Flying the Flag

FREE July 2008 Edition 45 krakow POST ISSN 1898-4762 www.krakowpost.com

Krakow Polish police graduate U.S. training course >> page 3

Poland Rape victim denied legal abortion for weeks >> page 6

Feature The lowdown on summer festivals >> page 10, 11

Business Buying a flat in Krakow, part 1 >> page 13

Sport Image: Polish Institute and Sikorski Museum, London Polish pilots of the 303 Kosciuszko Fighter Squadron in Britain, 1942 Poland looks forward From left to right: F/O Eugeniusz Horbaczewski, F/O Janusz Marciniak, S/ Ldr Jan Zumbach to the Olympics >> page 14

Culture FLYING THE FLAG Copernicus book sells for $2.2 million tine exploits of Polish couriers Besides drawing attention to >> page 15 who sneaked intelligence out of the illustrious successes of Po- Nazi-occupied Europe. land’s fighting forces, Mr. Kawc- British MP Seeks Holiday zynski was at pains to point out Mr. Kawczynski singled out that most of today’s Polish im- life “the liberal elite of the BBC” as migrants are “extremely hard City in Poles’ Honour especially culpable in tarnish- working and law-abiding.” ing the image of today’s Polish > by night immigrants, claiming that the Mr. Kawczynski is not standing Notes From the Nick Hodge news corporation “will not dare alone in his bid – the bill has to refer to controversial immi- been ordered by a cross-party Underground gration” from other parts of the group that includes Liberal, /CL 2 little after midday on Daniel Kawczynski, Conserva- world. Conservative and Labour MPs. June 4th, a decidedly tive MP for the borough of > reviews tall British MP – six Shrewsbury and Atcham, deliv- The thrust of the speech was Nevertheless, the BBC was quick A foot eight to be pre- ered a six-minute diatribe, citing to establish a bank holiday that to counter Mr. Kawczynski’s al- Drop In, Fork Out, cise - rose from his seat in the a catalogue of Polish achieve- would “celebrate the contribu- legations about anti-Polish bias. Get Served House of Commons to harangue ments, from the airborne hero- tion of Polish citizens to Great A spokesman for the corpora- /CL 3, 5 the honourable members about ics of Polish pilots during the Britain since 1940.” tion declared, “the picture he the gallantry of Polish soldiers Battle of Britain, to the clandes- paints is not one we recognise.” > spotlight during the Second World War. The spokesman vigorously denied that the BBC focused only First Step...A National “As a person of Polish origin,” “I feel compelled to speak out on Poles, yet did confirm that Museum exhibition he proclaimed, “I have tried not “Polish nationals make up one /CL 6 to abuse my position here in because of my deep concern of the largest groups of re- the House of Commons to focus cently arrived legal immigrants > posted on Poles, yet I feel compelled to about how Polish immigration into the UK and our coverage speak out because of my deep reflects this.” Concerts, exhibitions & concern about how Polish im- is being covered in the media.” parties migration is being covered in It is not the first time >> /CL 7, 8, 9, 10 the media.” that complaints have 2 2 Krakow Post JULY 2008 www.krakowpost.com News Krakow

been made about media coverage of << Continued from 1 For Your Freedom And Ours Letters Poles in the UK. In March this year, Besides touting the “tremendous the Federation of Poles in Great Britain “reluctantly” dispatched a contribution” that Polish immi- To the editor letter to the Press Complaints Commission, citing the Daily Mail, grants make to today’s Britain, a newspaper traditionally associated with Conservative voters, as Tory MP Daniel Kawczynski cited a RE: Debate, Krakow Post June 2008 guilty of anti-Polish bias. The Polish Federation noted some 50 number of historic achievements Dear Editor, Daily Mail headlines that were allegedly anti-Polish in sentiment. within the framework of the Al- The newspaper denied discrimination against Poles, brandishing The question of a Jewish “revival,” of the sur- lied World War II victory. Many of vival of “true Jewish life” and of Jewish cul- examples of “balanced” articles. these have not made an imprint ture in Kazimierz (and the associated attempt in the West’s popular imagination, at determining cultural authenticity) is a false However, whilst sections of the media have inspired rancour with yet Poles take pride in the points problem. To use the terms of Ruth Ellen Gru- regards to the handling of Polish issues, it appears that the Brit- below. ber (author of Virtually Jewish: Reinventing ish public has not been swayed. Christopher Alexander, who has Jewish Culture in Europe) and Jean Baudrillard (infamous French philosopher), the important regularly employed Poles at his landscaping firm in London over “Never in the field of human conflict question is rather: what are the effects of the the last five years, seems typical in his enthusiasm: “I find that was so much owed by so many to so virtualization and simulation of Jewish Kazimi- they [the Poles] get along well with all the other staff including few.” So said Churchill of the Allied erz’s disinherited cultural heritage? British, Australians, New Zealanders, and Bulgarians. I get the feel- pilots who fought in the Battle of Brit- ing that people like the Polish here because they are friendly and ain. As it was, a Polish squadron (303) Duncan Rhodes’ optimism and lack of cynicism ...it has work hard. London is a cosmopolitan city and diversity in culture are refreshing. However, he opposes the sup- “ dispatched more Nazi aircraft than any posed Jewish “revival,” grounded in heartfelt been has come to be a large part of what makes it special.” other RAF unit. Some 17,000 Polish philo-Semitism, to the “rules of economics” airmen fought alongside the Royal Air that must accompany development and urban trans- Speaking to the Krakow Post, Daniel Kawczynski remained staunch Force during the war. revitalization. I would say that it is exactly in his criticism of sections of the British media, stating that there these “rules of economics” (read capitalism) formed was excessive coverage of Polish immigration, considering that The Poles provided the fourth larg- that drive this ‘revival’. The heritage tourism “nine out of ten immigrants to Britain are not Eastern European; industry is as strong a force in the Jewish ‘re- est armed force of the Western Allies. vival’ as local philo-Semitic interest. I’d like to into a they are Africans and from the Indian subcontinent.” He expressed They took part in critical engagements point out that contrary to his claim (and con- concern about recent acts of violence against Poles, although thank- during the Normandy Campaign under trary to popular belief), neither Alef, Ariel, nor Jewish fully the number of reported assaults remains meagre at present. “ General Maczek, as well as at Arnhem, Once Upon a Time in Kazimierz are kosher res- Tobruk and Monte Cassino. During the taurants. The only one in Kazimierz is at the Disney- The MP said that “all in all” he has had “very positive feedback” Eden Hotel. I’d also like to draw your reader’s latter conflict, Polish troops helped attention to the fact that, on its website, Ariel land about his bid to launch the Polish bank holiday. Nevertheless, the open the road to Rome after the fail- invites you, “to have [a] virtual trip through bill will not have an easy passage. The concept has come up against ure of three other Allied assaults. Cracow’s Kazimierz,” and that a sign at Once some robust criticism, largely owing to its singularity of approach. Upon a Time in Kazimierz invites you in for, “a Simon Hughes, a Liberal Democrat MP, suggested in the Commons Documents recently released by trip down memory lane.” that “to single out one nation and its contribution for one specific Britain’s Foreign Office show that 43 recognition would not be in the interests of either the Polish com- Kazimierz is now a simulated Jewish quarter. percent of Allied intelligence from The president of Krakow’s Jewish community munity or the other communities in the United Kingdom.” Continental Europe came from Polish has even stated that he regrets the fact that sources. Poles were widely credited there are so few Jews living in Kazimierz, and During his interview with the Krakow Post, Mr. Kawczynski con- with providing the best espionage on that it has been transformed into a Jewish Dis- fided that his fundamental goal was to raise awareness of Polish Nazi-occupied territory. Poland’s “un- neyland. issues, and that to a large extent he was being “ironic” in his bid to derground state” was the most highly create an exclusively Polish holiday. He added that in many ways Soren Gauger claims that Jewish culture in Ka- developed of the occupied nations. zimierz is understood in a symbolic sense. I’d it was “not really appropriate” to launch a holiday that excluded say it is understood as commodity. He tells us other expatriates. Nevertheless, he is wholeheartedly committed Polish cryptographers Henryk Zygal- that an otherness existed in Kazimierz not long to the idea of a bank holiday ski, Jerzy Rozycki and Marian Rejewski ago; an alcoholic, alternative, and dispossessed in tribute to “all hard working provided the crucial breakthrough in otherness, but importantly, it is a non-Jewish immigrants in Great Britain,” otherness he describes. The focus on this non- deciphering Nazi ciphers on the in- Jewish otherness is exactly the product of the whom he asserts should be famous Enigma Machine. It has been simulation of Kazimierz’s disinherited heritage “supported and cherished.” suggested that the penetration of Nazi and of Kazimierz’s historical Other. It leads to He added that immigration is plans hastened the close of the war by a creation of a virtual, problem-free universe not a case of one-way traffic. some two years. where complex and tragic issues and events “Three million Brits now live are resolved through simulation. abroad,” he said, noting that The Yalta conference of February Simply put, the debated situation, the virtual- “there will come a day when 1945 saw Poland lose territory and tee- ization of Jewish cultural heritage in Kazimi- there are 20,000 Brits in War- ter into the Soviet sphere. The Polish erz, seen by some as a Jewish “revival,” is much saw.” government-in-exile, then based in Lon- more complicated and has greater implications don, was officially stripped of its stand- in terms of collective memory and collective The bill for a Polish bank holi- identity than is here presented. ing in July of that year. Yet according day has been granted a second to future British Prime Minister Harold Bartosz Dramowicz, Krakow reading in October. Macmillan, the Poles’ advance through Italy continued with distinction: “They had lost their country,” he reflected, letters to the editor Daniel Kawczynski MP “but they kept their honour.”

he Krakow Post welcomes letters to the editor. Letters for Tpublication should be signed and bear the signatory’s e- about mail address and city of residence. The Krakow Post reserves krakow POST the right to edit letters. Krakow Post is a monthly Anna Spysz, Editor-in-Chief For advertising inquiries, Please send letters to the editor at [email protected], publication published by Lifeboat Ltd. [email protected] please contact: or by post at ISSN: 1898-4762 Culture Editor Michal McSperrin-Kossak, www.krakowpost.com Krakow Post [email protected] Sales Manager Ul. Szczepanska 7/4a Mark Bradshaw, Publisher Duncan Rhodes, Nightlife Editor [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] +48 (12) 421 4865 31-011 Krakow Stuart Wilson, Design Printers, www.drukarniapolska.pl www.krakowpost.com Krakow Post JULY 2008 3 News Krakow

A Force on Wheels

Polish police graduate a four-year programme led by the U.S. Dept. of Justice

Anna Spysz

oncluding four years of training for a small Cgroup of Krakow policemen, the American Ambassador to Poland, Victor Ashe, handed the officers nine bicycles in a formal ceremony on June 25th.

