[Ethnic Cuisines] Vol. 21 No. 4 April 2012 ww Latin Sandwiches on the Rise By Barbara Zatto, Contributing Editor Flavorful Latin Inspirations The ongoing expansion of sandwich options with a Latin American influence falls directly in line It is not uncommon these days to see Latin American flavors finding with the decade-long trend of ever-increasing their way into non-traditional food forms. In most cases, this is done Latin food choices available in fine and casual through the simple addition of chiles. However, there are many restaurants, and the explosion of Latin- other ingredients in the Latin pantry that can be used as interest- influenced meals, marinades and other products generating additions to everyday dishes—including sandwiches. in grocery stores. And sandwiches are ideal Here are a few authentic and attention-grabbing ideas in which vehicles for conveying ethnic flavors. A Latin-inspired garnishes can be added to this lunchtime favorite. sandwich can offer a balance of protein, fat, acids, heat, spices and textures to make a • Chipotle in adobo. This product is the ultimate flavor chameleon. complete and satisfying meal—and the price Even in small amounts, chipotles not only add unique flavors— smoky, spicy and sweet—but they also add body and depth to point makes them an easy way to try something sandwiches when incorporated into spreads or relishes. new for little cost. • Roasted tomatillos. Crushed into a spread, or salsa verde, roasted Latin American countries have been variously tomatillos add an excellent combination of smoky depth and acidic influenced throughout history by European, brightness. Native American, Middle Eastern, Japanese and African flavor profiles, resulting in a delicious • Escabeche. This mix of vinegared carrots, jalapeños and onions blend of flavors that give their sandwiches wide pairs perfectly with many sandwiches, because what sandwich appeal. With Latin flavors trending upward over doesn’t love a good pickle? Drained and chopped finely, escabeche is particularly well-paired with cured pork products. the last several years, the ingredients found in these sandwiches are now more familiar for • Black beans. Black beans, cooked and blended into a purée, add consumers. body and richness as a sandwich spread. They are especially good for use on vegetarian sandwiches. Quintessentially Cuban • Chihuahua cheese. This mild cow’s-milk cheese is excellent for When it comes to sandwiches with Latin flair, the sandwiches. In cold preparations, the cheese is mild and firm, similar to Jack. In hot sandwiches, it provides unbeatable gooey Cuban rules. Pleasing the palate for over 100 creaminess. years, the Cuban got its start in Miami and Tampa’s Ybor City when the Cuban cigar trade • Jicama. This mildly sweet tuber provides freshness and crunch. came to the United States. From Florida, it Shaved into a slaw and tossed with lime and cilantro, jicama can be moved across the country along with pockets of used as a brightly flavored condiment for anything from grilled Cuban immigrants—and in the last several years chicken to braised pork. has grown increasingly mainstream, at home in a wide range of traditional American restaurants. • Habanero chile sauce. This three-alarm hot sauce may not be everyone’s cup of tea, but it’s perfect for adventurous eaters. Aside from the heat, The key to a great Cuban sandwich is the bread. this pepper also offers floral notes that are an excellent complement to It has to be fresh, and historically the bread was grilled or braised meats. 3 ft. long and more rectangular than rounded. —Molly McGrath, chef and project manager, The Culinary Edge The dough was stretched thin to create a crunchy crust and air pockets, and baked with a moist palm frond on top to give it a distinctive www.foodproductdesign.com Page 1 [Ethnic Cuisines] Vol. 21 No. 4 April 2012 look. Currently, the bread is more commonly sold in elongated, personal-sized rolls. The dough’s distinctive taste traditionally comes from using a starter, or sponge. In Cuba, the sandwich comes with layers of mojo pork, sweet ham, Swiss cheese and pickles, and mustard spread on classic Cuban bread. Florida introduced this popular sandwich to the rest of the United States, and residents there debate how to make the best Cuban. Miami sticks closer to Cuban tradition, while in Tampa, the Cuban sees the addition of Genoa salami. Mojo pork is key to any Cuban. The pork is marinated in sour oranges, garlic and spices (like oregano, salt and pepper) and then slow-roasted to develop its flavor. It is then either served sliced or chopped on the sandwich. After the sandwich is dressed, it is pressed and heated all the way through on a flattop grill or metal plate (a la plancha) so the fats from the cheese and meats