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Home , Acropolis Museum, Chora Church, Istanbul Postal Museum, Pammakaristos Church

2015 SUSTAINING FELLOWS TOUR 1 unusual journey to & with R. Crusoe & Son

We invite Sustaining Fellows to join us on an unusual journey to Turkey and Greece with Karen Dear Sustaining Fellows: Manchester, Chair and Curator of Ancient Art, Byzantium was known for its richness: luminous Department of Ancient and . , textiles, architectural , frescoes, and . This special journey is offered in connection with the Art In May 2015, join curator Karen Manchester as we Institute’s exhibition, Heaven and Earth: Art of Byzantium trace the evolution of which presents more than 60 superb from Greek Collections, the Byzantine aesthetic artworks from the early Christian and Byzantine eras in the in Turkey and Greece. Mary and Michael Jaharis Galleries of Greek, Roman, and Cynthia and I just Byzantine Art. Many of these treasures—including shimmering returned from , mosaics, marble sculptures, richly illustrated manuscripts, we have been to luxury glass, silver, personal adornments, liturgical textiles, and many times, and we have painted icons—have never been exhibited outside of Greece. heard great things about On our journey we complement this exhibition with must- . These are see sites in Istanbul (once, Byzantium), Thessaloniki, and phenomenal destinations, Athens as a way to further illuminate the Byzantines and the but they are difficult to remarkable legacy they left behind in Turkey and Greece. We navigate on one’s own. I also examine the Classical era of Greece with help from Karen. promise our group not Terry and Cynthia Perucca. We begin in Istanbul, Turkey. After a welcome reception only a spectacular, insightful journey back through history, but one that is also seamlessly executed on the labyrinthine streets of these ancient cities. The journey is brimming with excellent visits, great food, and lively company. We have also built into the schedule ample time to decompress, browse, and enjoy some leisure time. I look forward to your company next May.

Terry Perucca Tour Chairman Topkapi Palace, home to Ottoman sultans for generations. Istanbul.

1  Art Institute of Chicago  2015 Sustaining Fellows Tour to Turkey & Greece with R. Crusoe & Son  312.980.8007 KAREN MANCHESTER Chair and Curator of Ancient Art, Department of Ancient and Byzantine Art.

Karen received Bachelor’s, Master’s, and Doctoral degrees in Art History from UCLA. Her career began at the J. Paul Getty Museum. She joined the Art Institute in 2001, and in 2007, she curated The : Travel, Trade, and Transformation, part of Holy Savior, a late Byzantine in Chora . Istanbul. a citywide celebration that included the Nearby is a fine example of late Chicago Symphony and art. A since 1591, it still Orchestra and Yo-Yo contains well-preserved Byzantine mosaics, most from about Ma and his group, the 1320. We hear about the treasures before us—both the Silk Road Project. architecture itself and the rich mosaics collection. More recently, she Karen Manchester. Back in town, consider joining us for a stroll through the managed the reinstallation Grand Bazaar, one of the largest in the world. It has been an of the Mary and Michael Jaharis Galleries of Greek, important trading center since 1461. Roman, and Byzantine Art, which opened in 2012. In 537, Emperor Justinian had artisans from all over the world construct the greatest church in Christendom, Hagia at our hotel and a good night’s sleep, we enjoy an introduction Sophia. Today, it is a UNESCO World Heritage site and to the defining characteristics of Byzantine art. Then we’re one of the most significant monuments not only in Turkey, off to see Istanbul’s highlights with our own eyes. but on Earth, with its architectural and historical richness. Topkapi, built in 1478, served as the official palace of This is where we begin our day on Wednesday, 6 May. Ottoman sultans for almost three centuries. In the palace Continue to the Istanbul Archaeological Museum, where courtyard, we enter Hagia Eirene, a former Eastern Orthodox we view outstanding artifacts unearthed during local church and the site of ’s first church. excavations. Next, join us on a visit to the Blue Mosque, built in the early 1600s. This is a breathtaking architectural achievement, KAREN MANCHESTER as awe-inspiring inside as out. Sit down to a very special What are the three key themes that make this journey dinner in the home of renowned extraordinary? Turkish interior designer, art 1. Evolution of art. Examine artworks from the cradle historian, and Ottoman art of western civilization covering five thousand years— collector Serdar Gülgün. He has restored his historic 1850s home to its former beauty. It is a in extraordinarily fascinating settings. testament to his remarkable ability to recapture Ottoman 2. Evolution of religion. Learn firsthand about the history and aesthetics. development of the region’s major religions, from The following day, we visit , also called paganism to Christianity, as well as . Kariye Camii, just outside the city center. Justinian built the 3. Evolution of a symbol. Discover how the Acropolis first Chora Church to serve as the court chapel for transitioned from a center of pagan worship to a important religious ceremonies. In the 14th century, Christian sanctuary, to a seat of Islam, and finally exquisite mosaics and frescoes were added. We learn the to an internationally recognized symbol of Greek characteristic traits of the mosaics and frescoes, beautiful nationhood. examples of Byzantine artistry.

