index INDEX 319

Arcadius 8; (column of) 184 Balat 213–14 Archaeological Museum 93ff Baldwin, Count of Flanders 15 Argonauts, myth of 259, 263, 276 Balıklı Kilisesi 197–98 Major references, in cases where many are listed, are given in bold. Numbers in italics Armenian, Armenians 25, 189, 192, Balkapanı Han 132 are picture references. 193, 241–42, 258, 278; (Cemetery) Baltalimanı 258 268; (Patriarchate) 192 Balyan family of architects 34, 161, 193; Arnavutköy 255 (burial place of) 268 A Alexander, emperor 67 Arsenal (see Tersane) Balyan, Karabet 34, 247 Abdülaziz, sultan 23, 72, 215, 251; Alexander the Great 7; (sculptures of) 96 Ashkenazi 228 Balyan, Kirkor 34, 234 (burial place of) 117 Alexander Sarcophagus 94, 95 Astronomer, office of 42 Balyan, Nikoğos 34, 246, 247, 249, Abdülhamit I, sultan 23, 118; (burial Alexius I, emperor 13, 282 At Meydanı (see Hippodrome) 252, 255, 274, 275 place of) 43 Alexius II, emperor 14 Atatürk 24, 42, 146, 237, 248; Balyan, Sarkis 34, 83, 247, 258, 272, Abdülhamit II, sultan 23, 251, 252, Alexius III, emperor 14 (Cultural Centre) 242; (Museum) 243; 267 278; (burial place of) 117 Alexius IV, emperor 15 (statue of) 103 Bank, Ottoman 227 Abdülmecit I, sultan 71, 93, 161, 164, Alexius V, emperor 15 Atik Ali Pasha 171; (mosque of) 119 Barbarossa, pirate and admiral 152, 247; (burial place of) 162 Ali Pasha of Çorlu, külliye of 119–20 Atik Mustafa Paşa Camii 216 250, 250; (burial place of) 250; Abdülmecit II, last caliph 24 Ali Sufi, calligrapher 157, 158 Atik Sinan, architect 130, 155, 212; (ensign of) 250; (statue of) 249 Abu Ayyub al-Ansari 12, 219; (türbe of) Altımermer district 186 (grave of) 159–60 Barry, Sir Charles, architect 238 220, 221 Amalfitans, territory of 13, 38 Atik Valide Camii 266–67 Bartlett, W.H., artist 151 , palace of 273 Amcazade Hüseyin Pasha, külliye of Atıf Efendi, library of 147 , emperor 44, 63, 196 Adrianople (see ) 149–50; (yalı of) 274 Attila the Hun 9, 194 Basil II, emperor 12, 196 Aetius, of 203 Amycus, mythical king 276 , site of 44 cistern 46 Ağa Camii 242 Anadolu Feneri 276 Avars 12, 194, 217 Bayram Pasha, külliye of 185 Ağa Hamamı 189 Anadolu Hisarı 17, 274 Avrupa Pasajı 241 Bebek 256 Aghiasma (see Blachernae, Zoödochos Pigi) Anadolu Kavağı 276 Aya Kapı 165 260 Ahi Çelebi Camii 133 Anastasius I, emperor 217 Ayazma Camii 265 Belgrade 197, 260 Ahır Kapı 109 Andrew, St 210 Aynalı Pasaj 241 Belgrat Kapı 197 Ahmediye, külliye of 266 Andronicus I, emperor 14 Aynalıkavak Kasrı 215–16, 216 , general 9, 48 Ahmet I, sultan 82, 88, 104; (burial Andronicus II, emperor 160 Aynalıkavak, Treaty of 216 Bellini, Gentile, artist 158 place of) 107 Andronicus III, emperor 171 216–18 Bereketzade fountain 229 Ahmet III, sultan 83, 120, 146, 216, Anemas Tower 218 Ayyub (see Abu Ayyub) Berger-Boronai, Aliye, artist 236 216, 248; (burial place of) 42 Angelus, Alexius III 14 Aznavur, Hovsep, architect 164, 212 Beşiktas 249–50 Ahmet Karahisarı, calligrapher 135, 208 Angelus, Isaac II 14, 15; (tower of) 217 Beşir Ağa Camii 52 Ahmet Paşa Mescidi 169 Anna Dalassena 154, 282 B Beyazıt I, sultan 17, 274 Ahrida Synagogue 214 Anthemius of Tralles, architect 54 Baldwin, Count of Flanders 15 Beyazıt II 19, 123, 213, 224, 241; Aivazovsky, Ivan, artist 273 Antiochus and Lausus, palaces of 116– Balkan Wars 23 (burial place of) 122 Akathist Hymn 217 17 Bab-ı Hümayün, gate at Topkapı 72, Beyazıt Camii 29, 120–21; (külliye of) Akıntıburnu 256 Antony of Novgorod 62 158 122–24 Akoimatoi, monastic order 190, 275 of 147–48 Bab-üs Saadet, gate at Topkapı 72, Beyazıt Tower 124 Aksaray 22, 141 Arabs, siege of 12, 194 76–77 Beykoz 275 Alay Köşkü 52 Arap Cami 226 Bab-üs Selam, gate at Topkapı 74 Beykoz ware 76; (see also Paşabahçe Alcibiades 264 Arasta Bazaar 108 Bahriye Nezareti 206 glass) 320 blue guide INDEX 321

