The Finest 50 East of the Mississippi The National Herald June 29, 2013 www.thenationalherald.com 2 50 Finest Restaurants THE NATIONAL HERALD, JUNE 29, 2013 The National Herald The Finest 50 East of the Mississippi A weekly publication of the NATIONAL HERALD, INC. A renaissance in Greek food has been booming in issue. We decided to choose from the eastern part of the popular series “Iron Chef.” A story by Taxim chef (ΕΘΝΙΚΟΣ ΚΗΡΥΞ), the United States – and indeed, the world – for a few the United States: the east coast, where many of our David Schneider is featured in this issue. reporting the news and years now, and not a moment too soon. For those of community live, and Chicago, which enjoys a long In addition to our list of 50, you’ll find profiles of addressing the issues of us raised on this uncomplicated, authentic cuisine history of a vibrant and strong Hellenic community. tavernas like Astoria, N.Y.’s Loukoumi and New York, paramount interest to the Greek based on the natural flavor of the simplest Keeping the list to 50 was a daunting task. There N.Y.’s Dafni; a tribute to Philadelphia’s Kanella Greek American community of the ingredients, it’s a long time coming. Who isn’t stirred are dozens of wonderful restaurants we could not Cypriot Kitchen, which celebrates its fifth anniversary United States of America. by a succulent piece of expertly grilled fish seasoned include, some due to the fact that they have been this year; and a profile of New Jersey’s Kyma Greek with fresh lemon, Greek extra virgin olive oil, and salt open less than a year -- like Kyma in Roslyn, on New Cuisine. We have an extended recipe section this year and pepper; a smoking whole lamb cooked over the York’s Long Island, which had its grand opening on featuring recipes from some of the top-rated chefs Publisher-Editor hot coals, a glass of wine, or an slice of honey- April 28 of this year, or Meli in New York, N.Y. – or working in Greek restaurants in America today. And a Antonis H. Diamataris flavored pastry? some due to space, like the spectacular Taxim in few other surprises as well. Assistant to Publisher, Advertising We have taken a new approach this year at The Chicago, a Byzantine oasis, whose chef/owner battled So dig in, and savor the delights of our favorite Veta H. Diamataris National Herald with our Best Greek Restaurants with fellow Hellene and Iron Chef Chef Cat Cora on eateries. Kali orexi! Papadopoulos Special Section Editor Sophia Stratakis Huling Production Manager Chrysoula Karametros 37-10 30th Street LIC, NY 11101-2614 Tel: (718)784-5255 Fax: (718)472-0510, e-mail: [email protected] Democritou 1 and Academias Sts, Athens, 10671, Greece Tel: 011.30.210.3614.598 Fax: 011.30.210.3643.776 e-mail: [email protected] Subscriptions by mail : EOS RESTAURANT KOUZINA GREEK FLAME 1 year $66.00, 6 months $33.00, 3 months $22.00, 1 month $11.00 Home delivery NY, NJ, CT: CONNECTICUT relaxed atmosphere on a quiet tablishment has won the Or - Canadian black mussels. 7600 The saganaki, as expected, is a 1 year $88.00, 6 months $48.00, street. There is no bar, but pa - lando Sentinel’s Foodie award Dr. Phillips Blvd Orlando, Fla. huge favorite. “Beautiful food, 3 months $33.00, 1 month $14.00 trons are welcome to bring their for Best Greek restaurant every 32819 (407) 370-4624 very good service, good prices, Home delivery New England States : EOS RESTAURANT own beer or wine with no cork - year since 2005, and was named www.greekflametaverna.com big menu,” praises one TNH 1 year $109.00, 6 months $57.00, Fresh Greek contemporary age fee. There is a lower-priced one of Orlando Magazine’s three Entrees: $12-$32 contributor. 628 Dodecanese 3 months $41.00, 1 month $18.00 cuisine at this elegant spot in - children’s menu and even a “Best Greek” restaurants for Blvd., Tarpon Springs, Fla. On line subscription : cludes an EOS Burger (with market with breads, cheese, 2012. Executive Chef Maria MYKONOS 34689 (727) 914-4306 Entrees: Subscribers to the print edition: beef-feta-tzatziki sauce-plus olives, olive oil and other spe - Chrissanthidis puts the empha - "Spitiki Kouzina" ("Home $9-$19 1 year $34.95, 6 months $23.95, homemade fries), Kotopoulo me cialty items. 