2  Art Institute of Chicago  2015 Sustaining Fellows Tour to Turkey & Greece with R. Crusoe & Son  312.980.8007 If you wish, come with us inside one of Byzantium’s Next, the White Tower. In 1826, Ottoman Sultan more unusual and intriguing structures, Yerebatan Saray, a Mahmud II massacred rebellious janissaries (elite troops of cistern built in 532 by Justinian. Or, if you prefer, indulge in forcibly Islamicized Christian boys) here. After the 1913 a hammam, a traditional Turkish bath, on your own. Greek reconquest, the so-called Bloody Tower was We wrap up our time in Istanbul with a relaxing private whitewashed to expunge its grisly past. Though the dinner cruise on the Bosphorus Strait. whitewash is long gone, the name has stuck. On 7 May, enjoy some leisure time before we head to A panoramic drive brings us to Thessaloniki’s Byzantine the airport for a flight to Thessaloniki, city walls. Emperor Theodosius (A.D. 379– Greece’s second-largest city and the 475) originally built them, but they were cultural capital of Byzantium. Founded in reconstructed in the 14th century. 315 B.C., Thessaloniki was an important At the fifth-century Monastery of metropolis by the Roman period, and it Latomou, we view a stunning Byzantine was the second-largest and wealthiest city mosaic depicting Christ as a youth. of the . Our final morning in Thessaloniki, we After a restful night, we visit Agios have special access to the excellent Museum Georgios, also called the Rotunda. This is of Byzantine Culture.* We are guided the oldest monument in Thessaloniki, a through its permanent exhibitions, which massive building that was first a Roman focus on early Christian churches, dwellings, mausoleum, then a Christian church, then and funerary rites. We then visit the a mosque. Its interior is decorated with View the 16th-century Virgin of Archaeological Museum of Thessaloniki, Byzantine mosaics. Next door is the Arch Tenderness at the Museum of exhibiting artifacts from the Archaic, of Galerius. Fourth-century Roman Byzantine Culture. Thessaloniki. Classical, Hellenistic, and Roman periods. Emperor Galerius commissioned both the Next, we fly to Athens. With the Rotunda and the arch as elements of an imperial precinct. At conversion of the from paganism to the intersection of the major axes of the city, the structures Christianity, monuments such as the , symbolized the emperor’s power. , and Hephaisteion were converted into Enter the fourth-century Church of St. Demetrios, churches. As the empire turned increasingly anti-pagan, dedicated to the patron saint of Thessaloniki. Today, this is a Athens became a somewhat provincial town whose fortunes UNESCO World Heritage site. waxed and waned. Some of its art was taken by the emperors

The Bosphorus, main artery of old Istanbul.