The bikes were awarded to conclude an initiative called the International Criminal In- vestigative Assistance Program (ICITAP), whose main goal is the cooperation of police forces across national boundaries, particularly in cases of multinational crime, terrorism, and corruption. The programme’s priority is to strengthen the ef- fectiveness, professionalism, and transparency of the criminal process, as well as instill a Above: Ambassador Ashe presents the bikes / respect for human and citizens’ Below: Police demonstrate using bikes against a criminal rights in the officers. ICITAP has of Polish policemen also spent been functioning since 1986 time training in Charlotte and under the wings of the Ameri- Wilmington, North Carolina, can Department of Justice. including six officers from Kra- kow. As part of the programme, As part of the programme, the United States government policemen from the U.S. lead has spent over 800 thousand lectures and workshops for dollars in the course of training policemen from other coun- the Polish police officers. tries, during which they share their experiences with fighting At the conclusion of the pro- crime across borders. Speaking gramme, the American Embas- to the press, Ambassador Ashe sy donated a set of bicycles to stressed the importance of not the Polish police, part of which just formal training, but the had already been received by “shared experiences that can policemen in Warsaw in an ear- strengthen police forces” both lier ceremony. In addition, the in Poland and in the U.S. same policemen had received training from Dutch officers of fighting crime,” citing the tactics they had learned, using From 2004 to 2008, American in the handling of the bicycles, implementation and success of their bikes as a kind of shield, experts provided training for also as part of the programme. a similar programme while he with which they could even dis- over 200 Polish policemen at was mayor of Knoxville, Ten- arm an armed man. The main the International Specialized Specialized training and prop- nessee. goal of the new bicycle force Police Training Centre in Le- erly fitted bikes will allow po- is to increase the safety of cen- gionów. The training consisted licemen to more effectively and In a highly pedestrian and tour- tral Krakow, both for visitors of “community policing” cours- safely patrol the many streets ist-oriented city like Krakow, and for the locals that live and es, learning ethics codes and in central Krakow not accessi- bikes are “very popular, not spend time there. ways of fighting corruption, ble by motor vehicles. Ambas- only with police but with citi- strategic planning and police sador Ashe stressed his belief zens.” The specially trained po- administration. Three groups in bikes being an “effective way licemen demonstrated several

/ photo Anna Spysz

>> 4 4 Krakow Post JULY 2008 www.krakowpost.com News Krakow

Fence Picketed out of Market Square Beach is Coming, but After Summer’s Over Adelina Krupski Grażyna Zawada Due to unexpected bureaucratic twists, Krakow will be able to t last, the fence that enjoy its long-awaited beach on disfigured the Mar- the Vistula River only after the ket Square for nearly summer season. The develop- Athree years has dis- ment project, financed by SAO appeared once and for all. The Beach Investments, has been decision to remove it was fi- temporarily put on hold because nally made in mid-June by the of a series of obstacles that has Regional Inspectorate for Build- yet to be settled, namely water ing Supervision - however the rights, building permission and whole debacle surrounding the an infrastructure warrant. controversial barrier continues before the court. Complications also arose with the owner of the Forum Hotel, When the fence was put up in who filed a planning protest and 2005, due to Market Square sur- later withdrew it after talks face refurbishment, no one ex- with the city and investors. As pected that it would take three a result, the situation had to be years to remove it and that it carried over to the Public Board would cause so much confu- of Complaint and is expected sion. Some Cracovians were to last at least a month. De- even worried that the fence spite the delays, Filip Adamczyk would become another tourist from SAO Investment remains attraction and with time every- optimistic and says he promises With the fence gone, the flower sellers have returned to their side of the Sukiennice one would get used to it as an- that construction will begin as other Krakow peculiarity. There soon as the administrative hitch was even a joke about it, that when archaeologists discov- permissions and were brought Building Supervision, and was is resolved. after a few centuries no one will ered ruins beneath the present to court for it. The court case to be applied forthwith. remember what it really was for surface. The mayor then want- prolonged the life of the fence In addition to a beach along the and the archaeologists would ed to arrange a tourist route by two years and even though The case against illegal under- riverfront, plans call for a full have to attribute some legend- there together with a shop- there were some harbingers ground construction is still in recreational centre - a café, res- ary application to it. ping centre, which received of positive changes, the final progress, however the ill-loved taurant, music club, an open-air objections from the residents decision was always appealed barrier won’t be bothering Cra- cinema and sports facilities such The problems with the fence of Krakow. The municipality by the prosecutor. Finally, the covians or tourists any more. as a skate park, a rock-climbing started during the refurbish- started preparatory works un- decision was made by a supe- wall and basketball courts. ment of the Market Square, derground without appropriate rior official, Chief Inspector for However, if bureaucracy has its way, it seems the beach may just be ready in time to accom- We DO speak English. Really! modate the swans and ducks this winter. Krakow businesses have begun advertising their linguistic skills to the public

John Beauchamp Polish, admittedly a very diffi- being late and I was expecting a really, we do speak English. English should be standard ev- cult language. rather cooler reception from the erywhere, and there shouldn’t ack in what may be But that is all over now. Since cashier. The phrase admittedly Speaking to Filip Szatanik, the be such a need to promote the called the “dark ages,” Poland joined the EU in 2004, I comes directly from the Polish, Municipal Council’s press of- city because a few institutions so only just a few years for one have felt an ever-grow- “pin i zielony,” but at least the ficer (in English, no less), got feel that they speak the lan- Bago, being an English ing presence of other European girl made an effort, not quite so me thinking about how such a guage. And what about other speaker coming to Krakow could languages being spoken on the common in the service industry campaign can indeed promote tongues? How about French, be quite a daunting experience. streets of Krakow. Only the oth- here, not yet… the city. I’m still in two minds German, Russian, even Nor- Not many people spoke much by er day I was getting some essen- about it: the criteria are pretty wegian? And has anyone seen way of our Anglo-Saxon tongue, tials in the Kefirek on Grodzka So the use of English is becom- wide-ranging to become part any of these stickers being and sorting out even the most street, which is usually full of ing more popular yes, so much of the campaign, with cultural proudly displayed anywhere? rudimentary of things, such tourists buying water (Ger- so that the Municipal Council institutions only needing one English speakers have an easier as buying toothpaste or get- mans), beer (Norwegian school- has decided to promote its in- English speaker to qualify. And time now than five years ago ting someone to weigh you an children), even large packets of stitutions (museums and the taking into account Polish or- certainly, and the more tour- onion in that bastion of Polish crisps (mostly Italians). At the like, even though any organi- ganisations and the wonder- ists that come to Krakow, the grocers, the Jubilat, was indeed checkout I presented my card sation is allowed to take part) ful people that work therein, I more institutions will realise quite a nightmare. But whether and the next thing I hear is a that speak English - or should wouldn’t be too surprised if an that they shouldn’t have to feel it’s doing the shopping, going shrill “PIN and green”; the lady that be “spik inglisz?” Stickers English speaker could only be the need to advertise that they out to a restaurant, or visiting had seen my not-so-Polish name have been created just for such found on Tuesdays between 10 speak the language, because it any number of Krakow’s cultur- on the machine (how does it do a purpose, with the bold proc- am and 1 pm, and every other should come naturally, just like al institutions, there has always that?), and decided it would be lamation “Please come in. We Friday between 4 pm and clos- entering your PIN number and been the problem of communi- easier for me if she said it in do speak English.”, as if these ing, whenever that may be. hitting the green button. cation for the multitude of for- English. Not that I understood institutions were desperately eigners that have no clue about what she was on about, the hour trying to prove something. No Not everyone is impressed: www.krakowpost.com Krakow Post JULY 2008 5 News Krakow

Debate Wałęsa: Fraud or Flawed Hero? Szymon Dzierżyński makes an ironic case for the prosecution, Adelina Krupski an impassioned plea for the defense. Exposés seem to come thick and fast these days, not least when communist collaboration is on the agenda. For better or worse, Poles from all walks of life – artists, workers, aristo- crats, men of the cloth - have all been unmasked as informants in recent years. Lech Wałęsa, the hero of Solidarity, has had mud thrown at him before. In fact, he was cleared in court of any allegations of collaboration some eight years ago. So why the debate now? Well, the release of a new book has raised the ghost of Wałęsa’s alleged communist past. Given that the publisher of that book is the Institute of National Remembrance - effectively an official voice of the state – the allegations have whipped up a whirlwind of controversy. The central premise is that in the early 70s – several years prior to the Solidarity surge – Wałęsa, codenamed Bolek, informed on fellow dissidents and that he later covered this up to protect his new-found status as a hero of Polish independence. If this is true, was Wałęsa a fatally compromised man from the outset of Solidarity? Or was his a road to Damascus type conversion, that of a man who made mistakes, yet who still emerged as a true - world-changing indeed - champion of freedom? Or, more simply, is Wałęsa just an innocent victim of political mud-slinging?

