Appendix design fashion of contribution the deining for statement Method B-Methodology Appendix Activity Fashion A–Mapping Appendix 1 . iinsaeetfrEs odnFsinCutr 8 2 Cluster Fashion London East for 1.1 statement Vision . ento ffsinidsr 14 2.6 industry fashion of 2.5 Deinition . C sactls 11 11 13 2.4 Cluster Fashion London East an for Proposals 2.3 LCF acatalyst 2.2 as commission the to 2.1 Introduction 3 Baseline Executive Executive Strategic Strategic Rationale Rationale Global Global Analysis Analysis 36

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6 / 7 1 EXECUTIVE SUMMARYThe East London Fashion Cluster The vision for the East London Fashion Cluster is of a21 of is Cluster Fashion London East the for vision The face a real risk of displacement, and with it their dislocation from a local wo a local from dislocation their it with and displacement, of risk areal face busin fashion Existing premises. business safeguard to and housing of incre to need the between conlict the exacerbated has economy knowledge secto other of success The skills. and inance workspace, to access around i structural of arange faces London East city, the of rest the with common in But, capital. ofother centres knowledge it by accelerated be could London East in sector fashion the of rebirth the how intereste were parties both as (GLA), Authority London Greater LCFby and comm was study The growth. to barriers the away clear and growth accelerate Cl Fashion London East the organisation, adedicated of establishment the how see to and trends; these of some LCF’s amplify how might move explore to fa of revival perceived the understand to particular in and issues, these therefor was work of piece this of ayear. purpose The trillion US$3 estimated agloba in UK’s participation the of fulcrum the is It capital. fashion world areco and industry, UK the of centre the is London output. manufacturing UK of retai all of 22.2% represents it billion, £28 of output annual With sector. U the of potential and scope scale, the is understood well less documented; particula growth, economic driving in industries creative of role The reversing amanufacturing, of trend of decline. decades re-emerge the witnessing already are Valley that Lea Upper the and London corri production emerging and existing catalyse to base talent a global th in business fashion in investment for destination anew and innovation environm new awholly develop to opportunity the LCF’s triggered has move succe the of spite in deprivation, economic and social continuing of area i CED that outcomes social and educational economic, participation, pos the to contribute to College the on aduty places also It responsibility. busines research, education, fashion in leader aglobal as position its op afantastic is It campus. new, purpose-built one into sites existing six consol development the Games, Paralympic and 2012 Olympic London the of Park Olympic Elizabeth Queen the (CED) on District Education Cultural develop the of part as London East to moving is (LCF) Fashion of College London 2050. by capital fashion creative world undisputed the be to London g the lay and ageneration skip can industry fashion the how out sets report This gro own its for solutions based soundly yet innovative forward bring can and o its understands it demonstrate together, come to industry fashion the grea no be will there means trade world of patterns changing and technology o disruption current The sectors. other in applications wider have will di in innovations of a‘pull through’ stimulate will sectors technology fa IP. of together Bringing generation in strengths its on focus to economy UK’s kn the of heart the in location its on capitalise can London East in Fashion acros innovations propose and analysis chain avalue undertake to which indus or sectoral better no is there that means opportunity this of scale The 2.7% to GDP. UK of –equivalent billion contributio total Fashion’s industries. chemicals or automotive tha £28.1 at –twice billion estimated is economy UK the to industry fashion UK di The industry. ‘cottage’ and esoteric an as perceived sometimes is that imp global and national regional, of sector export-driven ahuge, is This annum. per trillion US$3 estimated an worth industry fashion aworld of capit afashion as London And capital. fashion aworld as distinctiveness a recognis is culture design its of vibrancy and originality The revival. sh years recent in has, which heritage, craft and fashion arich has London East wor the over all heads, turn to collaborate they where other; each innovate c companies where meet; education and business technology, fashion, st century innovation quarter where where quarter innovation century n to GDP is in excess of £50 £50 of excess in is GDP n to s expected to deliver in an an in deliver to s expected s incubation and social social and s incubation rly in London, is well well is London, in rly gital manufacturing that that manufacturing gital . Building on the legacy legacy the on . Building ed factor in London’s London’s in factor ed f markets by digital digital by f markets portunity to secure secure to portunity ss of the Olympics. the of ss esses in East London London East in esses ompete to out- to ompete shion in East London; London; East in shion uster, could serve to to serve uster, could dors across East East across dors l GVA 2.5% and ortance, but one one but ortance, wn structural issues issues structural wn itive place-making, place-making, itive al sits in the context context the in sits al rect value of the the of value rect s that chain. s that e UK. LCF will bring bring LCF will e UK. l market worth an an worth l market rs of the the of rs shion and and shion ld. d in exploring exploring d in rkforce with the the with rkforce idates LCF’s idates try candidate in in candidate try nce of fashion fashion of nce K fashion K fashion wth. ent for fashion fashion for ent e to explore explore e to ase the supply supply the ase ter moment for for moment ter issioned jointly jointly issioned own signs of of signs own t of the the t of owledge owledge s proximity to to s proximity ment of a new anew of ment gnised gnised round for for round ssues ssues fashion sector in London is to is London in sector fashion an high-growth aproductive, sustaining and building of challenge The in drives and opportunities employment value high increases cities, clust manufacturing digital signiicant aglobally as sector fashion –re specialisation’ ‘smart demonstrate to here opportunity an is There inputs. creative and innovation on exchange knowledge educatio of role the focus and talent graduate and local of supply the secure secto fashion the of growth the accelerate to aims It businesses. fashion inve productivity, limit that failures information and challenges addr to authorities local and education industry, with partnership in partne local and industry with consultation in at arrived been has (ELFC) Fas London East an for proposition The sits. it which in communities London sec fashion the for beneits clear with plan acluster facilitating now is GLA 2017. June in East Here L incubator intech successful of founders the by established ups, start fashio for accelerator an Plexal, enterprises. fashion new create and cra develop to residents local for opportunities promote to offenders d students, by use for space training and studios, space, manufacturing disuse convert to Trampery The LCF and HARCA, Poplar by initiated project an Enield, in Bloqs Building at facilities manufacturing specialist Hac including enterprise, and retail fashion for spaces new of creation fo support sector public by met being is Walk Hackney at Academy Stitch the and Techno Fashion the as such projects through skills in investment sector tre these of some accelerate further could initiatives recent of A number quarter. this in located now employment and enterprises c the of proportion ever-increasing an with city, the for manufacturing r design, fashion of growth the driving is London East And created. were jobs 2010 2015, additi to an period the over whilst 57 by percent increased – output Londo of rest the than faster growing It’s people. 36,000 than more employs £1.4 ec London’s to billion contributes Valley now Lea Upper the and London Fa decline. of decades after growth to returning is manufacturing added tha -and city the of rest the across than strongly –more London East in strongly an design fashion that suggests date to research our risks, these Despite fas aworld as status London’s threaten ultimately could reputation and capacit of loss of effect ratchet The businesses. new and ideas new income, a who students overseas the recruit to continue to colleges fashion other th undermine and collections; new into ideas creative their translate desi new of ability the on impact anegative have turn in would This London. East fas specialist of survival the threaten that inputs of costs increasing lab of tightening further to lead could barriers these address to Failure export-led sector. constrai real impose could world, the in elsewhere arrangements trade Eu with trade to barriers non-tariff and tariff of imposition potential geopoli current by impacted are that markets global in operates Fashion employers. to concern areal is countries comi workers skilled and students for movement of freedom to represents manufacturin fashion high-end support to needed skills specialist increasing wealth for citizens. its emp skilled for opportunities the multiply to away as London East in fashion i interdisciplinary for potential the on focus will It sectors. service a creative technology, other with and businesses fashion between both kno increasing by achieved be will This creativity. and design fashion in fo reputation global its to UK the of capital technology and knowledge the as Lon harness will ELFC To this, chain. achieve supply fashion the of parts all increase the absorptive capacity for innovation for capacity absorptive the increase stment and growth in many many in growth and stment d Fashioning Poplar, a d Fashioning er that outcompetes other other outcompetes that er g. Brexit, and the threat it it threat the and Brexit, g. nnovation and growth in in growth and nnovation hion manufacturing in in manufacturing hion rope, and threats to free free to threats and rope, ward investment. ward ess the structural structural the ess e ability of LCF and LCF of and e ability n and Internet of Things Things of Internet n and apital’s fashion fashion apital’s ft and business skills skills business and ft kney Walk itself, itself, Walk kney imagining London’s London’s imagining our supply and and supply our nts on what is an an is what on nts hion city. hion evel 39,evel at open will logy Alliance Alliance logy r in East London; London; East r in d job-creating d job-creating rs. It will work work will It rs. esigners and ex- and esigners shion in East East in shion wledge exchange exchange wledge tical volatility. The The volatility. tical nd business business nd d retail are growing growing are d retail re both a source of of asource both re nds. Private Private nds. ng from other EU other from ng tor and for the the for and tor y, opportunity y, opportunity don’s capacity don’s capacity hion Cluster Cluster hion n’s economy n’s economy n, research and and n, research d garages into into d garages onomy and and onomy etail and and etail loyment and and loyment onal 10,900onal r excellence r excellence t value t value gners to to gners across across r the r the 8 / 9 The East London Fashion Cluster could reinvent the future of retail or take more UK brands into the smart mater smart the into brands UK more take or retail of future the reinvent could bet intersection The exciting. more even becomes potential the blurred sec creative and engineering technology, between distinction the As provide technology labs, media stylists, journalists, agencies, at and showrooms designer labs, technology garment studios, textile su manufacturers, together bring will Cluster Fashion London East The London. to life new bring to legacy Olympic the and heritage ou on builds And economy. our expands and culture our enlivens that A cluster head turn to collaborate they where other; each out-innovate to compete ‘A where cluster fashion, technology, meet. and education business statementforELFC Vision 1.1 a21 of part as valued properly be to sector the allow to UK the industr textile and fashion the of productivity and competitiveness trans to potential the with change for amodel initiate will it process, the In fashi aglobal as reputation London’s project and grow protect, will ELFC investment. for opportunities new of asource as it redeine help cl manufacturing digital acreatively-led as London in sector fashion r to opportunity the creates This technology. and science as services and p new of development the in innovation of adriver much as are reach, global huge inpu creative and design the that emphasise will result that services and innova for support and models business companies, new of incubation The institutions. cultural and technology educational, of cluster innovat technological and business design, education, fashion for w adedicated of combination unique the offer will ELFC industry, fashion sub-s every from businesses representing LCF by and coordinated and Led world’s Creative Fashion Capital.’ Fashion Creative world’s ce that renaissance fashion acreative undergoes London innovation, tech support to resources world-leading of presence the by ‘Bolstered growth. and innovation rel investors, external with relationship sector’s the transforms crea other and designers fashion between collaboration ‘Increased dig and creativity both in strengths London’s to playing experiences, ‘ through interact consumers fashion new, younger and designers ‘Young investmen and innovation through creativity for reputation global ensure the sustained growth and proitability of the sector. sector. the of proitability and growth sustained the ensure m international in compete to needed products new the produce to property exp and identify and growth local secure talent, retain to needed capital R& premises, workforce, the with businesses fashion provide help will L East across available funding and capability network development, busi specialist of offers different the signal and coordinate will ELFC plan. /industry sector anational for appetite an t partners regional out sound to begun already have partners The economy. Its aim is to re-establish London as the the as London re-establish to is aim Its The East London Fashion Cluster: Refashioning East London. Revitali London. East Refashioning Cluster: Fashion London East The World Creative Fashion Capital rs, and entrepreneurs. and rs, easing capital for further further for capital easing st century knowledge knowledge century t in the following way: way: following the t in ion within an established established an within ion Where companies Where y in London and across across and London y in tive and tech agencies agencies tech and tive London College of Fashion, 2016 tors becomes more more becomes tors uster; which in turn will will turn in which uster; ness support, skills skills support, ness ments its position as the the as position its ments ondon. In doing so it it so doing In ondon. ital industries. ital eliers, digital creative creative digital eliers, D capacity and working working and D capacity ween these disciplines disciplines these ween rface decoration decoration rface nical and market market and nical s, all over the world. the over all s, ts of fashion, and its its and fashion, of ts , reinforcing its loit new intellectual intellectual new loit eimagine the the eimagine on capital. capital. on omnichannel’ retail retail omnichannel’ orld class hub hub class orld form the the form tion in products products in tion ector of the UK UK the of ector o see if there is is there if o see ials market.’ ials arkets and to to and arkets r industrial r industrial roducts roducts

sing the UK the sing Building Bloqs-GLA onging projects projects onging Bloqs-GLA Building 210 / 11 STRATEGIC CASE The East London Fashion Cluster reinforce the role of London as a global fashion hub. hub. fashion aglobal as London of role the reinforce ne products, new produce to craft heritage of centuries with recombined a creativity; and technology inance, in penetration market global and specia deep of ablend from beneits now London East economy. UK’s knowledge ful the as emergence London’s in instrumental been has shift That End. East fashio their to close accommodation cheaper of asource as Shoreditch and lo and warehouses explore to began services creative other and agencies a photographers, as ago years ifty Tech of began City, development the and End prope rising by years recent in accelerated atrend industries, creative ‘move East The trade.’ rag ‘the to home was London East inner Historically, co design fashion offering institutions education higher twenty are ar students design LCF of fashion two-thirds element: international in other ‘fashion cities’ worldwide. t beyond go and match that opportunities of range and a wealth enjoy t that conident city, the in remain to London in year each graduate who students tho the of more encourage will offer The SMEs. innovative and fast-moving op create turn in will that markets new into quickly move to infrastructure investors new (and companies technology and fashion from investment techno emerging to access with businesses provide LCF follow. will will LCF le has where And expansion. global their for ahub and industries fashion ambi and scale the of representation aphysical both be will LCF’s presence Corridor. Gateway Production T anew of beacon the as act and capital fashion world acreative as London of status un will it process the In London. East of rest the on effect amultiplier have will Wa Studio and BT Sport East, Here (LUL), London University Loughborough i Park Olympic Elizabeth Queen on institutions research and education pr existing the to adding and Museum, &Albert Victoria the London, College LCF, of alon relocation the of beneits short-term The UK. the in innovation en the transform will CED partnership, public-private million £800 An industry. fashion global wi London East provides It innovation. retail and technology, fashion internation an of development catalyse will Waterfront, Stratford Dist Education Cultural the hub, /R&D Educational an to & Communication) Sch and &Technology Design of School School, Business (Fashion schools LCF, of 5,700 stud its relocation The innovation. demand markets Global R&D.’support t policy aclear have to as it) achieve to inputs new of mass necessary the attract (i innovation about tell to story astrong have to aregion for important as is ‘It LCF asacatalyst 2.2 capital the in located are schools fashion ive top world’s the of three that –relect design edge cutting for reputation international an has London London. in context apolicy in has of arguably within subsumed the been discussion wider ‘ importance industry ‘cottage’ and esoteric an as perceived sometimes is that one but gl and national regional, of sector export-driven ahuge, is York. This New –alongsid capitals’ ‘fashion acknowledged world’s the of one is London Introduction tothecommission 2.1 al hub for design and and design for hub al urses in London. in urses e non-UK nationals. There There nationals. e non-UK th a great ‘story’ for the the for ‘story’ agreat th vironment for fashion fashion for vironment ttributes that can be be can that ttributes rty prices in the West West the in prices rty hose available to them them to available hose ncluding Birkbeck, of of Birkbeck, ncluding logies, attracting attracting logies, ) with the scale and and scale the ) with e Paris, Milan and and Milan e Paris, ed in the fact fact the in ed ents and three three and ents creative industries’ portunities for for portunities w processes and to to and w processes ; and one whose whose one ; and 1/ fts in Clerkenwell Clerkenwell in fts obal importance, importance, obal ool of Media Media of ool , with a strong astrong , with gside University University gside ’ of London’s London’s ’ of usands of fashion fashion of usands tion of London’s London’s of tion n clients in the the in n clients yne McGregor, McGregor, yne crum of the the of crum rict (CED) on (CED) on rict d, others d, others esence of of esence n order to to n order Charles Leadbeater Charles derpin the the derpin o hey will will hey dvertising dvertising lisms lisms hames hames Hackney12 / 13 Walk Store Fronts The East London Fashion Cluster

13 / 14 billion – equivalent to 2.7% to GDP. UK of –equivalent billion contributio total Fashion’s industries. chemicals or automotive tha £28.1 at –twice billion estimated is economy UK the to industry fashion UK di The industry. ‘cottage’ and esoteric an as perceived sometimes is that imp global and national regional, of sector export-driven ahuge, is This those inthose apparel manufacture. worldwi textiles and clothing in employed 57.8(GDP). are people million of the world’s acknowledged ‘fashion capitals’, renowned for the orig the for renowned capitals’, ‘fashion acknowledged world’s the of ind UK’s fashion the of centre commercial and creative the only not is London Figure 1, below). a materials experiences, online and physical in innovation to links and an media creative, wider textiles, distribution, manufacturing, cove chain value Fashion’s below. detail more in this of implications the fashi the dominates concerns, retail integrated vertically large, Street High ‘the UK, the In stores. street high within staff the as well as roles supp management, strategic, of ahost includes sub-sector that this, of larg the up makes 2016). retail Economics Although Oxford (BFC/ 880,000 Un (Fashion 555,000 from range UK the in fashion in employment of Estimates trillion be at valued is market apparel global The industry. global amajor is Fashion Rationale forfashion 2.4 − account: into take will This growth. to barriers be may there where cap fashion aworld of status the London afford that factors reputational a structural economic, discrete the relect to need we ELFC for To case the make potential. global its meeting is London in sector fashion l to aopportunity present industry to them communicate and initiatives fa coordinate –to -ELFC organisation adedicated establish to Proposals Fashion Cluster Proposals foranEastLondon 2.3 − − − to: aims strategy The − − − −

affecting its growth its affecting structur sector, the of output and size performance: economic Current international markets international an manufacturing design, fashion UK of penetration the performance, bra fashion major Weeks, Fashion London reputation: International London ‘core’: Newham Tower Hackney, London Hamlets, e manufacturing fashion high-end and design skills, craft of Heritage and Europe’s leading fashion district fashion leading Europe’s and b to London East for conditions educational and business right the Create Valley? Lea Upper the and London East of areas surrounding and Park growt inclusive in result transformation that could -how effects Wider possibilities, make new connections and tell a collective story acollective tell and connections new make possibilities, t institutions and companies of capacities individual the Stimulate Act as exemplar for sector development activity across London London across activity development sector for exemplar as Act Provide the hub of a network of UK fashion clusters fashion UK of anetwork of hub the Provide 2/ and US$3 trillion and accounts for 2 percent of the world’s Gross Domestic Pr Domestic Gross world’s the of 2percent for accounts and trillion US$3 and 3/

