Les Dames d’Escoffier International
WINTer 2 OO9 3 President’s Message
5 Thank You Hawaii Chapter WINTER•2 OO8 5 2009 Grande Dame Awards Kokua is a native Hawaiian word that re- 6-7 Hawaiian Luau flects a way of relating to others through kindness, assistance and support. Dames who attended the October conference in 8-9 Kualoa Ranch Tour O’ahu experienced Kokua firsthand from the Hawaii chapter. 10 Dining Under the Hawaiian Stars As I compiled this issue, I found the spirit of kokua alive and well within LDEI. Like 11-14 Optional Tours/Seminar Reviews clockwork, CiCi Williamson and Karen Levin continue to produce outstanding monthly features. CiCi, the guardian 15 Green Tables Recognition Breakfast of the Quarterly, graciously shared her expertise whenever it was needed. Jane 16-19 Chapter Photos Mengenhauser’s proof reading work has been invaluable. Adriana Torres Chong 20-21 Partner’s Lunch coordinated the photography effort for the conference and helped organize photos 22 General Sessions for this issue. Thanks to LDEI’s enthusiastic writers for making the Quarterly an informative 23 MFK Fisher Awards Dinner publication and to the photographers who captured the uniqueness of each event on film. Photographers for this issue include Chrissy Lambert, Joan Namkoong, Lori Wong, Pamela Boyar, Renie Steves, Adriana 24-26 Chapter News Torres Chong, CiCi Williamson, Karen Levin, Sarah Graham, Michael Mathes and Susan Slack. 27-29 Member Milestones Thanks to past editors, especially my predecessor Sarah Graham and to June 30 Submission Guidelines Hayes for the important advances they made in enhancing the overall appearance and quality of the Quarterly. And to designer On the Cover: Amy Maupin, who does a splendid job Fr o n t Ro w : (Left to Right) Joan Namkoong, Dorothy Colby, Kay Tokunaga, Elizabeth creating each beautiful issue. Iwata, Abigail Langlas, Oleo Paa’ Ogawa, Fern Tomisato The success and value of the Quarterly Se c o n d Ro w : (Left to Right) Adriana Torres Chong, Kellie Learmont, Ivy Nagayama, is based on three strengths: contributors, Hayley Matson Mathes, Shawn “Possie” Badham, Lori Wong, Melanie Kosaka, Janice Yap content, and commitment. Les Dames Th i r d Ro w : (Left to Right) Holly Hadsell El Hajji, Michelle Nakaya, Sabine Glissmann, are succeeding on all counts! It’s all Carol Nardello, Beverly Gannon, Jean Hull, Satomi Goo about kokua! Photo of Hawaii Chapter by Photographer Chrissy Lambert. Editor, Susan Fuller Slack 2009 LDEI Board of Directors
President Third V P/PR Treasurer Director-at-Large Immediate Past President Suzanne J Brown Wendy Taylor Mary Moore Sandy Hu Katherine Newell Smith Brown Marketing Communications, LLC Planit Network Event Planning Ltd. The Cook’s Warehouse Sandy Hu Food Marketing LLC KNS Promotion, Inc. 5415 Northland Drive NE #203 1410 Jefferson Avenue 1095 Zonolite Road, NE, #104 380 Roosevelt Way 5525 Devon Road Atlanta, GA 30342 West Vancouver, BC V7T 2B4 Atlanta, GA 30306 San Francisco, CA 94114 Bethesda, MD 20814 770-377-3488 (W) Canada 404-492-9018 (W) 415-626-1765 (W) 301/907-7590 (W) [email protected] 604/926-9071 (W/H) 404-921-0524 (FAX) [email protected] 301-907-7594 (FAX) 604/926-1255 (FAX) [email protected] [email protected] First V P/President Elect Teresa Farney [email protected] Director-at-Large The Gazette Director-at-Large Zola Nichols 7220 Delmonico Drive Secretary Alice Gautsch Foreman Desert Wine, Spirits and Gifts Executive Director Colorado Springs, CO 80919 Marie Kelley Gautsch & Associates, Inc. 611 S. Palm Canyon Drive, Suite 1 Greg Jewell 719/636-0271 (W) Kelley Productions International 2450 Canterbury Lane East, 2A Palm Springs, CA 92264 AEC Management Resources 719/636-0202 (W/FAX) 2047 Caminito Capa Seattle, WA 98112-2500 760-327-7701 (W) P.O. Box 4961 [email protected] La Jolla, CA 92037 206/325-1780 (W/H/FAX) 760-327-0337 (H/Fax) Louisville, KY 40204 858/456-6609 (W) [email protected] 760 327-7702 (W/Fax) 502-456-1851 (W) Second V P/Quarterly 858/459-5876 (FAX) [email protected] 502/456-1821 (FAX) Susan Slack [email protected] [email protected] 116 Hurlingham Drive Columbia, SC 29223 803-736-7103 (W/H) [email protected] Building LDEI Brand Awareness
C ommunication s , Co o p e r a t i o n & Collaboration
Dear Dames, As I write my first message, the new board is in the midst of developing an operational system that will enable our organization to build the LDEI Brand. Throughout the Hawaii conference, conversations seem to focus on how to define who we are and what we do. Unlike most orga- nizations, our structure is from the bottom - up; rather than top - down. Pic- ture an inverted triangle, with the chapters at the top, DAL’s/ chapter presidents in the middle and board at the bottom tip. Bottom-up is unique and offers LDEI an opportunity to differentiate and better define its brand. Results from Sur- veyMonkey and strategic planning sessions, Katherine Newell Smith passes the gavel to incoming LDEI President, Suzanne J Brown. indicate that members seemed to want more and better communications, increased coop- philanthropy? Several examples come to mind: The Kansas City Chapter’s eration and opportunities for collaboration. The Roots for Refugees is a community outreach program involving Catholic three C’s, as we’re calling it. Charities and the Kansas City Center for Urban Agriculture. In Dallas, a member of the chapter is part of the community’s monthly culinary “round C ommunication s table,” where other representatives from culinary associations meet to dis- As we grow, so does the need for better communication systems. Currently, cuss cross-promotion opportunities. our new website (www.ldei.org ) provides our main source of gathering and Perhaps one of our greatest treasures is to collaborate with our interna- posting information. Our LDEI e-newsletter provides timely chapter and tional partners. Several recent events come to mind: Wente’s contribution event news while the Quarterly is more features - oriented. of wines combined with tastings for fund-raising events in Atlanta; Peter’s Chocolate, Melissa’s and All-Clad offered special discounts to Dames, and C o o p e r a t i o n Whole Foods’ donation of a percentage of sales to LDEI programs in par- Without a healthy esprit de corps, our ticipating chapter communities. organization cannot prosper. As Past President Katherine Newell Smith em- C o n f e r e n c e : Th e f o u r t h “C.” phasized during her tenure last year, The fourth “C” is just for you. The outward benefits of attending annual “the whole is greater than the sum of conference are all the programs and activities listed in the program. You can its parts.” I like to draw an analogy to read about them on our website. But if you ask any Dame who has attended a car wheel. a conference about her personal “take away,” chances are her response will Picture the spokes of the wheel as be the Dames themselves. Nothing compares to sharing and learning from the 26 Chapters; they are all inter- the most accomplished culinary talent in North America. twined and connect to the hub, which During the Hawaii conference, I heard Kathy Gottsacker, co-president, is the LDEI Board. If any of the spokes St. Louis describe the trip at Kualoa Ranch as “holistic,”…that since the break, the wheel’s integrity is compro- discovery of Hawaii, the isolation of the islands promoted community mised. The same goes for LDEI. Con- dependence on each other…neighbors helping neighbors just to survive. tinuing that analogy of the wheels is apropos for chapter operations. Their That original community spirit provided the social fabric of Hawaii that strength and integrity is dependent upon participation from the entire mem- continues today. bership to grow and prosper. Each annual conference offers fresh, new opportunities for learning and sharing. Won’t you please mark your calendar for October 1 – 4, 2009 to C ollaboration attend our annual conference in Philadelphia? I promise the experience will DAL calls provide the platform for chapter presidents to share issues, events, be exhilarating, educational, and fun. fund-raisers and programming ideas. The next step calls for greater collabo- ration, or moving networking up a notch. One sure thing discovered during Warm regards, our annual conferences is that Dames enjoy each other’s company. So why not collaborate on a regional basis? With the focus on building support for the LDEI brand in our com- munities, what are some opportunities for collaboration with local or- ganizations? How can we expand objectives of education, advocacy and Suzanne J Brown
WINTER Quarterly 2OO9 3 Ha w a i `i Se a l s o f Qu a l i t y
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4 Les Dames d’Escoffier International Thank you Hawaii Chapter for Hosting the 2008 Conference by Dame Katherine Newell Smith (Washington D.C.) 2009 GRANDE DAME AWARDS March 15 is the deadline for nominations of the 2009 Grande Dame award. The award will be presented at the LDEI conference in Philadelphia in early October. In announcing the deadline, Renie Steves and Dorene McTigue, 2009 Grande Dame Award Co-Chairs, commented, “This is your chapter’s opportunity to nominate a shining star for this L-R: Joan Namkoong, Kellie award. It is a late-in-career award to a woman Learmont, Holly Hadsell El Hajji who has a record of professional achievement and community betterment. We need all chapters Conference co-chairs with Katherine Newell Smith to participate.” Completed nominations forms are to be sent to Greg Jewell. A nominee may be a person who has been previously nominated. Once the Grande Dame Award Committee reviews the nominations, a ballot with supporting materials will be sent to the chapter presidents in the spring to be reviewed and voted on by all LDEI chapters. The 2009 Grande Dame will join an illustrious group of women who have been recipients of the International Grand Dame Award. They are Marion Cunningham, Anne Willan, Madeleine Kamman, Edna Lewis, Jerry Anne DiVecchio, Abigail Kirsch, Rosemary Kowalski, Marcella Hazan and Alice Waters.