Beylerbeyi Camii 273 Byzantine churches Caricature Museum 149 Çinili Köşk 100, 100 Beylerbeyi Palace 35, 272 Andrew of Crete 188 Carlowitz, Peace of 274 Beyoğlu 235ff Constantine Lips 27, 160 Carpets 35 of Aetius 203 Bezmialem, Valide Sultan 246 Haghia Eirene 26, 89–92 Çarşamba district 166 of Aspar 164 Binbirdirek Cistern 117 Haghia 9, 15, 16, 19, 26, 27, Casanova, Giacomo 239 Basilica (Yerebatan) 46 Bird houses 243, 243 28, 29, 54ff Cavafy, Constantine 259 Binbirdirek (Philoxenus) 117 Blachernae 216–18 Holy Apostles 92, 93, 155 Çavuş Hamam 214 of St Mocius 187 7, 25, 36, 244, 263, 276 John the Baptist of Studius 26, 190–91 Cedid Mehmed Efendi Medrese 45 Sarnıç restaurant 70, 296 Blue Mosque 104–06, 105; (külliye of) John the Baptist in Trullo 169 Cedrenus, chronicler 277 of Theodosius 117 106 Kyriotissa 141–42 Çelebi, Evliya 64, 127, 143, 150, 155, Cırağan Palace 249, 251 B’nai Mikra Synagogue 215 Mary of the Mongols 211 159, 199, 219, 222, 229, 273, 274; Claudius II, emperor 103 Bodrum Camii 140 Myrelaion 140 (birthplace of) 133; (dream of) 133, Column of 184 Boğaziçi University 256 Pammakaristos 28, 166, 168 206 118 Boğdan Saray 182 Panachrontos 160 Çemberlitaş 118 Column of 150, 151 Boğos Bey Maksadar, architect 271 Pantepoptes 154 Çemberlitaş Hamam 119 Commodity Exchange 43 Boniface of Monferrat 14 Pantocrator 152–54 Cemeteries Comnenus dynasty 13–14, 217 Bonneval, Count (see Kumbaracı) Peter and Mark 216 Armenian 268 Comnenus, Alexius I 13 Bosphorus 244ff Peter and Paul 114 Crimean War 270 Comnenus, Alexius II 14 254, 255 Polyeuctus 148, 149 Edirne Kapı 202 Comnenus, Andronicus 14 Botter House 236 Saviour in Chora 28, 170ff, 179 Eyüp 222, 223 Comnenus, Isaac 170, 173 Bourgeois, Marie-Auguste Antoine, Sergius and Bacchus 26, 114–15 Hasköy 215, 228 Comnenus, John II 13–14, 66, 153 architect 124 Theodore 147 Karaca Ahmet 268 Comnenus, Manuel I 14, 118, 153, 266 Boyacıköy 258 Theodosia 165 Rumeli Hisarı 258 Con Pasha 283 Boza 146 Theotokos in Chalkoprateia 53 Çengelköy 272 8, 48, 49, 92, British Embassy 238 , city of 7 Cerrah Paşa Camii 183, 184 103; (burial place of) 155; (bust of) Bucoleon, Palace of 109–10 Byzantium, Palace of 44, 108, 109–10 Cervantes, Miguel de 232 97; (column of) 118; ( of) 46, Bulgars 12, 194 Byzas, founder of Byzantium 7, 223, Cevri, servant girl 88 118; (mosaic portrait of) 67; (walls of) Bulwer, Sir Henry 279 224 Cezayirli Gazi Hasan Pasha 206, 207 8, 110 Burgazada 279–80 Chain across 18, 99, 231, , emperor 196 Burmalı Cami 147 C 243, 247, 250 Constantine IX, emperor 65 Bursa 17 Cafer Baba 33 , Megarian colony 7, 271 Constantine XI, emperor 17–19, 56, Bursa style mosques 29, 128, 129, 183 Caferağa Medrese 53 12, 44, 173 165, 202, 204, 205 Busbecq, Augier Ghislain de 239 Cağaloğlu Hamam 50–51 Chalkoprateia, basilica of 53 Constantine Lips, church of 27, 160 Büyük Çamlıca, hill 268 Cage (see Kafes) Chénier, André, poet 229 Constantine Porphyrogenitus, column of Büyük Londra Hotel 237, 290–91 Caliphate 24 Christie, Agatha 237 49–50 Büyük Mecidiye Camii 255 Calligraphic Art, Museum of 123 Chronograms 32–33 Constantius, emperor 54, 90 Büyük Selimiye Camii 269 Camondo family 228, 259 Chrysopolis, Athenian colony 7, 8, 264 Council of Chalcedon 271 Büyük Taş Hanı 141 Camondo Stairs 225, 227 Cibali district 164 Council of Constantinople 8 Büyük Valide Han 127 Canonica, Pietro, sculptor 242 Çiçek Pasajı 241 Council of Ferrara-Florence 17, 153 Büyük Yeni Han 127–28 Cantacuzenus, John 17 Cihangir Camii 234 Crimean Memorial Church 236 Büyükada 190, 282–84 Cantemir, Dimitrie 217 Çinili Cami 267 Crimean War 269, 273 Büyükdere 260 Çardaklı hamam 114 Çinili Hamam 152 Crimean War Cemetery 270 322 blue guide istanbul index 323

Çubuklu 275 Edirne 17, 19 Fındıklı 234 Gazanfer Ağa, medrese of 149 Cuno, Helmut, architect 270 Edirne Kapı 19, 147, 202 Florence Nightingale Museum 269 Gedikpaşa Hamam 120 Eğri Kapı 204 Forum Amastrianum 147 Gennadius, patriarch 153, 167, 168, D Egyptian Market (see Spice Bazaar) Forum of Arcadius 184 169, 210 d’Aronco, Raimondo, architect 34, 252, Egyptian obelisk 47, 48–49 Forum Bovis 141 Genoa, Genoese 13, 18, 38, 153, 224, 256, 260 Eirene, empress 282 46, 118 226, 228–29, 262 Dalassena, Anna 154, 282 Eirene, wife of Alexius I 282 124, 124 Genoese walls 227 Dalgıç Ahmet Çavuş, architect 38, 68, Eirene, wife of John II 65, 66, 152; (sar- Forum Tauri 124 Gerlach, Stefan 164 145 cophagus of) 59 Fossati, Gaspare, architect 34, 56, 63, German Fountain 47 Dallam, Thomas 88 Ekmekçizade Ahmet