3  Art Institute of Chicago  2015 Sustaining Fellows Tour to Turkey & Greece with R. Crusoe & Son  312.980.8007 to Constantinople, but much of the Byzantine world remains Turkey & Greece Sustaining Fellows here. We have special access to the ,* and we Tour with Curator Karen Manchester. get an overview of Greek history from antiquity to the Day 1: U.S. medieval Byzantine period and beyond. Saturday, 2 May 2015 No visit to Athens would be complete without spending Overnight flight to Istanbul. time at the magnificent Acropolis and the Acropolis Museum.* Karen puts the site into historical context for us. Day 2: Istanbul, Turkey After lunch on your own, take some time at leisure. Sunday, 3 May 2015 The Byzantine and Christian Museum* boasts some of the Arrive Istanbul, transfer to hotel, check-in, welcome world’s most reception. Four Seasons Sultanahmet or Bosphorus. significant Byzantine Day 3-5: Istanbul treasures. We view Monday-Wednesday, 4-6 May 2015 the most important Byzantium art presentation, Topkapi Palace and Hagia pieces among its Eirene, option to Blue Mosque, dinner at the private home of pictures, scriptures, Serdar Gülgün, Chora Church, Pammakaristos Church, frescoes, pottery, option to Grand Bazaar, , Istanbul fabrics, and Archaeological Museum, options to Yerebatan Saray or a manuscripts. hammam (on your own), Bosphorus dinner cruise. Four Continue to the Seasons Sultanahmet or Bosphorus. Relief of Hera and Athena from National 403-402 B.C. Acropolis Museum.  Archaeological Day 6: Istanbul; Thessaloniki, Greece Museum* to view some of Greece’s most outstanding Thursday, 7 May 2015 Morning at leisure, fly to Thessaloniki, transfer to hotel, treasures. check-in. Thessaloniki hotel TBD. Our final full day in Athens begins at the sixth-century . Within, we view extraordinary mosaics Day 7: Agios Georgios, Thessaloniki from the early 12th century. One of the masterpieces? The Friday, 8 May 2015 image inside the . Agios Georgios Rotunda, Arch of Galerius, Church of St. Enjoy the remainder of the day in Athens as you wish. Demetrios, special private access to Museum of Byzantine We gather this evening for a festive farewell dinner and Culture, Archaeological Museum of Thessaloniki, fly home the following day, Wednesday, 13 May. Monastery of Latamou, Byzantine walls, evening at leisure. Thessaloniki hotel TBD. *Lenders to the Art Institute’s “Heaven and Earth” show. Day 8: Thessaloniki, Athens Saturday, 9 May 2015 White Tower, fly to Athens, transfer to hotel, check-in, evening at leisure. Hotel Grande Bretagne. Day 9-11: Athens Sunday-Tuesday, 10-12 May 2015 Special private access to Benaki Museum, Acropolis site and Acropolis Museum, leisure time, Byzantine Museum, National Archaeological Museum, leisure time, Daphni Monastery, farewell dinner. Hotel Grande Bretagne.  Day 12: Athens; U.S. Wednesday, 13 May 2015 Transfer to the airport, fly home.

Parthenon. Athens. This itinerary is subject to change.