hat happens when Holly Hadsell el Hajji, Kellie Learmont and Friday evening’s “Dining under the Hawaiian Stars” was held in the WJoan Namkoong call in favors, gently twist arms, inspire, cajole and elegant Halekulani courtyard. Beverly Gannon, Fern Tomisato and charm a host of other Dames and Friends-of-Dames to help the LDEI board Linda Yamada recruited Hawaii’s top chefs to create an opulent feast produce an extraordinary three-day conference? Near perfection. accompanied by selections from our generous sponsors, DFV wines and That is just what occurred when the trio co-chaired LDEI’s 23rd an- 360 Vodka. nual conference in Honolulu in October. Sabine Glissman, the Haleku- Saturday’s keynote breakfast with culinary historian Rachel Lau- lani Hotel’s director of food and beverage, smoothed our negotiations and dan was followed by a remarkable Vertical Fish Tasting led by Marie arrangements from the onset. Kay Tokunaga and Dorothy Colby served Kelley (San Diego) and Hawaii’s own Chef Mavrothalasitis. Joan as the ideal helpmates and travel guides in our hospitality suite. Dorothy Namkoong, Ivy Nagayama, Barbara Campbell, Wendy Taylor also helped orchestrate the Saturday afternoon MFK Fisher Salon with (British Columbia) Suzanne J Brown (Atlanta) and Katherine Toria Emas (Chicago) and Jerry Di Vecchio (San Francisco). Newell Smith (Washington D.C.) coordinated the breakout ses- Hayley Matson-Mathes organized the lovely opening reception on the sions, which received outstanding reviews. Virginia Willis (Atlanta), Bishop Museum’s great lawn where we each were presented with a lei and Mary Moore (Atlanta) and Melanie Kosaka gave insights to new signature martini. Hayley’s gracious husband Mike served as our unofficial media and Pam Williams (British Columbia) and Peter’s Choco- photographer, lei presenter and chauffeur. And Jan Yap and Cheryl To late’s Amy Welk showed us how to gain a more nuanced appreciation beautifully coordinated our “Hawaii of Yesterday” luau. We enjoyed an of chocolate. Friend-of-Dames Robert Sinclair of Vistage, Vancou- authentic menu that included poke (spiced sashimi) and poi (pounded ver, BC advised us how to think strategically in our businesses as well taro root paste) accompanied by hula and the Hawaiian band, Manoa. as personally and Dave Furuya of Vino, Honolulu, opened a new Jan also planned the exquisite Green Tables (GT) breakfast, which world of wines to accompany Asian flavors. Our Partners Lunch, or- highlighted local ingredients. What a way to begin the day: enjoying the chestrated by Susan Weinstein (South Florida) offered an opportu- morning’s repast overlooking the Pacific! Then GT co-chair Lynn Fred- nity to thank our munificent sponsors and appreciate their delicious ericks (New York), along with chapter chairs Virginia Willis foods and beautiful products. (Atlanta), Jane Bell (Kansas City), Paula Hamilton (San The MFK Fisher Gala was so much fun. And we have Francisco) and Hayley Matson-Mathes, inspired every- CiCi Williamson (Washington D.C.) to thank for one to return home and improve their already excep- chairing the MFK Fisher Awards Committee, All- tional GT programs. Afterwards Holly arranged an Clad for sponsoring the award, Wente for the gala extraordinary day at Kualoa Ranch, including an reception and dinner and, again, Holly and Kellie ancient fishpond boat tour, capped by a sump- for arranging the evening. tuous Hawaii plate-lunch buffet and shave ice, Mahalo for your kokua, everyone. You all replete with adzuki beans and cream. made our visit to paradise magical. Aloha.
WINTER Quarterly 2OO9 5 Luau Means Feast & Feast We Did!
by Dame Lila Gault (New York)
n a balmy Thursday night, perfect for al Ofresco dining, 120 Dames and their guests were treated to a traditional luau at the Bishop Museum, Hawaii’s magnificent temple of native art and culture. The evening began with leis, mai tais, mu- sic and hula from the Punahou School. Un- der the brilliant direction of Dame Jan Yap, a traditional luau menu was served family-style by many Hawaii Dames. Menu highlights in- cluded slow-cooked Imu Kalua Pig, Chicken Long Rice and Short Ribs, as well as squid, lomi salmon, limpets and poke. Sweet pota- toes, pineapple and sea asparagus added more local flavors. A small serving of poi challenged curious diners to try a two-finger taste. Dessert was a cascade of sweetness, fea- turing haupia (coconut arrowroot pudding), kulolo (coconut taro pudding) and guava chif- fon petit fours.
6 Les Dames d’Escoffier International Dames and guests enjoy a vibrant Hawaiian luau experi- ence, featuring heritage foods and native storytelling through traditional dance and music.
WINTER Quarterly 2OO9 7 Kualoa Ranch in the Ka’a’awa Valley was the destination as three busloads of Dames and guests traversed the Pali (“cliff”) Highway 61 to the windward side of Oahu. Emerging from the VOG (“volcano smog” blown by the tradewinds from active Maunakea on the Big Island), sun beamed over the valley as the groups divided into three tours: the Moil’i Ranch Fishpond (viewed from a pontoon boat), the garden tour, and KualoaKualoa Ranch the uphill arboretum. Kualoa’ Hawai i Tour Filming site for Jurassic Park and ABC-TV’s series Lost, the land overflowed with picturesque vistas and interesting tropical plants and by Dame CiCi Williamson (Washington D.C.) trees. Kui, our guide for the garden tour, showed us how taro plants
Above: Tour guide Kui discusses the cultivation of Hawaii’s taro plant.
After a pontoon boat tour on Moil’i Fish Pond, Dames enjoyed a “mixed plate” of multi-cultural dishes. Linda Lau Anusasananan (left) displays her tasty “plate lunch.”
Far Left: Holly Arnold Kinney cools off in the warm tropical weather with a cup of shave ice with adzuki beans.
8 Les Dames d’Escoffier International grow. Their roots are cooked and pounded into poi, and their leaves are cooked like spinach to make such Hawaiian dishes as Laulaus and Luau Chicken. Purple poi comes from the pink-rooted taro plant; there’s also a white variety.
Lunch was a multi-station buffet of multi-cultural dishes that can make up the Hawaiian plate lunch – typically two scoops of rice, macaroni salad, and a meat. Prepared by Holly Hadsell-El Hajji’s Pacific Motion Picture Catering Company, the buffet included a mélange of aromatic foods, and dining was al fresco under a tent overlooking the 125-acre Moil’i Fishpond, built 800 years ago by early Polynesian settlers.