Pasha, medrese of 68, 229 Gérôme, Jean-Léon, artist 248 Damat Șehit Ali Pasha, library of 146 146 Fossati, Giuseppe, architect 56, 63, 68, Gevher Sultan, medrese of 184 Dandolo, Enrico 14, 15; (sarcophagus Embassies of Pera, general 238–39 229, 238 Giustiniani, Genoese commander 18 of) 65 Embolos of the Holy Well 44 14–15 Gökalp, Ziya 117 Darius, king of Persia 7, 244, 257 Emirgan 258 Fountains, general 32–33 (see also Gökçen, Sabiha 25 Davut Ağa, architect 38, 68, 119, 160, Enderunlu Fazıl, poet 216 Sebils) Göksü stream 274 183 Enver Pasha 23 of Ahmet III 70 Golden Gate 196 Davut Paşa Camii 186 Eski Imaret Camii 154 Bereketzade 229 Golden Horn 206ff de Amicis, Edmondo 89, 193 Eski Saray 20, 71, 107, 124 German 47 Golden Horn, chain that closed (see Dede Efendi 146 Esma Sultan Yalısı 255 Hekimoğlu Ali Pasha 235 Chain) Derviş Mehmet 104 Esma Sultan, namazgah of 114 İshak Ağa 276 Goodwin, Jason 205 Dervish hospice, Camii 159 Etz Ahayim, Synagogue 255 of Mihrişah 274 Goth’s Column 103 Dervish lodges, general 31 Eudoxia, empress 54 233, 234 Grand Bazaar (Kapalıçarşı) 125–27 230 Eugénie, empress of France 272 Four Seasons Hotel 109 Grande Rue de Péra (see İstiklal Caddesi) Merkez Efendi 199 Euphemia of Chalcedon, St 117, 210 France, French 228, 231, 239 Great Palace (see Palaces) Yenikapı 199 Eyüp 218–23 Franz Joseph, emperor of Austria 259, 12, 205 Yıldız Dede 43 272 Greek Orthodox Patriarchate (see Divan (Imperial Council) 74, 75, 116 F French Consulate (old plague hospital) Ecumenical Patriarchate) Divan Yolu 116 Fatih (see Mehmet II) 242 Greek Orthodox Seminary 281 Dogs, stray 279 258 Greeks in Istanbul 24, 25, 164, 189, Dolmabahçe 35, 71, 245–48, 246 Fatih Camii 155ff G 209, 277 Draman Camii 182 Fatih Park 148, 149 Galata 13, 14, 224ff , St, relics of 210 Ducaina, Anna 166, Fazıl Ahmet Pasha 118 36, 39 Gregory the Miracle-Worker, column of Ducaina, Maria the Elder 170 Fenari İsa Camii 27, 160 229 62 Ducaina, Maria the Younger 167 208–13 Galatasaray Hamam 242 Gregory V, patriarch 164, 209 Ducas, Alexius V 15 Ferruh Kethüda, mosque of 213 Galatasaray Lycée 241 Gül Camii 165 Ducas, John III 15 Feshane 218 Galatasaray Meydanı 241 Gülbahar, consort of Mehmet II, türbe Duckworth, Admiral Sir John 278 Fethi Ahmet Pasha 93; (yalı of) 272 Galip Dede 231 of 157 Dülgerzade Camii 150 Fethiye Camii 28, 166–68, 168 Garipçe 263 Gülbahar, consort of Süleyman the Dutch Chapel 238 Fikret, Tevfik 257 Garnier, Jean-Paul, clockmaker 247 Magnificent 135 Fire Brigade Museum 148 Gastria, monastery of 188 Güler, Ara 297 E First Hill 44ff Gate of Felicity, Topkapı 76–77 Gülersoy, Çelik 25, 45, 70, 251 Ecumenical Patriarchate 209, 210 Firuz Ağa Camii 116 Gate of Salutation, Topkapı 74 Gülhane Park 102–03 324 blue guide istanbul index 325

Gülüstü, Valide Sultan, burial place of Hamams contd Hills, of Constantinople, general 36–37 63, 284 159 Mahmut Pasha 130 First Hill 44ff Ihlamur Kasrı 248–49 Gyllius, Petrus 46, 49, 114, 147, 244, Mimar Sinan 264 Second Hill 125 Imperial Gate, Topkapı 72, 158 259, 262, 263, 276 of Roxelana 44 Third Hill 140 İmrahor Camii 190 Ortaköy 255 Fourth Hill 152 Independence Monument 242 H Süleymaniye 137 Fifth Hill 162ff Innocent II, pope 14 Hacı Ahmet Pasha, türbe of 266 Tahtakale 131 Sixth Hill 202 Io, myth of 223, 244 Hacı Bekir confectioner’s 43 Hamidiye Camii 252 Seventh Hill 183ff Isaac II Angelus 14, 15; (tower of) 217 Hacı Hüsrev Camii 218 Hamlin, Cyrus 256 Hippodrome 8, 47–50, 47, 105; İshak Ağa fountain 276 Hacı Kemaleddin Camii 258 Handicrafts centre 45 (factions of) 9, 48 İshakpaşa Camii 109 Hacı Mehmet Emin Ağa, külliye of 247 Hans, general 31, 127 Hırka-i Şerif Camii 161 Isidorus of Miletus, architect 54 Hadım İbrahim Pasha, mosque of 197 Balkapanı Han 132 Hodegetria, of 171, 190; (of the Isidorus the Younger, architect 54 Haghia Eirene 26, 89–92, 90 Büyük Taş 141 Patriarchate) 210; (Panaghia Kafatiani) Istanbul Handicrafts Centre 45 Haghia Paraskevi, Büyükdere 261 Büyük Valide 127 232 İstiklal Caddesi 241, 236–42, 240 Haghia Paraskevi, Tarabya 260 Büyük Yeni 127–28 Holy Apostles, church of 92, 93, 155 İstinye 259 Haghia Sophia 9, 15, 16, 19, 26, 27, Hurmalı 132 , emperor 