The Telegraph ravel Arts/Entertainment Editor: Kathleen Palmer | [email protected] | 594-6403 | fax: 882-2681 T SUNDAY, AUGUST 2, 2015 | PAGE C-7 Drinking tea in China
Correspondent photos by PEGGY NEWLAND A Victoria Harbor junk boat sails at sunset overlooking Kowloon and Hong Kong Island. Local woman finds herself in busy Hong Kong By PEGGY NEWLAND cool marble lobby, hidden alcoves of Correspondent crushed velvet, an outdoor grotto of red lanterns and palm trees, four res- hen I drink tea, I taurants of varying cuisine and decor, usually rip a Lip- and a rooftop pool with 360-degree ton teabag from its views to Lion Rock and Kam Shan wrapper, plop it into Parks, Victoria Peak and Kowloon Bay, a coffee cup, add one could stay immersed in panorama some tap water, and and comfort. microwave it on high After a two-hour nap in my white- Wfor two minutes. Then, I dip the bag in washed room with feather pillows and and out of the hot water and toss the its view to Fa Hui Park and Golden spent tea into the garbage. Plaza, I fuel up on meat dumplings, “That’s not tea,” my Chinese friend jasmine tea, Jiang (hot, sweetened soy Sara grimaces. “That’s just gross.” milk), Youtiao (Chinese fried dough), She tells me of the tea culture in and spinach Baozi steamed buns. I Hong Kong. That loose leaves gath- decide to search for the puer tea. ered from wild, often aged trees are Mongkok means “busy corner” in grown without chemicals or process- Cantonese, and I find busy corners, ing. Sara dumps my tea down the sink. busy stalls along Tung Choi Street – “Puer,” she states. “You need puer – the aka “Goldfish Market” – which is filled fermented tea of the ancients. Or else a with dizzying displays of multi-colored good oolong.” goldfish swimming in plastic bags and I look into my empty mug and de- aquarium after aquarium of every cide, why not go to Hong Kong to find type of tropical fish, sea horse, and these elusive loose leaves? Especially jellyfish. when Sara tells me that it’s a quick “Puer tea?” I ask a woman selling flight of “only” 15 hours from Boston to The multi-colored fruit and vegetable stands of Mongkok. knockoff Gucci handbags, sun hats and Hong Kong, direct on Cathay Pacific. sundresses. “They have welcome cocktails on all “Fa Yuen,” she says, pointing toward flights,” she adds. “And their seats go the harbor filled with ferries and junk apples, fuzzy loquats, fuchsia drag- the intersection of neon Nike signs and flat.” boats, oil tankers and jet-skis. Soon, onfruit and bushels of kumquats and blinking Adidas sneakers in flicker- Coming into Hong Kong at dawn I’m in the hive of the airport. lychee. One worker, shirtless and tat- ing florescent. Browsing through the (after a surprisingly good night’s sleep Not trusting myself to manage the tooed in red and black dragons, sleeps sport shoe stores and electronic gadget propped up in a bulkhead seat with Hong Kong subway at 5:30 a.m., there’s standing up in an alcove. Cars and shops on Sai Yeung Choi Street, I soon a flip-switch footrest) is psychedelic. arranged transportation to Langham buses, push carts and bicyclists careen find myself on Yuen Po Street, where Lush hillsides lit pink and monolith Place, a hotel surrounded on all sides past, swerving around women haul- parrots and parakeets, songbirds and buildings, layer upon layer, one atop by the teeming markets of Mongkok. ing bunches of orchid and lotus flower blackbirds tweet in stacked bamboo the other, like the pocked white grin of Open-air butchers compete for space to the markets lining street after cages. A woman buys two matching concrete giant. I stare down at the nest with fruit vendors hauling wooden street. Langham Place sits like a calm of a city already alive and moving – bins of purple mangosteen, pink wax oasis from sensory overload. With a CHINA | PAGE C-8 Road trip redo: 1915 Ford taken cross-country Drivers re-create trip taken by auto pioneer’s son