Chinese MenuFilipino Dim Sum, Noodles, Adobo and Chinese Almond Cookies American Macaroni Salad
In ancient times, Kualoa was one of the most sacred Japanese places on Oahu. During a tour of Kualoa Ranch, Sushi Bar and Portuguese Dames strolled through fields of exotic fruit trees and tropical flowers. Japanese Mochi Sweet Bread Guide Kui explained the importance of taro in the Hawaiian diet and the protocol of eating poi (pounded Korean Hawaiian taro root), a staple food. During lunch, Dames line Fresh Fruit, Shave Ice, up for fresh sushi as they admire the spectacular Kal Bi and Chicken; landscape. Kim Chee Hawaiian Sun Juices and Hawaii Deep Blue Water
WINTER Quarterly 2OO9 9 Dining Under the Hawaiian
Starsby Dame Karen Couné (Minneapolis/St. Paul )
fter a fun day in the Hawaiian countryside at the Kualoa Farms Tropical Ranch, we ended our day with yetA another beautiful event under the Hawaiian sky – the evening sky. The lovely Halekulani Garden Courtyard was the setting for our local Dame chefs to showcase their culinary talents and beautifully presented cuisine. There was ample room for tasting stations and the vibe was relaxed but festive – just what I hoped for on a lightly breezy tropical eve. DFV Wines graciously hosted the wine station and we sampled two whites and two reds: Loredona Riesling, Gnarly Chardonnay, Irony Pinot Noir and 337 Cabernet Sauvignon. I also admit to enjoying the 360 Vodka Plan- tation Iced Tea, made with pineapple juice, Maui natural cane sugar, tropical flavors and lots of aloha! The courtyard was kept running smoothly by friendly and attentive culinary students from Kapiolani Commu- nity College. Throughout the evening, we were delight- fully entertained by Henry Makua and his Hawaiian mu- sic ensemble. Thank you Fern Tomisato! Take a moment to read through the list of participat- ing chefs. We all know what it takes to pull off an event like this, especially delivering top-notch cuisine outside our normal working facilities, and they deserve recogni- tion. After reading through their delicious menu items, you’ll be glad that you did!
Above: Dame Olelo Pa’a Faith Dame Bev Gannon Ogawa with her kitchen team. Hali’imaile General Store: Asian Duck Tostada, Sashimi Pizza Dame Michelle Nakaya Ginniberries: Mini Opah (Moonfish) Lau Lau; Curry Crusted Lamb with Mango Chutney Dame Carol Nardello, CEC Dame Holly Hasdell Menu Riggs Distribution/Sub-Zero-Wolf: Thai- Pacific Motion Picture Catering: North Shore style Pumpkin Soup, Laab Salad with Cattle Co. Beef with Asian Flavors, Duck Lettuce Cups, Lotus Blossom sauce and Udon with Seared Foie Gras Chili Dipping Sauce Dame Ivy Nagayama Dame Sabine Glissmann d.k. Steak House: Classically Aged Rib Eye Halekulani Hotel: Chestnut Lumpia with Steak with a Seafood Béarnaise Sauce; Preserved Orange and Chocolate Sorbet, d.k. Steak House Crab Cakes with Avocado Passion Fruit Tart with Whipped Topping Butter and Sweet Thai Chili Vinaigrette and Macadamia Nut Dame Olelo Pa’a Faith Ogawa Dame Abigail Langlas Dining By Faith: Kona Kampachi Carpaccio Cake Works: Lilikoi Meringue Tart, Hoi’o Relish and Ginger Ponzu Sauce; Chocolate “Carmac” Mousse Keahole Shrimp with Hawaiian Papaya & Orange Relish and Big Island Goat Dame Cathy Smoot Barrett Cheese, Baby Romaine, Papaya Seed Lime Kailua Candy Company: Light and Dark Dressing, Big Island Macadamia Nuts Turtles in a Luahala Basket
10 10 LesLes Dames Dames d’Escoffier d’Escoffier International International Chinatown by Dame Janet Burgess (San Diego Chapter}
Dames feast on a sumptuous ver 30 Dames were treated to a wonderful tour of Chinatown in lunch buffet at Indigo, a local OHonolulu. The first stop on our sensory journey was at the award- hotspot located in a historic part of downtown Honolulu. winning restaurant, Indigo. Chef/owner Glenn Chu explained his philosophy about life, family, and food. The tour began and everyone experienced the sights and scents of Chinatown, from the Chinese herbalists, lei makers, fishmongers, open markets, to the noodle factory. There are many nooks and crannies in Chinatown, along with private courtyards and raucous sailor bars from years past. After our incredible journey, we were treated to a fabulous lunch at Indigo in a former opium den, now part of the restaurant. We didn’t experience any old ghosts, just beautiful food and friendship.
Maui Dames Tour Upcountry
awaii’s second largest island has Hbreathtaking panoramic views. Chef Glen Chu displays some ingredients used in his Several Dames made a post-conference cooking demonstration. trip to “The Magic Isle” to tour the Menu Left: Rosemary Kowalski visits Surfing Goat Dairy on Maui. Ali‘i Kula Lavender Farm where they found over 200 varieties of lavender, Below Left: Master Gardener Ali’i Chang leads the Dames on a plus blooming hydrangeas and exquisite golf cart tour at the Ali‘i Kula Lavender Farm. pink proteas. Afterwards, they enjoyed Below Right: (L to R) At the lavender farm, Mary Kimbrough, refreshments that included lavender- Rachel Hirschfeld and Mary Ellen Evans admire a spectacular scented hot tea and lavender scones. angel’s trumpet plant. The next stop was a garden tour and splendid organic lunch at O’o Farm, where 100 varieties of organic fruits and vegetables are grown for award- winning Maui restaurants, Pacific’ O and I’O. O’o means, “to mature or ripen.” Renie Steves reports it was a “unique farm to table experience.” The last stop of the day was Surfing Goat Dairy, which is run by friendly German expatriates who provide a surfboard for their playful goats to stand on inside their pen. The Dames sampled fresh and aged “goat cheese flights” from 25 different kinds.
WINTER Quarterly 2OO9 11 SHANGRI LA by Dame Marianne Langan (South Florida Chapter)
Shangri La boasts he name makes one imagine a paradise on earth. a magnificent Doris Duke spent some 60 years developing view of the Pacific T Ocean and Diamond this estate into a mythical place of perfect living, Head. Marble accessible to only the invited in her lifetime. Although steps and water she had many homes, this is the one that speaks of terraces highlight the swimming pool her personal taste and interest; she was completely and Playhouse area. involved in the design and decoration down to the Dames enjoyed lunch smallest detail. As you walk through the colorful and in the café courtyard of the Henry R. Luce ornately decorated rooms it is quite evident that this Pavilion Complex at home completely speaks of her total appreciation the Academy of Arts. for Islamic art and architecture…
Many Dames toured Hawaii’s Shangri La, an archi- tecturally significant home that boasts one of the largest collections of Islamic art in the United States. To read the rest of Marianne’s story and to see more photos, visit the LDEI website at www.ldei.org. -S.S.
Hawaii Island Big Island Agricultural Tour
everal Dames made a pre-conference tour to Hawaii Island to see the rich agriculture diversity first-hand and Photos (L-R): LDEI members examined fleshy yellow nutmeg fruits, which split Sto meet the farmers. The tour began with a scenic bus ride up the Hilo-Hamakua Heritage Coastline, a region to reveal hard brown nutmeg seeds of former sugar plantations. The group visited the Wailea Agricultural Group Farm, which grows Hawaiian hearts enveloped in scarlet membranes known of palm, tropical flowers and fruits, foliage and spices. The next stop was the Hawaiian Vanilla Company, the only as mace (aril). Lynn Fredericks displayed a mace- commercial vanilla grower in the U.S. At the Vanilla Kitchen, Dames ‘experienced’ a special vanilla-infused luncheon. covered nutmeg. The final stop was Hamakua Mushrooms, where exotic mushrooms are grown in a state-of-the-art production facility. Michael Crowell, Wailea Agriculture Local Dames hosted the extraordinary day, sharing food history, folklore and friendship along the way. Group, with a fresh-picked nutmeg.
12 Les Dames d’Escoffier International John Kaneko, Director of Projects, Pac Mar, Inc., led the early morning fish tour. Inside Honolulu the market, he discussed a fresh Opah catch.
Fish Auction Tour Bottom photo: Fish samples were removed with a tool similar by Dame Nancy Knoepfel (Washington D.C. Chapter) to a larding needle.
wo mornings in a row, different groups of Dames boarded a bus at T5:30 am to visit The Honolulu Fish Auction where sustainable fishing practices are upheld. The tour started where the boats were tied up and had already unloaded the catches. The Hawaiian boats practice Longline fishing, which they believe protects species. Long lines have many hooks on them to reel in larger catches. In international waters less sustainable purse seining boats can net 400 tons of tuna in one scoop. The auction helps the fisherman to be more efficient in selling their hauls, collecting cash to pay their crews. The best boats to get in 12 trips per year, timing them to get in just before the December and New Year Holidays for the big payout. The fisherman restock their supplies within 24 to 48 hours and get back to what they do best. The distributors and restaurateurs then get to view the individual fish and bid on them. The HFA is said to be one of the cleanest facilities in the fish busi- ness, all who enter are required to pass through a chlorine solution on their feet. The floor of the HFA is continually squigeed clean. Essen- tial to getting top dollar at the auction is the process of grading. Grad- ing consists of cutting a section of the tail area and pulling a portion of the middle with a tool similar to a larding needle so bidders can determine quality of color beyond comparing clear eyes. We observed two tunas from the same catch widely vary in quality fetching $1 and $6.90 a pound respectively. The variance could correspond with the first to the last catch before returning to home base. There was a wide variety of fish present, but the dominant force at the fast paced auctioning was the tuna.