4  Art Institute of Chicago  2015 Sustaining Fellows Tour to Turkey & Greece with R. Crusoe & Son  312.980.8007 taxes; entrance fees to museums and places of interest; baggage BOOKING DEADLINE handling; gratuities for local guides, drivers, porters; professional tour escort throughout; tour development and planning; The booking deadline for this journey is Friday, reservation management by Crusoe senior tour consultant; 20 February 2015. The Turkey & Greece preparation and delivery of preliminary and final documents. Sustaining Fellows tour is based on a minimum  Exclusions. Costs of obtaining passports and visas; airport of 20 travelers. Reservations are accepted on a first departure transfer; personal expenses such as laundry and come, first served basis. To register, please email, beverages (mixed drinks); room service; excess baggage fees; fax, or the included form on pages 6-8. communication charges; and personal insurance coverage, gratuity to tour escort. Prices  Visas. Please contact Nina Choi at [email protected] or Tour per person sharing room ...... $9,250 888-490-8007 for information regarding required entry visas. Single supplement ...... $2,990  Airfare. Air travel from/to the U.S. is not included in the Internal air (estimate) per person...... $390 price of the tour. Internal flights within the tour are included as a The tour is sold as described. There are no refunds for separate price. Internal air is nonrefundable at all times. unused portions of these segments. The tour price is based on  Registration. A deposit of $1,000 per person is required at a minimum number of 20 travelers as well as the time you book. The remainder of the cost of present currency exchange and fuel your trip is due 90 days prior to rates. If fewer than 20 travelers your departure date. Payment To book this journey, contact R. Crusoe’s participate, or if there is a Nina Choi at [email protected] Istanbul can be made by personal check, major change in exchange or call her at 888-490-8007. Visa, MasterCard, or Discover. rates, a price supplement If your reservation is made may apply and/or the GREECE within 90 days of departure, the itinerary may be adjusted. Thessaloniki TURKEY entire cost of the trip must be After booking, members paid at the time of confirmation. receive a confirmation. Expect Athens  a detailed itinerary a few Cancellation. Cancellations weeks before departure. received 90 days or more prior to Ionian Sea R. Crusoe strongly departure are subject to a $350 per recommends that travelers person cancellation fee. Cancellations received less than 90 purchase travel insurance. Mediterranean Sea  days prior to departure are subject to Meals. All breakfasts are included plus at the following forfeit as a percentage of least one lunch or dinner each day. tour cost: 89-60 days, 35 percent of tour cost;  Eligibility. All travelers must be AIC Sustaining 59-30 days, 50 percent of tour cost; 29 days or less, 100 percent Fellows, be in good health, and be able to walk during of tour cost. Internal air is nonrefundable at all times. touring. This tour requires travelers to walk on uneven and possibly slippery surfaces, and to go up and down stairs. R. Crusoe & Son strongly recommends travel Many venues do not have elevators. Walking is mandatory. insurance that includes coverage for trip By forwarding the deposit for this tour, the traveler certifies cancellation or interruption; illness or injury that he/she does not have any physical or other condition or while abroad; baggage loss, theft, or damage; disability that would create a hazard for him/her or others. and emergency medical evacuation. It is essential that persons with any medical problems or related dietary restrictions inform Crusoe well before Information on our policy is available. departure. All travelers are expected to be ready to experience cultural differences with grace.  Inclusions. Accommodations based on double occupancy; airport arrival transfer; internal air (priced separately); ground 312.980.8000 transportation, meals, and sightseeing as indicated; wine and local beer with included meals; lectures and special events; hotel © 2015 R. Crusoe & Son. 26 January 2015

5  Art Institute of Chicago  2015 Sustaining Fellows Tour to Turkey & Greece with R. Crusoe & Son  312.980.8007 REGISTRATION & PAYMENT FORM ART INSTITUTE OF CHICAGO SUSTAINING FELLOWS TOUR TO TURKEY & GREECE 2015

Please return all three pages of this completed form by email to Nina Choi at [email protected]; by mail to R. Crusoe & Son, 566 W. Adams St. No. 505, Chicago, IL 60661; or by fax to 312-980-8100. Any questions? Contact Nina Choi at R. Crusoe, tel. 888-490-8007 or email [email protected].

Traveler Name (s) Date:

TOUR RESERVATION q Per person sharing room q Single supplement $9,250 $2,990

Internal air is $390 (estimate) per person. Tour prices are based on a minimum of 20 participants, and reservations are accepted on a first come, first served basis. Please contact Nina Choi at [email protected] or 888-490-8007 with questions or to book.

TOUR RESERVATION

BOOKING DEADLINE: Friday, 20 February 2015 After that date, reservations are offered on a space-available basis. A per person deposit of $1,000 is required to guarantee your reservation for this tour. Payment by personal check is preferred. In addition, payment may be made using the credit cards listed below.

Method of Payment: q Personal check q Vi s a q MasterCard q Diner’s Club $ ______(made payable to Amount to charge R. Crusoe & Son)

Credit Card Number Expiration Date Security Code Month/Year On Back of Card

Cardholder’s Name (as it appears on the card)

Billing Address City State Zip Code

Shipping Address (if different from billing address) City State Zip Code

Cardholder’s Daytime Telephone Number Cardholder’s Evening Telephone Number

Cardholder’s Email Address q Yes, I have read and signed the Terms & Conditions on the following page. Payment constitutes acceptance of the Terms & Conditions as stated. Cardholder’s Signature

