Acta Geoturistica volume 3 (2012), number 1, 16-25

Interweaving Geological and Cultural Heritages in the Context of Limited Accessibility – an Example from

WIKTOR GŁOWACKI ul. Rydla 14/24, 30-130 Kraków, Poland (E-mail: [email protected])

ABSTRACT The following paper highlights the importance of accessibility, with particular emphasis on public transport, as a factor enabling hiking in relatively large region with numerous sites of outstanding natural and cultural value. The region under consideration is a part Spanish . Namely massifs of Monte Perdido and both located in Aragon. The paper is predominantly based on personal experience and observations, which the author gained during his trip in September 2008.

Keywords : geological heritage, cultural heritage, accessibility, Pyrenees

INTRODUCTION usually divided into the following geological units. The route of the author has led through Pyrenees axial (Fig. 1) – the oldest unit two different parts of Pyrenees. The first built mainly of Paleozoic sediments out of was the massif of Monte Perdido with its which granite batoliths stand out surroundings and the second was Sierra de surrounded with metamorphic zones. Guara situated at the southern foothill of the Granite massifs form the highest parts of first part. Both mountain groups are situated the mountain range along the Spanish- in the north of the Spanish region of French border often exceeding the height of Aragon. As a tourist destination this area 3000 m asl. In Aragon Pyrenees these are apparently seems to be in a shadow of other Balaitous 3146 m asl.), Perdiguero (3222 m more popular regions. On one hand asl.), Posets (3369 m asl.) and the massif Pyrenees as mountains seem to be less -Maladeta with the highest summit of attractive than Alps and within they Pyrenees Aneto 3403.5 m asl.). Their seem to be less attractive than metamorphic zones form slightly lower Mediterranean coast. However the author is mountains (Infiernos, Vallebierna, Sierra sure that anybody who for any reason visits Negra) built of shale and marble. this area will not regret it. Rough Sedimentary rocks are Silurian and mountainous nature with a variety of rocky Carboniferous slates (zone Carier, forms is so impressive that it is really Castaneza); Devonian limestone of Pena difficult not to pay any attention to geology Foratata and Carboniferous limestone from regardless of the educational background of the zone of as well as Permian- the tourist. Triassic sandstones and conglomerates from Canal Roya and Aiguas Tuertas. Internal mountains – (in Spanish OUTLINE OF THE GEOLOGICAL “Sierras Interiores”) is the unit adjacent to STRUCTURE OF PYRENEES the previous one. This part of Pyrenees is built of Mesozoic and Paleocene sediments. The whole mountain range of Pyrenees is These are predominantly limestone of

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Acta Geoturistica volume 3 (2012), number 1, 16-25

Fig. 1 Outline of the geological structure of Aragon, Source: [7], Pyrenees: 1 – Pyrenees axial Paleozoic; 2 - Pre-Pyrenees Meso-Cainozoic; Cordillera Iberica: 3 – Paleozoic; 4 – Trias and Jura 5- Cretaceous Basin of Ebro and Internal Depression: 6 – Oligocene; 7 – Miocene

different purity sometimes they are mixed north from Canal de Berdun, Sierras de with sandstones. The huge band of Biescas, Sobremonte, Sobrepuerto, Oturia, limestone extends from Alanos near the and Cotefablo as well as on the northern town Zuriza in the east through Petraforca, outline of the Aran Valley in La Fueba and ; to Aspe and -Pala de Ip- in the Isabena Valley. The proper Punta Escarra (surroundings of Canfranc) depression is filled in mainly with marls. and then through the Valley Tena-Otal it On its southern fringe there is a stripe of joins the huge nappe of Gabarnie-Monte conglomerates folded in the end of alpine Perdido and Cotiella so as to reach its orogenesis. They can be seen in the western end in Jurassic limestone of surroundings of San Juan de la Pena, Oroel Turbon. and Cancias. Finally the synclinorium La Intra-Pyrenean Depression - (in Spanish Guarga is filled in predominantly with grey “Depresion intrapirenaica”) this unit itself and grey-blue marls. consists of three different subunits. Namely External mountains or Pre-Pyrenees (in flysh, proper depression and synclinorium Spanish “Sierras exteriors o Prepirineo”) – la Gurga. Pyrenean flysh similarly to flysh is the last and the southernmost unit, which sediments known from other mountain has contact with sediments of Ebro Valley. ranges consists of Eocene deep see It is built mainly of limestone. Tectonically sedimentary rocks – alternate layers of external mountains are the last folds of the sandstone, marl and clay. These sediments nappe, which slide from Gavarnie. The had been strongly folded during the alpine following mountain groups belong to this orogenesis. These rocks occur on the unit: Sierras de Santo Domingo, Loarre, La surface in outlines of mountain groups to Pena, Gratal and Guara [6].