WINTER Quarterly 2OO9 13 Ivy Nagayama, Kellie Learmont, Master Sommelier Chuck Furuya and Cindy Evetts. Amy Weik and Dame Pam Williams conduct chocolate tastings and discuss the world’s production of chocolate. PAIRING WINES WITH ASIAN FLAVORS
Master Sommelier Chuck Furuya (Vino - Ho- nolulu) and Ivy Nagayama (Sansei Seafood Restaurant and Sushi Bar - Hawaii) teamed up to conduct a session on pairing wines with Pacific Rim cuisine. Participants sampled six wines with spicy, salty, sweet and vinegary Chocolate Lover’s Asian flavors and discovered some surprising matches. Fragrant, deftly-balanced German Global Tasting Tour Riesling was a top pick. Gewurztraminers, dry rosés, white wines from Viognier grapes by Dame Carole Bloom (San Diego) and Champagne were recommended as good choices. Cool climate Pinot Noir from Oregon Amy Weik of Peter’s Chocolate presented a tour pairs well with teriyaki and other dishes with and discussion of the global cacao regions and con- sweet-salty flavors. ducted a tasting of several chocolates from around the world. Cacao grows best within 15 degrees north and south of the Equator. Ghana and the Top: Veteran Management Consultant Robert Sinclair Ivory Coast produce 60 percent of the world’s ca- cao while Vietnam and Australia produce the least New Bottom: Dames are given the necessary building blocks for and are in the category of emerging crops. We tast- creating life-balance. Media ed chocolate from five different regions; West Af- rica, South America, Central America, the Pacific by Dame Zola Nichols Rim, and the Caribbean. Each was distinct with (Palm Springs) Strategic Solutions different flavor notes due to the type of bean, the for a Balanced Life growing conditions, including the soil and climate, At the Hawaii Conference, Melanie Kosaka, and how it was fermented, dried, and processed. Mary Moore and Virginia Willis conducted by Dame Wendy Taylor Dame Pam Williams spoke about the cacao one of the most informative and helpful sem- (British Columbia Chapter) industry in Hawaii, including its history and inars, called New Media II. For those who present status. Cacao is grown on the islands of are beginning to see the benefits of online A morning spent considering your business Oahu, Hawaii, Kauai, and Maui. Hawaii is the participation in their businesses and setting is time well spent. This valuable session fo- northern-most point of the world’s cacao pro- up websites, it was very enlightening. The cused on strategic planning to direct your duction with only 50 acres in production in the ability to promote one’s business and reach choices, to give hope and direction, to shape islands. We also tasted five samples of chocolate such a large market through E-commerce, and have control over your future and to from different islands. One of these samples was at a rather small investment, was exciting to prosper. Through a series of exercises, vet- from one particular tree on Oahu. hear. The need for a good search engine, links eran management consultant Robert Sin- Dame Carole Bloom spoke briefly about her to your website, concise clear information on clair (Vistage), asked the group to identify recent visit to Far North Queensland, Australia, your home page were all stressed, as well as internal strengths and weaknesses, external where she visited a cacao farm. This is a new the importance of a user-friendly shopping opportunities and threats to form the basis growing region for cacao in Australia that shows cart. I am sure that many of the attendees, for analysis and action. His PowerPoint pre- great potential. Currently, beans from this region like myself, were inspired to take a new look sentation can be found under Resources and are being processed in Melbourne and sold under at their own websites and see how they could Documents in the Member Menu on our the label of Cocoa Farm. It was an informative be improved. Thanks, Dames, for sharing website – www.ldei.org. and tasty session. your expertise. 14 Les Dames d’Escoffier International CHAPTER RECOGNITION & HAWAIIAN BREAKFAST
The scenic Hau Terrace at the Halekulani Hotel was an idyllic setting for the Green Tables (GT) Chapter Recognition Breakfast. Dames feasted on a cornucopia of island foods including fresh tropical fruits, Tofu Shooters, Quiche with Maui Onions and Macadamia Pancakes with Coconut Syrup. During breakfast, Nancy Brussat (Chicago) paid a special tribute to the late Abby Mandel. The extraordinary achievements of several chapters were highlighted. All U.S. and Canadian chapters were recognized that were actively involved in the 2008 GT initiatives. Each chapter’s representative received a copy of “The Hawai’i Farmers Market Cookbook,” which was produced by the Hawaii chapter and edited by Hayley Matson-Mathes and Joan Namkoong as part of their GT effort in 2006. San Diego filmmaker Marie Kelley launched a new GT video, which is available for chapters to customize by adding their own photos and personal message.
Green Tables chapter representatives gather during the recognition breakfast on the Hau garden terrace.
WINTER Quarterly 2OO9 15 TOP Row OF PHOTOS: Second Row OF PHOTOS: ATLANTA CHAPTER British Columbia Chapter Back row: (L-R) Andrea Case, Debi Loftis, (L-R) Pam Williams, Tina Hills, Wendy Taylor, Virginia Willis, Suzanne J Brown Cindy Evetts, Betti Port
Front row: (L-R) Mary Moore, Rebecca Lang, Charleston Chapter Becky Minchew and Barb Pires (L-R) Sarah Graham, Susan Slack
AUSTIN CHAPTER Chicago Chapter (L-R) Karen Farnsworth (in black) and Mary Back Row: (L-R) Linda Calafiore, Michaele Margaret Pack Musel, Jill Van Cleave, Brenda McDowell Boston Chapter Front Row (L-R) Sharon Olson, Nancy Brussat, (L-R) Barbara Spencer and Laura Sapienza- Karen Levin, Toria Emas Grabski Colorado Chapter (L-R) Michaele Anne Musel, Holly Arnold Kinney, Cici Williamson and Teresa Farney
OUTGOING BOARD PHOTO Back row: (L-R) Myra Clement; Phyllis Frucht; Alice Gautsch Foreman; Toria Emas; Marie Kelley; Wendy Taylor Front row: (L-R) Teresa Farney; Suzanne J Brown; Katherine Newell Smith; Sarah Graham;
16 Les Dames d’Escoffier International INCOMING BOARD MEMBERS Back row: (L-R) Teresa Farney, Zola Nichols, Mary Moore, Katherine Newell Smith, Wendy Taylor, Marie Kelley Front row: (L-R) Alice Gautsch Foreman, Sandy Hu, President Suzanne J Brown, Susan Slack
First Row OF PHOTOS: Hawaii Chapter Kansas City Chapter Bottom Photo:
Back row: (L-R) Holly Hadsell El (L-R) Kathy Pelz, Dianne Hogerty, DALLAS CHAPTER Minneapolis / St. Paul Chapter Hajji, Michelle Nakaya, Sabine Mary Pfeifer, Nancy Byal, and Jane Back row: (L-R) Mynetta Cockerell, Glissmann, Carol Nardello, Beverly Zieha. (L-R) Barb Strand, Mary Ellen
Cristiana Acerbi Ginatta, Mary Gannon, Jean Hull, Satomi Goo Evans, Cindy Jurgensen, Lois Kimbrough, Lynn Mattie, Aimee Los Angeles / Orange County Tlusty, Karen Couné, Arlene Coco- Padden Middle row: (L-R) Adriana Torres Chapter Buscombe, Mary Bartz
