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452 Ku,uul' and Kal' in a Ooupe manifest themselves. The addict becomes dull, sullen and morose, and inclined to outbursts of ungovernable fury. He goes downhill, mentally and physically, with alarming rapidity, only to wind up in a lunatic asylum or charity hospital and then-the potter's field. They die very hard deaths-despite their amemic, emaciated condition they cling desperately to life-struggling hideously to live, and will often continue to breathe long after a normal individual would have died peacefully. Amongst addicts and in criminal slang, cocaine is variously called 11 coke," "foolish powder" and most commonly" snow." Cocainists are -" cokeys " or "snow birds." The drug is irregularly sold in small folded papers containing one sniff. It is almost always adulterated with sugar of milk, talc or othe~ harmless substance, and sometimes with un slaked lime.

• guest. Protected by copyright. ~ra~el.

KULTUR AND KUR IN A COUPE. By u. P. A. (Continued from p. 381.)

A Chakkar.-Next morning we started to explore Southern Wiirtem­ berg, Hohenzollern and Upper Schwabia. "What," you say, "all in one day?" Yes: because Hohenzollern is in south Wiirtemberg, and south Wiirtem­ berg is in Upper Schwabia. http://militaryhealth.bmj.com/ The busiest man in Germany must be the lVIinister for Fatherland Nomenclature. lVIarkdorrf stands at the entrance to the foothills of the Schwabian Mountains. Here the coupe picked up a nail; a lucky puncture, for no sooner were we in the shelter of a garage than the rain came down in torrents. The owner of the garage was a middle-aged man possessed of a splendid physique, a knowledge of America, three sons and a daughter. He had been a stoker on the Hamburg-Amerika Line, and still kept up a newspaper

acquaintanceship with the New vVorld. I felt nervous when I saw that on September 30, 2021 by his favourite news sheet was a Christian Scientist publication: you can't mend a puncture on Faith. However, while he explained to us all about baseball and lVIrs. Eddy, his boys made a good job of the tyre, and the daughter polished the coupe's b~jght parts: charge, one mark. I added a second for the youngsters' benefit, and we departed in a shower of thanks and aufwiedersehens. We lunched on eggs, brown bread, butter and beer in the bar-parlour J R Army Med Corps: first published as 10.1136/jramc-50-06-07 on 1 June 1928. Downloaded from

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of the Gasthalls Zum Krone-the best hotel in Markdorrf. Our arrival created a sensation. 'l'he landlady was nonplussed and her clients~a very bucolic collection-were dumbfounded. Georgina's sang {roid, backed up by my honest appetite, gradually dispelled their astonishment and, I hope, compelled their admiration. A handsome cockatoo was perched on the railings in front of an ancient tower. He gave us an amusing lesson in parrot-German. The rain did not seem to worry him at all. The coupe climbed through woods and vineyards, passed out of the wet belt into brilliant sunshine and entered the old town of Ravensburg. 'l'his place contains some fine mediawal buildings and is dominated by the ninth­ century Veitsburg Castle, the ancestral house of the Guelphs. , From here is It short run to Weingarten, another delightful old place. It shelters under a big Benedictine monastery, to which is attached a pilgrimage church. Externally and internally the church is a splendid example of ecclesiastical decorative work. It possesses the sacred reiic of

the Holy Blood, in connexion with which a "famous procession takes place guest. Protected by copyright. every year, on the day foHowing Ascension. :E'ields of corn filled the valleys: vines covered the slopes of the hills -and great patches of forest clothed the heights. Good roads, alternating sunshine and shadow, and a fresh breeze combined to bless the journey. Villages and hamlets were picturesque and full of colour, and the peasant folk greeted us with cheery smiles and salutations as the coupe flashed by. Georgina-at-the-wheel always caused a perfect epidemic of hat-doffing which, when the coupe was running slowly, was, I think, accentuated by my republican tie. As a matter of fact, it was an inn-ocent regimental tie; but the red-gold-navy blue was so like Fritz's red-gold­ black, that he may be forgiven for mistaking me for an enthusiastic partisan of the Reich. Nor, on discovering my real identity, did he ever seem to http://militaryhealth.bmj.com/ bear me any ill-will. In this matter of national emblems, and in view of what one reads in the newspapers, Fritz's attitude is most puzzling. You will find a town or v,iHage hidden under a canopy of republican flags; another smothered in the old flags of the monarchy; others bright with the colours of Baden, Wiirtemburg, Hohenzollern or Bavaria as the case may be. More common is it to ,find a riotous mixture of all sorts. We had no opportunity of discovering for ourselves the opinions of

professional politicians and soldiers; but apart from their views, it on September 30, 2021 by appeared to us that in Germany flf),gs are just flags. ' The provincial flag satisfies local pride; the monarchal standard supplies a touch of sentiment; the republican emblem makes a fine splash. So far as we could judge, the average man is quite contfmt with the present regime, but, as he would say, ALL the flags of the Fatherland are good to look upon. Hoist up the lot! J R Army Med Corps: first published as 10.1136/jramc-50-06-07 on 1 June 1928. Downloaded from

