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Maps Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Events Hotels February – March 2018

Zurich People The CEO of Zurich Tourism reveals his favourite places

Confronting the Cold Ice skating, hammams and fondue trams

FREE COPY inyourpocket.com N°45 Jetzt downloaden Löwenstrasse 40, Like us on «the Gallery»-App für Fashion Liebhaber! www.thegalleryconcept.ch Contents

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Arriving & Getting Around 5

City Basics 7

History 10

Culture & Events 11 Concerts, shows and exhibitions

Zurich people 14 Meet Martin Sturzenegger, the CEO of Zurich Tourism

Restaurants 16 Fine dining, cheesy treats and much more

26 There are plenty of things to do in winter, such as ice skating at Cafés Dolder (p. 39) or Heuried (p. 53). Find more wintry activities and Chocolate, coffee and conversation day trips into the snow in our Winter Joys chapter on p. 52. Stefan Schmidlin Nightlife 27 Bars, pubs and clubs Shopping 40 Sightseeing 31 Fancy fashion and Swiss design Churches, murals and museums Watches & Jewellery 46 Zurich for kids 39 Major fun for minor citizens Zurich Nord 50 Restaurants and bars in the north of the city

Leisure 51 Laser tag, scavenger hunts and zoos

Winter joys 52 Fondue trams, ice skating and ski resorts

Queer Zurich 54

Hotels 55 Maps & Index City map 58-60 In our interview with Martin Sturzeneggger, the CEO of Zurich Index 61 Tourism tells us about his favourite restaurants and bars and what Public transport map 62 he loves and doesn’t love about Zurich. ZIYP

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facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket February – March 2018 3 Foreword In the coming weeks you’ll no doubt see lots of different faces on the city’s billboards while taking a stroll around COVER STORY town. All of the smiles are a reminder to Zurich’s citizens that they have to elect a new city government (Stadtrat) This issue’s cover features a view and city parliament on March 4. The governement is usually of the old town from the tower firmly in the hands of the so-called left/greens and the of Grossmünster church, which majority of the Stadtrat has been occupied by the Social is open to the public and worth Democrats (SP) and the Green Party (Grüne) since 1990. a visit. From here you can see In the parliament, however, the situation is quite the River and St. Peter’s different. Since 1990 the left/greens have only held the church with its huge clockface. majority twice and in the last elections, four years ago, they ended up just one seat short of the majority. This meant that the conservative bloc (FDP, SVP, CVP) could sometimes PUBLISHER & STAFF prevail in the city parliament when they could coax the Publisher green liberals to their side. pocket publishing GmbH, Wuhrstrasse 15, 8003 Zürich This situation with different majorities in parliament and tel. (+41) 32 510 85 76, [email protected],​​​​​​​​​​​ government is probably a good thing and maybe even www.inyourpocket.ch part of the city’s secret to success. More balanced solutions Member of Zürich Tourism / Spirit Club are often found when the sides are forced to compromise, Yearly print run: 180 000 (6 x 30 000) than when one group has the majority in both bodies. Even ISSN 1663-9944 © pocket publishing GmbH 2018 Mayor Corine Mauch (SP) seems to think so. She famously said that when both bodies are dominated by the same Editor & General Manager Lukas Füglister forces ‘one tends to become cocky.’ Copy editor Mārtiņš Zaprauskis, Layout & Maps Tomáš Haman But enough politics; read on and discover everything Photos For photographers see photos Cover ©Zurich Tourism there is to see and experience in this beautiful city! Sales manager Susi Haefeli, [email protected], (+41) 32 511 28 68, Ad rates at www.inyourpocket.ch, next issue’s closing date: March 9, 2018 Lukas Füglister has lived in Zurich for nearly 15 years now. As editor Editor’s note & Copyright notice The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent and general manager of Zurich In from paid-for advertising. We assume no responsibiltiy for Your Pocket he made sharing his changes and errors. Content copyright pocket publishing GmbH. profound knowledge of the city Photos copyright photographers. No part of this publication may his profession in 2010. He loves be reproduced without written permission from the publisher. dining out, craft beer and tennis The brand name In Your Pocket and maps are used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, LT, and never tires of exploring Zurich. tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76). [email protected] Europe’s largest publisher of locally produced ONLINE city guides

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4 Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com Arriving & Getting Around ARRIVING BY PLANE Zurich International Airport (ZRH) lies 13 kilometres north of the city centre in Kloten and handles around 700 flights a day going to over 170 destinations worldwide. You can find ATMs and switzerlandinfo desks at Arrival OFFICIAL INTERNET SHOP 1 and Arrival 2 just after you pass customs. There you can WWW.PARTIMEWATCH.COM find free copies ofZurich In Your Pocket. There is a big public shopping area with most shops open from 08:00 - 21:00 (groceries from 06:00 - 23:00) and free Wi-fi for the first 120 minutes, just connect your device to ’ZurichAirport’. Getting to town: The easiest and fastest way to get to and from the airport is by train. Catch a train at the underground train station near terminals 1 and 2 - if the sign on the platform reads Zurich HB (HB = Hauptbahnhof = main station), it’s the right train. Up to 10 trains leave an hour and the journey takes roughly 10 minutes. Tickets can be bought SWISS at the counters or at the ticket machines (switch them to MADE English on the first screen) next to the stairs leading down to the platforms. A ticket for an adult is 6.80Sfr and valid for one hour in the whole city (3 zones). If you plan to do more travelling by public transport, make it a 24-hour ticket for just twice the price or consider buying a Zürich Card (see p. 35). A taxi ride to central Zurich costs around 60Sfr. Official taxi stands are just outside Arrivals 1 and 2.

Tram N°10 takes you from the airport via to Zurich main station as well. The journey takes 37 minutes and the same tickets valid for the trains can be used.

ARRIVING BY TRAIN Zurich’s main train station, referred to by locals as HB (short TO SEE THIS CUP YOU for Hauptbahnhof, say haa-bay), is right in the centre of the NEED TO MAKE IT TO THE city. All international and domestic trains leave and arrive here. From the platforms just follow the herd towards the WORLD CUP FINAL – main hall, where you will find the main exit towards the city OR TO ZURICH. centre, the ticket offices and Tourist Information (see p. 9). Trams, buses and taxis leave just outside the station. At the ticket office in the main hall you can buy train tickets (also available at the many ticket machines), tickets for public transport in Zurich and also change money. For timetables and tickets refer to www.sbb.ch, call tel. (+41) 900 300 300 (1.19Sfr/min) or download the ‘SBB Mobile’ app to your smartphone.

ARRIVING BY BUS Buses from many European countries arrive at the bus station (Bus Terminal Sihlquai, F‑10), a two-minute walk north from the main train station (close to track 18). There are no long-distance buses in . Zurich sightseeing buses also depart from here. ™ ARRIVING BY CAR The Swiss highways A1, A2, A3 and A4 lead from WWW.FIFAMUSEUM.COM all directions to Zurich and if you follow the signs Seestrasse 27, 8002 Zurich to Zurich City, the city centre is quite easy to reach. facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket February – March 2018 5 ZIYP_60x90_en_Version Q1_2018_v03_hgs.indd 1 08.01.2018 16:08:16 Arriving & Getting Around Sadly, parking is scarce and very expensive. For overnight them start at Bellevue and pass by Central and Escher-Wyss parking you can try to find a spot in the so-called blue zone Platz. They require a 5Sfr supplement to any valid ticket. in residential areas - parking there is free from 19:00 - 08:00. Send a text message from your mobile with the word ’NZ’ Indicate your arrival time on your parking disk. to 988 to purchase the supplement by phone. Driving in Switzerland is generally easy. If you’re using Trains the motorways you have to buy a vignette for 40Sfr. The train network is best for getting around Switzerland Remember that trams always have the right of way, as well quickly and in comfort. For timetables visit www.sbb.ch. as pedestrians on zebra crossings without traffic lights. Tickets are sold at vending machines and at the counters in the main hall of Zurich’s main train station. The legal blood alcohol limit for drivers is 0.05%. The standard speed limit is 50km/h in urban areas, 80km/h outside towns and 120km/h on motorways. BICYCLES In residential zones, the speed limit is often 30km/h. Fines are ZÜRI ROLLT - BIKES FOR FREE high and yes, Switzerland makes sure you pay the fine even Bikes to borrow for free - all you need is an ID and 20Sfr if you have a foreign number plate. You may use your home as a deposit. It’s located at the southern exit of the main driving licence in Switzerland as long as it is valid. station, close to track 3.QF‑11, Velostation Europaplatz, Hauptbahnhof, www.zuerirollt.ch. Open 08:00 - 21:30. FREE-FLOATING RENTAL BIKES There are several hundred free-floating rental bikes available throughout Zurich operated by two different companies. You simply download the respective app and register your credit card and then you’ll be able to see where the closest bike is located and book it. Then find and unlock it with your phone and hop on! You can leave it at any public bike parking spot after using it. LIMEBIKE, green, three gears, more comfortable to ride. 1Sfr per half hour, no deposit and the first ride is for free. Qwww.limebike.com. Busy Bahnhofstrasse - watch out for the trams! Zurich Tourism OBIKE, yellow, only one gear, only recomended in the flat PUBLIC TRANSPORT area. 1.50Sfr per half hour, deposit 129Sfr. Qwww.o.bike City transport Zurich’s public transport network includes trams, buses, local TAXI SMARTS trains and even ships on the lake and the river. The ticket system is fairly simple: the regional network is divided into Taxis in Zurich are in general clean, safe, reliable - and zones. You don’t buy tickets for a trip, but rather for a zone. expensive. It‘s usually easy to get one, even at rush hour. The network of the city of Zurich is zone number 110 (see The city sets the following maximum prices for taxis: map p. 62). Tickets are valid in the chosen zones on all kinds of initial fee 8Sfr, 5Sfr per kilometre, 80Sfr per hour. The actual transportation. For ships on Lake Zurich and the River Limmat fees have to be displayed on a sticker on the door of the a 5Sfr supplement to any valid ticket is required (buy it when car. In reality only two prices exist: the maximum fee and boarding the ship). A 24-hours pass for the city will cost you the lower one many companies charge (incl. the two listed 8.80Sfr, a single ticket valid for one hour 4.40Sfr. Children up to below): initial fee (Basis on the sticker) 6Sfr, 3.80Sfr per five travel for free, 6 - 16 year-olds pay the so-called half-fare kilometre (Distanz), 69Sfr per hour (Wartezeit). When taking (which is actually 3.10Sfr). These tickets can be purchased at a taxi from a stand, check the prices on their door. Yes, you the ticket machines you find at almost every stop (most take are free to take any taxi at a stand. At official taxi stands, credit cards). Note that and the airport are not within you will often find the more expensive ones (especially at zone 110. If you get caught without a valid ticket, you’ll be the main train station). The ridesharing service Uber also fined 90Sfr. For more advice on public transport go to the VBZ operates in Zurich. You can order your driver easily by using Ticketerias situated at larger tram stops throughout the city. its app. Fares are usually significantly cheaper than standard Another option is the Zürich Card (27Sfr/24hrs, taxi fares (initial fee 3-6Sfr, 1.80 - 3.60Sfr per kilometre, 0.30 53Sfr/72hrs), which is valid for zone 110 as well as between - 0.60Sfr per minute, higher if demand is higher). Or try the the airport and the city and it also gives you free admission app Your-Taxi, the local equivalent of Uber (4Sfr, 2.50Sfr to many museums. See p. 35 for more information. per kilometre, 0.29Sfr per minute).

Public transport in Zurich runs roughly from 05:00 - 00:30. TAXI 444Qtel. (+41) 44 444 44 44, www.taxi444.ch. There are night buses all night from Friday to Saturday and TAXI 7x7Qtel. (+41) 44 777 77 77, www.7x7.ch. from Saturday to Sunday to all parts of the town. Most of

6 Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com City Basics BASIC DATA DRINKING The drinking age in Switzerland is 16 for wine and beer and Area 18 for spirits and alcopops. The standard sizes for beer are Switzerland: 41285 km² the 0.3 litre Stange (pronounce: shtang-eh) and the 0.5 litre Zurich (Canton): 1729 km² Grosses (gro-sus). The long-standing medium-scale brewers are Zurich (City): 92 km² increasingly getting competition from local brewers. Check out Population Sprint, Paul, Chopfab or Appenzeller for instance. Swiss wines Switzerland: 8 million are also not to be underestimated. While the best come from Zurich (city): 405,000 further south, you’ll find some good Blauburgunders and Riesling Sylvaners from the Zurich region. Official languages Switzerland: German, French, Italian, Romansh Zurich: German ELECTRICITY Electricity in Switzerland is 230 V, 50 Hz AC. Plug sockets Local time are round and take three round pins - they can take Central European (GMT+1h) Europlugs with two pins. If you are coming from the US or the UK (as well as from many other countries) you need an adaptor. Travellers from the US (and other countries with a CUSTOMS a different voltage) additionally need a voltage converter. Switzerland is not a member of the European customs union. On the one hand that gives you the opportunity to buy real tax-free goods at airports when you are travelling HEALTH & EMERGENCY from and to Switzerland. On the other hand there are tight Emergency telephone numbers (operators usually speak restrictions on the goods you can take free of customs duty basic English): from Switzerland to your country. For EU-countries the following customs and tax allowances apply (for other Ambulance: 144 countries check with the according customs authorities): Police: 117 Fire brigade: 118 If you need medical attention, there are several walk-in medical centres, like Permanence at the main train station (facing Bahnhofstrasse), where you just pull a ticket and wait your turn ((+41) 44 215 44 44, Bahnhofplatz 15, open 07:00 - 22:00) or mediX (+41) 44 298 50 50, Badenerstrasse 41, open 07:00 - 21:00, Sun 08:00 - 18:00). Zurich also has three public hospitals with walk-in emergency units which are open 24 hours a day for urgent matters. EMERGENCY UNIT UNIVERSITÄTSSPITAL QH‑11, Rämistrasse 100, 8ETH/Universitätsspital, tel. (+41) 44 255 11 11. Open 24 hrs.

USEFUL ZURICH APPS

A magical walk along the snow-covered lake promenade. Our own app, In Your Pocket City Essentials, features Zurich Tourism only our favourite places in Zurich (and many other cities). Tobacco: 200 (50 to some countries) cigarettes or 100 (20) Just as useful is the map, which is also available offline. It’s cigarillos or 50 (10) cigars or 250 (50) g of smoking tobacco. available for free on both iOS and Android. To download, simply go to iyp.me/app on your smartphone or scan Alcohol: 1 litre of spirits over 22% vol or 2 litres of spirits the QR code on the front cover of this guide. with less than 22% vol, 4 litres of still wine, 16 litres of beer. The free app ZVV-Fahrplan provides real time door- Other goods: Max value of all goods: 430 euros for air to-door timetable information for all public transport travellers and 300 euros for other travellers. within the ZVV network in the canton of Zurich. It also Goods over these limits must be declared when entering tells you where the nearest stop is, and how to get an EU-country, additional taxes and VAT may apply. from A to B. And it’s available in English. With the free ZVV-Tickets app you can buy tickets on the fly, quickly In Switzerland there is duty-free shopping for arriving and easily (App store and Google Play). passengers at airports. facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket February – March 2018 7 City Basics

EMERGENCY UNIT STADTSPITAL TRIEMLI QBirmensdorferstrasse 497, 8Triemli, tel. (+41) 44 NATIONAL HOLIDAYS 466 11 11. Open 24 hrs. January 1 New Year January 2 Berchtold Day (local) EMERGENCY UNIT STADTSPITAL WAID QC‑4, Tièchestrasse 99, 8Bucheggplatz, tel. (+41) 44 March 30, 2018 Good Friday 366 20 55. Open 24 hrs. April 2, 2018 Easter Monday April 16, 2018 Sechseläuten (Zurich only) Pharmacies May 1 Labour Day (Zurich only) To find out where the next pharmacy (Apotheke in German) May 10, 2018 Ascension on duty is, call (+41) 900 55 35 55 (1.50 Sfr/min). The pharmacy May 21, 2018 Whit Monday at Bellevue is always open 24 hrs (G-14, Theaterstrasse 14, August 1 National Holiday (+41) 44 266 62 22). September 10, 2018 Knabenschiessen (Zurich only) December 25 Christmas LANGUAGE Switzerland has four official languages: German (spoken MONEY by 64%), French (20%), Italian (6.5%) and Romansh (0.5%). The currency and legal tender of Switzerland is the Swiss Zurich lies in the German speaking part of the country, franc (Sfr), which is divided in 100 rappen. There are where people speak a German dialect, so called Swiss banknotes of 10, 20, 50, 100, 200 and 1000 francs. The German or Schwyzerdutsch. Be it among friends, at work coins in use are 1, 2 and 5 francs as well as 5, 10, 20 and or when dealing with the authorities, people speak dialect. 50 rappen.You can change your money at the SBB change However, Swiss people use standard German, so-called at the main railway station or any of the banks. Or just Hochdeutsch, when writing and speaking at school. withdraw Swiss francs with your Maestro or your Plus card from one of the ubiquitous ATMs. Credit cards are widely accepted - both in shops and restaurants. Service is always MAIL & PHONE included. At a restaurant however, if you were happy with Post: Swiss post is generally reliable and also can take care the service, leave 5-10% of the bill as a tip. of all your financial transactions. The Sihlpost is the post office with the longest opening hours (see below).

Dialling: Switzerland’s calling code is +41. Zurich’s code is (0)44 or (0)43. We list the country code before all telephone numbers in parentheses. Of course you only have to use this if you are dialling from abroad. If you are already in Switzerland, just ignore the (+41) prefix, dial 0 and then the nine-digit number.

SIHLPOST Zurich‘s central post office, open until late. Take a ticket and wait for your turn. QE‑11, Kasernenstrasse 97, 8Sihlpost, tel. (+41) 848 888 888. Open 06:30 - 22:30, Sat 06:30 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:30. A view across Zurich to Uetliberg and the mountains. ZIYP LANGUAGE SMARTS POLITICS The Swiss like to consider their country the home of Here are some typical Swiss German words - it will be direct democracy and citizens here are regularly asked always appreciated if you use a few Swiss words. The ‘r‘ to take a stand on national issues. The two chambers of in Swiss German is rolled, the ‘ch’ is pronounced like in parliament are (mainly) elected in a proportional voting the Scottish loch. Mind your throat. system and the seven-member government appointed Hello (formal) Grüezi (groo-e-tsi) by parliament always includes representatives of all of Goodbye (formal) Adieu (as in French) the four or five major parties. Switzerland is a federal Thank you Merci (mersi) republic consisting of 26 cantons, once sovereign states Sorry! Entschuldigung! (ent-shooldi-goong) which retain some independence and have their own Excuse me! Exgüsi! (ex-gewsi) constitutions, parliaments and governments. Bern is Switzerland D’Schwyz (t’shviiits) the capital and the seat of the parliament and the Cheers! Zum Wohl! (tsoom vol) federal authorities. Due to the understanding of political Zurich Züri (tsoori) independence many locals favour, Switzerland is not a member of the EU. 8 Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com City Basics RELIGION The Swiss are traditionally either Roman Catholic (42%) or Protestant (35%). The largest (and quite new) The best Zurich minority religious community are Muslims (4%). Zurich is traditionally Protestant, due to the ardent reformator Zwingli who put an end to partying here in the 16th has to offer century. But his grip has loosened somewhat in recent decades. in one great app SAFETY Zurich is a safe city, and in fact there is no no-go area, even for single travellers at night. Be on guard against pickpockets just as in any European city.

SMOKING The legal age for smoking is 16. Smoking in public buildings and transport is illegal. However, restaurants and bars are allowed to have a separate smoking room (fumoir).

VISAS For a stay of up to three months, many foreigners simply need a passport or an ID card to enter Switzerland. Even though not a member of the European Union, Switzerland is a member of the Schengen Agreement. As a result a Schengen visa is valid for Switzerland as well. Always check these details with a Swiss embassy or consulate.

TOURIST INFORMATION

The Tourist Information run by Zurich Tourism is conveniently located in the main hall of the main train station. This is a one-stop solution for all the information you might be missing - and much more. City Essentials For personal advice at the counter, take a ticket and wait your turn. There are some pads for you to browse and check out the many offers like tours and venues and you can pick up leaflets and a city map. But they Only our favourite places don’t just have advice, they also offer the following services. Works offl ine, incl. maps They... Free download • will book city tours and excursions • sell tickets for public transport, incl. the Swiss Travel Pass Incl. dozens of other cities • sell the Zürich Card (see p. 35 for more infos) • can make hotel reservations • also sell tickets for events and museums, souvenirs www.iyp.me/app and gift vouchers Last but not least you can always pick up the latest copy of Zurich In Your Pocket here - for free, of course. ESSENTIAL QG-11, Main hall of the main train station. Open CITY G UIDES 08:30 - 19:00, Sun 09:00 - 18:00.

facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket February – March 2018 9 History XVI Century Huldrych Zwingli, priest at the Grossmünster, was a major critic of mercenary service. But he had a lot more to say and became the initiator of the Reformation in Zurich from 1520 on. The Reformation meant an end to all frivolous behaviour - drinking, prostitution and actually most fun was forbidden or strictly regulated.

NAPOLEON CAUSES A BOTHER XVI - XVIII Century During the 16th and 17th Centuries Zurich’s wealth and influence increased. Among the intellectuals of the time were the educational reformer Heinrich Pestalozzi or the painter Johann Heinrich Füssli, whose work you’ll find today in the Kunsthaus. In 1798 Zurich lost its independence as Napoleon took over, transforming the Swiss Confederacy into the Helvetic Republic for a brief five years.

Zurich’s somewhat grim reformator Huldrych Zwingli. ZIYP RAILWAYS AND A STRIKE ROMANS AND XIX - XX Century Modern-day Switzerland was founded in 1848 as a SCHWYZERDÜÜTSCH federation. The year before, the first railway line in Switzerland 100BC - X Century was opened. Railways were the business Alfred Escher was Around 15 BC the Romans established a military base at the in. He dominated Zurich and Swiss politics for the next few site of today’s where you can find a copy of the decades. His statue can be found just in front of the main Roman tomb stone mentioning , the word from train station. Switzerland remained neutral during the First which Zurich derives. Roman rule ended around 400 AD World War and was refuge to the artists who started the and nobody really has any idea what went on in Zurich for Dada movement in Zurich. The war exacerbated the poverty the next few centuries. One change was the arrival of the of the working classes and in 1918 a socialist committee Germanic tribe of the Allemanni, who brought with them called a general strike. Many of the committee’s demands the language that was to become today’s Swiss German were later fulfilled, though not the demand for the right of (Schwyzerdüütsch). women to vote, which was not introduced until 1971!

ZURICH IN WOMEN’S HANDS THE RÉDUIT AND THE WAR XII - XIV Century XX Century In the 13th Century Zurich became an During most of the Second World War Switzerland, formally imperial city, answering only to the neutral, was totally surrounded by the Axis powers, making emperor of the Holy . it difficult to import and other goods.General Guisan Zurich was now headed by a woman - prepared for a military attack by literally hollowing out the the abbess of the Fraumünster abbey. Alps, envisaging a guerrilla war from the mountains, the so- In 1336 an uprising of Zurich’s called réduit strategy. craftsmen made the newly founded guilds the foundation of Zurich’s political structure. Many of the guild houses, still in use today, are now also restaurants like the Zunfthaus Zur ZURICH TODAY Schmiden or the Zunfthaus am Neumarkt (emblem of the XX - XXI Century guild of the shoemakers on the left). After the war Switzerland’s economy boomed and mass immigration from ZURICH GOES SWISS… Southern Europe set in, while culturally and politically Switzerland remained very AND PROTESTANT conservative. In 1968 and 1980 youth XIV - XVI Century movements clashed with police, but In 1351 Zurich joined ’Switzerland’, which had existed as a also brought new cultural life to Zurich. Today Zurich is treaty since 1291. This however didn’t stop the city waging still a major financial centre and has lost the conservative war against fellow cantons, such as against Schwyz. Soon reputation. It has become popular as a place to live for highly- the city ruled over lands around Lake Zurich and north skilled workers from across Europe. This has made the lack of all the way to the river . affordable apartments one of the major topics in Zurich today. 10 Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com Culture & Events Zurich offers a rich bouquet of culture, with its opera and ballet of (at least) European renown and a packed OPERA & BALLET programme of excellent concerts. Pop and rock stars almost always stop in Zurich when touring the continent and Zurich The Zurich Opera is a magnificent building near also has a vibrant theatre scene, but unfortunately very few the lake shore built in 1891 by Austrian architects productions in English. Ferdinand Fellner and Hermann Helmer. Check out the programme on their website. You can also buy Events are listed in the following categories: classical tickets on the opera’s webpage, by phone or at the concerts, exhibitions, shows and rock & pop concerts. ticket office on site. Plays are usually with German Within the sections it’s ordered by date. and English subtitles. The shows of the Zurich Ballet Company directed by Christian Spuck take Of course there are many more events than we can list, so we place here too.QF‑5, Opernhaus, Falkenstrasse 1, recommend www.zueritipp.ch for more information. 8Opernhaus/Stadelhofen, tel. (+41) 44 268 66 66, www.opernhaus.ch. CLASSICAL CONCERTS 06.02 19:30 » 07.03 & 08.03 19:30 » TONHALLE ZURICH CHAMBER ORCHESTRA Conductor: Ton Koopman; violin: Christian Tetzlaff. Works by Conductor: Sir ; violin: Isabelle Faust. , Giovanni Battista Viotti and Jean-Féry Rebel. Works by and .QB-8, QB-8, Tonhalle Maag, Zahnradstrasse 22, tel. (+41) 44 Tonhalle Maag, Zahnradstrasse 22, tel. (+41) 44 206 34 206 34 34, 40-125Sfr, www.tonhalle-orchester.ch. 34, 40-105Sfr, www.zko.ch. 20.03 19:30 »DELPHINE GALOU & ACCADEMIA BIZANTINA Conductor, harpsichord and organ: Ottavio Dantone; alto: Delphine Galou. Works by Giovanni Lorenzo Gregori, Alessandro Stradella, Arcangelo Corelli, Claudio Monteverdi, Nicola Antonio Porpora, et al.QB-8, Tonhalle Maag, Zahnradstrasse 22, tel. (+41) 44 206 34 34, 40- 105Sfr, www.zko.ch.