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Acta Geoturistica volume 3 (2012), number 1, 16-25

The route of the author (Fig. 2) starts at the village owns its beauty to the picturesque Village of Torla in Pyrenees then it runs location on a small hill over the deep valley through the Valley Ordesa, southern slopes of Ara river surrounded with much higher of Monte Perdido to Pineta Valley and the mountains and to its architecture. A small village of Bielsa. Next to the town densely built up village with all and then enters Sierra de Guara where it characteristics of traditional Pyrenean runs through villages of Arcusa and Lecina architecture (thick walls built of stones, to the end in the village of Alquezar. So its elegant gates of houses, decorative northern part crosses Internal Mountains chimneys). The tower of the parish church (Sierras interiores ) whereas its southern dated to XVIth century dominates the group part runs through External Mountains of buildings. Torla had changed its function (Sierras exteriores ). The diversity of rocks many times in its long history. Being a and landscapes is accompanied here with border fortress for centuries it became a numerous monuments of human history, smuggling centre in 40s and 50s years of which date back to different époques from XXth century but now it is purely tourist pre-history to relatively recent and painful village. memories of the Spanish civil war. Frequent bus service from Torla to Pradera de Ordesa makes the locality a real gate the National Park of Ordesa y Monte NATURAL AND CULTURAL ASSETS Perdido the oldest national park in Spain. IN THE SURROUNDINGS OF MONTE called sometimes a canyon PERDIDO constitutes the core part of the national park. Bus delivers tourist to the place called Torla can be reached by public transport Pradera de Ordesa. Upstream one have to with the only bus which arrives here from go by foot. the town of Sabinanigo about the noon. The The elevation of valley’s bottom spans

Fig. 2 Author’s route, Source : [9]

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Acta Geoturistica volume 3 (2012), number 1, 16-25

Fig. 3 Ordesa Valley, Photo by : author from slightly above 1400 m asl at Pradera meadows, small bushes and large areas of de Ordesa to above 1600 m asl at Soaso naked rocks. To make the picture complete whereas the elevation of upper edges of one should add that marmots are often seen both slopes fairly exceeds 2200 m asl. So on meadows or among stones as well as the very depth makes the valley very vultures on the sky. impressive. Glaciers shaped the valley in The author did not reach the very peak of the “U” form during the quaternary this mountain. However Monte Perdido glaciations and then it has been modeled by with its elevation of 3355 m asl is certainly fluvial erosion. As a result one can see a worthy to climb as the highest limestone canyon-like valley, which in some parts has peak of Europe. The mountain hut “Refugio more “U” shape and in other parts more de G όriz” enables climbing the peak within “V” shape with two or three rocky steps on one day. However there is usually very its slopes curved in cretaceous limestone short period in the year when the path is (Fig. 3). Tectonically the area is very free from snow and ice. It is usually the complicated and there is a number of first half of September. Access for tourists recumbent folds cut with the valley in such is possible from south-western side whereas a way that slopes of the valley make a false the north eastern slope is covered with a impression of little disturbed, almost glacier. horizontal layout of rock layers [6]. The Anisclo Canyon is similar to Ordesa as Arazar river has a few waterfalls out of regards geology but it is less famous and which the Cola del Caballo (a horsetail) wilder. It is also particularly valuable as a seems to be the best known. The lower habitat of some endemic plants. It is located parts of the valley are forested. In the upper to east from Ordesa valley. Two part near the place called Guidas de Soaso particularly exciting marked footpaths lead the forests reaches its upper border with through its upper part. Ruta de abajo rare single dwarf pines and gives place to enables visiting the bottom of the canyon

