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Home , Badlands, San Rafael Reef, San Rafael Swell, Swell (ocean)

CONSERVATION HIGHLIGHTS OF THE AND LABYRINTH

Essential Improvements to the Emery County Public Land Management Act of 2018 Labyrinth Canyon Tidwell Bottom / Photo © James Kay

TABLE OF CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION 5

MUDDY CREEK WILDERNESS ADDITION 8

LABYRINTH CANYON WILDERNESS ADDITION 12

SAN RAFAEL NATIONAL CONSERVATION AREA 16

2 3 Labyrinth Canyon Wilderness Addition / Photo by Ray Bloxham

4 PRICE

10 6 DESOLATION HUNTINGTON CANYON

191 CASTLE DALE

10 GREEN RIVER SALINA SAN RAFAEL SWELL

I-70 EMERY

I-70

24 LABYRINTH CANYON

HANKSVILLE

Introduction Between the towns of Salina and • Only one side of Labyrinth Canyon would • Hands over control of the southern San Green River, cuts through a be protected, and the portion that would be Rafael —including areas such as Chute great dome of uplifted designated is pitifully small. and Crack —to the State of Utah, called the San Rafael Swell. Fifty miles long which will charge the public for visiting and thirty miles wide, the Swell rises 1,500 • The largest intact wilderness in the their public lands, with proceeds given to feet above the surrounding desert, forming Swell—Muddy Creek—would be chopped the state or Emery County. one of the scenic and geological wonders down in size by cutting it up with off-road of the world. vehicle routes. • Allows Utah politicians to continue their litigation against the to • None of the western Swell Badlands To the east, the Green River sinks gently off-road vehicles trails into the same lands —Molen Reef, Upper Muddy Creek, Cedar into the land, winding for 50 miles through designated as Wilderness by the bill. Mountain and similar places—would be a series of “bowknot” curves before entering given any protection at all. • Removes WSA protection to allow for Canyonlands National Park. This is Laby- coal mining. rinth Canyon, one of the last great stretches • Wilderness Study Areas (WSAs) would of wild river in the West. be released in the Sids Mountain region to Simply stated, there is little or no conserva- ensure that off-road vehicle use in those tion gain in this bill. In fact, this bill wouldn’t While this landscape has been the subject of canyons would be perpetuated. close a single off-road vehicle route. No proposed legislation for the past 50 years, lands that are threatened by leasing would legislation has never risen to a level worthy While the main failure of this bill would be closed to leasing. We understand that of places like Labyrinth Canyon, Muddy be the lack of protection for the Swell’s part of the intention of the bill is, in fact, to Creek and the San Rafael Badlands. Now, iconic wilderness landscapes, the bill also prevent future conservation gains. Utah Senator Orrin Hatch and Represen- includes other poison pills: tative John Curtis have once again intro- With your help, we can work to improve this duced legislation for these areas. And once • Undermines a settlement reached by legislation to a point that ensures that these again, that legislation fails to protect the conservationists, the Trump administra- remarkable, remote, and world-renowned world-class wilderness of the San Rafael tion, and off-road vehicle advocates that landscapes receive the protection they’ve Swell and Labyrinth Canyon. So far, the resolved nearly ten years of federal court long deserved. Utah delegation has refused to compromise litigation by requiring new travel plans for on a one-sided wilderness proposal the San Rafael area, based on conservation Sincerely, drummed up by local politicians—a pro- values. The bill takes the unprecedented posal that omits Wilderness designation approach of excluding all motorized routes Scott Groene for more than 900,000 acres that deserve from the NCA and Wilderness areas, effec- Executive Director protection. tively ensuring that they will remain open Southern Utah Wilderness Alliance in perpetuity. This includes the illegal travel The boundaries of what would be designated plan routes and additional motorized as Wilderness by the legislation are absurd. routes and trails sought by Emery County. For example:

