Amsterdam 10

Plan Your Trip 1 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Amsterdam

“All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go!” TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET

THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Catherine Le Nevez Karla Zimmerman Contents

PlanPlan Your Your Trip Trip page 1 4

Welcome to If You Like…...... 20 Canals...... 34 Amsterdam...... 4 Month by Month...... 23 Museums & Galleries... 39 Amsterdam’s Top 10...... 6 With Kids...... 26 Eating...... 42 What’s New...... 13 By Bike...... 29 Drinking & Need to Know...... 14 ...... Like a Local...... 31 Nightlife 48 First Time...... 16 ...... For Free...... 33 Entertainment 56 Top Itineraries...... 18 Shoppping...... 58

Explore Amsterdam 62

Neighbourhoods Western Canal Ring ��112 De Pijp �� 187 at a Glance �� 64 Southern Canal Ring �� 127 Oosterpark & South Amsterdam �� 199 Medieval Centre Jordaan & the West ��147 & Red Light District ��66 Vondelpark Day Trips Nieuwmarkt, Plantage & & the Old South �� 165 from Amsterdam �� 208 the Eastern Islands ��92 Sleeping �� 224

Understand Amsterdam 237

Amsterdam Today ��238 Dutch Painting �� 251 Dutch Design ��265 History ��242 Architecture in Amsterdam ��257

Survival Guide 269

Transport ��270 Language �� 281 Directory A–Z ��275 Index ��289

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Amsterdam’s Top 10 7 Van Gogh Museum (p170) Brown Cafés (p49) Housing the world’s largest collec- For the quintessential bite of Am- 1 tion by artist Vincent van Gogh, the 2 sterdam, pull up a stool in one of museum is as much a tour through the the city’s famed brown cafés (traditional driven painter’s troubled mind as it is Dutch pubs). The true specimen has been a tour through his body of work. More in business a while and gets its name from than 200 canvases are on display, from centuries’ worth of smoke stains on the his dark, potato-filled early career in the walls. Brown cafés have candle-topped ta- Netherlands through to his later years bles, sandy wooden floors and sometimes in sunny France, where he produced his a house cat that sidles up for a scratch. best-known work with its characteristic Most importantly, brown cafés induce a giddy colour. Paintings by contemporaries cosy vibe that prompts friends to linger Gauguin, Toulouse-Lautrec, Monet and and chat for hours over drinks – the same Bernard round out the retrospective. enchantment the cafés have cast for 300 1 Vondelpark & the Old South years. BELOW: HOPPE (P81) 6 Drinking & Nightlife ATLANTIDE S.N.C./AGE / ROBERT HARDING © LONELY PLANET / GETTY IMAGES © JOE DANIEL PRICE / GETTY IMAGES © YADID LEVY / ROBERT HARDING ©

AMSTERDAM’S TOP 10

PLAN YOUR TRIP 8 9 YADID LEVY / ALAMY STOCK PHOTO © PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN AMSTERDAM’S TOP 10 TOP AMSTERDAM’S

Rijksmuseum (p167) Jordaan (p147) Vondelpark (p173) The Netherlands’ If Amsterdam’s neigh- On a sunny day it 3 top treasure house 4 bourhoods held a 5 seems the whole city does not disappoint. The ‘best personality’ contest, converges on this sprawl- crowds huddle around the Jordaan (once the ing equivalent of New Rembrandt’s humongous workers quarter) would York City’s Central Park. Night Watch and Vermeer’s win. Its intimacy is con- Couples kiss on the grass, Kitchen Maid in the Gallery tagious, with modest old friends cradle beers at the of Honour, but that just homes, offbeat galleries outdoor cafes, while others means the remaining 1.5km and vintage shops pep- trade songs on beat-up of rooms are free for brows- pering a grid of tiny lanes. guitars. Street perform- ing antique ship models, This is the place for jovial ers work the crowds and savage-looking swords, bar singalongs and beery kids rush the playgrounds. crystal goblets and magic brown cafés, the neigh- It’s all very democratic, lanterns. You could spend bourhood where you could and sublime for people days gaping at the beauti- spend a week wandering watching. The English-style ful and curious collections the narrow streets and still layout offers an abundance tucked into the nooks and not discover all the hidden of ponds, lawns, thickets crannies. What’s more, free courtyards and tucked- and winding footpaths that sculpture-studded gardens away eateries. By now you encourage visitors to get surround the monumental know the Dutch propensity out and explore the free- building. for gezelligheid (convivial- wheeling scene. 1 Vondelpark & the Old ity); the Jordaan is a font 1 Vondelpark & the Old South of it. South 1 Jordaan & the West 10 Outdoor Markets (p59) King’s Day (p23) Amsterdam is market-mad, and its For decades it was Queen’s Day, but 6 streets hold spreads from silks and 7 there’s a new monarch in the house. coins to organic cheeses and bike locks. So now it’s King’s Day (Koningsdag), cel- The Albert Cuypmarkt is king of the lot. ebrated on King Willem-Alexander’s birth-

PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN Here Surinamese and Indonesian immi- day of April 27 (unless it falls on a Sunday, grants mix with locals at stalls hawking in which case it’s celebrated the day rice cookers, spices and Dutch snacks, before). Whatever the name, whatever the such as sweet stroopwafels (syrup-filled date, it’s really just an excuse for a gigantic waffles). Flowers fill the Bloemenmarkt, drinking fest and for everyone to wear while porcelain teapots and other bric-a- ridiculous orange outfits, the country’s brac tempt at Waterlooplein Flea Market. national colour. There’s also a free market The Oudemanhuis Book Market has been citywide (where anyone can sell anything) AMSTERDAM’S TOP 10 TOP AMSTERDAM’S selling tomes for a few centuries. Then and rollicking free concerts. there’s the antiques market, farmers mar- z Month by Month ket, art market… BELOW: BLOEMENMARKT (P129) 7 Shopping MASSIMOBORCHI /CORBIS © 11 COLLPICTO / ALAMYSTOCK PHOTO © PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN AMSTERDAM’S TOP 10 TOP AMSTERDAM’S