Two Poles have achieved worldwide acclaim in modern history: Pope John The appalling accusation does not disgrace our friend Walesa, but rather Paul II and Lech Wałęsa. Whether the latter deserves this venerable posi- those who have the audacity to point the finger. tion alongside His Holiness has been a matter of growing controversy in A: Poland over the years. People in the West seem to know a certain image of F: Wałęsa and the Security Services is out in bookstores and flying off of the Walesa: the short, outspoken electrician from Gdansk shipyard, the leader of the Solidar- shelves - nothing like a dirty scandal on a leading figure to grab the attention of Poles. ity movement who personally overthrew communist rule, the Nobel Peace Prize winner, The authors of the controversial publication, two respected historians of the Institute of the ex-President of Poland with his trademark droopy walrus moustache. Is that all? Well, National Remembrance (IPN), are linked to the conservative party led by President Lech no. Here we all know another side of our national hero. Kaczyński and his brother. The head of the IPN was summoned to the Presidential Palace after Wałęsa announced he would search for ways to impeach President Kaczyński. Every Pole knows of the serious accusations that Wałęsa was an informer for the communist secret police, the notorious SB, under the codename “Bolek,” and that he became one Containing convincing evidence, the book claims that the anti-communist icon was an as early as 1970. As a paid agent, he allegedly wrote reports on his fellow oppositionists, informer between 1970 and 1976 and that during his presidency, he borrowed his police as a result of which men were harassed and persecuted. Two historians file and returned it with pages missing. have finally written a credible account of the case. In this light, if we However, Wałęsa maintains that the take a look at Wałęsa’s actions over the last twenty years, we can see documents do not prove the allegations that he was a compromised liability from the word go. as they had been fabricated by the SB security service, and he denies having In 1988 Wałęsa held secret meetings with notorious Minister of Internal destroyed any official papers about his Affairs general Czesław Kiszczak. The result of that conspiracy was the past. Polish Round Table Agreement of 1989. It was an event viewed by many patriotic and politically aware Poles as an act of treason. In the after- The SB had its motives. According math of the Round Table the communists seemingly gave power to the to Roger Boyes, author of the Wałęsa democratic opposition. In fact, they established themselves in business biography titled The Naked President, and financial circles, continuing to influence political life here to the “the short, fast-talking electrician was present day. Communist crimes were swept under the carpet. Would the a profound embarrassment for the architects of martial law have had such an easy ride had Wałęsa not had regime in the 1980s, largely because he a skeleton in his closet? / cartoon Dominik Nawrocki embodied the romantic idea in the West that the Soviet empire could be brought Next comes Wałęsa’s presidency: a disaster. Now the self-made icon settles himself in the to its knees by a simple worker.” Presidential Palace (which, by funny coincidence, was a seat of the Russian Viceroy of occupied Poland in the 19th century). Members of the U.S. Congress stood in awe listening This is not the first time that Wałęsa has faced charges of working with the communist to his memorable speech (written and translated by someone else), but the Poles were special services. The former head of state has successfully contested that he was Bolek blushing listening to his daily routine of wisecracks and dumb jokes in crooked Polish. and was already cleared of spy charges in 2000, after a Polish court found that the SB While this working-class wag stayed at Windsor Castle, he made public comments that forged documents in his file in an effort to prevent him from receiving the Nobel Prize in the bed was so big, he couldn’t find his wife. Well, if he’d been just a clown of a presi- 1983 and to harm his close relationship with Pope John Paul II. dent, no matter. The United States also had presidents like Gerald Ford, who, according to his own friends, “was a nice fella, but played too much football with no helmet on.” Old allegations have been refashioned into a new, more publicized and even more dis- Wałęsa was a dangerous clown though. He declared “war at the top” on his fellow Solidar- turbing version. In no way can this slanderous attack be deemed as a step forward for ity members. He overthrew Jan Olszewski’s government in 1992, which had attempted to Poland. More worryingly, it suggests that the leading politicians and historians of Poland put communist collaborators on trial. He placed former high-ranking SB officers in top have nothing better to do than conjure up new ways to defame a national hero. positions in the newly-founded secret services. His closest adviser was his former chauf- feur, himself an ex-SB sleuth. In the meantime, Wałęsa was borrowing his own secret It is also not the first time that the Kaczyński brothers have used accusations of commu- police file from the Ministry of Internal Affairs and returning it with pages missing. nist collaboration to distract from matters of real importance.

Today, the 65-year old still travels giving lectures worldwide, receiving standing ovations Surely any wrongful actions that Wałęsa may have taken over thirty years ago are irrel- and six-figure paychecks. This son of peasant farmers resides in a millionaire’s mansion, evant, considering how much good he has achieved since. Lech Wałęsa, with no further while his former colleagues from the shipyard - who always claimed that he was a police education beyond elementary school, led a revolution that defeated communism. To this informer - live on beggarly pensions. And he still denies any double-dealing. day, he symbolises the strength and courage of Poland in its fight against communist rule. Poles should treat him with respect and gratitude by totally rejecting such ill-judged General knowledge of communism and Soviet misdeeds in Eastern Europe is rather poor allegations. in the Western world. The Moscow propaganda was so efficient, that many Western intel- lectuals were lured by communist ideas. Some, although not communists themselves, It’s always easier to dig up dirt on someone, and sadly, the whole affair creates disbelief became avid supporters of the sinister regime, including another Nobel Prize winner, that Polish Solidarity ever took place. It’s time to give the name-calling a rest and start eminent but not too bright playwright George Bernard Shaw. showing consideration for someone who was prepared to risk his life for the cause of freedom. Thanks to bold historians, who continue to dig into our nation’s troubled and obscure past - despite fierce attacks from newspapers and private TV networks that are spon- sored by the ex-communist establishment - we may finally deliver the Holy Father from his troublesome companion in history. We may present to the general public the true image of Lech Wałęsa a.k.a. “Bolek”: an electrician turned erratic politician with a red chain around his neck. 6 Krakow Post JULY 2008 www.krakowpost.com News Poland

Abortion for Rape Victim Causes Nationwide Dispute

14-year-old girl denied legal right to abortion for two weeks

Grażyna Zawada

14-year-old girl was if a doctor refuses to perform to “be able to make a conscious wing party’s chairman said his raped by her older the abortion, he has to appoint decision.” Alone and scared, group would break the concordat A friend and became preg- another person or institution the girl told Gazeta Wyborcza, with the Vatican when they got nant. It took her and her moth- that would do it, as the right “I want to be a mother when the majority in the Parliament, er two weeks to be granted the to abortion is constitutionally I grow up, not now. Now all I as priests wandering around abortion that she was entitled guaranteed. In one of the hospi- want is my own mother.” and persuading girls against to according to the law. tals, as the mother was talking abortion were a contravention to the senior registrar, a priest Unofficially, the doctors of all norms. The archbishop of The issue was first reported by arrived and attempted to per- wouldn’t perform the abor- Warsaw, Józef Życiński, issued a the Gazeta Wyborcza daily, to suade the girl not to have the tion because the hospital statement saying that the situa- which the young girl’s desper- abortion. Since then Agata has was raided by pro-life action is an example of a drastic ate mother turned to for help. had no peace – activists from tivists and spammed by tension between the voice of In Poland, a woman is entitled anti-abortion movements and e-mails expressing both conscience and legal regulations to an abortion only when the priests followed her from Lublin pleads and threats. To that allow an unborn life to be intercourse was to Warsaw, where the staff’s horror it turned ended. He thanked those who forced on her, or she was to have the out that personal data of were defending “the sanctity of when the pregnan- abortion, and there the girl had been leaked, in- the human right to live” and de- cy may seriously “I want – according to the cluding her mobile number, nied that accusations of fanati- affect her health, hospital’s staff – on which she received threats cism were justified as pro-life and then it can she was hounded and pleas via SMS. When the groups were using only dialogue only be performed to be a by them. girl left the hospital, she was and declarations of solidarity. before the 12th followed by pro-life activists on According to the archbishop, it week of pregnancy. mother According to Wanda the street and even at the po- was the abortionists who were Agata – the name Nowicka, the head lice station where she and her fanatic. that Gazeta used when I of the Foundation mother sought refuge. for the girl who for Women and The case of Agata is still under wished to remain Family Planning, an After coming back to Lub- investigation, as the prosecu- anonymous – went grow up, obvious violation lin, Agata dwelled for a few tor’s office determines whether to a gynaecologist of doctor-patient days in a shelter and was dis- the girl had been urged to abort after the rape, who not now. privilege had taken charged as the court in Lub- against her will or if she had in turn informed place, not to men- lin overruled its decision after been denied what was her consti- her mother and the Now all tion the girl’s right of events, the hospital received a re-considering the case. During tutional right. Also under inves- police. After dis- to privacy. Nowicka court order to place Agata in an that time she was still sent text tigation is how pro-life groups cussing the prob- I want is also said that Cath- emergency shelter for children messages from activists, urging acquired information about Aga- lem, they agreed it olic associations until a court could determine her not to have the abortion, ta and if doctor-patient privilege would be best for were relentlessly if Agata’s mother had forced while also receiving letters from had been violated. the young girl’s fu- my own trying to influence her into getting the abortion supporters protesting against ture and health to Agata, to the point (something the girl repeatedly the violation of her civil rights. For Wanda Nowicka, the unusual terminate the preg- mother.” where she couldn’t denied). According to the police, Finally, thanks to the Foundation eagerness of the prosecution’s nancy, and applied make a conscious a rumour of Agata’s pregnancy for Women and Family Planning, office in taking away a child for and were grant- decision about her had circulated at her school, and the girl and her mother found a from the mother and the fact ed permission for an abortion. pregnancy. Indeed, the girl had one of Agata’s teachers reported place where they could perform that pro-life groups knew every- been wavering in her decision that Agata wanted to have the the abortion and it was carried thing about Agata is not a coin- However, the girl was refused in after talking to the priest, but fi- baby after all, leading to an in- out on the last day possible – at cidence. two hospitals in her hometown nally she and her mother signed vestigation into whether Agata the very end of the 12th week of of Lublin due to a conscience a statement affirming that they had been forced into the deci- pregnancy. “I suspect there must be some clause, which is the right of a wanted the abortion. sion to terminate the pregnan- kind of secret police in hospitals doctor to refuse an abortion if cy. The court reacted instantly In the meantime, the case of that check if someone wants to it’s contradictory to his/her re- However, the abortion didn’t and decided that Agata should Agata stirred great emotions in have a constitutionally-allowed ligious beliefs. Nevertheless, take place. In the official version be placed in a shelter, allegedly Poland and even engaged major abortion and then do every- political forces. Internet forums thing to prevent it,” she says. bulged with comments from “If it wasn’t for the Foundation both Agata’s supporters and de- and for the media attention that tractors and Gazeta Wyborcza’s arose recently, the case would pages were full of discussions have never ended as Agata between pro-lifers and abortion- wished. This incident showed ists. Ewa Kopacz, the Minister of clearly how restrictive our law is Health, ordered the Lublin hos- and how difficult it is to enforce pital to appoint a hospital not it. Acting alone, Agata would bound by the conscience clause, never had the abortion per- as these institutions lingered on formed legally,” she concluded. fulfilling their duty and appoint- ing a place where the girl could have had the abortion. The left www.krakowpost.com Krakow Post JULY 2008 7 News Poland