21.03 - 23.03 » TONHALLE ORCHESTRA Conductor: David Zinman; piano: Krystian Zimerman. Works by and Leonard Bernstein.QB-8, Tonhalle Maag, Zahnradstrasse 22, tel. (+41) 44 206 34 34, 40-150Sfr, www.tonhalle-orchester.ch. The Tonhalle Orchestra in action in their temporary home in Zürich West. Priska Kletterer 07.02 - 09.02 19:30» TONHALLE ORCHESTRA EXHIBITIONS - MAHLER’S SYMPHONY NO. 5 25.08 - 15.07 » DESIGN STUDIO: PROCESSES Conductor: Donald Runnicles; viola: Gilad Karni. Works by How is a chair, a lamp or even a typeface developed? How and Gustav Mahler.QB-8, Tonhalle do designers approach the design process? What kind Maag, Zahnradstrasse 22, tel. (+41) 44 206 34 34, 40- of cultural and social relevance does design have? The 125Sfr, www.tonhalle-orchester.ch. Museum für Gestaltung is launching the Design Studio as a place for active examination, where current and 15.02 19:30 » TONHALLE ORCHESTRA - historical design themes can be discussed and tested CHINESE NEW YEAR by the visitors themselves. By focusing on processes, the Conductor: Long Yu; vocals: Yi Wang; violin: Maxim museum presents the contexts in design through models, Vengerov; piano: Haochen Zhang. Works by Li Huanzhi, projects and designs and illustrates the procedures in Qigang Chen, Chen Gang, He Zhanhao and Fritz Kreisler. both design and production. Alongside objects from QB-8, Tonhalle Maag, Zahnradstrasse 22, tel. (+41) 44 the museum’s own collections, the exhibition What’s 206 34 34, 40-125Sfr, www.tonhalle-orchester.ch. Next?, which was developed in collaboration with the Zurich University of the Arts (ZHdK), offers a glimpse of 28.02 & 02.03 19:30 » the future. The integrated workshop provides visitors TONHALLE ORCHESTRA & BRETT DEAN with opportunities to explore the theme in greater Conductor & viola: Brett Dean; soprano: Mojca Erdmann; tenor: depth or to participate in designing.QA‑7, Museum Topi Lehtipuu. Works by Brett Dean and L. van Beethoven. für Gestaltung - Schaudepot, Pfingstweidstrasse QB-8, Tonhalle Maag, Zahnradstrasse 22, tel. (+41) 44 96, 8Toni-Areal, tel. (+41) 43 446 67 67, 12/8Sfr, 206 34 34, 35-95Sfr, www.tonhalle-orchester.ch. www.museum-gestaltung.ch. facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket February – March 2018 11 Culture & Events and conflicts of that time to life.QF‑10, National Museum CINEMAS (Landesmuseum), Museumstrasse 2, 8Hauptbahnhof, tel. (+41) 58 466 65 11, 10/8Sfr, www.nationalmuseum. Zurich has more than a dozen cinemas, many of ch. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. them with more than one screen and the large ones with up to 12 screens. Traditionally films in Switzerland 08.02 - 06.05 » ALICJA KWADE. LINIENLAND are shown in their original language with German and This solo exhibition by renowned sculptor and conceptual French subtitles. But the big multiplex cinemas that artist Alicja Kwade (b. 1979 in Katowice, Poland) asks a have displaced some of the smaller ones in the last number of important questions. How did the universe two decades have started to show more and more come about? What is reality? What is illusion? Do parallel movies dubbed in German. In smaller cinemas you can worlds exist? In her multimedia work, Kwade takes such still watch all movies in the original language – lots of questions as a starting point and addresses a wide range them in English of course. They are marked with the of very different phenomena and conceptual models letters Edf in the programmes (English with German from physics, philosophy and sociology, vividly translating (Deutsch) and French subtitles) - a D (capital) indicates these into her distinctive art. This results in works that are the movie is spoken in German. as sensorially poetic as they are formally stringent. For this exhibition Kwade has conceived a new, extensive CORSO installation: a walk-through grid structure, in which A four-screen multiplex at Bellevue. Screenings in the differently sized solid balls of natural stone float above the theatres holding between 120 and 750 spectators start observers’ heads in apparent weightlessness.QE‑12, Haus in the afternoon. The Corso offers comfortable and Konstruktiv, Selnaustrasse 25, 8Stauffacher, tel. (+41) modern seating. Mainly blockbuster movies in English 44 217 70 80, 16/12Sfr, www.hauskonstruktiv.ch. Open language - fetch a beer at the bar before settling down 11:00 - 17:00, Wed 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. in your seat. To call it’s 1.50Sfr per call & min.QH‑14, Theaterstrasse 10, 8Bellevue, tel. (+41) 900 556 789, www.kitag.ch.

KOSMOS Kosmos features six screens and is part of the new Europaallee district. The films shown here are so- called arthouse movies, so you can expect mostly international independent films. That said, Kosmos is much more than a cinema, as it’s also a bistro, a bar, a bookshop, a café and a club lounge spread out over three floors – a real cosmos of culture, indeed.QD‑10, Lagerstrasse 102, 8Sihlpost/HB, tel. (+41) 44 299 30 30, www.kosmos.ch. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00, bookshop 10:00 - Alicja Kwade’s sculpture Pars pro Toto. PD 22:00, bar/club Fri & Sat until 02:00. 16.02 - 25.03 » ABRAHAM CRUZVILLEGAS. RIFFRAFF AUTOCONSTRUCCIÓN: SOCIAL TISSUE, The RiffRaff is a lovely cinema with four screens just Abraham Cruzvillegas has had his works featured in a major off - arthouse movies in original language, project in the Turbine Hall of the Tate Modern (2015 - 16) which is not necessarily English, are usually on the and in extensive solo shows in the US, France and , menu. If in doubt, ask at the cashier‘s. They also have but this is the first exhibition by the Mexican artist in two bars perfect for a drink before or after the movie. Switzerland. In his sculptures and space-filling installations, QD‑9, Neugasse 57, 8Limmatplatz, tel. (+41) 44 Cruzvillegas investigates architecture as the expression 444 22 00, www.riffraff.ch. of social conditions. Cruzvillegas grew up in Ajusco, a volcanic landscape south of the Mexican capital. In the wake of a rural exodus in the 1960s, it became a centre of 02.02 - 15.04 » GOD AND THE PICTURES. makeshift, self-built housing constructed from materials DISPUTES OF THE REFORMATION found nearby, without foundations or construction At the beginning of 1519 Ulrich Zwingli came to Zurich as plans. Drawing on this experience, Cruzvillegas sees the a parish priest and initiated the Reformation in Switzerland. sculptural form as a process of transformation, action and The Reformation is still considered one of the most solidarity. Improvisation, working with found materials formative events in Swiss history. This exhibition focuses and collaborating with others all play key roles in his work. on the argument of which is the true faith and highlights QH‑13, Kunsthaus, Heimplatz 1, 8Kunsthaus, tel. the origin of a new denomination. Animated films (+41) 44 253 84 84, www.kunsthaus.ch. Open 10:00 - produced specifically for the exhibition bring the stories 18:00, Wed, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. 12 Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com Culture & Events 15.03 20:00 » GIL, NANDO E GAL SHOWS The reunion of these icons of the Música Popular Brasileira, caused a sensation in Brazil in 2017 and now they’re 27.02 - 04.03 » STOMP! coming to Europe for a few shows, including this one at Over 15 million people have already seen STOMP! the Volkshaus.QD‑11, Volkshaus, Stauffacherstrasse 60, Now this furious rhythm show is back and it can best 8Helvetiaplatz, 100/120Sfr, www.allblues.ch. be described as pure energy! Shows at 19:30, Sat 15:30 & 19:30, Sun 14:30 & 18:30.QH‑1, Theater 11, 23.03 & 24.03 20:00 » SEVEN Thurgauerstrasse 7, 8Messe/Hallenstadion, 55- Switzerland’s most successful soul singer Seven performs 95Sfr, www.stomp.ch. songs from his latest highly successful album 4Colors. QF‑13, Kaufleuten, Pelikanplatz,8 Sihlstrasse, 55Sfr, ROCK & POP CONCERTS www.allblues.ch. 05.02 » A-HA An acoustic evening with a-ha. The famous 1980s band will perform all its hits unplugged. It’s a completely new way of experiencing a-ha.QI‑1, Hallenstadion, Wallisellenstrasse 45, 8Messe/Hallenstadion, 77- 230Sfr, www.hallenstadion.ch.

12.02 20:00 » BELLE & SEBASTIAN The legendary British indie band Belle & Sebastian will bring their folk pop songs to life in Zurich. They’re on tour with their latest EP How To Solve Our Human Problems Part 2.QE‑9, X-TRA, Limmatstrasse 118, 8Limmatplatz, 49Sfr, www.x-tra.ch. Almost too cool to be true: Seven and band. PD 23.02 20:30 » ANTHONY JOSEPH Singer and performer Anthony Joseph combines the 26.03 20:00 » CHARLOTTE GAINSBOURG spoken word with Caribbean rhythms. The native of Does being the daughter of Serge Gainsbourg and Trinidad interweaves his words with percussion and Jane Birkin make life easier or more difficult? Either way, brass instruments until they become one.QB‑7, Moods, singer and actress Charlotte Gainsbourg has earned her Schiffbaustrasse 6, 8Schiffbau, tel. (+41) 44 276 80 00, recognition all on her own and doesn’t need her famous 38Sfr, www.moods.club. name anymore.QF‑13, Kaufleuten, Pelikanplatz, 8Sihlstrasse, 75/150Sfr, www.allblues.ch. What’s going on? 09.04 » TOCOTRONIC The German rock band Tocotronic is on tour with their facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket brand new record Die Unendlichkeit. These guys play straight rock with no fuss, exactly as it should be.QE‑9, X-TRA, Limmatstrasse 118, 8Limmatplatz, 48Sfr, 23.02, 24.02 20:00 » ZUCCHERO www.x-tra.ch. Zucchero is one of ’s most successful pop singers. With his mix of rock, blues and pop, he’s guaranteed to rock the stage.QB‑8, Maag Halle, Hardstrasse 219, 8Schiffbau, 99/110Sfr, www.bymaag.ch.

01.03 20:00 » SLOWDIVE The British 1990s indie rock band Slowdive has reunited and is on tour with their record Slowdive.QRote Fabrik, Seestrasse 395, 8Post , 35Sfr, www.rotefabrik.ch.

12.03 20:00 » TOTO After 35 years on stage, they’re still going strong. Toto is one of the most successful rock bands of all time and they’re celebrating the release of their greatest hits album 40 Trips Around the Sun with a big world tour. They still Hold the Line!QI‑1, Hallenstadion, Wallisellenstrasse 45, 8Messe/ Hallenstadion, 91-138Sfr, www.hallenstadion.ch. French singer and actress Charlotte Gainsbourg. PD facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket February – March 2018 13 Martin Sturzenegger, the head of Zurich Tourism. | ZIYP

Zurich’s biggest fan Martin Sturzenegger is the CEO of Zurich Tourism, the organisation that markets Zurich as a destination. He is a Zurich native and loves the city he lives in. We asked him about his favourite restaurants and bars, how he convinces travellers to choose Zurich and if there’s anything that annoys him about his city.

14 Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com Zurich people Martin, as CEO of Zurich Tourism, do you have to be So where do you take people when guests visit? Zurich’s biggest fan? Defintiely to the classic, traditional Zurich, the picturesque Ha, I don’t know if I have to be the biggest one, but yes, I old town, the churches, the lake, the river... But then there is am definitely a huge fan of Zurich. I was born here, I live the modern, urban Zurich, which also shouldn’t be missed. in the district of and I really think I ‘live’ Zurich. Just walk down the river a few minutes, and you can dive Honestly, I could not imagine being the CEO of a tourism into the urban districts of 5 and 4 with their nightlife and organisation for any other destination. Zurich is my city, I modern restaurants and the Viadukt shopping street. I can market it with all my heart. always make sure my guests get to see both sides of Zurich.

How did you become CEO of Zurich Tourism and what What’s the first thing you miss when you’re not in Zurich? does a CEO of a tourism organisation actually do? It’s that holiday feeling that I mentiuoned earlier. That’s How to become a CEO? With a lot of luck. And what do I do? something I miss when I’m in really big cities. I like the A lot of apéros. Joking aside, when Zurich Tourism began urban canyons of New York or Hong Kong, but when there looking for a new CEO, I honestly applied without knowing I also miss having the chance to hop on my mountain bike. exactly what my job would be. During the long and tough assessment process I learned what it means exactly. And And is there anything that annoys you about Zurich? the more I got to know, the more I wanted the job. Yes, the situation with cycling. For decades it’s been really tough for cyclists for example to ride by Bellevue, one of the city’s main traffic junctions. But nothing has happened and ‘In Zurich everything is easy to reach. progress is way too slow. The other annoying thing is that No endless taxi rides like in Berlin or residents have apparently become less tolerant towards urban life. It has, for example, become more difficult for New York are necessary’ restaurateurs because residents are less tolerant of noise.

So what is it that you actually do? What are your favourite restaurants? Basically I manage a private SME with roughly 100 Well, there are so many. In my district, I love The Artisan employees that markets Zurich as a destination. The with its modern approach. And I love burgers. One of the company has divisions that are completely different from best is Burgermeister, a small fast food joint that serves one another. On the one hand we have area managers excellent burgers. I often go to the Vietnamese Co Chin who travel the world promoting Zurich, while on the Chin with a cool urban atmosphere and great, fresh food. other there’s the tourist information unit here in Zurich In the centre I like Rooftop, on the top floor of the Modissa that advises visitors. There is also a marketing unit and a fashion house – an unexpected location with a special flair. strategic line of work. I also like down-to-earth places. My favourite is Köchlistube, perfect for cordon bleu and really affordable. And my all- How do you convince someone to visit Zurich? time favourite is Café Boy. For many years they’ve offered This totally depends on where someone comes from. That sensational cuisine with a great wine list. is one reason why we target our stories and messages to each respective market. I’ll give you an example. In Asia Finally, do you have any recommendations for an apéro? we position Zurich as a hub for all Switzerland - mountains Sure, in the city centre I like the classy Widder and like Rigi, Pilatus, the Rheinfall waterfalls are all Zurich Kronenhalle bars, which are top quality. But honestly attractions because you can easily reach them on a day trip. I almost prefer just having a beer in a dive bar, where all For someone from Germany, we need to tell another story, kinds of people meet. My favourite is El Lokal. In my district positioning Zurich, for example, as a food destination. Nordbrücke is my favourite. Is that what has changed the most in recent years? MARTIN STURZENEGGER Probably yes. We don’t have this one big campaign with one message anymore, but we tell lots of different stories Martin Sturzenegger has been CEO of Zurich Tourism for different audiences. But, of course, it’s very important since 2013. This private organisation has the task of that Zurich can live up to the needs we create. marketing Zurich as a destination, both in Switzerland and abroad. It’s mainly funded by the tax member What is Zurich’s biggest asset? hotels charge their customers for each night they stay With the lake, the river and the Uetliberg mountain, Zurich in Zurich (2.50Sfr). Sturzenegger was born in Zurich manages to create a sort of holiday feeling, even for and lives in the city with his wife and two kids. residents. Leisure and recreation activities are always only His favourite places: Im Viadukt (p. 43), The Artisan (p. a few steps away. Nevertheless it’s a metropolis, which we 19), Burgermeister (p. 17), Co Chin Chin (p. 16), Rooftop call a mini-metropolis. It has all the advantages of a big city (p. 16), Köchlistube (p. 24), Café Boy (p. 17), Widder bar like a well-connected airport, top restaurants, nightlife and (p. 18), Kronenhalle (p. 24), El Lokal (p. 29), Nordbrücke so on, but everything is easy to reach. No endless taxi rides (D-6, Dammstrasse 58). like in Berlin or New York are necessary. facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket February – March 2018 15 Restaurants

Zurich’s restaurateurs offer all kinds of food from simple to extravagant, like here at Widder Bar & Kitchen (see p. 18). | PD

Zurich has around 2,000 restaurants, bars and a table. Then again, you could just make a reservation to takeaways. No wonder you can find almost any kind of experience quality Asian food without any stress.QD‑9, food imaginable: from down-to-earth Swiss to traditional Gasometerstrasse 7, 8Limmatplatz, tel. (+41) 44 211 Vietnamese, from Lebanese to Japanese and back again. 99 77, www.cochinchin.ch. Open 11:00 - 14:30, 18:00 - But today many restaurants also cook in a mélange, 23:00, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. international style and are not easily categorized. €. A­ Nevertheless we have tried. We list the places we recommend within any particular category. For lunch, OOO ROOFTOP lots of restaurants offer special deals, usually considerably The Modissa fashion house on Bahnhofstrasse has a cheaper. Note that many restaurants close their kitchens restaurant with a terrace on the top floor. One of the city’s between roughly 14:00 and 17:30 and in the evening at busiest gastronomers, Michel Péclard, has taken over and 22:00 or 23:00. For the evening we recommend you book a serves Asian fusion cuisine here. The speciality is table. For more suggestions see www.zurich.inyourpocket with different fillings served on a trolley. We liked the .com. vegetarian ones especially. But whatever you order, leave room for dessert - the cakes are delicious! When ASIAN Modissa is closed, enter through the separate entrance on CO CHIN CHIN The pho... oh, the pho! This Vietnamese classic of beef broth with lots of vegetables, herbs and noodles is a treat at Co SYMBOL & PRICE KEY Chin Chin and thankfully it isn’t overly salty, so you can taste all of its varied and subtle flavours. Some lime slices A Credit cards accepted X Smoker lounge and Thai basil are also served on the side so you can add J City centre location N No credit cards as much or little as you like. The scallops cooked au gratin that we ordered as a starter were delicate and the roasted 8 Nearest tram station C‑1 Map coordinates peanuts on top gave it a little extra flavour and texture. € most mains under 25Sfr The lemongrass ice tea was too sweet for our tastes, but to €€ most mains 25-40Sfr each his own. In any event, the bistro part of this garage- €€€ most mains 40-55Sfr style venue is for walk-in customers, so if you don’t mind €€€€ most mains over 55Sfr waiting a little at the bar there’s a decent chance of getting 16 Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com Restaurants Uraniastrasse.QF‑12, Bahnhofstrasse 74, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 400 05 55, www.ooo-zh.ch. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Thu 09:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - late, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. €€. J­A­ BRUNCH Makes you happy! BURGERS Abundant brunch every Saturday and Sunday until 6 pm at JACK&JO Europaallee and Winterthur. BURGERMEISTER Burgermeister is proof that a good burger in Zurich doesn’t have to cost 25Sfr. The meat of our chili cheeseburger was tender and the spicy jalapenos added plenty of flavour without making the burger too hot. The bun, however, could have been a little firmer and the fries were just average when a hearty country cut would have been perfection. But that’s just nitpicking as the meals in general are all good value for money. No reservations are taken as this is a classic fast food joint where you place your order at the counter and wait until they call your number.QE‑9, Langstrasse 238, 8Limmatplatz, www.burger-meister.ch. Open 11:00 - 22:30, Fri 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. €. A

HELVTI DINER BELLEVUE Helvti Diner’s burger concept is simple, and that’s probably one of the reasons why it’s so successful (this is its third location in town). You can customise your burger in four steps: first you choose the meat (Swiss premium, Angus, Gustav-Gull-Platz 2, Zürich Wagyu or veggie), then the size (single or double), choose Bahnhofplatz 7, Winterthur   your add-ons like bacon, cheese or fried eggs and then jackandjo.ch decide on a sauce. Our burger was grilled medium and the meat was perfectly pink inside, just as we ordered it, but next time (and there will be a next time) we might order solid, but the beef burger was more to our taste here. some guacamole for a little extra flavour. The service was There is a huge salad bar and they do quesadillas and quick and friendly.QH‑14, St. Urbangasse 4, 8Bellevue,JEU_Zurich-in-your-Pocket_Inserat_60x90_RZ.indd breakfasts too. During the day you place 1 your orders05.01.18 at 15:22 tel. (+41) 43 500 05 35, www.helvti-diner.ch. Open 10:00 the bar, a buzzer will tell you when they’re ready to pick - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00, kitchen open until 23:00, Sun up, in the evening a waiter will serve you at your table. 22:00. €€. J ­A Popular with students and the city’s hipsters. Sat & Sun à la carte brunch until 18:00.QE‑10, Gustav-Gull-Platz 2, 8Sihlpost/HB, tel. (+41) 44 542 88 99, www. jackandjo.ch. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00, Kitchen closes daily 22:00, Sun 21:00. €. J ­A

FINE DINING CAFÉ BOY Despite the name, this is a restaurant and it’s not immature either. Just beyond Langstrasse, in a one- time working-class area, Café Boy occupies a building of Bauhaus-inspired elegance from the 1910s. Inside, white tablecloths, black bistro chairs and the immense windows set the scene. Dishes like smoked salmon Slow food meets comfort food at homey Jack & Jo. PD tatar with maize blinis or venison in a hazelnut crust get our mouths watering, and there are some tasty snacky JACK & JO (EUROPAALLEE) options as well. The chef uses many regional products, Jack & Jo is in on a perplexing new trend: fast slow food. and the fish from further afar is sustainable. The excellent Or .. is it slow fast food? Basically it’s burgers, made and copious selection of wines, as well as the teas from locally produced ingredients and home-made and cheeses all go to prove: the boy is grown.QB‑11, buns, served with handcut fries and drinks presented Kochstrasse 2, 8Lochergut, tel. (+41) 44 240 40 24, in preserving jars, all in a modern but homely styled www.cafeboy.ch. Open 11:30 - 15:00, 18:00 - 24:00. environment. The vegetarian burger with quinoa was Closed Sat, Sun. €€. A­ facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket February – March 2018 17 Restaurants NEW CHEESE RESTAURANTS WIDDER BAR & KITCHEN Widder strikes with an all-new concept: Follow the Flavour. Toni Staub’s kitchen crew have designed dishes (from starters to cocktails) around a certain flavour, such as curry, chilli or cilantro. You simply choose a couple of plates and the fun begins. The ribs we chose from the ‘smoke signs’ flavour were so soft, the meat nearly fell off the bone on its own and the smokey barbecue sauce added the desired smokey taste. The tuna tartar from the ‘basil bash’ flavour was served with a small ball of Thai basil ice cream and cucumber pearls, which were an explosion for the senses. The same can be said of the calamari, chorizo and olives istock.com from the ‘chilli caveat’ section of the menu. Five white and The Swiss cheese specialities fondue and raclette five red wines are sold by the glass here (and poured from originally come from the French-speaking areas of huge magnum bottles), but many more can of course Switzerland. Fondue is a mix of melted cheese and be ordered by the bottle. The service was attentive and white wine bubbling over a small burner which you charming without being even a little stiff, which is how we dip bread cubes into, while raclette is pure melted expect it to be these days. All in all, an excellent evening cheese which is poured over boiled potatoes. The listed from start to finish.QF‑12, Widdergasse 6, 8Rennweg, restaurants below are specialists. tel. (+41) 44 224 24 12, www.widderhotel.com. Open 11:30 - 14:00, 18:00 - 23:00, last orders 22:15. €€€. LE DÉZALEY J ­A For decades Le Dézaley has been dedicated to dishes from Vaud in western Switzerland. The fondue prepared according to a family recipe is very tasty and FRENCH also comes in a version with morel mushrooms. A LE RENDEZ-VOUS typical starter is airdried meat - or instead of fondue They really know how to charm you à la française here! The try one of the regional sausages.QG‑13, Römergasse welcome is warm, the service friendly and attentive and the 7/9, 8Helmhaus, tel. (+41) 44 251 61 29, day’s menu is written on a small blackboard and brought www.le-dezaley.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:30, 18:00 - to your table. The food is a good match too: the gazpacho 24:00. Closed Sun, kitchen until 23:00. €€. J ­A ­B we took as starter was refreshing, the a delight and the mixed fish platter (assiette de la mer) more than lived SWISS CHUCHI (HOTEL ADLER) up to the expectations. The tables here are not set as close Located in the centre of Niederdorf, the Swiss Chuchi as elsewhere. And they have outdoor seating. Definitely serves all the Swiss specialities, especially the cheesy recommended!QE‑14, Seestrasse 3, 8Tunnelstrasse, tel. ones like fondue and raclette. Try the Adler’s special (+41) 44 201 24 20, www.restaurant-le-rendez-vous.ch. blend made of four aged cheeses: very aromatic Open 10:30 - 14:00, 18:00 - 24:00. Closed Sat, Sun. €€. A­ and genuine. It’s all served in a rustic chalet-style atmosphere with the walls panelled with bright wood MÈRE CATHERINE and complete with a full-size cow to greet you from Mother Catherine’s menu majors in classics from Provence the balcony.QG‑12, Rosengasse 10, 8Rudolf-Brun- using plenty of fish, seafood, olives and rosemary. But she Brücke, tel. (+41) 44 266 96 96, www.swisschuchi.ch. also does other French classics like onion soup or snails. Open 11:30 - 23:15, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:15, kitchen Filled pasta like ravioles and cappelacci, usually home- open all day. €€. J ­A ­B made, are also standard features. The interior with uneven walls, dark tables and chequered tablecloths is pleasant WALLISER KELLER and the kitchen reliable. The tiny bar Le Philosophe next The Hotel Zürcherhof’s restaurant brings the specialities door is good for a quiet drink.QG‑13, Nägelihof 3, from the mountainous southern canton of Wallis to 8Helmhaus, tel. (+41) 44 250 59 40, www.commercio. town. There are raclette and eight different kinds of ch. Open 11:30 - 24:00, kitchen open throughout until fondues on the menu – with extras ranging from 22:15. €€. J ­A ­ pepper and garlic to goat cheese and mushrooms. Meat fondues are on offer too. We like the traditional cellar-style atmosphere with the modern touch here. GUILD HOUSES QG‑12, Zähringerstrasse 21, 8Central, tel. (+41) Zurich’s guilds or zünfte are prestigious men’s clubs today, 44 269 44 44, www.swissalpechuchi.ch. Open 11:30 and many own a handsome mediaeval or early modern - 13:30, 17:15 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 17:15 - 23:00. €€. guild house in the old town where they meet. Quite a few J ­A ­B of these guild houses are also restaurants which cultivate a traditional, refined cuisine. 18 Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com Restaurants ZUM GRÜNEN GLAS A little bit off the beaten track on the upper edge of Niederdorf, the Zum Grünen Glas offers notable Mediterranean-style cuisine in the noble atmosphere of an old guild house. The classic here is the beef tartar - it’s served either with basil and olives or Asian-style with wasabi and mango chutney. And yes, it’s very tasty. You will find fish, meat and some typical Zurich dishes like geschnetzeltes on the menu as well.QG‑13, Untere Zäune 15, 8Neumarkt, tel. (+41) 44 251 65 04, www.gruenesglas.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:00, 17:30 - 23:00, Sat 17:30 - 23:00. Closed Sun, kitchen open until 22:00. €€. J ­A ­