ALEKSANDAR VRZALSKI /GETTY IMAGES © Canal Trips (p34) Amsterdam has more 8 canals than Venice and getting on the water is one of the best ways to feel the pulse of the city. You could catch the vibe by sitting canal-side and watching boats glide by: myriad cafés seem purpose- built for this sport. Or you could stroll alongside the canals and check out some of the city’s 2500 houseboats. Better yet, hop on a tour boat and cruise the curved passages. From this angle, you’ll understand why Unesco named the city’s waterways a World Heritage Site. 2 Canals 12

Anne Frank Huis (p114) DENNISVDW /GETTY IMAGES © Seeing Anne Frank’s melancholy bed- 9 room and her actual diary, sitting alone in its glass case, is a powerful experience that draws a million visitors annually. Step

PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN behind the bookcase that swings open to reveal the ‘Secret Annexe’ and go up the steep stairs into the living quarters. It was in this dark and airless space that the Franks observed complete silence during the day, outgrew their clothes, pasted photos of Hol- lywood stars on the walls and read Dickens, before being mysteriously betrayed. AMSTERDAM’S TOP 10 TOP AMSTERDAM’S 1 Western Canal Ring PAULO AMORIM /GETTY IMAGES ©

Cycling (p29) There are more bicycles in Amsterdam than cars. Everyone rides: young, old, 10 club-goers in high heels, cops on duty, bankers in suits with ties flapping in the breeze. Pedal power is what moves the masses to work, to shop and to socialise at the cafés. Renting a bike not only puts you shoulder to shoulder with locals, it gives you easy access to the city’s outer neighbourhoods and their cool architecture and museums, as well as the windmill-dotted countryside and its time-warped villages. 2 By Bike ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

AOur beat-up Story old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

Our Writers Catherine Le Nevez Nieuwmarkt, Plantage & the Eastern Islands; Southern Canal Ring; Vondelpark & the Old South; De Pijp; Day Trips from Amsterdam Catherine’s wanderlust kicked in when she first roadtripped across Europe, including Amsterdam, aged four, and she’s been returning to this spirited, gezellig city ever since, completing her Doctorate of Creative Arts in Writing, Masters in Professional Writing, and post-grad qualifications in Editing and Publishing along the way. A freelance writer for many years, Catherine has written scores of Lonely Planet guides and articles over the last decade or so, covering Amsterdam, the Nether- lands and destinations all over Europe and beyond. For this guide Catherine also wrote Drinking & Nightlife and Shopping. Read more about Catherine at: https://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/catherine_le_nevez

Karla Zimmerman Medieval Centre & Red Light District, Western Canal Ring, Jordaan & the West, Oosterpark & South Amsterdam During her Amsterdam travels, Karla admired art, bicycled crash-free, ate an embarrassing quantity of frites and bent over to take her jenever like a local. She has been visiting Amsterdam since 1989, decades that have seen her trade space cakes for stroopwafels, to a much more pleasant effect. She never tires of the city’s bobbing houseboats, cling clinging bike bells and canal houses tilting at impossible angles. Karla writes travel features for books, magazines and online outlets. She has authored or co-authored several Lonely Planet guidebooks covering the USA, Canada, Caribbean and Europe. For this guide, Karla also wrote Welcome to Amsterdam, Amsterdam’s Top 10, What’s New, Need to Know, First Time, Top Itineraries, If You Like, Month by Month, With Kids, By Bike, Like a Local, For Free, Eating, Entertainment, Canals, Museums & Galleries, Amsterdam Today, History, Dutch Painting, Architecture in Amsterdam, Dutch Design and the Survival Guide. Learn more by follow- ing her on Twitter and Instagram (@karlazimmerman). Read more about Karla at: https://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/karlazimmerman

Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN 36 005 607 983 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason- 10th edition – May 2016 able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about ISBN 978 1 74321 857 0 the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi- © Lonely Planet 2016 Photographs © as indicated 2016 mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in China All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 298

Amsterdam Maps

Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Gate Walking Tour detour Sikh Hut/Shelter Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lighthouse Winery/Vineyard Lookout Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Mountain/Volcano International Other Sight Oasis State/Province Park Disputed Activities, Pass Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Picnic Area Marine Park Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff Diving Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Population Course/Tour Capital (National) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (State/Province) River, Creek Skiing City/Large Town Intermittent River Snorkelling Town/Village Canal Surfing Water Swimming/Pool Transport Walking Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing Border crossing Reef Other Activity Bus Cable car/Funicular Areas Sleeping Cycling Airport/Runway Sleeping Ferry Camping Metro station Beach/Desert Monorail Cemetery (Christian) Eating Parking Eating Petrol station Cemetery (Other) S-Bahn/Subway station Glacier Drinking & Nightlife Taxi Drinking & Nightlife T-bane/Tunnelbana station Mudflat Cafe Train station/Railway Park/Forest Tram Entertainment Tube station Sight (Building) Entertainment U-Bahn/Underground station Sportsground Other Transport Shopping Swamp/Mangrove Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book 3 (p304) Red LightDistrict South 2 (p300) Red LightDistrict North 1 MAP INDEX Medieval Centre & Medieval Centre & Nieuwmarkt (p306)

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