Dysfunction in the Union The Sun Shines On Polish Community Despite Irish “No” vote, the EU plans to push through Lisbon Treaty Staff Reporter Adelina Krupski

ngland’s biggest sell- ish news, and a jumbo dollop of ing newspaper, The celebrity gossip. Sun, launched its very Eown Polish version Naturally, The Sun simply this June, chiming in with the wouldn’t be The Sun without Euro 2008 Cup. Polski Sun hit its legendary “page three girl.” the streets on June 7th, and And “na trójce,” we are intro- six editions have been issued duced to blonde beauty Kamila to date. from Poznań, who, besides bar- ing all of god’s gifts, “promises Krakow Post managed to pick to keep fingers crossed for our / cartoon Kasia Adamek up a copy of the June 9th edi- footballers.” The page three girl midst the politi- ing that “Lisbon Treaty adop- declared the treaty dead after tion, which ran with the head- is indeed something of a nation- cal chaos that arose tion facilitates EU enlargement the Irish “No” vote. In addi- line “Agonia i Ekstaza,” real institution in England. Back from the rejection plans but the failure to ratify it tion, the constitutional court flecting a bittersweet weekend in the early 70s, The Sun stole Aof the Lisbon Treaty does not shatter the plans.” has been asked by the senate in the world of sport. Krakow the thunder of rival The Daily by Irish voters last month, Po- to judge whether it is in ac- ace Robert Kubica had just Mirror by printing fully topless land is caught in suspense as Since it is unlikely that the cordance with the Czech con- scooped victory in Formula 1, models, dispensing with the the EU presses on. Though rati- original target date of January stitution. Similarly, Poland is yet Poland’s football team had pretence of running lingerie or fied by the Polish parliament 1st will be met, a proposal was delaying ratification, first due got off to a sorry start in the swimwear fashion features. in April, the treaty still awaits made to force Ireland to ratify to a major dispute between the Euro 2008 Cup. the signature of President Lech the treaty by next March, in time Law and Justice (PiS) party and The first six editions of Polski Kaczyński. for the European Parliamentary the Presidential Palace, and Generally speaking, the Polish Sun were printed as an experi- elections in June 2009. now doubt over whether Presi- incarnation of Britain’s best- ment, with the aim of hooking Designed to address the addi- dent Kaczyński will in fact sign loved “daily rag” continues some of the 600,000 strong tion of 12 members since 2004, Irish Prime Minister Brian Co- the treaty. in much the same spirit as its Polish community in the UK. the Lisbon Treaty replaces the wen stated that Ireland needs Anglo-Saxon dad. Stalwarts of 68,000 copies of each edition EU draft constitution, which time to analyse the vote and ex- On the other hand, a poll car- the Brit version, including ago- were distributed across 3,000 failed because of rejection by plore options. A report on the ried out by Dziennik shows ny aunt Deirdre and astrologer outlets. The decision is still French and Dutch voters in reasons for the outcome and a that over 70 percent of Poles Mystic Meg, have been repli- pending on whether to revive 2005. At this point, 19 of the plan on ways to proceed are ex- support the Lisbon Treaty. cated word for word in Polish the paper on a more permanent 27 EU member states have ap- pected to be delivered at an EU Other sources indicate that the translation. Likewise, car fa- basis, and it remains to be seen proved the Lisbon Treaty, but summit in October. huge population of Poles liv- natic and all-round chatterbox whether the tabloid disappears the remaining countries must ing and working in Ireland is Jeremy Clarkson - curiously along with Poland’s Euro Cup ratify it in order to take effect. Tusk, who strongly upholds divided on the matter. a huge hit in Poland - gets a hopes. However, the lovely Ka- the signing of the document, second crack of the whip po mila from Poznań says that she Nevertheless, despite the nega- believes that the treaty is still Behind this “crisis” appears a polsku. Polish journalists flesh has “high hopes of appearing in tive result of the Irish referen- valid and that Europe will find general lack of awareness of out the rest of the paper, with Polski Sun again one day.” Her dum, EU leaders urge ratifica- a way to bring it to life. Accord- treaty contents, leading to un- a light mix of Polish and Brit- fanbase must surely agree. tion to continue. The approach ing to Tusk, Poland will not be informed slogans, which raise treats Ireland, the only member among the countries that will fears and concerns over issues state to require a referendum press Ireland. “If we begin to completely unrelated to the on Lisbon, as a problem to be forcefully speed up the process, treaty. isolated so as to limit further we will not achieve the desired difficulties. Consequently, tre- effect,” said Tusk. Many politicians base their mendous pressure is placed decisions on summaries of on Ireland and the rest of the Diplomats already expect com- the treaty instead of reading bloc. plications in the Czech Re- it themselves. Even European public and Poland, where both Commissioner Charlie Mc- French President Nicholas presidents are recognised euro- Creevy admitted that he would Sarkozy stated it is impossible sceptics. Though Ireland is the not expect “any sane and sen- for the EU to expand without the only EU country to have reject- sible person” to read the Lis- Lisbon Treaty. German Chancel- ed ratification, its decision has bon Treaty in its 200-plus page lor Merkel concurs, adding that greatly affected fellow member entirety. France, which takes the current Nice Treaty limits states, making those countries over presidency from July 1st, the Union to 25 countries. As that have yet to approve the will base its actions on exist- a champion of Ukraine’s future treaty hesitant to proceed. ing treaties, unaffected by the accession, Polish Prime Minis- Irish vote. ter Donald Tusk objects, argu- Czech President Vaclav Klaus 8 Krakow Post JULY 2008 www.krakowpost.com News Poland

Day of Reckoning for Polish Shipyards Justice Finally Served in Silesian Mine Massacre Thymn Chase Is five billion zloty on its way back to the EU? After numerous trials and several appeals over a 15-year period, the Ewa Spohn case is finally closed on an egre- gious communist crime committed in 1981. After Martial Law was declared on December 13th, 1981, hundreds of workers at the Wujek and Manifest Lipcowy mines outside of Katowice blockaded themselves inside the mines in protest. Police officers responded viciously and tried to squash the protest by force. Nine miners were killed and 25 in- jured in the altercations.

The 14 officers that allegedly opened fire on the coal miners were first brought to trial in 1993 in a Katowice regional court. The officers were acquitted in 1997 and 2001 but an appeals court overturned both decisions on procedural grounds. In May 2002 a different court convicted the officers of shooting the nine miners and injuring 25. Of course this decision was duly appealed.

Finally, on Tuesday, June 24th a Katowice appeals court gave the final word on the 14 accused police officers and upheld the 2002 decision and increased most of the jail sentences. Presiding Judge Walde- mar Szmidt made no secret of how he felt about the case when issuing the sentences, “Glory to those who idnight on the sold to ISD, the Polish affiliate Solidarity, the first free trade yards’ future has become criti- fell, because they fell in the right 26th of June, 2008 of Ukraine’s Industrial Union of union in Poland since World cally endangered during Prime cause. Those whose guilt could be was the deadline the Donbass, last year. War II, which ended up driv- Minister Donald Tusk’s watch. proven beyond a doubt will be pun- Mby which the Pol- ing the communist regime from The Prime Minister’s Civic Plat- ished.” ish government had to present Today, despite a surge in de- power in 1989. form party retorted that it was its plans for restructuring the mand for ships, Gdynia, which Kaczyński who missed the first 11 of the officers had their prison Gdańsk, Gdynia and Szczecin specialises in car carriers, pro- The EC’s loss of patience deadline in 2007 and gave as- sentences increased by one year shipyards in order to avoid duces ships at a loss. Its man- caused consternation among surances that the actions of his to 3.5 years, and two officers from having to return five billion agers failed to anticipate a 300 the shipyard workers, and three government will be investigat- three years to four years, although zloty (a sum which would bank- percent rise in steel prices and hundred of them travelled to ed by the Supreme Chamber of the court actually lowered the sen- rupt them). That is the amount did not put in place any ar- Brussels a few days ahead of Control (the state audit body, tence of police commander Romuald they have received in state aid rangements to protect them the deadline to protest, bearing which is independent of the Cieslak – who was convicted of giv- since Poland joined the EU in from currency fluctuations. placards that read, among other government and subordinate to ing the order to fire on the workers 2004. Under state aid rules, it Contracts it signed in 2005 things, “That what Russia failed the Sejm). – from 11 years in prison to six. is illegal for EU governments assumed the dollar would be to get round to, Brussels will to spend money on propping worth around three zloty, while finish off.” While their appeals On the day of the deadline, the up failing industries; any in- now it’s worth closer to two. for an extension to the deadline Treasury Minister informed Par- vestment made must ensure were listened to with sympathy liament that three potential so- long-term productivity, include The issue is an emotional one by Neelie Kroes, the EU Com- lutions to the problem are due measures to limit distortion to for Poles, not only because of missioner for Competition, her to be presented to the EC. The free market competition and be the potential for 15,000 job position remained unchanged. basic approach is to merge two financed mainly by the compa- losses in an established indus- She reminded them that the EC of the shipyards, reduce the nies themselves. try, but also because of the sym- has repeatedly asked Poland’s production capacity of each and bolism that the shipyards hold governments over the last four rely on investment from private The history of the shipyards for the Polish nation. In 1970, years to justify these actions investors to fund these plans. has been troubled since the fall dozens of people were killed at and present alternative plans The proposed investment is to of communism, and is charac- the three shipyards when the for the shipyards’ futures. come from Polish, Norwegian terised by mismanagement and security forces fired on workers and Ukrainian investors already lack of foresight. Gdynia and demonstrating against rising Needless to say, back in War- operating in heavy engineering Szczecin were privatised in the food prices. It was in Gdańsk in saw the blame throwing is in industries. If buyers are found 1990s but ended up back in gov- 1980 that a svelte Lech Wałęsa full swing. President Jarosław for these plans, the EC requires ernment hands after running became the spokesman for the Kaczy ski launched the first the sale to be agreed by the jWa[WZWojh_fje7kiY^m_jpeh 7bh[WZo_djemd5:edjademm^Wjjei[[5WdZm[bbi^emoekWbbj^[X[iji_j[iKdl[_bj^[]^eijie\j^[EbZ@[m_i^:_ijh_Yj"[nfbeh[9ecckd_ic_dDemW>kjW" ń =_l[ahWaem#jekhiWYWbbjeZWo Z[bl[')+c[jh[ikdZ[h]hekdZ_djej^[M_[b_YpaWiWbjc_d[i$ into trouble, while Gdańsk was striking workers and formed salvo by stating that the ship- 15th of July. www.krakowpost.com Krakow Post JULY 2008 9 News Poland