8 Italian Synagogue 228 28, 29, 54ff, 55 Küçük Yeni 128 Horoz Dede 133 İvaz Efendi Camii 217 Haghia Triada 242 Kürkçü 130 Hospice of Samson 92 Iznik tiles 34–35, 69, 132, 187 Haghios Christos 280 Narmanlı 236 Houghton, Lord 268 Haghios Dimitrios Kanabu 214 St Pierre 228 Hungary, Hungarians 111, 125, 135, J Haghios Georgios, Fener 209 Vezir 119 161, 183, 199 Jachmund, August, architect 50 Haghios Georgios Metochi 211 Zindan 133 Hünkar İskelesi 276 Janissaries 18, 19, 22, 22, 116, 146, Haghios Georgios, Edirnekapı 203 Harem, Topkapı 83ff Hurmalı Han 132 269 Haghios Nikolaos, 164 Hasan Çelebi, calligrapher 135 Hürmüzyan, Kirkor, architect 261 Janissary music 243 Haghios , 255 Hasan, janissary 200 Hürrem (see Haseki, Roxelana) Jason, myth 276, 259, 260, 263 Halide Edib 256 Haseki Hürrem (see Roxelana) Hüseyin Ağa, black eunuch 114 Jewish Museum 227, 228 Halki Seminary 281 Haseki Hürrem, külliye of 185 Hüsrev Pasha, türbe of 161 Jews in Istanbul 19, 25, 38, 43, 123, Hamams, general 31–32, 51 Hasköy 214–16 213, 214, 215, 224, 228 Ağa Hamam 189 Haydarpaşa Station 270, 270 I , St 54, 63; (relics of) Atik Valide 267 Hayrettin Pasha (see Barbarossa) İbrahim, sultan 82; (burial place of) 68 210 Beyazıt 123–24 Hazrat Hafir, tomb of 205 İbrahim Pasha, Grand Vizier of Beyazıt , emperor 196 Çağaloğlu 50–51 Hazzopulo passage 241 II, mosque of 127 John II, emperor 13, 65, 66, 153 Çardaklı 114 Hekimoğlu Ali Paşa Camii 186 İbrahim Pasha, Grand Vizier of John III, emperor 15 Çavuş 214 Hekimoğlu Ali Pasha, fountain of 235 Süleyman the Magnificent 110–11, John IV, emperor 16 Çemberlitaş 119 Helena, St 188 135 John V, emperor 17 Çinili 152 Helvacı Camii 111 İbrahim Pasha (Nevşehirli), Grand Vizier John VIII, emperor 17, 153, 281 Eyüp 222 , emperor 12, 196 of Ahmet III 146 Joseph II, patriarch 17, 153 Galatasaray 242 Hereke carpets 35 İbrahim Pasha, son-in-law of Murat III, the Apostate, emperor 113, 192 Gedikpaşa 120 Herodotus 244 türbe of 145 Julliard, Émile 249 İshakpaşa 109 Heybeliada 280–82 , Iconoclastic Period 12, 59, Justin II, emperor 103, 113, 277 Kılıç Ali Pasha 233 Hezarfen Ahmet Çelebi 229 63, 90, 190, 217 Justinian, emperor 9, 44, 46, 54, 90, 92, Küçük Mustafa Pasha 165 Hidiv Kasrı 275 Ignatius the Younger, patriarch and saint 114, 198, 224; (mosaic portrait of) 67 326 blue guide istanbul index 327

K Koca Sinan Pasha, külliye of 119 Mahmut I, sultan 51, 64; (burial place Medreses contd 164 Harbour 192 of) 42; (fountain of) 233, 234 Nevşehirli İbrahim Pasha 146 Kadıköy 271 Köprülü family 118, 120, 149, 239 Mahmut II, sultan 22, 23, 43, 88, 165, of Fatih mosque complex 158 Kadırga Limanı 113 Köprülü külliye 117–18, 119 234, 247, 249, 269; (burial place of) Haseki Hürrem 185 Kafes (Cage) 82, 87 Köprülü Mehmet Pasha, türbe of 118 117; (tuğra) 74 Süleymaniye 137–38 Kalenderhane Camii 141–42 Kösem, Valide Sultan 21, 89, 107, 127, Mahmut Paşa Camii 128–29 Rüstem Pasha 131 Kalyoncu Kışlası 206 267; (burial place of) 107 Mahmut Pasha Hamam 130 Şehzade 145 Kandilli 273 Kouppas, Pelopidas 171 Maiden’s Column (see Column of Selim I 161 Kanlıca 274 Krippel, Heinrich, sculptor 103 Marcian) Megali Scholi 212 Kapalıçarşı 125–27 Küçük Aya Sofya Camii 114–15 Maiden’s Tower 265 Mehmet Ağa, architect (see Sedefhar Kara Ahmet Paşa Camii 200 Küçük Mecidiye Camii 252 Makros Embolos, Byzantine street 131 Mehmet, Mehmet Tahir) Kara Mustafa Pasha 118, 120 Küçük Mustafa Paşa Hamam 165 Mansel, Philip 238, 244 Mehmet II, the Conqueror 20, 125, Karabeinikov, Tryphon (see Tryphon) Küçük Yeni Han 128 Mantles of the Prophet 79, 161 128, 158, 158, 220, 262; (and Karaca Ahmet Cemetery 268 Küçüksu 274, 275 Manuel I, emperor 14, 118, 153, 266 Armenians) 193; (burial place of) 157; Karadavut Paşa Camii 265 Kuleli 273 Manuel II, emperor 153 (builds Fatih Camii) 155; (and Greek Karahisarı, calligrapher (see Ahmet Külliyes, general 30–31 Manzikert, battle of 13 Patriarch) 153, 167, 210; (siege and Karahisarı) Kumbaracı Ahmet Pasha (Count Marcian, column of 150, 151 conquest) 18, 19, 42, 45, 56, 199, Karaite Jews 38, 43, 215 Bonneval) 231 Maritime Museum 250 201, 202, 215, 247, 257; (statue of) Karaköy (see Galata) Kumkapı 192 