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Global Heritage Fund Turkey: The World’s Earliest Cities & Temples September 14 - 23, 2013 Global Heritage Fund Turkey: The World’s Earliest Cities & Temples September 14 - 23, 2013 To overstate the depth of Turkey’s culture or the richness of its history is nearly impossible. At the crossroads of two continents, home to some of the world’s earliest and most influential cities and civilizations, Turkey contains multi- tudes. The graciousness of its people is legendary—indeed it’s often said that to call a Turk gracious is redundant—and perhaps that’s no surprise in a place where cultural exchange has been taking place for millennia. From early Neolithic ruins to vibrant Istanbul, the karsts and cave-towns of Cappadocia to metropolitan Ankara, Turkey is rich in treasure for the inquisi- tive traveler. During our explorations of these and other highlights of the coun- FEATURING: try, we will enjoy special access to architectural and archaeological sites in the Dan Thompson, Ph.D. company of Global Heritage Fund staff. Director, Global Projects and Global Heritage Network Dr. Dan Thompson joined Global Heritage Fund full time in January 2008, having previously conducted fieldwork at GHF-supported projects in the Mirador Basin, Guatemala, and at Ani and Çatalhöyük, both in Turkey. As Director of Global Projects and Global Heri- tage Network (GHN), he oversees all aspects of GHF projects at the home office, manages Global Heritage Network, acts as senior editor of print and web publica- tions, and provides support to fundraising efforts. Dan has BA degrees in Anthropology/Geography and Journalism, an MA in Near Eastern Studies from UC Berkeley, and a Ph.D. from the Institute of Archaeol- ogy at UCL in London, England. His research interests include archaeological GIS and multispectral imagery Istanbul, Turkey. analysis, landscape archaeology and cultural heritage We begin with an intimate exploration of Istanbul, indisputably one of the most monitoring, management and preservation. Dan has fantastic cities in the world. From here we journey to Göbekli Tepe, the old- spent 23 years living outside the United States and est human-made place of worship yet discovered, to examine the important speaks some French, Turkish, Italian, Spanish and Ger- work being done by GHF. Next, it’s on to the wonderland that is Cappado- man. Dan is also an Expert Member of the International Committee on Archaeological Heritage Management cia, a fairytale-like landscape of tufa valleys, towers, and cones. We’ll stare in (ICAHM). awe at carved cliff-rooms and Byzantine frescoes. After ambling in this natural marvel and getting an inside look at GHF’s work at Çatalhöyük, we continue Neolithic wall painting, Çatalhöyük © The Çatalhöyük Research Project to Turkey’s capital, Ankara. Our trip winds down in magnificently preserved Ephesus, once the second-largest city in the Roman Empire. We celebrate our time together and the meaningful work of GHF with a farewell dinner before returning home. Hagia Sophia, Istanbul, Turkey. Trip Highlights Hagia Sophia The Hagia Sofia, or the Church of Divine Wisdom, is an enduring symbol of Constantinople’s legacy, which, in the words of H.W. Janson in History of Art, “unites East and West, past and future, in a single overpowering synthesis.” Its colossal dome, intricate mosaics and décor, and innovative construction techniques have inspired countless generations and are bound to strike us, too. Writer Anthony Weller said it well: “Hagia Sophia is grand beyond descrip- tion. It swallows wide-angled lenses and colorful words like a tidal wave.” Built by Emperor Justinian in the mid-6th century, it was the greatest church in Christendom until the Ottoman Conquest in 1453, when it was converted to a mosque. In 1935, it was transformed into a museum. We explore the Hagia Sofia during a private, pre-hours visit. Basilica Cistern Constructed in the same period as the Hagia Sophia (in the 6th century), the awe-inspiring Basilica Cistern stored water for the Great Palace and other buildings. Its enormous, subterranean chamber is large enough to hold more than 20 million gallons. We walk through it on raised wooden platforms, gaz- ing at the lofty vaulted ceilings, supported by 336 columns in 12 rows, and looking down to see fish swimming languidly in the water that remains. Topkapı Palace From 1465 to 1856, the opulent Topkapı Palace was the center of Ottoman government and the court from which a succession of sultans ruled much of Europe and most of the Middle East. The palace was known as a place where rumors, plots, and court intrigue—both real and imagined—constantly swirled. Europeans were particularly fascinated by the Seraglio, the harem. Visitors painted it, wrote about it, and in Mozart’s case, even composed an opera