ZUNFTHAUS ZUR WAAG The red carpet, the crown glass windows with guild emblems The noble atmosphere of a guild house at Zum Grünen Glas. PD and the old wooden chairs give the Waag guild house on innovation. For a main course you can usually expect fish, meat Münsterplatz a distinguished atmosphere full of history. and vegetarian options and we always appreciate the casual, They serve Swiss classics and fish and meat specialities, all yet attentive service here, while the food never disappoints. If interpreted in a modern way: the cordon bleu (made with veal you order red or white wines by the glass, the waiter simply of course) came rolled and the mashed potatoes were served brings the bottle to your table. Then you can drink as much as in a small glass jar on the plate. The food and the service were you like and pay for what you’ve consumed. If only everything reliable, the local wine rich - only the mix of cheese we had else in life was as simple as this!QC‑12, Gartenhofstrasse 1, for dessert was a bit uninspired for a restaurant of this class. 8Werd, tel. (+41) 43 266 63 63, www.gartenhof.net. Open QF‑13, Münsterhof 8, 8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41) 44 216 11:30 - 14:00, 18:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 18:00 - 24:00. €€. A­ 99 66, www.zunfthaus-zur-waag.ch. Open 08:00 - 24:00, kitchen open 11:30 - 14:00, 18:00 - 22:00. €€€. J ­A ­ THE ARTISAN The Artisan has made a name for itself in the district of Wipkingen and rightly so. The poussin (Cornish game hen) INTERNATIONAL from the charcoal grill we had was lovely and the added BLOCKHUS ginger gave it a nice twist. The same can be said of the The rustic and solid Blockhus is an institution in the old town. quinoa pasta. The green plants hanging from the ceiling The menu features a weird, but friendly confusion of Spanish, aren’t just for show, but rather a hint that the cuisine served Swiss, Italian and even Thai dishes. One of the specialities of the here is made with fresh, local ingredients and vegetables. house is the tartar, served in many variations. We really loved The only complaint we had was that despite having a the spicy one with garlic and hot peppers. Locals and tourists reservation, the only seats available were at the bar. In fact, are equally present here - usually a fair indicator for a good given the crowds of people waiting at the bar, it seems that restaurant.QG‑14, Schifflände 4, 8Bellevue, tel. (+41) overbooking is standard practice here. That said, most of the 44 252 14 53, www.restaurant-blockhus.ch. Open 11:30 - hipsters didn’t seem to mind as it’s all about the cuisine here. 23:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 11:30 - 24:00. Closed Sun. €€. J ­A ­ The children playing in their very own kids’ corner certainly didn’t care.QNordbrücke 4, 8Laubiweg, tel. (+41) 44 GARTENHOF 501 35 71, www.theartisan.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:00, 18:00 This is an honest, straightforward restaurant with no frills - 23:00, Tue 18:00 - 23:00, Fri 11:30 - 14:00, 18:00 - 24:00, whatsoever. Its ever-changing menu offers solid fare with some Sat 18:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. A­

THE CLASSIC ITALIAN RESTAURANT

facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket February – March 2018 19 Restaurants VEGETARIAN & VEGAN ITALIAN COMMERCIO MARKTKÜCHE While the heyday of Italian cinema may be over, this Purely vegan, a contemporary interior and definitely fine- small ristorante brings cinema and italianità together in dining: the Marktküche convinced us even before the the most charming way. It stays lively well into the night, actual meal – e.g. with the selection of bread and spreads thanks also to the visitors of the Arthouse studio cinemas and an hors-d’oeuvre. The house tartar, served under a right next door. Surrounded by Art Deco elements, glass bell and a veil of smoke or the wonderfully delicate guests squeeze into the slightly tight seats to enjoy a ravioli were equally testimony to the kitchen team’s skills. plate of pasta, something the Commercio has got off to QC‑10, Feldstrasse 98, 8Bäckeranlage, tel. (+41) 44 a fine art.QH‑14, Mühlebachstrasse 2, 8Stadelhofen, 211 22 11, www.marktkueche.ch. Open 17:30 - 23:30, tel. (+41) 44 250 59 30, www.commercio.ch. Open Sat 17:00 - 23:30. Closed Mon, Sun. €€. A 11:00 - 24:00, kitchen open throughout until 23:00. €€. J ­A ­ TIBITS The bounteous vegetarian buffet is the focal point of tibits - where everybody queues up to choose from around 40 home-made salads, hot daily specials, soups, sandwiches and sweets. It’s more than plain tasty, believe us. tibits is very popular for lunch, dinner or coffee with all kinds of people. Sister restaurant ‘tibits im NZZ bistro’ around the corner at Falkenstrasse 12, (+41) 44 260 32 12 (Open 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00).QH‑15, Seefeldstrasse 2, 8Opernhaus, tel. (+41) 44 260 32 22, www.tibits.ch. Open 06:30 - 23:30, Fri 06:30 - 24:00, Sat 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:30, Food served until 30 min before closing. (buffet, 4.20Sfr (take away 3.70Sfr) per 100 grams). J ­A ­B ­S

The miso ramen at Mikki Ramen sure is tasty. ZIYP W DA MICHELANGELO GETTING THE BEST This ristorante is real Italian: it’s big, it’s loud, the light is a little too bright and the pizzas out of the wood-fire OUT OF FRUIT oven are just delicious. But we don’t just recommend the AND VEGETABLES. pizzas: the pasta at Michelangelo’s is good and portions are generous. Families, couples, and big groups come here for the family feel, the hustle and bustle and the cheap down-to-earth Italian food. Off the beaten tourist track, but well worth the effort.QA‑12, Gertrudstrasse 37, 8Lochergut, tel. (+41) 44 451 32 31, www.da- michelangelo.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:00, 18:00 - 23:30, Mon 11:30 - 14:00, Sat 18:00 - 23:30. Closed Sun, Kitchen open until 22:30. €€. A

TOTÒ The Totò is an Italian restaurant, a casual bar and a café all in one. The big oval lamps, the leather seats and the high room give the place a certain elegance. For food they serve freshly made pasta, pizza, some seafood as well as meat dishes. All quite simple but really good - just the typical

Vegetarian & Vegan Restaurant Italian way. We don’t really have to mention they also have Bar Take Away Catering a well assorted wine list, right?QI‑16, Seefeldstrasse Seefeldstr.2|Falkenstr.12 next to the Opera House, Zurich 124, 8Höschgasse, tel. (+41) 43 443 00 80, www.tibits.ch|www.tibits.co.uk www.ristorante-toto.ch. Open 07:30 - 24:00, Thu, Fri 07:30 - 01:00, Sat 09:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. €€. A­

20 Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com

287.5AA.008.W Inserat Dachkampagne In Your Pocket Zürich 60X9018.09.15 CO_e.indd 13:08 1 Restaurants JAPANESE NEW MIKI RAMEN Miki Ramen is an adorable, simply decorated small venue where the Japanese ramen noodles are homemade and pleasantly firm. The broth of our miso ramen was flavourful and salty and the extra egg and TAKE AWAY spring onions weren’t just there for decoration. You can sit on small tables or on a kind of bar directly facing HAVE YOUR FAVORITE WITH YOU the kitchen, where you can watch how your meal is prepared. For lunch you might have to queue, but in the evening it takes reservations.QB‑11, Sihlfeldstrasse 63, 8Lochergut, tel. (+41) 44 450 37 76, www.miki-ramen.ch. Open 11:45 - 14:30, 18:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 -23:00, Sun 18:00 - 23:00, kitchen closes 14:00 & 23:00. €. A­

SORA SUSHI This Sushi place is located in the main building of the main train station (towards Bahnhofstrasse). The plain interior design and the calm Japanese sounds in the background make for a very relaxing atmosphere. The AT THE CENTRAL STATION sushi creations on the kaiten conveyor belt come in four ZURICH price categories and feature freshly made classic sushi, sashimi and maki creations. We were pleased with taste 044 217 15 10 and quality - as well as with the plum wine that went www.sora-sushi.ch on the house. Sat & Sun all you can eat for 59Sfr.QF‑11, Bahnhofplatz 15, 8Hauptbahnhof, tel. (+41) 44 217 15 10, www.sora-sushi.ch. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 23:00, kaiten (conveyor belt) runs 11:00 - of sake and some sake cocktails available at the bar or, 14:00, 17:00 - 21:30 (Sun all day). €€. J ­A ­ if you’re a sake newbie like us, a taster set with three different sakes can also be had. Other locations: Bellevue (St. Urbangasse 8), Langstrasse district (Josefstrasse 112), (Seefeldstrasse 115).QF‑14, Beethovenstrasse 32, 8Stockerstrasse, tel. (+41) 44 578 17 07, www. yoojis.com. Open 11:00 - 23:00. Closed Sat, Sun. €€. J ­A

MEDITERRANEAN CLOUDS Well, this is what we call a view! On the top floor of the Prime Tower you can gaze onto the whole city while having dinner or sipping on a cocktail. By choosing the Kitchen restaurant, the bistro or the bar, you also choose the part of the city you’ll be able to see. If you’re in Zurich West, at least go up for a quick drink! You can always get a tasty bite at the bistro, no matter the time of day. The restaurant Choose Japanese delicacies from the kaiten at Sora Sushi. PD serves perfectly executed meat and fish classics, some of YOOJI’S DREIKÖNIG them prepared in the open kitchen. There are vegetarian No matter if you prefer your sushi as a pleasant dinner options too. For the restaurant book a table in advance. at a table, a quick meal at the bar, as takeaway or from a QB‑8, Maagplatz 5, 8Schiffbau, tel. (+41) 44 404 30 kaiten (conveyor belt), the six Yooji’s locations in Zurich 00, www.clouds.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:00, 18:00 - 22:00, Fri all serve good Japanese food. This one has an extended 11:30 - 14:00, 18:00 - 22:30, Sat 18:30 - 22:30, Sun 10:00 kaiten section, allowing you to sit face to face while - 15:00 (brunch), 18:30 - 22:00, bistro open 09:00 - 23:00, the conveyor belt delivers your sushi. We enjoyed the Fri 09:00 - 01:00, Sat 10:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00, bar friendly table service having chosen the mixed sushi-oke open 16:00 - 24:00, Fri & Sat 16:00 - 02:00, Mon & Sun platter and had no regrets. There’s also a large selection closed. (3 course deal around 90Sfr) €€€€. A facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket February – March 2018 21 Restaurants ORIENTAL BEBEK What the Swiss like to eat at home and when out is This restaurant is an architectural mezze platter: concrete ­heavily influenced by their neighbours’ cuisine, especially walls, mosaic floors, high ceilings, chandeliers and a peek- the Italians. But what is real Swiss cuisine? Most Swiss through window to the neighbouring tram shed. We love would probably say: käsefondue (cheese fondue), a hot the mix of concrete and orient. The menu is dominated soup of cheese and white wine eaten by dunking cubes of by food from Lebanon, Greece and . We tried the bread in it. Delicious, but the smell can take getting used all-you-can-eat mezze platter - and loved what we got: to. Raclette is another cheese speciality, melted cheese on skewers of chicken and köfte, tabouleh, tzatziki mousaka potatoes served with different pickles and sides. Würste and much more, everything was excellent. You can also or sausages are also very Swiss, the bratwurst (usually order the different mezze as small portions. The service is veal) and cervelat (pork) being the most common. Züri a bit nonchalant, but friendly.QB‑12, Badenerstrasse 171, gschnätzlets is a traditional Zurich dish, thin strips of veal 8Kalkbreite, tel. (+41) 44 297 11 00, www.bebek.ch. cooked in a cream sauce, often with mushrooms. This is Open 07:00 - 24:00, Fri 07:00 - 01:00, Sat 08:00 - 01:00, often served with rösti, a cake of fried grated potatoes, Sun 08:00 - 24:00, kitchen open throughout until 23:00. a bit like Spanish tortilla but also on the list of Swiss €€. A­ traditionals. Switzerland also has an impressive range of breads to go with the cheeses, e.g. the rich zopf (plaited loaf) is a favourite for Sunday breakfasts. Fondue chinoise and fondue bourgignonne are not traditionally Swiss, strictly speaking, but these two meat fondues are very popular too. Both involve dipping meat into a pot, full of either hot broth (chinoise) or oil (bourgignonne) and then enjoying with a range of sauces and sides.

LES HALLES This garage-style restaurant offers mostly organic food from around the Mediterranean with a particularly French touch. The ever fresh moules et frites (mussels with French fries) are what a lot of people come here for, or the tasty beef tartar. The restaurant works like a market hall: you place your order at the kitchen corner and it‘s served to The lively, yet laid-back bustle at Les Halles. Zurich Tourism your table. It’s always very busy and loud - so come here rather for the outstanding fresh food and the industrial style than for a quiet evening with your significant other. There is STEAKS & BARBECUE also a delicatessen in the back.QB‑8, Pfingstweidstrasse NEW 6, 8Schiffbau, tel. (+41) 44 273 11 25, www.les-halles COCO .ch. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Thu 11:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 Our evening at Coco was a real blast, and we’re not just - 02:00. Closed Sun, kitchen open until 13:45/22:00, Sat talking about the food. They serve a surprise menu here, 18:00 - 22:00, snacks & tapas througout. €€. A­ so all you have to choose is the main course (usually different cuts of meat or whole fish), which is cooked on the charcoal grill. Our menu consisted of small pieces of MEXICAN tuna served three different ways to start (the breaded EL LUCHADOR and fried morsel was exceptional), followed by a lamb Oh, the ceviche! The pungent cocktail of fish, chilli, coriander chop that was sheer perfection. But before we made it and lime juice is reason enough to visit El Luchador. But to the meat, a basket full of fresh raw vegetables like the other dishes on the small menu are full of flavour too. cucumbers and carrots arrived at our table and we happily Soft maize tacos are the mainstay, with shrimps, meat or dipped them in the accompanying sauces. That said, the vegetables and always served with four freshly made sauces highlight was the local beef, perfectly grilled and served - add as you wish. Quite low-key, this is a great place for a with creamy Béarnaise. The chocolate cake with vanilla few beers and no one will mind if the sauce doesn’t stay sauce was the so-called icing on the cake. We’d also be in the tacos. You might walk in on one of their occasional remiss if we didn’t mention the extraordinary service short film nights, or enjoy leafing throughThe New Yorker and although this incredible experience doesn’t come or Rolling Stone magazines.QE‑10, Konradstrasse 69, cheap, we’re sure that we’ll be stopping by again.QF‑13, 8Museum für Gestaltung, tel. (+41) 44 271 72 00, Bleicherweg 1A, 8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41) 44 211 98 98, www.elluchador.ch. Open 17:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - www.restaurant-coco.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:30, 18:30 01:00. Closed Sun, Kitchen open 18:00 - 22:30. (8 - 19Sfr, - 24:00, Sat 18:00 - 00:30, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. €€€€. reckon three or more dishes for a full meal). A­ J ­A ­ 22 Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com Restaurants METZG Metzg is a butcher shop and a restaurant in one. It specialises in local meat, be it beef, pork, lamb or local game. By day the restaurant operates as a takeaway for sandwiches and the like, but in the evening it’s a lovely, cosy restaurant with table service. After perusing the small, yet ever-changing menu, we chose the pork heart with fennel to start, which was excellent. But what really sold us on this place was the Angus beef steak, which was tender and perfectly grilled - a real treat. The accompanying selection of baked beetroot and a whole head of garlic perfectly complemented the meal. All in all a great experience with personal service and a setting that could just as well be your family’s kitchen. Recommended. Coco: homey atmosphere, excellent food. PD QC‑11, Langstrasse 31, 8Helvetiaplatz, tel. (+41) 44 291 00 88, www.metzg-grill.ch. Open 11:00 - 24:00. EICHHÖRNLI Closed Mon, Sun. €€. A­ The small and friendly ‘squirrel’ is often full (especially on the weekends), and we understand why. It’s the sort of place where the staff like to have a chat and make you feel SWISS at home very quickly. There are many Swiss, French and As it’s sometimes to tell what Swiss cuisine really is Italian standards on the menu, like veal’s liver with sage, (see box Swiss cuisine), we list some traditional restaurants entrecôte café de paris or safron risotto, some with a twist here as well as some that interpret Swissness in a modern to them. They don’t make a big fuss here, they just serve way. If you want to try the Swiss cheese specialities fondue good food and there’s a good selection of Swiss wines on and raclette, see the box on p. 18. We list the traditional the wine list.QC‑10, Nietengasse 16, 8Helvetiaplatz, Zurich beer halls in a separate category overleaf. They serve tel. (+41) 44 241 11 28, www.restaurant-eichhoernli.ch. generous helpings of earthy local food - definitely not a Open 12:00 - 14:00, 18:30 - 23:30, Sat 18:30 - 23:30. bad way to explore Swiss cuisine either. Closed Mon, Sun, kitchen until 22:00. €€. A­

NEW GAMPER BEDERHOF The menu at the small and stylish Gamper usually only Bederhof is a pleasant neighbourhood restaurant with features a few dishes as everything here is reduced to the a rustic flair not too far from the Sihlcity shopping mall. basics. And that’s definitely a good thing. The sweetbread For lunch you can always get an affordable meal served with onion compote was a delight for the taste buds and from the wagon – we had a tender piece of chicken the same can be said of the egg with gorgonzola, our other with a mix of potatoes and vegetables. The Caesar salad starter. The cheese was nearly a foam and tasted heavenly, was also quite good as the chicken breast was fried to while the local asparagus main course arrived crisp, just perfection and the bacon on top was crispy, but not as we like it, and smothered in hollandaise sauce. The overdone, just the way we like it. Swiss and local Zurich rhubarb mixed with a kind of meringue was the perfect classics such as Geschnetzeltes with Rösti (bite-sized finish to a delightful meal and the service was professional veal pieces and hash browns) and Cordon Bleu can and attentive. The young team at Gamper certainly also be ordered à la carte.QD‑15, Brandschenkestr. knows how to cook. No reservations possible.QC‑10, 177, 8Waffenplatzstrasse, tel. (+41) 44 285 15 00, Nietengasse 1, 8Bäckeranlage, tel. (+41) 44 221 11 77, www.bederhof.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:00, 18:30 - 24:00, www.gamper-restaurant.ch. Open 18:00 - 24:00. Closed Sat 18:30 - 24:00. Closed Sun. €€. Mon, Tue, Sun. €€. A­

Mediterranean bar/restaurant/market hall, located at the heart of the culture and night-life district of Zurich West. Reservations: 044-273 11 25 or www.les-halles.ch

facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket February – March 2018 23 Restaurants KRONENHALLE BEIZEN The Kronenhalle is Zurich’s most legendary restaurant: top bankers, artists, authors, editors-in-chief and celebrities The Swiss equivalent to the British pub is probably the come to the famous brasserie on Bellevueplatz as well as a beiz or spunte. Here they serve cheap and hearty food mix of (well-dressed) ordinary people. Lots of dark wood and and big beers in an unpretentious atmosphere. You can original paintings by Mirò and Picasso on the walls give the usually recognize a beiz by its simple menu, the waiters brasserie its classic, yet old-fashioned look. The food (schnitzel of rough charm and tables occupied by guys playing with cucumber salad, bouillon with liver dumplings) is good cards, which is called jassen. to be sure, if a bit pricey, but many people simply come here to see and be seen. There is a salon for private dinners and a HORNEGG cocktail bar.QG‑14, Rämistrasse 4, 8Bellevue, tel. (+41) In the Seefeld district, this place serves traditional, 44 262 99 00, www.kronenhalle.com. Open 12:00 - 24:00, down-to-earth Swiss food. Come here for the great kitchen open until 23:15. €€€€. J ­A ­X cordon bleu - or go for the käseschnitte, a slice of bread with tomatoes, ham and cheese browned in the oven. QSeefeldstrasse 201, 8Bahnhof Tiefenbrunnen, tel. (+41) 44 422 41 40, www.restaurant-hornegg. ch. Open 08:30 - 24:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.

KÖCHLISTUBE If some solid traditional Swiss food and olden-style local charm is what you’re after, this small district tavern is worth heading for. The cordon bleu (pork) for exmaple is tender, tasty and huge. The guests here are mostly locals from the district, some come just to drink beer and play cards - jassen. And try the coffee Köchli. There’s some rocket fuel in there!QC‑12, Köchlistrasse 6, 8Bezirksgebäude, tel. (+41) 44 242 80 68. Sat & Dining below Picassos and Miròs at Kronenhalle. PD Sun closed. MOHRENKOPF This is a pleasant place in plain style for Swiss fare, coffee and snacks or breakfast in the Niederdorf area, frequented by tourists and locals alike. The menu offers classics like chalbsgschnäzlets (veal in bite-size pieces) with rösti (hash browns) as well as more unusual dishes like capuns, an Alpine speciality of sausage and wrapped in chard leaves. Try them, they’re a treat. If you fancy a sweet to round off the meal, try a mohrenkopf, a chocolate Offers hearty traditional Swiss cuisine covered marshmallow that gave the restaurant its name. QG‑12, Niederdorfstrasse 31, 8Rudolf-Brun-Brücke, at affordable prices. Centrally located tel. (+41) 44 262 05 45, www.mohrenkopf.info. Open on Bahnhofstrasse at Paradeplatz. 07:00 - 23:00, Sat 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 18:00, kitchen open non-stop until 22:00. €€. J­A­

WIRTSCHAFT IM FRANZ If a long menu makes you nervous, Wirtschaft im Franz might just be the alternative you’ve been looking for as only a handful of dishes are available here for each course. It’s that simple and we were pleasantly surprised to discover that there are nearly as many imaginative vegetarian options as there are meat and fish dishes. Wooden tables, cyan-coloured walls and deep black chairs make for a relaxed atmosphere in this courtyard building where the food is seasonal and of local origin. Some offerings can even be described as daring, yet the quality is consistently extraordinary. The service is also outstanding, and can best be summed up as casual, open daily 11.30–23.00 yet attentive. Recommended.QB‑12, Bremgartnerstrasse for reservations +41 (0) 44 220 15 15 18, 8Bahnhof , tel. (+41) 43 558 44 22, www.zeughauskeller.ch www.wirtschaftimfranz.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:00, 18:00 - 24:00, Sat 18:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon, Sun. €€€. A­ 24 Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com Restaurants ZEUGHAUSKELLER The Zeughauskeller (the arsenal) is situated in a mediaeval arsenal right on Bahnhofstrasse and serves good solid traditional Swiss fare: generous helpings of meat, sausages, schnitzel and roast. Popular with tourists, locals and lads out for the night, it’s a place where it’s easy to get to know people, as you share the big tables with other guests. Old military devices standing around are there to remind you where you are. So don’t get too drunk, or you might end up getting conscripted.QF‑13, Bahnhofstrasse 28a, 8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41) 44 220 15 15, www.zeughauskeller.ch. Open 11:30 - 23:00, Kitchen open until 22:00. €. J­A­