454 KUlt~~T and J(~{T in a Conpe

We left Altshausen and Ostrach behind and pulled up in a grassy glade in the middle ofa forest of giant pines. We were .hungry. Appetite transformed the bread, cheese and beer into a regal banquet. A little, fat, red-faced man, bearing a big rucksack and pushing a cycle, toiled up the hill. With an elaborate flourish he raised his Homburg from off his perspiring, bald head, and bowed. We exchanged the customary greetings. and, as that exhausted my conversational German, he turned to Georgina and said, "May I inquire where you are going, madam?" " Hither and thither, wherever the spirit moves." " Himmel! On the bummel? I, too, am a bummler. Do you like it?" "It is altogether delightful :we love it," " Ach! So?" The little man fairly boiled over with excitement and pleasure. 11 Ach! So? That is very good, splendid, admirable! Ya.

Have you sem} Sigmaringen '? " guest. Protected by copyright. No: we had not. 'l'here followed a description of Sigmaringen by a red-hot enthusiast. 'l'he little man spread his maps and showed us the route. His sincere appreciation of the beauties of his native land and his animated.manner carried us away. " Then you will go?" "Yes-and now," auswered Georgina, decisively. 'l'he little man was delighted. He mounted his bike and we parted with many expressions of mutual goodwill. But they were all like that. When they found you were British, that you were sight-seeing and that you considered Germany a beautiful country, no trouble was too much for them to take on your behalf. Hence, we never made any arrangements in advance, for the wayside bummler, the http://militaryhealth.bmj.com/ hotel proprietor and the policeman were our guidebooks from day to day. From them you learn of the best roads, the most picturesque places and most comfortable hotels, and they are all map-reading experts. We passed through Pfullendorf and then over a first-class road; thi:o,ugh miles of great deer-parks and forests into Sigmaringen, the ancestral home of the Hohenzollerns. This is an attractive little town. Below it the Danube flows through a pastoral valley which is broken on the right bank by a huge, rocky bluff.

'l'his majestic feature is crowned by the Hohenzollern Castle-an en­ on September 30, 2021 by chanting building. Surely it is the very castle in which The Sleeping Beauty awaited her Prince's magic kiss. In his estimate of Sigmaringen the little 'fat man was right.

Back to the Lake and F01·est.-The coupe climbed out of the valley to about 2,200 feet and sped southwards :over the rolling hills. J R Army Med Corps: first published as 10.1136/jramc-50-06-07 on 1 June 1928. Downloaded from

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At Messkirch, away on the left, a great monastery on a ridge. was outlined against the evening sky. At Wald a mediooval schloss guarded the road. A long, steep hill into Uberlingen on the Boden See ended the day's run: mileage, 102: At the hotel we were looked after by a waiter who understood English perfectly but who could not, or would not, speak it. He was most attentive, foresaw our every want and was an adept in supplying the little things that matter. His motto was "British home comforts first!" Another ex·P.O.W., I am sure. After dinner we sat in the hotel garden-which ran down to the shore of the lake-and watched the western sky change through a wonder~ul series of colours, until the moon rose and flooded laud and water in a silvery sheen. Presently a uniformed brass band arrived for the bi-weekly Kur Konzert. "Ve retired: but it, and the crowd, kept us awake for a long time. Mozart