DEARBORN, Mich. (AP) in Dearborn, told the Free Horace James Caulkins – Drivers from the Historic Press. III, whose father, Horace Vehicle Association are “They slept out in tents Caulkins Jr., made the trip. re-creating a cross-country they secured to the cars. “Ford dealers along the road trip taken 100 years They carried pistols and way introduced them to ago by the son of auto rifles because of wild interesting local people,” pioneer Henry Ford with a animals and criminals Caulkins III said. drive starting Friday. along the route. It shows This year’s trip includes The trip begins at the there was a romanticism a 1915 Motel T with a top Ford estate in Dearborn, to the road trip even then,” speed of 35 mph. Casey where Edsel Ford and six Anderson said. “It wasn’t Maxon and Mark Gessler friends set off on their trip about the destination as are embarking on the before taking up the re- much as the journey and monthlong journey. sponsibilities of adulthood, the company.” “Should be exciting,” the Detroit Free Press and The original trip includ- Maxon, a historian for the MLive.com reported. Edsel ed a Model T as well as a Historical Vehicle Associa- Ford, then 21, would go on Cadillac and a Stutz, a pair tion, told MLive.com. The to help lead Ford Motor Co. of luxury models. They purpose is to commemo- Photo by TANYA MOUTZALIAS/THE ANN ARBOR NEWS/MLIVE.COM via The Associated Press “It was one last taste of covered more than 4,000 rate “the importance of the Historical Vehicle Association President Mark Gessler, right, and Heritage Specialist freedom before life and miles. Edsel Ford died in automobile in our culture, family obligations took 1943 at age 49. how it shaped our road- Casey Maxon drive around Henry Ford’s Fair Lane Estate in Dearborn, Mich. The two over,” Matt Anderson, “It was quite a trip. They ways, how it shaped our na- drivers in the Model T along with a following crew will set off on a month-long road trip curator of transportation were all buddies and they tion, how in 1915 it all kind recreating Edsel Ford’s cross country tour in their own 1915 Model T Touring Car for the at the Henry Ford museum had a ball,” said 93-year-old of kicked off,” he said. centennial of this historic road trip. C-8 | SUNDAY, AUGUST 2, 2015 | THE SUNDAY TELEGRAPH www.nashuatelegraph.com
China | Skyscrapers turn into Las Vegas-style lightshow of neon CONTINUED FROM | PAGE C-8 IF YOU GO blue parakeets, and I watch her walk past a koi pond CATHAY PACIFIC AIRLINES: kong.com. in a side park full of tree www.cathaypacific.com. MONGKOK DISCOVERY TOUR: peony and azalea. Four direct flights weekly Book through the con- With afternoon heat hov- from Boston to Hong cierge at Langham Place, ering close to 90, I find a Kong. Ask for Hong Kong Mongkok. cafe and have the local iced Super City Tour. LAMMA ISLAND: Take local coffee/tea, which is just LANGHAM PLACE: Mon- what it sounds like: cream, ferry from Pier 4 along gkok, Hong Kong. 555 Central Ferry Piers. coffee and black tea over Shanghai Street, Mon- ice. I add a Gai Mei Bao, Make sure to go to the gkok. http://hongkong. top deck for breeze and or coconut bun, because langhamplacehotels. there’s always room for views. Especially at sun- com. coconut. The cafe is cool set and at night, when but frenetic, so I head back LITTLE ADVENTURES IN HONG the Hong Kong Harbor is to the peace of the rooftop KONG: 510 Wayson Com- lit up like Las Vegas. pool before a sunset cruise mercial Building, Sheung AQUA LUNA: Junk Boat and dinner at T’ang Court Wan, Hong Kong. www. cocktail cruise on harbor. near Kowloon Park and the littleadventuresinhong www.aqualuna.com. Central Wharf. Riding on a junk boat in Kowloon Harbor with a Cha Pou. Like a coffee tions, and aging process. cocktail in hand is a skill shop, only with cooling Flying out in the eve- I do not seem to have. teas made from herbs and ning, Victoria Harbor is There must be familiarity animal products like turtle shrouded in clouds as the of bracing yourself from shells and jellies, my kudzu sun sets over the peaks of the multi-leveled waves tea is delicious and suppos- Discovery Bay. Below, the crashing against all sides edly helpful for detoxing Junk Boats careen, and Photo courtesy of LITTLE ADVENTURES