BEER HALLS Neoclassic arches and lots of beer: Brasserie Federal. PD RHEINFELDER BIERHALLE The Rheinfelder is one of the oldest beer halls in town: a place where workers, students, and business men alike go for the BRASSERIE FEDERAL big portions, good prices and traditional down-to-earth food This is a beer lover’s paradise: More than 100 different - and lots of beer of course. The waiters have a rough charm, Swiss beers are sold in this huge hall situated inside the but usually serve the desired dishes quickly: schweinsleberli main train station. You can try seven at one blow: for (pork liver), bratwurst, kidney, rösti or chnöpfli (small ball- 10.50Sfr the waiter will serve you seven beers from the shaped noodles). If in doubt go for the jumbo-jumbo cordon tap in small glasses (1dl). Food is Swiss-style, hearty and bleu that the Rheinfelder is famous for. But beware: the served fast: pasta with minced meat, bratwurst or rösti waitress will poke fun at you if you can’t take this piece of with bacon and raclette cheese.QF‑11, Bahnhofplatz meat the size of an elephant’s ear.QG‑11, Niederdorfstrasse 15, 8Hauptbahnhof, tel. (+41) 44 217 15 15, www. 76, 8Central, tel. (+41) 44 251 54 64, www.rheinfelder. brasserie-federal.ch. Open 11:00 - 24:00, kitchen open ch. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Kitchen open until 23:15. €. J ­A ­ until 22:30. €. J ­A

since 1981 continuing a tradition niederdorfstrasse — 8001 31 zürich www.mohrenkopf.info

facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket February – March 2018 25 Cafés Cafés in Zurich generally serve coffee Italian style (from for a drink at any time of day.QG‑12, Niederdorfstrasse 1, ristretto to cappuccino) and many draw on the rich Swiss 8Rathaus, tel. (+41) 44 251 54 54, www.cafe-henrici.ch. tradition of pastry and chocolate making. But there is Open 08:00 - 23:00, Mon 08:00 - 22:00, Fri 08:00 - 24:00, no fixed definition of a café, most also serve alcoholic Sat 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. J­A­ beverages, other snacks or even full meals and many double as bars in the evening rather than closing. ODEON A coffee house of international fame on Bellevue: Lenin, BERNHARD BAR CAFE James Joyce and Albert Einstein are all said to have been Decorated with stage props from the adjoining theatre of regulars in the more than hundred years of Odeon history. the same name, not to mention the opera (take a look at Even though this gran café has been scaled down to half its the operating room lamp over the bar), Bernhard is a snug initial size, it’s still more than worth a visit: the Art Nouveau place for a coffee break with some snacks or possibly even architecture has been preserved and the high room with lunch or dinner. Try its Flammkuchen (thin Alsatian pizza), its chandeliers still breaths grandeur. Daily menus, outside especially our favourite with four different kinds of cheeses. seating and a kitchen that works until one hour before (the A daily, ever-changing menu is available for lunch and late) closing time keep the Odeon popular with all kinds of dinner and it also serves desserts including the unexpected people.QG‑14, 2, 8Bellevue, tel. (+41) 44 combination of a carrot cake with chocolate cream, which 251 16 50, www.odeon.ch. Open 07:00 - 24:00, Fri 07:00 we loved. When the theatre breaks for intermission the - 02:00, Sat 09:00 - 02:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00, food served place is abuzz with the lively conversations of culture until one hour before closing time. J­ aficionados.QH‑15, Sechseläutenplatz 1, 8Opernhaus, tel. (+41) 44 268 64 64, www.belcanto.ch. Open 11:00 - PÉCLARD IM SCHOBER 24:00. J­A­ What looks from outside like a small, simple pastry shop is in fact one of the city’s oldest coffeehouses. It’s very busy, especially on weekends. Get a seat on one of the tables scattered over the various storeys of this old- town-house and let the waiter serve you coffee or a hot chocolate together with one of the sweet sins you can choose from the display cabinet by the entrance. Though it‘s not run by the Schober family anymore, stepping in here is a little trip back in time to the belle epoque.QG‑13, Napfgasse 4, 8Rathaus, tel. (+41) 44 251 51 50, www.peclard-zurich.ch. Open 08:00 - 19:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 19:00. J­A­ BREAKFAST The cosy feel of a backpackers’ paradise: Henrici. PD Sunday breakfast is an institution in many Swiss CAFÉ DES AMIS families. Zopf is one of the mainstays of Swiss breakfasts, Not too far from Limmatplatz and still within the reach a rich white bread baked in the shape of a braid, which of a Zurich visitor, the Café des Amis is a relaxed place for is served with butter, jam, honey, cheeses or cold breakfast on weekdays or a long brunch on the weekend. meats. Swiss bakeries bake a huge variety of breads - It is popular with urbanistas of all ages, much in contrary to rye bread, corn bread or potato-and-walnut bread to the many venues that tried their luck before at this location. name just a few - which add to the breakfast spread. In the evening it’s a venue for chilling with a drink at the Buttery croissants, called gipfeli in Swiss German, are bar.QF‑7, Nordstrasse 88, 8Limmatplatz, tel. (+41) also a favourite. Another breakfast dish with strong 43 536 93 81, www.desamis.ch. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sat roots in Switzerland is müesli, made of oat flakes, grated 09:00 -24:00, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. A apple, ground hazelnuts and yogurt in the classic birchermüesli version. HENRICI With the colourful jumble of tables and chairs, local Here are some of our favourite breakfast places: graffiti art on the wall and its young staff, the Henrici has the cosy feel of a backpacker’s paradise. The wide PÉCLARD IM SCHOBER, an almost epic breakfast range of food and drinks is crowned by the outstanding menu, from modest offerings to prosecco and coffee. Apart from the classics like cappuccino or omelettes. All day, every day (see above). espresso, there are iced coffees, coffee cocktails and a HENRICI, simple breakfast on weekdyas, such as selection of special blends. Foodwise they offer quiches croissants, bread and jam, yogurt bowls or baked eggs. and flammkuchen, a kind of Alsacian pizza with sour On Sundays fried eggs and omelettes are also available cream topping, among cookies and cakes from the in- (see left). house bakery. And as café and bar, it’s a good place 26 Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com Nightlife Zurich’s nightlife offers classy clubs, casual and alternative bars, as well as live-music venues and strip clubs. On the SYMBOL KEY weekend people from almost half of Switzerland come to the city to have a good time. The main nightlife areas are A Credit cards accepted N No credit cards Niederdorf in the old town (G-11/13), the streets around Langstrasse (C/D-10/11) and Zurich West (B/C-7/8). There E Concerts K Restaurant is a lively club scene - but with dozens of bars around, bar- J City centre location hopping can be just as much fun. A night out in Zurich can be great, but quite expensive. Most venues take credit X Separate smoker’s lounge cards, but if you’re heading for bars and clubs have some cash handy. If you prefer it on the quiet side, there are wine and cocktail bars in the old town and around Paradeplatz. NEW Check out our listings. For more recommendations check OSKAR KOWALSKI www.zurich.inyourpocket.com. The Oskar Kowalski bar and café lies just off Bahnhofstrasse, close to the main train station. The interior of light walls and brown leather seats is a little too plain for our liking, but that’s probably just how the young and fashionable city centre crowd that frequents this place prefers it. In the evening it serves anything from long drinks to cocktails, while during the daytime the focus is more on coffee, cappuccino, cake and the like. A daily special is, however, available as well tapas and club sandwiches or burgers in the evening.QF‑11, Schützengasse 4, 8Bahnhofstrasse / HB, tel. (+41) 43 344 82 85, www.oskar-kowalski.ch. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Mon, Tue 08:00 - 23:00, Sat 10:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. J ­A

Almost art: neon lights behind the bar at Sacchi. PD NEW SACCHI With more and more bars and restaurants springing up CASUAL BARS all the time, the area around Lochergut (B-11) has been NEW transformed into an extension of the legendary Langtsrasse DER KERN nightlife district. A small Italian-style bar, Sacchi specialises Two things immediately catch your eye at Kern. The first are in different varieties of the Negroni cocktail (gin, vermouth dozens, if not hundreds, of music cassettes (some of you rosso and Campari) and natural wines, but of course beer might still remember what they look like) glued to the wall, and other classic bar drinks are also available. Owner creating some of the coolest wallpaper we’ve ever seen. The Claudio Sacchi shoots these cocktails with a beverage second is the big aquarium full of colourful fish serving as a pistol into your glass himself, as he pre-mixed them earlier. wall behind the bar. This is definitely one of the cooler bar In short, Zurich’s cool nightlife crowd claimed this place backgrounds we’ve seen so far, even if the marine creatures right away as its own and not just because of the stylish have no say in whether or not they feel like hanging out Italian interior.QB‑11, Bertastrasse 1, 8Lochergut, with all of the revellers here each night. The place is usually www.sacchi.bar. Open 17:000 - 24:00, Thu 17:00 - 01:00, abuzz with 20-somethings and even some folks who’ve Fri, Sat 17:00 - 02:00, Sun 17:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon. A made it past 30 and although DJs occasionally spice things up, dancing is rarely on the agenda here. But a simple bar night can be good fun, too.QD‑11, Hohlstrasse 48, The best kept secret in 8Helvetiaplatz, www.derkern.info. Open 18:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 03:00. Closed Mon, Sun. A Zurich's historic town centre

LE PHILOSOPHE You don’t have to be a philosopher to find this bar enjoyable - if you love cocktails that will do. Come here for a chat with friends - or to get in contact with strangers. The tiny size of Le Philosophe makes it easy to get in touch with others. If you lack a chat topic the barkeeper‘s music taste might be something to talk about. Or order some tartar buns from the neighbouring sister restaurant Mère Catherine.QG‑13, Nägelihof 3 | CH-8001 Zurich | commercio.ch Nägelihof 3, 8Helmhaus, tel. (+41) 44 250 59 40, www. Limmatquai near the Grossmünster commercio.ch. Open 11:00 - 24:00. JA facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket February – March 2018 27 Nightlife CRAFT BEER BARS ELDORADO This eldorado is one for beer experts. At this cool joint they have 101 different beers for sale, many of them craft beers from small breweries from Switzerland and around the world. There are many specialities, for example from Belgium, some of which seem more in the champagne league. If you want to drink your way through the whole beer list, you can become an El Dorado. But you might need more than one evening. Ask the barmen for your personal card. Occasional concerts.QE‑9, Limmatstrasse 109, 8M-7, tel. (+41) 43 540 90 31, www.eldorado-zh. ch. Open 17:00 - 24:00, Wed, Thu 17:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. A ­E

THE ALEHOUSE The calm before the storm at Eldorado. PD With 21 different craft beers on draught and on the hand pump, Alehouse is one of the best-stocked bars of its side straight to the top. Up there, try to get a table at the genre in town. You’re guaranteed to find a brew that suits window, order a cocktail at the bar and take in the view you here, be it a hoppy IPA, a Belgian amber or perhaps a of Zurich’s old town with the lake and the Alps in the chocolate stout. A good number of the beers on offer also background. For lunch they serve soups, salads, seafood happen to be local, but you’ll find a complete list of what’s and meat from the Brasserie Lipp, in the evening it’s a currently available on its website. The bartender is usually bar only.QF‑12, Uraniastrasse 9, 8Rennweg, tel. happy to give you a taster before ordering and the pub-like (+41) 43 888 66 66, www.jules-verne.ch. Open 11:30 - atmosphere is a favourite of students and expats, many of 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:30 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. JA whom speak English. If you feel the need to strap on the old feedbag, they also do classic bar fare like burgers, fish NIETTURM and chips, chicken and salads.QH‑10, Universitätstrasse What a view! This classy cocktail bar situated in the top 23, 8ETH/Universitätsspital, tel. (+41) 44 542 87 45, two floors of a glass tower above the Schiffbau (an old www.alehouse.ch. Open 08:30 - 24:00, Sat 11:30 - 24:00, industrial hall which now contains the city‘s main theatre Sun 11:30 - 17:00. JA­ stage) offers panoramic view over Zurich West. You enter the bar with an elevator from the main hall of the Schiffbau. Enjoy the fall of night sitting on one of the red stools CLASSY BARS nipping on a gin fizz, a caipirinha or one of the many single JULES VERNE PANORAMA BAR (BRASSERIE LIPP) malts on the menu. A large bar and a stylish fireplace can Located in the same tower as the Urania observatory be found on the second floor.QB‑7, Schiffbaustrasse 4, close to Bahnhofstrasse, the Jules Verne bar boasts a 8Schiffbau, tel. (+41) 44 258 70 77, www.nietturm.ch. spectacular view over Zurich’s city centre. Enter the Open 17:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 02:00. Closed Mon, Brasserie Lipp and take the elevator on the right hand Sun. A

COCKTAIL BARS CASINO BRICK SWISS CASINOS ZÜRICH Cocktails, cocktails and more cocktails. Over the last couple More than 350 slot machines and the table games of years cocktail bars have sprouted up all over the city roulette, black jack, punto banco and texas hold’em and we’re not talking about bars with standard cocktail poker on two floors make this casino the largest in lists, but rather creative ‘mixologists’ using kitchen herbs Switzerland. The stakes on the table games set in and the like to make their drinks. Brick is exactly one of at 2 Sfr – with practically no upper limit. For your this genre on Langstrasse and the drinks in this industrial- physical well-being there are two bars and a lounge. style venue are daring and often come with a show. Watch The casino also has a smoker’s section. To get access some rosemary get roasted in front of your eyes before it’s you need to be at least 18 years old, well dressed and added to your drink or simply admire the absinthe cocktail have a valid ID card or passport with you. The entrance which is served in an antique distilling apparatus spewing fee is 10 CHF after 19:00.QE‑12, Gessnerallee 3-5, smoke like some alchemist’s experiment. The young 8Stauffacher / Sihlstrasse, tel. (+41) 43 330 30 30, crowd seems to love this place, and so do we.QC‑11, www.swisscasinos.ch. Open 11:00 - 04:00, Fri & Sat Langstrasse 21, 8Helvetiaplatz, tel. (+41) 44 241 20 00, 11:00 - 05:00. Table games start at 14:00. www.brickbar.ch. Open 17:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 02:00. Closed Mon, Sun. A 28 Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com Nightlife TALES At this bar they really are dedicated to the fine art of PUBS & DRINKERIES making cocktails. And yes, think way further than a classy EDI’S WEINSTUBE Old Fashioned. The cocktail list is bound in fine leather and At Edi’s, elderly regulars mix with youngsters and students features fancy variations of the recent trend of cocktails making for an interesting combination of generations. with kitchen herbs as well as classics and variations. But The exceptionally low prices (from 3Sfr per dl wine, 21Sfr you can also just tell the barkeepers (and owners) Michel per bottle!) might be one reason for the popularity of the and Wolfgang the style of cocktail and kind of tastes you bar regardless of age, but Edi’s has some rather special like, and they will surprise you with one of their creations. features beyond the bargain prices: the bar is a porn art Their spirits library is huge. A classy bar for cocktail lovers. museum and a wine shop too (7.90Sfr per bottle for take And who isn’t one these days?QE‑12, Selnaustrasse 29, away, 2.60 a 5dl can of beer, Fri & Sat take away only 8Stauffacher, tel. (+41) 44 542 38 02, www.tales-bar. until 22:00). Every month, a new artist displays works ch. Open 18:00 - 03:00, Sat 20:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun. A of a more or less carnal kind. But don’t get the wrong impression, this brightly coloured bar isn’t smutty.QG‑12, Stuessihofstatt 14, 8Rathaus, tel. (+41) 44 260 61 57, ALTERNATIVE BARS www.weinstube.ch. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - EL LOKAL 02:00, Sun 14:00 - 22:00. NJ This admirably weird place in the city centre is home to a slightly alternative crowd. A big skeleton overlooks the bar, KENNEDY’S IRISH PUB and the walls from the gallery down to the ground floor are The Kennedy’s is an Irish pub with a large outdoor area, decorated with huge maps which have been painted over located close to the main train station. It’s popular with with portraits. In summer hundreds of people sit outside expats and locals alike. They have Guinness, Smithwicks on the waterside of the River enjoying food from the and Magners Cider on tap and really helpful and friendly barbecue. There is usually football and often concerts (with staff and of course all the major sports on different flat admission).QE‑12, Gessnerallee 11, 8Sihlpost, tel. (+41) and big screens. Besides burgers, salads and sandwiches 43 344 87 50, www.ellokal.ch. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri 10:00 they do some genuine pies, for example a beef and - 01:00, Sat 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 14:00 - 24:00. J A E ­­K Guinness one we liked very much. Pub Quiz on Monday nights!QE‑11, Freischützgasse 14, 8Sihlpost, tel. (+41) 44 241 92 94, www.kennedys.ch. Open 11:30 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:30 - 02:00, Sun 13:00 - 24:00, kitchen closes 22:00. J A ­E ­K

LIVE MUSIC

Zurich offers all kinds of live music: jazz, pop, rock, metal, indie, gothic and much more. You will find bands playing somewhere every night of the week. The clubs and bars listed here focus on live music - we tell you what you can usually expect. Some are just open The unusual, yet admirable interior at El Lokal. PD if there is a concert. For their daily programme, check the websites - or find all concerts on www.zueritipp.ch. SENDER Local alternative webradio station GDS.FM now has its MOODS own bar. Although it has brought the electronic sounds of With more than 230 concerts a year, the Moods is Zurich’s nightlife subculture to the airwaves since 2013, in Zurich’s prime address for jazz, funk, soul, blues and the spring of 2017 it began to broadcast the DJ sets from world music. Big international names as well as many its Sender bar. On Thursdays you can often find a live band Swiss artists. After-show parties on the weekend.QB‑7, and DJs spin their records on Fridays and Saturdays. The bar Schiffbaustrasse 6, 8Schiffbau, tel. (+41) 44 276 80 is small and dark and even the disco ball behind the bar is 00, www.moods.ch. painted black, but that doesn’t prevent people from shaking ROTE FABRIK their booties here late at night. The adequately lit concrete This centre of alternative culture funded by the city construction of the ceiling and the space photography has about 100 concerts a year on their variously sized on the wall make for an uncommon, yet appropriate stages. On Tuesdays often concerts in the Ziegel atmosphere.QD‑11, Kurzgasse 4, 8Helvetiaplatz, oh Lac restaurant. In summer sometimes open-air. www.gds.fm/sender. Open 18:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - QSeestrasse 395, 8Post Wollishofen, tel. (+41) 44 04:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun, warm-up 20:00, DJs 22:00. 485 58 58, www.rotefabrik.ch. Sometimes admission (5-10Sfr). A facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket February – March 2018 29 Nightlife live, there is a notable jukebox in a minimalistic and trashy CLUBS atmosphere. Outdoor area with food.QB‑8, Geroldstrasse BELLEVUE 35, 8Schiffbau, www.helsinkiklub.ch. Open Thu 20:00 - This is a another house and techno club. But, we have to 01:00, Fri, Sat 20:00 -04:00, Sun 20:00 - 02:00, other days say, we like this one. The lines of coloured lights on the walls check programme. E give the Bellevue something of a retro disco touch, while the music is house in all its variations - all very danceable. KANZLEI This club is for adults, minimum age is usually 25. You will The Kanzlei is one of the dinosaurs of the city’s clubs. find the entrance on the rear side of the building, actually Located in a former gym hall at Helvetiaplatz, its dance on Freieckstrasse.QH‑14, Rämistrasse 6, tel. (+41) 44 251 floor has been a magnet for a young party crowd for more 33 40, www.club-bellevue.ch. Open Fri, Sat 23:00 - late. than two decades - and it actually still is. Fri and Sat the JA DJs spin mostly party tunes, black music like hip hop, r’n’b, dancehall and reggae - check its website for details HELSINKI QD‑11, Kanzleistrasse 56, 8Helvetiaplatz, tel. (+41) 44 The Helsinki is a great little alternative bar and club next 291 63 11, www.kanzlei.ch. Open Fri, Sat & occasionally to Hardbrücke train station. Situated in a former garage, Thu 23:00 - 04:00. A lots of Swiss and sometimes foreign bands hit the stage. The admission fee is usually low and if no one is playing KAUFLEUTEN The Kaufleuten club is an institution in Zurich’s nightlife: ADULT ENTERTAINMENT the rich, the beautiful and wannabes like us queue up almost every weekday to party, mostly to electronic music If you’re male and looking for the so-called ‘sins of and disco-house sounds (sometimes party tunes, r’n’b and the flesh,’ then Zurich has a lot to offer. Prostitution is hip hop or reggaeton). Dress to impress is the motto, and legal in Switzerland, so you can find everything from for some people here looking the part seems to be very strip bars and erotic massages to sex clubs and escort important. Nevertheless, it’s a good place for a classy night services in Zurich. While hardly an alpine Amsterdam, out.QF‑13, Pelikanstrasse 18, 8Sihlstrasse, tel. (+41) Zurich is an inviting destination if you’re looking for 44 225 33 22, www.kaufleuten.com. Open usually Tue, carnal pleasures and sexy ladies in various states of Fri & Sat 23:00 - 04:00/05:00, Sun 21:00 - 02:00, other undress. days check programme. Admission around 25Sfr. J A ­E ­X Prostitution is not only legal but is also regulated by the city. Sex clubs need permission to operate and this is only granted if a business follows all of the security, health, social security and tax regulations, doesn’t place any undue pressure on the sex workers, ensures their health and guarantees violence prevention. For all these reasons, sex clubs are probably the best and safest option if you’re looking for sex in Zurich. Street prostitution is also regulated, but is only permitted in a few areas (i.e. Häringstrasse in the Niederdorf district) and only at certain times. Here are some reputable strip bars. Check our website www.zurich.inyourpocket.com for erotic massage parlours and sex clubs.

We believe the places we list to be upstanding Kaufleuten: it’s gettin’ hot in here! PD businesses, but we still recommend employing simple common sense when delving into the world of adult PLAZA entertainment. The Plaza bis a big club with two dance floors (and yes, you can smoke on the smaller one!). DJ’s play sounds from mash HAIFISCH up, 90s and 80s, r’n’b to disco, house and other electronic The ‘shark’ in the centre of Niederdorf comes with music. The Plaza is popular with all kinds of people - a good modern red leather sofas and lots of mirrors. The place to end your bar tour around Langstrasse. Thursday interior is nice, but really you’re here for the girls - they students night, free admission for students before 23:00. dance on two poles on a sleek stage. Sit back and enjoy. QC‑12, Badenerstrasse 109, 8Bezirksgebäude, tel. QG‑12, Mühlegasse 3, 8Rudolf-Brun-Brücke, tel. (+41) 44 542 90 90, www.plaza-zurich.ch. Club open (+41) 44 251 41 10, www.haifischbar.ch. Open 19:00 Thu 22:00 - late, Fri & Sat 23:00 - late. Bar open Mon - Fri - 04:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 05:00. JA 17:00 - late, Sat 18:00 - late. Admission Fri & Sat around 25Sfr. A ­E ­X 30 Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com Sightseeing

Look, it’s Grossmünster church! Wintry vista of Niederdorf from Lindenhof Square. | Zurich Tourism

Zurich’s largely intact medieval town on the one hand in the 16th century. The little archway on the outer corner and its natural setting on the other are the city’s charms. of Fraumünster (Poststrasse/Münsterhof) was used to limit It also has an excellent range of museums and galleries decadence and elaborate clothing, and women’s wide hoop showing international art. Admission to many places is free, skirts had to fit through here, or else a fine was due. Since if it does cost we indicate the full price followed by reduced summer 2016 the crypt is open to visitors. Be considerate, price, usually the children’s price, e.g. 10/5Sfr. Museums are no photos, no visiting during Sunday services.QG‑13, usually closed on Mondays. Stadthausquai 19, 8Helmhaus, www.fraumuenster.ch. Open 10:00 - 18:00, (Nov - Feb 10:00 - 17:00). Admission 5Sfr, incl. audioguide (available in 8 languages) or MAIN SIGHTS brochure and admission to crypt museum. Children free. If you ask someone from Zurich which of the city’s sights Groups must book time slots in advance. represents Zurich best, they’ll probably point to the Grossmünster, its unmistakable double towers making GROSSMÜNSTER it the closest Zurich has to a landmark. Wasserkirche and The two towers of the originally Romanesque Grossmünster Fraumünster complete the trinity of famous churches. are Zurich’s landmark and they also offer a great view Lindenhof is where Zurich started off and is a lovely spot over Zurich, if you make it up the 187 narrow steps (5/2Sfr today, while the central police station is another unlikely admission for the tower, open 10:00 - 16:30, Sun 12:30 - 16:30). lovely spot - unless maybe you’re escorted there. Its According to legend, Felix and Regula, Zurich’s patron saints, entrance hall is splendidly decorated with work by Augusto were beheaded at the site of the Wasserkirche and then Giacometti. But two of Zurich’s major attractions are not walked up to where the Grossmünster stands, taking their man-made at all: the lake and the Uetliberg peak. heads with them. Centuries later the emperor Charlemagne was passing through Zurich and decided to found a church FRAUMÜNSTER in honour of the martyrs - after a hint from his horse. Since the Today most people come to Fraumünster to see the Reformation the church has a barren feel, alleviated only by magnificent stained glass windows in the choir created the windows. German artist Sigmar Polke finished 12 simply by French artist Marc Chagall in the early 1970s, or the beautiful windows in 2009, partly made of semi-precious windows by Augusto Giacometti. But in days gone by this stones. Crypt and cloister with a museum on the Reformation Gothic abbey dating from the 9th century was more than are also accessible. Audioguide in different languages just pretty. Fraumünster, which literally means women’s available (5Sfr plus 5Sfr deposit).QG‑13, Grossmünsterplatz, abbey, belonged to the Benedictine convent whose abbess 8Helmhaus, www.grossmuenster.ch. Open 10:00 - 18:00, had wide powers in Zurich. Women came on harder times (Nov - Feb 10:00 - 17:00). facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket February – March 2018 31 Sightseeing GIACOMETTI MURALS LAKE ZURICH In the entrance hall to the city’s police headquarters, Augusto Giacometti’s (1877 - 1947) magnificent murals adorn the vaulted ceiling and the walls. We think this impressive work is a must see for any Zurich visitor! The Giacomettis were a family of artists: Augusto’s cousin Giovanni (1868 - 1933) and Giovanni’s son Alberto (1901 - 1966) were successful artists too. And while Alberto and his haggard bronze figures are probably the best known Giacomettis (you can see some of those figures in the permanent exhibition at Zurich’s Kunsthaus), Augusto had the strongest connection to Zurich, as he studied and later lived here. And the murals in the entrance hall of Zurich’s police headquarters (1923 - 1925) is not the only work of his you can see in the city: he revitalised the art Zurich Tourism (BM) of stained-glass windows, creating the choir windows in the Grossmunster (1932), the window depicting paradise The lake is certainly one of the city’s highlights in the northern transept of the Fraumunster (1945) and and a walk along the shores is a must, whatever the windows in the Wasserkirche. The murals however, remain season. Start for example at Bellevue and walk along the work he is best known for. Admission to the murals is the promenade towards Zürichhorn. After a few free, the opening hours are quite short though.QG‑12, hundred metres a park fills the expanse between Polizeiwache, Bahnhofquai 3, 8Bahnhofquai/HB. Open the lake and the street. The huge Blatterwiese, also 09:00 - 11:00, 14:00 - 16:00, ​Admission free, ID required. known as Chinawiese because the Chinese garden is just next to it, is popular for relaxing, sunbathing or playing sports. There is also a playground for kids. Continuing, you get to Zürichhorn, a small delta with some lakeside restaurants and later still to the railway station Tiefenbrunnen where you can hop on a tram (or train) back to Bellevue. The western shore of the lake is a bit less popular though just as nice for a walk. Start at the Arboretum and walk along the shore passing port, the cactuses of the Sukkulentensammlung, and the Mythenquai until you reach the Landiwiese, a large field where many cultural events take place. If you go just a little further, you can enjoy a beer in the restaurant of the offstream cultural centre Rote Fabrik The colourful Giacometti murals are worth a visit. Zurich Toursim (JR) (red factory), marked by the red brick factory chimney.

LAKE ZURICH CRUISES LINDENHOF The Lake Zurich Navigation Company operates ships This idyllic square on a little hill in Zurich’s old town used to on Lake Zurich and the River Limmat. If you just want be an important place. The Romans set up shop here and ten minutes of captains’ uniforms and brass foghorns, later mediaeval royals would stay here when travelling in the routes Bürkliplatz-Wollishofen and Bürkliplatz- the region. Check out the replica Roman tomb stone in the Zürichhorn are included in any public transport ticket right-hand wall of Pfalzgasse leading down and out of the covering zone 110, but you need to buy a 5Sfr boat square. The view from here over the Limmat is very pretty surcharge (available on board). If that’s not enough and on sunny days you can join in a game of chess at the for you, go the whole hog with a roundtrip. There are back of the square.QG‑12, 8Rathaus. different cruises all year round. They all start from the port at Bürkliplatz close to Bellevue several times a UETLIBERG day. The short cruise (90 minutes) for example starts The Uetliberg is Zurich’s own little mountain, marking in winter daily at 12:40 and 14:10, more frequent on the end of the Albis mountain chain on the western side of weekends, the 4-hour one daily at 13:30. Tickets and Lake Zurich. It rises up to 869 metres a.s.l. - towering around timetables are available at the port.QF‑14, Bürkliplatz, 450 metres over the city. There is a lookout tower on top 8Bürkliplatz, tel. (+41) 44 487 13 33, www.zsg.ch. (admission 2Sfr) bringing you to exactly 900 metres a.s.l. Tickets for roundtrips 8.80-34.40Sfr (plus 5Sfr boat and offering a stunning view over the city, the lake and on surcharge), children half the price, discount with to the Alps. The mountain is a popular local recreation area Zurich public transport day cards. all year round. There is a train (S10 from track 21 or 22) from the main station twice an hour (more on weekends). Be 32 Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com Sightseeing aware that you need an additional ticket even if you have a day pass for Zurich (with a day pass, buy a 1 - 2 additional zones’ day ticket at the ticket machine). From the terminal station it’s an easy 10-minute walk to the peak with the lookout tower and a restaurant. You can also walk up from the city to the peak. Take tram N°13 in direction Albisgüetli and get off at the last stop. From there two different paths lead to the top, both take about an hour. You do not need hiking equipment, but we recommend good shoes and staying on the path, especially in winter.