Roads to Euro 2012 Howard Webb to be Bumpier than Expected Offered Polish Citizenship? Opinion Thymn Chase Staff Reporter

On the heels of a rather disap- The most-hated man in Poland, Taste Lost in Translation pointing showing in this year’s Howard Webb, could be offered European Championship, Poland is Polish citizenship if a new inter- by Grażyna Zawada turning its attention to the not so net campaign by Polish football distant future as it rushes to com- fans proves successful. This might rakow’s restaurants don’t put much effort that these are deep fried mashed raw potato pan- plete hundreds of construction seem like a strange way to re- into translating their menus into English. cakes with meat and paprika sauce on it, resembling and infrastructure projects ahead ward the referee guilty of award- The same goes with various adverts, leaflets a goulash - a meat and paprika stew characteristic of June 2012, when they will co- ing that controversial penalty to Kand brochures distributed outdoors. Maybe of Hungarian cuisine. That’s it. But who would have host the next installment of the Austria, however the campaign by Krakow is not as tourist-friendly as it would seem… thought of that? Local cuisine is a sort of a non-ver- EUFA Cup. Polish fans asserts that the only bal language that one has to translate and explain to way to protect their national team One sunny afternoon I was standing at a bus stop fully show the beauty (or in this case the taste) of it. It is widely known in Poland and from his bad refereeing would be enjoying the summer sun when a lady approached in Europe that preparations are to offer Webb a passport – thus and handed me a brochure. Bored as I was I start- Another peculiarity is “po staropolsku,” translat- behind schedule, and Italy, Spain making him ineligible to officiate ed to browse it, and it turned out to be an advert ed as “in old-Polish style.” Now what is that? The and even Scotland have already games involving Poland. “It would for one of Krakow’s middle-standard lunch bars, mechanism of the translation has been explained offered their countries as possible stop him from hurting us again,” featuring a menu list. And there they were again! above, but here is another problem. The adjective last-minute alternative hosts. summed up one peeved fan. My personal favourites! You think pierogi? No, “staropolski” is used in various contexts all over Po- dear readers, I mean translation slips and inac- land, but particularly in places that are associated In early July UEFA head Michel Was it really a penalty? curacies that I simply love to drag out to daylight with Poland’s history, and Krakow is definitely one Platini will visit Warsaw and Kiev from indoor and outdoor ads all over Krakow. of them. The word brings to mind any connotations to inspect the progress of both To the neutral supporter, the associated with the times of the noblemen’s democ- countries’ preparations. He has Poles’ outcry at Webb’s deci- Actually, there’s nothing to laugh about. For me racy, roughly from the 16th to the 18th century. previously issued statements hint- sion, that started with Donald as a Pole who knows English quite well, it’s a dis- At that time, noblemen’s manors were known for ing that if Poland and the Ukraine Tusk, continued throughout the grace. It turns out that my city, although it claims preserving the best of Polish chivalry and hospital- fall too far behind then UEFA will Polish media and even resulted to be European, has features of a communist past ity traditions, and the food there was of supreme be forced to turn elsewhere. in certain fanatics sending death combined with a bourgeoisie attitude – in other quality and taste. So if you find a “staropolski” threats to the referee’s family, words, why should we bother with a professional meal or hotel, the owner wants to assure you that Poland is supposed to have over was hard to fathom. Polish mid- translation of our menu, since someone who knows there you’ll find good food and service. But unfortu- 1,100 km of new roads completed fielder Mariusz Lewandowski (a basic English can do it in no time using a diction- nately using such methods is a psychological prob- by 2012, and as of April 2008 only more appropriate subject for na- ary? And even if there was a mistake in the text, lem - such associations can only be made in Poles’ approximately 35 km had been fin- tional ire) clearly tugged on his the foreigners will definitely forgive us, as they heads, as each country and culture has its own col- ished. If this pace isn’t quickened opponent’s shirt right in front of will be delighted to be here and eat at our place… locations with what’s traditional and good. Thus, it will take Poland 30 years to Webb’s eyes – an offence which in foreigner’s heads, “staropolski” evokes nothing. complete the required infrastruc- UEFA stated they wanted to clamp The above said theory proves to be true when one ture. There are also huge prob- down on in 2008 - and the spot looks at what has been written in the ads – e.g. salm- However, restaurant owners are not aware of the lems concerning the new stadium kick was duly given. In fact, over on is written with a capital letter, whereas Paris or fact that their menus are communicating with po- complexes being constructed in the course of 90 minutes, Webb’s Budapest are spelt in lowercase; the names of the tential customers and that they are not able to un- Warsaw, Gdańsk and Wrocław. decisions favoured the Poles with ingredients or meals are completely wrong and local derstand fully what they’re being offered. For me the Austrians being denied a clear culinary peculiarities are translated literally, with- that sort of behaviour is completely opposite to Pol- According to a poll conducted by penalty earlier in the match, and out proper explanation. A good example would be ish hospitality, so much underlined in the majority the CBOS polling agency and re- their one goal – scored by a Brazil- the phrase “in Polish style” or “in any other coun- of guide books about Poland. Too bad that when a leased on the 25th of June, 77 ian – clearly offside. try or city’s style” (Hungarian, Parisian etc.). It is tourist comes, lured in by reading these menus, he percent of Poles doubt that all a literal translation of the phrase “po polsku,” “po feels completely lost and visits McDonald’s, a piz- the pieces will fall into place in Webb’s correct, yet much ma- wegiersku,” etc., which means nothing more than za restaurant or a pierogi bar, as these names do time for the 2012 Championship. ligned, decision was rendered that we Poles have associated the taste of a dish with not mean anything for them. In such a way a great Then again, even more Poles academic as Poland were unable a particular place in the world, and the dish offered deal of Poland and Krakow is lost to newcomers, but were sceptical about their team’s to defeat a second string Croatia on the menu is prepared similarly to other charac- not very many people recognise this. Since Krakow chances of qualifying for the 2008 in their final match. teristic dishes of that other country or city. So if you has spent so much on international advertising it championship. see “potato pancakes in Hungarian style,” it means could at least not waste it in such a reckless way. krakow FEIJ WANTED: INTERNATIONAL RELATIONS STUDIES IN ENGLISH Dynamic salespeople for Poland's only English newspaper! A ROUTE TO AN INTERNATIONAL CAREER Are you an energetic, enthusiastic and self-motivated sales superstar? Join us at the Tischner European University – citizens, perfectly prepared to compete in com How do you feel about working for Krakow's leading English newspaper? a young and dynamic higher education the European labour market. Apart from the institution, serving the needs of both Polish Polish study programmes, we offer a rich and international students. We aim to and innovative full time studies in English in Krakow Post is looking for professional salespeople to join its educate active, self-conﬁdent, open-minded the ﬁeld of International Relations. rapidly expanding team. BA degree 3-year programmes: MA degree 2-year programmes: You'll be responsible for building relationships with new advertising International Business Global Business clients as well as maintaining current ones. International Tourism International Tourism European Integration Central-Eastern Europe & Russia If you're fluent in Polish and want to be part of something big, then send your CV with a covering letter to Michal McSperrin-Kossak at: Detailed information on study programmes and recruitment procedures is available on the TEU website. Tischner European University [email protected] ul. 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who: Kraftwerk, Ute Lemper, Ensemble Modern, London With the summer sun blaring down, what better way to enjoy the season than amidst troves Sinfonietta, Paul Hillier, Theatre of Voices, Marc Minkowski, of sweaty youngsters and loud music? But you don’t have to jet off to the UK or U.S. to Asko Ensemble, Schönberg Ensemble, Klangforum Wien, enjoy some of the best live acts around, as Poland has its fair share of quality fests this year. musikFabrik The Krakow Post’s Summer Music Festival Guide will show you the way to rock! when: 14th-21st September where: Krakow, Philharmonic Hall, Krakowskie Błonia how much: 550 PLN for a pass, or individual tickets for each event ranging from 50-150 PLN what? Combining the new and the old, the sacred and the profane, Sacrum Profanum brings all kinds of musical genres to all kinds of settings, from the Philharmonic to abandoned factories. If you just want to see Kraftwerk for the first time in Poland, they’re playing three nights in a row in the T. Sendzimira Steelworks – finally, a reason to go to Huta. more info: www.sacrumprofanum.pl 7. who: Klaxons, Primal Scream, Happy Mondays, The (International) Noise Conspiracy, Smolik, Cool Kids of Death, not, L.Stadt, Plastic Bag when: 2nd-5th October where: Łódź, Toya Film Studio how much: 119 PLN for a pass, or individual concert tickets between 29-69 PLN what? The Klaxons in Poland? Yes, amazingly enough, this late-summer festival is ending the season with a party not to be forgotten. The event has a twist as well – bands can enter a contest to play in the festival, and the winner not only gets to play, they get a sweet prize of 100,000 PLN – and who says music doesn’t pay? more info: www.pepsivenafestival.pl 8.