Chong, Kellie Learmont, Ivy (L-R) Nancy Eisman, Susan Front row: (L-R) Dolores Snyder, Nagayama, Hayley Matson Mathes, Ballou, Catherine Evans, Diana Renie Steves, Sharon Van Meter, Shawn “Possie” Badham, Lori von Welanetz Wentworth, Virginia Gina Puente Brancato Wong, Melanie Kosaka, Janice Yap Evans Front row: (L-R) Joan Namkoong, Dorothy Colby, Kay Tokunaga, Elizabeth Iwata, Abigail Langlas, Oleo Paa’ Ogawa, Fern Tomisato
WINTER Quarterly 2OO9 17 PAST PRESIDENTS Back row: (L-R) Dorene Centioli McTigue (Seattle; 1997-1998), Pam Williams (British Columbia; 1998-1999), Dolores Snyder (Dallas; 1989-1991), Carol Brock (LDEI Founder), Toria Emas (Chicago; 2006-2007) Front row: (L-R) Nancy Brussat Barocci (Chicago; 1995-1996), Renie Steves (Dallas; 2001-2002), Pat Mozersky (San Antonio; 2005-2006), CiCi Williamson (Washington, D.C.; 2002-2003)
TOP Row OF PHOTOS: New York Chapter Back row: (L-R) Mary Ellen Griffin, Joan Carris, Marsha Palanci, Deborah Mintcheff, Sue Huffman Robison, Jan Hazard, Myra Clement Front row: (L-R) Beth Allen, Lucy Wing, Carol Brock, Lynn Fredericks, Rachel Hirschfeld
Palm Springs Chapter (L-R) Zola Nichols, Mary Clare Mulhall and Ellen Sneider
MIDDLE Row OF PHOTOS: San Antonio Chapter BOTTOM Row OF PHOTOS: Seattle Chapter South Florida Chapter (L-R) Di-Anna Arias, Erica (L-R) Braiden Rex-John- (L-R) Marianne Langen, Philadelphia Chapter Back row: San Francisco Chapter Back row: Hanchey, Mary Martini, Linda Triesch son, Diana Trent Dillard, Dorene Ana Plana and Susan Weinstein (L-R) Dottie Koteski, Elieen Back row: (L-R) Amy Hoopes, Linda Front row: (L-R) Pat Mozersky, Rose- Centioli-McTigue, Jane Morimoto, Talanian, Nancy Miller, Pat Ward Anusasananan, Jerry Di Vecchio, Rose Ann Finkel, Joy Gulmon-Huri and Aliza Green mary Kowalski, Marty Gonzalez Martine Saunier Front row: (L-R) Marcella Rosene, Front row: (L-R) Dolores Cakebread, Phoenix Chapter San Diego Chapter Karen Binder, JoAnne Naganawa, Marie Simmons, Paula Hamilton, Alice Gautsch Foreman (L-R) Gwen Ashley Walters, Eileen (L-R) Janet Burgess, Carole Bloom Sandy Hu Spitalny and Gaye Ingram and Marie Kelly
18 Les Dames d’Escoffier International executive Director Greg Jewell
WASHINGTON DC CHAPTER Front Row, Reclining: Katherine Newell Smith Middle row: (L-R) Marsha Echols, Celeste McCall, Cindy Kacher, Linda Roth. Back row: (L-R) Phyllis Frucht, Teresa Farney, Nancy Knoepfel, CiCi Williamson, Linda Joyce Forristal
St Louis Chapter Lori Willis and Kathy Gottsacker
Carol Brock, founder of LDEI
WINTER Quarterly 2OO9 19 ThankPARTNE you!R’S LUNCH
20 Les Dames d’Escoffier International Partners & Dames Working Together We applaud our partners and want to express appreciation for their generosity in hosting a successful Partner’s Lunch at the elegant Halekulani Hotel. One of the most popular conference activities, the event was organized through the assistance of Partnership Director Susan Weinstein. It was an opportunity for donors to showcase their outstanding foods, beverages and wares. During the grazing luncheon, conference attendees were able to meet with the partners and become familiar with their products. Without the partner’s enthusiasm and support, our accomplishments would be less significant. Special thanks to Wente Wines, Fairytale Brownies, Melissa’s Produce, Krups, All-Clad, Whole Foods, Peter’s Chocolate, DFV Wines, Sugar Foods, Hawaii Department of Agriculture, 360 Vodka, The Beef Checkoff, Kona Gold Liqueur and Kaiulani Spice. Mahalo Nui Loa – thank you very much!
WINTER Quarterly 2OO9 21 Left: LDEI members participate in a vertical fish tasting.
BELOW: Publisher Gary Luke with Carol Brock, Marcella Rosene and Pat Mozersky.
Author Rachel Laudan’s informative cookbook provides historical perspective on traditional and contemporary foods of Hawaii. A Vertical A COOKBOOK FOR Fish Tasting ALL SEASONS Exploring Hawaii’s Hawaii “Fish Speak” by Dame Susan Slack Culinary Heritage by Dame Dolores Snyder (Dallas) (Charleston)
Saturday’s Gener- “FISH SPEAK”, the Publisher Gary al Session began language of fish-taste Luke of Sasquatch with breakfast characteristics took Books attended and a keynote place at 8:45 a.m. the Hawaii con- presentation by with Chef George ference and spoke guest speaker Mavrothalassitis and briefly at the Rachel Laudan. Marie Kelley teach- General Session. Author of the ing us how to taste His comments award-winning fish that was barely about the future book, The Food of Paradise: Exploring cooked and lightly seasoned with olive oil and sea of our cookbook, Cooking with Les Dames Hawaii’s Culinary Heritage, the noted cu- salt. Three types of tuna had been lightly seared d’ Escoffier, were warm and hopeful. “The linary historian discussed the origins and on both sides in a non-stick pan. The Spear Fish, book got this big because of the quality of its evolution of native Hawaiian food. She Striped Marlin and Swordfish had been cooked manuscript.” He remarked, “An anthology discussed how ‘Local Food,’ especially the at 225 F. for 5 minutes. We were looking at color needs to be greater than the sum of its parts. plate lunch - a fusion of East-West-Pacific and experiencing texture and flavor upon tast- This one is.” dishes - has become a testimony to the har- ing. Luke believes that big book buyers con- mony in Hawaii’s “mixed-plate” society. The Big Eye tuna was deep red in color with a sider it an ‘evergreen book,’ – “one that will firm, tender, and elegant texture. The flavor was be around for a long time.” The Book of the buttery and oily on the palate. Yellowfin was light Month Club’s cookbook operation chose our red in color with a meaty texture and an acidic book and ordered over 2,000 copies. Luke flavor that was a joy to taste. Burgundy describes shared another tidbit, “Marcella Rosene (Se- the color of the Skip Jack with a dense, meaty attle) has done a ‘roadmap’ of the book - her texture and a tart flavor. personal favorites after two years of working The quality of the six fish was top notch as was with the material. That is such a good idea, the commentary of Chef Mavro, who was on the I’m requiring it of all my cookbook authors first Vertical Fish Tasting team in 1994. Over the from now on.” (The “roadmap” is available years, tastings have taken place in Long Beach, from [email protected].) California, Washington, D.C., Florida, New Thanks to all the contributor’s hard work, England and Seattle. Marie Kelley has produced especially Marcella and Pat Mozersky (San two videos for the professional and consumer. Antonio), I think you will agree we produced “FISH SPEAK” has won “The Communicator a book that our publisher is in love with - an Award” and a “Telly Award.” enviable position to be in. For up-to-the- Tasting at such an early hour proved to be both minute reports on how our book is faring and delicious as well as educational and I now have a in-depth coverage on cookbook events, watch GeneralSESSIONS broader vocabulary to use in describing fish. for the spring issue of the Quarterly.