CHURCHES See main sights (p. 31) for Fraumünster and Grossmünster.

ST. PETER St. Peter church is the one with the huge clock-faces on all four sides of the tower you can spot from far away. The diameter of the clock-faces is almost 9 metres - they are said to be the biggest in Europe. The first mayor of Zurich, Rudolf Brun, was buried here in 1360 - a copy of his tomb stone can be seen on the northern side of the church. The nave of the church was finished in 1706, while the choir and the tower date from a Romanesque church built in 1230. This was the first church in Zurich that was built as a Protestant place of worship after the Reformation.QF‑13, St.-Peter-Hofstatt, 8Paradeplatz, www.st-peter-zh.ch. Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00.

WASSERKIRCHE The Wasserkirche, water church, is on the banks of the Limmat - but still, why the name? Actually, it was on an island in the river until the Limmatquai was built in 1839. Dating at least from the 10th century, what you see today is late Gothic style from the 15th century. See also the stained glass windows by Augusto Giacometti in the choir and the crypt with tombs almost as old as the church. A statue of forbidding Huldrich Zwingli stands at one end. Under the stone arches outside, the Kunstkiosk (art kiosque) sells books and prints and street musicians set up shop.QG‑13, Limmatquai 31, 8Helmhaus, www.wasserkirche.ch. Open 11:00 - 14:00, 17:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00.

MUSEUMS & ART Zurich is a real city of museums - there are 43 of them. We list the most popular ones and the ones we like best. Find information on all the museums on www.museen-zuerich.ch.

BEYER WATCH MUSEUM (UHRENMUSEUM) At the Beyer watch museum you can admire hundreds of watches without worrying that a shop clerk is about to ask you which one you’re interested in buying. The exhibition shows the very different instruments used for time measurement from Egyptian times to today. It is within the premises of the Beyer watch shop.QF‑13, Bahnhofstrasse 31, 8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41) 43 344 63 63, www.beyer-ch.com. Open 14:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat & Sun. Admission 8/3Sfr, children up to 12 years free. facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket February – March 2018 33 Sightseeing FIFA WORLD FOOTBALL MUSEUM CONTEMPORARY Zurich is the hometown of the International Federation ARCHITECTURE of Association Football or FIFA. Its very own museum tells the history of football, FIFA and the World Cup over more than 3,000m2. You’re initially met with the jerseys of all 211 FIFA member associations, which are on display in a kind of colour-coded rainbow, as well as a timeline that takes you through the history of FIFA. The second floor is dedicated to the World Cup complete with dozens of historic artefacts including the tracksuit that football’s first real star Pelé wore in 1958. And yes, the original FIFA World Cup trophy is also on display! The third and last floor is dedicated to the impact football has had and continues to have on society. There’s also a gaming zone The rather harsh ‘Neue Einfachheit’ (new simplicity) is with giant pinball machines where you and your kids the style which was most readily associated with Swiss can test your skills with actual footballs. The museum is architecture in recent decades. More recently, architects great for football fans and families and a bistro, a café- in Zurich have shaken off the austerity and a number of bar, a shop and the Sportsbar 1904 can also be found architectural gems have been built in Zurich. at the museum.QE‑15, Seestrasse 27, 8Bahnhof Enge, tel. (+41) 43 388 25 00, www.fifamuseum.com. KRAFTWERK 1 Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Architects: Bünzli/Courvoisier and Stücheli Architekten Admission 24/14Sfr, students 18Sfr, kids younger than Kraftwerk 1 was built by a cooperative founded with seven free, families 64Sfr. the aim of experimenting with new types of living arrangements. Completed in 2000, the flats range between 2 and 13 rooms in size, making it possible for up to 15 people to share a flat and to organise their lives in ways beyond the traditional family.QHardturmstrasse 261 - 269, 8Bernoulli-Häuser. UNIVERISTY OF ZURICH LAW LIBRARY Architect: Santiago Calatrava Valls In a quest to create more space for the university without acquiring any new land, the Spanish architect who is based in Zurich added in 2004 two stories in steel and glass to this 1909 building. He also roofed the inner courtyard and set into it a series of elliptic steel balconies finished in wood, gaining even more space. From the bottom floor where one enters, this construction appears as an A place to worship football: the FIFA World Football Museum. PD immense wooden sculpture (see photo above). Calatrava is also the creative spirit behind Stadelhofen train station KUNSTHAUS (1984 - 1990).QG-3, Rämistrasse­ 74, 8Kantonsschule. Zurich’s major art museum has an impressive collection Library open 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 17:00, Sun open with work by many Swiss artists such as Füssli, Hodler, 09:00 - 17:00. Segantini or Bill and the largest collection of Alberto Giacometti’s work including some of his trademark haggard statues. Work by international artists like Manet, ETHNOGRAPHIC MUSEUM Van Gogh, Kokoschka or Baselitz also please the eye and (VÖLKERKUNDEMUSEUM) mind. Additionally there are usually two very worthwhile From the Himalayas to Ethiopia, from Panama to Papua temporary exhibitions, one large, one small (see section New Guinea, the treasures of the Ethnographic Museum Culture & Events). English language audioguides available. come from cultures across the planet. They include Café and shop on the ground floor.QH‑13, Heimplatz 1, cultic wood sculptures, intricately patterned textiles as 8Kunsthaus, tel. (+41) 44 253 84 84, www.kunsthaus.ch. well as collections of photographs and films shot by Open 10:00 - 18:00, Wed, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Closed anthropologists over the past decades. The museum, which Mon. Admission for collection 16/11Sfr, for exhibitions is pleasantly located in Zurich’s old botanical gardens, was 23/18Sfr, combined ticket 26/19Sfr. Free admission to renovated in 2014. Temporary exhibitions with different the collection every Wednesday. focuses.QE‑13, Pelikanstrasse 40, 8Sihlporte, tel. (+41) 44 634 90 10, www.musethno.uzh.ch. Open 10:00 MIGROS MUSEUM FÜR GEGENWARTSKUNST - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 14:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - The Migros museum for contemporary art is located 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission free. in the old Löwenbräu brewery, together with many 34 Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com Sightseeing other art institutions. The museum is financed by the art fund of the eponymous super market co-operative. MORE FOR LESS The collection includes Swiss and international artists WITH THE ZÜRICH CARD with an emphasis on art with a social critical slant and installations reflecting on the topic of space. Feb 17 - You’re in town for only two days? Too short, but the May 13, 2018: Collection on Display: Communities, Rules Zürich Card can help you make the most of it. and Rituals.QC‑7, Limmatstrasse 270, 8Dammweg, tel. (+41) 44 277 20 50, www.migrosmuseum.ch. For a busy day or two in Zurich, Open 11:00 - 18:00, Thu 11:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 you can’t really go wrong - 17:00. Closed Mon. 12/8Sfr, children under 16 free. with the Zürich Card. It gives Free admission for all Thu 17:00 - 20:00. you free entry to a number of great museums like the National Museum and dozens more. It also gets you MUSEUM RIETBERG a 10% discount in lots of shops, e.g. Meng cutlery or An internationally recognised collection of art from Vollenweider Chocolatier. You get free entry to several Asia, Africa and the Americas is on show at the of Zurich’s best clubs and to the casino and many Rietberg Museum, in permanent and temporary restaurants will give you dessert on the house with the exhibitions. As of 2013, the Meiyintang collection of card or some other extra, if you have a main course first. Chinese ceramic art has been added to this, in an all The Zürich Card also gives you unlimited use of trams, new interior, making the Rietberg perhaps the top buses and trains within the city and includes the train address for Chinese art in Europe. The museum is trip from and to the airport, and the trip up to Zurich’s housed in several period villas and pavillons, all set little mountain Uetliberg. Now that’s a deal!QThe Zürich in Rieterpark, a park which is worth a visit in itself. Card costs 27/19Sfr for 24hr and 53/37Sfr for 72hr. QD‑16, Gablerstrasse 15, 8Museum Rietberg, tel. Buy it at SBB counters, at the airport, train stations, (+41) 44 206 31 31, www.rietberg.ch. Open 10:00 - at the tourist information at the main station or at all 17:00, Wed 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission: VBZ public transport sales points and from all ticket 18/14Sfr for the exhibitions and the permanent machines in town (stamp it before you set off!). Check collection, free for children up to 16. Collection www.zuerich.com/zuerichcard for the full range of only14/12Sfr. discounts. The Zürich Card is issued by Zürich Tourism who cooperate with Zurich In Your Pocket.

CITY TOURS

EXCURSIONS

Bookings +41 (0)44 710 50 50 www.switzerland-tours.ch

facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket February – March 2018 35 Sightseeing MARKETS SIGHTSEEING TOURS BEST OF ZURICH - ZÜRICH CITY TOUR FLEA MARKET KANZLEI Enjoy a city tour in an air-conditioned coach including This is probably Switzerland’s biggest year-round flea a short stroll through the old town and a ride with market. Up to 400 people put their second-hand goods the Dolderbahn rack-and-pinion railway up into the on sale here every Saturday, professional traders as well residential area of Zürichberg. In a little more than two as people who are just flogging things they don’t need hours you get to see Bahnhofstrasse and the financial anymore.QC‑11, Kanzleistrasse 56, 8Helvetiaplatz, district, the old guild houses and the universities. www.flohmarktkanzlei.ch. Open Sat 07:20 - 16:00. There’s live commentary in English and German as well as audio guides in Spanish, Russian, Chinese and ROSENHOFMARKT Japanese. In addition to the city tour, the company also Incense sticks, trinkets and hippie-style clothes are offers tours to Titlis, Pilatus, Rigi, the Rhine Falls and on offer on Thursdays and Saturdays at the Rosenhof, Jungfraujoch, just to name a few. Excursions for small a hidden square in the Niederdorf part of the old groups and adventure packages are also available. Visit town. Artists also sell their handcrafted jewellery and www.switzerland-tours.ch for more information.QF‑10, pottery. There is also food from around the world. Bus Terminal Sihlquai, 8Sihlquai/HB, tel. (+41) 44 710 QG‑12, Rosenhof, 8Rathaus, www.gld.ch. March 50 50, www.switzerland-tours.ch. Starts daily at 13:00 - December Thu 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. at the Sihlquai bus terminal next to the main train station. Tickets available on the spot, but reservation NONAM by phone is recommended. Tickets 34/17Sfr. (NORTH AMERICA NATIVE MUSEUM) The permanent exhibition of the North America Native Museum shows over 700 objects like masks, boats or totem poles from six regions in the USA and Canada. The exhibitions’ aim is to render a better understanding of the natives of North America and show the various ways the Inuit, Indian and Métis groups lived from the arctic north to the deserts in the southwest. QSeefeldstrasse 317, 8Tiefenbrunnen, tel. (+41) 43 499 24 40, www.nonam.ch. Open 13:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 12/8/6Sfr, families 25Sfr.

SCHWEIZER FINANZMUSEUM (FINANCE MUSEUM) With all its banks Zurich is known as the city for finance and money and it finally has a museum dedicated to the subject. What are stocks, how were they traded and how does it work today? And how did Switzerland become an The Swiss business elite of the 19th century (Escher & Menasse) and the Greek god Midas guide you through the Finanzmuseum. PD important marketplace for finance? These questions and more are answered by audio installations (Alfred Escher, Zurich’s railway pioneer and founder of the bank Credit THE ZURICH EXPERIENCE CITY TOUR Suisse, will explain everything to you!) as well as interactive Ride around Zurich in a modern panorama coach. video installations. Want to go public with your company? The two-hour tour gives you an overview of the city No problem, a friendly gentlemen on a video screen will showing you the financial district, Bahnhofstrasse and explain the process to you. There’s also a short trainee a part of the old town including the Grossmünster, programme available for stockbrokers and a game where Fraumünster and St. Peter’s churches as well as the posh you can prove your skills afterwards. In this year’s special residential areas on Zürichberg. Commentary including exhibition, original securities with signatures of famous some insights into the history of the city is provided people like Charlie Chaplin, Johann Wolfgang Goethe via headsets in eleven languages (English, French, and many others are on display. The museum gives you German, Italian, Spanish Japanese, Portuguese, Russian, an insight into the world of finance and is run by Six, the Chinese, Hindi, Arabic). They also offer many other tours, company that operates the Swiss stock exchange. You can including trips to , Mount Pilatus, Jungfraujoch also download its free app to your smartphone, which will and more. See website for more tours.QF‑10, Bus guide you through the museum.QPfingstweidstrasse Terminal Sihlquai, 8Sihlquai/HB, tel. (+41) 44 383 110, 8Sportweg, tel. (+41) 58 399 32 88, 78 78, www.meiertours.ch. Daily 09:45, 12:00 & 14:00. www.finanzmuseum.ch. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Tickets 34/17Sfr, available on the spot, reservation by Sun. Admission 10/8Sfr, children up to 12 years free. phone recommended. 36 Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com Sightseeing STORIES OF THE OLD TOWN - GUIDED WALK A professional guide will take you on this two-hour walk through the old town of Zurich. What links famous literati, scientists or visionaries such as Albert Einstein, Lenin and the Dadaists with Zurich? Discover the city’s history and listen to anecdotes from its past in English and German. Good choice if you really want to see the old town, where the bus tours can’t go. For other walks such as the ones on design and gourmet food ask at the Tourist Information at the main station. Reservation by phone recommended.QG‑11, Tourist Information Main Train Station, 8Hauptbahnhof, tel. (+41) 44 215 40 00, www.zuerich.com. Starts at the Tourist Information at the main train station. Nov - March only Wed & Sun View over the River Limmat towards Fraumünster church 11:00, Sat 11:00 (German) & 15:00 (English). 25/12.50Sfr, Zurich Tourism 50% discount with ZürichCARD. FREE WALKING TOURS ZURICH Over the last couple of years they have popped up all over THE GHOST WALK OF ZURICH Europe - and now have made their way to Zurich too: the This tour is not for the faint-hearted: Dan Dent will tell and so-called free walking tours. In Zurich they offer daily guided show you all about Zurich’s Ghosts on a walk through the walks through the old town, mostly in English (usually at old town - in English only. Listen to this great entertainer 11:00, meeting point is Paradeplatz), on some days in Spanish and get to know the Poltergeist or the ghost of too. The old-town tour features all the classic sights and some Zurich’s first mayor, Rudolf Brun.QF‑13, Paradeplatz, history. They also have other tours like the Zurich West tour to 8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41) 44 941 45 65, www.ghostwalk. the former industrial district and a Langstrasse tour. Tours last ch. February - May and August - Mid-November every around 90 minutes and are a nice way to get a first feel of the Fri at 20:00 at Paradeplatz. Meeting point is next to the city. Note that while these tours are technically free, you really fountain. No need to book, just show up. Wheelchair are expected to tip at the end (the website says 11Sfr). Check accessible. 15Sfr, not suitable for children under 14 their website for available tours and meeting points, no need years. to book.QF‑13, www.freewalkzurich.ch. meiertours.ch Hans Meier Tourist Ltd. • Gray Line Switzerland Bookings +41 (0)44 383 78 78 Daily Excursions The Zurich Experience City Tour with audio-guided commentary

Regular Sightseeing Tours Exciting tours to Glacier Paradise Mt. Titlis, Jungfraujoch, Heidiland, Lucerne …

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facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket February – March 2018 37 Old-town stroll at the top of Marktgasse and now you’re on the main throughway of pedestrian Niederdorf, the other part of the old town. On the right is 5 Cabaret Voltaire, from where the Dada movement - jolifanto bambla o falli bambla - set off to confuse the bourgeoisie in 1916.

A little further on to the left, set back in a little courtyard, is Schober, a richly decorated sweets and pastry shop worth at least a quick visit. Directly opposite are Schwarzenbach coffee roasters - the irresistible smell gets even better if you stick your nose inside. Strolling further along Münstergasse you pass the Bodega Española on your right, where in the 1950s author Max Frisch used to drop in for a beer and a few tapas.

A few steps along you’re at Zurich’s landmark Romanesque - style abbey, the somewhat austere 6 Grossmünster with its double towers and their rather unique, Neo-Gothic spires added in the 18th century. Looking towards the river, The Amazon fountain at the end of Rennweg. www.juanrubiano.com the third bridge, Münsterbrücke, appears and the graceful Fraumünster Abbey is visible across the Limmat. Take Zurich’s old town snuggles up to both banks of the river the steps from the Grossmünster courtyard down to the ­Limmat, so our old-town stroll does much the same and 7 Wasserkirche and the Helmhaus art gallery by the river heads upstream, crossing two bridges and passing a third. and then cross the bridge to 8 Fraumünster (see p. 31) We set off at the bridge named after Zurich’s first mayor, to gaze at the famous stained-glass windows by Chagall. 1 Rudolf-Brun Brücke, which is easily reached from You’ve seen all the really important parts of Zurich’s old Bahnhofstrasse or by walking along the Limmat (down town now and can finish off with one of Zurich’s other Bahnhofquai) from the main train station. At the bridge’s major attractions - the lake - which is just five minutes’ walk south-western corner, just by the Swiss handicrafts shop, further along the river. head down the steps to the metal walkway leading

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d r e t i e s U raniastr N n a who are always here, in one of the games of outdoor chess. f sse 1 Rudolf-Bru g o n-Brücke a h M s n ühl se s h egas Leaving Lindenhof opposite from where you entered (down e a B bach Oeten gasse B Pfalz-Gasse), there’s a copy of the Roman tombstone which adergasse se i as mentions Turicum (Zurich) on your right, set in the wall. a talg u Spi R q gasse t e Schipfe na a e n rtu ass n o m ng w F Brun m 3 e Lindenhof i Ahead of you is the church tower of St. Peter (see p. e g L ass lg 2 e te s ut s

K P 33), our next destination situated on one of Zurich’s most a f g a b tatt l ofs z le Stüssih t g hl mark peaceful squares (St. Peterhofstatt). Going left, either of Aug . Wo Rinder ustinerg B asse ngasse the alleys (Weggengasse or Thermengasse) gets you to a ue e h Le ss n S se a h gas g tre Rathausbr. Markt el the second bridge, 4 Rathausbrücke, also known as the o h g f l ie s g 5 p t . 4 S r a s vegetable bridge because of the small fruit & veg market S s M c e e s ü h as l g n 3 ü en s held here on Saturdays. asse s nk t rstr s A e te e se Pe r . L s t l a g rstr S g e i et . a t. P m S s m s

e a t On the other end of the bridge you have the Rathaus, the ssen q Ga u In a town hall, to your right and the Rathaus café to your left. i Bärengasse sse Our rigorous ramble takes us straight ahead, across the Ta ücke ga l ünsterbr 6 h ac M c k ir tram lines on Limmatquai and into Marktgasse, where er 8 7 K ststrasse you’ll find one of Zurich’s prettiest flower shops. Turn right Po 38 Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com Zurich for kids Are we there yet?! Children have their own idea of how to have a good time and stylish bars or Gothic cathedrals SHOPS may not exactly do the trick. But no fear, there’s plenty to do with children in Zurich. Find more suggestions on www.zurich.inyourpocket.com.

MUSEUMS & ZOOS ZOOLOGICAL AND PALEONTOLOGICAL MUSEUMS OF THE A giant sloth waits just beyond the entrance here, but luckily it’s only a reconstruction, so you can even stroke it. Animals large and small are displayed stuffed or as skeletons: jaguars, kangaroos, platypuses, giant crabs. You’ll be amazed what exists in the animal kingdom. Insects can Franz Carl Weber be viewed under a microscope, and your children and you can listen to the songs of 280 different birds, and see FRANZ CARL WEBER them as well. The paleontological section features marine This is the toy shop to visit in the city centre dinosaurs from when Switzerland was covered by an conveniently located right next to the main station. See ocean, as well as giant ammonite fossils, land dinosaurs like also p. 42.QF‑12, Bahnhofplatz 9, 8Bahnhofplatz/ triceratops and skeletons of woolly mammoths. No café, HB, tel. (+41) 44 225 78 78, www.fcw.ch. Open 09:00 but a rest area where you can eat your own food.QH‑11, - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. Karl Schmid-Strasse 4, 8ETH/Universitätsspital, tel. (+41) 44 634 38 38, www.zm.uzh.ch. Open 09:00 - 17:00, ALKENA Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission free. The small shop near Bellevue has a good selection of high-quality, cheerful children’s clothes made of organic textiles. The brand Alkena specialises in organic silk which is produced in its own silk farm in China. They also sell women’s clothes, so mum might find something she likes too.QH‑14, Stadelhoferstrasse 33, 8Bellevue, tel. (+41) 44 261 66 00, www.alkena.com. Open 10:00 - 18:30, Mon 12:00 - 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.

SWIMMING BATHS OERLIKON (HALLENBAD) Zurich’s biggest indoor swimming baths and the best with children. There’s a 25-metre pool for non-swimmers, a children’s pool with water toys, a 50-metre pool for good swimmers and a diving pool. Get there on tram N°11 (plus a good 5 minutes walk) or buses N°63 or N°94. Long in the tooth? They take care of their mammoths here. QJ‑1, Wallisellenstrasse 100, 8Messe/Hallenstadion, Michèle Amacker tel. (+41) 44 315 67 77, www.sportamt.ch/schwimmen. Open 06:00 - 22:00, Mon, Tue, Thu 06:00 - 20:00. PARKS & SPORTS Admission: 8/6/4Sfr, under 6 years free. SKATING RINK DOLDER (KUNSTEISBAHN) Surrounded by woods up above Zurich the Dolder outdoor skating rink is a great little getaway. Getting there is a little CAFÉS adventure too. Take tram N°3, 8 or 15 to Römerhof and KAFI FÜR DICH then get the little red Dolderbahn, a cogwheel railway, up This café next to the park Bäckeranlage has a children’s to the last station (6 min). Self-service restaurant on site. corner where your young ones can paint the walls with QAdlisbergstrasse 36, 8Römerhof, tel. (+41) 44 267 chalk or play with one of the many toys while you sit 70 80, www.doldereisbahn.ch. Open from Nov 1 until and have a coffee or a drink. On weekends the place is so March 11, 2018: 09:00 - 22:30, Sun 09:00 - 17:45. The popular with parents you have to weave your way through rink is closed on Wed from 17:30 to 19:15. Admission: the many push chairs standing around. Well worth a children 4-16 years: 4Sfr, 17-20 years: 6Sfr, adults: 8Sfr. If visit even without your kids.QStauffacherstrasse 141, you just want to watch you‘ll have to pay 2Sfr. Renting 8Helvetiaplatz, tel. (+41) 317 91 60, www.fuerdich.ch. a pair of ice skates: 8Sfr. Family ticket including skates Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri 08:00 - 02:00, Sat 09:00 - 02:00, rental: 40Sfr. Sun 09:00 - 20:00. facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket February – March 2018 39 Shopping

Upmarket Bahnhofstrasse is Zurich’s most famous shopping area, but it’s not the only one. | www.juanrubiano.com

Zurich has the reputation of a shopping city, even if not is a must for every shopping fan. Wander into the side quite that of London or Milano. Especially Bahnhofstrasse is streets as well, where shops are no less luxurious and some well known around the globe as one of the most exclusive more unusual little gems are hidden. and expensive shopping streets in the world. For Swiss and urban design, Europaallee and the area around Langstrasse Niederdorf (G-11/13) Even if Niederdorf - the part of the old are good spots. In the way of shopping malls, Switzerland town east of the river Limmat - is better known for dining and can’t match other European countries where huge centres nightlife than for shopping, it’s well worth expanding your are the order of the day. But maybe that’s a good thing. shopping tour into this quarter. Along the streets Limmatquai The Sihlcity shopping centre, an easily reachable mall that and Niederdorfstrasse - both pedestrian areas - you will find opened in 2007, is an example of an innovative development smaller shops with up-to-date street wear, fancy shoes and - without being a giant. The shopping mall Glatt just outside fashion stores. The smaller alleys are also well worth a peek. the city limits is Switzerland’s most popular shopping mall. The malls and best shopping areas of the city are listed here Old Town (F/G-12/13) The old town between together with other remarkable shops. Remember all shops Bahnhofstrasse and the river Limmat is another shopping are closed on Sundays except at the railway stations. For area not to miss. Try the pedestrian street Rennweg more suggestions check www.zurich.inyourpocket.com for example with its international clothing brands and boutiques or Storchengasse with its luxury designer stores The main shopping areas are: as well as cutlery and souvenir shops. Bahnhofstrasse (F-11/14) The Bahnhofstrasse leads OPENING HOURS from the main railway station to the lake and is mostly a pedestrian area almost without traffic - but watch out Many shops on and around Bahnhofstrasse are for the trams! It’s world-famous for its luxury stores: find open Mon to Fri 09:00 - 19:00 / 20:00. Smaller jewellery, watches and designer boutiques as well as shops including jewellers often close at 18:30, some the big department stores Jelmoli, Globus and Manor are closed on Monday mornings. On Saturdays here. In recent years not to everyone’s pleasure more most shops open from 09:00 - 17:00 (or 18:00, and more big foreign companies like Apple have opened department stores until 20:00). On Sundays all stores on Bahnhofstrasse displacing some traditional shops have to be closed by law (except in train and Zurich companies - some say Bahnhofstrasse is losing its petrol stations). atmosphere. Nevertheless a walk down this famous street 40 Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com Shopping - creating irresistible aromas!QF‑11, Bahnhofstrasse THE GALLERY 106, 8Bahnhofstrasse/HB, tel. (+41) 44 211 53 72, This is a shopping www.laederach.ch. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - paradise for women 18:00. Closed Sun. - 20 fashion brands of renown such as Guess, Marc O’Polo, Coccinelle, G-Lab, Zoe Karssen or Trussardi MAX CHOCOLATIER are on offer. The store has sections for casual trendy, Originating from Lucerne, Max Chocolatier sell their sweet modern contemporary, affordable luxury, jeans fashion 100% natural delicacies in Zurich too - in their shop next and accessories rather than being organised by brands. to St. Peter church. They sell chocolates and pralines of And while fashion is at the core of this store there are outstanding quality. The chocolatiers make every piece some lifestyle products like candles or pillows as well. by hand, whether it’s, say, bars of dark Madagascan They have monthly offers for beauty products and even chocolate with pumpkin seeds, creamy caramel delicacies food or beverages, to make your shopping experience or their own chocolate spread.QG‑13, Schlüsselgasse Q that bit more exciting. F‑12, Löwenstrasse 40, 12, 8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41) 44 251 03 33, 8 Löwenplatz, tel. (+41) 43 343 95 71, www. www.maxchocolatier.com. Open 10:30 - 19:00, Sat thegalleryconcept.ch. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 10:00 - 17:30. Closed Mon, Sun. - 18:00. Closed Sun.