-Don JU(1.n, I think-finished me. Georgina survived that and was guest. Protected by copyright. eventually hypnotized by a Waldteufel wal~ It was not a bad band-but it was not a good one. Route on July 23 :- Ludwigshaven, at northern end of theUberlinger See. Across country, on a wretched road, to the shore of the Zellel' See, skirting Radolfzell: height, 1,200 feet. Via Singen, Hilzingen and Blumenfeld to Thengen,* seventeen miles from Radolfzell ; height 1,960 feet. '1'0 Weizen (1,420 feet)-thirteen miles. To Bonn4or£* (2,600 feet)-ten miles. Thence by Glasshutte to Dresselbueh*-five miles. Finally, into Schluchsee (2,900 feet)-one mile. Total distance, http://militaryhealth.bmj.com/ seventy-two miles. Passes have to be negotiated at the places marked with an asterisk. Twice, on difficult stretches of road, we were headed off by " Strasse Gesperrt." Once we were chased by a swarm of angry wasps . . On the summit of the Thengen Pass we were stopped by a couple of German motorists whose car had run out of petrol: We went back to Blum:enfeld and' fetched a'tin . . Fritz and Hans were so full of gratitude that they forgot to pay.

This drive was hard on the coupe: bad going, steep gradients and a hot, on September 30, 2021 by sultry day. But the scenery was varied and beautiful, and the views from the hilltops were superb. Nevertheless-and although the car behaved splendidly-the next time we visit Schluchsee by motor we will take the circular road via Lenzkirch: the route which we followed was fit only for bummlers on foot. Arrived at the hotel, mine host made inquiries of his men before he would believe that we had travelled by Glasshutte and Dresselbiich. J R Army Med Corps: first published as 10.1136/jramc-50-06-07 on 1 June 1928. Downloaded from

456 K~{ltUT and KuJ' in a Ooupe

The old porter was quite proud of our feat. In former days he had been employed ih Queen Victoria's residence at Monaco. _ In the evening a trio of bummlers-a girl and two youths-in the Bavarian mountaineers' dress, gave a concert consisting of folk songs, dances and zither playing. It was an excellent show: so good that I think the artistes must have been professionals. During one of the items the elder lad improvised verses in which various members of the audience were chaffed in a good-natured way. Attention was drawn to the fact that the top of my head is as innocent of hair as a well polished plate. The audience cheered. We spent the morning of July 24 cleaning and overhauling the coupe. Before we could get at her a big German touring car had to be moved out of the shed. This car got out of control, ran down a steep bank, and crashed into a heavy farm wagon. Fortunately the latter stood firm as, otherwise, there was nothing to stop the tourer from careering down the

mountain side and being dashed to pieces on the rocks 300, or more, feet. guest. Protected by copyright. below. German cars are powerful and well-built, but they are heavy, clumsy and ugly. Our coupe' was an unfailing attraction to Fritz, who has nothing like the graceful, high efficiency, British light car. He would say: "Rolls- 'Royce, hein ?" and then proceed to a minute examination of everything. Motor experts were particularly appreciative and inquisitive, and used to fill their notebooks with as many details as time would permit; but the absence of the Rolls-Royce name-plate worried them. It seems that, in Germany, a good British car mt£st be a Rolls-Royce. , We rambled through the woods. As we were approaching an open glade I noticed a flash of brown in the green undergrowth. I clutched http://militaryhealth.bmj.com/ Georgina's wrist and we stood stock still. A deer walked into the glade, surveyed the scene, llOsed about for' a bit, lay down and slept! It is extraordinary that the animal neither saw nor scented us, for we were only a few yards away. Despite the fascination of it all we could not stand immovable forever; we tiptoed forward, the deer leaped to its feet, watched us for full fifteen seconds and, with a graceful bound, disappeared. On several occasions we saw deer on the roads; generally in the morning or evening, when silently winding downhill through the forests.

It was a pretty sight to come suddenly on these graceful animals; they on September 30, 2021 by never seem to gauge the speed of the car and you are close on them before they clear the wall or ditch and dash to cover. Next morning mine host----'-a merry, plump little person-sped us with, " Officier anglais? Bon! C'est reclame pour la maison." French was never spoken until I had failed to understand their German and they had failed to make themselves understood in English. J R Army Med Corps: first published as 10.1136/jramc-50-06-07 on 1 June 1928. Downloaded from