22 Les Dames d’Escoffier International AWARDS DINNER M.F.K. Fisherby Dame Teresa Farney (Colorado Chapter)
t the October 25th gala banquet organic farmers doing business with tive way the pros and cons for the Left to Right: A honoring M.F.K. Fisher’s mega-retailer Whole Foods Market. producers doing business with a big President Suzanne J Brown 100th birthday, Cici Williamson She wasted no time jumping on a grocery store.Second prize of $500 L-R: Evi Ellias, Katherine Newell Smith, (Washington D.C.), presented tip that Whole Foods Market was went to The NewY ork Times writer Louisa Kasdon Louisa Kasdon, (Boston), the going to hire a “forager” to find and Kim Severson for “Grandchild of At the MFK Dinner, Dames dine on Roasted second M.F.K. Fisher Award for help small local farmers, bakers, and Italy Cracks Spaghetti Code.” Filet of Beef with Sauce Bordelaise. Excellence in Culinary Writing. other food providers cope with the Third prize of $250 went to L-R: Louisa Kasdon and CiCi Williamson She received $1,000 and the trip demands of working with the huge Natalie MacLean (Ontario Chapter) Conference Co-chairs Joan Namkoong, to the LDEI Annual Conference organic grocery chain. for her “ed, White and Drunk All Kellie Learmont, Holly Hadsell El Hajji in Hawaii to accept the award. “She’d (the forager) been on the Over book. Louisa was honored with the award job all of seven minutes when I called Honorable Mention went to for her article “Whole Foods Goes her,” she said in an interview with Laura Taxel (Cleveland Chapter) Small,” written for Fortune Small CiCi.The story follows the behind for “The Farmer in the Dell.” Business magazine. She told us of the scenes process of getting local her experience researching the story, products on the shelves of Whole Read all entries at www.ldei.org. which traces the challenges of small Foods. She explains in a descrip-
WINTER Quarterly 2OO9 23 Compiled by Karen Levin (Chicago)
ABOVE: Beer and cheese samples tasted by the group. LEFT: Barbara Glunz-Donovan and Jill Van Cleave (Photos taken by Karen Levin)
TOP: (L-R) Susan Slack, Richard Jerue, Anne Willan, Susan Wigley and Deidre Schipani. BOTTOM: Culinary students at Charleston’s Art Institute surround TV personality and cookbook author Chicago Nathalie Dupree during a chapter fundraiser for the new LDEI cookbook. From the left, students are Sierra Carter, Mark Jones, Dominique Ricks and Shaquetta Maloney who assisted at the event. On Monday, October 13, 2008, thirty-two members and guests gath- ered at Glunz Bavarian Haus for an evening of beer and cheese tasting. (Photos by Paige Canaday Crone) Guided by Anthony Norkus of Louis Glunz Beers and Sara Hill, culi- nary manager for cheese education with the Wisconsin Milk Marketing Charleston Board, the pairing of select artisan international beers with hand-crafted Paige Canaday Crone cheeses was delicious and enlightening. The October Fest mood of the evening was heightened when Anthony and Sara explained the pairing. On Friday, October 17th, Charleston Dames held a festive cookbook Guests and experts compared tasting notes for the different beer styles signing fundraiser at The Art Institute of Charleston to celebrate the and flavors and their affinity to certain types of cheeses. The tasting was new cookbook, Cooking with Les Dames d’Escoffier. pronounced a huge success. 24 Les Dames d’Escoffier International (L-R) LDNY’s 2008 Inductees: Ursula Massoud, Patricia Savoie, Kathleen Sanderson, Regina Ragone, Vanessa Trost, Sydny Miner, Patricia Cobe. New York Deborah Mintcheff Les Dames d’Escoffier New York welcomed their 2008 inductees on October 4th at Restaurant Daniel. The event began with an elegant reception, followed by the induction ceremony, presided over by Mem- bership Co-chair Suzi O’Rourke. An inspired menu followed the ceremony with South Carolina Shrimp with Spiced Carrot Coulis, Lime Gelee, Ginger-Scallion Salad & Whipped Cilantro Cream, Pennsylvania Squab, Leg & Foie Gras Pastilla with Young Radishes, Broiled Breast with Vadouvan & Avo- cado Chutney, ending with Cilantro Poached Pineapple with Coconut Cream, Lime Rum Gelee & Pina Colado Sorbet. The menu was paired with extraordinary wines courtesy of Castello Banfi Toscana.
San Antonio Linda Triesch, Corresponding Secretary TOP: Dame Cathy Tarasovic demonstrated “Big Shrimp with Armenian Pesto” using Texas Shrimp donated from the Texas Department of Agriculture. We operated our most BOTTOM: November event at Shiraz, Top Row: Rebecca Rather, Rashine Mazaheri, Susan Auler, successful, sell-out booth Mynetta Cockerell, Bunny Becker. Bottom Row: Pat Mozersky, Sharon Van Meter. again, at the 17th An- nual Herb Festival at Aggie Other highlights of the event were Cathy Tarasovic, who demonstrated Park on October 18th. The a recipe to promote the LDEI Cookbook. Dame Jenny Mattingsley Herb Festival was founded stayed up all night baking over 200 loaves of Artisan breads, which sold by Mary Dunford and is out within 90 minutes! Funds raised support the chapter’s Green Tables generously supported by the initiatives. Note: The event theme was the Calendula, the herb of the Texas Dept of Agriculture year for 2008. More information on this herbaceous flower can be found under the guidance of Mari- at www.herbcompanion.com. lyn Magaro. Molly McAd- The first all-Dame event, held November 9th, for the prestigious ams and Rollie Blackwell New World Wine & Food Festival (NWWFF) showcased the talents were co-chairs for the booth of Rashine Mazaheri (San Antonio) at her “Shiraz” Restaurant along this year. Dames furnished with Rebecca Rather (San Antonio), Sharon Van Meter (Dallas) and and sold baked special- Mynetta Cockerell (Dallas). NWWFF was co-founded by Pat Mozersky ties ranging from simple to (San Antonio). Award-winning wines were provided by Susan Auler gourmet, in one of many (Dallas) of Fall Creek Vineyard and Bunny Becker (San Antonio) o f booths selling herbs, plants, Becker Vineyards, who poured limited edition labels. Funds from this Dame Jenny and Dame Rollie assembling Mufulettas and related items. and other week-long NWWFF events support many local charities. using her freshly baked Herb Focaccia.
WINTER Quarterly 2OO9 25 San Francisco Karola Saekel
During the large, highly successful Slow Food weekend in San Fran- ton tripled her contribution: She pressed husband, Chef Ed Hamilton, cisco on August 30 and 31, several Dames volunteered their time in the and their young adult daughter into service as well. Paula also planned farmer’s market section, putting in 4-1/2 hour shifts at the Civic Cen- a board retreat October 14 at her Oakland home to brainstorm ideas ter Victory Garden and farm stands. Chapter president Paula Hamil- for the coming year.
Seattle Cynthia Nims Seattle Leads Launch of LDEI Cookbook The Seattle Chapter was the first to celebrate the launch of Cooking Treats included Walnut Fennel Tarts from Lisa Dupar, Fran Big- with Les Dames d’Escoffier. While all members have reason to be proud elow’s Original Cheesecake and Linda Augustine’s Fresh Viet- of the project, this chapter boasts extra doses of hometown pride thanks namese Summer Rolls. Libations included Kathy Casey’s cocktail to publisher Sasquatch Books and the cookbook’s editor Marcella creation Rosemary Pear Fizz, Rose Ann Finkel’s Pike Brewery ales Rosene. Kathy Casey hosted the October 16 soiree in delicious style at and Northwest wines. Two of the chapter’s recent scholarship recip- her amazing event/development space, where over 100 attendees min- ients—Lisa Kowalczik and Mary Crowe—were on hand as help- gled with cookbook contributors and other Dames during a convivial, ers, and the evening’s proceeds added over $5,000 to the chapter’s cocktail-party setting. scholarship funds.
Photos by Linda Augustine.