BOOKS & MUSIC ORELL FÜSSLI - THE BOOKSHOP Zurich’s biggest English-language bookshop stocks thousands of fiction and non-fiction books, magazines, audio books and DVDs - and all in English. It’s located on the third floor of the Orell Füssli bookshop just off Bahnhofstrasse.QF‑12, Füsslistrasse 4 (3rd floor), 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 211 04 44, www.orellfussli.ch. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.

ZERO ZERO RARE GROOVE Ten thousands of vinyls from rock to hip hop and new beats, from the 60s to the latest records. Thousands of CDs All of the sweet delicacies at Max Chocolatier are handmade. PD as well, mostly second hand. Just tell the staff what you are looking for and they will try to help you find it.QD‑11, Bäckerstr. 54, 8Stauffacher, tel. (+41) 44 241 85 20, DEPARTMENT STORES www.zerozero.ch. Open 12:00 - 18:30, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. JELMOLI Closed Sun. They call themselves the house of brands - and that’s what they are indeed: Hugo Boss, DKNY, Joop, Diesel, Tommy Hilfiger, Versace are just some of the fashion brands you CHOCOLATE & SWEETS can find here. But there’s more than fashion: perfumes, LÄDERACH CHOCOLATIER SUISSE household goods, a huge sports and an electronics The traditional Swiss chocolatier Läderach sells freshly department. And not to forget Jelmoli Food Market produced chocolate, filled chocolates and pralines. You grocery store in the basement.QF‑12, Seidengasse 1, even get an insight into the craft of confectionery here, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 220 44 11, www.jelmoli.ch. as some of the chocolate is actually produced on site Open 09:30 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.

Orell Füssli The Bookshop 3rd Floor, Füsslistrasse 4, 8001 Zürich +41 (0)44 211 04 44 [email protected]

facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket February – March 2018 Ins_BS_ZH_inyoupocket_072016.indd 1 11.07.16 14:16 41 Shopping TOY STORES FASHION NEW FRANZ CARL WEBER BRANKOB This is the toy shop to visit in the city centre conveniently This men’s fashion boutique on the Viadukt shopping street located right next to the main station. There’s virtually has an extraordinary selection of local and international anything you might desire on two huge floors from brands like Tiger of Sweden, Marc Stone and Julian Zigerli. first toys for newborns to tech toys for grown-ups, Accessories, bags and shoes are also available.QC‑8, not to mention books and a small candy shop – the Viaduktstrasse 41, 8Dammweg, tel. (+41) 43 205 22 aptly-named Lollipop. Your kids will absolutely love the 26, www.brankob.ch. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - slide that connects the first level with the ground floor. 18:00. Closed Sun. QF‑12, Bahnhofplatz 9, 8Bahnhofplatz/HB, tel. (+41) 44 225 78 78, www.fcw.ch. Open 09:00 - 20:00, MICHAEL KORS ZURICH Sat 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. This is the Zurich boutique of the New York-born fashion designer Michael Kors. His internationally renowned brand is known for its ready-to-wear fashion for men and women, MANOR its watches, shoes, accessories and even perfumes. His Manor is probably the most casual of the trinity of style can probably best be described as a mix of modern department stores on Bahnhofstrasse (besides Globus chic and timeless elegance.QF‑12, Bahnhofstrasse 54, and Jelmoli). It specialises in young and casual fashion 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 43 497 30 90, www.michaelkors.ch. and sells its own brands as well as brands of renown - Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. they have something for everyone’s needs. Besides that, there are departments for beauty, sports, household and home electronics. And last but not least a very popular and excellent self-service restaurant on the top floor. QF‑12, Bahnhofstrasse 75, 8Bahnhofstrasse, tel. (+41) 44 229 56 99, www.manor.ch. Open 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.

Toy Store

Find colourful dresses by Zurich-based designer Genevieve Monnet at Tooché. PD MODISSA Modissa does elegant business dress and evening attire for women. The choice on the four storeys of their recently renovated Bahnhofstrasse branch is huge. The local company is still family-owned and runs its own exclusive fashion lines and well-known brands like Angels, Boss Women and Gerry Weber, to name just a few. On the more casual side, they have knitted garments mostly of exclusive materials like silk and cashmere. Their alteration studio offers quick and accurate service.QF‑12, Bahnhofstrasse Welcome to the most famous 74, 8Bahnhofstrasse / HB, tel. (+41) 44 217 74 74, paradise of toys for children, www.modissa.ch. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. since 1881. NEW Bahnhofplatz 9 • 8001 Zürich TOOCHÉ This is the boutique of Zurich-based designer Genevieve 044 225 78 78 • fcw.ch Monnet. Inspired by international fashion shows, she focuses on dresses, jackets and other women’s apparel 42 Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com Shopping

AIRSIDE CENTER AT Time to take up sport again Zurich airport’s passenger area is a shopping centre too. And quite a large one, in fact: more than 60 shops are located in the Airside Center which is accessible only to passengers. Here you can find literally anything you might be looking for. Be it Swiss watches, fashion or souvenirs, it’s all there, Swiss as well as international brands. In the Zürich Duty Bahnhofstrasse 56 and Free Stores you can buy a varied range of perfumes Limmatquai 78 in Zurich. and cosmetics, tobacco products, spirits, wines and www.ochsport.ch chocolate creations from Lindt, Cailler or Toblerone. The restaurants and bars serving Swiss and international specialities make the Airside Center complete. So if you arrive at the airport early - don’t worry. You can use theOCH_60x45_Anz_ZH_Pocket_e.indd OUTDOOR CLOTHING 1 05.07.16 15:33 time to hunt around for that last gift or souvenir - or & SPORTS Q have a fine meal before you take off! Zurich Airport, OCH SPORT www.flughafen-zuerich.ch/shopping. Open 06:00 - At Och Sport you’ll find just about everything for any kind 22:00. Accessible only to passengers. of sports on three storeys: tennis, badminton, trekking, running, skiing, swimming and much more - they have it produced in small numbers in Italy, which are made all. On top of this huge choice, there is also fashion and of high-quality Italian fabrics. Surprisingly, all are quite outerwear - but sports definitely comes first here. Sister affordable. She also rents dresses and bags by famous shop at Limmatquai 78.QF‑12, Bahnhofstrasse 56, designers in case you need one for a special occasion. 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 215 21 21, www.ochsport.ch. QG‑13, Strehlgasse 3, 8Patadeplatz / Rathaus, tel. Open 09:00 - 19:00, Thu 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00. (+41) 44 221 97 97, www.tooche.ch. Open 10:00 - 18:30, Closed Sun. Thu 10:00 - 20:00, Fri 09:30 - 18:30, Sat 09:30 - 17:00. Closed Sun. NEW LULULEMON MALLS Canadian brand lululemon does colourful, casual sports apparel especially for yoga and running for & SHOPPING CENTRES both men and women. That said, you’ll also find IM VIADUKT something suitable here if you’re into fitness training, More than 30 shops and a market hall for groceries nestled water sports, cycling and the like all presented by staff under the arches of a railway viaduct built in the 19th with characteristically North American smiles. You can century. Not a classic shopping mall but a street with one even sign up for free yoga lessons every Saturday at shop after another. The emphasis is on small and trendy www.facebook.com/lululemonzurich.Q G‑13, fashion labels, studios and concept stores rather than the Marktgasse 12, 8Rathaus, tel. (+41) 43 243 78 81, big luxury brands. In the market hall, more than 30 vendors www.lululemon.ch. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - offer their goods, like fresh food and cured meats.QD‑8, 19:00. Closed Sun. Limmatstrasse 259, 8Dammweg, www.im-viadukt.ch. Closed Sun.

oberdorfstrasse 13 . 8001 zürich . www.stefitalman.ch

facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket February – March 2018 43 Shopping the trucks on the neighbouring ‘highway’-bridge across Zurich – and be inspired just as the Freitag brothers were when they had the same view from the window of their living room in the early 90s.QB‑8, Geroldstrasse 17, 8Schiffbau, tel. (+41) 43 366 95 20, www.freitag.ch. Open 10:30 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.

SWISS FABRICS BOUTIQUE CHRISTIAN FISCHBACHER For nearly 200 years this family-owned Swiss company has produced fine fabrics for luxurious interiors. Drop by its Zurich boutique to find everything from finest bed linen, duvets, pillows and cushions to carpets, accessories and bath textiles. All of the standard sizes are available here, but the staff can also take custom orders. They’ll also be happy to help you Luxury Bedding find the perfect interior fabrics to match your personality and your home.QF‑13, Kappelergasse 11, 8Börsenstrasse, tel. (+41) 44 211 57 47, www.fischbacher.com. Open 09:00 - 18:30, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.

FABRIC FRONTLINE Exquisite foulards, scarfs, ties and coats all made of Kappelergasse 11 coloured, patterned silk, is what the Swiss family business 8001 Zürich Fabric Frontline specialises in. You can find it all in their store +41 44 211 57 47 in the covered courtyard of the Credit Suisse building at Paradeplatz.QF‑13, Bahnhofstrasse 25, 8Paradeplatz, WWW.FISCHBACHER.COM tel. (+41) 44 222 20 00, www.fabricfrontline.ch. Open 10:00 - 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. SHOES & ACCESSORIES STEFI TALMAN Swiss designer Stefi Talman built her reputation in the 1980ies with a half boot called Zip featuring a zipper crossing the instep at an angle. Her collections of shoes and bags for women are still remarkable and are on offer in her own boutique in the upper part of the old town.QG‑13, Oberdorfstrasse 13, 8Bellevue, tel. (+41) 44 252 81 10, www.stefitalman.ch. Open 10:00 - 18:30, Mon 12:00 - 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun, closed February 12 - 21, 2018 for renovations.

MCM BOUTIQUE MCM stands for luxury bags, backpacks, wallets and accessories designed with a certain twist: lots of rivets, colourful subjects and high quality materials - the latest chic, Stefi Talman: not just shoes, but wallets and belts too. PD one might say.QF‑13, Münsterhof 13, 8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41) 44 368 16 06, www.mcmworldwide.com. Open 09:30 - 18:30, Sat 09:30 - 17:00. Closed Sun. SWISS FOOD GLOBUS DELICATESSA In the basement of the Globus department store you’ll SWISS DESIGN find almost any kind of food imaginable, be it organic FREITAG Swiss cheese, meat specialities from across the country or The Freitag brothers produce all kinds of bags made out of perfectly ripe exotic fruit from around the world. It’s not old truck tarpaulins and used seat belts from cars. They‘ve only Swiss produce, but we are almost certain you will been at it since 1993 and with great success. The flagship find every Swiss delicacy you might be looking for. Not store is made of 17 old freight containers stacked up to a cheap shop, but with an impressive diversity.QF‑11, make a tower, so you can choose from hundreds of bags Schweizergasse 11, 8Bahnhofstrasse, tel. (+41) 58 578 on four floors. From the top of the tower you can spot 11 11, www.globus.ch. Open 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. 44 Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com Shopping

TEDDY’S SOUVENIR-SHOP At Teddy’s they have a wide range of souvenirs and gifts. Whether it’s watches, cowbells, hats, music boxes, soft toys, pocket knives or clothes you’re after: you’ll find it all at their shop on Limmatquai, just next to the church Grossmünster. And it’s not just souvenirs of Zurich, like beer glasses with the city’s coat of arms, but from all over Switzerland. For example the sännechutte, a traditional shirt worn by alpine herdsmen since days of yore. And yes, this souvenir shop is open even on Sundays.QG‑13, Limmatquai 34, 8Helmhaus, tel. (+41) 44 261 22 89, www.teddyssouvenirshop.ch. MENG CUTLERY Open 08:30 - 20:00, Sat 08:30 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - Meng Cutlery just off Bahnhofstrasse offers classic Swiss 17:00, Nov - March Sun 11:00 - 17:00. souvenirs such as army knives by the famous brand Victorinox. Also in stock: other knives, scissors, watches and NEW more ideas for gifts to take home. Sister shop at Poststrasse HILTL VEGETARIAN BUTCHERY 4 (E-4).QF‑12, Rennweg 31, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 In this so-called ‘vegetarian butchery’ and grocery store 211 18 48, www.mengcutlery.ch. Open 09:00 - 18:30, you can buy sausages, cordon bleu, tartar and even Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. Geschnetzeltes (needed to prepare the local speciality Züri Gschnetzeltes), but it’s all vegetarian or even vegan, MESSER-SCHARF made with meat alternatives such as tofu, seitan (wheat Pocket knives are part of Swiss cultural heritage, and gluten) and tempeh (soy cakes). Even more surprising is messer-scharf takes great pride in this heritage. You’ll that all of this stuff is quite tasty. After all, Hiltl has over 100 find an extensive range of knives and other products years of experience in vegetarian food, which you can also by Victorinox and Wenger, such as kitchen implements, sample at one of its many restaurants in the city.QF‑12, watches or rucksacks. messer-scharf also stock high-end St. Annagasse 18, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 227 70 27, kitchen knives by Chroma.QG‑13, Oberdorfstrasse www.hiltl.ch. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. 25, 8Helmhaus, tel. (+41) 44 251 01 20, www.messer-scharf.ch. Open 09:30 - 19:00, Sat 09:30 - SOUVENIRS 18:00. Closed Sun. DOLMETSCH SCHWEIZER HEIMATWERK They offer classic Swiss souvenirs and gifts such as the Swiss handcrafted souvenirs of high quality: fashion Swiss army knives from Victorinox, many watch brands as accessories, toys, bells, books and fondue sets all with lots well as a large choice of Swiss T-Shirts and outdoor fashion. of Swiss crosses, red and white colours, cows and edelweiss. Free engraving service on Victorinox knives for customers. Sister shop at Bahnhofstrasse 2.QG‑12, Uraniastrasse Sister shop Swiss Shop 1291 at ShopVille underground 1, 8Rudolf-Brun-Brücke, tel. (+41) 44 222 19 55, at the main railway station.QG‑11, Limmatquai 126, www.heimatwerk.ch. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 8Central, tel. (+41) 44 251 55 44, www.dolmetsch.ch. 18:00. Closed Sun. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00.

Swiss Shop 1291 funny Swiss souvenirs and Swiss Entrance Bahnhofstrasse textiles. We have largest range Limmatquai 126, 8001 Zürich 8001 Zürich, Shop Ville of Victorinox famous Swiss tel. +41 44 251 55 44 tel. +41 44 211 61 32 knives and engrave all knives www.swiss-shop-1291.ch www.swiss-shop-1291.ch for free in our shops within few minutes. We also sell most famous Swiss made watches.

Auswahl an Souvenirs und Schweizer T-Shirts, sowie Victorinox Taschenmesser und Swiss Made Uhren. Wir gravieren bei uns gekaufte Messer kostenlos vor Ihren Augen.

facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket February – March 2018 45 Watches & Jewellery Switzerland is the country of watches - yet another cliché? Actually, it couldn’t be more true. More than 95% TAX FREE SHOPPING of all watches with a value of over 1000Sfr are made in Switzerland! The Swiss watch industry started off in Geneva As a foreign resident you are entitled around 1600, founded by Huguenots who had fled France. to a refund when making purchases Zurich however is a prime shopping spot for watches today. for more than 300Sfr (including VAT), Whether on busy Bahnhofstrasse or in a quieter corner, you provided the goods leave the country will find a huge selection of brands and models here. The within 30 days. You will get back the next couple of pages will guide you! VAT, which in Switzerland is only 8% - minus a handling fee. It’s as easy BEYER WATCHES & JEWELLERY as this: watch out for the Global Blue - Tax Free sign. For more than 250 years Beyer has been selling and When paying, ask for a tax refund form. When leaving repairing watches. The family business specializes in selling Switzerland, present your purchases, receipts and some of the world’s most sought-after brands, such as Patek passport to Swiss customs officials. They will stamp Philippe, Rolex, Breguet, Hublot, IWC, Chopard and Cartier, your tax refund form. To claim an immediate refund, as well as its own Beyer brand.QF‑13, Bahnhofstrasse 31, present your stamped tax refund form at a Global 8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41) 43 344 63 63, www.beyer-ch. Blue refund point (e.g. at Zurich Airport or all around com. Open 09:30 - 18:30, Sat 09:30 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Europe). For more infos see www​.global-blue​.com.

BUCHERER Heuer, Certina, Frederique Constant and their very own Jewellery and Swiss watch boutique established in 1888. Top CHRIST Swiss Made as well as many fashion jewels. There brands like Rolex, IWC, Longines and Rado as well as their are sister shops at the department stores St. Annahof own brand Carl F. Bucherer.QF‑12, Bahnhofstrasse 50, (Bahnhofstrasse 57, F-12), Jelmoli (Seidengasse 1, F-12) 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 211 26 35, www.bucherer.com. and the shopping centre Sihlcity (Kalanderplatz 1, C-16). Open 09:30 - 19:00, Sat 09:30 - 17:00. Closed Sun. QF‑12, Bahnhofstrasse 78, 8Bahnhofstrasse, tel. (+41) 44 212 14 47, www.christ-swiss.ch. Open 09:00 - 19:00, CHRIST WATCHES & JEWELRY Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. With more than 70 shops, CHRIST is the biggest jeweler in Switzerland. Find top watch brands like Rado, Tag NEW FATA MORGANA Fata Morgana specialises in fairly produced and traded jewellery, automatic watches by residence as well as all kinds of accessories and even lamps and interior design items. It stocks for example imaginative collections by Auryn Jewels and silver jewellery for men by D’Oz Hommes, not to mention handmade Indonesian pieces by E’Kollektion. All of it is presented in a unique way in this lovely shop on Champagne for everyone Limmatquai.QLimmatquai 36, 8Helmhaus, tel. (+41) 44 262 18 06, www.fata-morgana.ch/. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.

NEW GELLNER & FRIENDS This is jewellery manufacturer Gellner’s flagship store in Switzerland and here it’s all about cultured pearls. The collection includes elegant earrings, bracelets, necklaces and daring rings, all designed and handmade at the factory. Apart from Gellner’s very own pieces, the shop also sells jewellery by Danish designer Ole Lynggaard, Dutch brand Minitials and renowned watches by Nomos Glashütte. QF‑12, Strehlgasse 27, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 552 24 03, www.gellnerandfriends.ch. Open 10:00 - 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 17:00.

GÜBELIN Since 1854 Gübelin have been selling jewellery, watches and precious stones. You will find their Strehlgasse 27 | 8001 Zürich | gellnerandfriends.ch own jewellery lines New York, Madagascar, Paris and Atlantis as well as many renowned watch brands such 46 Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com

AZ_Gellner_NOMOS_AtWork_Zuerichinyourpocket_60x90.indd17.01.18 1 09:51 Watches & Jewellery as IWC Schaffhausen and Jaeger-LeCoultre.QF‑13, Bahnhofstrasse 36, 8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41) 44 387 52 20, www.guebelin.ch. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:30. Closed Sun.

KURZ JEWELLERY AND WATCHES Kurz have a large selection of jewellery e.g. by Chopard and from their own workshops, as well as a broad range of mainly Swiss watch brands like Omega, Zenith, Maurice W W! Lacroix, Tissot, Rado and many more (sister shop at Globus, Schweizergasse 11, outlet store on Uraniastrasse 26). Welcome to Switzerland’s QF‑12, Bahnhofstrasse 80, 8Bahnhofstrasse/HB, tel. first destination for watches and jewelry with a selection of (+41) 44 219 77 77, www.kurzschmuckuhren.ch. Open more than 50 exclusive brands. 09:15 - 18:30, Sat 09:15 - 17:00. Closed Sun.

LES AMBASSADEURS Find a large selection of Swiss watches and jewellery at Les Ambassadeurs store. They have long established partnerships with leading brands such as Audemars Piguet, Blancpain, Breguet, Breitling, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Jaquet Droz, Longines, Vacheron Constantin, Omega as well as Pasquale Bruni and Pomellato. Their sales staff provide expert advice in many languages.QF‑12, Bahnhofstrasse 64, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 227 17 17, www.lesambassadeurs.ch. Open 09:30 - 19:00, Sat 09:30 - 17:00. Closed Sun.

Les Ambassadeurs is one of many watch boutiques on Bahnhofstrasse. PD

MONTBLANC ZURICH Watches, writing instruments and leather goods is what built Montblanc’s world renown. In their exquisite boutique on Bahnhofstrasse you will find the personal service you can expect of a brand like Montblanc.QF‑13,

Bahnhofstrasse 25, 8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41) 44 211 48 www.christ-swiss.ch 10, www.montblanc.ch. Open 09:30 - 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.

PARTIME This Swiss designer watch simultaneously shows the time of day and how much of the day is left. The blue area within a circle represents the amount of time still remaining in the day, while a white area gradually eats into the blue. Find it at Teddy’s Souvenir Shop and the retailers indicated on page 48, order it in the webshop, or ask for an express delivery to your hotel.QG‑13, Teddy’s Souvenir Shop, Limmatquai INTERLAKEN | LUZERN | ZÜRICH | GENF | LAUSANNE | MONTREUX | LOCARNO 34, tel. (+41) 43 422 00 11, www.partimewatch.com. facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket February – March 2018 47

149-111703_Anzeige_InYourPocket_60x185.indd 1 05.01.17 13:43 Watches Limmatquai 140 Limmatquai Limmatquai 32 Limmatquai Bahnhofstrasse 31 Bahnhofstrasse Limmatquai 82 Max, Limmatquai Affolter 1 Bahnhofstrasse Airbijoux, Beyer, 50 Bahnhofstrasse Bucherer, 31 Bahnhofstrasse Breguet, 25 Bulgari, Bahnhofstrasse 6 Cartier Pelikanstrasse Joailliers, Jewellery, Central 40 Bahnhofstrasse Boutique, Chopard 78 Bahnhofstrasse Christ, Jelmoli, Seidengasse 1 Christ at Schmuck, 1 Christian Uhren Limmatplatz 126 Dolmetsch, Limmatquai 45 Seefeldstrassse Daniel, Feist Galli, Theaterstrasse 16 27 Strehlgasse Gellner & Friends, 36 G ü belin, Bahnhofstrasse Heinicke, 61 Schaffhausen,IWC Bahnhofstrasse 80 Bahnhofstrasse Kurz, 25 Bahnhofstrasse La Serlas, 64 Bahnhofstrasse Ambassadeurs, Les 33 Bahnhofstrasse Uhren, Meister 4 Poststrasse Meng Cutlery, 31 Rennweg Meng Cutlery, Oberdorfstrasse 25 messer-scharf, 48 Bahnhofstrasse Omega Boutique, 5 Gerbergasse Oscar Stahel, 31 Bahnhofstr. Philippe Boutique, Patek 17 Bahnhofstrasse Boutique, Rolex 52 Bahnhofstrasse Store, Swatch 14 Bahnhofstrasse Co, & Tiffany 94 Bahnhofstrasse Boutique, Tissot 58 Rennweg Store, Flagship Victorinox 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 A. Lange & Söhne • • Audemars Piguet • Balmain • Baume & Mercier • • • • • Bell & Ross • Beyer • Blancpain • • Breguet • • • Breitling • • • • Bulgari • Cartier • • • • Certina • • • • • Charriol • Chopard • • • • Corum • • De Grisogono • Ebel • • • • • Eterna • • • Franck Muller • • Girard Perregaux • • Hublot • • • IWC Schaffhausen • • • • • • • Jaquet Droz • • Jaeger-LeCoultre • • • • • Jowissa • • • Longines • • • • • • • Louis Erard • • • • • • Maurice Lacroix • • • • Mido • • • • • Mondaine • • • • • • • • Movado • • • • Nomos Glashütte • • Omega • • • • Oris • • Parmigiani Fleurier • • Patek Philippe • • • Piaget • • Quinting • Rado • • • • • • • Raymond Weil • • • Rolex • • • Swatch • • • Swiss Military • • • • • • • • • TAG Heuer • • • • • • Tiffany • Tissot • • • • • • • • • • • Ulysse Nardin • • • Urwerk • Victorinox Swiss Army • • • • • • Vulcain • • Wenger • • • Zenith • • Zurich Partime • • • • • • 48 Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com Watches Limmatquai 140 Limmatquai Limmatquai 32 Limmatquai Bahnhofstrasse 31 Bahnhofstrasse

Limmatquai 82 Max, Limmatquai Affolter 1 Bahnhofstrasse Airbijoux, Beyer, 50 Bahnhofstrasse Bucherer, 31 Bahnhofstrasse Breguet, 25 Bulgari, Bahnhofstrasse 6 Cartier Pelikanstrasse Joailliers, Jewellery, Central 40 Bahnhofstrasse Boutique, Chopard 78 Bahnhofstrasse Christ, Jelmoli, Seidengasse 1 Christ at Schmuck, 1 Christian Uhren Limmatplatz 126 Dolmetsch, Limmatquai 45 Seefeldstrassse Daniel, Feist Galli, Theaterstrasse 16 27 Strehlgasse Gellner & Friends, 36 G ü belin, Bahnhofstrasse Heinicke, 61 Schaffhausen,IWC Bahnhofstrasse 80 Bahnhofstrasse Kurz, 25 Bahnhofstrasse La Serlas, 64 Bahnhofstrasse Ambassadeurs, Les 33 Bahnhofstrasse Uhren, Meister 4 Poststrasse Meng Cutlery, 31 Rennweg Meng Cutlery, Oberdorfstrasse 25 messer-scharf, 48 Bahnhofstrasse Omega Boutique, 5 Gerbergasse Oscar Stahel, 31 Bahnhofstr. Philippe Boutique, Patek 17 Bahnhofstrasse Boutique, Rolex 52 Bahnhofstrasse Store, Swatch 14 Bahnhofstrasse Co, & Tiffany 94 Bahnhofstrasse Boutique, Tissot 58 Rennweg Store, Flagship Victorinox ZÜRICH BAHNHOFSTRASSE 64 +41 44 227 17 17 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 WWW.LESAMBASSADEURS.CH A. Lange & Söhne • • Audemars Piguet • Balmain • Zürich Hauptbahnhof e i Baume & Mercier e a • • • • • ll a B u r a q Bell & Ross e hn f • n ho o s fpl Bahn h Beyer s atz Bah • e nhofbr. Blancpain G B • • Sc a h h G ütz e e n Breguet s . ng 8 • • • r . . h sn t e g o r s r Breitling f b n • • • • r. e 31 q e h u c Bulgari w a s

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B S Swiss Military • • • • • • • • • . TAG Heuer • • • • • • 2 Tiffany • Dreikönigstr. Stadthaus- Tissot anlage br. • • • • • • • • • • • Quai Ulysse Nardin • • • 13 . Urwerk B tr • ds Bürkliplatz e ar Victorinox Swiss Army e th • • • • • • t t h o o G Vulcain • • v e n Wenger • • • s t r Zenith • • . Lake Zurich Zurich Partime • • • • • • facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket February – March 2018 49 Zurich Nord The part of the city behind the two hills Käferberg and QEllen-Widmann-Weg 2, 8Bahnhof Oerlikon, tel. Zürichberg is commonly referred to as Zürich Nord. The (+41) 43 538 42 47, www.kaibar.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:00, districts 7, 11 and 12 used to be independent villages and 17:30 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 17:30 - 23:00, Kitchen open until merged with the city in 1934. Close to the airport they are 22:00. €€. A­ now home to many international companies, the trade fair, some hotels and more and more restaurants and bars. You LE MUH (SWISSÔTEL) definitely don’t have to go to the city centre to have a good The setting here is modern and really enjoyable, night out. somewhere between business and casual - but definitely a far cry from the cowshed atmosphere the name might imply. The cuisine matches the interior: a modern take on RESTAURANTS Swiss and international dishes. The menu changes weekly GIESSEREI OERLIKON and most ingredients are sourced locally. Neither the prime The Giesserei has made itself a name as a fine dining burger nor the tartar gave us any reason whatsoever to restaurant, though the place still has a feel like the last complain.QG‑1, Schulstrasse 44, 8Bahnhof Oerlikon, workers just left this ancient foundry a couple of weeks tel. (+41) 44 317 33 91, www.lemuh.ch. Open 06:30 - ago. The menu is simple: every day there are a few different 24:00. €€. A­ starters, main courses and desserts - an international mix according to the season and the desires of the kitchen crew (3 courses approx. 40 - 80Sfr). Recommended.QF‑2, Birchstrasse 108, 8Regensbergerbrücke, tel. (+41) 43 205 10 10, www.diegiesserei.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:00, 17:30 - 24:00, Sat 17:30 - 24:00, Sun closed. €€. A­

KAI Close to the Oerlikon train station, the Kai is a classic sushi bar with a modern and stylish decor complete with conveyor belt: sit at the counter and grab one of the maki, nigiri or uramaki running by. There are tables as well and a lot more than just sushi... Sunday night there is all you can eat sushi for 69Sfr - book seats in advance.

