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Home , Galician wine, Godello, Monterrei (DO), Ribeira Sacra (DO), Ribeiro (DO), Terroir

appellations | By Gerry Dawes

’s -Driven

I have found my terroir heaven in the white wines of Atlantic-influenced Galicia in northwestern .

ver the course of some ten trips to Galicia over the French White Rivals past six years and from tastings in scores of bodegas, Galicia’s , Atlantic , varied mountain and seacoast I have become enamored with their grace, which mesoclimates, unique varieties, and individual comes from often delicious but seldom overripe (many of whom are women) are important in achieving a wide fruit,O a fine acidic balance, and moderate alcohol levels— diversity of white- types and styles that invite comparison to attributes that contribute to an exceptional affinity for a wide French wines. Potentially these Galician white wines made in the range of food and cooking styles. Even though many of them are Denominaciones de Origen (or DOs, Spain’s equivalent of France’s DAWES

rustic or works in progress, they show a distinct mineral-laced Appelations d’Origine Contrôlée or AOCs) Monterrei, Valdeorras, terruño—Spanish for terroir, the quality of earth (minerality) and Ribeira Sacra, Ribeiro, and the best known of all, , GERRY

BY

sense of place—that sets them apart from any other white wines can be on a par with the wines of France’s Loire , Alsace, in Spain. In the best of them, this haunting minerality becomes and even . imprinted on the drinker’s palate and makes one wish that the But the comparison runs even deeper. Galicia is the land of

bottle would never end. the mini fundia, the small inherited family plot. As into Burgundy PHOTOGRAPHS

62 SEPTEMBER 2008 | SANTÉ Albarino thrives in the Terras Guada in the O Rosal subzone of Rías Baixas.

SANTÉ | SEPTEMBER 2008 63 Spain

there are thousands of small Galicia sites around Galicia, many with distinct characteristics. Most of these DO Wine Regions used to be sold to cooperatives, Galicia: but as making one’s own wine became Rías Baixas more widespread, growers pulled out of the cooperatives and often hired a local Ribeiro enologist to guide them. Ole! Hundreds of small Ribeira Sacra estate sprang up across Galicia. Many are producing wines with native yeasts, which Monterrei provide another layer of diversity that separates Valdeorras the wines of one grower from those of another.

Best of Rías Baixas In defining a little-known wine region, I look for the best wine Asociación de Bodegueros Artesanos. They produce wines solely possible as an indicator of the quality achievable in that area. from vines that they own and farm, vinify using native yeasts, For example, ’s pointed to that exercise a minimum of intervention, and only very rarely use region’s potential long before that now-famous region became any . This group is led by Francisco “Paco” Dovalo, a grape a DO. There are many palatable Albariños from Galicia’s Rías farmer and lover of vinhos galegos verdadeiros—what he and his Baixas reaching these shores, but not all are on the same quality group of 16 wineries consider “true wines.” level. Exemplary wines are produced by Do Ferreiro, Pazo de Several of Dovalo’s group make outstanding distinctive terroir- Señorans, Fillaboa, Lusco, and the superb, ageworthy, grand driven wines, mostly from the Val do Salnés township of Meaño, -quality Palacio de Fefiñanes. which are all different interpretations of the Albariño grape Rías Baixas wines must be made from 100 percent Albariño to that vary from to winemaker and from plot to plot. use “Albariño” on the front label. But Rías Baixas also produces Most of these wines provide compelling drinking in their youth often more intriguing and complex blends, labeled simply “Rías but also are capable of aging for several years. Dovalo makes Baixas,” that reflect the terroir and native grapes of the subzones, Cabaleiro do Val, a distinguished deep green-gold, mineral- such as O Rosal, whose producers usually lace their Albariños laced wine. Other wines of note from this group are Manuel with the Loureiro and Caiño Blanco varieties, and Condado do Dovalo’s Rozas (haunting, lingering minerality in the finish), Tea, where winemakers’ use of sets them apart. Baldomero Domínguez’s Valdomero (wonderful minerality), Among the all-Albariño standouts are such wines as Lagar Eulogio Gondar’s very fine Lagar de Candes, José Pintos’s Lagar de Cervera, Terras Guada Abadia de San Campio, Torroxal, and de Broullón, and Ramón Domínguez’s Lagar de Rei. the Albariño–Loureiro–Caiño Blanco blends of Ruíz, Terras Gauda, and Torroxal. In the Condado do Tea subzone, Other Terroir Triumphs the aforementioned Fillaboa and Lusco are among the top- In Ribeiro there are excellent Treixadura blends from Emilio rated 100 percent Albariño wines. Also made here are the well- Rojo, Viña Mein, Manuel Formigo, and filmmaker José Luís regarded Pazo San Mauro and Gran Veigadares Albariños and Cuerda’s San Clodio, whose first wine, 2005, was superb, some delicious, reasonably priced blended whites, among them from vines only four years old at . In Valdeorras a number Pazo San Mauro’s Sanamauro, Marqués de Vizhoja’s Señor de of -based wines (whose noble terroir too often is obscured Folla Verde, Adegas Galegas Veigadares, and Coto Redondo by cellar manipulations—fermentation in new oak and battonage) Señorío de los Rubios—all with varying blends of Albariño, have surfaced and show incredible potential for this glorious Treixadura, and Loureiro. grape, especially when grown on slate or granite. The producers Godeval and Guitian have been in the United States markets Artisan Movement for years, but more recently a number of others have begun to Few people in the United States realize that the Val do Salnés surface: Telmo Rodríguez’s Gabo do Xil, Rafael Palacios’s As Sortes, district of Rías Baixas, where most of the commercial Albariños Valdesil’s Montenovo (always delicious and affordable), Pezas da come from, is home to a group of artisans calling themselves the Portela, intriguing newcomer Casal Novo, and the superb A