5 6 7 Muddy Creek Wilderness Addition / Photo by Ray Bloxham

MUDDY CREEK WILDERNESS ADDITION

8 Highlights cluding technical and non-technical canyons Constituting the southern portion of the such as Seger’s Hole, Chimney Canyon, San Rafael Swell—and reaching from Baptist Draw, Upper Chute Canyon, Lower the interior of the Swell to the northeast Squeeze, Seger’s Window Canyon, and The corner of Capitol Reef National Park— Gorge of Muddy Creek. Muddy Creek is the second largest block of undeveloped BLM land in Utah. With Emery County Public Lands nearly a quarter of a million acres that Management Act of 2018 deserve Wilderness protection, the Muddy The Emery County Public Lands Act of Creek landscape represents every 2018 fails to account for the whole of this found in the San Rafael region: 200 million wild and contiguous wilderness landscape, years of geologic history from the and instead proposes to protect only a Coconino to Tertiary igneous portion of the larger Muddy Creek area. Of intrusions folded and carved into towering the 239,000-acre Muddy Creek wilderness ; sweeping badlands; impassable unit—all of which BLM agrees qualifies as reefs; slickrock domes and canyons; and wilderness—the legislation only designates black walls of desert varnish. This remote the 30,500-acre Muddy Creek Wilderness region provides for extraordinary kayaking, Study Area and 8,700 acres of the Muddy canyoneering, backpacking, day , and “THE UTAH DESERTS AND Creek Natural Area as Wilderness. Even the car camping trips proposed NCA for this area stops at the PLATEAUS AND CANYONS ARE arbitrary southern boundary of Emery Biological Community County, and fails to account for the contig- NOT A COUNTRY OF BIG RETURNS, Sparse desert shrubs and grasses occur uous wilderness landscape that continues throughout the landscape, with scattered BUT A COUNTRY OF SPIRITUAL into Wayne County. In order to give the pinyon and juniper trees found in the Muddy Creek region the lasting preserva- HEALING, INCOMPARABLE FOR higher elevation ecotypes. Cottonwood tion that it deserves, the legislation must: groves occur along many canyon and wash CONTEMPLATION, MEDITATION, bottoms. Five candidate, one proposed, • Designate the entire 239,000-acre Muddy and two listed threatened or endangered SOLITUDE, QUIET, AWE, PEACE Creek proposed wilderness unit as Wilder- plant species are known within or near ness, ensuring that this wilderness treasure OF MIND AND BODY. WE WERE the area. Desert bighorn sheep, mule deer, is preserved in its entirety and without the wild horses, gray fox, kit fox, and smaller presence of habitat fragmenting off-road BORN OF WILDERNESS, AND WE mammals inhabit the region. Raptors in- vehicle routes. This area includes contiguous RESPOND TO IT MORE THAN WE clude bald and golden eagles, ferruginous public lands in both Emery and Wayne hawks, and rough-legged hawks. Counties (196,000 acres in Emery County SOMETIMES REALIZE. WE DEPEND and 43,000 acres in Wayne County). The Cultural Resources 239,000-acre landscape is a BLM-identified ON IT INCREASINGLY FOR RELIEF Several archaeological sites including rock land with wilderness characteristics (LWC), FROM THE TERMITE LIFE WE HAVE art and structures are known, but the full meaning that the agency has determined extent of cultural resources is unknown. that it qualifies for wilderness designation CREATED. FACTORIES, POWER Historic mining and ranching infrastruc- under the requirements of the Wilderness PLANTS, RESORTS, WE CAN MAKE ture exists throughout the area. Act of 1964. Cutting off protections at an arbitrary political boundary is irrational, ANYWHERE. WILDERNESS, ONCE Recreation creates a difficult management situation, The rugged and remote terrain offers and fails to protect the entirety of this WE HAVE GIVEN IT UP, IS BEYOND endless and unforgettable opportunities deserving landscape. Compared to the OUR RECONSTRUCTION.” for solitude and primitive recreation, Emery County proposal, protecting the including hiking, backpacking, canyoneer- entire Muddy Creek region would add – WALLACE STEGNER, 1990 ing, kayaking, photography, geologic study, approx. 165,000 acres of designated Wil- and horseback riding. The Muddy Creek derness to the legislation (121,625 acres in area is internationally renowned for its Emery County and 43,310 acres in Wayne canyoneering and hiking opportunities, in- County).