who: Pendulum, Vitalic, Sasha, Junior Jack, Aphrodite, Astral Projection, Markus Schulz, Goldie, Plump DJs, Yahel, John B, John Digweed, Carl Craig, Skream, Olav Basoski, Panacea, Spor, David Morales, Counterstrike, Juan Atkins, Marika, Ronald Van Gelderen, Hernan Cattaneo, Wet Fingers, Kid Creme, John O’Callaghan, Valen- tino Kanzyani, Moshic, Slg, Dave The Drummer, Eddie Halliwell, Frank Kvitta, Lady Waks, Hagal, glasse, Diana d’Rouze, MC Wrec, Poziom X, Petter Von Coil, Forest North Project when: 16th August where: Wrocław, Airport how much: 129-139 PLN before the festival, 149 PLN day of what? Poland’s chemical kids will be gathering en masse in Wrocław this summer for the Polish edition of this world famous electronic dance festival. After 18 hours of pounding house, tech and drum and bass, delivered by big name veterans and some promising newcomers, many a saucer-eyed 17-yr-old will be desperately searching for the ambient tent. more info: www.creamfields.pl 6.

who: Timbaland, Sean Paul, Missy Elliot, The Prodigy, and more TBA when: 22nd-23rd August where: Krakow, Airfield – Aviation Museum 5. how much: TBA what? A festival with as much pop as the soda that sponsors it, CLMF has brought such acts as Rihanna, Jay-Z, Shaggy, and Lily Al- len to Krakow in the past, and this year managed to even get The Prodigy on board. Expect the Aviation Museum’s airfield to be filled with more 16-year-old girls than Slinky’s Facebook page. more info: www.livefestival.pl Krakow Post JULY 2008 11

With the summer sun blaring down, what better way to enjoy the season than amidst troves of sweaty youngsters and loud music? But you don’t have to jet off to the UK or U.S. to enjoy some of the best live acts around, as Poland has its fair share of quality fests this year. The Krakow Post’s Summer Music Festival Guide will show you the way to rock! 2. who: Mogwai, Of Montreal, Clinic, British Sea Power, James Chance and Les Contor- tions, Caribou, Menomena, Iron & Wine, Renton, Muchy, Kammerflimmer Kollektief, Plazmatikon, Motion Trio, Singapore Sling, Budyń i Sprawcy 1. Rzepaku, Homo Twist, Shofar, Modified Toy Orchestra, who: Editors, Roisin Murphy, The Raconteurs, Fischer- Polpo Motel, Waglewski Fisz Emade, Izrael’ 83, Baaba, spooner, The Cribs, DeVotchKa, DJ Vadim Live feat. Yarah Dat Politics, L.u.c & Rahim, Kling Klang, Jacaszek, Dick Bravo, Fujiya and Miyagi, Interpol, Jay-Z, Erykah Badu, 4 Dick, Lutosphere (Leszek Mozdzer, Bunio, Andrzej Sex Pistols, CocoRosie, Gentleman and The Far East Band, Bauer), Karpaty Magiczne i The Band Of Endless Noise, Massive Attack, The Chemical Brothers, Goldfrapp Afro Kolektyw, Kawałek Kulki, The Poise Rite when: 4th-6th July when: 8th-10th August where: Gdynia, Babie Doły military airport where: Mysłowice (near Krakow), Slupna Park how much: 3-day ticket: 269 PLN (289 with camping); how much: 2-day pass: 85 PLN; single day tickets: 45 single day tickets: 140 PLN each PLN; Iron & Wine: 30 PLN (separate concert) what? A massive tent-filled, debauched musical orgy what? A festival reminiscent of the good old days, the likes of Glastonbury or Roskilde (but much cheaper), before commercialism ruled the circuit. Not only does the Heineken Open’er Festival is seven stages, dozens Off feature the best indie and alternative acts playing of bands, and three days of guaranteed sleepless and in Poland – Polish and foreign - but you won’t see exhausting fun. McDonald’s or KFC food stands here – it’s all local, more info: www.opener.pl cheap, and independent – the way music festivals were meant to be. more info: www.2008.off-festival.pl

3. who: O.S.T.R., Cool Kids of Death, Ścianka, Kombajn Do Zbierania Kur Po Wioskach, George Dorn Screams, Dick4- Dick, California Stories Uncovered, 2Cztery7, Hatifnats, Renton, Perspecto, Pawilon, Plug&Play, Drewno From Las, Gentleman!, Kumka Olik, Phantom Taxi Ride, Très.B, Hotel Kosmos, White Rabbit’s Trip, Alchemi, Dog Palace, Folder when: 10th-12th July where: Reda (near Gdynia), MOKSiR how much: 10 PLN per day what? A “Festival of Young Cultures” – i.e. kids born in the 80s sporting guitars and sounding like bands that were playing while they themselves were still in diapers. The first edition of this festival does boast an impressive line-up, and with nearly every Polish indie act on board, the price is hard to beat. more info: www.rafineria.net

4. who: Film, Coldcut, Michael Nyman, Skalpel, Mugison, The Matthew Herbert Big Band, Pitch Black, C-Mon & Kypski, Youngblood Brass Band, Kode 9, Kaada, Oszibarack, The Heavy, Eleni Karaindrou, Michael Fakesch, Food For Animals, Gutek, Digit all Love, Hoppy Kamiyama, Column One, Jessie Evans, Tibor Szemzö, Moana and the Tribe, Kamiyama when: 17th-27th July where: Wrocław how much: 105 PLN for a festival pass, or single tickets at varying prices what? Though primarily a film festival, Era New Horizons’ impressive musical line-up won it a deserved spot in this guide. Many of the concerts are actually screenings of silent films with a live musical soundtrack, though a few are straight-up, all-night DJ events. more info: 8ff.eranowehoryzonty.pl 12 Krakow Post JULY 2008 www.krakowpost.com Technology

Cisco Systems Boosting Local Know-How

John Beauchamp

veryone in Krakow like a Polish Silicon Valley. up company has a 50 percent Spirit AeroSystems (Europe) Limited knows the big names Cisco is to provide their ex- chance of surviving. That’s in that have invested in tensive business experience, Poland, as well as in the U.S., Manufacturing Engineer- Mielec Poland Ethis city. People quite the universities are to train my informant told me. By in- happily reel off names like the IT wizards, and the prov- creasing that number to 60 Must have a very high degree of proﬁciency in written and verbal IBM, Motorola, and more re- ince, well, I’ll get to that later. or even 70 percent, there is communication in both Polish and English so as to support technical cently Google, yet there is a possibility to “move GDP.” translation between Spirit AeroSystems and their In-Country supplier. not a lot of talk about Cisco, Ramon Tancinco, a Cisco ex- That phrase put me in awe of another huge multinational ecutive based in Krakow, ex- the whole situation. How a sin- Needs to demonstrate at least two years experience in a detail currently present in Poland. plains that the agreement is gle multinational can change fabrication and machining environment, ideally including an awareness of In fact, the firm has been in two-fold: to find out where an entire country’s economic implementing/embodying engineering changes. Poland since 2000, and has the city and province want indices is incredible. We’ve all just stepped up its activity to be headed, and then apply heard tales of Microsoft hav- An ability to work in and travel between, both the UK and Poland is at a grass-roots level, which global experience on a local ing a higher turnover than essential as well as other international travel as required. The candidate may be a result of its Cor- scale. All very honourable, but the Republic of Poland. Well, must be able to develop and maintain close working relationships with a porate Social Responsibility talking to Doctor Piotr Dudek it might be like that, but on a range of Internal and External Stakeholders. (CSR) policy. Some very inter- from the PK, a lot of work as slightly more humane scale. esting initiatives have come far as funding is concerned And with a model of co-oper- Experience within the commercial aerospace industry is desirable, along out of a three-way agreement still needs to be done. Money ation that is “top-down, bot- with an appreciation of the complexity of supply chain challenges. on co-operation, signed be- is always tight in universities, tom-up,” there indeed is scope tween Cisco, the Małopolska yet Dr. Dudek hopes that Cis- for changing the way that new Province, and three leading co will help improve the qual- technologies are managed in pirit AeroSystems is the worlds leading supplier of commercial academic institutions in the ity of teaching as a result of Krakow and Malopolska. Saerostructures and Systems. It’s European Division, based in city, the Jagiellonian Univer- the agreement. Prestwick Scotland, produces components & structures for Boeing, sity, the AGH University of On the provincial level, the Airbus and Hawker Beechcraft. Science and Technology, and I had the great pleasure to IT sector is already making the Politechnika Krakowska meet Mr. Tancinco over a cof- headway. What is interest- Please apply stating salary expectations to: [email protected] (PK), with its high-brow Eng- fee, and we spoke of local life. ing is that no public money Please quote “Krakow Post Application” in the subject heading. lish translation, the Cracow Our conversation turned to is going into the three-way University of Technology. how, in reality, such an agree- co-operation. The province is ment might work in Poland. to promote the co-operation of getting off the ground, es- Central and Eastern Europe. The agreement is to get IT (in- The answer, filled with facts in Poland, and in this day of pecially with such big names Let’s hope that some of that formation technologies) start- and figures, was an assuring inter-regional competition already in the vicinity. Cisco will be coming here. ups off the ground with a view one, and indeed very optimis- within the European Union, does, however, have 30 mil- of making Krakow something tic. In general, a small start- the province has a real chance lion euros for IT start-ups in