6  Art Institute of Chicago  2015 Sustaining Fellows Tour to Turkey & Greece with R. Crusoe & Son  312.980.8007 Traveler Name(s) Date:

TERMS & CONDITIONS

On the advancement of deposit, the depositor acknowledges Travel Insurance: R. Crusoe strongly recommends that that he or she has read and understands the specific travelers purchase travel insurance. Details will follow. inclusions, exclusions, registration, and cancellation policies Arrangements: Quoted tour prices include planning, handling, of the tour, the terms and conditions listed below, and that and operational charges and are quoted in U.S. dollars based on he or she agrees to be bound by them. Signature above the current rate of exchange, tariff, and fuel prices. authorizes payment to R. Crusoe & Son (“R. Crusoe”) for all Responsibility: R. Crusoe and its operating partners purchase tour charges. This tour is sold as described, and R. Crusoe transportation, hotel accommodations, restaurant services, makes no refund for unused portions of the tour. and other services from various independent suppliers that • Cancellation penalties apply. are not subject to its control. R. Crusoe and its operating partners cannot, therefore, be liable for any personal injury, • Expect a detailed itinerary a few weeks before departure. loss, or damage to person or property that may occur due to Prices: Prices are per person and based on a minimum number (1) a wrongful, negligent, or arbitrary act by others not under of 20 participants. If fewer than the minimum number of direct control of R. Crusoe and its operating partners, (2) travelers participates, a price supplement may apply and/or defects in, or failures of, any aircraft, vessel, automotive the itinerary may be adjusted. vehicle, or other means of transportation not under its control, or (3) acts of God. R. Crusoe and its operating Inclusions: Accommodations based on double occupancy; partners also reserve the right to withdraw a tour or any part internal air (priced separately); ground transportation, meals, of it, to make such alterations in the itinerary as it deems and sightseeing as indicated; wine and local beer with necessary or desirable, to refuse to accept or retain as a included meals; curator/lecturer and special events; hotel member of any tour or part thereof any person at any time, taxes; entrance fees to museums and places of interest; and to pass on to tour members any expenditures or losses gratuities for local drivers; tour development and planning; caused by airline schedule changes, delays, or events beyond reservation management by R. Crusoe senior tour consultant; its control. R. Crusoe and its operating partners are not preparation and delivery of preliminary and final documents. responsible for any expenses incurred by trip members in Exclusions: Airfare; airport arrival and departure transfers; preparing for the trip, including non-refundable or penalty- personal expenses such as laundry and beverages (mixed carrying airline tickets, special clothing, visa or passport fees, drinks); room service; excess baggage fees; communication or other trip-related expenses. charges; personal insurance coverage. Eligibility: All travelers must be AIC Sustaining Fellows, be in good health, and be able to walk during touring. Walking Visas: Please contact Nina Choi at [email protected] or and stair climbing are commonly part of many tours. 888-490-8007 for information regarding required entry visas. Travelers with physical disabilities must make them known Registration: Full payment is required at the time you book. to R. Crusoe & Son at the time of booking. Persons with any Payment can be made by personal check, Visa, MasterCard, medical problems or related dietary restrictions must inform Discover/Nova, and Diner’s Club. R. Crusoe & Son well before departure. Smoking: Smoking is not permitted during situations that Cancellation: Cancellations received less than 90 days prior involve fellow travelers. This applies when travelers are in to departure are subject to the following forfeit as a restaurants, sightseeing vehicles, and when participating in percentage of the tour cost: 89-60 days, 35 percent; 59-30 group activities. days, 50 percent; 29 days or less, 100 percent. Internal air is nonrefundable at all times. © 2015 R. Crusoe & Son. 26 January 2015

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7  Art Institute of Chicago  2015 Sustaining Fellows Tour to Turkey & Greece with R. Crusoe & Son  312.980.8007 TOUR PARTICIPATION AGREEMENT Waiver, Release of Liability, Indemnification and Consent