9 • In protecting the entire Muddy Creek unit as Wilderness, the portion of Muddy Creek that is currently proposed as an NCA by Emery County must also be designated as Wilderness. Failure to do so rolls back exist- ing wilderness protections for the area.

• Permanently close the Behind the Reef motorized route and its spur routes, which bisect and would adversely impact the integrity of the Muddy Creek Wilderness. Wilderness designation would also prevent any future attempt to allow motorized use within the portion of Muddy Creek that cuts through the San Rafael Swell.

Muddy Creek Wilderness Addition / Photo by Ray Bloxham

10 Muddy Creek Wilderness Addition / Photo by Ray Bloxham

11 Labyrinth Canyon Wilderness Addition / Photo by Neal Clark

LABYRINTH CANYON WILDERNESS ADDITION

12 Highlights Canyon is also home to early pioneer sites, The Labyrinth Canyon of today differs little historic mines, and engravings from early from the wilderness landscape described explorers to the region. by John Wesley Powell during his famous 1869 expedition down the Green and Recreation Colorado Rivers. This world-class stretch With nearly 50 miles of smooth water of flat water—unbroken by rapids or falls unbroken by rapids or falls, Labyrinth on its 50-mile journey from Red Wash near Canyon is a river runner’s paradise. Cutting Trin-Alcove Bend to Canyonlands National a path through on its Park—offers spectacular opportunities for way towards the confluence with the Green quiet recreation and sightseeing, provides River in Canyonlands National Park, the critical wildlife and plant habitat, and canyon and its tributaries are riddled with contains a wealth of prehistoric cultural alcoves and caves, natural bridges, and resources. Cutting its way through tower- towering cliff faces. River runners enjoy the ing walls of Navajo Sandstone, Labyrinth sight of Navajo Sandstone cliffs gradually Canyon’s endless series of “bowknot” rising out the flat-lying deserts as they float curves contain unique riparian habitat and down the smooth waters of the Green River. incomparable side canyons—Spring, Hell By Trin-Alcove Bend, the cliffs become Roaring, Three, Keg Spring, Horseshoe, Hey an imposing barrier to overland travel, Joe, Mineral, and Ten Mile. Recognized the although additional access points can be world over for its geological and archaeo- found at Ten Mile, Spring, Hell Roaring, logical wonders and quiet recreation oppor- and Horseshoe Canyons. Above the canyons, “THERE IS AN EXQUISITE CHARM tunities, Labyrinth Canyon is truly a unique rolling benchlands culminate in dramatic wilderness landscape. overlooks of the river. By the time the river IN OUR RIDE TO-DAY DOWN THIS reaches Canyonlands National Park, the cliffs of are exposed BEAUTIFUL CANYON. IT GRADUALLY Biological Community Like its , the biological resources high above. The side canyons of Spring, GROWS DEEPER WITH EVERY MILE of Labyrinth Canyon and its side canyons Hell Roaring, Three, Keg Spring, Horseshoe, are rich and diverse. Many species of fish, Hey Joe, Mineral, and Ten Mile also provide OF TRAVEL; THE WALLS ARE SYM- waterfowl, reptiles, and mammals call this an array of quiet recreation opportunities. METRICALLY CURVED AND GRANDLY place home. Deer graze among willows From technical canyoneering routes to along the river, beaver glide across lagoons daylong hikes in search of swimming holes ARCHED, OF A BEAUTIFUL COLOR, at the mouth of side canyons, and a dozen and hanging gardens, Labyrinth Canyon species of fish—including the endangered provides an accessible multi-day wilderness AND REFLECTED IN THE QUIET Colorado pikeminnow, bonytail chub, river experience for families, beginners, and WATERS IN MANY PLACES SO AS and humpback chub—live in the river. experts alike. Coyote, bobcat, fox, and desert bighorn ALMOST TO DECEIVE THE EYE AND sheep roam the side canyons and bench- Emery County Public Lands lands. Hawks, vultures, golden eagles, SUGGEST TO THE BEHOLDER THE Management Act of 2018 and peregrine falcons share the updrafts, While the Emery County Public Lands THOUGHT THAT HE IS LOOKING and pronghorn antelope graze among the Management Act of 2018 protects a portion dunes and slickrock domes found along of the western side of Labyrinth Canyon as INTO PROFOUND DEPTHS…WE the canyon rims. designated Wilderness, the legislation fails NAME THIS LABYRINTH CANYON.” to ensure lasting protection for this entirety Cultural Resources of this quiet recreation Eden. Without the Deep in Horseshoe Canyon, a 35-mile- – JOHN WESLEY POWELL, 1869 clear protection afforded by the Wilderness long side canyon of Labyrinth Canyon, lies Act, the wilderness-quality of Labyrinth the Great Gallery, one of the most signif- Canyon will be lost to off-road vehicle icant prehistoric rock art sites in North abuse and energy development. In order America. Although a 2,500-acre National to protect the unparalleled solitude of Park Service unit protects the site, the rest Labyrinth Canyon for all future generations, of the canyon—including less well-known the legislation must: pictograph panels—remains unprotected. Elsewhere in the Labyrinth Canyon system, • Protect the entirety of Labyrinth Canyon archeologists have discovered human and its side canyons within both Emery artifacts nearly 9,000 years old. Labyrinth and Grand Counties as designated Wilder-