Blogosphere Speaking in Tongues scatts, The Polandian

wondered if we might explore the trea- “ma-ma!”. But this was a common thread advanced for a three year old, but it had Her English has also improved greatly in I sure chest that is bilingualism? of the very early stages, English was obviously been used in conversation, she the last year. Not to the same extent as playing a bigger part than we imagined it had learnt it and then decided to try it her Polish but when we visit the UK she One year ago, my daughter, Zosia, had just would. Or so we thought. out. has absolutely no problem getting on with passed her fourth birthday. One particu- my family and friends. I think her English larly fascinating aspect of fatherhood up With the benefit of hindsight, it was It was only around the time of her 4th would by now be far better if she was at- to that point, and since, has been watch- everyone else who wanted to categorise birthday that she worked out that there tending an international or British school ing her language develop in a household her communications as one language or are two separate languages in her life. and getting more advanced English les- where both Polish & English are used. another. I’m convinced that for her, Polg- English works well with daddy (and a few sons. As it is, we decided that she would lish was just one big language (with very other freaks) and Polish with everyone attend a Polish school and therefore the We decided from the start that I would confusing grammar!) and she was picking else. The time I really noticed we were English lessons are way below her capa- speak English to her all the time and whichever parts she liked best. Her un- making progress was in the middle of one bilities. She needs to learn more English mum Polish. Alongside this, mum and I derstanding of both languages had always night when she woke with a problem. This words and have some serious grammar continued to speak English between us been equally excellent but her speech time of night/morning had been exclusive- lessons. We’ll organise this but perhaps whilst rest of the family & world around back then had been a mixture of the ly Polish, same as when she was sick or not for another year or so. Apart from her continued to speak Polish. This seems two with a leaning towards Polish. This just very tired, but on this particular oc- grammar, her biggest issue at this very a cruel trick to play on a young baby who resulted in, well, a bit of mess. I would be casion I went to her and was told “Daddy, moment is confusing “any” and “no” as in had enough to worry about already, but speaking English, she would be replying in I’m cold.” anything, nothing, anyone, no-one. There we did it, and she just soaked it all up and Polish but a bunch of words would always are many other smaller mistakes made, stuck to her neutral “Ba ba,” “Ooo Ga” and be English. Sentences like “dai mi sweet!” Since then, we have stuck largely to the like “Get me up” instead of “Lift me up”. “Eeek!”, which we all understood perfectly or “where my parasolka is?” were entirely plan of English from me and Polish from Another one that is taking an age to cor- well as “feed me,” “take me for a walk” normal. The “r” sound was very confusing. mummy although the two do still get rect is “Look on me/something” instead and “clean up this mess!”. She could pronounce “read” and “red” per- intertwined quite regularly mostly with of “Look at me/something”. I just repeat fectly whereas in Polish it was still “lyba” her substituting Polish words where she what she said, but correctly, she listens Of course, babcia will tell you that “ba-ba” (fish) & “lower” (bicycle). But then again, does not know the English equivalent. An and we get on with life. There is some was the first word spoken because Zosia “plaster” was “plastel” and “rózowy” had example from today, she had the boots evidence that this process works. When all wanted to reach out to her as a matter of a great “r.” but was looking for the rest of mummy’s is said and done, considering that I’m not urgency. It probably was the first sound horse riding equipment and the question sitting with her and giving English lessons used in any consistent manner but as far She loved new words and phrases which was “Where is mummy’s caly sprzet for in any way, she is coming on remarkably as I’m concerned the first word was prob- would go in and out of fashion every this?”. Naturally enough, her Polish has well... ably “da-da,” as in “daddy” (as opposed week. I remember especially my amaze- advanced fastest and is really excellent for to “ta-ta” from “tata”). All I can remember ment when Zosia said “It’s disappeared!” her age, even yesterday a nice old lady sat is how annoyed mummy was that after all for the first time, perfectly in context. near us commented that Zosia has “very To read more, visit >> the hard work she’d put in carrying the This was not a word I had been teaching good Polish” and was deeply impressed by www.polandian.wordpress.com little angel around for 9 months, it wasn’t her at all, I probably thought it was too her ability to switch languages. www.krakowpost.com Krakow Post JULY 2008 13 Business

Buying a Flat in Krakow: Part 1

John Marshall Business in Brief

eing quite satisfied with buyer’s market right now and will two-roomed fairly modern flat in I’m generally able to disregard the Złoty Rises Again my three years in Poland continue to be so for the rest of a middling district. Well, ok, it’s well-rehearsed dinner-party con- and feeling the Cancerian the year. (Ahem: This would seem not the Wawel, but then again who versations regarding the absolute The National Bank of Poland Bneed to put down a few to be the right point to declare wants to pay the administration minimum number of bedrooms, hiked up interest rates at the end roots, I decided last January to that, as an English teacher and on that? distances to the local shops and of June, sending the zloty fly- put things on a more permanent writer, all my business knowledge school league tables, and concen- ing against the euro to a record footing. Having recently sold my has been gathered from old reruns As we all know, buying somewhere trate instead on actually finding high. The country’s central bank house in England I was looking for of “The Apprentice” and snatched to live is, for most of us, the somewhere that I know I’m going raised its key interest by a quar- a good home for my money. Now, episodes of “Location Location Lo- biggest financial decision of our to enjoy living and spending time ter of a percentage point, in a being a stereotypical Englishman, cation,” glimpsed in moments of lives – and I’m very picky. Frankly, in (there’s the Cancer again, you move designed to battle rising semi-obsessed with property own- weakness.) I was not impressed with what I see). inflation. Since April 2007, the ership and with a healthy distrust regarded as different variations rate has been increased eight of banks, there was only one so- And so, more through intuition on the “box in the sky” theme. And now I’ve found it; my very times, to its current rate of six lution: buy a flat - both to live in than any penetrating market In England there is a wide range own flat. I can relax, kick back, percent. The central bank is ex- and, possibly, as an investment. knowledge, here is another bold of styles to be had, for all but make myself at home! No more pected to keep raising the rates statement: prices are set to rise the smallest budget: flat, semi- schlepping around town, picking through the end of the year, as a Now, I can see some of the more again. Why? Because the Polish detached, terraces, bungalow, up out-of-date Post Office messag- response to a booming economy longer-serving ex-pats already economy (and the zloty) is boom- for example. I’m not making es from ex-girlfriends’ flats, try- with rising wages and inflation. shaking their heads. “Oh, you ing, British and Irish property value judgments here: thirty- ing to remember if I’m registered should have bought a few years prices have peaked (encouraging odd years surrounded by certain or not and wondering just who While this news is good for Polish ago, John.” You see? “A friend of foreign investment), and, most styles of architecture and built the hell is supposed to change the pockets, it may put a damper mine had the chance to buy the importantly, many emigrant Poles environment can’t help but form, light bulbs in the hall, anyway? on Poland’s tourist industry, as Wawel and St. Mary’s Church not are starting to return home intent or even skew, your opinions. So From now on, life seems set to be tourists may be deterred when three years ago for only ninety- on developing land or putting a I kept going: checking out estate much simpler. they find prices not as low as five thousand...” You get the pic- deposit on their own flat. And, agents’ windows, listening to each they expected against the euro ture. whilst primarily seeking some- new agent telling me s/he has Of course, nobody ever said it or pound. A study has found where to live rather than to invest exactly what I want (which always would be easy, right? And be- that already up to the month of Yes, property in Poland has risen in, I was encouraged to try my amazed me, considering I hadn’t a tween incompetent (yet expen- June, 10 percent fewer tourists two or three-fold over the last five luck in this buyer’s market. clue myself), and generally seeing sive) banks, an elusive financial had visited Poland than in 2007. years, particularly in the desirable more new streets than a London adviser, unavoidable (yet all too The zloty has already risen areas of the larger cities. So much Of course, anticipated problems cabbie doing “the knowledge.” common) trips to urząd miasta seven percent against the euro so that the market has, in many with language, bureaucracy and (local government offices) and the since the start of the year. areas, peaked. In Krakow at least, doing business in a different cul- I wanted character (budget al- signing of seemingly hundreds of prices have stagnated for the past ture were all to play their part. lowing, of course) and perhaps a documents, it nearly didn’t hap- year and there has even been a But the first question was: where park, if possible (to walk in, not pen. But it did. And, in part two general reduction in asking pric- to live? Now, on my budget the to own). A tall order but not insur- next month, I’ll tell you how I did es, of at least 10 percent. It is a choices were rather limited: a mountable. As an unmarried man, it.