seep down throughout the sandwich. A true Cuban should not be made on a panini press or have grill marks. Other acceptable variations include the addition of vinegars and chicken stock to braise the meat, and the addition of aioli, onions, sweet pickles, and provolone cheese instead of the traditional Swiss. The Cuban’s sister is the media noche—literally translated as “midnight," because it began as a midnight snack. Smaller in size than a Cuban and made on sweet egg bread similar to challah, the media noche is filled with roast mojo pork and heated through on a plancha for a crisp crust on the outside and gooey, melted cheese inside. Traveling to Bauru The Bauru, named for the city where it originated, is the most famous sandwich of Brazil. The traditional recipe calls for sliced roast beef (loin or rump roast), mozzarella cheese, sliced tomato and pickles topped with salt and dried oregano inside a hollowed-out French bread roll. The cheese is traditionally heated in a bain-marie (water bath—like a double boiler) until it is melted like a fondue and then poured over the other ingredients. The acid in the pickles contrasts nicely to the fat in the meat and cheese. Variations on the Bauru include using slow-roasted ham or pork instead of roast beef, and even some vegetarian options are starting to appear regionally. In southern Brazil, a thin slice of steak is used instead of roast beef and may include a mix of peas, carrots, mayo, onion and tomato. Sabores de mi tierra In Puerto Rico, sandwiches are usually served in large portions from stores and trucks that stay open late, according to Miguel Campis, host of “Sabores de mi Tierra" (“Flavors of My Country") on Puerto Rico’s WAPA TV. He typically starts all of his sandwiches using a loaf of crusty French bread or sweet pan de manteca (Puerto Rican lard bread). The beefsteak sandwich features marinated strips of seared steak, smothered with sautéed onions in a garlic and vinegar marinade. The tripleta stacks sautéed steak, ham and chicken with crispy fries inside. He serves both of these hot off the griddle. On the Southern shores of Puerto Rico, sandwich fillings include marinated octopus or conch salad with onions, vinegar and olive oil. Newer on the scene in Puerto Rico are plantain sandwiches, where chefs substitute fried plantains (tostones) for bread and fill them with flap steak (similar to flank or skirt) and chimichurri sauce (a vinaigrette-style sauce typically made with parsley, garlic, olive oil, red-wine vinegar and www.foodproductdesign.com Page 2 [Ethnic Cuisines] Vol. 21 No. 4 April 2012 red pepper flakes). In Chicago, plantain sandwiches are called jibaritos (made with steak—and sometimes chicken or pork—along with lettuce, tomato and garlicky aioli). A cousin to the jibarito is the patacón maracucho. This Venezuelan specialty dates back to the early 1990s, when chefs began filling the slices of crispy, fried plantains with thinly sliced roast chicken, avocado and cilantro, among other ingredients. Chori, meet chimi The choripan is a combination of two words: chorizo and pan (bread), so it’s no surprise that traditional choripan from Argentina features hot, grilled chorizo on a roll similar to a French baguette. Choripan is most recognized as street food, but is also served in smaller portions as an appetizer. Traditionally, Argentine chorizo sausage is made from pork and flavored with pimento, smoked red peppers, garlic and red wine, and generally isn’t spicy. Cooks split it down the middle and grill it before laying it on the bread and topping it with a chimichurri sauce. The crusty, crisp bread soaks up the meat juices and the sauce. U.S. chefs sometimes borrow the idea of dressing sandwiches with a chimichurri or vinaigrette. Mexico, one sandwich at a time Saul Ortiz, executive chef, Tacos & Tequilas, Las Vegas, names three sandwiches as tops when it comes to combining the flavors, spices, ingredients and traditional cooking methods of Mexico. The torta pepito is made with a baked bolillo roll (similar to a baguette with its crunchy crust but with an oval shape) with bean spread, mayonnaise, lettuce, cheese and grilled chicken, pork or beef. It’s usually served warm, but also with cold deli meats such as ham or turkey. Guajolotas are sandwiches made by stuffing a tamale inside the bolillo roll and dressing it with a red chile sauce, mole or mayonnaise. Its combination of warm corn dough and bread is unique. A filling of tender pork tossed in a tomatillo sauce and topped with a mole and a sprinkle of oregano is quite tasty. Rounding out his trifecta of Mexican sandwiches is the pambazo. To create this hearty sandwich, a bolillo roll is soaked in a red-chile (guajillo) adobo made from guajillo chiles, onion, garlic, cinnamon and clove paste.