64 SEPTEMBER 2008 | SANTÉ High above the River in Ribeira Sacra, Fernando Gonzalez, proprietor of Adegas Alquiera Coroa. Monterrei is just beginning to garner , inspects his vines. attention with well-made, delicious whites such as Gargalo, Pazo de Monterrey, and Quinta da Muradella (which could do with less oak and battonage and lower alcohol), a wine in which winemaker-consultant and rising star Raúl Pérez has a hand. Ribeira Sacra may well be the most beautiful wine region on the planet. Producers here are just beginning to surface, and most of the wines are predominantly red. Depending on the specific area in Ribeira Sacra where the grapes are sourced, some wines have the potential of great What Is a Galician Burgundy while others are reminiscent of the best –based wines of the ? Loire. The whites are made from Godello, grown on this same slate and schist, and their potential is mind-boggling. One bottle of Pena GENERAL CHARACTERISTICS Das Donas Alma Larga Godello, though still a work in Fresh, crisp acidity; balance; bright fruit; and moderate alcohol progress, will send you mumbling off into the night levels are the hallmarks of Galician white wines. Their flavors range wondering when will be the next time you will get to from tropical and pear flavors in the widely distributed Rías Baixas enjoy a wine with such an incredible, terroir-laced, grand Albariños to white-peach and stone-fruit flavors coupled with a long, cru white Burgundy-like finish. mineral-laced finish from Galicia’s distinctive in places such as Monterrei, Ribeira Sacra, Ribeiro, and Valdeorras. Galician Advantage The Loureiro grape of the Rías Baixas subzone, O Rosal, and I am not alone among writers in being a terroirista, and Treixadura in the Condado do Tea subzone add complexity and more wine buyers these days are talking about terroir, nuances when blended with Albariño. Treixadura in Ribeiro is the which is rapidly becoming a buzzword in the United base wine for yet other intriguing Galician blends that may include States and . A new generation of young wine any combination of Albariño, Godello, Loureiro, Lado, Torrontés, and lovers, wine directors, and is catching on Caiño Blanco. quickly to what those of the 1960s and 1970s generation knew about terroir—before the advent of the monster AGING wine era. For example, Gretchen Thomas, wine director For most Galician white wines, the prevailing thought is to them of the Barcelona Wine Bars group in Connecticut, up within a year of the vintage. Better Albariños, if properly cellared, espouses the following view: “As for terroir, I have a strong will continue to drink well for a few years, and I have tasted wines opinion about indigenous varieties, which on the surface at Palacio de Fefiñanes back to 1996 that were sublime, as well as may seem contradictory. It’s not just a region’s climate, several wines from the Bodegueros Artesanos group (especially soil composition, proximity to water, and vineyard aspect Cabaleiro Do Val, Rozas, and Valdomero) that have aged gracefully. that ultimately express terroir in a finished wine. It’s also Some Godellos from the best producers in Valdeorras and Ribeira the relationship of all of those elements to the varieties Sacra may be as ageworthy as grand cru white Burgundies. of a particular area themselves, which have adapted and evolved specifically to its conditions. Galician whites are RECENT true expressions of their terroir, with the best packed The Rías Baixas Regulatory Council considers 2007, 2006, 2005, with wet-stone minerality.” and 2004 to be years with perfect grape ripening. Beyond this broad Restaurant wine buyers looking for wines with a assessment, focus on the producer, not the vintage, unless the mouthwatering acidity, which makes them exceptionally harvest is thought to be downright disastrous. A great producer has versatile and food friendly, will find their white-wine to make the best wine possible in any vintage to maintain the house’s nirvana in Galicia. As many wine directors are learning, reputation. Also trust your best wine representatives to get a good terroir-driven Galician wines also have an appeal that idea of how each vintage differs, and buy accordingly. goes far beyond the palates of dedicated terroiristas. They are attractive to just about anyone who loves great white wines—and second-glass and second-bottle sales are a good bet.

