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Published by the Hyde Park Historical Society Holding the Lake at Bay in Jackson Park: The Stories of the Paved Beach and the Iowa Building

Stephen A . Treffman recently, was paved with a layer of five to twelve inch rectangular granite blocks that were quite visible to The Park District's plan to replace the large anyone who noticed them. Those blocks were cut and limestone blocks around Promontory Point and installed in 1887 and 1888 under the direction of the elsewhere along the lakefront with a concrete and steel South Park Commission (SPC). Created in 1869 by revetment is part of a long history of attempts to the Illinois legislature, the SPC had come into protect the city's shoreline from the ravages of the existence largely through the lobbying efforts of Hyde natural action of our great Lake Michigan. That Park founder , later a commissioner for history, however, is not well known but the recent the district, and other prominent local associates. Its reconstruction of much of the beachfront along South mission was to create and maintain a public park on has revealed artifacts of one of the 1057 acres of land that eventually would become earliest large-scale projects designed to keep the lake Jackson Park, Washington Park, the Midway at bay along Jackson Park. Plaisance and Gage Park. It was also empowered to There is a strip of beach at about 58th Street establish and maintain 13.87 miles of boulevards, between the sidewalk and Lake Michigan that, until including Grand Boulevard (now Martin Luther ~ .

Fam il ies enjoy the paved beach. In the background , benches line the paving. c. 1910 2 ~~

Deterioration of the paved beach provides insight into its construction. The Iowa Building can be seen in upper left of view. c. 1912

-<0 King Jr. Memorial Drive), Drexel Boulevard, and had been washed away by the lake. (Andreas, p . 532). Garfield Boulevard. The latter is linked at its eastern Confronting the erosive power of Lake Michigan on its end to Washington Park and to Gage Park (named for shoreline early on, then, became a permanent part of George W. Gage, an early South Park Commissioner) the agenda of the park district's administrators. at its westernmost entrance. The SPC had, by any Piers aimed, in part, at containing that power began measure, a daunting responsibility. In its early years, to appear. In 1875 , a pier and dock were constructed the SPC was largely concerned with working out the and extended 200 feet east into the lake at 59th legal issues and claims involved in assembling the Street. This pier was extended still further into the land for the parks and laying the plans for the design lake where it was intended not only to help offset the of what was then named South Park. wave forces of the lake but also to serve as a departure The 593 acre portion of the South Park system that and landing point for a steamer that ran between abutted the lake was initially called the Eastern Hyde Park and Chicago proper. Small brush and plank Division, renamed Lake Park in 1875 and, finally, in piers were also added. 1881, Jackson Park, in honor of the seventh president The SPC's first large scale project to protect the of the United States. While the park was still largely lakefront began in 1877 when a submerged unimproved in 1875, the pace of development of its breakwater 2200 feet long was installed from the landscaping and facilities began to quicken in the next north line of the park at 56th Street to the 59th Street five years. Following the suggestions of the district's outlet. Materials used included "250 oak piles, 17,500 first consulting landscape architects, Olmstead and feet of oak lumber, 3618 oak stakes, 446 cords of cedar Vaux, artificial lagoons were created inland that were bark and 110 cords of limestone." On the surface, intended to be the center of recreational use by the 10,160 cubic yards of sand were laid to create a public. Bathing, for instance, was expected to take "permanent" beach. (1877 SPC Report, p. 22). It place there rather than on the edge of Lake Michigan. would not be enough. Boating on the lagoons became a popular attraction It soon became evident that the action of the lake and picnic areas became available to the public. was compromising these initial protection efforts. A While the Olmstead and Vaux plan focused almost new plan emerged that emphasized hardening the entirely on inland developments, the SPC's shoreline by paving the beach. Starting with the commissioners and engineers were acutely aware of the section from 56th Street to 59th Street in 1884 and effect of the lake on the shoreline. Commissioner completing it by 1888, this project would eventually Cornell, for example, knew full well that much of extend south to 67th Street.(SPC Reports,1884, Hyde Park's first park, East End Park at 53rd Street, pp.ll, 21-22 and 1890, pp. 23-24). Indeed, years of