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Acta Geoturistica volume 3 (2012), number 1, 16-25 whereas Ruta de arriba provides execellent Now, Bielsa is a tourist village with a view from slopes of Monte Perdido to number of shops, restaurants and mountain Pico Interior de Anisclo rising on accommodation facilities. It has the only the opposite side of the canyon with clearly bus connection with Ainsa - the centre of visible fold structures on its slopes. the district. It has operated every second The glacial U-shape Pineta Valley is day on weekdays. So only on Monday located to east from Monte Perdido. Its Wednesday and Friday morning one can upper part is surrounded with magnificent leave Bielsa or arrive there by bus. summits of the main ridge of Pyrenees. It is The historic centre of Ainsa is a jewel of drained by Cinca river which in its upper medieval architecture. It is situated on a hill part is only a periodical watercourse. at the junction of Ara and Cinca rivers. The Special educational path provides the historic quarter constitutes well preserved opportunity to learn about the geological complex of stone-built houses built closely history, relief and vegetation. Tourists can one to another along narrow streets with find a shelter for the night in the mountain several churches market square and walls of hut Valle del Pineta. Asphalt road runs the castle. Its beginning dates back to early along the Valley to the nearest settlement stage of Reconquest when Ainsa was a Bielsa. However the valley is not served by capital of the Kingdom of Sobrarbe, which any means of public transport. later was incorporated into Aragon. It is Bielsa together with the neighbouring really difficult to judge what is more village of Javierre form a settlement interesting: the architecture on the hill or picturesquely situated at the junction of two the view from the hill to Pyrenean summits. Pyrenean valleys Valle de Pineta and Valle Ainsa has relatively many bus de Bielsa. A few historic buildings are connections with other towns and cities of monuments of the long history of both Aragon and Bus station is combined with a villages. The Romanesque Church in bar and in the morning this is the only open Javierre dates back to XII century; the building in the town. parish church in Bielsa was built in XVII century as well as the Town Hall of Bielsa whose renaissance facade is one of the most SITES OF INTEREST BETWEEN beautiful architectural monuments in the TWO MOUNTAIN GROUPS whole district. However the majority of buildings are relatively new. This is the The area between High Pyrenees and result of tragic events of the Spanish civil Sierra de Guara apparently seems to be far war. Namely Bielsa with its surroundings less attractive than neighbouring mountains. formed so called “Bolsa de Bielsa” (The However a closer look let the tourist realise Sack of Bielsa) i.e. the area of long lasting that this first impression is false and that resistance of republican forces against lower altitude is compensated here with a Franco forces. In the end of the fight a lot particular harmony between historic of inhabitants fled out to through settlements and diversified relief. This Pyrenees and settlements were heavily refers not only to Ainsa but also to the destroyed. The monument in the centre of whole area between this historic town and Bielsa commemorates victims of the war. the village of Arcusa. To begin with the There is also an exhibition in the local chapel of San Lino, which stands lonely museum dedicated to those events. among dry grey pastures A few kilometres Furthermore the local cemetery where the further to the south the village Santa Maria oldest existing graves bear dates from early de Buil and its hamlet San Martin 70s and relics of older graves date to 30s picturesquely stick to slopes of a rocky hill . also reflects the gap in the development of The church of Santa Maria was built in the settlement. XVth century in Aragon gothic style