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The road descended steeply to the lake, a beautiful sheet of water enclosed by fine mountains. The neighbourhood of Schluchsee is the best part of the Southem Schwarzwald: except. for the absence of heather it resembles the wilder tracts of the Scottish Highlands. Via the Blasiwald and Schwarzhalden Valley we reached St. Blasien where, in the ninth century, St. Blasius founded a Benedictine monastery. The present Renaissance church has a fine cupola which, however, is out of harmony with the surroundillg fir-clad hillB. - The town stands at 2,400 feet. It is a popular Kur resqrt and noted for winter sports. , A new motor road has been opened down the left bank of the Alb to the Rhine. It is like parts of the Jhelum Valley road; cut on the faces of perpendicular cliffs, threaded through numerous rock-tunnels and, on the the oft-side, bounded by a low wall which, if you drive with care, prevents you from dropping into the torrent which bubbles and boils many feet below. guest. Protected by copyright. At Albriick the coupe was turned west, up the right bank of the Rhine. The Rhine, from Bingen to Coblenz, with its numerous ruined schlosses, picturesque villages and such features as the Pfalz and Lorelei, is justly famed in picture, song and story. It is the haunt of the tourist and the mainstay of propaganda. But for natural riverain beauty it cannot compare with the stretch along the Swiss border from Waldshut to Rheinfelden. Passing through Klein and Lautenberg we arrived at Sackingen. The town was en jete and we were held up by a procession consisting of all the fire brigades for miles around. This seems to be the season of the year for holding fire-fighting competitions; they were in progress all over South Germany. http://militaryhealth.bmj.com/ Most of the firemen wear medals and decorations which probably were not all earned in peace time. The brigades move in military formation with bands playing and banners flying. In connection with these competitions athletic sports, including Association football, are arranged by the local clubs .. The members of these clubs also conduct operations in military hshion. Even the spectators and officials (frock coats and silk hats) march in fours to music and with flags flying! This sort oUhing leaves an uneasy feeling at -the back of one's mind_

To the democratic Britisher it seems to be the reverse of pacific; not at on September 30, 2021 by all in the spirit of Locarno. But after being wedged a dozen times in a crowd of processionists; after being recognized by everybody as an "Englischer"; after being shepherded, told what all the fuss is about, and waved cheerily on our way, it is bard to believe that the inward meaning and purpose of this show of militarism -is La Revanche. - If a free-born Briton wants to amuse himself in the open air, he looks on at a football match. J R Army Med Corps: first published as 10.1136/jramc-50-06-07 on 1 June 1928. Downloaded from

458 1(U.lt1N and KUT in a OQ1[:pe

If a Scandinavian wishes to enjoy himself, he joins some of his fellow men and indulges in Swedish gymnastics. But if Fritz is in a holiday mood he gets a brass band, hoists a banner and parades. He can't help it; he is made that way. - There is compensation in bad roads and severe gradients; they are not popular with motorists. Hence we were not troubled with much motor traffic; in this respect the roads resemble those of England in 1913. But one result of this is that benzin and benzol are often difficult to get. In Germa~y it is a safe plan to fill the tank whenever you meet a reliable supply. The stuff served out in emergencies in the smaller villages is nearly always low-grade, and quite unsui.table for high-efficiency cars when hill climbing has to be done. From the valley of the Rhine the coupe was turned north up the Wehr Valley through Schopfheim, ScMnau and Zell, to Todtnau in the Wiesental: a run of sixty-four miles. No wonder so many hotels and guesthouses in Germany bear the legend,

" zum Ochsen"! As in India, cattle are more numerous, and of. more guest. Protected by copyright. importance, than horses. 'Where we employ draught horses in the field and on the road the Germans employ cattle and; as often as not, cows in milk. To us this seemed wasteful and not altogether humane; but an amateur is ill-fitted for criticizing the astute and hard-working farmer Fritz. Another surprising thing is th-at over the length and breadth of the land you never see the cattle grazing in the open. This gives the countryside a curious, deserted aspect. The British system of pasturage is not practised and, until you are right on the Swiss border, the only cattle visible are those employed in heavy traction. Next morning we called at the post office to collect our first mail since leaving Wiesbaden. The Reichpost officials behaved in the same way as an aggravating http://militaryhealth.bmj.com/ postal babu in Hindustan, i.e., they displayed the mentality and powers of resistance of a budmash mule. Had they said," You cannot possibly be the villainous people whose photographs are affixed to your passports," we should have left it at that; but they did not; they knew something of the vagaries of the passport photographer. What they did say was," We know you are the people you declare you are, but-you have not complied with this, nor with that; it is verboten to do this; it is also verboten not to do tha.t," and so on. We filled up innumerable forms-in quadruplicate-and, after a vexatious delay, dourness on my part, powerfully backed up by feminine on September 30, 2021 by guile on Georgina's, triumphed. From Todtnau, 2,160 feet, the road descends gently to about 2,000 feet and climbs to the Feldberg, 5,000 feet, the highest point in the Black

