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PPSOP Lesson 4 PPSOP.net - Sean Arbabi LESSON 4 Lighting NATURE & LANDSCAPE Flash Filters Macro photography PHOTOGRAPHY Capturing Wildlife HEAVEN AND EARTH, NEAR SEQUOIA NATIONAL PARK, CA When comparing this scene above to the image at bottom left (only shot an hour or so earlier ) we can see how the sunset light dramatically changed this layered landscape of USING LIGHT IN THE FIELD the Sierra foothills. Shot with a 300mm lens, exposed at f/11 for 1/500 sec., ISO 100 Choosing times of day and direction to take advantage of light Light is critical to producing impressive landscape imagery. Utilizing light and contrast effectively in the field is just as essential - a key component that should a part of every nature photographer’s arsenal. Under most conditions, light sets the mood in an image, creates focus on the subject, and can add that intangible jaw-dropping wow response. However, when people travel, take tours, or visit locations, the majority of photographers capture images during the most convenient yet some of the worst times of day, usually between 10am to 4pm- not the optimal time for quality image-making. I’ll share a few rules of thumb with lighting, but once again recognize these guidelines are a starting point. In the past I’ve gone against the grain and worked in many different lighting scenarios producing great outdoor images, but only because I was aware of how the light would affect my final scene. [1] Learning about light If you can recognize what light works best for which subject matter, whether through the direction or exposure you shoot, you can begin to optimize your time in the outdoors utilizing the existing light well. Knowing how light reacts in certain situations affords you to opportunity to benefit from what may seem to be a drawback to another photographer, but this takes time and experience. It is what I call the quiet eye - the ability to notice subtleties and oncoming change, and how to make it work to your advantage. Once while running a workshop I was asked why I felt waking before dawn, or staying out until dusk, would help produce better images. The student felt she captured her best shots during brighter times of day. Most likely her captures were with faster exposures, which may have lead to sharper images depending on her techniques (or lack there of), fooling her into believing these times of day were better. But different times of day produce different types of lighting, color, and even weather. Since color is also a big part of the aesthetics of nature, a powerful form a nonverbal communication, picking the right time of day can alter color in a scene, making or breaking your photograph. Magic Hour, Dawn, Dusk Magic Hour or Golden Hour is the 30 minutes before and after sunset and 30 minutes before and after sunrise. Called magic or golden because of the wonderful qualities of light, purple and pink hues, low light creating warm tones and strong contrast, so I tend to shoot most around these times of day. Yes, it’s tough to get up very early, drag yourself out of a warm bed or sleeping bag, walk or hike in the dark, or shoot later in the day as temperatures get colder and winds pick up- and sometimes you are successful in finding wonderful light, whereas other occasions weather conditions or certain topography prevent great light, but this is all part of creating superb outdoor images, and the hues captured are usually like no other time of day. We had a two week spell of rain while on assignment in Glacier National Park, yet I rose most mornings and headed out hoping for a break in the weather. One day I left my lodge around 4:30am and captured extraordinary light (and a slight double rainbow) over Saint Mary Lake. The light only lasted for a few minutes as the Sun peaked through storm clouds. Using a wide-angle medium format lens, I shot the scene at 1/4 second @ f/32, ISO 100. [2] LIGHTING CONTINUED.... Sunrise and Sunset Sunsets and sunrises provide some of the best light for scenes of the natural world. Long shadows created but early or late times of day usually equate to quality light, warmer and more appealing, frequently intensifies colors, and providing pleasing contrast in landscape imagery. Colors appear that typically do not any other time of the day; tones that emotionally connect with people. They can be subtle hues in soft light or strong deep shades in direct specular light, most often in yellow, orange, pink, or purple. Slower exposures also occur in these low light conditions, great for movement in water, clouds, and grasses, but also a concern with To capture this high sierra scene I had to leave the sanctuary of my ultra-warm sleeping bag, but camera shake or subject movement the storm light made it all worth it. Shot using an 80-200mm f/2.8 lens, f/22 @ 1/15 sec. ISO 100. (so tripods become essential). Sunrises are tough because light changes fast, and unless you are in position to get your shot, the light gets worse as the sun gets higher in the sky. When the first light strikes a landscape, at that moment the light is beautiful and warm, but as it increases in intensity, getting harsher as time passes. Exposures also change dramatically every minute during these times – sunrises as well as sunsets – so close attention to your meter readings is crucial. Skies tend to be clear at sunrise due to low night temperatures, but in most cases there is no way to tell sunrise from sunset in photographs (unless you are familiar with the area and know the direction Shooting atop Pothole Dome in Yosemite, the last light of day turned a deep red on Fairview dome, and with my 24mm f/2.8 lens set to f/22, I exposed the scene at 1/4 second using ISO 50. an image was captured). As temperatures rise, fog burns off, cloud formations change, and light hits new areas of a landscape. Sometimes this benefits your image, other times it was the photo that got away. Sunsets provide similar quality light- warm, rich in hues, and more appealing than the high mid-day Sun; not necessarily less contrasty, but definitely less harsh. The beauty of sunset is that you can watch the light improve the closer it gets to last rays of the day, giving you the chance to get into position for your shot. Exposures drop as the fall-off of light intensifies colors in a landscape, so be prepared again to use your tripod with slower shutter speeds. [3] Leaving a flight later that day, I was unable to photograph at sunset, but luckily a light storm was rolling through with large cumulus clouds. So I waited until the trees along the banks of the Snake River were cast in shade while the Tetons caught sunlight between clouds. I used a two-stop graduated neutral density filter to assist the exposure and a wide angle lens for the landscape scene. Mid-day light Another method of controlling light is attempting to predict what it might do, where the Sun may go as far as direction and location, and how that Usually mid-day is the worst type of light you can photograph outdoor might change your shot. I use these methods when I scout or plan for a scenes in. The overhead light is colorless, harsh, and uninviting. Finding a moment, such as arriving at a lake in the afternoon and determining where scene that is strong, where shadows do not create issues with contrast the Sun (and Moon) may be at sunset or sunrise. and loss of detail, and where clouds, blue sky or other elements help to improve the scene is key during this time of day. This is to distract from A common blunder that occurs when photographers position themselves the less-than-pleasing quality of light. What do I do during harsh mid-day between the Sun and their subject, with the Sun at their back, providing light hours? I may scout for shots to capture later in the day, I may take a the most light on their scene. The light now cast on the surroundings is nap (since getting up before sunrise and shooting after sunset can make harsh and boring; this is known as front lighting. Front lighting is often for a long day, especially during summer daylight hours), or I may spend it flat, giving your subjects little shape or dimension, but somewhat easier to hiking or driving to my next location; all good ways to pass the time during expose due to diminished contrast. However, I would only choose the hours that are not the best to photograph in. type of light if my scene was truly stunning, and the light was spectacular and colorful. Direction of light There are various forms of lighting- front, back, and side light- all Creating depth and dimension available to you, only requiring a spin of your body to choose the Creating shape and dimension in a photo is often done with highlights and direction, and type of light, to place your subject in. shadows, often achieved through side lighting. Side lighting is when your subject is half lit by a light source and half in shade. Another way to think Contrast and lighting ratios in a scene are typically determined by the about it is when the light source is 90° off axis from your camera.
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