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r it I I / W ; 11 I " r 2 0 0 J :I ~~ projects constructing concrete paved beach the fact that they were in place for many years, those &erlwatt'rrrtntrfenuudr Gflllrg- L'l'n:: lkJ.e- L15 GfL-1't~><6Y (,l1t:ll-s- om.n..- (li L1.'rc lkke- sl'rifcl:u' d:a.1 SCpd:Cd:C\..--d as chc 69th Street did not end until 1911. Thereafter, the base beneath them slipped or was undermined by the south lake front work that began in earnest in the force of water and weather. In later years, extending 1920s and continued into the late 1930s grew out of the beaches further into the lake left the old paved revised versions of Burnham's Plan of 1909. areas behind, covered over by sand and weeds and, by The paved beach surface was constructed in two and large, forgotten. sections. The first section consisted of a seven foot The remnants of this paved strip were rediscovered wide strip filled with cedar bark and limestone bricks by the (CPD), the Illinois bordered by two rows of oak piles and oak stakes in a Department of Transportation (IDOT) and the line that hugged the natural curved edge of the Jackson Park Advisory Council 0PAC) in 2002 and lakeshore under the water line. Behind it, on the identified for what they were. Initially, IDOT and the beach, a second section of thousands of five to twelve CPD planned to remove the stones but the JPAC inch oblong granite scones each varying in depth from successfully prevailed upon them to retain the paved a few inches to a foot were laid upon a supportive base area in its current shore reconstruction project. Two in a mat that rose an average of 40 feet gradually from plans were developed by the Park District involving the lake to a higher level walkway. Sand, dredged from reinstallation of the rocks and presented to the JPAC the various interior lagoons and carried o'n tracks to for its advice and consent. The design the group the beach by an open ore car or tram, was first laid recommended most resembled the paved beach as it under and later, in some areas, over these stones. appeared over 100 years ago. Ultimately, benches were set in place in a line along A recent walk along the beach at 59th quickly the upper edge of the paved beach for visitors to sit revealed how vigorous an effort the Park District has and enjoy the view and experience the comfort of launched to recapture those granite bricks. Thousands being close to the lake. It was a place to see and, as of them have been unearthed and loaded carefully into well, be seen. ingeniously created 34 inch by 44 inch open boxes By the early 1900s, any attempt to keep these paved with molded pallets at their base and their sides made areas along the lake covered in sand appear to have of wooden sheets held in place by steel strips. At last been abandoned probably because the action of the count, they were neatly arranged in 46 rows offrom lake, particularly during the winters, kept washing it four to six boxes each enclosing an estimated 30 or away. The views accompanying this article, all dating more stones. Uncounted others are piled in mounds of from this later period, from 56th Street southward dirt and, a Walsh Construction Company supervisor show this paved beach without any sand at all. Despite informed me, an unknown number of them remain ~e

Tourist launch picking up passengers from the paved beach at 57th Street. The German Building is on the right, along with benches. c. 1913

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A view of the World's Columbian Exposition looking south along lake Michigan from the northeast corner of the grounds. At the forefront is a rear view of the Iowa Building with its two sections clearly shown. The seawall, built in 1884, is to its left as is the first strip of the paved beach constructed in the 1880s. An elevated electric railway traversed the boundaries of the grounds and can be seen here passing the Iowa Building which was one of its stops. The Columbia Gallery, A Portfolio of Photographs from the World's Fair (Chicago, 1894)