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Acta Geoturistica volume 3 (2012), number 1, 16-25 whereas the Romanesque church of San tributary called La Choca. Rocky Martin dates to XIth century. Next, the precipitous slopes of canyons are full of picturesque village of Arcusa, with such caves, which in Spanish are called traditional Aragonian stone-built houses Abrigos or Covachos . [1] A few of them with characteristic decorative chimneys. contain prehistoric paintings. They brought Furthermore the area provides good to this valley the fame similar to cave opportunity to learn about scarcity of water paintings known from Altamira as well as a in this dry area and ways of storing this few other regions of Spain i.e. Vizcaya, precious resource. The modern water Asturia, Guadalajara and Málaga [3]. reservoir on Cinca River is visible to the Prehistoric paintings in Vero valley east. Moreover a traditional roofed intake of represent different styles which developed water serving for watering cattle as well as in the area between 20 000 B.C and 1500 a small irrigated vegetable garden can be B.C. [5] Those in Barfaluy (Fig.5) represent seen at the entrance to Arcusa. The area is the schematic style and date back to 5000 – sparsely populated; some villages are not 1500 B.C. Pictures are small but silhouettes inhabited permanently. So, tourist cannot of prehistoric inhabitants of the valley are count here on public transport. still clear. Near the village of Lecina the Vero River Down the Vero river finds in its course a huge massif of The famous Vero River as a permanent limestone particularly resistant to erosion. watercourse has its beginning in the big Therefore this relatively small area is cut karst spring called in Spanish Fuente de through the network of deep narrow Lecina (the spring of Lecina). However as a canyons formed by the Vero River as well pre-Pyrenean river of Mediterranean regime as its tributaries. The latter are only it has a very irregular alimentation. So the periodically drained and have in Spanish a upper part of the Vero basin is drained with separate name ‘Barrancos”. Vertical rocky periodical watercourses only. The dry walls of canyons make the area particularly stretch of this river has its beginning near difficult to pass through, as there are few the village El Pueyo de Morcat. Initially it places where an ordinary hiker can cross runs southwards in a relatively narrow and the canyon. On the other hand the Vero deep valley. Then it turns to southeast and canon is popular among funs of canyoning. flows into a wide and plain part of the They consider this canyon quite easy even valley with villages Paules de Sarsa on left for beginners in this sport. Narrow asphalt bank and Santa Maria de la Nuez on the road dwindles on the left side of the valley right bank. The latter village is proud of its with few opportunities to look down into XVIth century sanctuary, which is now the canyon. Similarly to other parts of the being renovated. Downstream the valley Lecina has no public transport landscaped changes and the plain gives connections. place to hills (Fig. 4) where the dry bed of Following tips of the hotel owner in the river meanders between slopes built of Lecina the author managed to go by foot white marl covered with bushes. through this labirynth of canyons. The path Walking further one can reach the village led first down to the spring of Lecina of Lecina. Here starts the most attractive (Fuente de Lecina) a big karst spring, which part of Vero Valley. One of the most gives the beginning to the Vero River as a breathtaking places is called “Abrigos de permanent watercourse as well as it Barfaluy”. This name encompasses a supplies tap water for Lecina. Then it number of shallow caves situated to the ascended the left edge of the canyon with south of the village at the merging point of breathtaking view to the bottom of the two deep and narrow limestone canyons. canyon with the relics of the watermill. The Canyon of Vero River and its right Then it led to the next cave with prehistoric

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Acta Geoturistica volume 3 (2012), number 1, 16-25 paintings. This time it was “Abrigo de Canyon and the ravine “Barranco de Arpan” with the impressive picture of a Lumos” to the bottom of Vero canyon stag. This picture represents Levantine style (Fig. 6) at the bridge of Villacantal. Here and was painted between 12000 and 5000 water of the stream lets tourists relax a bit B.C. Further the route continued through before ascending the right side of the the hill Pena Bolada hanging over the Vero canyon and entering Alquezar.

Fig. 4 Dry part of Vero Valley, Photo by : author

Fig. 5 Prehistoric paintings in Abrigos de Barfaluy, Photo by : author

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Acta Geoturistica volume 3 (2012), number 1, 16-25

Fig. 6 Vero Canyon, Photo by : author

This village is situated on a rocky hill that NATURE PROTECTION rises over the Vero valley. Its name is of Arabic origin as there was a fortress Geopark is a form of protection of guarding the northern border of Muslim geological heritage and simultaneously state in early Middle Age. When captured geotourism is closely related to nature by Christians during the reconquest it protection [4]. No wonder then, that the guarded southern border of Christian state. bulk of the above described objects With the progress of the reconquest the administratively located in Sobrarbe border moved further to the south and district, is covered with a number of natural Alquezar lost its military importance. So, protected areas. Chronologically National the castle was converted into a monastery. Park Ordesa y Monte Perdido was the first Now the Collegiate Church of Santa Maria of them established in 1918 and and the castle are the two most important significantly extended in 1982. In 1977 monuments in this historic village. Main UNESCO established Biosphere Reserve buildings of the church and the monastery Ordesa-Viñamala , which covered a great date from the XIV century although some deal of National Park with adjacent areas. parts are much older e.g. the watchtower Natural Park Sierra y Canones de Guara from XI century. The whole settlement is was established in 1990. Next natural park densely built-up with old small stone named Posets-Maladeta was established in houses. Together with narrow streets it 1994 (Fig. 7). It covers the area located to creates the historic character of the village. east from National Park Ordesa y Monte The lighting makes its night view Perdido. particularly impressive. The rocky canyon Moreover the Nature 2000 network of Vero ends a few kilometres to south overlaps these areas with 10 areas of from Alquezar and the river flows further. It Community Interest and 3 bird habitat debouches into plain of Ebro. Its floodplain areas. Furthermore the whole administrative is interesting from purely geological point district of Sobrarbe constitutes Sobrarbe of view [2] but it is far less attractive for Geopark, included in European Geopark tourists. Network since 2006. Exceptional