Forest. 0 The road is narrow, treeless, and on the sunny side of the hill. It has a bad surface. Hairpin bends are frequent. The gradient is continuous, J R Army Med Corps: first published as 10.1136/jramc-50-06-07 on 1 June 1928. Downloaded from

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but degrees of steepness vary: average 1 m 10~ over a distance of six miles. The lumber traffic causes numerous checks. The coupe received harsh treatment and yet, when we topped the summit, she was in splendid fettle. Now it was midsummer and the car was not fitted with a fan. I pulled up and did a stupid and dangerous thing. I unscrewed the radiator cap in a . careless, absent-minded manner. Instantly a great jet of boiling water-a fountain from a high-pressure geyser-blew the cap into the air and just missed my face by an inch. That taught me a lesson. The effects of rapid changes in altitude mystified us at first. In addition to the alteration in boiling point, there are alterations in tyre pressure. Thus, you start the day's run with your tyre gauge at twenty-one pounds. It is disconcerting to find that, after covering ninety miles, the gauge registers twenty-five pounds. We carried a Steward's pocket barometer. ·In the morning the reading might agree with the weather, "Set fair·"; but

in the evening, in the midst of a howling storm, the reading was sure to be guest. Protected by copyright. " Fine and sunny." The Feldberg affords a number of magnificent views. The d~scent from " '1'he Roof of the Schwarzwald" is over a good, well-wooded road, and the gradient is fairly easy. Note: If you wish to drive to the top of the Feldberg, approach it from the north-east,i.e., .from Titisee and not-as we did-from .Todtnau. Titisee is a pretty place, famed for its winter sports; height, 3;000 feet. Thence via Neustadt and Vohrenbach through a timbered and pastoral valley, well-watered and green, and containing neat little farmhouses, fragrant lumber mills, and picturesque hamlets. Furtwangen combines industry with Kur. Its houses, hotels and,

factories are dotted over a beautiful, pine-covered hIll side. It must be a http://militaryhealth.bmj.com/ healthy spot. A climb of four or five miles took'us on to a barren hilltop. At 3,350 feet the coupe surmounted the watershed and passEd through Schonwald-a bare, windswept place. From here the' road descends 1,020 feet in five and a half miles, to Triberg. Triberg is a renowned Kur resort. It is built on both sides of the road at one of the steepest parts; the height varies from 3,290 to 2,300 feet. In a deep gorge nearby ·is the famous Gutach Waterfall, which in seven cascades falls through a height of 540 feet. Leaving Sommerau and St. Georgen behind, the coupe ascended a nasty gradient through splendid on September 30, 2021 by pine forests, and then descended into a valley whose beauties cannot be described in prose. As I am not a poet, I must leave it with the remark that it was the most delightful part of the Black Forest that· we saw through'out the tour. It led to Schramberg, a town surrounded by lofty heights and ruined castles. Another severe climb! A fast run over the downs and, at the end of J R Army Med Corps: first published as 10.1136/jramc-50-06-07 on 1 June 1928. Downloaded from

46Q KulhlT and KUT in Ct Ooupe eighty miles, we enter Rottweil on the N eckar-a place of much historical and architectural interest. In the evening Georgina gave the waiter the usual warning regarding raw omons. This appeared to be a source of interest and amusement to a German family seated at another table. Fritz and Gertrud conversed hurriedly in undertones and dispatched Hritz, junior, aged about nine, to clarify the onion warning. Fritz,junior, gave the waiter explicit instructions about the raw onions, and in the most frank and polite manner possible, informed us that he spoke German, English and Spanish. He did not speak-or, at least, did not admit to French. For a long time he entertained us with an intelligent account of the country he had just left: Mexico. He went off to bed in great glee with an armful of English illustrated papers.

Some day that boy will become a professor. Of what? Oh! of guest. Protected by copyright. anything .... The morning of July 27 .broke dull and threatening. The garage where we filled up with benzin-benzol was owned by a brawny, upstanding fellow. On discovering that we were English, he plunged into the usual yarns about the Great War. Here is one of them :- " In 1917 I was a Flying Corps officer on the SOlllme. We brought down a British aeroplane. The pilot, who was unhurt, was duly interro­ gated. Our Intelligence Officer said: 'In the end you will. lose the war, and you know it. Why llOt admit it now? " '" Lose the war!' the Englishman replied: 'We have a saying in England which I have no doubt you will remember one fine day; it is this -he laughs best who laughs last!' " . http://militaryhealth.bmj.com/ " I have never forgotten that incident." He waved us a cheery farewell as we drove towards the fast gathering- storm. ThroughSchomberg and Balingen we approached Hechingen. Heavy grey-black clouds shrouded the mountains. Suddenly a rift appeared, and a broad shaft of sunlight struck full on a conical peak on which- was perched a fairy castle from out of an old-fashioned pantomime. The HohenzQllern Burg stands at a height of 2,600 feet, and 1,050 feet above the surrounding country. Although it only dates from 1850-56, it is designed after the style of a fourteenth-century stronghold. Graceful spires