--<@) still to be unearthed. A tranquil expanse of sandy doesn't look like the original Iowa building, it is also beach, from 58th Street past the 63rd Street Beach smaller and stands at a distance from where the House lies grandly revealed, the tracks of heavy original once stood. Nonetheless, it is still called the machinery of last summer's construction work Iowa Building-not just by park enthusiasts, but by softened by fall rains. Small purple and green bushes the Chicago Park District as well. The name is now so that have taken hold in the sand puncruate the view. entrenched that no other has emerged to replace it. Some portion of these granite artifacts of those very The story of the Iowa Building goes back to the early protection efforts by the official public guardians same time as those early plans to pave the beach. A of our lakeshore will eventually be laid back in place, large, finely constructed seawall was built near the giving new generations of lakeshore visitors the edge of the lake in 1884 in anticipation of the opporrunity to stroll down a version of that old construction of a permanent public shelter for visitors promenade once again. in a "time of storm." The one story structure, designed by and completed in 1888, was built The Iowa Building of granite with a slate roof. Aside from protecting the What is usually referred to today as the Iowa public from inclement weather, it was 'also explicitly Building at 56th Street west of South Lake Shore constructed to serve as a venue for dancing and Drive is really not the Iowa Building, at least not the musical entertainment. To that end, its interior was original Iowa Building. In fact, the structure not only lined with maple from floor to ceiling and was said to

~~ rull j WI"lcl' 2 0 0 J J ~!~ be large enough to accommodate 2500 people. productivity and vigor. On entering the hall, visitors While it must be emphasized that the construction discovered that its walls, ceilings and columns were of the Shelter had no direct relationship to the covered almost entirely with colorful scenes and planning for the 1893 World's Columbian Exposition, decorative designs made of small grains, seeds, grasses, the building's lasting fame came as a result of how it corn shucks and colored corn kernels. Twelve hundred was used during the fair. Due to a mix-up, a site bushels of corn and three and a half car loads of other elsewhere on the grounds that was to be for the State Iowa-grown products had been transported to Chicago of Iowa became unavailable and the WCE to support this decorative natural extravaganza. Near Commissioners offered Iowa's representatives the the center of the hall was a scale model of the Iowa Jackson Park Shelter instead, with the sole proviso State Capitol building made of glass seeded with Iowa that it be left as found at the end of the fair. The site cereals. The model was made by the Chicago firm of would be at the northeastern corner of the fairgrounds, Wells Glass Company and at the end of the fair was almost on the lake. Recognizing this as a particularly shipped to the Agricultural College at Ames, a attractive siting and an opportunity to reduce its predecessor of Iowa State University. construction costs, the Iowa Columbian Commission With the closing of 1893 Exposition, the added readily accepted the arrangement and set about turrets and the rooms in the west section came down converting it into a showplace for their state and its and the Jackson Park Shelter was returned to its products. . original state, all those seeds presumably having been The Iowa commissioners then hired the Cedar faithfully removed. It remained a part of the Jackson Rapids architectural firm ofJosselyn & Taylor to Park landscape until 1936 when it was demolished. design Iowa's State Building for the fair. The Its demise coincided with a grand effort to widen architects proposed using the original shelter or east what became South Lake Shore Drive, to extend the section, which was 80 feet by 120 feet running east to shoreline further into the lake, and then to defend it west, as the main exhibition hall. A second section, a with a revetment made of large roughly hewn three story building 60 feet by 112 feet extending limestone blocks north and sourh along the lakefront. further west, would be added on to western edge of While the Promontory Point was being completed the shelter, thereby increasing the size of the structure and landscaped, construction on a new Jackson Park at ground level by 70 per cent. Viewed from the shelter, designed by E. V. Buchsbaum, was ordered in south, it would have the appearance of a single 1936 by the CPD and completed in 1937, funded by cohesive structure. The firm's plan was accepted by the federal Works Project Administration and a the Iowa Commission and approved by Daniel $20,000 donation from the Museum ofScience and Burnham, Chief of Construction for the WCE Industry. commission. Bids were sought for construction and a The 1937 shelter, the new Iowa Building, has a contractor, presumably from Iowa, won with a bid of north/sourh orientation, not the roughly east/west $23,700. Josselyn and Taylor received another five siting of the original. With approximately 7104 percent of that amount for preparing the plans and square feet of ground space (approximately 74 feet by superintending construction. The building was 96 feet), its footprint is 25 per cent smaller than the dedicated on October 22, 1892 and it formally opened original shelter's 9600 square feet and only 43.5 per on May 1, 1893 when the fair began. cent that of the actual Iowa Building at the time of The main entrance into the building was through the Exposition. It lacks the height, too, of its the new west section, and faced the Palace of Fine predecessor. Constructed largely of what is believed to Arts. The rest of the addition was devoted to the be lannon limestone with exposed wooden beams accommodation of the public and officials. Its first above its interior walkways and a red shingle roof, its floor contained a reception hall, men's and ladies' rustic appearance contrasts markedly with the more parlors, a special room for Iowa's Governor and elegant French chateau-influenced style of Burnham's commissioners, a post office and parcel receiving earlier design. The original shelter's replacement is far room, smoking room, writing and waiting rooms and more open to the elements and has an unenclosed toilets. The second floor, set back from the entrance, court lined with large gray flagstones. At its center, a consisted of a large meeting room approximately 37 small pool once allowed swimmers to wash sand off by 50 feet that was used for an art exhibit and special their feet. At one time refreshments were available at a events, a press room, a reporters' room, and four concession stand there. The building stands somewhat sleeping rooms for officials. Rooms for janitors were west of the original site and, unlike the Ffrst shelter, is located on the truncated third floor. no longer on the lip of the lake. Comparing old and The east section, the original shelter, was where the new maps at the CPD, most of the original site would main exhibition hall was located and its decor was appear to be under what is now the intersection of the intended to vividly display Iowa's agricultural Drive at 56th Street. ~(;,