about Basilica Cistern , Istanbul, Turkey. it (Abduction from the Seraglio). Cappadocia, Turkey. City Walls & Chora On the periphery of Istanbul stand the impressive city walls, built by Theodo- sius II in the 5th century. The fortification enclosed Constantinople with a stra- tegic series of defenses comprised of a moat, inner and outer walls, and nearly 200 towers. Within these walls stands the Chora Church Museum containing intricate Byzantine mosaics and frescoes. The Bosphorus In the light of late afternoon, a private cruise along the Bosphorus, the famed strait connecting the Black Sea and the Mediterranean, reveals a tableau of Stabilization of Pillar 18 at Göbekli Tepe. © Nico Becker, DAI mansions, minarets, forts, and palaces, as well as Istanbul’s majestic skyline. Göbekli Tepe GHF’s newest conservation project, Göbekli Tepe is an Early Neolithic site of enormous significance, featuring five-meter-high monolithic pillars carved in relief and dating to 10,000 or more years ago. Erected within circular “temple” formations, the latest excavations have revealed that these structures likely covered the entire hillside and could number as many as 20 in total. Göbekli Tepe has been interpreted as the oldest human-made place of worship yet dis- covered. Until excavations began, a complex on this scale was not thought pos- sible for a community so ancient. The site and its extant remains are threatened by looting, exposure, and insufficient management of the site and its resources. Learn about this remarkable site in the company of GHF staff, who will discuss how GHF plans to protect it. Cappadocia, Including Göreme Open Air Museum and a Private Visit to the Dark Church There are unique landscapes, and then there is Cappadocia. Its wonderful for- mations are the result of seas of volcanic ash solidifying into soft stone, which in turn eroded dramatically into deep valleys, needle-like towers, and irregular cones. These natural formations were then carved into cave dwellings, monas- teries, chapels, and cellar villages. Outside the town of Goreme is the complex of painted churches carved out by Orthodox monks. The 9th- and 10th-century Byzantine frescoes in the Dark Church are considered among the most mov- ing expressions of early Christian art in the world. In addition to visiting these sites, we will have lunch at the home of a local family and visit a local rug- weaver’s association. Goreme, Cappadocia, Turkey. Enclosure D at Göbekli Tepe, Turkey © GHF Çatalhöyük Çatalhöyük, a site dating back nearly 10,000 years, is home to some of the world’s earliest mural art, and was thought to have a population of over 30,000 people, one of the world’s earliest cities. Many regard Çatalhöyük as being central to the origin of civilization in Turkey and the Middle East. It has been the focus of extensive archaeological investigation and conservation efforts since 1993 under the direction of Dr. Ian Hodder. Global Heritage Fund has funded conservation and community development work at Çatalhöyük since 2006. Ankara, including the Museum of Anatolian Civilizations While the region’s history dates back to the Bronze Age, Ankara itself came to prominence when Kemal Atatürk, founder of the Turkish Republic, used the city as his base in the War of Independence and subsequently established it as the capital in 1923. The city quickly transformed into a bustling, Turkish metropo- lis, a symbol of the country’s modern future. The superb Museum of Anatolian Civilizations houses exhibits spanning the course of human history, including Pa- leolithic, Neolithic, Bronze Age, Assyrian, Hittite, and classic Greek and Roman artifacts. We will be able to see many artifacts originating from Çatalhöyük here. Ephesus Library Ruins, Ephesus, Turkey. Unmatched in size and grandeur, Ephesus is the best-preserved classical city in the eastern Mediterranean and home to the Temple of Arte- mis, one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. Before the Ionian Greeks founded the city in the 11th century BC, native Anatolians worshiped their fertility goddess, Cybele, here. The Greeks replaced the cult of Cybele with that of Artemis and built a fabulous—and now famous—temple in her honor. Under Roman rule, when Ephesus fully blossomed, it became the Temple of Diana. Ephesus also had a strong Christian congregation early on, largely supported by believers whose ships and caravans converged here from all points of the Mediter- ranean and Asia Minor. Visit the amphitheater where St. Paul preached, walk along the marble streets once trod by Antony and Cleopatra, behold the magnificent mosaic floors and frescoed walls of the luxurious Terrace Houses, and marvel at the gymnasium, baths, and wonder- fully restored Library of Celsus. Along the way, small

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