32C Forest Street, sis on freshness and ensures Cooking") trumpets the front 3 months $14.95; Prassa (chicken with leeks) and New Canaan, Conn. (203) 594- there are plenty of traditional awning of this "hole in the wall" TAVERNA OPA Non subscribers : 1 year $45.95, 6 months $29.95, 3 months $18.95 whole fish. There is flaming 9800 kouzinact.com. Entrees: items with imported lamb on casual restaurant open since The tables see their share of cheese, souvlaki sticks and com - $6-$20 the menu – from leg of lamb to 1993, and most diners agree it tsifteteli-ing and few plates sur - fort food classics like Imam Bay - souvlaki. Known in Orlando for has some of the best Greek food vive– at this fast-growing restau - aldi (eggplant). Sip Santorini exceptional seafood, they grill on the sponge dock area. Fresh rant concept. With an emphasis Iced Tea or a White Sangria FLORIDA fresh, whole fish like Lavraki octopus caught daily in the Gulf on family recipes, Greek native made with Samos Muscat. and Tsipoura as well as Por - of Mexico, a large menu includ - Peter Tsialiamanis opened the Owner Nikki Glekas says this GREEK FLAME tuguese octopus. Chef special - ing sandwiches and gyro go summer will see the opening of The Chrissanthidis family es - ties include diver's scallops and alongside the plentiful entrees. Continued on page 4 the patio for live music and the introduction of homemade Greek ice cream. 490 Summer Street Stamford, Conn. 06901 (203) 569-6250 eosgreekcui - sine.com Entrees: $14-$46 KOUZINA After opening in June 2011, the New York Times enjoyed its “pleasant” terrace and “appeal - ing” appetizers. It gets high marks from Fairfield County food blog CTbites and Yelp users A P for their moussaka that features O S A O the rare combination of a trio N N R O of eggplant, zucchini, and pota - E K V Y A toes, fresh and tasty food and T M THE NATIONAL HERALD, JUNE 29, 2013 50 Finest Restaurants 3 The Look and Flavors of the Greek Isles By Joanne Starkey New York Times Roslyn, with three excellent Greek restaurants, probably has better Greek food than many towns in Greece. The first to appear, in 2008, was Limani, an elegant, expensive place that served fish priced by the pound. (It now has conventional menu pricing.) Next came MP Taverna, in 2011, a more rustic spot with lots of dark wood and very reasonable prices. Now a new restaurant, Kyma (pronounced KEE-ma), is staking out a spot between the other two in its pricing and its décor. Kyma, which opened in April, has something of the look of the Greek islands, with a whitewashed plank ceiling, white walls, white wooden tables and chairs, along with arches in the wall separating the bar from the dining room. Flanking the front door are two giant pots, each holding a lemon tree, with another in the foyer. The wall behind the hostess desk has rows of niches filled with Greek earthenware roof decorations, each with a light beneath it. It makes for a dramatic entrance. Once inside, diners will notice an impressive display of fish and seafood on ice. Take a hint from the restaurant’s name, Kyma, which means wave, and head for those fish. All those we sampled were wonderful. Whole fish will be served deboned unless patrons request otherwise. They are priced individually ($25 to $27), not by the pound, and include one of three side dishes. The grilled branzino, which filled the platter, was moist and succulent, as was the grilled black sea bass we had on another night. Besides the four whole fish, there are six other seafood entrees. We liked plaki, a pan-roasted sea bass fillet prepared Santorini style, in a wine and tomato sauce. From the meat side of the menu, the fork-tender baby lamb shank in a fresh tomato sauce on a bed of orzo was a winner. Be sure to try the Kyma chips: a tall stack of paper-thin slices of crisp zucchini and eggplant served with tzatziki sauce on the side. The portion was large enough to share. That was also true of the salads we tried: the classic Greek salad of tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers, onions and olives crowned with slabs of feta, and an especially large and crunchy salad of chopped romaine hearts with crumbled feta and the fresh taste of dill. PHOTOS: KATHY KMONIcEK FOR THE NEw YORK TIMES Kyma, which means wave, has an impressive display of fish and seafood on ice. The breads in the basket are lightly grilled and served warm, accompanied by hummus. Though they are made elsewhere, they are excellent: chewy pita and a light tan bread made with both whole wheat and white flours. My favorite seafood opener was very tender grilled octopus on a mound of shaved onion and capers in a red wine vinegar-olive oil dressing. At $19, it is an expensive appetizer, but I ordered it as a main course and was more than satisfied. Grilled calamari bathed in olive oil and served with a lemon wedge was also much better than the version typically encountered.