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View of original shelter looking north. c. 1910

«~ Aside from the name, the other characteristic that latest chapter in CPD attempts to preserve the both buildings came to share is obsolescence. The new lakefront and enhance accessibility to it. A ribbon of bathing facility built several years ago on the beach at concrete along the lake on the North and South sides 56th provides a range of services to swimmers and of Chicago is well on its way to being laid. The use passersby that render the Iowa Building of limited use and arrangement of those old blocks at Promontory to the public-except perhaps as a shelter in rainy Point are now at the center of the controversy that has weather. The concessionaires are long gone. The brought into being the Promontory Point restrooms are locked. No water spurts from within its Community Task Force, for which the Hyde Park little pool. At night, orange sodium vapor lights shine Historical Society acts as fiduciary partner. This out from within to outline the exterior. If the volunteer group has drawn over $62,000 in donations, strucrure were dramatically scaled down, it might fit over half from the Richard M. Dreihaus Foundation into one of those miniature building tableaus that and the rest from private citizens. What began as a people put together at Christmas time or place relatively informal, though emphatic protest has alongside model train layouts. During recent vi rruall y insti tutionalized itself, at least for the summers, families have brought grills and picnicked moment, and the group is at this writing in in its shadow. At one period in the 1990s, teenagers mediation meetings with the Park District. constructed a skateboard ramp next to it. A starue Whatever the outcome of those negotiations, the so from the WCE uncovered recently during the current called "Save the Point" campaign has established an roadwork may eventually be placed in its courtyard. unusual chapter in community action in Hyde Park. The proximity of the Iowa Building to a new underpass It harks back to the days of urban renewal in the now under construction at 57th Street under the 1950s, the save-the-trees effort of 1965, and the Nike Outer Drive has led to discussions about transforming missile protests of the 1950s and again in the late the building into something more functional than it 1960s. More recently, such efforts have coalesced with is at present. Solidly intact and still handsome in its the founding of the Friends of the Park (1975), the present isolation, the shelter remains a reference to Jackson Park Advisory Council (1983) and the Save architectural elements on Promontory Point and to International House campaign (2000). One of the the Alfred Caldwell era of landscape architecture. signal strengths of Hyde Park lies in the reservoir of Those big rocks along the lakefront, it should be educated and sophisticated leadership it harbors, the noted, are the ones now being replaced during the financing its residents can muster and the history of