SANTÉ | SEPTEMBER 2008 65 Reviewer’s Choice by Gerry Dawes

Emilio Rojo 2006 / Ribeiro Pazo de Señorans 2002 Selección de Añada / Rías Baixas 55% Treixadura, 15% Loureiro, 10% Albariño, 100% Albariño 10% Lado, 10% Torrontés Lime, pear, minerals, and aromas. Superbly balanced Aromas of white peach, almond, and spice. Fine acid mélange of lime and lovely, mouth-filling sweet fruit (pear balance highlights those same flavors on the palate; and a hint of mango); persistent finish. Baked red snapper, minerals in the finish. Grilled fish, shellfish, Asian food. oysters, clams, steamed cockles, crustaceans.

Lusco 2006 Albariño Pazo Piñero de Lusco / Valdesil 2006 Godello Montenovo / Valdeorras Rías Baixas 100% Godello 100% Albariño Stone fruits, mandarin orange, and minerals on both the Brilliant terroir aromas of citrus, pear, and white peach. nose and the palate, with graceful and delicious sweet Substantial palate of rich pear and stone-fruit flavors laced fruit, good acidity, citrus peel, and coconut. Wide range with complex mandarin orange and spices; long mineral of appetizers and main courses calling for fine white wine. finish. High-end modern cuisine, seafood. Good value.

Ellisa Cooper (winewithellisa.com), a youngest-vine versions are still more top New York City wine consultant who pleasant than any quaffable Pinot Grigio.” works with a number of restaurants and “Lately we are seeing more interest in stores, also ranks the wines of Galicia Godello, as its popularity in Manhattan high on her list of priorities. “For my spills over into the Connecticut market,” most recent project, Picada y Vino, a continues Thomas. “This is a great galicia’s superboutique wine store in Park Slope, change in trend, because as the demand best on the list Brooklyn, our focus has been on several for Albariños from Rías Baixas keeps aspects [that] are on the lips of every increasing, so does the production from By now most American wine buyers and conscientious wine buyer in New York: newly planted vineyards and, predictably, consumers are well aware of Rías Baixas clean/green farming practices, natural the price. The Godellos of Valdeorras, Albariños, so much so that the United yeasts, judicious use of oak, women however, are still relatively unknown, so States has become the region’s biggest winemakers. Terroir-driven Albariños, the values are incredible. We are pouring export market. But fewer restaurant Godellos, and Mencias will [compose] the Bodega Valdesil Montenovo by the patrons are aware that world-class whites not only a large percentage of wines from glass right now. The wine has clean wait in the wings of the Spain we will carry, but a large portion of aromas of ocean sprays and fresh lemon stage. As Roger Kugler, wine director the overall collection.” juice with a slight creaminess on the at New York City’s Suba and Boqueria “In my opinion, Galicia is among the palate. Anyone who enjoys Cru Chablis restaurants, points out, “Valdeorras, very best of the white-wine-producing should definitely seek out the Galician Monterrei, Ribeiro, and Ribeira Sacra regions of the world—along with the Godellos.” don’t have the recognition or identity yet in France—for producing that Rías Baixas enjoys, so guests have highly mineral-driven wines with great to be led to those wines. Ribeira Sacra, ageability,” says Gretchen Thomas, Gerry Dawes has reported on , however, is one of the most exciting wine director for the highly successful food, and travel as a writer and photographer regions to come to light in recent memory. Barcelona Wine Bars Group, which has for more than 25 years, contributing to Already the wines have a clear identity five venues in Connecticut. “The Albariños numerous publications in both English (this is the terroir singing out). Even the of Rías Baixas have completely dominated and Spanish. In 2004 he was awarded the wines that contradict rational thinking in sales at our restaurants above all other prestigious Premio Nacional de Gastronomía (oaked Godellos, for instance) have been white wines. I believe [high sales are] (Spanish National Gastronomy Prize). interesting. . . . This could be the next due to the perfumey, fruit-driven nature great wine region of the world.” of the . Even the least expensive,

66 SEPTEMBER 2008 | SANTÉ