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Acta Geoturistica volume 3 (2012), number 1, 16-25

Fig. 7 Geopark Sobrarbe and other protected areas, Source: [8] combination of prehistoric paintings and terms of geo-touristic, cultural and other landscape of the canyon of Vero was main attractions. It creates favorable conditions reason for establishing Cultural Park of for long foot- or bike-trips, which lasts a Vero River in 2001. However UNESCO few days. Numerous marked paths help to declared the very prehistoric paintings from find the way across the region. the valley as World Heritage already in Simultaneously, evenly distributed natural 1998. assets remain in contrast with uneven and fragmented provision of public transport services. The most frequent bus service is POTENTIAL OF CONTINUITY between Torla and Pradera de Ordesa in the VERSUS PUBLIC TRANSPORT Ordesa Valley. Here buses run every half an CONSTRAINTS hour all day. The purpose of this arrangement is to protect the national park The above described variety of protection against the air pollution and noise caused forms indicates clearly that the whole area by individual vehicles. However the very of Sobrarbe districts is highly attractive in village of Torla is connected with the rest of

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Acta Geoturistica volume 3 (2012), number 1, 16-25

Aragon with the only bus that goes from connections is necessary for them to start Sabinanigo to Ainsa and back once a day. and to finish their trip, regardless of the Any tourist, who crosses mountains possession of a private car. So, public between Ordesa Valley and Pineta Valley, transport should be regarded as necessary cannot rely on similar service in the latter. element enabling any geopark to perform its Then the only bus runs from Bielsa to statutory functions. Ainsa only every second weekday. Ainsa has may bus connections with other cities of Aragon but villages between Ainsa and REFERENCES Alquezar are not served at all and again the village of Alquezar (touristic centre of Vero 1. BALLARIN, O.: Parque Natural de la Sierra y Canones de Guara II Guia Excursionista, Prames, Valley) has the only connection with the Zaragoza 2002. district city of only on 2. JONES, J.S., FROSTICK, L.E., ASTIN, T.R.: schooldays. Braided stream and flood plain architecture: the Rio Vero Formation, Spanish Pyrenees. Sedimentary Geology, Vol. 139, Issues 3-4, pages 229-260, 1 March 2001, Elsevier Science CONCLUSIONS B.V. 3. KUCAŁA, D.: Hiszpania, Trio, Warsaw 2003. The above described case of Sobrarbe 4. SŁOMKA, T., KICI ŃSKA-ŚWIDERSKA, A., geopark illustrates clearly that public Geoturystyka – podstawowe poj ęcia, transport should be seen not only as a Geoturystyka I (2004) 5-7, 2004. 5. http://www.somontano.org/turismo_cont_conoce measure reducing air pollution and noise .asp?m=rupestre “El Arte Rupestre” caused by individual transport. Furthermore 6. http://www.naturalezadearagon.com/geologia/pg it is not only a substitute of private car in 026.php Parque Nacional de Ordesa y Monte protected areas. In large areas of continuous Perdido (). El Patrimonio Geologico attractiveness it is logical that some tourists Aragones. Geologia en Aragon. Espana“ 7. http://naturalezadearagon.com/geologia/unidades choose multi-day foot trip as the best way .php “Unidades Geologicas de Aragon” to get to know the area. Therefore the 8. http://www.turismosobrarbe.com provision of adequate public service 9. http://www.vacances-location.net

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