Leslie Mackie brought her wonderful Gina Batali greets guests with Julie Kramis Hearne serve Macrina bread with spreads her family’s famous salumi her mostarda di frutta
Look for articles on chapter cookbook programs in the Spring issue of the Qu a r t e r l y . – Editor
26 Les Dames d’Escoffier International Co-owners Callie White and Carrie Morey of Callie’s Charleston Biscuit Company made their second appearance on the NBC Today Show in November to demonstrate the process behind their company’s award- winning cheese biscuits. Carrie was a recent finalist in Martha Stewart’s Doers into Dreamers Awards. For more information on this Charleston specialty, visit [email protected] Deidre Schipani was a special guest on Martha Stewart’s Satellite Radio Show called MORNING LIVING, with hosts Kim Fernandez and Betsy Karefrick. The culinary conversation was all about Charleston: the restaurant scene, trends, farm to fork initiatives, chefs’ with their own plantations; Food and Wine Festival 2009; Firefly Sweet Tea Vodka, the love of biscuits (especially Callie’s Charleston Biscuits), and other foods that speak to the Lowcountry soul. Libba Osborne recently became co-owner of Leapfrog, a boutique public relations firm in Charleston focusing on upscale “lifestyle” clients. Client press placements include Vogue, Town & Country Weddings, Wine Spectator, Cottage Living and on The Food Network and NBC’s TODAY Show.” Charleston’s historic Wentworth Mansion Hotel was featured the Compiled by November, 2008 issue of Arthur Frommer’s Budget Travel Magazine. Built in 1886, the landmark is owned by Linne Lesesne and husband Rick CiCi Williamson (Washington D.C.) Windman. Visit www.wentworthmansion.com to learn more about this elegant southern establishment. ATLANTA Lisa Ekus-Saffer pre- CHICAGO sented “Keys to Success- Nicole Bergere was the subject of a very interesting article in the current ful Media Appearances” issue of Gastronomica. Handsomely illustrated and written by Maureen with Virginia Willis at Abood, the interview charts the course of Nicole’s varied career from 1984 the WCR Conference when Nicole’s Bake Shop was born on the North Side of Chicago, and in New Orleans in Sep- today as owner of Nicole’s Divine Crackers. tember. She continues Carrie Nahabedian, Sarah Stegner, and Gale Gand participated in her work as corporate the Chicago Gourmet Festival, September 27-28 to rave reviews. Barbara media trainer for the Glunz (House of Glunz) poured wines at the Festival. Carrie and Sarah Levy Restaurant Group were featured in an event with The Chicago Network titled “The Birth of a and, with Willis, has Restaurant.” Carrie was a speaker at the Armenian International Women’s launched “Training Association Conference in Buenos Aires, Argentina, the first week in No- Wheels,” a national vember. Her topic was the connection of family to food and the importance off-site media training of the family bond. Virginia Willis program for culinary Patty Erd and husband Tom were featured the October Hemisphere professionals. www. magazine in an article on Milwaukee featuring The Spice House. LisEkus.com. Virginia is author of Bon Appétit Y’all: Recipes and Stories Nancy Siler, Director of Consumer Affairs and Public Relations, Wilton from Three Generations of Southern Cooking. Industries, Inc., and co-producer/host of the PBS-TV Show, “Bake Decorate Celebrate!,” reports that the 3-year old show, will be airing in 46 countries BRITISH starting in April 2009. Nancy hosted a group of food writers for Wilton’s COLUMBIA 80 Anniversary celebration in September, including CiCi Williamson Angie Quaale, owner of (Washington, DC). The two Dames discovered they are both Texans, and Well Seasoned - A Gour- Nancy gave CiCi a Texas-shaped cake pan. met Food Store, was Meme Hopmayer’s “Annual Cookie Exchange” was published in the honored as 2008 Small November 2 Chicago Tribune. This year’s recipes, which are sent to Meme Business of the Year by in advance of the luncheon will be duplicated and bound into a spiral book the Langley Chamber to document the event. of Commerce for many lma Lach reports that the University of Michigan has just taken two reasons including her pieces of her art, 32 x 42 size, to hang in the new Cardiovascular Center championing and pro- and two were displayed in the Main Library building. She is now working moting local farmers, on a book called Nature’s Gift, Ann Arbor, one of the most beautiful cities chefs, winemakers, wine she has ever seen. educators, and food Ina Pinkney was presented the Good Eating Award by the Chicago manufacturers. Tribune. She was featured in “Date these Hot Chefs” article in TimeOut Angie Quaale www.wellseasoned.ca Chicago and for her award from the Illinois Environment Council for starting the Green Chicago Restaurant Co-op. CHARLESTON DALLAS Nathalie Dupree will teach a one-week class at the new Culinary In- Liz Baron’s Blue Mesa Grill has been chosen to receive the 2008 Santé stitute of Charleston February 16-20. The facility is in their downtown Restaurant Award for Restaurant Bar in the Mountain/Southwest Region Palmer Campus. To see Nathalie’s and the institute’s other class offerings, for Spirits Hospitality (for her Tequila Bar program offering over 100 te- go to www.culinaryinstituteofcharleston.com. quila brands). The awards honor restaurants and professionals that exhibit outstanding achievement in spirits service and hospitality.
WINTER Quarterly 2OO9 27 Dunia Borga, chef/owner of La Duni, a Latin kitchen and baking stu- Northern California chapter of the Society of Professional Journalists at an dio, was nominated for a James Beard award in pastry. Blending European awards dinner November 13 at Yank Sing restaurant in San Francisco. Karo- traditions with Latin American soul, La Duni mixes the flavors, aromas, la retired from the San Francisco Chronicle in 2007 but continues to cover colors, textures, forms and sounds of both cultures to create the ultimate the food scene. In more than 50 years at the San Francisco Chronicle, Karola “Mestizo” experience. covered everything from fashion to floods, cults to custards, earthquakes to ethnic cooking. She was the undisputed historian of the food section. LOS ANGELES Amelia Saltsman announces that The Santa Monica Farm- ers’ Market Cookbook (Blen- heim Press, 2007) has re- ceived four honors: the 2008 Writers’ Digest Grand Prize for Self-Published Books; the Santa Monica Public Library Green Prize for Sus- tainable Literature (Local Impact); PubWest Book De- sign Awards, Bronze Medal; and was a National Indie Cookbook Finalist. Amelia Saltsman Karen Binder Leslie Mackie
PHILADELPHIA SEATTLE Betty Kaplan was the centerpiece of an October 2 article in the Phila- Karen Binder has taken over the reins as Madison Park Times food col- delphia Inquirer about cooking classes, titled “Class Conscious.” Kaplan umnist from Linda Burner Augustine. Binder, who has owned and op- specializes in teaching basic cooking techniques and knife skills. erated the Madison Park Café for 29 years, boasts a wealth of anecdotes, Aliza Green did a national tour promoting her newest book, Starting recipes and wine knowledge that will be featured in the monthly publica- with Ingredients: Baking (Running Press), a big international baking book tion. with 350 recipes based on weight, making them reliable and easy to use Christine Keff, chef/owner of Flying Fish restaurant in downtown (cup measurements are also included). The book includes many gluten- Seattle, was inducted into the Pacific Northwest Wild Salmon Hall of Fame free and dairy-free recipes. in September. Keff has served only wild-caught salmon at her restaurant since 1996, and was chosen from among five finalists honored at the annual SAN DIEGO dinner sponsored by the Pacific Northwest Salmon Center. Louise Mathews was honored at the Association of Correctional Food Leslie Mackie, Macrina Bakery & Café owner, opened in September a Service Affiliates International Conference in August, 2008. Louise re- new location just south of downtown Seattle in the SODO neighborhood. ceived a Certificate of Appreciation and an award for her work as a lec- The new space, which will serve coffee, pastries and lunch, represents -Ma turer/speaker and as a past International President. The Board of Trustees crina’s most concerted effort yet to increase its sustainable practices, with thanked her for over 22 years of dedication to the organization. Silver-level LEED certification anticipated by year’s end. Judi Strada’s beloved husband Randy passed away on October 29 after a valiant 18-month battle against pancreatic cancer. Dames from many chapters treasured Randy. Janet Burgess reminisces that one of her best memories is of Randy doing the barbecuing at the chapter’s annual beach party–in his cowboy boots!” Candy Wallace was recognized by Sullivan University’s National Center for Hospitality Studies as its 33rd Distinguished Guest Chef. She founded the American Personal & Private Chef Association (APPCA), based in San Diego, in 1996 as the first significant national effort to recognize the impact of personal chefs and to provide career and management training to aspiring personal chefs with their own businesses. www.personalchef.com.
SAN FRANCISCO Jeannette Ferrary joined the Board of Directors of the Asian Culinary Forum. For its inaugural weekend-long symposium, a major showcasing of Asian cuisines and foodways, she organized the panel, The Politics and Practicalities of Rice. Among the symposium participants were Madhur (L-R) Tom Hickey, director of Sullivan University’s National Center for Hospitality Studies; Candy Jaffrey, Raz Patel, MartinY an and Niloufer King. Wallace, executive director of the American Personal & Private Chef Association; and Kimberley Karola Saekel Craib, received a lifetime achievement award from the Jones, chair of Sullivan University’s professional-catering degree program; during ceremonies honoring Wallace as Sullivan University’s 33rd Distinguished Guest Chef.
28 Les Dames d’Escoffier International WASHINGTON, D.C. Carla Hall is competing on Bravo’s “Top Chef.” Episodes are shown Nongkran Daks competed with the Food Network’s Bobby Flay in a “Pad on Wednesdays at 10 p.m. (Eastern time). Carla is the chef and owner of Thai Throwdown” filmed at Nongkran’s Thai Basil Restaurant in Chantil- Alchemy Caterers. Her food balances the heart and soul of the South and ly, Virginia. A native of Thailand, Nongkran is known for her world class the refinement of her classic French training. She enjoys creating memorable Thai cuisine. As of press time, the contest results have not been revealed. comfort dishes with fresh, seasonal, and local ingredients. Look for this talented Dame on the Food Network this winter.