Markets 149; (and Topkapı) 71, 72, 83, 100 Kariye Müzesi 170ff, 179 Kumrulu Mescit 159 Çarşamba 166 Mehmet II, the Conqueror, mosque of Kaşık, island 280 Kürkçü Han 130 Grand Bazaar 125–27 (see Fatih Camii) Kasımpaşa 206–07, 247 Kuruçeşme 255 Kadıköy 271 Mehmet III, sultan 68, 70, 149, 183; Kayalar Mescidi 257 272 Kumkapı 192 (burial place of) 68 Keçili Limanı 276 Kyriotissa, church of 142 around Rüstem Paşa Camii 132 Mehmet IV, sultan 107, 120; (burial Kefeli Camii 182 Secondhand booksellers 125 place of) 42 Kemal, Mustafa (see Atatürk) L Spice Bazaar 41–42 Mehmet V, sultan 23; (burial place of) Kemal, Yahya, poet 120 Laleli Camii 140–41 Marmara University 111 228 Kemalettin Bey, architect 43, 146, 256 Lascaris, Theodore I 15 Marmara University, Üsküdar 269 Mehmet VI, sultan 23, 24, 82, 239 Khedive of Egypt, residences of 256, 275 sack and occupation of Marmara, Sea of 244 Mehmet, son of Süleyman the Kibrıslı Yalısı 274 Constantinople 14–15, 56 103 Magnificent 142 Kilim Museum 107 Lecapenus, Romanus I 140, 278 Maslak Kasrı 259 Mehmet Tahir Ağa, architect 52, 140, Kilise Cami 147 , emperor 164 Matrakçı Nasuh, miniaturist 80 155, 273 Kireçburnu 260 Leo III, emperor 12 Medreses Mehter Band 243 Kılıç Ali Paşa 20, 232; (mosque of) Leo VI, emperor 60, 67 Atik Ali Paşa 119 Melling, Anton Ignaz 245, 253 232–33 Levni, miniaturist 80, 81, 215, 216 Atik Valide 267 Menderes, Adnan 279 Kınalıada 277–78 Lokum 43 Bayezıt II 123 Merkez Efendi Tekkesi 199 Kırmızı Yalı 274 Loti, Pierre 218, 223 Cafer Ağa 53 , Byzantine street 116, 141 Kız Kulesi (see Maiden’s Tower) Lucaris, Cyril, patriarch 281 Cedid Mehmed Efendi 45 Mesih Pasha 140 Kız Taşı (see Column of Marcian) Lycus River 160, 183, 200 Ekmekçizade Ahmet Pasha 146 Methodius, patriarch 279, 280 Koç Museum 214–15 Gazanfer Ağa 149 Metochion of Mt Sinai 212 Koca Mustafa Paşa Camii 188 M Gevher Sultan 184 Metochion of the Holy Sepulchre 211 Koca Reşit Pasha 122 Palace 109 Koca Sinan Pasha 119 Metochites, Theodore 171, 173, 178; 328 blue guide istanbul index 329

(tomb of) 182 Mosques contd Mosques contd Mualem Synagogue 215 Mevlana Kapı 198 Bereketzade 230 Kılıç Ali Pasha 232–33 Müneccim 42 Mevlevi Tekke, Galata 230 Beşir Ağa 52 Koca Mustafa Pasha 188 Municipality Museum 252 Michael I, emperor 278 Beyazıt 29, 120–21 Küçük Aya Sofya 114–15 Murat I, sultan 17 Michael I, patriarch 54 Beylerbeyi 273 Küçük Mecidiye 252 Murat II, sultan 17 Michael II, emperor 282 Blue 104–06, 105 Kumrulu 159 Murat III, sultan 21, 68–69, 83, 88, Michael III, emperor 63, 190, 196 Bodrum 140 Laleli 140–41 168; (burial place of) 68; (Privy Michael VIII, emperor 16, 190, 192, Burmalı 147 Mahmut Paşa 128–29 Chamber of) 87 196 Büyük Mecidiye 255 Mihrimah Sultan 202 Murat IV, sultan 77, 80, 82, 107, 229, Mihrimah Sultan Camii 202 Büyük Selimiye 269 Mihrimah Sultan, Üsküdar 264 258, 281; (burial place of) 107 Mihrimah Sultan Camii, Üsküdar 264 Cerrah Pasha 183, 184 Mimar Mehmet Ağa 147 Murat Paşa Camii 183 Mihrimah, daughter of Süleyman the Cihangir 234 Molla Çelebi 235 Murat V, sultan 251; (burial place of) 42 Magnificent 131, 136, 264 Çinili 267 Murat Pasha 183 Müridoğlu, Zühtü, sculptor 250 Mihrişah, Valide Sultan 84, 265; (foun- Davut Pasha 186 Nişancı Mehmet Pasha 160 Museums tain of) 274; (külliye of) 222 Dolmabahçe 246 Nuruosmaniye 128 Ancient Orient 101–02 116 Draman 182 Nusretiye 234, 234 Archaeological 93ff Military Museum 243 Dülgerzade 150 Osman Ağa 271 Atatürk 243 Mimar Mehmet Ağa Mescidi 147 Eski İmaret 154 Pertevniyal 141 Bank 227 Miniatürk 218 Eyüp 220 Piyale Pasha 29, 207 Calligraphic Art 123 Mısır Çarşısı (see Spice Bazaar) Fatih Camii 155ff Ramazan Efendi 187–88, 187 Caricature 149 Mocius, cistern of 187 Fenari İsa 160 Rum Mehmet Pasha 265 Çinili Köşk 100 Modern Art Museum 233 Ferruh Kethüda 213 Rüstem Pasha 131–32, 132 Fire Brigade 148 Mohács, battle of 161 Fethiye 166, 168 Șehzade 29, 142–43 Florence Nightingale 269 Mohammed, Prophet, companions of Firuz Ağa 116 Selim I 29, 162, 163 Jewish 227, 228 12, 205, 218, 219 Gül 165 Șemsi Pasha 265 Kariye170ff, 179 Mohammed, Prophet, mantles of 79, Hacı Hüsrev 218 Șepsefa Hatun 152 Kilim 107 161 Hacı Kemaleddin 258 