In exchange for my being allowed to participate in the Sustaining defending any claim I might make, or that might be made on my Fellows Tour to Turkey & Greece (the “Program”) sponsored by behalf, that is released or waived by this instrument), in any way the Art Institute of Chicago (“AIC”) to take place 2-13 May 2015, I connected with or arising out of my participation in the Program, agree to be bound by each of the following: whether or not caused in whole or in part by the negligence or other misconduct of AIC or any of the individuals mentioned above. 1. VOLUNTARY PARTICIPATION. I confirm that my participation in the Program is voluntary. 6. BINDING EFFECT. This instrument shall be binding upon my relatives, personal representatives, heirs, beneficiaries, next of kin, 2. IDENTIFICATION OF RISK. I understand that there are or assigns and shall inure to the benefit of AIC and its respective risks associated with my participation in the Program. Such risks successors and assigns. include, but are not limited to, the following: (a) loss of any or all money paid by me or on my behalf to participate in the Program as 7. CONSENT TO MEDICAL TREATMENT. I authorize AIC a result of bankruptcy, insolvency, mismanagement or fraud on the to provide to me, through medical personnel of its choice, part of the travel agent, tour operator, hotel, transportation customary medical assistance, transportation, and emergency provider or any other Program vendor; (b) injury, loss, damage medical services. This consent does not impose a duty upon AIC to and/or harm to person or property as a result of crime, civil unrest provide such assistance, transportation, or services. or acts of terrorism occurring during the Program; (c) actions, 8. SEVERABILITY AND APPLICABLE LAW. If any provision inactions, or negligence on the part of AIC or its directors, (or portion of any provision) of this instrument is held to be officers, trustees, employees, agents (including Program vendors), invalid or unenforceable in part to the fullest extent permitted by volunteers, successors, or assigns, including but not limited to, law, and such invalidity or unenforceability shall not otherwise risks created by the following: (i) the use and condition of various affect any other provision of this instrument. Because AIC is modes of transportation, premises, facilities, and equipment; (ii) the headquartered in the State of Illinois, and in order to provide lack or inadequacy of policies, rules, or regulations of the Program; certainty in the law to be applied to the construction of this (iii) the failure of AIC to foresee or to protect me from actions, instrument, this instrument shall be governed, construed, and inactions, negligence, recklessness, or international or criminal enforced in accordance with the law of the State of Illinois. misconduct of persons, other than those affiliated with AIC; (iv) the inadequacy or unavailability of medical facilities or treatment; THIS IS A WAIVER AND RELEASE OF or (v) the lack or inadequacy of supervision. I understand that the LIABILITY. I HAVE READ THIS WAIVER, risks associated with my participation in the Program include the possibility of permanent disability and death. RELEASE OF LIABILITY, INDEMNIFICATION, AND CONSENT. I UNDERSTAND THAT I 3. ASSUMPTION OF RISK. I understand that this Waiver and Release of Liability is intended to address all risks associated with HAVE GIVEN UP SUBSTANTIAL RIGHTS BY the Program and I voluntarily assume all such risks, whether SIGNING IT. I AM 18 YEARS OF AGE OR known and unknown, foreseeable and unforeseeable, in any way OLDER AND AM SIGNING THIS WAIVER, connected with my participation in the Program. I accept personal RELEASE OF LIABILITY, INDEMNIFICATION, responsibility for any liability, injury, loss, or damage in any way connected with my participation in the Program. AND CONSENT VOLUNTARILY. 4. RELEASE, WAIVER AND COVENANT NOT TO SUE. I release AIC and its directors, officers, trustees, employees, agents, PRINTED NAME volunteers, successors, and assigns from and waive all claims and covenant not to sue for any liability, injury, loss, or damage, including attorneys’ fees, in any way connected with my PRINTED NAME participation in the Program, whether or not caused in whole or part by the negligence or other misconduct of AIC or any of the individuals mentioned above. SIGNATURE 5. INDEMNIFICATION. I agree to indemnify and to hold harmless (in other words, to reimburse and to be responsible for) SIGNATURE AIC and its trustees, officers, employees, agents, volunteers, successors, and assigns from all claims for any liability, injury, loss, damage, or expense, including attorneys’ fees (including cost of DATE

8  Art Institute of Chicago  2015 Sustaining Fellows Tour to Turkey & Greece with R. Crusoe & Son  312.980.8007