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r n I I / Wi" I t· I" ~ 00] 7 ~!~ community activism that marks its character. was also not a smooth process. From the beginning, Without reference to the specifics of aesthetic and conflict over the allocation of park funds, that is, the recreational issues, the Promontory Point campaign mediation between philosophy and practice, was a seems to have thrived in part because of its focus on a constant and remains so to this day. Historically symbol that sets Hyde Park apart from other parts of speaking, then, some kind of political or negotiated the city and promotes its singularity. International process, has always been involved from inside and House meant something more than just a residence outside of the park's administrative system. hall to supporters of its preservation. Today, In recent years, while advocacy groups with Promontory Point seems to have been invested with a relatively comprehensive agendas related to the Park meaning beyond stone blocks, bike paths and rule­ system have been established, constituencies have also breaking swimming outings. Such symbolism organized around specific parks or projects resonates almost viscerally with a significant segment throughout the city. Hisrorical preservation, of the Hyde Park community. moreover, has emerged as a major and sometimes The mediated dialogue between the CPD and the confounding concern among the public, outside Promontory Point Task Force leadership can be seen as governmental agencies and within the CPD itself. an episode in the long public history of defining what This has meant that the Park District, rich in our parks should be and how they should relate to and technical talent and its planning expertise, has been serve the public. Political action was present at the confronted with having ro develop new sensitivities very birth of the park system. There were small parks and to display public relations skills of a rather high in Chicago early in its history, some built by order. The larger historical question, however, is how developers; East End Park was not unique. Creating complex entities like the Chicago Park District and parks on a much larger scale, however, involved its predecessors have set their mission, planned their developing a base of public support for the concept. work, obtained funds and made decisions about how To give life to the idea, a network of political to allocate them, and adjusted generally to political, supporters had to be cobbled together capable of economic and social changes in the city of which they persuading the State legislature to establish the three are so in tegral a part. CIil:l part (South, West, and North) park system for the Chicago area. Accumulating the land for the parks Sources and further reading, see page 9.

Iowa Building looking northwest. The origi nal shelter on the right and addition on the left. The Book of the Fair, 1895

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r. il I I / Will I (> , . 2 0 0 3 8 ~~ Wooded Island: In Memoriam by Doug Anderson

The following is a love story about a tree. If you don't like trees, you'd better not bother to read on. At about 4am on July 5th, I was awakened by the sound of thunder and lightening. I looked through my south-facing window and saw an amazing display of lightening bolts shooting horizontally across the sky and occasionally toward the ground. It was raining heavily, and the wind was pushing the rain in a horizontal direction toward the east. I was witnessing a major thunder storm coming through Jackson Park. The storm was over by Bam when I headed for the Clarence Darrow Bridge to start my usual bird/nature walk through the Paul H. Douglas Nature Sanctuary (Wooded Island) behind the Museum of Science and Industry. As I approached the bridge I saw the first Doug Anderson greets visitors to Wooded Island's BirdlNature walks. evidence of a major disaster ahead. A huge, 60 foot Green Ash tree, probably the largest of its kind in with a crown that spread ninety feet across. I had aged Jackson Park, was lying on its side just east of the that tree to 273 years of age. It had sprouted from an bridge. Several months earlier I had aged that tree acorn in 1730. I knew it was the oldest oak in Jackson with a formula provided by arborists at the Morton Park, and later found out from the chief forester in the Arboretum. It had started from a seed in IB53-the Chicago Park District that it was probably the oldest same year that Paul Cornell founded the community oak in the entire city. of Hyde Park. I had first discovered this tree in 1943 after my The real shock took hold as I entered Wooded Island family had moved back to Chicago from Los Angeles. just to the south of the Darrow Bridge. It looked like I quickly found Wooded Island, only a few blocks a tornado had gone through it. I counted over fifty from my home, and it became my "jungle" as I grew trees, including many of the largest and oldest on the up. As a nine-year-old, my main interest was climbing island, that were completely blown over. There were at trees, and the oak was my favorite since it had a low least seventy-five more trees that were standing like branch that angled near the ground and was easy to skeletons completely stripped of their major branches, get into. including the only Horse Chestnut on the island that When I got high into that oak, I felt like Tarzan or, may have been planted by in more appropriately, his son, "Boy," who was about my 1B92-93 when he designed the island and planted age. I went to all the Tarzan movies that played hundreds of trees there for the World's Columbian constantly in the early 1940s in the many theaters Exposition of 1B93. Since I had started bird/natute along 63rd street in Woodlawn, and it was not walks on the island almost thirty years ago, I had difficult transferring Tarzan's life in the trees to my admired that Horse Chestnut for the migrating fertile imagination on Wooded Island. Johnny humming birds that were attracted to its flowers each Weissmuller was my boyhood hero. May. It had stood fifty feet high, and now stood only After my ttee-climbing days were over, I was twenty-five feet as all the upper branches had been introduced to the bird life of Wooded Island in 1950 stripped off by the storm. There must have been by a biology teacher at Hyde Park High School. I hundreds of birds and nests that were destroyed by the gravitated to my favorite oak, and was enthralled by storm. The worst was yet to come. the many birds I saw in that tree over the years. As I made my way through tangled branches and By 1974, when Alderman Len Despres encouraged over fallen trunks of numerous maples, ashes, me to start group bird walks on the island, my basswoods and cottonwods that littered the sidewalk favorite oak had gtown to massive proportions, with a around the island, I came upon the tree that I had ttunk three feet in diameter. For the past twenty-nine known and loved for over sixty years. It was a mighty plus years I have continued these walks, always Burr Oak that had stood about sixty-five feet high, pointing out my favorite oak tree, telling of its history