and slender towers rise above the encircling battlements and, at a distance, on September 30, 2021 by the building has all the appearance of a genuine mediawal fortress of importance. The storm burst in Hechingen. We took shelter while the rain descended in sheets, and water flowed over the roadway in a torrent. In half an hour it was over, and we had a pleasant drive between forest-clad ranges from the valley of the Starzel to Tubingen,a distance of forty miles. J R Army Med Corps: first published as 10.1136/jramc-50-06-07 on 1 June 1928. Downloaded from

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A violinist is a creature of sympathy and understanding. He strode down the street a slim, rosthetic-Iooking figure clad in black, and carrying his instrument case under his arm. He acknowledged our greeting with a flourish of his broad ;'brimmed felt hat and said: "English, to be sure! then I know just where you would wish to go" -and he directed us to an excellent old-world hostelry situated in a charming old-world market place. This square is bounded by ancient buildings, including a fine rathaus erected in 1435. Nearby is a most interesting Gothic collegiate church and academical buildings of picturesque design and colour. The whole forms an effective frame for the 'statue of Tubingen's most famous citizen, the poet Uhland. From here quaint streets and alleys radiate in all directions. It is easy to confine your wanderings to the 'old town if you are so minded, and notelldowed with a sensitive nose. But the Tubingen mediroval bouquet is particularly potent: some of the odours must be as ancient as the drains and cesspools. guest. Protected by copyright. It is a relief to the nose to climb to the 8chloss, built by Duke U1rich in 1535. This is a grand example of a feudal stronghold. 'l'he main gateway is of unusual design: massive and menacing. The views from the battlements are splendid. Tii.bingen is the seat of one of Germany's oldest universities, founde

snowy white strips of plaster, Tii.bingen must be a most aggressive spot. http://militaryhealth.bmj.com/ The German 'varsity student is not an attractive person. Compared with his British prototype he is terribly serious, rather a hobbledehoy and, I suspect, something of a prig: A course of Rugby football would do him a lot of good.

C'ultnre.-For a period of two weeks we had been strangers to the flesh­ pots of civilization, so, on July 28, we decided to visit Stuttgart, thirty-five miles away. Like veritable country cousins, we fell to this sort of thing :- "If we were to question a hundred globe-trotters and ask them, what on September 30, 2021 by rank, in their opinion, Stuttgart occupies among the beautiful cities of the world, we may be quite sure that they would be unanimous in classifying it among the first twenty." If Georgina and I were included in the hundred globe-trotters, opinion would not be unanimous: there would be at least two dissenters. ' Our enjoyment of the scenery on the Tii.bingen-Stuttgart' road was ;,r.. '. \ J R Army Med Corps: first published as 10.1136/jramc-50-06-07 on 1 June 1928. Downloaded from

462 J(ulhf.,r and Kur in a Coupe marred by the bad going. A W01'l1 surface was often a.sign of the vicinity of a big town: the bigger the town, the bigger the pot-holes. Outside '\Valdenbuch the coupe nearly collided with a stag. "Ve came on him at a comer. He seemed to be petrified by our sudden appearance. The sound of the hom brought him to his senses and he cleared the boundary wall just in the nick.of time. The hotel at which we stayed was big, efficient, luxurious and cosmo­ politan: a replica of any hotel de luxe, in any town of importance anywhere. We did lIot enjoy its amenities. "Ve had become too heavily infected with the virus of vagabondage-and it did not cater £01' bummlers. Stuttgart is the capital of Wiirtemberg. It is a commercial and industrial centre, progressive and hustling, and contains 350,000 inhabitants. 'l'he old town dates from 1229. Picturesque bits of it still remain, notably