13 ness—from Red Wash down to Canyon- Labyrinth Canyon Wilderness Addition / Photo © Tom Till lands National Park. The proposal, drawn on arbitrary political boundaries, fails to recognize Labyrinth Canyon as one intact landscape—protecting only a frac- tion of Labyrinth Canyon as designated Wilderness and omitting the eastern side of the canyon system entirely. In order to ensure lasting solitude and wildness within the canyon system, the legislation must protect the eastern side of Labyrinth Canyon and its side canyons (Ten Mile, Spring, Hell Roaring, Hey Joe, and Mineral) as designated Wilderness. The legislation must also designate the western portion that is currently proposed as an NCA by Emery County as Wilderness. Protecting only portions of the western rim of Labyrinth Canyon in Emery County fails to give the canyon system the lasting protection it deserves; makes little sense for conserving the primitive, wilderness river experience; and creates a bizarre and difficult land management situation. Compared to the Emery County proposal, protecting all of Labyrinth Canyon would add approx. 138,000 acres of designated Wilderness to the legislation (92,740 acres in Emery County and 45,025 acres in Grand County).

• Not open currently–closed motorized routes. This includes June’s Bottom, which runs from the western rim of Labyrinth Canyon to the river. If opened, the June’s Bottom route would allow motorized vehicles into the river corridor, adversely impacting the river’s solitude and primitive recreation experience.

• Permanently close all motorized routes along the Green River in Labyrinth Canyon. This includes the Hey Joe, Ten Mile Wash, and Hell Roaring Canyon motorized routes, and the motorcycle routes known as The Tubes and Dead Cow Wash. There are hundreds of motorized trails located elsewhere in this region available for such use; however, there is no alternative to Labyrinth Canyon for quiet river recre- ation. As designated Wilderness, these areas should be protected from the noise, dust, and pollution from motorized use along the Green River. There is simply no compelling reason to continue allowing motorized use to negatively impact this wilderness treasure.