IN HONG KONG of the boat at once, an un- the liver. Hong Kong lights up for derstanding that you must “Here,” Johannes says, the evening. Fruit stands full of freshT:6.75” mangosteen, jackfruit, pomelo and guava. hold onto something rope- as we walk through a shad- like, and the capability to ed lane. A tea shop, tiny not careen overboard from Fukien Tea Co., crouches the railless confines of a quietly in old-school el- deck. We’re like pirates eat- egance. Tea leaves, pressed ing canapes and slugging into oblong cakes and sold chardonnay as the blazing in individually wrapped pa- sun sinks deeply into the per, fill one cabinet, and the thrashing sea. well-worn flooring shows Once off the junk boat, I generational use. ® wobble on sea legs, through Owned by the Yueng iPhone 6 on U.S. Cellular. crowds of families hover- family, who specialize in ing on the Central Wharf as Puer Bing (stone or hand the Hong Kong skyscrap- pressed teas) and Seui Siin ers turn into a Las Vegas- (high-fired charcoal roasted Together, you can do more. style lightshow of neon teas), this is authentic yellow and green, gyrating Hong Kong. Mr. Yeung orange, electric pink, and invites Johannes and me Now get iPhone 6 with 2GB of data and Unlimited Talk and flashing cherry red. The to sit at his back room tea Text for an exclusive, all-in price of just $60 a month. spot-lit lasers exploding table as he prepares first from rooftops give an Tieguanyin, a younger extraterrestrial feel to the green Oolong tea with a scene. woody aroma, and then The T’ang Court is a se- Seui Siin, an aged tea rene refuge of hushed, gold roasted for over 70 hours. brocade, dimmed chande- Because of the prolonged lier, and plate after plate of aging and fermenting of five-star cuisine. We start teas, each cup is smoky, with a trio of sliced cod strong and without any fish with lemon and honey type of bitter aftertaste, sauce, Wagyu beef, and even after over 15 infu- crispy-fried pumpkin and sions of one pot of tea potatoes in taro nests, then leaves. We drink Gongfu- head into sauteed prawns style in tea cups called and crab roe accompanied Gaiwan, and when we by crabmeat puffs. Wines, reluctantly leave the shop, like Anna’s Secret and we carry wrapped packs of Sant’Elena, are poured. Wuyi and Tieguanyin teas. Then, stuffed bean curds That evening, instead with egg, spinach and mo- of fine dining, we head to rel mushrooms, fried spare the ferries and cross the ribs in strawberry dress- crazed harbor to the peace- ing, and a signature baked ful confines of Lamma seafood rice in cream Island. Known as Bok Liu sauce. Chau, the island is the rug- That evening, I fall into gedly rural cousin to Hong a sleep of stupored happi- Kong and Kowloon. ness. Situated in a cove and The next morning, I surrounded by beaches and decide to get some profes- granite hills of scrubby sional help in my quest brush and pine, this seems for custom teas. Talking like Bar Harbor on the with Alka Datwani and South China Sea. We walk Titania Shum at the hotel, past open-air stalls and they point me in the direc- point out the live, multi- tion of a private tour of colored seafood, and the the Sheung Wan district, restaurant, Rainbow, cooks where Cantonese cuisine our choices. T:16” is local mom-pop noodle With the sun setting over shops mixed with authentic Sok Kwu Wan peak and medicinal tea shops and Pic Hic Bay, it’s a perfect artisanal dim sum tast- evening. Lanterns are lit on ings. I meet with my guide tables and we dine on Ga- for the day, funk-trendy roupa fish, garlic prawns, Johannes Pong. I tell him and fried crab. For the about Lipton teabags and ferry ride back to Kowloon, my friend Sara’s reaction I pick up some dragon’s the microwaved brew in a beard candy (Chinese coffee cup. He laughs and cotton candy), iced gem tells me not to worry. biscuits with sugared icing “Tieguanyin,” Johannes and an egg tart. states reverently. “From The next morning, it is Anxi, Fujian province.” He time to cook dumplings nods. “Even better.” with the Michelin-starred We head out for the executive chef from Ming