4/

d marketing service sectors sectors service d marketing n to GDP is in excess of £50 £50 of excess in is GDP n to on landscape – we explore explore –we landscape on inality of its design. design. its of inality nd technology (see (see technology nd o create new new o create ly chain and design design and chain ly rs education, design, design, education, rs ook at whether the the whether at ook ortance, but one one but ortance, nds, export export nds, ital, and indicate indicate and ital, de – 24.8 million of of –24.8de million rect value of the the of value rect shion sector sector shion xpertise in East East in xpertise est proportion proportion est d services in in d services h in the Olympic Olympic the h in al factors factors al ’, in the form of of ’, form the in tween US$2.4 US$2.4 tween ustry; it is one one is it ustry; ited) to to ited) t of the the t of ecome the UK UK the ecome nd nd oduct oduct 14 / 15 The East London Fashion Cluster LVMH, Kering and Richemont - are the major driver of trends and demand. and trends of driver major the -are Richemont and LVMH, Kering them own that conglomerates major the -and labels goods luxury and fashion a such centres, other from different structurally is capital afashion as mea This chain. supply fashion UK the shapes (Zara), Inditex as such groups foreig with along Next, and &Spencer Marks Lewis, John (Top Shop), Arcadia house domestically-owned between competition price-driven and indu fashion UK the in role critical and acentral play retailers Street High fashion UK in Street High the of role The In comparison, only 6% of the value of UK fashion retail sales is domesticall is sales retail fashion UK of 6% value only the of comparison, In increase on 2010. on increase –a£2.1 £5.8bn billio almost to increased markets American North and Asian str with exports, 2010. in 2015, in Apparel £6.2bn billion from £8.5 up worth ap and textiles UK available, not are London for igures separate Although An export-led sector Council’s Fashion British the for Economics b developed methodology the on based is sector fashion the of deinition Our Deinition offashionindustry 2.5 manufacturing sectors manufacturing and design Core − − − − − − Pucci, Fendi, Givenchy, Kenzo. Givenchy, Fendi, Pucci, Emilio Karan, Donna Céline, LVMH

Cosmetics, perfume and hair perfume Cosmetics, products Uniforms, workwear, denim denim workwear, Uniforms, Sportswear, sports kit, streetwear streetwear kit, sports Sportswear, millinery eyewear, and accessories, watches, jewellery luggage, and bags footwear, Knitwear, lingerie Womenswear, menswear, childrenswear, tailoring, tailoring, bespoke fashion, ‘couture’ and Designer 5/

McCartney McCartney Stella Kane, Christopher Balenciaga, Brioni, MCQ, Laurent, Alexander McQueen, Saint Veneta, Bottega Gucci, Kering Value of Fashion Wider supply chain − − − − − − − − −

Fashion retail (the major employer); employer); major (the retail Fashion Wholesale Digital manufacturing Textiles merchandising fashionproduction, journalism, buying and marketing, technical, design, –in Education up, creative styling, direction Creative – photography, services hair and make- Marketing Media environments physical of arange in and online both experiences technical textiles and innovation in retail Research and innovation – including wearables, Figure 2. 2. Figure Figure 1 report: Examples of major fashion brands brands fashion major of Examples Mercier, Cartier, Chloé, Dunhill & Baume Alaïa, Azzedine Richemont deinition of the fashion sector fashion the of deinition hold names such as as such names hold s Milan and Paris, where where Paris, and s Milan stry. Their inluence, inluence, Their stry. parel exports were were exports parel y manufactured. ns that London London that ns ong growth in in growth ong n (37 percent) n (37 percent) n-owned n-owned , such as as , such y Oxford y Oxford over a more dispersed range of platforms and market sub-sectors. sub-sectors. market and platforms of range dispersed amore over pro physical with demand; consumer of signals to accurately and quickly respo to needs chain supply the that means This launches. and development o cycle faster amuch in relected is visits of frequency increased The store. aph or website the either visit they time each product new see to and another, one environ retail street high and online –expect ones younger – particularly economy ‘experience the of part now is fashion product, aphysical as much As has Instagram Pinterest, eg retail: fashion for ‘real estate’ the of part re now that platforms media social other -to sub-sectors market discrete Far and Boohoo Asos, as such platforms online and retailers independent re dedicated from vary These environments. retail online and physical wit engage now Consumers designers. and brands for models business new of chai supply fashion the through innovation pulls retailers online and behavi consumer of patterns changing reveal studies International a distribution production, through all across sectors and products se these market to brings that element enabling the forms ICT products. and add value create to businesses innovative for opportunity an to leading con fashion for chains value and markets reshape technologies Digital Digital disruption, converging diverse platforms, audiences − strategy: the on inluences ‘macro’ of anumber are There Trends Global trends 2.6 − − − − − − − − Analysis of current trends identiies a number of key international mark key of international anumber identiies trends current of Analysis business aglobal is Fashion

ingly expect a seamless experience across all media, wherever they are in t in are they wherever media, all across experience aseamless expect ingly incr the And abrand. wikthin achannel not abrand, of is experience their that is e Their platforms. or channels between differentiate not do Consumers Uncertainties in the external environment external the in Uncertainties Emergence of new markets Changing patterns of consumer behaviour of consumer patterns Changing through brand management, digitisation, channel convergence or su or convergence channel digitisation, management, brand through sup fashion the through innovation pulling retail online and Physical Established trading partners in North America and Western Europe Western and America North in partners trading Established Developed and innovative fashion markets in Japan and South Korea South and Japan in markets fashion innovative and Developed Growth in ‘megacities’ with populations of 25 million or more across Asia, A Asia, across more or 25million of populations with ‘megacities’ in Growth Emerging nations of China and India and China of nations Emerging ‘Gateway’ markets and potential collaborators in other emergi other in collaborators ‘Gateway’ potential markets and Store Omni-Channel Retailing Omni-Channel Social CUSTOMER BRAND Mobile Web xpectation xpectation he world. he nd e-commerce. our. The response of ‘physical’ ‘physical’ of our. response The ng fashion cities such as Dubai as such cities fashion ng eas n, and drives the creation creation the drives n, and htags. htags. source – high street and and street –high source tent and information, information, and tent - ed services, applications applications services, ed present an important important an present frica and South America South and frica ets: fetch, all targeted on on targeted all fetch, duct distributed distributed duct ply chain – whether –whether chain ply ments to relect relect to ments rvices, applications applications rvices, stainability f new product product f new h a mixture of of h amixture specialisation market and convergence channel of example an as retailing channel’ Figure 3 nd more more nd ’. Consumers ’. Consumers ysical ysical ‘Omni- 16 / 17 The East London Fashion Cluster fashion start ups using 3D printing, big data and wearable technology. Th technology. wearable and data big printing, 3D using ups start fashion gene anew of emergence the in relected is Makerversity and Hubs Impact as such wo model membership and co-working of rise the and technology of inluence fashi the for drivers strategic are ‘making’ and technologies Digital Digital technology and making challenge. to the inadequate o use and skills digital whose London, in chain supply fashion existing the chal ahuge presents This proitable. more become to order in chain value the up mov to and signals market these of advantage take to enough quickly respond fa the of sub-sectors divergent and specialised increasingly within trend of analysis sophisticated and information date to up to access need Designer fashion. of chain value and model business entire the disrupts d and ‘channels’, physical of and physical and online of convergence This − − platforms for manufacturing and distribution are converging whils converging are distribution and manufacturing for platforms mo business through growth drive to assets and technology the creating in t to proximity from beneit can producers and Designers sector. fashion the deve for model apotential and opportunity an also are agencies digital and serv creative of agglomeration resulting the and TechCity of growth the fa the for talent and space for competition the of part represent they Whilst industry. fashion s and growth to essential is chain supply the across skills software of range techno digital of adoption Continuing collections. seasonal yearly s ‘traditional’ PR for and marketing beyond far goes experience customer creat to agencies marketing digital and creative with collaboration sales fashion UK of value 6% total only the of represents currently fashion prod (UK presence. –market international means designers UK for – which, Digital content a in and c establishing are branding increasingly important Leveraging East London’s digital and creative cluster innovation. to production to design to education from levels, mater advanced and technology digital software, of application and in con with interdependent is sector fashion London’s of development The − adopting ‘omni-channel’ strategies: ‘omni-channel’ adopting ma which in way one illustrates below study case The platforms. online with cost reduce to ways ind to trying still are pressures inlationary and rates soari of atime in –but marginal are ‘offshoring’ of out driven be to savings cost recognis stores Street High online. happens innovation retail all Not street high the on Innovation ski digital address help can engagement this process, the In diverging.

Unmade, whose high-tech knitwear is inspired by 3D printing; 3D by inspired is knitwear high-tech whose Unmade, company Rakuten in 2015; e-commer Japanese by purchased was world, real the in on them try actually to ha without shape body their it will clothes how out igure people help to model 3D an shape body acustomer’s of details takes that service online an Fits.me, Vinaya, whose Altruis X bracelet promises ‘wearable wellbeing’. ‘wearable promises Xbracelet Altruis whose Vinaya, logy and development of a of development and logy t market sub-sectors are are sub-sectors t market shion market in order to to order in market shion e this ‘omni-channel’ ‘omni-channel’ e this on sector. The increasing increasing The sector. on e that the remaining remaining the e that ials technology at all all at technology ials lls gaps in fashion. in gaps lls s and producers producers s and ices businesses businesses ices tinuing innovation innovation tinuing igital content, content, igital s, whilst competing competing whilst s, .) The need for for need .) The tores and twice- and tores s and demand demand s and f technology are are f technology ese include: ese ompetitive ustainability of the the of ustainability dels in which which in dels uced uced heir expertise expertise heir jor retailers are are retailers jor shion industry, industry, shion lopment of of lopment e themselves e themselves rkspaces rkspaces d creates a d creates ng business business ng lenge to to lenge ration of of ration ce ce ving ving midst of a retail environment anchored by major brands such as Burberry and N and Burberry as such brands major by anchored environment aretail of midst co experimental more for afoothold them giving also –whilst designers new re helps workspace shared and stores pop-up of utilisation Increasing br fashion new of growth the support to spaces of use lexible more encourage to tha development commercial of example an is Walk Hackney at hub fashion The workplaces Changing in emerging clusters and capitals, fashion suc markets fast-growing from ot from demand in also are London in developed Skills businesses. own their includi London, in them to available currently opportunities career g the by attracted are graduates Many countries. other from here arriving 67% with LCF’s of design, fa fashion for entrepot aglobal is London present, b raised labour of movement free to threat the by exacerbated be to likely only manufactur specialised around –notably disciplines technical and c essential in shortages of indications seeing now is sector However, the ac play will Institutions Education Higher region’s the this, In skills. qualiicatio level high with individuals retain and attract to have will f market aglobal in compete to order In sector. this in decisions investment th is workforce askilled of availability that understood long has London key factor.” the be –may itself inp industries Creative customisation. and innovation involving industr creative the are notable most be long-term the in may –what products indu creative are as important that suggests This investment. capital o focus the increasingly, –and, market consumer auniform for production ‘Fordism of antithesis the are They sector. traditional any than input, “The now creative probably involve industries greater complexity, and gre World Class Skills designers. UK independent favour could that pieces quali ‘affordable for demand generate could that approach ‘curated’ sto independent an like more feel may environment smaller resulting The McKinsey & Co (2014) Succeeding in tomorrow’s global fashion market fashion global (2014) &Co tomorrow’s in McKinsey Succeeding director of John Lewis Lewis building,” says Street, Andy managing always thought feasible for atraditional John consider opening shops in areas that were not placecan online “We orders. now can signiicantly smaller stores in which customers John Lewis has experimenting been with competition digital and costs property increasing address to innovation Retail Figure 4 Retail and digital costs innovation c to increasing address property uts – notably creative labour labour creative –notably uts ing skills. – that are are –that skills. ing ng the potential to set up up set to potential the ng ritical role. ritical ns and relevant specialist specialist relevant and ns ty’ and leading edge edge leading and ty’ ’ – traditional mass mass ’ –traditional stries outputs – creative –creative outputs stries duce cost and risk for for risk and cost duce e key factor in inward inward in e key factor reative, production production reative, h as Dubai. re, with a more amore re, with reater breadth of of breadth reater f large-scale f large-scale ater management or talent, London London talent, or shion students students shion llections in the the in llections her established established her ies processes processes ies y Brexit. At y Brexit. ike. t is looking looking t is ands. ands. ompetition (GLA, 2004) (GLA, 18 / 19 The East London Fashion Cluster − chain: supply fashion the across forms different in relected is This made. are clothes their how and where of a conscious increasingly type, consumer of type anew of emergence the to led w associated conditions work and sustainability the around Concerns fashion sustainable and Ethical de through value most adds that capital fashion the as London of perception t competitive –apotential chain value the up move to competitors by attempt acons are produce, they garments the within value added the of more capture to effor and goods, manufactured locally of content design the increase to C the of desire The production. cost low for competition intense of oceans’ ac steer to is response Their sustainability. chain supply and practices s increased and costs staff class middle rising costs, commodity rising At in the same time, emerging producers economies are low-cost facing pressu cl tech neighbouring their from mentality astart-up and technology new seeki are sector, fashion avertically-integrated of coordination decad of beneits the demonstrate ways different their in which Angeles, li cities And product. end their of input design and quality the increasing chai value the up and producer cost’ a‘low being of associations the from away appar their move to EU funding accessing is Istanbul innovation. retail d for hub aglobal as itself identify to seeking District, Design Digital its i is Dubai cluster. manufacturing and design fashion innovative an grow p the in investment private signiicant leveraging and level, national s large investing York directly New is market. global the of share their grow citi fashion –major course of laurels, their on resting not are cities Rival Competitor cities − − − − Disciplines − − − Online fashion brands have sought to delect criticism of the negative en negative the of criticism delect to sought have brands fashion Online −

sustainable clothing sustainable environ Trade Fair and Tree, People as producing such brands Specialist requirements on working conditions, pay and employment rights for its s its for rights employment and pay conditions, working on requirements minimu out sets which Conduct of aCode and team compliance ethical own its has trad ‘ethical promote to keen are Monsoon including brands Mainstream fashion capital. fashion w the as London of value brand the in re-invest to offer, their differentiate clearly to need companies fashion its and London of ability the on depends wit plan internationalisation –the management brand Global-local (cf John Lewis case study above) study case Lewis John (cf locatio even and design concept, the –changing experience shopping New asolution. provide not will isolation in manufacturing or brand, d technology, addressing – simply response ahybrid require these of Many opport market and challenges address to way aconcerted in together come to i sector fashion the of elements all for need the emphasises That industry. o workings interconnected and global the highlight all above trends The clothing under a ‘sustainable banner’ ‘u and goods craft brands, British conscious’ ‘ethically promote that E ASOS as such brands, niche creating by fashion’ ‘fast of impacts social and Multichannel strategy - our illustration of omnichannel retailing ( retailing omnichannel of illustration -our strategy Multichannel McKinsey of the behavioural changes that result that changes behavioural the of 6/ identiies three disciplines in which fashion companies need to succee to need companies fashion which in disciplines three identiies ng to adopt the beneits of of beneits the adopt to ng rocess, in attempts to to attempts in rocess, crutiny of labour labour of crutiny ourse away from ‘red ‘red from away ourse ith ‘fast fashion’ have have fashion’ ‘fast ith below) highlights some some highlights below) el and textile sectors sectors textile and el ts of cities like Istanbul Istanbul like cities of ts es are all seeking to to seeking all are es nvesting heavily in in heavily nvesting hin the strategy strategy the hin esign-led IP and and IP esign-led pcycled’ vintage vintage pcycled’ usters. ke Milan and Los Los and ke Milan es of industry-led industry-led of es hinese government government hinese ums at city and and city at ums sign. hreat to the the to hreat mentally mentally f the fashion fashion f the ing’ – Monsoon –Monsoon ing’ vironmental vironmental uppliers; res including orld’s creative creative orld’s n East London London n East nd inquisitive inquisitive nd n through n through cious cious esign, esign, n of stores stores n of co Edit, Edit, co unities. unities. d: m service companies to help them thrive in this multichannel environmen multichannel this in thrive them help to companies service available information capacity about inbetter education, in suppliers requ skills specialist the all employ directly to capacity the acquire to no should particular, in companies, Smaller need. they skills the of view compa fashion that demonstrate clearly challenges Together, these 1/ http://www.mckinsey.com/industries/retail/our-insights 6/ 5/ 4/ 3/ the-state-of-fashion. 2/ Section 2Footnotes Section

http://fashionista.com/2016/06/best-fashion-colleges-201

Fashion United (2016). United Fashion https://fashionunited.com/global-fas

McKinsey & Co (2016). Global Fashion Index http://www.mckinsey.co Index Fashion (2016). &Co Global McKinsey McKinsey & Company and The Business of Fashion (2016). The state of fashion. of (2016). state The Fashion of Business The and &Company McKinsey UKFT (2016). Compendium of UK textiles and apparel manufacturing data manufacturing apparel and textiles UK of (2016). Compendium UKFT British Fashion Council and Oxford Economics (2016). The Value of the UK Fa UK the (2016). of Value The Economics Oxford and Council Fashion British

/the-state-of-fashion 6

hion-industry-statistics m/industries/retail/our-insights/ nies need to expand their their expand to need nies ired; but they will need need will they but ired; , in and competitors in . t. t. t necessarily expect expect t necessarily

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BASELINE20 / 21 DATA The East London Fashion Cluster

FOLDOUT Anya Hindmarch, Hackney Walk, Exterior Exterior Walk, Hackney Hindmarch, Anya 22 / 23 The East London Fashion Cluster − Valley. Lea Upper the and London East of economy the to jobs 36,000 £1.4 over GVA in and billion contributes Fashion value whole the chain. across resilience and innovation promote and capacity, build to need urgent an is there manufacturing, in jobs of number asizeable including sector employment based abroadly- as fashion grow to and designers creative leading world support to continue to is London if that conirm study the of Findings Key indings Valley. Lea Upper and London East across manufacturing value-added and of reshoring and apowerhouse re-emergence adesign as Hackney of emergence the Westield, at employment retail by led London, East in sector fashion the in growth of evidence anecdotal supports statistics, output and employment of review Our Lea Valley East LondonandUpper The fashionsectorin 3.1 − −

2010 and 2015. and 2010 GVA in 128% between and increase employment in a94% with increase sub-sector, fashion growing fastest the is manufacturing challenges, structural its Valley; despite Lea Upper the in growth Manufacturing strong with London, East in Services Design Specialist of concentration aclear is There emerging equipment/digital fabrication methods fabrication equipment/digital emerging of utilisation and skills technology garment to software basic -from 21st for century skills lack currently appropriate Fashion manufacturers lack of practical experience practical of lack and this, to due largely strained are manufacturers and designers young between issues with along cashlow, in gaps crucial stem to inance to access of lack asystemic from suffer Designers Fashion perception of growth in East London’s fashion sector: fashion London’s East in growth of perception the supported base statistical the of Analysis same period: the in awhole as industry fashion London’s as fast as twice nearly Valley rose Lea Upper and London East in GVA employment and Fashion million from GVA, by grew Valley, measured Lea Upper and London East to sector economic contribution of the fashion 2010 2015, and direct the Between AN INCREASE OF INCREASE AN between: 10,900 jobs added Valley has Lea Upper and London East in sector fashion The from £4.363 billion billion £4.363 from ARISE PERCENT OF 43 to £5.644 billion £5.644 to London fashion’s GVA grew by GVA grew 29% 25,300 2010 to to jobs £1.417 billion BEFORE INFLATIONBEFORE 57% per annum employment grew by from 131,300 131,300 from London fashion’s to 159,700 to 36,200 2015 22% jobs £901 £901 7/ fashion district: fashion the of core the remains London East Inner Figure 2 Figure which made it the borough with: with: borough the it made which factor’, ‘Westield the by driven Newham, in GVA and was employment in growth Fastest 16,000 jobs. (£713m 2015) in and fashion output Valley’s Lea Upper the and London East of percent 56 contribute together Hamlets Tower and Newham Hackney, of London boroughs East inner The with the highest GVA: highest the with borough the Remains 2010 £251m Summary of baseline analysis of the fashion sector in East London and Upper L Upper and London East in sector fashion the of analysis baseline of Summary TOWER HAMLETS GVA GVA jobs added 1,300 £267m the highest number of of number highest the fashion-related jobs fashion-related 7,600 56% OUTPUT 2015 inlation) (including 96 percent GVAand by percent 95 by rose boroughs three the in employment 2015,and 2010 Between borough, with increases in: growing fastest next the was Hackney The three boroughs together represent together boroughs three The of London’s fashion manufacturing manufacturing fashion London’s of £93m GVA GVA output by value ea Valleyea 23% London’s fashion sector This represented of the total growth in in growth total the of during the period. the during Employment OUTPUT 1,300 27% 24 / 25 The East London Fashion Cluster potential for innovation. absorptive capacity indica agood is sectors, other many of adriver be to understood is design as and, clust and capability design increasing of atrend indicate igures These 9.46 of notable. score is Hackney’s boroughs. most in business design of concentration of design-based businesses of design-based concentration av than ahigher indicates red) in here 1(marked above score Any London. East in de for data BRES from derived (LQs) quotients location show below table The specialise of aconcentration have boroughs London East of majority The % of total GVA 2015 in total % of GVA (£m) 2015 GVA (£m) 2010 Employment in 2015 in Employment all of atotal % as Upper Lea Valley: Lea Upper + London East between 2010 and 2015 and 2010 between GVA in % change between 2010 and 2015 and 2010 between Employment in % change Employment 2010 Employment 2015 Haringey Bexley Havering Greenwich Barking &Dagenham Barking Lewisham Newham Redbridge Tower Hamlets Hackney East London Total Waltham Forest Waltham