14 15 San Rafael Badlands NCA / Photo © Jonathan Bailey

SAN RAFAEL BADLANDS NATIONAL CONSERVATION AREA

16 Highlights grain was stored. As the San Rafael Badlands The western reach of the San Rafael Swell, have never been subject to comprehensive known as the San Rafael Badlands, holds archaeological study, the potential for un- a diversity of landscapes rich in cultural discovered sites is simply stunning. Since resources, scenic vistas, and geologic wonders. 2013, upwards of 250 new and significant Composed of Molen Reef, Eagle Canyon, cultural sites have been discovered in the Rock Canyon, Cedar Mountain, and the Molen Reef area alone. The Hopi Tribe Mussentuchit Badlands (pronounced claims cultural affiliation to prehistoric “mustn’t touch it”), this rugged landscape Paleoindian, Archaic, Basketmaker, Anasazi, is studded with mesas, , and igneous and Fremont prehistoric cultural groups intrusions painted with a brilliant kaleido- associated with the San Rafael Badlands, scope of desert colors. Historically drawing and has actively worked to challenge oil hikers and sightseers for its stark and vast and gas leasing in this region. This area beauty, recent discoveries of rock art—in has also been the focus of gypsum mining addition to well-known panels—have also development. increased interest in the area. The area’s abundance of known and yet-to-be- Recreation discovered cultural resources, along with The San Rafael Badlands provide an “WILDERNESS IS NOT A LUXURY recreational opportunities, have caused array of recreational opportunities for the BUT A NECESSITY OF THE HUMAN the Hopi Tribe, along with conservation, intrepid explorer. Called a “photographer’s recreation, and archeological groups, heaven” in guidebooks and other publi- SPIRIT, AND AS VITAL TO OUR to challenge oil and gas leasing here in cations, the San Rafael Badlands is where recent years. the extraordinary 70-mile kayak trip to LIVES AS WATER AND GOOD the begins on Muddy BREAD. A CIVILIZATION WHICH Biological Community Creek, an outstanding desert river that in A classic badlands ecosystem, occasionally high water years provides rocky rapids in a DESTROYS WHAT LITTLE REMAINS interrupted by the riparian vegetation of setting of incredible scenery and isolation. OF THE WILD, THE SPARE, THE Muddy Creek and other springs, sparse Constantly changing in form and topogra- desert shrubs and grasses typify the San phy, with hundreds of draws, , and ORIGINAL, IS CUTTING ITSELF OFF Rafael Badlands. Two federally listed , the challenge becomes finding your endangered species of cacti, the San Rafael way through the maze of such a complex FROM ITS ORIGINS AND BETRAY- cactus (Pediocactus despainii) and the landscape. Whether it’s photography, ING THE PRINCIPLE OF CIVILIZA- Winkler’s pincushion cactus (Pediocactus kayaking, scenic and geologic sightseeing, winkleri), are found within the Morrison photography, extended hiking, or study of TION ITSELF.” Formation of the San Rafael Badlands. cultural resources, the San Rafael Badlands provides a stark, adventurous recreational — EDWARD ABBEY, 1968 Cultural Resources experience unlike that found in many other For millennia, humans have occupied and regions of the desert Southwest. travelled through the San Rafael Badlands, contributing to one of the most significant Emery County Public Lands archaeological and cultural records available Management Act of 2018 to the public. As a whole, this region paints The Emery County Public Lands a vivid picture of the First Americans— Management Act of 2018 fails to protect from plants used for food, medicine, and any the sensitive landscapes of the San religious purposes, to culturally-saturated Rafael Badlands. In order to protect this topography marked by rivers, intermittent remote and rugged cultural and natural water sources, migratory routes, and over- treasure, the legislation must: looks. The significance of these features is abundantly written in the landscape in • Designate the San Rafael Badlands as the the form of rock art, habitation sites, stone “San Rafael Badlands National Conser- working sites, burials, and places in which vation Area.” The 200,100-acre National

17 Conservation Area (NCA) should be desig- nated “to conserve, protect, and enhance for the benefit and enjoyment of present and future generations the cultural, ecological, wildlife, natural, scenic, educational, and scientific resources” of the NCA. The NCA utilizes manageable boundaries—following human impacts or topographic features— and is drawn to ensure that the irreplaceable cultural and natural resources of this region are protected. The NCA should utilize precedential language from the 2009 Washington County legislation. San Rafael Badlands NCA / Photo by Ray Bloxham

• Include a mineral withdrawal for the entire San Rafael Badlands NCA. A mineral withdrawal will ensure that this culturally- sensitive region is protected from oil, gas, and mining development.

San Rafael Badlands NCA / Photo by Ray Bloxham

18 19 Muddy Creek Wilderness Addition / Photo by Ray Bloxham Muddy Creek Wilderness Addition / Photo by Ray Bloxham

Labyrinth Canyon Wilderness Addition / Photo by Ray Bloxham Labyrinth Canyon Wilderness Addition / Photo © Tom Till

San Rafael Badlands NCA / Photo by Ray Bloxham San Rafael Badlands NCA / Photo by Ray Bloxham

20 21 Labyrinth Canyon Wilderness Addition / Photo by Ray Bloxham

22 23 / Cover Photo by Bill Church

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