Sinan Pasha 250 Koç 214–15 Molla Çelebi Camii 235 Hadım İbrahim Pasha 197 Sokollu Mehmet Paşa 111–13, 112 Maritime 250 Mongeri, Giulio, architect 34, 241 Hekimoğlu Ali Pasha 186 Süleymaniye 29, 134ff Military 243 Mongols, Melane, Lady of 173 Helvacı 111 Sultanahmet 29 (see also Blue Mosque) Modern Art 233 Monnier, military engineer 262, 276 Hırka-i Șerif 161 Takkeci İbrahim Ağa 199 Mosaic 108–09, 108, 109 Mosaic museum 108–09, 108, 109 İbrahim Pasha 127 Tavası Süleyman Ağa 193 Municipality 252 Mosques, design of 29–30 İmrahor 190 147 Panorama 1453 199 Ağa 242 İshakpaşa 109 Yavaşca Șahin 131 Rug 107–08 Ahi Çelebi 133 İvaz Efendi 217 Yavuz Ersinan 132–33 Sadberk Hanım 261 Ahmediye 266 Kalenderhane 141–42 Yeni Cami 29, 38ff Sait Faik 280 Ahmet Paşa 169 Kara Ahmet Pasha 200 Yeni Valide 265 Science and Technology in Islam 103 Arap Cami 226 Kara Davut Pasha 265 Yeraltı 231 Turkish and Islamic Arts 110–11 Atik Ali Paşa 119 Kara Mustafa Pasha 120 Zal Mahmut Pasha 218 Mustafa Ağa, architect 38 Atik Mustafa Pasha 216 Kayalar 257 Zeynep Sultan 52 Mustafa I, sultan, burial place of 68 Atik Valide 266–67 Kefeli 182 152–54 Mustafa II, sultan, burial place of 42 Ayazma 265 Kilise 147 Mouzalon, George 16 Mustafa III, sultan, burial place of 141 330 blue guide istanbul index 331

Mustafa IV, sultan, 22; (burial place of) Osman Gazi 16 Panaghia Gorgoepikoös, church of 186 Princes’ Islands 277ff 43 Osman Hamdi Bey 93, 94, 95, 144 Panaghia Kafatiani, church of 230, 232 Printing presses 123 Mustafa İzzet, calligrapher 63, 161 Osman II, sultan 107, 196; (burial place Panaghia Kamariotissa, chapel of 281 , historian 92, 115, 273 Mustafa Sa’i, poet 139, 188 of) 107 Panaghia Paramythia, church of 211 , empress 53, 117, 164, 217 Mustafa, son of Süleyman the Osman III, sultan 128; (burial place of) Panaghia Peribleptos, monastery of 189 Pulgher, Domenico, architect 236, 241 Magnificent 135, 219, 234 42 Panorama 1453, museum 199 Müteferrika, Ibrahim 123, 125 Ostrorog family 274 Pantepoptes, church of 154 R Myrelaion, church of 140 Ottoman Bank 227 Pantocrator, church of 152–54 Rabia Gülnuş Emetullah, Valide Sultan , rise of 16 Parks 265 N Our Lady of Pera, church of 241 Fatih 148–49 Rabbinate 214 Nakkaş Osman, miniaturist 137 Gülhane 102–03 Ragip Pasha, library of 141 Nakşidil, Valide Sultan 159 P Saraçhane 147 Rakı 294–95 Namazgah of Esma Sultan 114 Palaces Yıldız 251–52 Ramazan Efendi Camii 187–88, 187 Napoleon Bonaparte 260 of Antiochus and Lausus 116–17 Paşabahçe 275 Reform Movement (Tanzimat) 22, 23, Narlı Kapı 191 Beylerbeyi 35, 272 Paşabahçe glass 76, 240, 275 122 Narmanlı Han 236 of Blachernae 217–18 Patriarchate of Alexandria (see Metochion Ritter, Otto, architect 270 Neve Synagogue 228 of Bucoleon 109–10; (lions from) 95 of Mt Sinai) Robert College 255–56 Nevşehirli İbrahim Pasha 146 of Byzantium 9, 44–45, 108, 109–10 Patriarchate of Jerusalem (see Metochion Roman basement 164 Nicaea, empire of 15, 16 Dolmabahçe 35, 71, 247–48 of the Holy Sepulchre) Romaniot Jews 214 Nicene Creed 9 Eski Saray 20, 71, 107, 124 Paul the Silentiary 59, 60, 61, 64 Romanus I Lecapenus 140, 278 Nicephorus Gregoras, historian 103 of İbrahim Pasha 110–11 Pausanias, Spartan general 7 Romanus IV, emperor 13 Nicetas Choniates, chronicler 56, 66, 266 of the Porphyrogenitus 203 Pera (see Beyoğlu) , 7–8 Nigari, miniaturist 80, 250 Tekfur Sarayı 203–04 Pera Palace Hotel 50, 237, 237, 290 Roxelana 20, 71, 83, 135, 135; (burial Nightingale, Florence 269, 273 Topkapı 71ff Persians 7, 12, 217, 258 place of) 136; (hamam of) 44; (külliye Nika Revolt 9, 54, 48, 90, 92 Yıldız 251–52 Pertevniyal Valide Sultan Camii 141 of) 185 Nişancı Mehmet Paşa Camii 160 Palace School, Topkapı 33, 78 Peter and Paul, church of 114 Rug Museum 107–08 Nointel, Marquis de, French Palaeologina, Maria 212 Phanariots 209 Rum Mehmetpaşa Camii 265 Ambassador 239 Palaeologue Revival (in art) 28, 65, 65, Pharos, lighthouse 110 Rumeli Feneri 263 Nurbanu, Valide Sultan 21, 84, 119, 166, 168, 169, 172, 179 Philes, poet 169 Rumeli Hisarı 18, 257–58 250, 267 Palaeologus family 140, 153, 160, 183 Philip II of Macedon 7 Rumeli Kavağı 262 Nuruosmaniye Camii 128 Palaeologus, John