Figure 5 Figure : Summary of baseline analysis of the fashion sector in East London and Upper L Upper and London East in sector fashion the of analysis baseline of : Summary 36,200 25,300 1,417 Total 100 100 901 43 57 2009 0.39 0.47 0.25 0.26 .80.20 0.58 .41.67 1.34 .41.64 1.34 1.53 .11.27 1.21 .11.60 1.01 7.03 1.15 Design 1,000 102 600 99 52 67 Figure 6 Figure 7 3 8/ . We observe a pattern of increasing concentration concentration increasing of apattern . We observe 2014 0.52 0.91 0.45 2.77 9.46 0.98 2.11 Location Quotients for design businesses in East London East in businesses design for Quotients Location 24,900 7 00 60 17, Retail 787 493 60 56 20 42 69 3,800 ,0 3,300 3,800 trib’n 264 Dis 239 10 19 11 - Percentage Change ering in East London – – London East in ering Manufac d design businesses. businesses. d design 6,400 turing 137% 301% -66% 256 12% 125 22% 82% 58% 84% 72% 34% 113 24% 97 18 18 5% sign employment employment sign - erage erage tion of the the of tion Adver 7,491 tising 100 106 ea Valley ea 32 1 4 0 0 - Image products fashion high-end for production added-value of particular –in environment market external its in turbulence of period Resilience: 2010 an between companies 1,800 and 10,900 of jobs increase –an businesses digital manufacturing, robotics, and music. music. and robotics, manufacturing, digital Things’, of p ‘Internet development, software including: fashion, de future on bearing adirect have could and to adjacent are that activities of GVA and gr innovation for capacity greatest the (with businesses media’ Competitive advantage outlier. aclear is retail, fashion by driven is growth whose Newham, di and production fashion other in employment increased ive, observe we Gre and Tower Hamlets Lewisham, Haringey, Hackney, growth: high and LQs comb boroughs London East Five population). working the in designers of ave national the 1represents (where number expected the double than more LQ an o has awhole as London East that reveal design for (LQ) quotients location businesses design for alocation as importance in growing is London East and independent designers. bran global of mix its through consumers international amongst London Scale awhole. as London in sector the for 2010 2015, 29% and against between High sector: growth Valley Lea Upper the and London East in sector fashion the of Strengths – There are 36,200 people in full-time employment in East London fashion in 1 in fashion London East in employment full-time in people 36,200 are –There – Hackney Fashion Hub has helped stimulate awareness of the fashion secto fashion the of awareness stimulate helped has Hub Fashion –Hackney Fashion in East London has demonstrated resilience in its growth during a during growth its in resilience demonstrated has London East in Fashion GVA from fashion in this sub-region grew by 57% (including inlation) inlation) 57% by (including grew sub-region this in fashion GVA from – London has the highest concentration of high value ‘convergent ‘convergent value high of concentration highest the has –London ublishing, creative services, services, creative ublishing, , in the re-emergence re-emergence the , in ds (Burberry, Nike) (Burberry, ds owth) across a range arange across owth) ine high design design high ine stribution sectors. stribution enwich. In all all In enwich. velopment of of velopment rage density density rage – analysis of of – analysis d 2015. f 2.11 – r in East East r in 2,000 2,000 Image26 / 27 © Fashion Enter Ltd. The East London Fashion Cluster and design thinking. addres markets the of scale and range the expand greatly to potential the has se public and processes business manufacturing, including sectors priva the of parts all into creativity and thinking design embed to a channel 39, Level wil Plexal incubator intech successful the established that oper disciplines, of anumber across working companies ‘lifetech’ for − businesses: with R&D in engage to programmes of anumber LCF runs Existing supportforfashionbusinesses 3.2 be catalysed by the launch of of launch the by catalysed be t in investors new of interest the but below), (see plan action the in detailed progr innovation and skills of anumber offering also is sector private The − London:East fashi the for capacity build to programmes capital in investing also is GLA − − − − −

LCF’s LCF’s activation in Tottenham. in activation workspace/comm towards fund a£3.64m Fund, Investment Opportunity th funded apprentices, and technicians operators, trainee for pay and storytelling, pitching etc) to selected applicants. selected to etc) pitching storytelling, m accounting, legal, (on mentoring dedicated provides and industry, di to wanting technologists for designed programme incubation month workshop expansion, which will include an expanded textile lab. lab. textile expanded an include will which expansion, workshop F Regeneration London the via funding of £2,700,000 received recently Building Bloqs innovative outcomes. challenge contemporary to practice creative from ideas and insights c which Hub, Insights Innovation Martins’ Saint Central in LCF apartner is £1.7m through the London Regeneration Fund. ex-offen and designers students, by use for space training and studios, manufacturin into estate housing aPoplar on garages disused 80 convert Fashioning Poplar spaces and studios. showrooms into arches 12 of railway 22 of phase irst the converting and realm wo included This centre. town Hackney of viability the address and renew to in of £1,500,000 with Walk Hackney and Hackney of Borough London provided Hackney Fashion Hub In 2015,In technology. innova collaborative for funds challenge dedicated channelling in CED on space R&D ashared for brief the shaping in role important a potentially re industry design- fostering and processes and products of range wider LCF’s LCF’s Fashion Innovation Agency’s Centre for Fashion Enterprise Albion Knit , a membership-based workshop space in Meridian Water, Enield, Meridian in space workshop , amembership-based , a project initiated by Poplar HARCA, LCF and The Trampery to to Trampery The LCF and HARCA, Poplar by initiated , aproject received a £100k loan to purchase a lat-bed knitting machine machine knitting alat-bed purchase to loan a£100k received – following the riots of 2011, the Mayor’s Regeneration Fund Fund 2011, of riots the Regeneration Mayor’s the –following Plexal Plexal at Here East in June 2017. A private sector accelerator 2017. accelerator June in East sector Here at Aprivate objective is to harness technology to enable a enable to technology harness to is objective runs the Fash-Tech Pioneers Programme, asix- Programme, Fash-Tech the Pioneers runs ctor procurement. This This procurement. ctor l promote fashion as as fashion l promote ated by the team team the by ated tion in fashion and and fashion in tion s to provide provide s to ammes. These are are These ammes. arketing, branding, branding, arketing, on supply chain in in chain supply on rough GLA’s rough te and public public and te he sector could could sector he ders, received received ders, srupt the fashion fashion the srupt und for for und ercial space space ercial lations. It plays plays It lations. sed by fashion fashion by sed onnects onnects g space, g space, rk on public public on rk , retail , retail vestment vestment , and , and 28 / 29 The East London Fashion Cluster to market opportunities and expose manufacturers in particular to inc to particular in manufacturers expose and opportunities market to bein chain supply fashion the in result that external, ive and internal ive hig below table The chain. value fashion the across inluence volatile and apartic exert technology digital and forces market how We described have London. East in sector fashion sustai long-term the threaten may term longer the in and potential growth hold are that challenges structural of anumber conirmed groups focus The London East in sector fashion the facing issues Structural E, below.) Appendix at attached are attendees of (Details ELFC. pro the reine to held workshop, planning scenario asubsequent informed bar and opportunities further identify to helped sessions The London. econom fashion the in out playing were research desk our in observed trends h practitioners experienced these of inputs The experts. chain supply retailers, landlords manufacturers, designers, bloggers, fashion g focus and interviews of aseries through explored were growth to barriers ba statistical the in shown growth headline between discrepancies The Focus group andinterviewindings 3.3 Lack of of Lack in innovation investment developing new and militates collections against in pressures cashlow exacerbates businesses Undercapitilisation risk and cost on manufacturers additional plac designers amongst skills technology Gaps often based aroundoften immigrant communities Immobility Europe Eastern from entrants trained suitably on Shortages weakness Internal and innovation and a lack of succession planning succession of alack and innovation and skills in underinvestment business, of view term short in key software skills (eg CAD) and garment garment and CAD) (eg skills software key in management and marketing in key manufacturing skills - dependency -dependency skills manufacturing key in

of existing manufacturing workforce, workforce, manufacturing existing of of both design and manufacturing manufacturing and design both of skills leads to to leads skills faster turnaround of turnaround newfaster pieces and collections terms favourable less Multiple offering retailers base cost lower and base skills higher with economies emerging other and Portugal Europe, Competition workforce their to close premises new seek or remain, who those for rents escalating and housing for demand high of Risk of of Risk from Brexit result may that movement of freedom on restrictions Threat forces Market unit production costs unit costs production lower much market) mass the (in and quality higher and turnaround faster end) high the (at provide who suppliers overseas on rely they when production incentiveLittle for larger UK labels to ‘reshore’ Figure 7 Figure - sometimes up to 120 days - whilst expecting expecting -whilst 120 to days up -sometimes displacement that this will be exacerbated by any any by exacerbated be will this that – Structural issues for fashion in East London East in fashion for issues – Structural from sampling/CMT units in Eastern , training and providers of existing manufacturers in of areas existing manufacturers elped to clarify how how clarify to elped reased risk. reased riers to growth that that growth to riers se and reported reported and se g unable to respond respond to g unable hlights ten factors, factors, ten hlights

nability of the the of nability position for the the for position ularly disruptive disruptive ularly roups with 20 20 with roups ing back latent latent back ing y of East East y of payment inished garments. garments. inished ske initial interpreting of work the of more on take to prepared are that aield an Europe Eastern in shops CMT to demand of leakage further to leads turn in This from lowerCompetition cost producers w work to reluctant are businesses (CMT) trim’ and ‘cut, make high-end many cash their manage and risk the carry to manufacturer the leaving advance, col the of manufacture the for pay to capital working the have not do designers ear Most delivered. are goods inished 120 or after 90 pay days only will which of cl retail by imposed trade of terms tough the by created are barriers Further cashlow and trade Terms of irm. to irm from but place to place from and sector fro just not widely -varies visits repeat and footfall increase to novelty ad to turnaround rapid on innovation leading’ ‘loss identify to looking retailer street high how or points, price different in relected be to needs ‘affo for demand increased how example, –for received are signals market accur the Atpresent, opportunities. market new address to together work man and designers that means sub-sectors between communication Poor Missing opportunities low. very is manufacturers and designers am software design computer-aided of –use skills digital of lack ashared by pr This products. inished into ideas creative their translate to needed te garment the lack graduates design that complain also Manufacturers skills software and technology garment of Lack OFFSHORING AND ONSHORING high street names through their collaborations. collaborations. their through names street high In another positive trend, closer links designer between fashion and retailer marke the of share agreater capture them help to businesses manufacturing fas of experience with mentors skilled for need the to pointed This London. range their of more ‘onshore’ to retailers street high from demand latent Lo to fashion street high of manufacturing mass of return the seeing not are we samp specialist re-shore to sense makes it whilst that here clear be We should indings.) baseline our 2011 in 2015, and and between companies fa of number the in rise asteady about UKFT from evidence in both out borne is (This f retailers of arange from UK, the to returning production some of examples to f and interviewees Our reached. been has bottom the that signs some are There 2009. by share a2.3% to 60% than more by 1995 declined in manufacturing re that Asector manufacturing. fashion UK of decline the in relected is This British-made. were value by 200 By billion. £3.5 than more of 1988 prices in –avalue suppliers British from sou 1988 it in & Spencer: Marks is this of example striking most The suppliers. ex the at outsourcing explore to started chains large 1980s, early the From vol to led have cost down drive to attempts decades, of anumber of course the Over sector. the for Thi chain. value fashion UK the in role adistinctive plays street’ ‘high The s that could not currently be met in in met be currently not could s that s has had a number of consequences consequences of anumber had s has pense of ‘family’ ties with UK UK with ties ‘family’ of pense hion supply chains to work with with work to chains supply hion s have seen many designers become presented 6% of all UK UK 6% all of presented t. t. rced more than 87% of its clothing clothing its 87% of than more rced ling and small runs of production, production, of runs small and ling atility amongst UK fashion suppliers. fashion UK amongst atility 4, only 10% of retail clothing sales sales clothing retail of 10% 4, only rom Arcadia to Marks & Spencer. &Spencer. Marks to Arcadia rom ndon. This is relected in in relected is This ndon. ocus group participants pointed pointed participants group ocus shion manufacturing manufacturing shion d an element of of element d an oblem is heightened heightened is oblem m sub-sector to sub- to m sub-sector chnology skills skills chnology low. As a result, aresult, low. As s are increasingly increasingly s are ufacturers fail to to fail ufacturers ients, many many ients, acy with which which with acy rdable luxury’ luxury’ rdable ith new designers. designers. new ith ong both both ong tches into into tches lection in in lection ly-career ly-career d further d further 30 / 31 The East London Fashion Cluster sustainable basis.sustainable enter own their starting about information get to or SMEs fashion ethical opportu out seek to events their to coming are practices, sustainable and ado to employers their inluence to unable are they that feel who businesses, ‘mai within from people that reports also (EFF) Forum Fashion Ethical The universit many at training of part acore typically not is This chain. supply manufactu and design sustainable of awareness little show Graduates fashion and around sustainable ethical Opportunities skills. these in shortages plug immedi no is There workers. new of low the reduced has and origin, of countries ret to some led have post-Brexit UK the in reside and work to rights continuing Uncer businesses. CMT successful of anumber established themselves work fashion London East the of part important an are curriculum, English in longer no skills teach colleges technical where Europe, Eastern from Skill employers. to concern areal is EU countries other from coming workers an students for movement of freedom to represents it threat the and Brexit, Brexit about concerns and shortages Skills Manufacturing − − − Lack of head ofice skills skills ofice head of Lack − −

sustainability term long sector’s the and threaten potential growth latent holding are skills and displacement) of risk (cost, property around challenges Structural mentoring collections, with careful street high edge cutting some and high-end re-shore to potential BUT invest in it anyway to insecure too are owners and understood- well not mean of impact innovation issues cashlow by exacerbated and manufacturers designers between failuresInformation

Skills − − − − −

development and growth contrains Immobile workforce- olds are inappropriate olds 16-18 on year focus which Apprenticeship structures existing image- Poor training are not available and skills appropriate that A perception and stunts innovationand stunts supply chain coordination hinders manufacturers and designers among skills software of Lack London designers of image to and machinist of supply to threat Brexit- Figure 8 Figure : Key indings from focus groups and stakeholder interviews stakeholder and groups focus from indings : Key

− − − Distribution andDistribution retail

and attract new investment new attract and creative be to designers up free to critical is Innovation and new retail experiences experiences retail new and fsahion’ ‘fast in innovation of pursuit retailers’ street high from beneit to leaders)- (loss pieces edge leading and luxury, segments - affordable growingaddress market to skills develop to Need scale, Istanbul for cost cost for Istanbul scale, for Angeles Los or York New reputation, for Paris quality, for Milan match about it creativity- can’t is reputation London’s re within the fashion fashion the within re cluded in the the in cluded tainties about their their about tainties ies and colleges. colleges. and ies prises on a more amore on prises nities within within nities nstream’ fashion fashion nstream’ force, and have have and force, d skilled d skilled ed machinists machinists ed pt more ethical ethical more pt urn to their their to urn ate way to to way ate − − − − direction. future the about clear were they But forfewer designers. independent opportunities t that fact the and retailers; independent of numbers large of closure the in co premises increased of shape the in challenges, structural and sector th about realistic was distribution and retail fashion on group focus Our youth. and experimentation quirkiness, expres expression, of freedom relects that brand international an has clear –were workshops retail the in –particularly members group focus Our creative is future The Portugal.’ from come could shirt the but London, in jacket the make acollect branding to approach apragmatic to pointed Others processes. i international of amixture from assembled be may garment ainished which in reali the highlighted way. that Discussion in labelled goods their have b would UK the of parts other in manufacturers whether and market; the in brand require quality consistent the deliver could chain supply the whether que Some brand. London’ In a‘Made promoting of merits respective the about betwee views of adifference and groups, focus within debate some was There Made in London? − −

other creative and technical sectors. technical and creative other betwe working interdisciplinary for potential the harness to done be to m gaps, skills address and opportunities market these harness to order In signiicant piece of work. work. of piece signiicant referenc of terms the agree to sectors creative other in programmes R&D and experie the and HEIs within institutes innovation industry, between colla of speed and number the increasing in role acritical has ELFC growth. to es an is it planning, business other all –like technology and skills digital expe capital and resource development commit to how understand to order roa atechnology need it within businesses individual and industry UK The Innovation is critical to free up designers to be creative and attract new in new attract and creative be to designers up free to critical is Innovation reputation, New York for scale. York New for reputation, quality for Milan match can’t –it creativity about is reputation London’s development – which increases the risks of failure. of risks the increases –which development e an at distribution international and retailers street high with deal to de that means retailers fashion independent of number the in collapse The pieces (loss leaders) to help the high street retain interest in its ‘fast fa ‘fast its in interest retain street high the help to leaders) (loss pieces lea and luxury affordable –targeting segments market growing address de London’s help can chains supply and manufacturing of understanding technic increased trends, fashion global about information Better d to deliver this as a as this deliver d to ty of the supply chain chain supply the of ty sion of individuality, individuality, of sion al skills and greater greater and skills al sts, that have resulted resulted have that sts, e issues to the retail retail the to e issues nce of acceleration acceleration of nce ion – ‘you may may –‘you ion arlier stage in their their in stage arlier shion’. his has resulted in in resulted has his en fashion and and fashion en : London fashion fashion : London , Paris for for , Paris sential precursor precursor sential ding edge edge ding signers to to signers ore needs needs ore n sessions, n sessions, vestment. d map in in d map nputs and and nputs stioned stioned signers have have signers nditure to to nditure e happy to to e happy e for this this e for borations borations Image32 / 33 © Fashion Enter Ltd. The East London Fashion Cluster − London: for held fashion in intervention any, public wh see to comparators international of anumber at looked we mind, in that With competi international major its to relation in and terms absolute in both E in sector fashion the of weaknesses and strengths the about objective be to als is It chain. supply the through down way their work markets, global in but UK vola increased this of effects the which in ways different the understand impo is it London, East in cluster fashion the for strategy any on embarking In fashion capitalcasestudiesandcomparators perspective– Competitive andinternational 3.4 − − here: studies two on We focus capita afashion as themselves establish to marketing international inv by backed sector, fashion the in intervention to approach a strategic ha sector public -the Antwerp and Amsterdam as –such cities European other In − Notes on New York and Istanbul are contained in the technical appendices. technical the in contained are Istanbul York New and on Notes −