morning and stop first at Court, Mango Tsang. First, Fung Shing, a local Cha we tour his kitchen, and it’s Chaan Teng cafe. Think a dance hall of fired bar- Miss Wakefield Diner beque grills, diced greens, in Hong Kong. Carts of roasting ducks, and the steaming dim sum roll past intent precision of artful as grandchildren sit with cuisine. grandparents eating bowls Unfortunately, my cook- of Haam Seui Gok (salt ing skills are laughable: water dumpling) and Aleng pork leaking from too- Yue Beng, or fried fish thinly rolled dumplings and cake, bouncy in its consis- flour caking my cheeks and tency, and flavored with a lumpy mess that falls on cilantro and tangerine peel. the floor. Luckily, after a “Now, we explore,” cleanup in the bathroom, I Johannes says after our sit down for a nine-course snack, and we head back luncheon. iPhone 6 isn’t just bigger — it’s better in every way. Larger, yet thinner. into the twisting streets Each course is genius, and walk through back- with a flair toward color More powerful, yet power-eicient. It’s a new generation of iPhone. ways and alleys, up stair- and texture. We start wells, past antique shops, with chilled silk tofu and dried seafood stalls full of truffle in gold leaf (almost abalone and scallop, and too beautiful to eat), then the herbal markets. enjoy drunken shrimp “Bird nests,” Johannes dumplings, flower blossom points to a locked glass spring rolls, and Alaskan window in one of the shops. king crab dim sum. Next Individual nests are lined is Chinese black fungus up like rare jewels. “For and five-spice pork paired soup,” he explains. Har- with a Hubert Moret vested from limestone burgundy and soon, the caves, where swiflet birds signature silky egg white create nests from solidified shrimp and the optional saliva (yes, saliva), these roasted pidgeon in lemon are expensive treats. juice with sauteed greens. Things we want you to know: New service and Retail Installment Contract required. Credit approval also required. A $25 Device Activation Fee applies. 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Device must be in fully functional working condition without any liquid damage or broken components, including, but not limited to, a cracked display or housing. Device will not be ® VENDOR $2,500. I decide to bypass bean curd pudding and a returned. Not eligible for in-store or mail-in trade-in program of U.S. Cellular. To be eligible, customer must register for My Account. Kansas Customers: In areas in which U.S. Cellular receives support from the Federal Universal Service Fund, all reasonable requests for service must be met. Unresolved questions concerning services availability can be directed to the Kansas Corporation Commission Office of Public Affairs the bird nest and spring chilled cheese tart. Puer and Consumer Protection at 1-800-662-0027. Limited-time offer. Trademarks and trade names are the property of their respective owners. ©2015 U.S. Cellular RE-RELEASED TO for a five-flower tea at a tea is poured, and I drink it Williams Vendor: Release Date: 7/28/15 sidewalk tea bar, or Leung knowing the history, tradi-
USC1-15-04229-570_N036_6.75x16_iPhone 6.indd 1 7/28/15 5:08 PM
Job # USC1-15-04229 570 Version # 3 Document Name USC1-15-04229-570_N036_6.75x16_iPhone 6.indd Last Modified 7-28-2015 4:34 PM Linked Graphics Job Description N036 Art Director rob Colors In-Use User Printer Output Date iPhone6_Blk_CMYK.ai Cyan ma-jpicard 10C-EXP550 7-28-2015 4:34 PM Bleed None Mech Scale 100% Copy Writer TBD USCC logo_4CNP_horizontal_2012.eps Magenta iPhone6_Family_US-EN-SCREEN.psd RGB 112 ppi Yellow Mechd By: mdanish RTVd By: mdanish Trim 6.75” x 16” Print Scale 82.33% Proj Mgr jess Black USCC Blue newsprint Live 5.75” x 15” Stock newsprint Acct Svc tconner USCC Red newsprint Folded Size None Prod Mgr ehale CD/ACD COPYWRITER AD CONTENT Finishing None Art Buyer TBD Colors Spec’d 4CNP Copy Edit TBD ACCT SERVICE PROD COPY EDIT Special Instr. None Mac mdanish 7-28-2015 4:34 PM BY SIGNING YOUR INITIALS ABOVE, YOU ARE STATING THAT YOU HAVE READ AND APPRO Publications None VED THIS WORK.