June 21, 2004 The Antarctic Sun •11 Celebrating midpoint in the polar night By Kristan Hutchison From the midwinter feast shared by Roald Amundsen and Sun staff his crew below, to the cabled greetings sent between stations since the 1950s, Antarctic winter traditions continue. his weekend Antarctic winter crews toast the dark- ness rather than curse it, cel- Tebrating Midwinter’s Day, a holiday of unique importance to the most southerly continent. Solstice marks the midpoint in the long, dark Antarctic winter, when the sun ceases moving north and begins its slow return south. This year the sun will reach its northernmost point at 8:57 p.m. pep- June 20 Eastern Daylight Time. Because of time differences and where the international dateline per and potato pancakes, pumpkin falls, it will be June 21 at some raviolis and sticky rice dumplings. Antarctic stations, including The cafeteria is transformed with McMurdo decorations and linen table cloths. Midwinter’s Day was first cel- Below, the midwinter photo sent The greatest transformation is the ebrated in 1898 by the crew of the this year from the South Pole. people themselves, who for one Belgica, which spent the winter evening doff heavy parkas and trapped in ice below the Antarctic Carrhart overalls to appear unrecog- Circle. Modern research stations nizably refined in button-down shirts developed their own traditions. or dresses. Scientists and support staff at the “Midwinter is a time of celebrat- three stations run by the U.S. ing and I usually feel like ‘Wow, National Science Foundation take we’re halfway done already?’” said an extra day off, creating a long Lynn Hamann. “Last year, we had a weekend. Usually they work six fancy dinner in the galley with lots of days a week. starlight decorations, a dance, table- “Midwinter sort of sneaks up cloths and wine, and we all dressed on you,” said South Pole station up for the occasion.” manager Pete Koson. “We are all This year the menu includes roast staying pretty busy down here, duckling, green lip mussels and which I think helps keep your Napoleon of halibut, crab and shrimp mind off the little things you with saffron, garlic and thyme sauce. might start to miss.” “I have a very creative staff and For Midwinter they trade good expect a wonderful meal,” wrote wishes with other stations around the conti- Brazilian Antarctic Program in 2001. McMurdo chef Jan Jasperson. nent and even the White House. President “Now that the longest night has passed, Each of the 44 Antarctic stations cele- Eisenhower began the custom of sending an let’s cheer the forthcoming return of the brates with its own set of midwinter tradi- official greeting to the Antarctic stations on sun and let its brightness and warmth raise tions. A few people from McMurdo Midwinter’s Day. In recent years other our spirits.” Station usually visit New Zealand’s Scott world leaders have followed suit, including As the early explorers did, today’s winter Base next door for the Polar Plunge. the British and Indian prime ministers. crew dress in their best and feast in style. Hardy - or foolhardy - souls jump into a “People involved in Antarctic activities At McMurdo Station the midwinter hole cut in ice meters thick to dunk in sub- know the hardship and loneliness some of meal starts with a cocktail hour. The sta- freezing water. The landlocked South Pole you are experiencing down South and tion managers act as waiters, pouring wine crew has its own version - the 300 Club. have high respect for the work of all expe- and serving an assortment of hors d’oeu- Joining the 300 Club can happen only on ditionary,” read a message from the vres: blackened sea scallops with tomato chili pepper and cumin aioli, roasted red See Midwinter on page 12 April 10 April 16 April 19 April 21 An emergency medical Science technicians at A partial solar Palmer residents flight picked up three ARO pressed the red eclipse was visible recognized Earth Day sick people at WINTER button, turn- on Palmer Peninsula. by sending the divers McMurdo Station and ing off solar instru- down to clean debris dropped off groceries ments on the roof until from the seafloor and mail. All three the sun returns in beside the pier. recovered well. September. 12 • The Antarctic Sun June 21, 2004