World fashion capitals such as New York and Milan; York New and as such capitals fashion World fashion sector; to approaches building contrasting represent a verti perspective, cha avalue from that, Angeles Los and Istanbul in hubs manufacturing Major manufacturing supply chain supply manufacturing fashi avertically-integrated of example an offers which Angeles, Los cost; low of traditiona more the on than rather innovation, and value added of basis the c to looking are that Dubai, as such economies, emerging from Competitors fashion supply chain supply fashion an skills craft retaining of importance the demonstrates which Milan, l. cally integrated tors. estment in in estment tility, not just in the the in just not tility, on design and and design on d variety in the the in d variety rtant to to rtant ast London, London, ast o important o important l entry route route l entry at lessons, if if lessons, at ompete on on ompete s taken s taken in in 34 / 35 The East London Fashion Cluster − location: its to due advantages of anumber enjoys Angeles Los subscription. by funded Associ Fashion (California organisation B2B cluster effective, an opport structural leveraged has that acluster of example an is Angeles Los Angeles: 1–Los study Case − − − − Proximity to a signiicant source of IP from the ilm and entertainment indus entertainment and ilm the from IP of source asigniicant to Proximity − − opportunities for a shared commitment to quality, relected in aproposa in relected quality, to commitment a shared for opportunities proxim This district. Metropolitan the of boundary the beyond extending skill highly of chain asupply by surrounded and centred city the in together p are maisons These retailers. multiple by than rather labels) (fashion mai large of anumber by dominated is it that in model UK the from differs industry countrie cost low to apparel produced mass of outsourcing increasing to as in manufacturing specialist high-end to focus their switch quickly to manufac craft sized medium and small its enabled chain supply fashion its acr quality to attention close paid historically has Milan which in way The chainsupply 2-Milan: study Case sportswear. as such sub-sectors growing importa in presence London’s of development in explored be could that one IP, of enterta of sources form the other in to proximity leverage successful manuf LA which in way –the point another so scale; that on manufacturing house Lond production, ‘onshoring’ in developments encouraging recent succes cluster’s the of core the at are NAFTA, particularly agreements, –trade forms many in come can support public that is ELFC for lesson main The agreements. trade local the maximised have resil around based growth organic through but input, public-sector no grow cluster, the by exploited been has far thus which position, cultural auni has it cities, fashion ‘world’ the than ‘prestigious’ less Although commo some and support interlinked scale, of terms in cluster, a‘true’ is LA California’. in ‘Made jeans –eg, products some for apremium attract still asp which understanding in in astute been has it design, fashion creative York te New in or London as league same the in regarded not is Angeles Los Although − − − − −

Access to cheap power and raw materials materials raw and power cheap to Access machinist wage in California in 2014 in $11.54 was California in wage hour per machinist –a workforce wage low comparatively recently) (until and large to Access – the LQ of its womenswear sector is over 17! over is sector womenswear LQ its of – the manufactur apparel of concentrations densest the of one has Angeles Los domestic market of 300 million consumers million 300 of market domestic th to addition in markets global to access easy USA’s offering the is #1LA port, their brands to producers of fashion products fashion of producers to brands their bu process, development product the in involved be not may or may Licensees: owns all the raw materials. raw the all owns or the placing manufacturer The on-cost. and on-time deliver to ability busi win manufacturers Contract business, new generate to brokers use wit relationships long-standing have may manufacturers: Contract competitive advantage and opportunity to increase margins competitive and advantage opportunity California In ‘Made premium own its alongside leverages and licenses it (Hoovers, 2015) (Hoovers, 2015 in $13,650 was sector mi manufacturing garment the of turnover total co 6,000 in manufacture apparel in employed are 110,000 –over workers Scale turn over at least $1m least annum at over per turn 1,50 than more old; 25years over are cluster the in companies the of –half Maturity Los Angeles offers different models of vertical integration within di within integration vertical of models different offers Angeles Los products in their own manufacturing plants and in those of independent co independent of those in and plants manufacturing own their in products an brand, clothing own their make and design manufacturers: Integrated the importance of retaining craft skills and variety in the fashion fashion the in variety and skills craft retaining of importance the can London offer a vertically-integrated supply chain? supply a vertically-integrated offer London can ation), founded in 2015 in and founded ation), on is unlikely ever to to ever unlikely is on que heritage and and heritage que hysically clustered clustered hysically ient companies who who companies ient s. However, despite However,s. despite trategic response response trategic h designers, or may may or h designers, th has occurred with with occurred has th fferent markets: fferent oss the whole of of whole the oss ects of its brand will will brand its of ects l to certify suppliers. suppliers. certify l to s. The Milanese Milanese The s. ity reinforces both both reinforces ity inment brands – is –is brands inment turing businesses businesses turing unities through through unities der typically typically der ed producers producers ed n goals. n goals. ness on their their on ness ’ brand - offers -offers ’ brand nt, relevant and and relevant nt, d make d make verage verage ing industries industries ing llion llion ntractors. try – which –which try acturers acturers sons sons mpanies; mpanies; e t “rent” t “rent” rms of of rms 0 − for ELFC: Lessons − − − Diversiication of manufacturers which traditionally speciali traditionally which manufacturers of Diversiication − − − Future prooing London’s manufacturing base is key and as in Milan ‘netwo Milan in as key is and base manufacturing London’s prooing Future − − − information failures to improve coordination within the sector) to de to sector) the within coordination improve to failures information companie production added-value and specialist London’s support r street high with relationship chain supply different very its Despite manufacturer. the from responsiveness and skill of levels requ that segment, luxury’ ‘affordable growth high the as such markets, t capital working or skills the lacks often management and coordination th But aspecialism. as inishing and production level high on focus greater i those as strategy same the pursue to suppliers some led has This goods. level productio the for location a competitive longer no is Milan, like London, du place taken has that production high-end some of reshoring the Despite − − − − − for over 50 years. This has resulted in: resulted has This years. 50 over for ar promoted heavily been has message powerful but simple this that ensure co have sectors Private Trade and Government, chain. supply the of bottom f relected is this that ensure to works industry the alike, and designers and t in quality for stand sectors design and manufacturing Milan’s fashion product. end the of quality the over control and process transparenc retain to order in production outsourced cost low of option prefer cluster, the within supply of diversity and variety retain to away as specia and producers craft small support to seek actively they that means loc the within production high-end particular) (in keeping of beneits a cluster the of interdependency the recognise houses fashion large The behaviour. consumer of patterns changing to responsivene the and innovation in involvement shared beneits also It

quantities needed by independent designers. produc to capacity retain to is London if essential make, (‘cut, trim), CMT specia and of competitiveness smallsustainability manufacturers enhanc chain supply the in diversity support to labels fashion of Actions chain supply the of integrity the maintain to way have’, essential an but –no suppliers between networking promoting by coordination Improve employment of experienced intermediaries and mentors. and intermediaries of experienced employment in relationships, chain supply and systems responsive and new develop manufactur UK with work to labels established for opportunity an is There Exploit close proximity and links between local manufacturers and desi and manufacturers local between links and proximity close Exploit Immense added value in consumers’ minds around the world for the “Made in Ita in “Made the for world the around minds consumers’ in value added Immense CMT, artisan, leather and textiles workshops for young start-ups and des and start-ups young for workshops textiles and leather CMT, artisan, manufacturin of wealth the up opening by failures information Address Strong global reputation as a “Big Four” fashion capital fashion Four” a“Big as reputation global Strong end fashion labels. fashion end range whole of production undertake to them enable could goods) leather Build upon East London’s long history and reputation for the making of luxu of making the for reputation and history long London’s East upon Build smaller producers. innov and skills in investment in conidence greater to leads chain supply differ between exchange knowledge increased and integration Closer and the UK hasn’t strategically promoted such a singular deinition withi deinition asingular such promoted strategically hasn’t UK the and Fashio aWorld as branding its to central is quality for Milan’s reputation between specialist suppliers is paramount for survival. for paramount is suppliers specialist between promoting this globally. this promoting i Milan/Italy from alead take and Capital’ Fashion ‘Creative world’s the as London deining in role acentral play to ELFC for opportunity an is There sed in one craft skill (eg, skill craft one in sed s (through addressing addressing s (through etailers, ELFC would would ELFC etailers, velop the potential to: potential the velop al supply chain. This This chain. supply al lising in sampling and he minds of consumers consumers of minds he ss of the supply chain chain supply the of ss o address growth growth o address ire much greater greater much ire y of the production production the y of n of mass or entry entry or mass n of ent levels of the the of levels ent nd the strategic strategic the nd ring this to the the to this ring n Capital. London London n Capital. n its fashion sector. sector. fashion n its list manufacturers manufacturers list ation amongst amongst ation e sector lacks lacks e sector rom top to to top rom g knowledge in in g knowledge llaborated to to llaborated ring this decade, decade, this ring cluding through through cluding ound the world world the ound gners t as a‘nice to t as e the e the n heavily n heavily e the small small e the igners. ers to to ers n Milan: a n Milan: s for high- s for rking rking ry goods ry ly” label ly” 36 / 37 The East London Fashion Cluster This is an opportunity to demonstrate ‘smart specialisation’ ‘smart demonstrate to opportunity an is This tr a$3 address to industries other for opportunity the extends education technolog fashion, of clustering promoting game: sum’ a‘zero isn’t This innovatio development, low, skills information in improvement for the that evidence the and volatility market despite happening is this All industrial premises. addre to initiatives policy wider for a ‘beacon’ be could manufacturing fashion of success GVA the and –and jobs new of asource Valley as Lea Upper and corrid production creating of strategy the supports data baseline The wages. higher and jobs new through communitie deprived most the of some beneit to potential the has turn in This va higher on afocus through growth for opportunity an London East in fashion ski of kinds new with aworkforce and inance technology, of agglomeration resu the and TechCity as such hubs economy knowledge of growth However, the area. the in remain to ability their threaten now pressures same the w fashion the of part asigniicant form to continue form groups transient and centu back dates that atrend in opportunity economic and accommodation c low of combination same the by area the to drawn been has labour, which migrant skil to access been has London East in fashion of success the in factor Another fashio existing to displacement of risk ahuge presents that activities eco valuable more other and housing for premises for demand created now has Ironica Fringe. City the in economy knowledge value ahigh of development t industries creative of ‘move East’ the to acatalyst was It market. to access accommodatio cheap combined it because London East in located Fashion Analysis 3.5 increases high value employment opportunities and drives inward inv inward drives and opportunities employment value high increases sector as a globally signiicant digital manufacturing cluster that ou that cluster manufacturing digital signiicant aglobally as sector 9/ – reimagining London’s fashion fashion London’s –reimagining n and promotion. n and tcompetes other cities, cities, other tcompetes n businesses. n businesses. estment. ors in East London London East in ors ss retention of of retention ss re is plenty of room room of plenty is re y, business and and y, business illion global market. global illion hat drove the the drove hat n with easy easy n with lls now offers offers now lls ries. Immigrant Immigrant ries. lly, that success lly, success that orkforce, and and orkforce, led led lue products. products. lue s in London London s in nomic nomic lting lting ost ost How does the experience of other cities help shape the proposition for Lond for proposition the shape help cities other of experience the does How of intervention public sector Effectiveness − − −

innovation funds available through Innovate UK. UK. Innovate through available funds innovation Gover modest) more (if equivalent of receipt in be to positioned better be to ne the address will initiatives funding other scale; in organic more is but investment from NY City Hall. City NY from investment se capacity, manufacturing new within integrated support business in of amodel offers (www.manufactureny.com) York’ New ‘Manufacture Trade. International for Department the with UKFT and Council Br by coordinated promotion investment and trade Great’ is ‘Fashion the Fas London as such campaigns proile high existing on building Capital’, Fas ‘London of promotion year-round for proposals in up picked –is campaign ams ‘I the in observed –as investment inward and economy visitor of offer city a fashion of marketing coordinate better to opportunity the But London. av longer no –is sectors manufacturing fashion and textile its integrate cap develop to Istanbul, in destination; tourist and capital afashion as itself brand to Antwerp, of case the -in EU of money sums large invest to option The growth in an ‘omnichannel’ retail paradigm. paradigm. retail ‘omnichannel’ an in growth techno the about indings our relects experiences, retail physical and br design, garment in innovation digital on afocus of favour in altogether eschewi fashion, to approach its but destination, avisitor as status its reput fashion Dubai’s sectors. respective their on impact limited had Tech Ci Dubai and City Media –Dubai efforts Previous scratch. from cluster b to Emirate the by attempt another is District) Design (Dubai ‘D3’ Dubai’s ELFC sets out to do. do. to out sets ELFC secto public the and fashion between interface effective an providing Ag lobbying. and development sector coordinate to body industry-led astr of importance the emphasise ways, different in Angeles, Los and Milan textiles. innovat promote to MIT and Defense of Department US by project innovation 11/ 11/ Our proposal for a Fashion Manufacturing Hub borrows from the model, model, the from borrows Hub Manufacturing aFashion for proposal Our 10/ The major investment, however, is a share of a$315m of however, ashare is investment, major The eded by a $3.5m a$3.5m by eded ation is linked to to linked is ation ng manufacturing manufacturing ng r in the way that that way the r in logical drivers of of drivers logical acity to vertically vertically to acity ain, this is about about is this ain, ailable to to ailable cubation and and cubation ed for fashion fashion for ed on? hion Week and and Week hion s part of the the of s part itish Fashion Fashion itish anding, online online anding, uild a creative acreative uild ty – have –have ty ong ong nment nment ion in in ion terdam’ terdam’ hion hion − − Angeles Los Support Cluster comparisons study Case must be used for production. for used be must 17% buildings that new the of Stipulation uses. ofice creative and manufacturing (EBA ), Area” balance to Business Enhanced − York New − − − − − Figure 9 Figure

38 / 39 The East London Fashion Cluster ‘Made In California’ attracts a 9% premium a9% attracts California’ In ‘Made associations other with links and bank resource information manages events, organises District, Fashion –promotes organisation B2B based subscription – not-for-proit, 1995) (est Association Fashion California Made in NY: in $10mMade annum per designers and manufacturers designers for portal Madeinnyfashion.nyc Fully funded internships for students for internships funded Fully technologies’ ‘advanced explore to funding Seed Fashion Production Fund Production Fashion Exhibition funding Exhibition : International case study comparisons study case : International − Antwerp −

technology and the creation of 100,000 jobs 100,000 of creation the and technology production their of modernisation the capital, their of reconstruction the through irms of competitiveness the recover to aimed which Flanders, to went which of 80% 1980 2002 term plan to brand Antwerp as a fashion capital capital afashion as Antwerp brand to plan term along of –part roof one under resource tourism and training : ‘ive year textile plan’ saw investment of €687m, of investment saw plan’ textile year : ‘ive : Creation of ModeNatie – putting main fashion research, research, fashion main –putting ModeNatie of : Creation space ‘hub’ not unlike the CFDA incubator. CFDA incubator. the unlike ‘hub’ not space work aphysical including designers, young for support inancial and training, planning Also game. e-commerce their up designers young help will things, other among that, centre aresource create to bank yet-unnamed as- an with partnership in 1958)est working (CNMI, Italiana Moda della Nazionale Camera Milan

London Amsterdam − −

general) in its export promotion export its in general) in industries creative to (as opposed design Dutch on focus astrategic has Netherlands missions inward facilitate and advice creative to provide industries/design expertise dedicated includes ‘iamsterdam’ and investment trade promotion

− Istanbul

competitiveness international increase to (FTC) Cluster Textile and Fashion establish to EU funding − Dubai −

perspective cities’ a‘smart from retail fashion in innovation at looking (‘D3’) District Design Dubai Internet of Things technology, AR, VR … VR AR, technology, Things of Internet latest very the using design and distribution retail, on is focus entire the so impractical; is manufacture that mean shortages Water 40 / 41 The East London Fashion Cluster − participants: workshop the We asked focused. supp how for plans frame to start to and development, sector for objectives opt strategic the down narrow help to used was setting, aworkshop in E, below) ac and professionals industry of agroup involving planning, Scenario Fashion Cluster Developing theproposition forEastLondon 3.6 − − could point to an even more gloomy prognosis. gloomy more even an to point could g current of sustainability the and Brexit around uncertainties the but se be would These undercapitalisation. widespread of consequences skil coordination, and information poor address to intervention for be analysis SWOT the in (detailed sector the of growth and sustainability str the London, East of case the In case. -a‘do nothing’ ‘counterfactual’ the inc typically intervention public any for case business the of Analysis scenario –‘do nothing’ environment current the in Risks −