with some fine old buildings. guest. Protected by copyright. The: hitter are in striking contrast to the splendid, new, Gothic-style rathaus. . Compare the ult~a-modem railway station, to which the guide-books gi~e pride of place. This building faces up the main street, which is long and straight, and so it can be seen afar off; in fact you cannot get away from it. Were it a state prison erected for the express purpose of deterring the citizens from qualifying for entry, then one could understand the design. But by the bones of St. Nicholas, I understand it not. It is brutal. It is­ hideous. It is a nightmare. At present, German art is impregnated with advanced modemism. This ll10demism is neither fatuous, as in England-nor subtly delicate, as in http://militaryhealth.bmj.com/ France. It has a character of its own, revealing the Teuton at his worst: in all his grossness, naked and unashamed; and not content with defacing shop windows and picture galleries, it spreads itself in huge, leprout;> patches over the walls of b~il4ings, whereon in. former times mural decoration of a charming and appropriate kind was displayed. No: we are not amused by this manifestation ofKultur. In Stuttgart there are many imposing public buildings, fine squares, monuments, statuary, etc.-mostlv modern. But the ensemble is neither in~pressive nor restful. Everyth'ingseems to be subordinated to the exigencies. of high-pressure civilization, including a much advertised on September 30, 2021 by American exposition. Somewhat disappointed, and very tired, we crept into the garden of a boulevard cafe, ordered Ii five o'clock" and asked the -waiter to recommend a cake., He advised peach cake with cream, for which, he said, the cafe was famed. . ,In due course we.were seated each before a minute piece of peach cake and a mountain of very sweet whipped cream. J R Army Med Corps: first published as 10.1136/jramc-50-06-07 on 1 June 1928. Downloaded from

u. P. A. 463 Georgina demolil?hed one quarter of her portion, and I half of. mme.. We departed more than satisfied. The waiter sniffed. That evening we voted on "the most beautiful of Germany's large towns" versus the Open Road. The latter won by two votes to. nil.. We decided to leave Stuttgart on the morrow, July 29.

'Three 'Treasure Houses.-These are Schwabische Halle, Rothenburg and Nuremberg. They must be seen to be believed. In any case they are described fully in all the guidecbooks; and here it is proposed merely to_ relate our personal experiences and impressions. Of Rotheuburg it is said that it is the only place regarding which the staid Baedekel' employs the superlative. vVe travelled to Halle via Waiblingen, Baclmang, Sulzbach, Mannhal'dt and the L6wenstein Hills; thence to Rothenburg by Kirchberg and the

Haller-Hohenlohe uplands: a run of sixty-five miles . guest. Protected by copyright. . Road surfaces are none too good, but the scenery is varied and attracti ve. Halle is surrounded by old walls and turrets froDlwhich fine views may be had of the Rocher Valley. When we were exploring the battlements a company of young bummlers-senior pupils of a mixed school-arrived with packs, flags alld a band-violins, mandolins and guitars. They lined up and listened to an address by the master-in-charge. Then the band played a few opening bars and the whole party sang an oln German folk song. They trooped off in fours to the strains of a stirring march.

As we looked at the big, cumbrous rucksacks and the heavy, hob-nailed. http://militaryhealth.bmj.com/ boots, we marvelled at the stamina of the youthful Gertrud. No Eton crop, Charleston nonsense about that hefty young. woman! 'rhe surroundings of ;Kirchberg are beautiful. The village itself occupies a position not unlike Tret on the Rawalpindi-Murree road. "It can be justly claimed for Rothenburg that, in the words of a poet, 'the clock of Time has stopped here.'" This is no exaggeration. Early mediroval history whispers to you from 'out the worn woodwork and the hoary stones. A town in which to dream -in which to breathe the air of chivalry and romance. Our little tumble-down hotel lay in the shadow of the Marksturm. The on September 30, 2021 by coupe occupied one half of the scullery: there are no orthodox garages in Rothen burg. . The town is completely surrounded by a high wall guarded by thirty­ three towers, and pierced by six main gates with flanking to~ers. It contains 9 churches, 2 rathauses, 2 museums, 12 hotels of sorts, 5 restaurants,5 brewedes, many wine saloons and beer cellars, 2 perambulator J R Army Med Corps: first published as 10.1136/jramc-50-06-07 on 1 June 1928. Downloaded from