Midwinter From page 11 days when the temperature outside drops to or below -100F ambient temperature. Then the sauna is cranked to 200F and people run from one temperature extreme to the other lightly clad. At Palmer Station, people just jump off the dock into the har- bor. For Palmer Station, June 21 is the day they wave goodbye to the research vessel Laurence M. Gould as it leaves them iso- lated for three months. The 19 people left at Palmer celebrate by sitting down togeth- Typical winter er for a large meal, said station manager greeting from Rocky Ness. Palmer Station. “For us it’s going to be the start of our Many of the same winter, where there’s one small group people are back that’s alone together uninterrupted, but it’s this year. also beginning to be the end of winter at the same time because the days are getting sledge runners, wrote Stuart Wallace, a the darkness. longer,” Ness said. “It’s kind of a contra- past winterer at Rothera. When the day The winter staff have quickly become diction, both the beginning and the end.” itself arrives, the BBC World Service as attuned to the phases of the moon as we Both are worth celebrating, said Ness, broadcasts a special half-hour radio show usually are to the daily track of the sun who enjoys the solitude of winter. for the winter crews at Rothera, Halley and across the summer sky. Waiting for the “I like that feeling of just kind of being Bird Island. The broadcasters read mes- new moon, their eyes adjust to starlight. on our own,” he said. “There’s less change. sages from the families and friends of “Words are not suitable to describe the You know who you’re wintering with.” everyone wintering, and play a song clear night skies with millions of colorful- Because it’s just short of the Antarctic requested by each station. ly twinkling bright stars in formations we Circle, Palmer never loses the sun com- The type of celebration may vary from don’t see in the States, such as the pletely. Even on Midwinter’s Day they get station to station, but they all share a sense Southern Cross,” wrote Hamann. “The daylight from about 10 a.m. to 2 p.m., of isolation, and a comradery across the ‘upside down’ moon is breathtaking, espe- though it’s usually muted by clouds. Still, ice. cially in those dark months in Antarctica in they look forward to the day when the sun “Not everyone is cut out to be a winter- the winter. The full moon is so bright in rises above the mountains that blocking it over,” wrote Lynn Hamann, now in her May, June and July it seems like the sun.” from direct view in midwinter. third winter working for supply at But nothing really can replace sunlight, “At Palmer the first time the sun clears McMurdo Station. “It takes a certain kind the vital source of vitamin D that triggers the glacier, where you can see it, that’s of stamina. When the blanket of darkness our bodies’ sleeping and waking cycles. when people are like, ‘Whoohoo! Winter’s is gently thrown over Antarctica and one Without it, people often find themselves about over,” Ness said. has four long months of night to look for- sleeping more and feeling sluggish. Midwinter celebrations at Australia’s ward to, it can be overwhelming for some, June 20 is the turning point in the sun’s Casey Station typically start with a cham- both physically (circadian rhythms) and seasonal circuit, the longest summer day in pagne brunch, followed by a short dip in mentally (depression).” the northern hemisphere and midnight in the Antarctic water and a longer soak in The sun set for the winter three months the southern winter’s night. From now on their outdoor hot tub, wrote John Rich, a ago at the South Pole and two months ago Antarcticans will be counting down until past station leader at Casey. The meal starts at McMurdo Station on the coast. Twilight dawn, coming first to McMurdo August 21 formally, then relaxes into an evening of lingered about a month after, but since then and then to the South Pole September 23. poetry reading, music and skits. the scientists, construction crews and sup- “I am sure that other people are reflec- At the British Rothera Station, the entire port staff have lived in the dark, day and tive (as I am) about when the next time we week before Midwinter’s Day is dedicated night. At the South Pole they can’t even see the sun will be,” Koson said. “But of to preparations, with all but the most nec- turn on lamps to light their way, since tele- course, the sunrise isn’t even close to the essary station duties put on hold while peo- scopes in the Dark Sector rely on the con- end of the winter, just another milestone of ple plan games, go skiing and secretly stant darkness. The windows are all shut- sorts, along with last flight, sunset, total work on a handmade gift for the exchange, tered to keep indoor lights from polluting dark, midwinter, first light and first flight.” such as picture frames made from old

May 5 May 16 June 20-21 June 21 July 4 A lunar eclipse was A storm laid waste to (depending what side of The Gould will The U.S. stations will the dateline you’re on) visible at McMurdo. McMurdo Station, leave 19 people at celebrate American Palmer residents tearing out doors and Palmer Station, where Independence Day in couldn’t see it, but cel- windows, but hurting Midwinter’s they will be isolated the dark. McMurdo ebrated Cinco de Mayo nobody. for three months while usually holds a with a fiesta and piña- Day the ship goes into dry carnival and indoor ta. dock. parade.