– eg, higher levels of innovation, more manufacturing? more innovation, of levels higher – eg, t within variety greater on –or etc down, rents keep to –seeking sector fashion entran new of supply the on emphasis more put place/variety on afocus Should (eg Barking & Dagenham, Havering) whilst retaining the sense of place and v and place of sense the retaining whilst Havering) &Dagenham, Barking (eg T the of parts other in infrastructure cluster the of some locate to feasible agglomer and ‘clustering’ physical between relationship the is What How could existing skills shortages and gaps best be addressed? be best gaps and shortages skills existing could How (indigenous businesses, existing manufacturing design a businesses workf fashion the is mobile How cluster? this of factors’ ‘human the are What courses’? ‘hor this is Or projects? revenue and capital both in role coordinating and o aprogrammatic have should that organisation asingle there Is leads? Who ls gaps and shortages, and the the and shortages, and gaps ls ludes consideration of of consideration ludes lobal trading arrangements arrangements trading lobal rious concerns at any time, time, any at concerns rious low) point to the need need the to point low) ademics (see Appendix Appendix (see ademics uctural barriers to to barriers uctural ation effects? Is it it Is effects? ation nd new entrants)? ort might be be might ort ses for for ses hames Estuary Estuary hames ions and and ions verview verview orce orce ariety? he place place he ts to the the to ts to promote innovation in design in innovation promote to High Street ‘monoculture’ with fewer stores independent Underinvestment in R&D Undercapitalisation skills software of Lack and gapsShortages in critical making skills skills and aspiration managerial of Lack industry cottage esoteric, as fashion of perception Investor market to channels as act and innovation in invest to businesses mid-sized Too few chain ofLack and responsiveness quality supply in production information about drivers of innovationImperfect Weaknesses network. bus local good and Gatwick) (City, Heathrow and regional airports three station, London and international destinations via Stratford central City, the to communications physical Good challenges structural development, notwithstanding of stages all at businesses retain and attract to locations strategic in workspaces lexible of A range stage. international an on businesses its and sector fashion the marketing in asset -asigniicant spaces cultural class world of number high already the to adds CED world the in three top the of one as and Global recognition of London as UK’s creative capital, markets global for hub as London business to offers of a range combine that Valley Lea Upper and London East across sites employment Strategic expertise sector real with HEIs class world Skills, research and of capability knowledge transfer to suited convergence footprint Sector tech crucible and acreative as sub-region London East the of Image East London’s fashion sector of employment) GVA and both (in performance Strong that combination in a single cluster ind to place only the – Capital Financial the and Capital assame location Capital, the the Knowledge Creative the in capital fashion aglobal as position London’s Strengths Overseas competition/subsidies businesses small to entry to barriers additional presents consolidation Market countries Competition – including CMT from low(er) offers cost earnings export reduce further could trade free global to Threats reputational damage skills, markets, to access –reduced Brexit Immobile workforce workforce fashion the of means the beyond typically housing, Displacement of industrial premises to provide ‘Reshoring’ of production high-end ingrowth local communities andwidespread employment inclusive opportunities to leading workforce of diversiication and Growth markets new to access enhance to companies small and large between Interaction changing market opportunities to response in companies mid-sized dynamic of Growth Capital’ Fashion Creative ‘World as London of representation by –enhanced export and –FDI Globalisation development skills and innovation collaborative drive to sectors priority other to Links models subscription-based and content of growth drive revenues online Increasing behaviour determines demands on supply chain –consumer chain value the through driven Innovation therefore, are opportunities) global. (and, problems The year. each pounds of billions of tens worth are population ageing an and change environmental transport, health, address to need sector’s public the to relate that services and goods for markets alone, UK the in sectors: health and public in innovation ‘hidden’ address to potential up opens others, and UCL’s Hub and GDI Agency Innovation LCF’s Fashion Plexal, through promoted sectors, Increasing convergence tech between and other Dubai and York New Milan, in those alongside developed, being now hubs fashion specialist global of a handful of one is create will CED of creation and LCF’s move Threats Opportunities Figure 10 Figure Swot analysis 42 / 43 The East London Fashion Cluster summarise these in the table below. table the in these summarise technolo and social economic, political, respective their with each adetail with presented were Participants environment. technology eco political, the in threats and opportunities to respond might London se fashion the how of scenarios different of arange presented We therefore examine approaches. the of likely different impacts sect the by needed support the of scale and nature the both calibrate to us allow I London. East in sector employment awidespread as presence continuing b the all move and shortcomings sector’s the all address to bullet’ a ‘silver i in move that describe to not careful We are change. will London East in fashion situa LCF’s the and CED of that move, mean development planned However, the Paris, Milan and Dubai all beneit from London’s fall. London’s from beneit all Dubai and Milan Paris, York, New cities: fashion other to drawn increasingly is talent design of population mobile its as forfeit is capital fashion creative world’s the as status London’s andundercapitalisation a lack of innovation, by Hobbled market. sportswear the dominate to designers its allow York New of out coming ‘affordable luxury’, and the material innovations on focus its increase to able is Milan sub-sectors. fashion ‘fast’ in pressure price unsustainable and product fashion high-end London’s the for demand fashion spending, resulting in greatly reduced lead to consumers reduce their uncertainties economic global But sector. the in barriers structural address to steps takes sector public The realities new to 3–Adapting Scenario loss and of reputation. capacity, opportunity terminal in resulting sector, fashion London‘s of parts component the between mistrust and gaps skills innovation, of lack weakness, structural accentuates this costs: increases and labour skilled of supply the tightens power, purchasing hits Brexit A ‘hard’ 1–Entropy Scenario creative fashion capital. world’s the as position its cements that renaissance innovation, London undergoes a creative fashion market and technical support to resources leading world- of presence the by Bolstered growth. and innovation further for inlows capital new offering investors, external with relationship sector’s the and other creative and tech agencies transforms designers fashion between collaboration Increased andcreativity digital. both in strengths London’s to playing experiences, retail ‘omni-channel’ through interact consumers fashion younger new, and designers Young Capital Fashion Creative –World 4–London Scenario economic exclusion. of risk at and qualiications educational formal no or few jobs accessible manufacturing toparticularly those with inclusive and growth provide local employment, a diverse range of within the capacity sector, to secure retaining in lie to determined is Cluster Fashion London East the for rationale economic The failure. market prevent to intervention public for justiication failure’ a‘market provide jobs to threats and demand Weak time in 2– Astitch Scenario Figure 11 Figure gical implications: we we implications: gical ed series of scenarios, scenarios, of series ed nomic, social and and social nomic, arriers to its its to arriers Scenario planning Scenario t does, however, t does, ctor in East East in ctor tself as as tself tion for for tion or, to and world’s creative fashion capital.’ fashion creative world’s ce that renaissance fashion acreative undergoes London innovation, tech support to resources world-leading of presence the by ‘Bolstered growth. and innovation rel investors, external with relationship sector’s the transforms crea other and designers fashion between collaboration ‘Increased dig and creativity both in strengths London’s to playing experiences, ‘ through interact consumers fashion new, younger and designers ‘Young investmen and innovation through creativity for reputation global re Capital, Fashion Creative World the as London re-establish to is aim The s fashion the to innovation proitable deliver to knowledge and capacity inc to labels fashion end high and retailers Street High UK from investment geogr this across activity R&D in increase asigniicant trigger will ELFC a maximum to creativity their exploit to capital and technology talent, offe will which proximity, that from beneit will scale-ups and start-ups indi and incomers Both face-to-face. meet manufacturing garment end sp and retailers and brands fashion major of ofices Tech head as the City, such knowledg major inance, designers, fashion which in UK the in place only the E Wharf. Canary and Tech City in the City, capital knowledge of centres other i by accelerated be will London East in sector fashion the of renaissance The chain. supply fashion ac innovation for capacity absorptive the increase to is London in sector jo and high-growth aproductive, sustaining and building of challenge a it economy, global the in conditions trading tougher and demand falling abo complacent being without and businesses, fashion many in growth and limi that failures information and challenges structural existing constra the dismissing Without groups. focus the in representatives ind by expressed been that one is group the from emerged that proposition The London, World Creative Fashion Capital easing capital for further further for capital easing t productivity, investment investment t productivity, t in the following way: way: following the t in tive and tech agencies agencies tech and tive ments its position as the the as position its ments ital industries. ital ints imposed by imposed ints dvantage. dvantage. r ease of access to the the to access of r ease nical and market market and nical genous businesses, businesses, genous aphy, drawing in in aphy, drawing b-creating fashion fashion b-creating upply chain. upply omnichannel’ retail retail omnichannel’ ross all parts of the the of parts all ross rease London’s London’s rease inforcing its its inforcing sserts that the the that sserts ts proximity to to proximity ts e economy hubs hubs e economy ut the risks of risks the ut ast London is is London ast ecialist high- ecialist ustry ustry 44 / 45 The East London Fashion Cluster studio space and ‘making’ facilities leads to increasing clustering o clustering increasing to leads facilities ‘making’ and space studio re of mix the where Walk, Hackney in evident most is approach this of success The price. to sensitive but fashion, curiou is that audience ayounger into tap to stores pop-up and outlet through Economic their ‘home’ countries, but retaining the IP in London in IP the retaining but countries, ‘home’ their manufactur scale large to access of resource ‘diaspora’ the with ‘edge’ a technical creative, London’s of best the mixing businesses, global’ gen anew form to begin schools fashion London’s of graduates investment, wi awash and opportunities market international by emboldened Newly t their of 30-50% up make now that designers London young from collections new underwr to begin manufacturers chain, supply own their secure to order In paymen on (eg trade of terms better for retailers multiple ‘mainstream’ succ manufacturers ofice, Mayor’s the of backing the with awhole as cluster su and markets, international and outlet online, for product London’ In ret and distributors with position bargaining a stronger by Bolstered platform. ayear-round to showcases Week Fashion London three the ex now that focus of kind the –extending campaign capital’ fashion ‘London b opportunities showcasing and pop-up outlet, online, Multiplying subscription. as such models, business new skil development product and content of hybridisation resulting The pai and relationships their secure to seek increasingly agencies tech market and advertising bigger over advantage an them gives nimbleness experie retail and product both in innovation constant for them) around spr that stores pop-up the (and outlets new the of demand the and collections o turnaround faster the by created work of volume increased the by Attracted retail. online for designing of the by honed been have segmentation market and fashion fast in skills whose designe established both for market to access increased provides This London. East North and East of arc an across pop-ups and outlets of u set demand) other suppressed has Brexit which (for property developed inv ‘distressed’ alarge of affordability relative the and experience typ new for demand of evidence the by encouraged investors, private Other ‘athleisure’. mass-produced of a decade di buyers young trend-conscious engage to points price –at experiences new offerin apps and platforms retail online responsive of generation a new softwa and marketing design, of cross-fertilisation resulting The Mo to Dalston from stretching district fashion anew cluster, resulting Shored traditional its beyond expands ‘Tech as City’ irms, retail online small and frequently turned around collections of stock both online and and online both stock of collections around turned frequently and small managing demand, this meet to pricing and product their adjust to start and this; grasp designers young London’s brand. the to arelationship but environmen retail physical and online between experience a seamless ‘omnichannel’ increasinglyConsumers expect retailing to provide n f fashion, marketing, tech and and tech marketing, f fashion, rning Lane. rning r up with new designers. designers. new with r up re skills fuels the creation of of creation the fuels skills re itch base to join up with the the with up join to base itch entory of speculatively- of entory ecome the focus of a new anew of focus the ecome nce, and aware that their their that aware nce, and nd entrepreneurial entrepreneurial nd ls leads to exploration of of exploration to leads ls ailers hungry for ‘Made ‘Made for hungry ailers ing irms, small creative/ small irms, ing ing opportunities in in opportunities ing rs and new entrants, entrants, new and rs pported by the the by pported t periods and returns.) and t periods g new fashion and and fashion g new th private private th f new online online f new ing up within and and within up ing p a constellation p aconstellation ite investments in in investments ite tail opportunities, opportunities, tail eration of ‘born ‘born of eration es of retail retail of es ists only around around only ists essfully lobby lobby essfully ir experience experience ir saffected with with saffected s about new new s about urnover. ot only ts, ts, to people living in those boroughs. (straddles political and social) and political (straddles boroughs. those in living people to o explosion an and opportunities service and sub-sectors new creating innovati in term long the over invest to distributors and manufacturers develop property sector private encourage to combine measures These capacity. innova management, project management, business own their in invest manuf encourage to scheme (‘voucher’) led ademand by accompanied is This 16-24 olds. year amongst apprenticeships lexible and traineeships skill technology and management performance marketing, content, leadi aworld represents now that sector manufacturing afashion within World Fashion Capital. Fashion World t as advantage unassailable of aposition into London catapults fashion f ‘observatory’ an developing and innovation technological on focus in an with LCF Stratford a‘new’ at of development the cluster, this of heart At the investment in research, development and commercialisation. enga activity this for centre leading world’s the as itself identifying application commercial successful into translated be can research an science of discoveries the which through channels main the of one as alike po and industry by seen now is Fashion investors. tech sector private among technology, as promoted ‘lifetech’ perce the Plexal, through transforms sm and home sport, health, of ields adjacent of arange in discoveries those of day, interdiscipli the every with engage all we that something is fashion innovat in investment public of levels unheralded attract to sector the U Innovate with aligns fashion of consumption and promotion creation, technolog enabling and emerging of adoption the developing on focus The environment. t by demanded product new of turnaround faster the to respond and diversify enabl to skills production and management agile new in and technology new manufactu stimulates platforms distribution physical and online aran from demand of security the in conidence greater and cashlow Improved ranges. whole to garments personalised from anything create audienc fashion offering proliferate, apps and platforms online New a labels new to services their promote to start whom of more manufacturers, ef more work to them helps turn in This skills. tech garment their strengthen a that tools productivity and software adopt to designers encouraging s beneicial the has irms tech and creative with collaboration Increased Technological Social develop campaigns to promote and provide work experience opportunit experience work provide and promote to campaigns develop to combine colleges and schools Industry, plugged. be to urgently need shortages and gaps skills new resulting The increased. has labour for demand and loor; factory the and ofice head atelier, the the between gap the closed now has change technological and market Accelerating manufacturers manufacturers a labels foreign-owned from including propositions, tech fashion in investment new of awave –attracts demand the by drawn labs maker a spaces co-working sector private other and Plexal Lab, Anthropology –LCF Digital facilities R&D distinctive and multiple of Presence rers to invest both in in both invest to rers s. London’s success in in success London’s s. ges a ‘virtuous cycle’ of of cycle’ a‘virtuous ges s to encourage take up of of up take encourage s to unction for the future of of future the for unction es opportunities to co- to opportunities es ion. On the basis that that basis the On ion. on, plant and skills, skills, and plant on, llow them to to them llow K strategy, allowing allowing K strategy, he leading creative creative leading he f new jobs available available jobs f new nary applications applications nary ide effect of of effect ide ption of fashion tion and marketing marketing and tion ng hybrid of craft, craft, of hybrid ng ers, designers, designers, ers, ies within the the within ies fectively with with fectively licy makers makers licy s aresult. e them to to e them d technology d technology acturers to to acturers his changed changed his art cities cities art ge of of ge creased creased nd nd nd nd ies ies 46 / 47 The East London Fashion Cluster investment. at and export for fashion showcasing in investment and on focus increase to e approaches Brexit as export on focus increasing and currency Weakened to communitiesopportunities London. East across em new up opening whilst routes, these along premises new to relocated have acc to continue to workforces existing allow –that lines underground and corrid –bus transit rapid for provision includes zones these of Planning fut the for plan to conidence them give that leaseholds long and relief rates ac manufacturers fashion offers Corridor Production Estuary Thames manufacturin and design for Zone Enterprise aStrategic of creation The technology. aparticular on focus to than rather chain, fashio the of level every at people of talents creative the develop to is aim The a collaborations inter-disciplinary and variety support to London bu technical and manufacturing creative, of arange to tenure of security awarenes with mixed chain, supply fashion the throughout innovation absorp of development the encouraging on focuses Policy, therefore, and greater to consumer responsiveness demands. cre more allows that chain supply fashion the of management and marketing ‘ag and specialisation smart of adoption widescale through sector the f driver the is platforms online and experience retail both in Innovation Political value between related sectors”. related between value tech enabling of use the also promotes It elsewhere. activities similar idea of connections build to helps It chains. value and supply its and economy ful are activities that ensure to need the emphasises It economy. global the as human and physical the of advantages comparative the relects properly 2016. http://wwd.com/business-news/other/white-house-rev com/business-news/government-trade/manufacture-new-york- 11/ 10/ 9/ 8/ 7/ Section 3Footnotes Section IN RPI grew by 15.72% in the same period period 15.72% same by the grew in RPI

Note that not all of these will be designer fashion businesses – see Appendix B Appendix – see businesses fashion designer be will these of all not that Note “Smart Specialisation seeks to ensure that proposed actions are based up based are actions proposed that ensure to seeks Specialisation “Smart

Ellis, K. and Friedman, A. (2016). White House paves the way for new textile fr textile new for way the paves House (2016). A. White Friedman, and K. Ellis, Friedman, A. (2016). Manufacture New York blossoms in Brooklyn. WWD, 10 M WWD, Brooklyn. in York blossoms New (2016). A. Manufacture Friedman, OUT leading cluster of fashion innovation assets. innovation fashion of cluster leading aworld support to policy of development the through capital fashion wor creative leading the as reputation London’s on build to opportunity the upon seizes Cluster Fashion London East the of formation The Department for Business, Innovation and Skills (2015) Skills and Innovation Business, for Department olutionary-textiles-10402144/ blossoms-brooklyn-10426994/ nologies that can transfer and add add and transfer can that nologies cross the sector. sector. the cross Figure 12 Figure ombination of business business of ombination s of the need to offer offer to need the s of tive capacity for for capacity tive ly integrated in the local local the in integrated ly ile’ methodologies in in methodologies ile’ sets of particular places in in places particular of sets or transformation of of transformation or ors, light rail rail light ors, on sound evidence that that evidence sound on g in Haringey and and Haringey g in sinesses within East East within sinesses s, inance and trade with with trade and inance s, ess jobs that that jobs ess ncourages DIT DIT ncourages ontier. WWD, 1 April 1April WWD, ontier. tracting inward inward tracting ure. ative freedom freedom ative ay 2016.ay http://wwd. Scenario planning Scenario n supply n supply ployment ployment

ld ld Photograph by Hanna Puskarz Hanna by Photograph 448 / 49 ACTION PLAN The East London Fashion Cluster This means addressing gaps in the supply chain holistically, taking int taking holistically, chain supply the in gaps addressing means This specia ‘smart of principle the respect and relect way some in should report f result that interventions the of all that is recommendation interim Our chang of advantage take to processes and models business responsive and devel to helping by London within chains supply strengthen help will ELFC Estuary. Thames the in corridor’ ‘production led ac establish to process the in step irst the is It Plan. Area Valley Opportunity 10 LLDC’s Plan, Year GLA’s th Plan, the London in relected are they as linkages strateg This sector. industry single any of development the beyond go that processe to link aclear has also London East in sector fashion the for Support and regional priorities Sub-regional sectors. and applications of arange to inputs fashion of value econo visitor the and art culture, technology, linking enterprises, developmen and growth for ahub provide to clusters other those to proximity relation leverage now will CED the areas; those into moving enterprises an artists by presented opportunities market and talent new of inlux the of larg in was hubs knowledge those of growth The kinds. all of collaborations int in result to and ideas of sharing accelerate to shown been has Wharf Canary Te in assets knowledge of clustering physical the stated, previously As Enterprise. Fashion for Centre Colle London of presence the and businesses content digital value high of sign from beneits also Hackney London. East for advantage competitive apote signals businesses design of concentration high very Hackney’s i design value higher on dependent Valley. Lea asector In Upper the and London fashio of percent 56 represent together which Tower and Hamlets, Newham ‘ London East inner an on focused currently is fashion in activity value High focus and proximity Space, hub site and meeting point. capabilit and resource institutions’ other of advantage best taking drivi key partners, with integrated vertically be will body cluster The nee the meet to tailored interventions specialist sector of programme info coordinating for responsible organisation support business I London. East in sector the within failures coordination the to response organisati (ELFC) Cluster Fashion London East an create to proposal The Creating the EastLondonFashionCluster 4.1 − − − productive, more competitive, and more creative. mor become cluster the of members all helps and market the from signals the for ‘am an as –acts example for Walk, Hackney at happen to beginning is – as providers a production design, of clustering physical that evidence some is There volati market of threats the increase and term short the in opportunities t international about uncertainties production; and prototyping workin of lack shortages, and gaps skills over concerns premises; of cost chall combine structural about with concerns internalThese factors −