Giesserei is steeped in industrial charm. PD NIGHTLIFE

COOPER’S PUB PERRON 9 Located just next to Oerlikon train station (and in The culinary concept at Perron 9 is focussed on high quality walking distance of the Swissôtel and the Courtyard meat - entrecôte, roast chicken, or something from the Marriott), the Cooper’s with its whiskey barrels and charcoal grill - and includes some nice touches of traditional dark wooden floor and panels, brings an Irish pub feel Alpine cuisine, like sauerkraut or pumpkin seeds. You’ll also to this part of town. They of course have Murphy’s Red find fish or vegetarian dishes on the menu. The industrial- and Guinness on tap, all the sports on TV and serve age rooms with the cast-iron pillars make for a pleasing really affordable burgers (13 - 21Sfr). There are also surrounding.QG‑1, Affolternstr. 52, 8Bahnhof Oerlikon, fish & chips, pies and salads on the menu. Occasionally tel. (+41) 43 288 94 45, www.perron9.ch. Open 11:30 - concerts. Cheers!QH‑1, Schaffhauserstrasse 359, 14:00, 18:00 - 24:00, Sat 18:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon, Sun, 8Sternen Oerlikon, tel. (+41) 76 261 00 30, bistro Gleis 9 open daily 10:00 - 24:00. €€. A­ www.coopers-pub.ch. Open 15:00 - 24:00, Fri 15:00 - 02:00, Sat 13:30 - 02:00, Sun 13:30 - 22:00. K TIBITS OERLIKON The bounteous vegetarian buffet is also the focal point of JAIME EL BARCO the tibits branch in Zurich Nord. Choose from around 40 The Jaime is a bar with a South American touch in homemade salads, hot daily specials, soups, sandwiches Zurich Nord, just next to the Courtyard Marriott. Hot and sweets. Take it from us, it’s more than just tasty and many panini for a snack, a frozen daiquiri or a margarita from of the dishes are actually not just vegetarian, but vegan. the cocktail menu or a beer will cheer you up after a The colourful wallpaper and the modern designer lamps hard day of walking or working. There is table football make for the typical airy urban tibits atmosphere. A kids’ and darts - quite some entertainment in this part of corner is available in the basement and, yes, all the food can the city.QOtto-Schütz-Weg 5, 8Bahnhof Oerlikon, be ordered as takeaway.QH‑1, Tramstrasse 2, 8Sternen tel. (+41) 44 310 21 70, www.jaime.ch. Open 09:00 - Oerlikon, tel. (+41) 44 317 25 55, www.tibits.ch. 14:00, 16:00 - 24:00. Closed Sat, Sun. E Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sat 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. €. A­ 50 Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com Leisure If you’d like to escape the winter cold, there are plenty of things to do in and around Zurich. Show your friends and FUN & GAMES colleagues who’s boss with a competitive game of laser tag or show off your smarts in an escape room. The Zurich LASER ARENA Zoo also is a safe bet, especially its Masoala Rainforest hall Yay! Zurich finally has laser tag! Hide behind obstacles where a temperature of 25°C is guaranteed. on different floors and tag as many of your opponents with your laser gun as possible to score points. But watch out, or you might get tagged yourself. That said, it’s worth mentioning that unlike paintball, this is a completely harmless game, so no protective gear is required. All you need is a laser gun and a sensor on your chest to play. The Laser Arena is a big space that can accommodate up to 24 players and you can play with two big teams or split up into smaller groups. A game lasts 12 minutes and the person or team with the highest score wins. Make a reservation on its website or just drop by to have some great laser fun with friends, family or colleagues.QD‑15, Brandschenkestrasse 178, 8Waffenplatzstrasse, tel. (+41) 848 31 23 12, www.laser-arena.ch. Open Wed 14:00 - 22:00, Thu An elephant takes a dip at the Zurich Zoo. Jean-Luc Grossmann 18:00 - 22:00, Fri 18:00 - 23:00, Sat 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon, Tue. One 12-minute game costs 15Sfr for adults and 12Sfr for children under 16 ANIMAL PARKS years. Book more than two games and get a discount. ZURICH ZOO Zurich Zoo is located on Zürichberg high above the city. The ZURICHESCAPE pride of this zoological garden, which was opened in 1929, Escape games seem to be popping up all over the place. is the Masoala Rainforest hall, simulating the ecosystem The basic idea is simple. You and your team are locked in the Masoala National Park in Madagascar across some in a room and have 60 minutes to reach the exit. You 10,000m2. Animals like lemurs or giant tortoises can move achieve this by solving puzzles, finding hidden objects freely around in the hall as you watch and walk by on a path and working together as a team. At ZurichEscape you can through the forest. Keep your eyes peeled, a chameleon choose between three different rooms, each with its own might be sitting on a branch right next to you. But the theme. In addition to this, it also offers both indoor and rainforest is not the only thing worth seeing. Since 1992 outdoor escape missions. For these you’ll have to leave Zurich Zoo has gradually been changing the traditional- the premises to solve the riddles and accomplish the style enclosures into whole ecosystems which better meet task. Games are meant for two to six players. No German the animals’ needs. An Indian dry forest for the lions, a is needed as solutions are primarily found using symbols Eurasian wetland, Himalayan mountains (snow leopards, and numbers and the rules are explained in English wolves, a Siberian tiger) and African mountains (gelada beforehand. Book a time slot on its website.QD‑11, monkeys, Nubian ibex) have already been opened, the Zeughausstrasse 51, 8Sihlpost/Hauptbahnhof, tel. latest being the all-new 11,000m2 elephant park.QL-10, (+41) 43 317 19 19, www.zurichescape.ch. First game Zürichbergstrasse 221, 8Zoo, tel. (+41) 848 96 69 83, starts daily 10:00, last one at 20:00. Book slots on its www.zoo.ch. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Nov - Feb open 09:00 website. Prices start at 90Sfr and depend on the room, - 17:00. Masoala hall opens all year at 10:00. Admission the time and the size of the group. 26/21(16 - 20 years)/13Sfr, free for kids up to 5 years.

WHY DO YOU PLAY LASER TAG? BECAUSE PLAYING LASER TAG IS AWESOME!

Brandschenkestrasse 178 8002 Zürich

facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket February – March 2018 51 Winter joys In winter, Zurich is often covered by a thick layer of high-altitude fog. That doesn’t sound very pleasant, but in MOUNTAINS & SKI RESORTS fact fog is way better than clouds in Switzerland as all you CHÄSERRUGG have to do in this case to get some sun is to climb a nearby Chäserrugg is an easy-to-reach mountain in the mountain. Or even better: ski it. There are many resorts so Toggenburg, a beautiful valley in the canton of St. Gallen. close to Zurich that it’s worth going to one just for the day. At a height of 2,262m you’re afforded a great view of the These resorts listed here open as soon as there is enough Grison Alps and Lake Walensee and on a perfectly clear day snow, usually by the end of November or mid-December. you can see as many as six different countries from here. Always check the conditions before you leave. The Swiss The station on top is an impressive wood construction Federal Railways SBB offer combined tickets (including train designed by renowned Swiss architects Herzog & de and bus travel and the lift pass) to many of these resorts. Meuron and it includes a restaurant. The new cable car Stöfeli-Bahn with its three stations is another masterpiece by Herzog & de Meuron. Chäserrugg, which is part of the THERMAL BATHS Toggenburg ski area, boasts a total of 17 lifts and is a good & HAMMAMS destination for kids as well as experienced skiers. By car it’s a little over an hour from Zurich and public transport will get you to the beginning of the cable car in Unterwasser in less than two hours (change to a bus in Buchs SG). Mount Chäserrugg is also an option if you don’t ski as there are also sledge runs and marked walking paths.QDorfstr. 17, Unterwasser, tel. (+41) 71 998 68 10, www.chaeserrugg. ch. Day pass 59/51/27Sfr, on weekends 62/53/33Sfr.

Hammam Münstergasse HAMMAM MÜNSTERGASSE This hammam, a Turkish-style steam bath, is perfect if you and your body need a break. In about two hours you will progress through different rooms and clean your body with steam, rub your skin with a peeling glove and purge yourself - luckily, you get to rest in between the different steps. Finish off with an oil or foam massage or one of the other treatments available. QG‑13, Blaufahnenstrasse 3, 8Helmhaus, tel. The iconic summit station on Chäserrugg. PD (+41) 44 259 81 82, www.fitnesspark.ch. Open 09:00 - 21:45, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 19:45, Last admission ELM 2hours before closing time. 43Sfr, treatments cost In a little less than two hours, public transport gets you to extra. Elm, deep in the mountains of the canton . Six lifts and more than 40 kilometres of slopes await you there, as THERMALBAD & SPA ZÜRICH well as a kids zone, a sledge run and a snowpark. Elm is also Zurich’s only thermal bath is located in the buildings known as a good spot for freeriding. And it’s the home of that once were home to the brewery Hürlimann in the probably most famous Swiss ski star of all times, Vreni Zurich Enge using the spring water that was once sold Schneider. She collected 3 Olympic gold medals in the 80s for drinking as Aqui. There are different pools, some of and 90s. Nowadays she runs a skiing school in Elm, so watch them in the old stone cellars as well as an outdoor area out, she might swing down the hill just in front of you. on the rooftop open all year, with a view over the city QElm, tel. (+41) 55 642 61 61, www.sportbahnenelm.ch. and towards the Alps. Besides whirlpools, massage jets Daypass 48/36/24Sfr. and resting zones there is a Irish-Roman Spa area with ten different stations like a peeling niche or herbal steam HOCH-YBRIG for complete relaxation (extra fee applies).QC‑15, Accessible by car in an hour and by public transport in Brandschenkestrasse 150, 8Waffenplatzstrasse, 90 minutes (change train at Wädenswil and to a bus in tel. (+41) 44 205 96 50, www.thermalbad-zuerich.ch. Einsiedeln), Hoch-Ybrig is one of the favourite day-trip ski Open 09:00 - 22:00. Admission 36/18Sfr, children up destinations for Zurchers. Twelve ski and chair lifts take you to 6 years free. up to almost 2,000 metres above sea level. There is a rental shop at the top of the first cable car and a snowpark with 52 Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com Winter joys many kicks and rails - fun for snowboarders and skiers alike. You can also simply go for a walk in the sun on a prepared path at the top of the cable car.QWaagtalstrasse 127, Unteriberg, tel. (+41) 55 414 60 60, www.hoch-ybrig.ch. Day pass 53/48/30Sfr.

TITLIS - ENGELBERG Engelberg is the biggest resort in central Switzerland. Its top attraction is Mount Titlis: a rotating gondola takes you up to more than 3,000 metres above sea level. There you get a spectacular view, a glacier and some steep slopes that lead back down to the village of Engelberg, 2,000 metres below. Besides Mount Titlis there are 82 kilometres of slopes suitable for beginners as well as experienced skiers, snow trekking paths and cross country ski runs. Several Melted cheese and a city tour: that’s the Fondue tram. PD shops have gear for rent. The train ride from Zurich takes just under two hours (change at Luzern).QPoststrasse 3, LABO SPA Engelberg, tel. (+41) 41 639 50 50, www.titlis.ch. Day You really need to relax? Then this might be just the thing pass 65/46/26Sfr. for you. At Labo Spa they offer a full range of massages, aroma therapies, peelings, purifying and relaxation WINTER ACTIVITIES treatments including some things we didn’t even know existed. They also do so-called rituals, including some for IN THE CITY two. For some quality time with your loved one try e.g. FONDUE CRUISE the ‘Be my Valentine’, a relaxing bath ritual followed by Every Tuesday and Thursday evening at 19:15 the Fondue an aromatherapy massage. Depilation and waxing is also Ship sets off for a 2.5 hour cruise on Lake Zurich. On available. Check website for all the treatments and book Tuesday the Swiss national dish cheese fondue is served, in advance by phone. And remember: relaxation doesn’t on Thursday fondue chinoise (meat) is on the menu. come for free.QE‑12, Talacker 41, 8Sihlstrasse, tel. Dinner while cruising the lake with a view of Zurich by (+41) 43 497 34 40, www.labospa.ch. Open 10:00 - night - not bad at all.QF‑14, Bürkliplatz, 8Bürkliplatz, 21:00, Sat & Sun 09:30 - 19:30. tel. (+41) 44 487 13 33, www.zsg.ch. Starts Tue and Thu 19:15 at Bürkliplatz, book in advance by phone. SAUNA SEEBAD ENGE Runs Oct 3 - March 27, 2018. Tickets 55/27.50 (cheese), This is no ordinary city sauna - at Seebad Enge the sauna is 80/40Sfr (meat). Fondue included, drinks and side located on a platform floating on Lake Zurich. So when it’s dishes extra. time to cool off, you can step out onto the pier and jump into the lake. There are three saunas, one only for women. Remember: nude areas for both sexes are common in MOUNTAIN TOURS Europe, and you usually enter saunas sans clothing, with the exception of a towel. Massages and other treatments BEST OF SWITZERLAND TOURS are available. A very pleasant option for spending a cold Day trips organised by tour winter evening.QF‑16, Mythenquai 9, 8Rentenanstalt, operators are an easy way to tel. (+41) 44 201 38 89, www.tonttu.ch. Open 11:00 explore Switzerland and its -23:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00, Mon women only (all three gorgeous mountains. Forget saunas), Sun only mixed, otherwise mixed/women. the hassle with timetables, Admission 29Sfr. itineraries and the like. Just snuggle into your bus seat and let them guide SKATING RINK HEURIED you through the day. Best of Switzerland tours for Enjoy ice skating an the all new Heuried sports centre example offers daily trips from Zurich to Pilatus, Rigi, on two large rinks (one indoors, though usually not Titlis and Jungfraujoch. For instance you can take the available to the public) close to the tram stop Heuried rotating gondola up to Titlis (more than 3000 metres (N°9 &14 direction Triemli/Heuried). You can also play a asl), where an encounter with ice, snow and a glacier game of ice hockey - just for fun - on the following days: await you. They also have a city tour to Luzern. Just Thu 20:15 - 22:00, Fri 20:00 - 22:00, Sat 19:15 - 22:00, Sun check their website for available tours and book up 17:15 - 19:15. There is a restaurant and skate rental on site. to a day before - online or by phone. The tour busses QWasserschöpfi 71, 8Heuried, tel. (+41) 44 455 51 61. leave from the Zurich Bus terminal Sihlquai, just Open Mon 09:00 - 16:00, Tue 09:00 - 18:00, Wed 09:00 - next to the Hauptbahnhof (main train station, F-10). 22:00, Thu 09:00 - 20:00, Fri 09:00 - 17:30, 20:00 - 22:00, Qwww.switzerland-tours.ch, tel. (+41) 44 710 50 50. Sat 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00, Open until March 11, 2018. Admission 8/6/4Sfr, rental skates 6Sfr. facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket February – March 2018 53 Queer Zurich Zurich is undoubtedly Switzerland’s gay and lesbian PETRA’S TIP TOP BAR capital and is in general quite queer-friendly. What better Chanson - or what is called schlager in German - is at the top proof than the election of lesbian Corinne Mauch as mayor of the menu here. But there’s enough Abba, Boney M and in 2009? Zurich’s vibrant queer scene was one of the driving what have you as well. Host Peter is well known - especially forces in creating today’s club culture. Of course, some of for his drag performances. A cosy place for some nostalgic the queer venues are cool places to hang out even if you’re merrymaking.QH‑12, Seilergraben 13, 8Neumarkt, hetero. tel. (+41) 44 251 78 20, www.tip-top-bar.ch. Open 18:30 - late. Closed Mon, Sun. Zurich’s queer calendar has several major events, all in spring or summer. For over ten years a Christopher Street PREDIGERHOF Day has been held in June. Called Zurich Pride Festival The Predigerhof in the centre of the Niederdorf area is a sure (June 15 - 17, 2018, www.zurichpridefestival.ch) today, this bet, open 365 days a year until two in the morning. Order is a huge event with parties, open-air bars and a colourful one of their sandwiches and a beer - or step it up a little and march through the city. In spring the Pink Apple film choose one of their champagnes. Maybe Lotti, the famed festival (May 2 - 10, 2018, www.pinkapple.ch) shows gay landlady, will join you. You can ask the Thai and Swiss staff for and lesbian films from all over the world and awards a prize tips for gay events - but maybe you’ll just want to stay here, to a young director. But the queer scene is also very lively, if they’re showing a game of soccer or the Eurovision song big events aside. Whether you’re looking for a gay-friendly contest.QG‑12, Mühlegasse 15, 8Rudolf-Brun Brücke, bar to relax in, gay and lesbian clubbing or venues of a tel. (+41) 44 251 29 85, www.predigerhof.ch. Open daily more raunchy kind, you’ll find it in Zurich. Check out the 14:00 - 02:00. A­ websites or ask in some of the bars too. CLUBS HEAVEN The Heaven is a cosy queer club featuring music from charts and house to more underground tastes like deep house. QG‑12, Spitalgasse 5, 8Rudolf-Brun-Brücke, www .heavenclub.ch. Open usually Fri & Sat 23:00 - 06:00.

RAGE Rage is a factory of a cruising club with all the works - darkrooms, slings, tubs and, of course, bars. Sector C is fetish pure, with a strict dresscode and changing themes. Only men are admitted. Get there by train to Schlieren station The Zurich Pride festival is an extravaganza. Zurich Tourism or with bus 31 to the stop Wagonsfabrik. Nightbuses on the weekend.QWagistrasse 13, Schlieren, www.rage.ch. BARS & CAFES Thu 19:00 - 01:00, Fri 22:00 - 04:00, Sat 22:00 - 05:00, Sun HELDENBAR 17:00 - 01:00. Admission 8-20Sfr. A ­X Here you’re off the beaten track and on the territory of the non-commercial gay scene. The Heldenbar (hero’s bar) which only comes alive on Wednesdays is a purely non-profit RESOURCES affair. Sometimes the DJs are professional, sometimes totally amateur, the style of music changes from week to week. If GAYMEBOYS.COM ONLINE MAGAZINE you don’t want to dance, step outside with your beer for a This is a Zurich-centred gay online community chat on the banks of the river Limmat just behind the venue. with English-language content. There’s a chat area, Or take up a table-football challenge.QD‑8, Provitreff, personals and a listing of up-coming events and info Sihlquai 240, 8Quellenstrasse, www.heldenbar.ch. on gay venues. It’s free, for some services you have to Open Wed 20:00 - 01:00. No admission. register.Qwww.gaymeboys.com. LGBT+ HELPLINE MÄNNERZONE LGBT+ Helpline offers telephone counselling and A gay sex shop with fetish articles during the week operates as a registration office for homophobic (Tue to Fri 12:00 - 19:00 and Sat 12:00 - 17:00), the violence. Counselling for non-emergency matters Männerzone (men’s zone) turns into a very popular gay is available Mon - Thu 19:00 - 21:00. In case of bar on Fridays and particularly Saturdays. It’s men only homophobic violence you can call 24hrs to report the and tends to be 30 and up, though there’s no official rule incident, or report the incident online. Counselling is on age. It’s strictly a bar, no dancing, which maybe fits in German but many counsellors speak at least some the many bearded, beary guys you’ll find here.QD‑11, English. It’s free to call. The number is (+41) 800 133 Kernstrasse 57, 8Helvetiaplatz, tel. (+41) 43 243 30 43, 133.Qtel. (+41) 800 133 133, www.lgbt-helpline.ch. www.maennerzone.ch. Open Fri & Sat 21:00 - 02:30. 54 Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com Hotels THE DOLDER GRAND SYMBOL KEY Set high above the city, the five-star superior Dolder Grand is probably the city’s most exclusive hotel. In 2008 British P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted architect Norman Foster added two meandering wings to the fairy-tale-castle main building from 1899 with its turrets T Child-friendly H Conference facilities and balconies. The result is an amazing mix of modernity R Internet in room U Facilities for the disabled and tradition. And no matter in which part of the hotel you book your room, the comfort and the amenities offered F Fitness centre L Parking on site are uncountable. Either modern design and generous floor-to-ceiling windows in the new wings or the sense of K Restaurant 8 Nearest tram station history in the main building. The sumptuous 4,000sqm in- D Sauna C Swimming pool house spa, the exquisite ballroom and art from Warhol to Dalì are just some of the elements that make this a truly 6 Animal friendly W Wi-fi connection extraordinary hotel.QKurhausstrasse 65, 8Römerhof, J City centre location tel. (+41) 44 456 60 00, fax (+41 ) 44 456 60 01, www.thedoldergrand.com. 175 Rooms. P­H­A­R­ 6­U­F­L­K­D­C­W hhhhh

Zurich is a business destination first and foremost - and hotel rates reflect that. From Friday night to Monday morning, prices often drop sharply. Why not take advantage of this and spend a weekend in one of the many four- and five-star hotels in the city? Despite this, accommodation in Zurich remains rather pricey and real budget accommodation is rare. But nevertheless there is something for any taste and almost any budget.