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and reminding everyone that it would probably live to Selected sources and further reading: be five hundred years old. I loved that tree mote than anything else in nature. When I came upon the tree that July 5th morning, I couldn't believe it when I saw it lying on the ground, covering a third of the entire island's width. I shed a few tears for the first time in my life over a fallen tree. It had been snapped off like a toothpick near its base by winds of 88 mph - hurricane force - by a microburst with downdrafts of winds that rushed in an easterly direction felling 450 trees in Washington and Jackson Parks. Such events are often called "horizontal tornadoes." It cut a half-mile swath through all of Wooded Island. There are now high openings where trees once stood. The island has now Main entrance, Iowa Building 1893 taken on more of the character of the oak savannah that it was back in the 1800s. Many saplings will be planted to replace the lost trees, but it will take many Selected sources and further reading: A.T. years before they mature. Andreas, A History of Cook County Illinois It was decided at a recent meeting of the Jackson (Chicago: 1884) Annual Reports to the South Park Advisory Council to recommend to the Park Park Commissioners, (Chicago: 1877-1911); District to leave most of the famous oak's ttunk where Julia S. Bachrach, "Jackson Park Design it fell. It could become a "nurse" tree, allowing other Evolution," C.P.D. working paper, Chicago: trees and plants to grow out of the decomposing wood 1995); Barry Bluestone, Constructing Chicago over time. There is also the possibility that "suckers' (New Haven, Conn.: 1991), Report of the Iowa might grow from the huge rot system left by the tree, Columbian Commission (Cedar Rapids, Iowa: creating more oaks in its place. I won't live long 1893); H .H . Bancroft, The Book of the Fair, enough to see this happen, but perhaps the bird Vol. II (Chicago: 1895); Rossiter Johnson, ed. watchers and nature lovers 25 or 50 years from today A History of the World's Columbian Exposition, will witness this happening, and will begin another Vol. II, New York: 1897); Olmstead, Vaux and love affair with offspring of my beloved tree! lIm] Company, Report Accompanying Plan for Laying Out South Park (Chicago: South Park Commission, 1871); Promontory Point Save the date! Advisory Group Income Statement, October 21 and December 16, 2003. There are published biographies of Olmstead and Burnham. See also Galen Cranz, "Models for Park Usage: Ideology and the Development of Chicago's Public Parks" doctoral dissertation, 1971). Thanks for assistance are AIIPIIS I due to Julia S. Bachrach of the CPD's Department of Planning and Development and ftnnua Robert Middaugh, CPD's archivist. HPHS board members Bert Benade, Devereux Bowly, and Jack Spicer also provided information in the preparation of this article, as did the JPAG's Meeling Nancy Hays and Gary Osswaarde. Contemporary measurements, box counts and interpretations are the responsibility of the SAT URDAY, F EBRUAR Y 2 8 author. Postcard views are from private collection.

2004 Stephen A . Treffman is Archivist for the Society and contribllting editor to Hyde Park History.

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