Information failures (lack of access to market information and techni and information market to access of (lack failures Information Coordination failures – barriers to entry to –barriers failures Coordination Skills gaps gaps Skills Undercapitalisation rade - to limit growth growth limit -to rade rmation lows and steering a a steering and lows rmation my and to crystallise the the crystallise to my and enges as; such increasing ies, with CED as a physical aphysical as CED with ies, rom the indings of this this of indings the rom ng open innovation and and innovation open ng ds of fashion businesses. businesses. fashion of ds o account: t will be a strategic astrategic be t will lity over the long term. long the over lity ntial source of of source ntial ch City, the City and and City the City, ch g capital for for g capital on is a strategic astrategic is on op more sophisticated sophisticated more op nd other service service other nd ships with and and with ships y recognises those those y recognises ing opportunities. opportunities. ing lisation cal know-how) cal iicant networks networks iicant reative industries- reative s of ‘place making’ making’ ‘place s of ge of Fashion’s Fashion’s of ge core’ of Hackney, Hackney, of core’ d creative d creative e part a result aresult e part e Upper Lea Lea e Upper n GVA in East n GVA East in t of creative creative t of erdisciplinary erdisciplinary e nputs, nputs, pliier’ pliier’ 50 / 51 The East London Fashion Cluster universities can take place on equal terms. Physical infrastructure w infrastructure Physical terms. equal on place take can universities sma between collaboration where environments virtual and physical devel the in invest sector public the that requires also it it, within irms the i the of performance of atransformation for potential the offers it Whilst net sectoral and local overlapping and multiple across base knowledge indu between connections those facilitate to order in sector the within organ cluster responsive and aknowledgeable for need the and transfer, Educatio Further and Higher of role the accentuates innovation ‘Open’ developm ... to economic proactively contribute they development, a specialisation’, ‘smart Through geographies. regional and local ‘pla and ‘anchors’ important are colleges and universities agendas, ... Alongsid productive. and innovative competitive, more become to universities andbetween Put businesses. simply, universities organ assist m the by underpinned is Strategy Industrial Government’s current ‘The Role of Higher and Further Education Institutions of the sector. capacity increasing productive acritica is chain, value fashion the of parts different between proximity t address to space suitable of demand and supply balance to interventions poli for calls This soon. time any supply new by matched be will particular, in Eas and London, in housing for demand increased that suggestion no is There − − Poplar and Newgen. Newgen. and Poplar Aca Technology Fashion Academy, Stitch –including activity fashion s already organisations sector private other the with ELFC integrates busin speciic sector and responsive of development the is corollary Its −

growth cluster can be built. be can cluster growth ahi whom around entrepreneurs from propositions business class world an investors new identify will businesses services professional and le region’s the with partnership in Working MediaCityUK. of potential capit we that ensure to order in sector the in opportunities investment the inform right the with them provide to and region our in investors potential enterpris of climate competitive and asimilar foster to seeks strategy ELFC ground. the off ventures new get to order in IPR over sign even and share to Univers Cambridge that fact the is success its to Critical 35 individuals. amere of anetwork of involvement the to traced be can years twenty last the of outs succes the of many that indicate cluster hi-tech Cambridge the of Studies UK. the in cluster hi-tech Cambridge the Valley, or example, for cluster competitive and creative most world’s the amongst in observed behav and services of coniguration of kind the is This markets. new to access capi enterprise of form the in beneits further bring can inance venture and establish to Proximity services. and products new develop to expertise a one on and universities corporates, large in base knowledge the upon draw n and R&D in investment sustain to capacity strategic and inancial the lack increasingly on their to willingness collaborate. and capacity Small c smal for –particularly competitiveness knowledge’, distributed ‘ with markets global in operates that sector moving fast and afragmented In CATALYSING IN CLUSTERS UNIVERSITIES OF SUCCESSFUL ROLE THE LCF and other universities’ existing incubation business and innovati V&A East, with its mission to investigate the role of the designer the of role the investigate to mission its with East, V&A A Fashion-tech and smart materials showcase on CED on showcase materials smart and A Fashion-tech nd their expertise in skills skills in expertise their nd l irms - depends -depends l irms ce-makers’ in their their in ce-makers’ ill be provided by by provided be ill ent ‘ ent ll irms, corporates and and corporates irms, ll ervicing a range of of arange ervicing d match them with with them d match demy, Fashioning demy, Fashioning e their international international e their stry and the the and stry n in knowledge knowledge n in ultiple interactions interactions ultiple ess support that that support ess l success factor in in factor l success ompanies typically ompanies typically works of interest. interest. of works e, to identify e, identify to ndustry and of of and ndustry 12/ isation embedded embedded isation isations of all sizes ading inancial inancial ading on activities ity was willing willing was ity opment of both both of opment ed businesses businesses ed s – Silicon s –Silicon he need for for need he gh value, high high value, gh sful spin spin sful cy and and cy ation about about ation alise on the the on alise eed to to eed t London t London tal and and tal widely widely iour iour nother’s nother’s chain and drive demand for skills within a region that results in retention a retention in results that aregion within skills for demand drive and chain rivalr inter-irm and competition market increase investors Inward investment. attra to ability its on part large in depend will creativity and innovation sustainabili The national. than rather global are fashion for Markets investment Inward externalities, from includingthreats Brexit. London within growth inclusive address powerfully will This skills. techn for development of apipeline in investing by jobs, manufacturing en for vacancies existing up taking from people young deterring are which of manufac value added in prospects career the demonstrate will Employers ‘pipeline’.graduate ne its of as well as sectors other in employees current of skills transferable und an develop to need will it critical become they before shortages skills addre to is sector the if so alone, entrants new by met be cannot skills for Demand non-graduates. to open are roles most which in production, shor and gaps felt keenly most the of Many competition. international and technol to response in changes structural undergo industries other as employm awidespread become to fashion of potential the express will This arr contract term short and employment full-time between chain supply acros skills of low the of understanding an develop to but sector, the of needs projec and immediate the address to only not providers apprenticeship sect private and colleges HEIs, employers, with work to continue will ELFC suppl global and marketplaces digital of challenge the meet to required t of grasp little have entrepreneurs individual and employers small many behav and demand consumer in changes by disrupted been has months six every ‘seasona producing of rhythm The sector. the of needs future to relevant is en to oversight provide will board advisory strategic industry-led An dema of growth by presented opportunities new the meet to skills relevant th courses develop to and demand with skills of supply match to industry with f stimulus the place in put UKFT. will It and Council Fashion British the as such o sector other and industry with LCF by partnership in delivered be will ELFC Talent and skills development − − LUL has a speciic mandate for design innovation through its its through innovation design for mandate aspeciic has LUL − − sector. private the from ventures new stimulate to R&D and leadership hig providing in and activities research its from out spin in both here, role Hig skills. and networks guidance, innovation transfer, knowledge of They strategy. sector fashion the of delivery in component essential an -are LUL and Birkbeck –UCL, QEOP around and in institutions other the LCF and

and public sector procurement. procurement. sector public and bu manufacturing, including sectors public and private the of parts all cr and thinking design embed to achannel as fashion using in disciplines, of wor companies ‘lifetech’ for accelerator sector aprivate Plexal, and Innovation innovation and also serves as a research aresearch as serves also and innovation entrepreneur to related programmes of anumber delivers Development LUL an interest in materials future research). UCL’s be will QEOP the to move will ‘mak ‘originating’, and are ‘connecting’, which of three themes, four science and technology. Within this, UCL will multi-disciplina offer ar around experimentation for aplace provide will UCL’s QEOP the on campus UCL, through its its through UCL, and its its and Global Innovation Disability Hub Institute forInstitute Digital Technologies Institute of Institute Making 13/ , complements the activity of LCF of activity the , complements . Its Institute for Enterprise Enterprise for Institute . Its (which shares with LCF and LCF and with shares (which y, strengthen the supply supply the y, strengthen ’s communities and reduce reduce and ’s communities her Education has a dual adual has Education her Institute forInstitute Design ty of sector based on on based sector of ty sure that training training that sure ogical change change ogical fer businesses businesses fer ct foreign direct direct foreign ct ry programmes within programmes ry ted direct skills skills direct ted ical and management management and ical angements. angements. king across a number anumber across king y chains. y chains. ing’. One faculty that that ing’. faculty One he future skill sets sets skill future he h end support for for support h end erstanding of the the of erstanding turing, lack lack turing, nd attraction of of attraction nd w entrant and and w entrant tages are in in are tages or training and and training or siness processes processes siness l’ collections collections l’ nd. nd. ent sector sector ent rganisations rganisations try-level try-level ship and and ship or HEIs to work work to HEIs or at will provide provide will at s the fashion fashion s the eativity into into eativity iour, but ss its its ss ts, ts, 52 / 53 The East London Fashion Cluster − − links with other sectors of the knowledge and advanced manufacturing ec manufacturing advanced and knowledge the of sectors other with links in build and UK, the of rest the in and London across developments for catalyst –b London East in sector fashion the develop to activity on focused be will ELFC development wider catalysing in ELFC’s role chain. supply the in gaps any ill and strengthen will investment whose over (both businesses target and identify to partners industry global &Pa London with work will ELFC investors. international to region London i asset astrategic be will sector fashion the of development for acatalyst as th London, in investment inward for site only the not is London East Although markets. international opport companies local offer all platforms e-commerce and Saints) All oversea success seeing are who retailers UK market. domestic its of share as for demand creating in critical is strategy internationalisation An opportun employment sustainable, more and more, in results growth own t capacity their and SMEs grown’ ‘organically than base asset ahigher from typica are investors Inward awhole. as sector the of beneit the to key talent, − − −

Culture and the visitor economy technologies Environmental and medtech Bio- Advanced manufacturing Sector supply chain opportunities in other sectors of the knowledge economy. knowledge the of sectors other in opportunities chain supply dev and with collaborate to opportunities signal and coordinate will It and nations of the UK the of nations and a ‘spokes’ cluster other with activity coordinated a‘hub’ for as act will It Corridor Produ Estuary Thames the of development the for project a‘beacon’ be will It Fashion Innovation Playground – are envisaged as pilots for London-wi for pilots as envisaged –are Playground Innovation Fashion fram London’ for Skills ‘Fashion –the interventions proposed the of Many and develop affordable premises and specialist production facilit production specialist and premises affordable develop and iden to practice and knowledge develop authorities local help will ELFC 14/ Wayfaring and signage of East London Fashion Fashion London East of signage and Wayfaring programmes Studio Open and London’’ in ‘‘Made through crafts and arts fashion, of Promotion Fashion – tourism Hackney Walk London Fashion Capital textiles materials, wearableSmart technologies, high performance MedCity and Plexal by ampliied cross-overs for potential the –with materials smart Wearables, textiles High performance materials Smart Demand factors Figure 13 Figure Linking fashion and other high value sectors sectors value high other and fashion Linking ector which has only a6% only has which ector seas and domestic) domestic) and seas ies for fashion; for ies unities to access new new access to unities onomy. s (e.g. Ted Baker, ities. ities. rtners, DIT and and DIT rtners, elop market and and market elop o invest in their their in o invest n promoting the the n promoting de activity de cross the regions regions the cross tify, safeguard safeguard tify, e role of ELFC ELFC of e role lly working working lly terdisciplinary terdisciplinary ework, ework, ut will act as a a as act will ut ction ction grow into businesses. sustainable tho allow to order in costs affordable at runs smaller deliver to factories ar apolicy by complemented be to need would strategy fashion sustainable t and costs import high avoid also would products new these of manufacture UK 13, Figure above). (see garments, and fabrics wearable des with working engineers and -e.g. scientists products and processes collabo cross-sector for potential the offers London East research, ahu As fashion. sustainable for opportunities great holds Clustering apremium. pay to willing be would they which for robustness high-quality a guidelines, production UK within regulated brand, London’) in ‘Made Bri in a‘Made recognise would consumers that argues It ‘storytelling’. transparen for market agrowing identiied has Forum Fashion Ethical The for fashion andOpportunities ethical sustainable ration on new sustainable sustainable new on ration b for technology and and technology b for tain’ (and by extension extension by (and tain’ s being of ethical and and ethical of s being se collaborations to to collaborations se igners to grow grow to igners cy and and cy ound supporting supporting ound axation. A axation. 54 / 55 The East London Fashion Cluster and signalling Coordination Coordination Fashion Capital manufacturing and design fashion ethical in interest ashared with medium-term, and LCF will explore possible funding streams that could s could that streams funding possible explore LCF will and medium-term, co anew establish to be will aim However, above. the indicated as group, a wider short-t the in functions these of some for responsibility assume LCF will promotion and thought leadership, shapingpolicy and effective incl tha programmes targeted include below out set activities proposed The ELF the of development the driving of capability the with board, advisory ind an and governance own its with but Fashion of College London within asmal of development the on 2018) focus will April (to activity Pre-launch Partners: Wider Partner: Lead LONDONEAST FASHION CLUSTER Proposed new intervention MySource together better groups three the bring to listings rating Here It Make Let’s activity Existing Trade and investment promotion investment Trade and UKFT and BFC London Fashion Weeks apprenticeships − to: collectively proposals draft contains plan action The transf the of fulilment the to contribute that activities existing with sub-regiona industry, and education between partnership private c group the by developed initiatives strategic combines plan action The business. every for solution cann –it failure market address and provision other in gaps the ill to seek only int public that clear it make will cluster the for case business However, the an presents, this opportunities the about information coordinated en individual and enterprises fashion small and Micro- development. ec of remit the beyond extend to and sector public the of that exceed greatly to need ind of investment the succeed, to it For sector. fashion the of development in for aframework out sets Cluster Fashion London East the for plan action The Action PlanInterventions 4.2 − − − − − −

- digital forum to connect a wide range of fashion makers, designers, and inv and designers, makers, fashion of range awide connect to forum -digital Increase knowledge exchange between fashion sub-sectors and servic and sub-sectors fashion between exchange knowledge Increase Address career development, key skills gaps and shortages and gaps key skills development, career Address Provide lexible, short-term inance to address undercapitalisati address to inance short-term lexible, Provide within production o of perception the improve opportunities; market changing address to ‘sm of development through sector the of diversity increasing Support Incubate businesses Promote ethical design and production and design ethical Promote sector developers initiatives andsector community-led publi with cooperation in workspace affordable of supply the Increase London College of Fashion - activities and existing body membership trade – membership organisation for UK fashion professionals offering men organisation for UK offering – professionals fashion membership GLA, LLDC, Plexal, BFC, industry BFC, Plexal, LLDC, GLA, – Online resource for designers, brands and retailers that works by users users by works that retailers and brands designers, for resource –Online – British Fashion Council-led Fashion –British – BFC and UKFT in partnership with DIT with partnership in UKFT and –BFC uding signposting and networking. uding and networking. signposting erm, working in partnership with with partnership in working erm, l partners and local authorities – – authorities local and l partners t ill market gaps, advocacy and and advocacy gaps, market t ill ormational agenda of the strategy. the of agenda ormational upport this coordinating entity. coordinating this upport d support to address them. them. address to d support onvened by GLA –apublic- GLA by onvened on trepreneurs will need need will trepreneurs C. C. l entity, incubated incubated l entity, ependent, industry-led industry-led ependent, mpany to deliver in the the in deliver to mpany ustry partners will will partners ustry c sector, private private c sector, ervention should should ervention e sectors art specialisation’ specialisation’ art pportunities pportunities dustry led led dustry ot provide a provide ot toring, estors, estors, onomic onomic training and Skills Fashion Technology Academy mentoring andgrants, a programme graduate traineeship − Delivery Mechanism Fashion Trust Trust Fashion Academy Stitch − − − − − − &Training Skills Required covering: proposal costed working more closely with industry s lending is LLDC colleges; local with together LCF and UKFT leads: Project Newham College teach It fashion. to related skills manufacturing for centre training management. Working closely with industry and informed by demand, the F the demand, by informed and industry with closely Working management. tech and craft from Pipeline, Sector Fashion the across 1-4, Levels gaps, identi Framework aSkills of London East in development the pilot will ELFC Wider Partners Lead Partner FASHION SKILLS FOR LONDONERS FRAMEWORK Proposed new intervention Pillar Education BFC Existing and planned activity − − − − Outcomes

• Interface with Apprenticeship levy and Apprenticeship framewor Apprenticeship and levy Apprenticeship with Interface • • • Management and executive skills executive and Management • • • • manufacture fashion to related skills technical and Craft • • • Assessment of capital investment required for new facilities and equ and facilities new for required investment capital of Assessment • Appraisal of models for training delivery and capacity and technology a technology and capacity and delivery training for models of Appraisal Development of considering of proposal delivery preferred manufacturers to enable compliance with ethical production standa production ethical with compliance enable to manufacturers existin to loans) of form the (in funding and training of stream work A related with some prior work experience work prior some with leave school mature by participation broaden to potential Exploring targeting gaps intargeting provision around: course qualiications, additional where identifying A ‘wishlist’ professional development and providers) course guidance, (careers provision skills existing of appraisal An fashion manufacturing. manufacturing. fashion c (in gaps and (pipeline) shortages for both demand skills of assessment An Pilot options within unique fashion education ecosystem in East Londo East in ecosystem education fashion unique within options Pilot Outline cost for delivery of boosted provision provision boosted of delivery for cost Outline in other parts of the capital the of parts other in r existing through London across delivery expand to potential Explore can access the skills they need to succeed to need they skills the access can Londo all ensuring to approach strategic 2017-throughout acity-wide Londo for ‘Skills Mayor’s the of section Skills Industry Creative Inform Review of industry partnerships (retail and manufacture) to leverag to manufacture) and (retail partnerships industry of Review product costing and buying, support for industry compliance compliance industry for support buying, and costing product pro cashlow as such areas in mentoring and support business Wrap-around fabrication – Skills including Digital technology andDesign garment Tailoring potential Hub proposal for streamlining Manufacturing with Focused : Greater London Authority Authority London : Greater - charitable initiative offering business support to British based de based British to support business offering initiative - charitable : UKFT, LFC, LLDC and BFC and LLDC : UKFT, LFC, at Hackney Walk - fashion-related business development and support and development business -fashion-related Walk Hackney at – apprenticeships for tailoring and fashion manufacturing fashion and tailoring for –apprenticeships - Careers initiatives, scholarships and apprenticeships. (NB: 2 apprenticeships. and scholarships initiatives, Careers - - an offshoot of Fashion Enter: public sector/ industry partnership to de to partnership industry sector/ public Enter: Fashion of offshoot -an upport on ideas for harnessing the Apprenticeship Levy/ Apprenticeship the harnessing for ideas on upport es levels 1-4 for NEETs and unemployed people NEETs unemployed for and 1-4 levels es s, modules and training is required, likely likely required, is training and modules s, s, modules, facilities, continuing continuing facilities, modules, s, nical skills through executive and and executive through skills nical rds (Fast Forward /SMETA Audits) Forward (Fast rds rs (post Apprentice age of 24), of age Apprentice (post rs ners Strategy’ being developed developed being Strategy’ ners e investment in the programme programme the in e investment ners and London businesses businesses London and ners fying key skills and training training and key skills fying n elationships with FE providers FE providers with elationships ks ks ramework will build towards a towards build will ramework nalysis of FE FE of nalysis

017 Year BFC is Education.) of ipment, including including ipment, urrent workforce) across across workforce) urrent signers through inancial inancial through signers g and start up up start g and jection, jection, liver a a liver

56 / 57 The East London Fashion R&D and ClusterInnovation − Outcome: £15m to up funding, for bids lexible –business-led, funds Open − Proposed new interventions whi exciting and new products businesses keeping designers, talented Fashion Innovation Agency vision academ and organisations alongside working fashion, in technology Lab Anthropology Digital Existing and planned activity − 2017/18: across Innovate UK opportunities funding produ and business-led the to oriented and equivalents, and programme Enterprise Fashion for Centre and Lab Anthropology Digital and Agency incl Institutions, CED the of ambitions and assets networks, existing con and response in shaped be will programme fund challenge the of design The sup tangible of offer an with industries and technologists designers, CED, the bring across exchange knowledge and potential collaborative a smes and researchers designers, technologists, between projects promo of purpose the with programme accelerator fund challenge A hosted Partners: Wider Lead Partner: FASHION INNOVATION PLAYGROUND Making of UCL’s Institute 2017 June from –live fashion including areas various in technology Plexal unprecedented exposure and opportunities. At the physical epicentre of the East London Fashion Cluster will sit ashowca sit will Cluster Fashion London East the of epicentre physical At the Partners: Wider Lead Partner: SHOWCASE R&D TECH FASHION lev funding match potential for sources including ‘hosts’ challenge Outcome: fashio UK wider with exchange and links facilitating centre aknowledge as emergin a showcase as well as laboratory aresearch both as act will facility materi sustainable of exploration new of development the for labs dry and fab digital for equipment advanced most the Containing platforms. and a research the around sectors and institutions, disciplines, across int an CED, the creating within institutions the between shared spaces) secure support for cluster/centre development. support secure e Fund Challenge Industrial forthcoming the from UK Innovate leverage operational/m case, business (to include stakeholders wider avi develop to consultants commission investment shared for case build steps: Next showca for applications AR/VR and innovation fabric tech, wearable as development partnership industry and technologists engineers, ta learning, collaborative and collaboration cross-sectoral and Next steps: steps: Next b their on capitalise fully to knowledge chain supply or product of depth the and technology in clothing, jewellery, accessories and services. En services. and accessories jewellery, clothing, in technology and