V 17 Philip, duke of Swabia 14 Russia, Russian 216, 239, 276, 282 Nusretiye Camii 234, 234 Palaeologus, John VIII 17, 153, 281 Philoxenus, cistern of (see Binbirdirek) Russian Embassy 238 Palaeologus, Manuel II 153 Phocas, emperor 12 Rüstem Pasha 131, 135; (burial place O Palaeologus, Michael VIII 16, 190, 192, Photius, patriarch 63, 281 of) 145; (medrese of) 131 Old Palace (see Eski Saray) 196 Pierre Loti café 222 Rüstem Paşa Camii 131–32, 132 Ömer Ağa, architect 186 Palais de France 238 Piri Reis, cartographer 250 Orhan Gazi 17 Palais de Hollande 239 Pisans, territory of 13, 38 S Orient Express 50 Palazzo di Venezia 238 Piyale Paşa Camii 207–08 Sadberk Hanım Museum 261 Orphanage of St Paul 103 Pammakaristos, church of 28, 166–68, Plethon, Gemistos 16 Safiye, Valide Sultan 21, 38, 68 Orta Kapı, Topkapı 74 168 Population exchange (between Greece Șah Huban, türbe of 161 Ortaköy 253–55 Pamuk, Orhan 25, 42, 88 and ) 24 Șah Sultan, külliye of 219 Osman Ağa Camii 271 Panachrantos, church of 161 Poyraz 276 Sahaflar Çarşısı 125 332 blue guide istanbul index 333

St Andrew of Crete, church of 188 Sedef, island 284 Station 50 St Anthony of Padua, church of 241 Sedefhar Mehmet Ağa, architect 104 Sivri, island 279 Ahrida 214 St Benoit, church of 231 Șehzade Camii 29, 142–43 Siyavuş Pasha, türbe of 219 Ashkenazi 228 St Euphemia, church of 271 Selim I, sultan 19, 145, 189, 250; (buri- Sokollu Mehmet Pasha 21, 52, 112; B’nai Mikra 215 St George, monastery of, Büyükada 283, al place of) 162; (medrese of) 161; (türbe of) 219 Etz Ahayim 255 284 (mosque of) 162, 163 Sokollu Mehmet Paşa Camii 111–13, Italian 228 St John the Baptist, Burgazada 280 Selim II, sultan 21, 68, 83, 135, 219; 112 Mualem 215 St John the Baptist of Studius 26, 190 (burial place of) 68, 69 Sphrantzes, George 204, 205 Neve Shalom 228 St John the Baptist in Trullo 169 Selim III, sultan 22, 72, 216, 233, 269, Spice Bazaar 41–42 Zulfaris 227, 228 St Mary Draperis 240 275; (burial place of) 141 Splendid Hotel 283, 290 St Mary of the Mongols 211 Selimiye Barracks 268–69 Strategopoulos, Alexius 197 T SS Peter and Mark, church of 216 Seljuks 13, 16, 35 Stratford de Redcliffe, Lord, British Tahtakale Hamam 131 SS Peter and Paul, church of 229 Seminati, Delfo, architect 275 Ambassador 236 Takiuddin, astronomer 273 St Polyeuctus, church of 148, 149 Șemsipaşa Camii 265 Street, G.E., architect 236 Takkeci İbrahim Ağa Camii 199 St Saviour in Chora, church of 28, Senpiyer Han 228 Studius, Roman patrician 190 Meksemi 242 170ff, 179 Sepetçiler Kasrı 206 52 242 SS Sergius and Bacchus, church of 26, Şepsefa Hatun Camii 52 Süleyman II, sultan 20 Tanzimat (Reform) Movement 22, 23, 114–15 , emperor 8, 48; Süleyman the Magnificent 19–20, 83, 122 St Stephen of the Bulgars, church of 212 (walls of) 8, 50 110, 111, 135, 148, 185, 197, 250, Tarabya 260 St Theodosia, church of 165 Serpentine Column 49, 99 260; (burial place of) 136, 137 Tavası Süleyman Ağa Camii 193 Sait Faik Museum 280 Sevres, treaty of 23 Süleymaniye Mosque 29, 134ff; (külliye Tavşan, island 284 Șale Köşk 252 Şeyh Galip, poet 216 of) 136–39 Tek, Vedat, architect 109, 270 Saliha, Valide Sultan 226 Şeyh Hamdullah, calligrapher 123 Sultanahmet Camii 29 (see also Blue Tekfur Sarayı 203–04 Salipazarı (Fındıklı) 234; (Kadıköy) 271 Șeyh Muslihiddin Vefa 147 Mosque) Tekkes, general 31 district 189 Șeyh Süleyman Mescidi 154 Sultanahmet district 104ff Galata 230 Sancaktar Hayrettin Mescidi 188 Siege of 1453 18–19, 199, 200, 247 Sultanahmet prison (see Four Seasons) Merkez Efendi 199 Sapphire Tower 256 Silivri Kapı 197 Sulu Monastir 189 Yenikapı 199 Saraçhane Park 147 Simeon, architect 128 202 Yıldız Dede 43 Saray Burnu 103 Sinan Hamamı 264 Sumahan on the Water, hotel 273, 290 Telli Baba, türbe of 262 Sarıyer 261 Sinan, architect 33, 53, 57, 122, 137, Sümbül Efendi 189 Terrae Sanctae, chapel of 238 Scutari (see Üsküdar) 157, 182, 188, 189, 219, 224, 250, Surp Asdvadzadzin, church of 192 Tersane, arsenal 206 Sea walls 18, 110, 164, 192, 208 255, 265, 266, 267, 274; (burial place Surp Boğos, church of 261 Theodora, empress, wife of Justinian 9, Sebils, of) 139; (commissions for Barbarossa) Surp