Kultur and K~&l' in a Coupe factories and several Kur baths. A formidable list to place against a ,population of 8,500. However, the floating population of globe-trotters, :bummlers and artists is a big one. Our first visit to Rothenburg took place on a vVhit Monday, when the festival play, "Meistertrunk," is performed. This play was written by a glazier, Rarber, and has been enacted in the Kaisersaal of the old rathaus since 188l. Actors and actresses are townspeople, and the drama is in the first rank ,of German folk plays. The scene is laid in the Thirty Years' War, when Hothellburg espoused _the cause of the Swedes, and was besieged and captured by Tilly. It was {lecided to plunder the town and to execute the members of the CounciL However, the old Burgomeister, Nusch, saved his beloved city by fulfilling 'Tilly's stipulation-that he should empty the Ehrenpokal (the Goblet of Honour) at a single draught. The gobJet had a capacity of thirteen Bavarian pints.

vVe left on August 2 and travelled via Colmburg, through some of the guest. Protected by copyright. nnest forests in central Franconia, to Ansbach on the Rezat, once the ,residence of the Margraves of Brandenburg-Onalzbach. '1'his town is a mixture of Gothic, Baroque and Rococo. The Chapel of the Knights of the Swan is of great interest. '1' he lLltar dates from 1484, and there is a superb painting by Hans Baldung Grein. Curiously enough, there are no swans to be seen, but; each -of the beautifully-modelled figures of the knights is supported by a big .dog: Continuing through forest and marg scenery, we arrived at Nuremberg ,after a run of fifty miles. We put up at a popular hotel. The food was excellent. The visitors

were numerous, mixed and entertaining. They included thirty school http://militaryhealth.bmj.com/ mistresses who took their holiday in a serious and laborious manner. , 'They hailed from the U.S.A. Another party was headed by a Captain Pflugge, whose visiting card :announced that he belonged to the Royal Air Force. This party travelled in a huge American automobile which was stacked -with luggage and fitted with a powerful wireless receiving set. The car Jooked like a Thames barge on wheels. It is doubtful if the intrusion of 2 I, 0 and "Uncle Rex" into ~ Bavarian glen would add an appropriate or desirable element to the

amenities of the place. on September 30, 2021 by The coupe had difficulty in approaching the hotel entrance, for a dense -crowd blocked the street. 'rrams and 'buses were held up, traffic control had ceased and the efforts of the numerous policemen, to move the people on were of no avail. . A high functionary in a state of distress shouted, gestiCUlated and implored Captain Pflugge, R.A.F., to go away and 'to take his musical -caravan with him. J R Army Med Corps: first published as 10.1136/jramc-50-06-07 on 1 June 1928. Downloaded from

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The gallant captain, all. smiles and good humour, did not see why music-loving Germany shouldb.e deprived of the rare and refreshing fruit which his valves were pl~cking from God's free air. However, after a really touching effort by the higp functionary, the music factory played herself out of the crowd to the strains of the " Pilgrims' March." Fritz cheered. , Captain PBugge bowed his acknowledgments. , The policemen removed their helmets and mopped their brows. 'l'he German municipal police are a good-natunid, polite set of men. They are always clean, well-clothed and smart in a soldierly way j but then, they are military, rather than civic, guards. Their uniforms, and especially their he~d-dresses; are fashioned on the lines of those of the pre-war, army. Thus,should you miss the boundary posts, you can tell whether you are in Wiirtemberg, Bavaria or Badenby noting the distinctive police uniforms in the first towns through which you may pass. guest. Protected by copyright. (To be continued) . • lRel'iews.

MEDICINE AND THE MAN. By Millais Culpin, M.D., F.R.C.P. London: Kegan Paul, Trench, Triibner, and Co., Ltd: 1927. Pp. 67. Price 2s;6d.. ' This is another little volume of the Psyche Miniature Series. The author in his first chapter elaborates on the belief that with the diagnosis of http://militaryhealth.bmj.com/ a neurosis or functional nervous disorder a pbysician'sprOfessional interest ends. The second chapter is an attempt to define a "neurosis," the word is applied in a haphaz~rd fashion to mental ,and physical conditions, in current usage the sufferer from a neurosis is not ineane, yet there is a subtle condemnation involved in the word and, as the author says, to call a person n"eurotic is almost libellous. Chapter Ill' is headed, '" What is behind tbe neurosis?" The author believes that the term neurosis should cover the disturbances

which can be described in the term of physiology·...:even' tbis definition on September 30, 2021 by covers a mass of symptoms which really belong to the minor psychoses. He states that, apart from lunacy, disturbances of thoughts, emotions and desires are subjects avoided by medicine and believes that if the reader will unde1'stand that the mental processes which produce some disorders bf behaviour are unknown 'to the patient he °will have a greater insight into these cases. Neurosis canoe 'described as physical manifestation due to an, 30