Emerging and Enabling funds for business-led R&D projects focused on te on focused projects R&D business-led for funds Enabling and Emerging support where there is clear evidence of a ‘cluster’ and evidence that bene that evidence and a‘cluster’ of evidence clear is there where support Innovate UK’s build for funding investment in network ‘Launchpad’ – interdisciplinary innovation hub (at Here East) supporting start- supporting East) (at Here hub innovation – interdisciplinary Delivers on original vision and ambition for the including cluster facilit New products, platforms and processes and IP resulting from the interac the from resulting IP and processes and platforms products, New Wider engagement amongst the CED partners to scope appetite and shape sco shape and appetite scope to partners CED the amongst engagement Wider Ongoing concept development, identiication of industry or commerc or industry of identiication development, concept Ongoing LCF LCF LCF LCF GLA, CED institutions and stakeholders and institutions CED GLA, GLA, UKFT, CED institutions and stakeholders and UKFT, institutions CED GLA, – a unit with a broad interest in future materials research materials future in interest abroad with –aunit at London College of Fashion - research centre looking at the future of of future the at looking centre -research Fashion of College London at at London College of Fashion - collaborations between brands and and brands between -collaborations Fashion of College London at anagement strategy); investigate potential to to potential investigate strategy); anagement ngible facilities to encourage designers, designers, encourage to facilities ngible nd development of new materials, products products materials, new of development nd ; new products and IP development, such such development, IP and products ; new suring that fashion tech start-ups have have start-ups tech fashion that suring erage cross sectors, and to unlock the the unlock to and sectors, cross ensity of collaborative relationships relationships collaborative of ensity uding LCF’s Fashion Innovation Innovation LCF’suding Fashion ic institutions who share a similar asimilar share who institutions ic port and investment. investment. and port rication and printing, as well as wet wet as well as printing, and rication sing and retail. and sing armarked for creative industries, to to industries, creative for armarked ing, investors, and programming le offering designers previously previously designers offering le sion and brief in consultation with with consultation in brief and sion n industry hubs. n industry als and wearable technologies, the the technologies, wearable and als ing together researchers, researchers, together ing g products and materials, acting acting materials, and g products ups in the development of of development the in ups ’s Fash Tech Pioneers ’s Tech Fash Pioneers ct development focus of of focus development ct usiness opportunity. usiness sing space (or series of of (or series space sing ting collaborative R&D R&D collaborative ting it will be UK-wide (rolling) UK-wide be will it ation of cross-institutional ation of cross-institutional chnology, up to £15m to up chnology, sultation with the the with sultation tion of fashion design design fashion of tion ial partners and and partners ial pe of offer, offer, of pe

Funding the LFF will be part of the East London Fashion Cluster. Fashion London East the of part be will LFF the business the of proportion asigniicant that expected is It conscience. environmen an with entrepreneurship fashion develop to be will fund the busi accelerate and incorporate conceive, help will it development; a nationally and regionally locally, business fashion support will It en tech and designers with investors link to aims fund equity LCF’s planned Partner: Lead LONDON FASHION FUND Planned activity Innovate UK Europe’s global competitiveness. a initiative lagship 2020 aEurope Union, Innovation the implementing i (2014 inancial the is 7years It over 2020). to available funding of billion €80 2020Horizon activity Existing − − meet UK innovators in its ields of focus of ields its in innovators UK meet − − All of the above demonstrate very low levels of take up by UK fashion businesse fashion UK by up take of levels low very demonstrate above the of All startups.’ digital and science tech. growth ‘high targets investme equity £1m) and private match £250k to between rounds (in funding London Co-Investment Fund −

determine which science and tech developments will drive economic gro economic drive will developments tech and science which determine fund the strongest opportunities fund the strongest connect innovators with the right partners right the with innovators connect is the UK’s innovation agency; it is an executive arm of BEIS. It works to: works It BEIS. of arm executive an is it agency; UK’s innovation the is : the biggest EU research and innovation programme ever with nearly nearly with ever programme innovation and EU research biggest : the London College of Fashion offers a tiered co-investment fund providing seed seed providing fund co-investment atiered offers s t all stages of their their of stages t all nesses. A focus of of Afocus nesses. es supported by by supported es imed at securing securing at imed tal and social social and tal trepreneurs. trepreneurs. nstrument nstrument nts. It It nts. wth 58 / 59 The East London Fashion Cluster Space and signposting to wrap-around services. toand signposting wrap-around bro of development ongoing demand; of pipeline showcase to tool digital ‘minima of development dissemination, and tools online from learned Next steps: steps: Next pr and knowledge of exchange cross-borough ongoing business; fashion suppl predictable ensure to tenures long on workspace refurbished and Outcome: sec fashion indigenous the of competitiveness the inluencing a factor commerci available of use the promote and preserve to examples practice authori local to available interventions and measures policy of range affordabl for GLA’s strategy review will partners Lead communities. Ea within growth enterprise creative new for conditions the providing disp of risk the reducing premises, commercial for demand of pipeline the a supply address to plan action an in engaged be will developers and Boroughs specialist textile lab and workshop space in Enield BFC Fashion Spaces Fashion BFC Enield in space workshop and lab textile specialist − − − − Building Bloqs Building and chain supply providing developmen capacity commercial production Fashion Enter capital Group Providers Workspace Open years. seven next the in workshops manufacturing and stores, outlets retail fashion designer 100 open plan: The Union. European the by Hub Fashion Hackney activity Existing a range of workspace in East London. The ‘coordination’ service would con would service ‘coordination’ The London. East in workspace of a range fa and developers authorities, local connect to ‘service’ A brokerage corporates i &fashion providers workspace developers, landowners, boroughs, partners: Wider partners: Lead WORKSPACE ALLIANCE FASHION Proposed new intervention

broker it. t want or boroughs) (developers, it have who those with space seeking those de of pipeline coordinating for tool/platform digital A light-touch including model Section 106including model Section and templates. agreements fund capital new to and premises commercial existing of displacement of thr to both response arapid enable to authorities local for toolkit A policy space space in light and industrial safeguard and capacity production expand to and public-p for opportunities funding co-investment to Signposting An interface with existing activity of the Open Workspace Providers Gro Providers Workspace Open the of activity existing with interface An clearer pipeline linking demand with supply, robust stock of appropri of stock robust supply, with demand linking pipeline clearer ongoing review of policy measures and best practice case studies, lesso studies, case practice best and measures policy of review ongoing – working factory with a training element delivered by experts on-site, on-site, experts by delivered element atraining with factory –working – a membership-based fashion manufacturing initiative containin initiative manufacturing fashion –amembership-based London Legacy Development Corporation and Poplar HARCA HARCA Poplar and Corporation Development Legacy London GLA, BFC: Fashion Spaces, CED institutions and stakeholders, local local stakeholders, and institutions CED Spaces, Fashion BFC: GLA, - designed by the Manhattan Loft Corporation and part-funded part-funded and Corporation Loft Manhattan the by -designed – a network of space of space operators across the the across operators space of space of –anetwork e workspace, the the e workspace, ndustry experts and and experts ndustry ties and best best and ties shion businesses to to businesses shion rivate development development rivate st London’s London’s st l viable product’ product’ l viable mand and aligns aligns and mand tor. y of workspace for for workspace y of actice. t opportunities , pop up up , pop lacement, lacement, kerage system system kerage al premises as as premises al sist of: of: sist dustrial dustrial up ing, ing, ate, new, eats eats nd nd g a o ns ns support and incubation Business Next steps: IV. IV. III. up scale and start-ups fashion of acceleration and incubation Boost II. I. Outcomes: manu value added existing to displacement of threats address and sector fashio the in compliance and Innovation drive to technology; wearable clothi in businesses of creation support to programmes incubation and develo workforce inclusive business, innovative develop to York’) ‘Manuf of lines the (along support around’ a‘wrap with hub manufacturing op one least at commission to seek could development of strand a particular accelera and incubation existing for support continued to addition In Partners: Wider partner innovation LCF lead as Partner: Lead FOCUSED MANUFACTURING HUB Proposed new intervention NEWGEN hub CED new LCF its in for operation aspoke providing Housi Riverside Poplar new the within located funding, GLA by supported Fashioning Poplar growth manage grow, but only not to them help will that guidance mentorin tailored with businesses designer based London providing Centre for Fashion Enterprise Existing and planned activity tech skills levels 1-4 within a live factory environment factory alive within 1-4 levels skills tech Fashion Technology Academy mentors. and p of network external an and BFC the through support mentoring and business Ongoing engagement with boroughs with engagement Ongoing III. II. I. Concept development - gather best practice from international pre international from practice best -gather development Concept I. manufacturing facilities were up) scaled manufacturing compli (if UK to production signiicant back bring would retailers Large R&D of back the on manufacturing for through pull the Enable production. and design between interaction g fostering sector, fashion London’s of capacity productive the Boost expansion of provision b) gaps in provision of facilities, equipment facilities, of provision in b) gaps provision of expansion for a) scope explore to manufacturers existing with -engage Engagement relocate to operat or expanded be could that facilities existing -mapping Research links models,operating industry offers womenswear and menswear designer recipients inancial, show inancial, recipients designer menswear and womenswear offers Open call to industry – facilitated by the ELFC (GLA/LCF in the interim); interim); the in (GLA/LCF ELFC the by –facilitated industry to call Open UKFT with GLA to coordinate input on training provision element provision training on input coordinate to GLA with UKFT - partnership between LCF and housing association Poplar HARCA, HARCA, Poplar association housing LCF and between -partnership (at Fashion Enter) provides on-site training manufacture manufacture training on-site provides Enter) (at Fashion at London College of Fashion - four-level programme, programme, -four-level Fashion of College London at pment, education education pment, g and business business g and tor programmes, programmes, tor n manufacturing n manufacturing ng, textiles and and textiles ng, cedents, info on on info cedents, s. facturing. facturing. ng Zone and and Zone ng reater reater acture New New acture ant ant ors looking looking ors en access access en artners artners casing, casing, 60 / 61 The East London Fashion Cluster investment Trade and III. II. I. of the capital, capacity combining:productive renais the 2017 over showcase to Ofice Mayors by explored being Initiative Wicked, Open House Wider Partners: Partners: Lead LONDON CREATIVE FASHION CAPITAL Proposed new intervention Mayor’s programme Business International menswear and womenswear international U promote to talks and showrooms designer shows, catwalk combine events London Fashion Weeks investment inward and export promote Great is Fashion Existing and planned activity the renaissance in productive capacity of the capital. the of capacity productive in renaissance the ‘Made in London’ R&D. and IP on focused offe export sponsored DIT UKFT with in tied be Could sectors. sciences life tec the in companies London-based selected of capacity export the track Outcome: provision and operators, internal internal operators, and provision steps: Next promote industrial areas. industrial promote c which initiatives developing experience GLA’s prior with linked and Busin for Mayor Deputy the by exploration in initiative London’ in ‘Made the potent industries, creative London within skill and craft technical cele London East in signage and showcasing, studios’ ‘open of Programme London Creative Fashion Capital platfor aweb into investment sector public past repurpose to Potential planned activity, above exis –see London’ in ‘Made and programme Business International Mayor’s Sign-posting, celebration and protection of industrial and craft he craft and industrial of protection and celebration Sign-posting, Concept development with key partners, mapping of existing festival festival existing of mapping key partners, with development Concept GLA and BFC in discussion in BFC and GLA Example partners include London Festival of Architecture, Hackney Hackney Architecture, of Festival London include partners Example - BFC and UKFT in partnership with DIT – international missions to to missions –international DIT with partnership in UKFT and - BFC - initiative being explored by Mayors Ofice over 2017 to showcase 2017 over showcase to Ofice Mayors by explored being -initiative – led by British Fashion Council, these focused, week long long week focused, these Council, Fashion British by – led

- London and Partners initiative to fast fast to initiative Partners and -London ially aligned with with aligned ially h, urban and and h, urban elebrate and and elebrate r – but r –but m for m for sance in in sance K and K and ritage ritage brating brating ting and and ting ess, ess, IV. IV. ‘affordable luxury’ could open up domestic and export markets. export and domestic up open could luxury’ ‘affordable suc sub-sectors in processes and materials these for applications new Leiceste Yorkshire, Manchester, in producers with Collaboration and Yorkshire. a in expertise, textiles technical and materials smart and factories, o the by offered innovation for opportunities of range the about informed manufacturer and designers that indings our relects textiles and tech f showcase anational create to plan action draft the within commitment The awhole. as economy UK the of competitiveness the beneit En of North and Midlands the in clusters industry textile and fashion other ‘ with approach ‘hub’ anational of the be to also but London for strategy sector del to only not potential has approach This UK. the in chain supply textile and capa production and innovation of development the support to looks also reg London the across and London, East in opportunities the on focuses ELFC apie such for acall seed usefully can Cluster Fashion London East an for plan The soluti of set aclear devise can and problems and issues the of understanding demonst together, come can industry an where only available research) de ‘sector or support of (BEIS) Strategy Industrial Modern draft recent th by impetus fresh given be could that something is This industry. fashion anat develop to need the highlighted have reports Fashion’ of BFC’s ‘Value UK the across beneits the Spreading asm of development the on 2018) focus will April (to activity Pre-launch I. Next steps:fourstageprocess 4.3 III. II. governance or programme. t changes any for need the indicate should Evaluation sustainability. identifyin in partners and board advisory strategic the assist to place sh ELFC of years three LCF, irst of the of evaluation relocation the Following identiiable entry point for local and UK businesses and international i international and businesses UK and local for point entry identiiable pro will Tech Showcase R&D Fashion The phase. pilot the of learning and gains 2021/22 over CED of consolid will establishment LCF of and relocation The investors. and businesses Fashion amongst ELFC of mission and vision reinf will London, East across activity existing to linked activity, of init An agreed. interventions other for timetable the and place, in be will F Fashion London 2018. the time, this By April for targeted is ELFC of launch The organisation cluster the to staff (or second) Recruit • company separate establish to funding Identify • • clusters UK other to links existing upon build and new Identify • • • Identify further development resource; consult more widely with in with widely more consult resource; development further Identify board, advisory astrategic Establish • • will: project pilot the period, this During ELFC. the of development d of capability the with board, advisory industry-led independent, an an governance own its with but Fashion of College London within incubated Develop communications strategy and marketing plan marketing and strategy Develop communications plan action and case business reine strategy, Refresh partners educational r and other clusters to ind ind to clusters other r and reas such as Lancashire Lancashire as such reas h as sportswear and and sportswear h as als’ (funds for skills and and skills for (funds als’ orce the presence, presence, the orce rate they have a clear aclear have they rate s are poorly poorly s are o its structure, structure, o its g its path to future future to path g its riving the the riving gland, that would would that gland, city the fashion fashion the city e offer in the the in e offer nvestors. utput of textiles textiles of utput ional plan for for plan ional dustry and and dustry all entity, entity, all ons. ons. ial programme programme ial iver a fashion afashion iver or Fashion- or ion – but it it –but ion spokes’ in in spokes’ ate the the ate d ould take take ould ce of work. work. of ce

vide an an vide und und 62 / 63 The East London Fashion Cluster 14/ 13/ Business,plan/HEFCE%20Business%20plan%2011%202%2015.pdf] http://www.hefce.ac.uk/media/hefce/content/about/How,we, Creating and the sustaining conditions for a higher world-leading e − − − 12/ − include: may plan sector aUK-wide of Beneits development. joint and exchange knowledge promote to Scotland Midl the across clusters with working ELFC with approach, spoke’ and ‘hub T industries. textile and fashion UK the across competitiveness drive glo and manufacturing digital innovation, in leadership London’s by t harness would regions, UK other in organisations cluster and employers C Fashion British with partnership in developed plan, sector A national − − − − Section 4Footnotes Section

https://www.disabilityinnovation.com/

Fashion United, 2016. https://fashionunited.uk/uk-fashion- https://w Higher Education Funding Council for England (2015). Busin England for Council Funding Education Higher https://w UK retailers UK through the London cluster, particularly for R&D and innovation and R&D for particularly cluster, London the through a resource technical knowledge, access to Midlands and North the across exchange Knowledge boundaries Technology transfer programmes by skills funding agencies and other public authorities ac authorities public other and agencies funding skills by programmes Eficiencies Scale Onshoring single region. single tha rather awhole, as sector fashion the in employment for opportunities Retention and attraction single most important factor in decisions location about factor single important most mass Critical international competitors. international th than faster is UK the and London in growth sector that evidence and value; and i exports 6%; of base increasing current its (GVA) from share market retail growth Measurable - local producers and service providers have access to a wider market awider to access have providers service and producers -local – demonstrate capacity to fulil latent demand for local production amon production local for demand latent fulil to capacity – demonstrate obtained through joint planning and support for industry-wide industry-wide for support and planning joint through obtained of talent for inward investors – availability of a skilled workforce is the the is workforce a skilled of –availability investors inward for talent of demonstrated by UK increasing fashion’s demonstrated domestic combined between irms and the knowledge base, and across sector sector across and base, knowledge the and irms between - collaboration increases the capacity of the combined sectors sectors combined the of capacity the increases -collaboration of talent enhanced by increasing the visibility of of visibility the increasing by enhanced talent of operate/Corporate,planning/ industry-statistics ducation system. ess plan 2015-2020; 2015-2020; plan ess bal market access to to access market bal his is envisaged as a as envisaged is his ouncil, UKFT, and UKFT, and ouncil, he potential offered offered potential he ands, North and and North ands, ross the country the ross

n volume n volume n those in a in n those nd investment investment nd at of of at