In Switzerland hotels are officially categorized with stars from one to five. The categorization is done by hotelleriesuisse, the national hoteliers association. A hotel The castle-like Dolder Grand, dressed for winter. Zeljko Gataric can also receive the supplement ‘superior’, indicating a higher level of service and quality. We list the hotels according to their official classification in the following UPMARKET categories: Cream of the Crop*****, Upmarket****, Mid- CENTRAL PLAZA range*** and Budget (0 to **). Outside this classification Central is in the name, and central it is indeed. The old we list pensions - usually small and with less services than town starts right in front of the main entrance. With a tram a hotel - and some of the hostels in town. Find more hotels junction next to the hotel, it’s not the quietest spot - but on www.zurich.inyourpocket.com. the triple glazing shuts out the city‘s noise. Standard rooms are rather small, but live up to the standard you can expect of a hotel of this class. There is free Wi-fi and wired internet. CREAM OF THE CROP Ask for a room with a view onto the river or one of the PARK HYATT ZURICH two-room junior suites. One of the suites even has a glass The luxury Park Hyatt built in 2004 in the middle of ceiling so you can watch the stars while you fall asleep. No Zurich’s business district will impress you. The very air-conditioning but an air cooling system.QG‑11, Central spacious standard rooms have full-height windows, free- 1, 8Central, tel. (+41) 44 256 56 56, fax (+41) 44 256 56 standing sea-shell bathtubs, a B&O sound and TV system 57, www.central.ch. 103 Rooms. J­H­A­R­6­U­F­ and more. As it’s just a short walk to Bahnhofstrasse or L­E­K­X­W hhhh to the lake, the Park Hyatt is just as good a choice for your business trip as it is for exploring Zurich. Needless KRONE to say there is a first-class restaurant (parkhuus) and an Just three stops by tram from the main train station and upmarket bar (Onyx Bar) on the ground floor, as well as the city centre, this four-star hotel is conveniently located a spa with sauna and steam bath. If a standard room for leisure and business stays. The Langstrasse district with doesn’t quite match your needs, there are executive and popular bars and restaurants is in walking distance. The deluxe rooms and suites with uncountable amenities. rooms are bright and modern and rates are moderate. There QF‑14, Beethoven-Strasse 21, 8Stockerstrasse, is a Mediterranean restaurant and a separate bar.QF‑8, tel. (+41) 43 883 12 34, fax (+41) 43 883 12 35, Schaffhauserstrasse 1, 8Kronenstrasse, tel. (+41) 44 www.zurich.park.hyatt.ch. 142 rooms. P­J­H­A­ 360 56 56, fax (+41) 44 360 56 00, www.hotel-krone.ch. R­6­U­L­K­D­X­W hhhhh 76 rooms. P­H­A­6­U­L­K­W hhhh facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket February – March 2018 55 Hotels feature electrically-adjustable beds.QF‑11, Bahnhofplatz BUDGET HOTELS 7, 8Hauptbahnhof, tel. (+41) 44 218 88 88, fax (+41) 44 218 81 81, www.hotelschweizerhof.com. 107 rooms. P­J­H­A­R­6­K­X­W hhhh This two-star hotel was completely refurbished in 2016 and offers functional, well designed rooms with wooden SORELL ZÜRICHBERG floors and bright colours. The high ceilings make for This architectural jewel high above Zurich lies at the edge a comfortable, spacious room feeling. Besides single of the forest and yet is just 15 minutes by tram from the and double rooms there are rooms for three or even main railway station and the lake. The view up here four guests. Most rooms have private bathrooms with is thrilling, with the city, the lake and the crests of the showers, all of them feature a flatscreen TV. There is a fully Alps all visible from the generous veranda. The hotel is a equipped small kitchen on every floor which you can use combination of two different parts, a splendid Jugendstil to prepare a meal or tea and coffee. The old town and building and a spiral annex in contemporary design by the lake are in walking distance (10 - 15 minutes), tram Zurich architects Burkhalter & Sumi. Rooms are modern stop just next to the hotel.QI‑13, Hottingerstrasse 31, and brightly coloured and all come with Nespresso coffee 8Hottingerplatz, tel. (+41) 44 256 19 19, fax (+41) machines. The in-house restaurant R21 offers excellent 44 256 19 00, www.hotelhottingen.ch. 32 rooms. cuisine. There is no air-conditioning.QL‑9, Orellistrasse J­A­6­U­L­W hh 21, 8Zoo, tel. (+41) 44 268 35 35, fax (+41) 44 268 35 45, www.zuerichberg.ch. 66 rooms. H­A­6­U­L­B­ K­W hhhh CROWNE PLAZA The Crowne Plaza is situated close to the Letzigrund stadium 13 minutes (8 stops) from the city centre by tram. The 365 rooms come in a mix of bright and light brown hues, with either a queen-size or two twin-size beds, a shower or a bathtub and free tea and coffee making facilities. Upgrade your room to a deluxe for more work space and a couch lounge. The restaurant and bar are currently being renovated, but the pop-up restaurant ‘Burger Lounge & Bar’ serves lunch, dinner and drinks.QBadenerstrasse 420, 8Letzigrund, tel. (+41) 44 404 44 44, fax (+41) 44 404 44 40, www.cpzurich.ch. 365 rooms. P­H­A­R­6­U­F­ L­B­K­W hhhh The lights of Hotel Storchen reflected in the River Limmat. GLÄRNISCHHOF swiss-image.ch/Christof Sonderegger In the financial district and just off Bahnhofstrasse, the Glärnischhof has classically decorated standard rooms with SWISSÔTEL ZÜRICH blue or grey carpets, a desk and a red leather armchair. In the Situated in Zurich Nord, the four-star superior Swissôtel comfort category you get more space and a toilet separated tower boasts a spa and fitness (including an infinity pool) from the bathroom. Guests have free entrance to the Luxor on the 32nd floor, remarkable views towards mount Fitness Centre in the same building which includes a sauna, Uetliberg and the Alps from the rooms and the proximity a solarium and a whirlpool. On the weekends you can book to the exhibition centre and the airport. The rooms come the junior suites as specially decorated Loverooms for a in five different categories, all modern in bright and light romantic weekend with your beloved. On the ground floor brownish and beige colours. A pillow service provides you the Restaurant Le Poisson serves fish specialities.QF‑14, with your preferred headrest. The city centre is a 7-minute Claridenstrasse 30, 8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41) 44 286 22 train ride away and the train station is just across the road 22, fax (+41) 44 286 22 86, www.hotelglaernischhof.ch. from the entrance. There is an in-house Starbucks and a 62 rooms. P­J­H­A­R­6­F­L­K­W hhhh restaurant & bar on the ground floor.QG‑1, Schulstrasse 44, 8Bahnhof Oerlikon, tel. (+41) 44 317 31 11, SCHWEIZERHOF fax (+41) 44 317 33 11, www.swissotel.com/zurich. This four-star superior establishment is a good choice 347 rooms. P­T­H­A­R­6­U­F­L­B­K­D­ for those who come to Zurich to shop on famous C­W hhhh Bahnhofstrasse - it‘s located just opposite the main train station where the shopping starts. Business travelers will also enjoy the first-class service provided which includes MID-RANGE a butler who will knock on your door in the evening, ALEXANDER offering you chocolate, fruit and newspapers. The rooms of The Alexander is an intimate three-star hotel with the Schweizerhof are furnished in a very classic style and modern rooms. They come with dark wooden flooring 56 Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com Hotels BRISTOL AIRPORT HOTELS The Bristol is just a 5-minute walk from the main train station. That means all the city’s central sights are in walking ALLEGRA distance. The rooms here are modern and simple: they all The Allegra is a good choice if you have an early- have a wooden floor, a flat-screen TV and come with either morning flight - the free shuttle bus will make sure you a single, a grand lit or two single beds. There are also rooms don’t miss it. Situated just next to the S-train station with three and four beds - ideal for families. Note there is Kloten, the centre of Zurich is also just a 15-minute no air-conditioning.QG‑10, Stampfenbachstrasse 34, train ride away. The rooms are quite spacious, have 8Stampfenbachplatz, tel. (+41) 44 258 44 44, fax (+41) parquet flooring, a kettle for tea and coffee, a desk 44 258 44 00, www.hotelbristol.ch. 56 rooms. J­H­ and come in a colourful design in the style of Dutch A­R­6­W hhh artist Piet Mondrian - even the linen matches the walls. There is ventilation but no air-conditioning. QHamelirainstrasse 3, Kloten, tel. (+41) 44 804 44 HOSTELS 44, fax (+41) 44 804 41 41, www.hotel-allegra.ch. YOUTH HOSTEL 132 rooms. H­A­R­6­U­F­L­K­W hhhh This modern youth hostel has four- and six-bed rooms with bunk beds and shared showers and toilets. All rooms have a small vestibule where lockers and the and sand-coloured bathrooms with LED lights. They also washbasin are located - so latecomers don‘t wake up have a safe, a flat-screen TV and free Wi-fi throughout. the rest. There are also private doubles and four-bed The location in the Niederdorf nightlife area is very rooms with en-suite bathrooms. 24 hours reception central (five minutes walk to the main train station). This and cheap meals (20Sfr incl. soft drink). It‘s just a doesn‘t make it the quietest of places, but the windows five-minute walk to the lake and 15 min by tram to are soundproof. Most rooms have air-conditioning. The the centre. On the weekends a night bus (N°12) stops Alexander also has a two-star guest house around the right in front of the hostel all night long. Great place corner.QG‑12, Niederdorfstrasse 40, 8Rudolf-Brun- to meet other travellers.QMutschellenstrasse 114, Brücke, tel. (+41) 44 251 82 03, fax (+41) 44 252 74 25, 8Morgental, tel. (+41) 43 399 78 00, fax (+41) 43 www.hotel-alexander.ch. 41 rooms. P ­J ­A ­L ­W 399 78 01, www.youthhostel.ch/zurich. 76 rooms. hhh H ­A ­U ­K ­W VBZ @

Welcome to Zurich • Do you know which ticket is ideally suited to your travel needs on Zurich’s public transport network? We• will Do you get need you information on the on culinary the quickest track: way to e.g. reach with your destination? the Apéro Tram.

TheFor Apéro friendly, Tram professional travels throughout answers the to wholeall your year: questions every Thursday about public at transport in and 5:30around p.m. and Zurich, 7:30 speakp.m. Those to a whospecialist want to at turn one an of evening the city‘s into ninea party can makeVBZ reservations ticket offices. at the phone number 0848 80 18 80. The Apéro Tram, by thewww.vbz.ch/en/ticketoffices way, is only one of many culinary rides: www.vbz.ch/yummytram

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S R i ihl tr. S . h s s e L Neumarkt tra ihl t elg Lindenhof a kt ss S . tt n Rosenhof u ar e A u n K g m N n w Rosenhofmarkt F . u n . l ü a e e o g g N . r s . g b g h c Stüssihof rkt s o 5 h l e rma t f - l 9 Sihlstr. e oh nde m g W i 3 le Augus R a . r r. tin Rathaus g. n s t Bahnhofstr. e n t s rg. Leue n r n Metzge . a . a Fruit & Veg rg. lg . e m g lik Augustinerkirche S Market g f . 2 t e b o r -9 e re ktg. pi rh t P h Mar U O ls S S lo l n F u n Filmpodium c g te h h . O re e c St. l Rathausbr. b b s ü Guild er Z a H s 4 . ä r Alter - g Peterhofstatt s Weinplatz n M e u e n 1 Museum g s e n o 5 k i T T ü Z n m t Botanischer . e n e a a r . A ä e rst n n l l te l u h s a e g g s s a Garten c t. P St. n c t . S t e t r k str . n s r K . er SchoŒelg. e r . e et Peter e i r P r Kunsthaus Arthouse g H . h H t c S Beyer Watch r L Movie . e i i Ethnographic en o m m Museum ass t Museum S m Römerg. G W p 2 n l - I a a 9 Zwingliplatz . i t g n t q h z B rc k Bäreng. u i a K e Kunsthaus a 13 s Züghusplatz l t r. w . e Münsterhof terb i N tr i Müns Grossmünster e p u i 8 s s e 13 e la t k tz Paradeplatz Fraumünster a . s n Helmhaus d g e e tr. Helmhaus t li 9 Basteig. osts g t - h Paradepl. P it 8 c . Tr - ds Limmat Wasserkirche 5 ran B Zentralhof Stadthaus O b U Rösslig. e . . rd lerg t Talstr. Kappe o rg o A Bahnhof str. q e r F m Sc i g f . B hanz u i s r Dianastr. engra a e t R e b a a G r e e u . T n u i

t q S . h m L I tr s s o I n 7 Schanzen graben ü u M M te v -1 Kappeler- r a Frauenbadi 3 n Ä a e -1 M . G 8 h g R n -8 hof s U g 7 t s - Börsenstr. t A ru 6 e T t d K r T 9 r - . a O Q 8 s tr. t Torg. 5- ns t Q U e S rs r ö . Tödistr. B U A eg Glärnischstr. 2 - I rw A S he Stockerstr. 8 c - Pier 7 t O i 9 I a - d l le g 1 e B 1 Fruit & Veg l a h s t C Market o r f . l Freieckg. e a r r Stadthaus- Bellevue s Sc 14 id t h B anlage r a en r. St. Urbang. . Zürich nz r. e uaib en st e s Flea Market Q Stadelhofen g 14 ig t t -11 . 7 n h r 8-9 2 1 ö o . z 5- - Corso - ikStockerstr. lat 2- Bellevueplatz 4 3 re v lip - 1 D rk 11 7- e ü - - n B 15 Bhf. Stadelhofen 6 s Bürklipl. T G t i h Tunnelstr. r a e . Arthouse e . u a Arthouse tr n t s -Q e Piccadilly f tr. n UTOQUAI Le Paris e . e s a r th tr r rd is Lake Sechseläuten- s e s a u t o s 1 t th G Zurich r. n 1-15 r ot l- platz G e . G a Lake Zurich er Cruises lk en a E F G G Opernhaus H F 5 2- Bodmerstr. 4 Index

Wirtschaft im Franz 24 gaymeboys.com online Miki Ramen 21 Swiss Casinos Zürich 28 Airside Center at Zurich magazine 54 Modissa 42 Swiss Chuchi 18 Airport 43 Gellner & Friends 46 Mohrenkopf 24 Swiss Finance Museum Alexander 56 Giacometti murals 32 Montblanc Zurich 47 (Finanzmuseum) 36 Alkena 39 Giesserei Oerlikon 50 Moods 29 Swissôtel Zürich 56 Allegra 57 Glärnischhof 56 Museum Rietberg 35 Tales 29 Bebek 22 Globus Delicatessa 44 Nietturm 28 Teddy's Souvenir-Shop 45 Bederhof 23 Grossmünster 31 Nonam 36 The Alehouse 28 Bellevue 30 Gübelin 46 Och Sport 43 The Artisan 19 Bernhard Bar Cafe 26 Haifisch 30 Odeon 26 The Dolder Grand 55 Best of Switzerland Tours 53 Hammam Münstergasse 52 ooo Rooftop 16 The Gallery 41 Best of Zurich - Zürich City Heaven 54 Orell Füssli - The Bookshop 41 The Ghost Walk of Zurich 37 Tour 36 Heldenbar 54 Oskar Kowalski 27 Thermalbad & Spa Zürich 52 Beyer Watches & Jewellery 46 Helsinki 30 Park Hyatt Zurich 55 tibits 20 Beyer Watch Museum Helvti Diner Bellevue 17 Partime 47 tibits Oerlikon 50 (Uhrenmuseum) 33 Henrici 26 Péclard im Schober 26 Titlis - Engelberg 53 Blockhus 19 Hiltl Vegetarian Butchery 45 Perron 9 50 Tooché 42 Boutique Christian Hoch-Ybrig 52 Petra's Tip Top Bar 54 Totò 20 Fischbacher 44 Hornegg 24 Plaza 30 Uetliberg 32 BrankoB 42 Hottingen 56 Predigerhof 54 Walliser Keller 18 Brasserie Federal 25 Im Viadukt 43 Rage 54 Wasserkirche 33 Brick 28 Jack & Jo (Europaallee) 17 Rheinfelder Bierhalle 25 Widder Bar & Kitchen 18 Bristol 57 Jaime El Barco 50 RiffRaff 12 Yooji's Dreikönig 21 Bucherer 46 Jelmoli 41 Rosenhofmarkt 36 Youth Hostel 57 Burgermeister 17 Jules Verne Panorama Bar 28 Rote Fabrik 29 Zero Zero Rare Groove 41 Café Boy 17 Kafi für Dich 39 Sacchi 27 Zeughauskeller 25 Café des Amis 26 Kai 50 Sauna Seebad Enge 53 Zoological and Central Plaza 55 Kanzlei 30 Schweizer Heimatwerk 45 Paleontological Museums of Chäserrugg 52 Kaufleuten 30 Schweizerhof 56 the University of Zurich 39 CHRIST Watches & Jewelry 46 Kennedy's Irish Pub 29 Sender 29 Zum Grünen Glas 19 Clouds 21 Köchlistube 24 Sihlpost 8 Zunfthaus zur Waag 19 Co Chin Chin 16 Kosmos 12 Skating rink Dolder 39 ZurichEscape 51 Coco 22 Kronenhalle 24 Skating rink Heuried 53 Zurich Zoo 51 Commercio 20 Kunsthaus 34 Sora Sushi 21 Züri rollt - bikes for free 6 Cooper's Pub 50 Kurz Jewellery and Watches 47 Sorell Zürichberg 56 Corso 12 Läderach Chocolatier Suisse 41 St. Peter 33 Crowne Plaza 56 Lake Zurich Cruises 32 Swimming baths Oerlikon 39 Da Michelangelo 20 Laser Arena 51 Der Kern 27 Le Dézaley 18 Dolmetsch 45 Le Muh 50 FEATURES INDEX Edi’s Weinstube 29 Le Philosophe 27 Eichhörnli 23 Le Rendez-Vous 18 Adult entertainment 30 eldorado 28 Les Ambassadeurs 47 Beizen 24 el Lokal 29 Les Halles 22 Breakfast 26 El Luchador 22 LGBT+ Helpline 54 Casino 28 Elm 52 Lindenhof 32 Cheese restaurants 18 Ethnographic Museum 34 lululemon 43 Contemporary architecture 34 Fabric Frontline 44 Männerzone 54 Lake Zurich 32 Fata Morgana 46 Manor 42 Language smarts 8 FIFA World Football Museum Marktküche 20 Live music 29 34 Max Chocolatier 41 Flea Market Kanzlei 36 MCM Boutique 44 More for less with the Zurich Card 35 Fondue cruise 53 Meng Cutlery 45 National holidays 8 Franz Carl Weber 39, 42 Mère Catherine 18 Swiss cuisine 22 Fraumünster 31 messer-scharf 45 Taxi smarts 6 Freitag 44 Michael Kors Zurich 42 Tax free shopping 46 Gamper 23 Migros Museum für Tourist Information 9 Gartenhof 19 Gegenwartskunst 34 Useful Zurich apps 7

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111 121 REGENSDORF S9 10 Glattbrugg 762 111 S S24 1 12 768 Halden 5 764 KATZENSEE 110 Bhf. Lätten- Käshaldenstr. Im Ebnet S16 Zentrum wiesen Birch-| Köschenrüti S2 Stadt Zürich | Zurich City Glatttalstr. Post Leimgrübelstr. Schönauring 75 Ausser- dorfstr. S6 S7

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32 Schwandenholz Hertensteinstr. Buhnstr. OPFIKON Aspholz 40 Lindbergh- Fronwald platz Oberhusen Blumen- feldstr. Staudenbühl 111 Bahnhof 75 491 61 Nord 768 Lindbergh-Allee Hungerbergstr. Maillartstr. Stierenried 40 Himmeri Chavez-Allee 154 62 Glattpark Wright-Strasse WHATEVER YOU WANT Bhf. Seebach Seebacherplatz Zehntenhausplatz S6 S21 Fernsehstudio Glaubtenstr.Glaubtenstr. Einfangstr. Hürstholz 12 ENGSTRINGEN 64 Neun- 111 110 Mötteliweg Felsenrain- Grünwald brunnen str. Genossen- 11 Bollinger- schaftsstr. Schauen- berg weg 14 Oerlikerhus Orionstr. Heizenholz Bhf. Auzelg Oerlikon Leutschen- Lerchenhalde Glaubtenstr. Riedbach Rütihof Lerchen- weg Nord bach WALLISELLEN Süd 62 Chalet- 781

rain 79 Giblenstr. Hagenholz Auzelg Ost 46 Schumacherweg Bahnhof 485 80 Geeringstr. Schützenhaus Bhf. Wallisellen Höngg Birchstr. 80 Oerlikon S8 S14 S19 Riedhofstr. Neu- Platz 61 Ost 37 Oberwiesen-Max-Bill- Saatlenstr. S8 Friedhof Bahnhof Hallenbad Riedgraben Dreispitz Aubrücke

89 affoltern str. Hönggerberg Oerlikon 94 Oerlikon 94 Flora- 40 str. 308 Ifang 62 Schürgi- 304 Michelstr. Althoos Frankental ETH 61 str. Segantinistr.Singlistr. Hönggerberg 11 Wiesler- Maienweg Messe|Hallenstadion 62 Herzogenmühlestr. Glatt gasse 69 Birchdörfli Sternen Dorflinde Herbstweg Glatt Regensberg- 759 Kappen- Höngger- Krematorium Oerlikon brücke 9 Winzerstr. bühlweg berg Nordheim Tulpenstr. Neugut Zwiel- Friedacker- Heerenwiesen 787 Wartau platz Nordheim- str. Winzerstr. Süd Im Wingert str. 80 Luegis-land 307 38 Berufswahl- Sportanlage Industrie GaswerkHohenklingen- schule Bad Allenmoos Salersteig Schörlistr. Heerenschürli Meierhof- Neugut steig 13 Appenzellerstr. platz Am Waidbadstr. Süd Bahnhof Juchhof Börtli Berninaplatz 75 Giessen Pflege- Schlieren Werd- Winzerhalde Schlieren 154 Schwert zentrum Wald- hölzli Käferberg Hirsch- 7 Zentrum 110 L IM M A T Kempfhofsteig Radiostudio Garten Roswiesen Waidspital wiesenstr. 31 S3 Bändliweg Rebberg- Wagonsfabrik S12 69 Frohburg steig Glattwiesen Alte Weiher- Friedrichstr. 40 10 Ringwiesen S19 Trotte steig Tierspital Schwamendingerplatz Probstei Bhf. Altstetten78 Ringstr. 89 7 S42 Lehen- Grünaustr. 304 Escher- str. Buchegg- Vulkanstr. platz 752 gutweg Milchbuck Mattenhof Mülligen 17 Rosen- 754 Tüffenwies 83 Strickhof Bahnhof Bahnhof Waid- gartenstr. Universität Nord 1 fussweg 72 9 743 Feusisbergli kinger- Irchel Stettbach Neeserweg Micafil Hardhof S2 p 744 Wi Guggach-

15 745 Hardturm S16 platz 32 str. 39 S5 S14 15 Schanzackerstr.Langensteinenstr. Bernoulli- S Laubi- Häuser weg Lang- S9 13 str. Schäppiweg Nüren- Lägern- mauer- S7 bergstr. Germaniastr.Rigiblick Am Suter- Fischerweg str. Schaffhauser- Sonnental 35 78 Würzgraben S6 Bahnhof platz acher Förrlibuckstr. Letzistr. Aargauerstr. 3 33 23 89 8 4 Spyristeig 751 80 2 Wipkingen Loogarten Sportweg S Rotbuchstr. Rösli- Scheuch- Kinkelstr. Farbhof zerstr. Hadlaubstr. Kämmaten Toni-Areal Escher-Wyss-Platz str.

Dunkel- 14 Baslerstr. Nordstr. Krönleinstr. hölzli str. Seilbahn Rigiblick Solidapark Luggweg- 4 Lettenstr. Kronenstr. Ottiker- Goldauerstr. str. str. Bachmatt- 8 Technopark 46 Seilbahn Rigiblick Salzweg 3 Heubeeriweg Ursprungstr. Letzipark Schiffbau S14 Okenstr. Beckenhof Im Klösterli 78 SBB-Werk- Dorf 80 . 4 S8 Rautihalde r 2 stätte 9 Vogelsangstr. Flobotstr. Damm-weg Sonnegg- Herdern- 39 str. S2 str. 78 str. Museum f. Spyriplatz Schulhaus Gestaltung Winkel- Buchlern Grimselst Letzipark Quellen- Landes- Stampfenbach- riedstr. Zoo 89 Kappeli West Bhf. Hardbrücke museum Rauti- Sihlquai|HB platz Bethanien 6 35 Limmat-platz str. 4 10 Tobelhof Freihofstr. Hardplatz Flurstr. Susenbergstr.

Friedhof 67 72 Röntgenstr. Albis- Güter- Bahnhofquai|HB Haldenegg Eichbühl rank 31 Halden- Hinter- 8 Letzigrund 3 3 Altes 8 bahnhof Bahnhofplatz|HB bach bergstr. Albisriederplatz 15 Zürichbergstr. Untermoos- Krematorium Bäcker- Central 3 33 Löwenplatz 6 str. anlage 8 13 46 Toblerplatz Siemens 33 Helvetia- Militär-|Langstr. Kirche Bircher-Benner

17 7 Hubertus Zypressen- platz Fluntern 751 str. ETH| gasse Polyterrasse Albisrieder- Kanonen- 10 Universitäts- LochergutKalkbreite/ 24 dörfli Kernstr. Polybahn spital 67 Langgrüt- Bhf.Wiedikon 5 Waldhaus Friedhof Bezirks- 31 33 gebäude Dolder Sihlpost/ 25 str. Bertastr. Bahnhof- Voltastr. Hofstr. Sackzelg 89 Goldbrunnen- Stauffacher HB 4 3 Gutstr. str.|HB Neumarkt Bergstation Platte 33 Titlisstr.

Im Gut 6 15 11 Talwiesen- Zwingli- Buchholz bergerstr.Schaufel- platz Rudolf- Klosbach Goldackerweg Heuried haus 2 Rennweg 32 Brun-Brücke Kantonsschule Schmiede Werd Sihlstr. Limmatquai str. Wiedikon76 14 Bahnhof Witiko In der Ey Wiedikon Kunsthaus Römerhof 67 Dolderbahn Hölderlinsteig Zentrum 14 Hottingerplatz n Bahnhof66 Rathaus Sädlenweg Selnau 9 Storchen 8 215|245 Helmhaus Hölderlinstr. Sprecher 350 Paradeplatz 3 220 str. Englisch- Klusplatz GlockenackerFriedhof Bahnhof 704 235|236 8 Stadelhofen viertelstr. S10 Brand- Börsenstr. 703 Triemli Bhf. Enge|Bederstr. schenkestr. WALDEGG S4 2 701 89 Stockerstr. Triemli- Höfliweg 32 76 Hürlimann- 7 9 spital Waffenplatzstr. platz Manesse- S18 S10 Tunnelstr. 11 Triemli Schweighof platz Signaustr. Kapfstr. Schlyfi Zweiackerstr. 5 Waserstr.

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wandweg 165 ZOLLIKERBERG Uetlihof Brunau 66 Bus (Nr. 31–916)Epi-Klinik Bus (nos. 31–916) 17 Mutschel- Höschgasse S10 444 Billoweg Landiwiese Elektrowatt lenstr. Strassen- S8 S-Bahn S-Bahn train verkehrsamt 72 Im Walder Fröhlichstr. 24 Bergbahn Cable car/funicula110 r 13 445 Thujastr. Bleulerstr. Chinagarten Wollishofen Schiffstation Zürichsee Schiff Lake Zurich boat140 Albisgütli Wildbachstr. Bahnhof Besenrainstr. Bahnhof Limmatschiff Limmat river boat Tiefenbrunnen SIHL Wollishofen Poststrasse 4, 8001 Zürich Oberdorfstrasse 25 910 Endhaltestelle Terminus S4 Jugend- herberge Haltestelle nur in Bus stop only for 200|210 Post Wollishofen Rote Fabrik Zürichhorn Casino Pfeilrichtung bedient direction shown Butzenstr. Linie verkehrt nur Bus only travels in Rennweg 31, 8001 Zürich 8001 Zürich 444 Verenastr. Morgental in einer Richtung one direction here 154 445 110 Tarifzone ZVV ZVV fare zone 155 70 150 www.mengcutlery.ch www.messer-scharf.ch

66 Seerose Wald Woodland ZÜRICHSEE Manegg 7 Kalchbühlweg 70 ©ZVV|VBZ|12.2017 Design: e-team design GmbH | Realisation: PostAuto Region Zürich Region PostAuto GmbH | Realisation: design e-team Design: Frymannstr. Wollishofen 184 Stadtgrenze

185 Bahnhof Neubühl Marbachweg Dangelstr. RZ_Teddys_Inserat_Zuerich_in_your_Pocket_143x210_140115.indd 1 14.01.15 16:35 Im Hüsli S4 Sihlweidstr. Sunnau Mittelleimbach KILCHBERG 151 155 150 ADLISWIL SOUVENIRS SOUVENIRS WHATEVER YOU WANT

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