Da m e s Ga t h e r To g e t h e r The Houston Chapter hosted a recep- tion for seven Dames attending the Association of Food Journalists Conference in October. Co- presidents Merrianne Timko and Marion Tindall arranged the reception at Robert Del Grande’s Café Annie. More than 20 Houston Dames attended along with out-of-town Dames Kitty Crider (Austin), Teresa Farney (Colorado), Carol Mighton Haddix (Chicago), Karen Haram (San Antonio), Susan Nicholson and Susan Puckett (Atlanta), and CiCi Williamson (Washington, are founding members of LDEI chapters. Cathy DC). Marion Nestle (New York) was a speaker is currently the president of IACP; Nathalie and at the conference but flew home earlier in the Barbara have served as past presidents. day. (Photo by CiCi Williamson) Jane Tierney Milza (New York) and Susan The 11th Annual World of Flavors conference Fuller Slack (Charleston) were judges for the for professionals was held November 6-8 at CIA 2009 National Chicken Cooking Contest, to Greystone in Napa Valley. Featuring Mediter- pick three East Coast finalists, one each from ranean cuisine, over 50 chefs were brought in to the New England, the Middle Atlantic and educate attendees about foods from Persia, India, South Atlantic regions. This was one of four such China, Morocco, Italy, Spain, Greece, Turkey, and regional events organized by Nancy Tringali Lebanon. Some of the Dames who attended are Piho (Washington D.C.), to select nine top Teresa Farney (Colorado), Antonia Allegra and contestants to compete in May at the National Janet Fletcher (San Francisco), Karen Cassady Cookoff in San Antonio. and Renie Steves (Dallas), Lisa Smith (Boston), Lila Gault (New York) enjoyed the afternoon Ann-Michelle Albertson (Philadelphia), and in Prosser, Washington with Seattle Dames Tricia Top to Bottom: Najmieh Batmanglij (Washington, D.C.). (Photo Gelles, Holly Smith, Kay Simon and Braiden (L-R) Build a Better Burger: Nathalie Dupree, Barbara Fenzel, by Renie Steves) Rex-Johnson. The Dames gathered for a book- Cathy Cochran-Lewis Nathalie Dupree ( ) Barbara signing for Braiden’s latest book, Pacific Northwest Charleston , (L-R) Teresa Farney, Antonia Allegra, Karen Cassady, Renie Fenzel (Phoenix) and Cathy Cochran-Lewis Wining & Dining (Wiley, 2007). The signing took Steves, Lisa Smith. (Colorado) were judges at Sutter Home Winery’s place in September at Chinook Wines, where “Build a Better Burger Contest” in Napa Valley. All Kay Simon is winemaker/co-owner. Front Row: (L-R) Dames Tricia Gelles, Holly Smith and Lila Gault Back Row: (L-R) Kay Simon and Braiden Rex-Johnson
Rita Gutekanst CHICAGO Da m e s Ca t e r t o t h e Pr e s i d e n t Several Dames have been involved in feeding Rita Gutekanst’s company Limelight provided Barack Obama. “Entertainment Tonight” notes sustenance for the thousands of VIP’s that turned that President Obama’s treat of choice comes out in Chicago’s Grant Park for the celebration. from NASFT member Fran Bigelow (Seattle), Of the event, Rita says, “I have to add that one owner of Fran’s Chocolates. The 26-year-old of my favorite things that happened that night company’s Smoked Sea Salt Caramel in Milk was when a waiter would enter the kitchen to Chocolate is the President’s favorite. pick up an appetizer and he would say, `Can I get When Obama visited his grandmother in another Spinach Risotto Cake?’ and in the kitchen Hawaii, Holly Hadsell-El Hajji’s catering we would yell in unison, ` Yes We Can.’ Oh the company provided the meals. On election night, hugging... the crying... the fist bumping...”
WINTER Quarterly 2OO9 29 Summer 2009 Quarterly Deadline Spring 2009 Quarterly……February 20, 2009 PHOTOGRAPHY/IMAGES Photos must be a minimum resolution of 300 dpi and be of good quality to be considered. Include photographer credits if needed. ALL PHOTOGRAPHS MUST COME WITH CAPTIONS TO BE PUBLISHED. Send submissions to: Susan Slack (Charleston Chapter) at [email protected]. MEMBER MILESTONES Dame’s Name (xx Chapter) 25-50 words as you would like to see it appear in print. Interesting or important business-related activities or honors. Submissions with photos will receive prominent positions. Press releases are not accepted. E-mail to CiCi Williamson at membermile- [email protected] by February 20, 2009. Entries received after this date will not appear. The editorial board will place your entry in Headliners if warranted. CHAPTER NEWS Chapter & Title of Event (By your name, officer or title if any) 50-100 words per event as you would like to see it in print. We regret we do not have space for menus. List the photos at the end of the description. Include IDs and credits. Submissions not conforming to this format may not be printed due to deadlines and volunteer’s lack of time. E-mail to Karen Levin, Kale23@ comcast. net by February 20, 2009. E-NEWSLetter A bi-monthly publication to keep you informed about events in other chapters and to encourage networking. The “Traveling Dames” section lists professional conferences or events where you may find other Dames for networking. Do not send press releases. Include an email contact, date, time, cost for chapter events. Lack of space prevents member milestones, product news, listing of cooking classes or tours. You will receive a reminder “call for e-news” email. Respond to Emily Schwab at [email protected].
MEET YOUR NEW BOARD IN THE SPRING QUARTERLY... Tell us about your chapter’s fundraising and promotional events for the new LDEI cookbook, Cooking with Les Dames d’Escoffier. We will share your news and photographs in the Spring Quarterly. Send to Susan Slack at [email protected]
30 Les Dames d’Escoffier International #&-(*"/Chocolate # 308/*&( *'54
Photo correction for the Seattle Chapter News, page 19, 2008 Fall Quarterly:
Left to Right: Cynthia Nims, Nicole Aloni, and Lisa Dupar at SaltWorks, Inc., in Woodinville, Wash., during the chapter's 03% &3 "/: 5*. & May meeting. 803-% 8*% & 4 ) * 11*/( '"*3: 5"-&_#308/*&4$0 .
“Soft, silky entry leads to a round, delicate, dryish light-to-medium body with whipped cream and mineral fl avors. Finishes in a smooth, sweet, and lightly warming powdered sugar, mild citrus zest, and talc fade with nice length. A very smooth, clean, and gently style vodka for martinis or neat. Impres- sive. The sweet frosting and mineral aroma and fl avor profi le is exceptionally smooth with a nice, spicy, tingling fade and very little warmth. Overall, this is a clean, smooth, and balanced vodka.” — Beverage Testing Institute
We took home the gold — for great vodka. No wonder. 360’s quadruple-distilled for a smooth fi nish, and optimal eco-effi ciency. Revolutionary bottle, made of 85% recycled glass. Labels made of 100% PCW paper, and printed with water-based inks. Green and Gold never looked so good!
© 2008 Earth Friendly Distilling Co., Weston, MO 40% alc./vol. (80 Proof) Distilled From American Grain Vodka360.com Drink Responsibly. Drive Responsibly. Exist Responsibly.
48-2307 360 Vodka_Gold Quarter AD.indd 1 9/11/08 2:03:22 PM
360 Vodka Gold 1/4 page Ad | Job # 48-2307
Date: 09.10.08 Media/Pub: LDEI Quarterly/Directory Publications Quarter Page Ad: Trim 3.7917" x 5.0498" v1.M Atlanta Austin PRESORTED Boston Les Dames d’Escoffier International FIRST CLASS British Columbia, Canada P.O. Box 4961 US POSTAGE Charleston Louisville, KY 40204 PAID Chicago NEW ALBANY, IN Cleveland/Northeast Ohio PERMIT #62 Colorado Dallas Hawaii Houston Kansas City/Heart of America Los Angeles/Orange County Monterey Bay Area Minneapolis/St. Paul New York Ontario, Canada Palm Springs Philadelphia Phoenix San Antonio San Diego San Francisco Seattle South Florida St. Louis Washington, D.C.
2009 LDEI Annual Conference October 1-3 Sofitel Hotel Philadelphia
Plan now to attend the Annual Conference to join members of Les Dames D’Escoffier whoTake the Lead in the hospitality, culinary and related stages. The Conference hopes to provide an opportunity and a setting for les dames to Enhance, Enrich, Engage and Enjoy themselves. Attendees will be comfortable in the ambient accommodations of the Sofitel and challenged with the dynamic educational sessions planned for the Conference. We also want attendees to be invigorated with Philadelphia: its people, places, history, culture and food. This can be experienced simply with a walk through Rittenhouse Square, a journey to the Reading Terminal Market, a stroll up Broad Street and the Avenue of the Arts or a visit to our museums and historical sites. As leaders, les dames, ‘Challenge the Process; Inspire a Shared Vision; En- able Other to Act; Model the Way; and ‘Encourage the Heart.’ The 21st century requires leaders to look forward, but to remember the past; this is something inherent in our members and our unique organization. It is said that managers get other people to do, but leaders get other people to want to do. We trust that the 2009 Conference meets these goals. – Dottie Koteski and Anita Pignataro, 2009 Annual Conference Co-Chairs For more about Philadelphia: www.sofitel.com, www.philadelphiaquiz.com, www.readingterminalmarket.org, www.hellophiladelphia.com