gst gst Shoot by Bianca Guthrie BA Hons Fashion Styling and Photography and Styling Fashion Hons BA Guthrie Bianca by Shoot 64 / 65 TECHNICAL APPENDIXThe East London Fashion Cluster Mapping FashionActivity Appendix A 66 / 67 The East London Fashion Cluster progress rather the complete rather progress mapping. in awork considered be should and Enield) and Haringey (including region London East the within facilities related fashion into glimpse airst presents it such, As study. this of part organisations stakeholder by supplied information 2015) with along Consulting (Regeneris Evidence Technical and Strategy Whitechapel: Enterprising from data by supplemented research desk-top using undertaken was mapping This London. East in sector fashion the supporting facilities and institutions useful of range highlights map This Infrastructure Supportive 68 / 69 The East London Fashion Cluster Supportive Infrastructure Infrastructure Supportive 69 68 67 66 65 64 63 62 61 59 58 57 56 54 53 52 51 50 49 48 47 46 45 44 43 42 40 39 38 36 35 34 33 30 29 27 25 24 23 21 20 19 18 17 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Map_ID Cover-Tex Ltd Advance Ltd Apparel Fashions UKCapricorn Ltd Ltd Textiles Wagland Ltd Jersey Just Ltd Embroidery Protech Ltd (UK) 2000 Routine Ltd London of Dolana You ILove IThink Down Lie Components K &Shoe Ltd Creme La De Ltd Fashionhart TrimmingsViktoria Ltd New Planet Fashions Ltd Ltd Cuts Classic The Apparel Company Studio NThread Needle London undercover Iniva (Institute of International Visual Arts) Fish Island Labs Ltd Company Clothing Verve Textiles Butt Z. U&I Trimmings Mermaid Fabrics HC.Bhopal Fabrics Mill Dalston Ltd Quilting Abbey TURA Triple Stitched Shirts EndEast Manufacturing Drakes ties Mensewar Bull and Cock Atelier Blackhorse Footwear Gamba Theatrical Maderite Ltd Alda Works Fashion FASHION basecamp Forum Fashion Ethical Ltd Sons and Bashir Metropolitan Works, Works Cass London College of Fashion London School Fashion Marangoni Istituto Innovation Centre, London Metropolitan University East Fashion Final Touch Clothing Textiles Ao Heba Market Watney Store Ideas Programmes Textiles and Fashion Whitechapel Store Ideas Programmes Textiles and Fashion Bow Store Ideas Programmes Textiles and Fashion Stitcher The Thrifty Fabrications Innovation Centre Designer–Manufacturer Support The Sampling Studio Workhouse Whitechapel Shadiye Designs of London Ltd Name Textiles/Fabrics/Accessories Import/Export/Wholesale facility Manufacturing Textiles/Fabrics/Accessories Textiles/Fabrics/Accessories Textiles/Fabrics/Accessories facility Manufacturing facility Manufacturing facility Manufacturing facility Manufacturing facility Manufacturing facility Manufacturing Import/Export/Wholesale facility Manufacturing facility Manufacturing facility Manufacturing facility Manufacturing facility Manufacturing /Workshop Space Co-working Facility Warehousing Textiles/Fabrics/Accessories Textiles/Fabrics/Accessories Textiles/Fabrics/Accessories Textiles/Fabrics/Accessories Textiles/Fabrics/Accessories Textiles/Fabrics/Accessories facility Manufacturing facility Manufacturing facility Manufacturing facility Manufacturing facility Manufacturing facility Manufacturing facility Manufacturing facility Manufacturing facility Manufacturing Network Industry Network Industry Network Industry Import/Export/Wholesale HEI HEI HEI HEI Network Industry / Logistics Distribution consultancy Design Facilities /FE Training Facilities /FE Training Facilities /FE Training Facilities /FE Training Facilities /FE Training Atelier/Studio Business Support Sampling Unit Atelier/Studio Atelier/Studio Atelier/Studio Type E10 7DE E10 7BT E10 7QL E10 6DP E17 7BT E10 7QP E10 5RB E17 7QE E10 E2 8AN 7QZ E10 7QG E10 6SH E17 6BU E17 3EY E11 1EQ E1 3SE E8 5QJ E1 6QR E1 3BA EC2A 2NQ E3 1SJ EN1 6RF E1 E8 2NH 1HR E8 6RL E1 3NP E8 RM8 1ES E8 2BT 4SA EN3 4PN E1 6BS N1 6EH E2 6AA E17 8DJ E4 6JB E2 E8 2DJ 6QL E1 2ND SE1 6LA E1 E1 6SA 1JE E1 3RE E8 6PX E1 6SQ EC2M 6QL E1 3QT N18 7PR SE7 6RU E1 E1 2FB 1BU E1 5ES E3 9HS N16 4PH E8 3RE E8 6QL E1 1JE E1 0LH N16 4DG E8 Postcode Southwark Tower Hamlets Tower Hamlets Tower Hamlets Hackney Tower Hamlets London of City Tower Hamlets Enield Greenwich Tower Hamlets Tower Hamlets Tower Hamlets Tower Hamlets Hackney Hackney Hackney Tower Hamlets Tower Hamlets Hackney Hackney Borough Waltham Forest Waltham Forest Waltham Forest Waltham Forest Waltham Forest Waltham Forest Waltham Forest Waltham Forest Hackney Waltham Forest Waltham Forest Waltham Forest Waltham Forest Waltham Forest Tower Hamlets Hackney Tower Hamlets Tower Hamlets Hackney Tower Hamlets Enield Tower Hamlets Hackney Hackney Tower Hamlets Hackney Dagenham and Barking Hackney Enield Tower Hamlets Hackney Tower Hamlets Waltham Forest Waltham Forest Tower Hamlets Hackney Tower Hamlets Pipeline 82 81 80 79 78 77 76 75 72 71 70 Fashioning Poplar Enter Fashion Riverside -Stratford Fashion of College London UKLondoneast - Film Studio Newham College Building Bloqs FFGM Gee William FabLab London Lab Textile Nike Academy -Stitch Walk Hackney Co-working Space /Workshop Space Co-working Facilities /FE Training HEI HEI /Workshop Space Co-working facility Manufacturing Textiles/Fabrics/Accessories /Workshop Space Co-working &Development Research /Workshop Space Co-working E14 1LZ N4 E20 RM10 7XS E6 6ER 3QT N18 6DE E6 4AR E8 8AE EC2R E8 6LH E9 Tower Hamlets Haringey Newham Dagenham and Barking Newham Enield Newham Hackney London of City Hackney Hackney Yes Yes Yes 70 / 71 The East London Fashion Cluster sourced from Local Data Company 2015. Company Data Local from sourced data GLA existing using generated was map the major); and district (metropolitan, centres town designated onto overlaid activity retail fashion in intensity of areas identiies map This Retail clusters 72 / 73 The East London Fashion Cluster Retail Clusters 59 58 57 56 55 54 53 52 51 50 49 48 47 46 45 44 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Map_ID Finsbury Park Finsbury Town Enield Edmonton Green Crouch End Road High Grove/Tottenham Bruce NAME Sidcup Romford West Road Roman Roman Road East Rainham Chingford North New Gate Cross New Cross Leytonstone Leyton Lewisham Lee Green Ilford Hornchurch Highams Park Hill Harold Hackney Central Greenwich West Centre Town Street Green Green Lane Hill Gants Hill Forest Gate Forest Erith Eltham East Ham East Greenwich Downham Deptford Dalston Crossharbour Crayford Row Collier Chrisp Street Heath Chadwell Catford Town Canning Wharf Canary Bromley-by-Bow Brick Lane Blackheath Bexleyheath Bethnal Green Beckton Town Centre Barkingside Arms Bakers Wood Green Sisters Road/Seven Green West Upper Edmonton Southgate Palmers Green Hill Muswell Green Lanes Greenwich Newham Greenwich Lewisham Lewisham Hackney Tower Hamlets Bexley Havering Tower Hamlets Redbridge Dagenham/ and Barking Lewisham Newham Tower Hamlets Tower Hamlets Tower Hamlets Lewisham Bexley Tower Hamlets Newham Redbridge Waltham Forest Haringey Haringey Enield Enield Enield Haringey Haringey Islington Hackney/Haringey/ Enield Enield Haringey Haringey BOROUGH Bexley Havering Tower Hamlets Tower Hamlets Havering Waltham Forest Lewisham Lewisham Waltham Forest Waltham Forest Lewisham Lewisham Redbridge Havering Waltham Forest Havering Hackney Greenwich Newham Dagenham and Barking Redbridge Lewisham Newham Bexley

Major Town Centre Town Major Centre Town Major Centre Town District Centre Town District Centre Town District Centre Town Major Centre Town District Potential Centre Town District Centre Town District Centre Town District Centre Town District Centre Town Major Centre Town District Centre Town Major Centre Town District Potential Centre Town District Centre Town District Centre Town Major Centre Town District Centre Town District Centre Town District Centre Town District Metropolitan Town Centre Centre Town District Centre Town District Centre Town District Centre Town District Centre Town District Centre Town District Centre Town District Centre Town Major Centre Town District Centre Town District Centre Town District TYPE District Town Centre Town District Metropolitan Town Centre Centre Town District Centre Town District Centre Town District Centre Town District Centre Town District Centre Town District Centre Town District Centre Town District Centre Town Major Centre Town District Metropolitan Town Centre Centre Town District Centre Town District Potential Centre Town District Centre Town District Centre Town District Centre Town District Centre Town District Centre Town District Centre Town District Centre Town District Centre Town District TCHC 2009 Layer 2009 TCHC 2012/13 Borough by Supplied 2012/13 Borough by Supplied 2012/13 Borough by Supplied 2012/13 Borough by Supplied 2012/13 Borough by Supplied 2012/13 Borough by Supplied 2012/13 Borough by Supplied 2012/13 Borough by Supplied 2012/13 Borough by Supplied PDF from GLA by Captured 2012/13 Borough by Supplied 2012/13 Borough by Supplied 2012/13 Borough by Supplied 2012/13 Borough by Supplied 2012/13 Borough by Supplied 2012/13 Borough by Supplied Layer 2009 TCHC 2012/13 Borough by Supplied 2012/13 Borough by Supplied 2012/13 Borough by Supplied 2012/13 Borough by Supplied 2012/13 Borough by Supplied Layer 2009 TCHC Layer 2009 TCHC 2012/13 Borough by Supplied Layer 2009 TCHC 2012/13 Borough by Supplied 2012/13 Borough by Supplied 2012/13 Borough by Supplied 2012/13 Borough by Supplied Layer 2009 TCHC 2012/13 Borough by Supplied 2012/13 Borough by Supplied B&D slight amends. 2012/13, Borough by Supplied Both 2012/13 Borough by Supplied 2012/13 Borough by Supplied 2012/13 Borough by Supplied 2012/13 Borough by Supplied 2012/13 Borough by Supplied 2012/13 Borough by Supplied Layer 2009 TCHC 2012/13 Borough by Supplied 2012/13 Borough by Supplied 2012/13 Borough by Supplied 2012/13 Borough by Supplied 2012/13 Borough by Supplied 2012/13 Borough by Supplied Provided by Borough 2012/13 Provided by Borough 2012/13 Provided by Borough 2012/13 2012/13 Borough by Supplied 2012/13 Borough by Supplied layer. TCHC 2009 from 2012/13. Haringey Borough by Supplied Hackney&Islington Provided by Borough 2012/13 Provided by Borough 2012/13 2012/13 Borough by Supplied 2012/13 Borough by Supplied SOURCE 77 76 75 74 73 72 71 70 69 68 67 66 65 64 63 62 61 60 Map_ID Dagenham Heathway Dagenham Barking Woolwich Street Wood Whitechapel Street Wentworth Welling Watney Market Wanstead Walthamstow Upminster Thamesmead Sydenham Stratford Street High Newington Stoke Street Church Newington Stoke South Woodford South Chingford NAME Barking and Dagenham and Barking Dagenham and Barking Greenwich Waltham Forest Tower Hamlets Tower Hamlets Bexley Tower Hamlets Redbridge Waltham Forest Havering Greenwich Lewisham Newham Hackney Hackney Redbridge Waltham Forest BOROUGH District Town Centre Town District Centre Town Major Centre Town Major Centre Town District Centre Town District Frontage CAZ Centre Town District Centre Town District Centre Town District Centre Town Major Centre Town District Centre Town District Centre Town District Metropolitan Town Centre Centre Town District Centre Extension Town District Potential Centre Town District Centre Town District TYPE Supplied by Borough 2012/13 Borough by Supplied Layer 2009 TCHC Layer 2009 TCHC 2012/13 Borough by Supplied 2012/13 Borough by Supplied 2012/13 Borough by Supplied Layer 2009 TCHC 2012/13 Borough by Supplied 2012/13 Borough by Supplied 2012/13 Borough by Supplied 2012/13 Borough by Supplied Layer 2009 TCHC 2012/13 Borough by Supplied 2012/13 Borough by Supplied 2012/13 Borough by Supplied GLA by Digitised 2012/13 Borough by Supplied 2012/13 Borough by Supplied SOURCE 74 / 75 The East London Fashion Cluster distribution. re for numbers the in relected already is value added that but consumers, and wholesa of decisions buying the in felt also is design of impact the course, Of London. East in designers of number the fo the in experts industry from statements by supported was estimate This her shown numbers the at Valley arrive to Lea Upper and London East of boroughs 74.10 under employment B in total to 33.3% of ascalar applied We therefore have 74.10 code desig (specialised classiication industrial standard 15,100 Lon shows in available) employees recent 2015 for most (the data BRES capital. the in designers 5 of aigure us give -to cities UK other and DIT for marketing investment inward for employ derive to used professionals creative skilled of sample awider on estim – an LinkedIn to subscribe designers 70% fashion of that assumed have o adirect as makes that contribution the and design fashion in employment of t (over 3,500) LinkedIn on ‘London’ as location their giving designers’ self-decla of number the including proxies, of anumber We used have design. f to approach method’ a‘mixed taking by study our in this address to We tried have data. sample the in appear case any in not would and businesses as registered individual of anumber that account into take to need We GVA. of also estimates g to then and designers; fashion are who those disaggregate accurately to i records, individual of inspection Without design. product other and desi fashion only not include level anational ‘design’ at for statistics UK the in designers fashion of number the for source oficial single no is There design fashion of contribution the deining for statement Method environment. and technology pol the in threats potential and industry fashion the in trends establish horizo of process the of part as used was This resources. online and articles publ existing of review desk-based extensive an by informed is study This mov increasingly is creation value that impression the particularly fa the in trends relected it if see to workforce London East the within kinds all distr the at analyse -to sectors business particular of concentrations ind which LQs, or quotients, location –using BRES from data analysed We also (either manufacturing distribution, section industry broader producti :national local of ratio the on based adjusted were results these L each For (ABS). Survey 2015 Business the Annual from results to according s each in trends national on based (GVA worker) per productivity assumed an est (GVA) was Value Added Gross VOF-equivalent. was that sub-sector the estim to applied was factor ascaling cases, such In industry. fashion the of compat than activities of range abroader contained sub-sectors these c In Council. Fashion British the of behalf on study (VOF) Fashion” of “Value Econo Oxford in used sector fashion the of deinition the on based was codes SIC Dist Authority Local relevant the across sectors (SIC) Classiication I Standard 4-digit relevant in employment headcount for (BRES) Survey an Register Business the from sourced data by underpinned are results Our effects –employment fashion of contribution the Measuring Methodology Appendix B or services). professional n, including fashion designers). designers). fashion n, including ing East. East. ing ricts (LADs). The choice of of choice The (LADs). ricts gn but graphic design design graphic but gn ibution of designers of of designers of ibution t would be impossible impossible be t would o reine our estimates estimates our o reine itical, economic, social social economic, itical, ible with this deinition deinition this with ible ndustrial ndustrial ment estimates estimates ment vity in the relevant relevant the in vity ications, scholarly scholarly ications, ate the share of of share the ate o on to make make to o on imated using using imated cus groups about about groups cus n scanning to to n scanning d Employment d Employment ertain cases, cases, ertain AD sub-sector, sub-sector, AD ub-sector, ub-sector, ate based based ate lers, retailers retailers lers, shion sector, sector, shion red ‘fashion ‘fashion red utput. We utput. . Employment . Employment tail and and tail icate relative relative icate don under under don s may not be be not s may RES for the the for RES mics’ study study mics’ e. ashion ashion ,000 ,000 East London and Upper Lea Valley Total Valley Lea Upper and London East London Total %of as Valley Lea Upper and London East London Total Area London Total East London and Upper Lea Valley Total Valley Lea Upper and London East London Total %of as Valley Lea Upper and London East East London Total Total London East East London Total Total London East East London and Upper Lea Valley Total Valley Lea Upper and London East East London Total Total London East London Total %of as Valley Lea Upper and London East London Total East London and Upper Lea Valley Total Valley Lea Upper and London East East London Total Total London East London Total %of as Valley Lea Upper and London East London Total East London and Upper Lea Valley Total Valley Lea Upper and London East East London Total Total London East London Total %of as Valley Lea Upper and London East London Total London Total East London and Upper Lea Valley Total Valley Lea Upper and London East East London Total Total London East London Total %of as Valley Lea Upper and London East Baseline data Appendix C 131,300 22,300 25,300 93,500 19,300 13,900 7 00 60 17, 11,700 ,0 3,800 3,800 2,000 3,300 3,500 ,0 2,900 2,900 2010 10% 28% 19% 19% 17% 17% 400 600 500 0 0 0 Employment 159,700 1,00 117,10 36,200 23,800 28,200 32013 13,200 20,700 24,900 6,400 3,600 1,000 5,100 2015 23% 49% 21% 21% 16% 600 900 100 9%

2010 - 2015 - 2010 % change % change 44 46 43 22 32 39 32 25 97 42 49 75 78 67 0 7 2 Manufacture Distribution Advertising Design Retail Total 00(m 2015 (£m) 2010 (£m) 4,363.5 2,455.3 1,198.1 900.7 700.3 450.0 393.4 209.5 201.3 481.3 113.5 187.6 42.7 18% 26% 24% 17% 4 13% 14% 21% 27.5 73.1 51.5 3.5 3.6 5,644.5 3,450.8 1,284.8 1,417.0 1,119.4 233.3 0. 103 102.3 658.9 728.7 210.0 509.4 155.4 255.9 341.0 30% 50% 58.4 25% 18% 21% 87.8 7.2 7.5 GVA 2010 - 2015 - 2010 % change % change 40.5 106 105 128 110 113 113 60 68 29 62 57 69 12 11 7 6 76 / 77 The East London Fashion Cluster attended all three workshops. three all attended Enterp Fashion for LCF at Centre mentor and (a Toby tutor Texnet) and Meadows Mi Bill experts industry fashion and Cullen, Alanah manager LCF project Focus group participants Appendix D Anne Malcolm Anne Armstrong Charles Mansell Adam Cast Annette Consultant Balmer Stuart Drinkwater Matthew Daliah Simble Alice Burkitt Mika Nash Michelle de Conto de Michelle 2-Skills Workshop EllisAnna 1-Manufacturing Workshop Anne Malcolm Anne Orobvio Alfredo Andrew Sissons Lau Susie TrevorStuart Media and Distribution 3-Retail, Workshop Town Centre Manager Founder CEO Principal Deputy Adviser Business Head Consultant Co-founder Business Advisor Business Manager Production Hackney Central Hackney Manager, Town Centre Founder Director Strategy Founder Founder London Borough of Hackney Hackney of Borough London The Trampery UKFT Newham College Centre Business Small London Agency Innovation Fashion Simble Consulting UKFT Insley & Nash British FashionBritish Council Enterprise Fashion for LCF Centre London Borough of Hackney Hackney of Borough London Mars to Away WalkHackney StyleBubble Saints All lls (Founder of of (Founder lls rise) rise) Joshua Dedman and Patrizia Casadei of BOP Consulting Consulting BOP of Casadei Patrizia and Dedman Joshua B Iain Owens, Paul by 2016, 24 facilitated on November was held workshop, The Scenario planningworkshop Appendix E alAgrePoplar HARCA Vanessa Podmore Toby Meadows Simon Brereton Paul Augarde Olivia Tusinski Michelle May Drinkwater Matthew Linda Roberts Harmen Kit Dunne Kirsten Judith Rosser-Davies Jamie Dean McNerney Jackie Organisation Gavin Poole Corner Frances VenningEdward Claire Cockerton Rush Caroline Jobson Anna Cullen Alanah Mansell Adam Participant Burberry expert Independent industry Council City Leeds GLA LLDC LCF LCF Plexal GLA FashionBritish Council GLA GLA Here East LCF LCF Plexal FashionBritish Council LCF LCF &Textile Association Fashion UK ennett, ennett, 78 / 79 The East London Fashion Cluster Notes on New York and Istanbul studies Istanbul York New and on Notes Other casestudyindings Appendix F Capital Commercial Fashion New York Case study East LondonFashionCluster

New YorkManufacture does notdisplaceexistingmanufacturing. ensure thecreationofnewproductionspace Proposal toincludea“lookback”provision be usedforproduction. Stipulation that17%ofthenewbuildingsmust balance manufacturingandcreativeoffice uses. of an“EnhancedBusiness Area” (EBA ),to New York CityPlanninghasproposedcreation Taking theplanninglead-EBA

designers andmanufacturers aportalfor “MadeinNYFashion.nyc”, from $5millionto$10million. double investmentin“MadeNY”program, innovative newtextilesandmaterials. research organisation)andMIT todevelop $315m programmefromDARPA (USdefence established inBrooklyn–backedpartbya Manufacture NY ( First initiativeoftheprogrammeislaunch February 2015:mayoralannouncementto www.manufactureny.com

) New York fashionindustry: Indirect benefits Planned initiatives

stores annually 500,000 visitorstowholesaleshowroom’s and $72 billiongeneratedinwholesalesales Contributes $2billionintax Generates $10billioninannualwages Contributes 4.8%ofcitytotalworkforce Employs 173,000 Fashion Designersof America Manufacturing InitiativerunbytheCoalitionof Fund, aloanprogramandtheFashion explore “advancedtechnologies” students Continued findingfor:FashionProduction Exhibition funding Digital productionplatform A productionsummitevent Seed fundingtohelpexistingcompanies Fully fundedinternshipandscholarshipfor 80 / 81 The East London Fashion Cluster http://comms.cushmanwakeield.com/3ce5?_ga=1.21864443.11 (2016). & Wakeield &Shakers. Movers Cushman Treasury UK’s strengt the on building Business: in Creativity of Review G(2005). 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