Hovhannes Mıgırdıç, church of 273 Abdülhamit I 52 152, 250; (commissions for Kılıç Ali) 191 Theodora, wife of Michael VIII 160 Azapkapı 226, 226 232, 233; (commissions for Mihrimah Surp Kevork (see Sulu Monastir) Theodore, St 190; (church of) 147 Hacı Mehmet Emin Ağa 247 and Rüstem Pasha) 131, 145, 202, Surp Levon, church of 271 Theodore I, emperor 15 Koca Sinan Pasha 119 264; (commissions for Sokollu Surp Reşdagabet, church of 213 Theodore II, emperor 16 Koca Yusuf Pasha 235 Memhet Pasha) 111, 219; (commis- Surp Santuht, church of 258 Theodosian walls 18, 171, 194ff Mustafa III 141 sions for Süleyman the Magnificent) Swedish Consulate 236 Theodosius Cistern 117 Şehzade 146 134, 143, 162, 185, 234, 261; (work Sweet Waters of Asia 274 , emperor 8–9, 47, 49; Yeni Cami 43 at Topkapı) 75, 76, 86, 87 Sweet Waters of Europe 223 (Forum of) 124, 124; (triumphal arch Séchan, Charles, set designer 248 Sinanpaşa Camii 250 Symplegades, the 263 of) 196 334 blue guide istanbul index 335

Theodosius II, emperor 9; (harbour of) Türbes contd V Yavaşca Șahin Camii 131 192; (rebuilding of Haghia Sophia) 54, Köprülü Mehmet 118 Valens, aqueduct of 147–48 Yavuz Ersinan Camii 132–33 57; (walls of) 9, 171, 194ff Mahmut II 117 Valide Sultans, general 84 196 Theophilus, emperor 67, 110, 196, 282; Mahmut Pasha 130, 130 Vallaury, Alexander, architect 34, 93, Yedikule Kapı 197 (walls of) 192 Mehmet II 157 237, 269 Yeni Bahçe district 160 Theotokos, aghiasma of 216–17 Mehmet III 68 Vaniköy 273 Yeni Cami 29, 38ff Theotokos in Chalkoprateia, basilica 53 Mehmet V 222 Vefa Bozacisi 146 Yeni Mahalle 262 Theotokos Pammakaristos (see Mihrişah Valide Sultan 222 Vefa Camii 147 Yeni Valide Camii 265 Pammakaristos) Murat III 68 Vefa district 146–47 Yenikapı 192 Theotokos Panachrantos (see Mustafa III 141 Venice, Venetians 13, 38, 153, 182, Yenikapı Mevlevihanesi 199 Panachrantos) Nakşidil 159 239; (and Fourth Crusade) 14, 15 Yeniköy 259 Tiberius II, emperor 231 of the Princes 70 Versailles, Treaty of 24 Yeraltı Cami 231 Ticaret Borsası 43 Roxelana 136 Vezir Hanı 119 Yerebatan Sarnıcı 46 Tophane 233 Süleyman the Magnificent 136, 137 Via Egnatia 116, 196 Yesarı, calligrapher 216 Top Kapı, gate 199 Rüstem Pasha 145 Vilayet 52 Yeşil Ev 45 Topkapı Sarayı 71ff Şah Huban 161 Yıldız Dede Tekkesi 43 Tott, Baron de, military engineer 263, Șehzade 144, 145 Y Yıldız, palace and park 251–52 282 Selim I 162 Yavuz Selim (see Selim I) Yıldız porcelain 76, 251 Toussaint, military engineer 262, 276 Selim II 68, 69 Yazid, Arab leader 12 Yuşa Tepesi 276 Tower of Eirene 127 Sinan, architect 139 Young Turk revolution 23 Transfiguration, monastery of, Büyükada Siyavuş Pasha 219 Z 283 Sokollu Mehmet Pasha 219 W Zafir Efendi, türbe of 252 Trotsky, Leon 283 Sümbül Efendi 189 Walls Zakariya al-Kazwini 220 Tryphon 187, 211 Telli Baba 262 Genoese 233 Zal Mahmut Paşa Camii 218 Tulip Era 77, 87, 146, 248 Vefa 147 along the Golden Horn 18, 164, 208 Zara, city of 14 Tulip Festival 259 Yahya Efendi 252 landward 18, 194ff Zembilli Ali Efendi, mektep of 152 Tulips, introduced to Western Europe Yeni Cami 42 along the Marmara 110, 192 Zeuxippus, baths of 44 239 Zafir Efendi 252 Theodosian 9, 18, 171, 194ff Zeynep Sultan Camii 52 Tünel 226 Turhan Hatice, Valide Sultan 21, 38, 89; Wilhelm II, Kaiser 47, 252 Zeyrek Camii 152–54 Türbes (burial place of) 42; (külliye of) 41 Wortley Montagu, Lady Mary 260 Zeyrek district 152–54 Abdülhamit I 43 Turkish & Islamic Arts Museum 110–11 Zindan Han 133 Abdülmecit I 162 Turkish delight 43 Y Zindan Kapı 133 Abu Ayyub 220, 221 Turkish Orthodox Church 232 Yahya Efendi, shrine of 252 Zoë, empress 65, 276 Ahmet I 107 Yahya Sufi, calligrapher 157 Zonaro, Fausto, artist 80, 201, 202, 248 Barbarossa 250 U Yakub-şah bin Sultan-şah, architect Zoödochos Pigi, shrine of 197–98 Beyazıt II 122 Üç Horon, Armenian church of 242 120–21 Zulfaris Synagogue 227, 228 Galip Dede 231 Ulu Cami mosque type 29, 207 Yassı, island 279 Gülbahar 157 Union Church of Istanbul 238 Hacı Ahmet Pasha 266 University of Istanbul 124 Hüsrev Pasha 161 Urban, Hungarian engineer 199, 205 İbrahim Pasha 145 Üsküdar 264–68 Koca Sinan Pasha 119 Uzunçarşı Caddesi 131