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Polish Sporting Summer

Daniël van Hoven

t’s that time of year again to hear their national anthem is threatening to boycott the when sport takes hold practically at the same time on event in China because of the of everybody around the both sides of the Atlantic. repression of the people of Ti- Iworld as major sporting bet. Fortunately for the event events seem to get underway Football deception. itself, a lot of athletes feel they on a virtually daily basis. The have to participate, because in Giro of Italy kicks off the sum- The euphoria was short-lived. the most hypothetical situa- mer season for cyclists, the Poland’s performance at the tion, sports and politics don’t world’s best tennis players Euro 2008 tournament was very mix and should stay away from gather for the French Open, poor. It took a Brazilian in an one another as far as possible. Despite Poland being out early, Poles continued to watch Euro 2008 followed a little later by Wim- offside position to score the bledon. In between, sports only Polish goal of the tourna- No doubt, some atheletes in the most successful Olympic ath- held in Poznań and are consid- fans can enjoy the Formula 1 ment. Worst of all, that game Polish camp also wish to speak lete ever - has already retired. ered strong outsiders in Beijing. Monaco Grand Prix, the NBA fi- ended in a draw and it was out about the atrocities taking But now there is Paweł Korzen- The quadruple sculls, never a nals, the Tour de France - and against the only team on the place in the mountains of Tibet. iowski. And no, they are not fear factor for the competition, the Euro Football Champion- tournament weaker than the But the fact remains that China related to one another. While suddenly have become top fa- ships (now sadly over) added Poles themselves. The only already had a bad record on hu- Robert excelled on terra firma, vourites with Marek Kolbowicz yet more excitement to 2008. player performing up to his man rights when the Olympic Paweł is Poland’s second ace on board. As a solo rower, he But once every four years a par was goalie Artur Boruc, games were awarded to them candidate in the water. The has been crowned world cham- sporting contest is organised who prevented Poland from be- in the first place. Leaving that Oswięcim-born 23-year-old is pion three times, reclaiming his that eclipses all those prestig- ing humiliated by opponents out of the picture, according to the current Polish, European top spot each and every year ious events mentioned so far, Germany, Austria and Croatia. international law, China right- and world champion for the since 2005. and in 2008 it has thankfully Needless to say, Poland did not fully states that others should 200 metre butterfly for men. A come around again. I refer to, survive the group stages of the not interfere with internal mat- definite Pole with potential. 235 athletes defending Polish of course, the summer Olym- tournament. ters. colours and honour pic games, which this year Szymon Ziółkowski is another will be held in China’s capital, For the players, the coach and Polish potential hope, albeit an outside one, for Furthermore, Marek Plawgo Beijing. Time now to examine the football-minded part of the a medal in Beijing. The hammer (400m hurdles, athletics), To- Poland’s chances, and their Polish nation, it meant sitting Despite talk of boycotts, the thrower from Poznań already masz Majewski (shot put, ath- other sporting achievements out, crying out and getting the majority of the world’s greatest reached eternal glory by “ham- letics), Anna Rogowska and so far this summer. team back into shape before athletes will no doubt gather mering” it all the way to Olympic Monika Pyrek (both pole vault, the qualifications start for the in Beijing in 2008 to compete gold eight years ago in Sydney. athletics), Robert Krawczyk Summer starts nicely for Po- World Cup 2010. But for many against one another for a cov- At 32, this summer surely rep- and Janusz Wojnarowicz (both land. other athletes, this summer is eted Olympic medal. Which of resents his last chance to add judo), Mateusz Kuszniere- just getting started. Poland’s finest are strong can- to his Olympic medal count. wicz (sailing), and Agnieszka Poland’s sporting summer be- didates to collect another gold Radwańska (tennis), should be gan extraordinarily in the early “The games must go on!” for the proud red and white? Team sports considered serious contestants days of June. Female tennis for Olympic medals. They are player Agnieszka Radwańska The slogan “the games must Otylia Jędrzejczak belongs If Poland wasn’t successful in amongst the 235 Polish athletes reached the fourth round of go on” can be traced back to firmly to the favourites for win- the game where they had to that have already qualified for the French Open, a tremendous the drama of the 1972 summer ning a medal in the swimming kick the ball, maybe they will the Olympics. achievement, which, together games in Munich, when Israeli pool. Jędrzejczak (24), born have a better chance using with her three tournament wins athletes were held hostage and exactly two years after martial their hands. Both the men and “Poland has not yet succumbed,” of 2008 in Pattaya (Thailand), later put to death by Palestinian law was declared in Poland, women of the Polish volleyball are the opening words of the Istanbul (Turkey) and East- militant terrorists. Although the could use another gold medal. team have qualified for the Ol- Polish national anthem, which bourne (UK), gave the 19-year- Olympics are meant “to serve She auctioned the one that she ympic tournament. But where at the moment are very applica- old from Krakow an 11th place the development of mankind, won during the 2004 Olympics the Polish men’s team seemed ble to the state of Polish minds. in the tennis world rankings. to stimulate a worldwide peace- in Athens to raise money for a to have timed their rise in form While the summer of sports be- ful society and to be concerned children’s hospital in Wrocław. to coincide with the Games, it gan beautifully with Kubica rac- But the season soon got even with prevailing the dignity of Also, she wants to perform well seems that the women peaked ing to victory, the Poles had to sweeter for the Poles. On June every human on the planet” since these are the first major in between the Olympics of swallow a huge disappointment 8th another sportsman from (according to the principles of games she has competed in 2004 and 2008. Nevertheless, when Poland suddenly forgot Krakow performed something the Olympic movement), inter- since her brother died in a car both the male and female team how to play decent football. But which many deemed impos- national political struggle often crash in 2005. Otylia herself in this discipline have a fair the Olympics in Beijing are just sible. Robert Kubica drove his tends to overhaul the simple was behind the wheel. chance of climbing the podium. the right occasion to make up BMW car in Canada to the first philosophy of “just fun and Meanwhile, the male handball for that. Unlike the national an- ever Formula 1 win for himself games.” What’s in a name? team are the current vice-cham- them, where it is stated that the and for Poland. Due to the time pions of the world and will at- Poles reclaim their land after difference, the Polish national In 1936, Nazi Germany was on Robert Korzeniowski was Po- tempt to level or even improve marching all the way from Italy, anthem was being heard world- the rise when the Games were land’s guarantee for a gold that achievement in Beijing. it is Polish sporting honour that wide twice in quick succession. held in Hitler’s backyard. The medal during the last four sum- is at stake, with the red and The ceremony in Canada had West boycotted the 1980 Ol- mer games (unbeaten since At- However, Poland’s major chanc- white hoping to reclaim Polish just ended when Poland’s na- ympics in Moscow and the East lanta 1996!) in the discipline es in team disciplines remain in glory in sports, whilst march- tional football squad walked returned the favour four years of walking. His sister, Sylwia - or more precisely on - the wa- ing back from China to Poland. onto the pitch to take on Ger- later by not appearing on the Korzeniowska will compete in ter. The eight men of the Polish many. It must have been a very Olympic stage of Los Ange- Beijing in the women’s 20 km rowing team performed very proud moment for the Poles les. And today, half the world race walk, but Robert - Poland’s well during the Olympic trials www.krakowpost.com Krakow Post JULY 2008 15 Culture

Copernicus: A Cosmic Bore?

While Copernicus’s legacy is not a matter for dispute, the value of his work in itself is the subject of much controversy. In his survey of the great astronomers entitled The Sleepwalkers, Arthur Koestler is merciless in his estimation of the man. He calls him “devoid of originality and imagination... a stuffy pedant, without the flair, the sleepwalking intuition of a real genius; who, having got hold of a good idea, expanded it into a bad system, patiently plodding on, piling more epicycles and deferents into the dreariest and most unreadable among the books that made history.”

Koestler goes on to assert that none of the great men who built on Copernicus’s heliocentric idea read De revolutionibus... past the introduction; that the work itself is filled with contradictions and glaring inaccuracies; and that in fact it ends up placing a vacuum, and not the sun, in the centre of the solar system. The book evidently features only twenty- seven of his own observations, the rest having been borrowed from ancient scholars read in doubtful translations. These twenty-seven observations are themselves of doubtful value, because Coper- Image courtesy of Christie’s Images Ltd. 2008 nicus’s astronomical instruments were second-rate, and did not permit him to make accurate Copernicus Fetches Astronomical Sum measurements.

Finally, Copernicus’s book is remarkable for having been Masterpiece sells for world record price such a poor seller, and in a time Soren Gauger when there was a wide interest in astronomy. De revolutioni- Christie’s – the world’s leading tronomer’s own whims) is, of Jagiellonian Library held an the collection numbered over bus... never sold out its original auction house – sold a copy of course, the celebrated scientist original copy of De revolutioni- 300 books, and brought in a to- thousand-copy print run, and was Nicolaus Copernicus’s De revo- who replaced our notion of a bus... until ten years ago, when tal of more than $11 million. reprinted only four times over the lutionibus orbium coelestium geocentric cosmos with a helio- it was stolen. course of four centuries. The first (On the Revolutions of the Heav- centric one. As such, his name Tom Lecky, Head of Books and English translation appeared only enly Spheres) for a staggering is practically synonymous with The copy of De revolutionibus... Manuscripts at Christie’s New in 1953, which no doubt contrib- 2.2 million dollars at their New revolution in thought. Though sold at the auction was the gem York, commented that the auc- uted to the book’s aura. York sale on June 17th. he died practically upon pub- of the Richard Green collection, tion “confirmed the strength of lication of his most important a scientific library begun in the the scientific field, and more

Though considered the fin- book, his work spurred on such

est extant copy of the ground- fathers of modern physics and Though he died practically upon pub- breaking work held in private astronomy as Johannes Kepler, hands, estimates of the going Tycho de Brahe and Galileo. lication of his most important book,“ price turned out to be conservative – the sale price more or less Copernicus was also one of the “ his work spurred on many fathers of doubled forecasts of 900,000- Jagiellonian University’s most 1.2 million dollars. As such, the famous alumni. He spent his modern physics and astronomy... sale has set a new record for youth in Krakow, and even in his any Copernicus manuscript. old age, from his castle at the Baltic Sea, was given to making 1970s. Other prominent first than doubled presale expec- Nicolaus Copernicus (1473- enigmatic comments about liv- editions sold were works by tations.” He added that “the 1543) (Coppernic, Koppernieck, ing on the Vistula river (whose Einstein, Darwin, Galileo, and highlight of the sale was the ex- Kopperlingk, Koppernigk, Cop- nearest tributary was forty kilo- an original copy of the world’s ceedingly fine copy of Nicolaus pernig, Kopernik or Coppher- metres away) and about living first telephone book, published Copernicus’s De revolutioni- nic, depending on the country on “the meridian of Krakow” only two years after the tele- bus.” which claims him and the as- (which was patently false). The phone’s invention. Altogether Copernicus statue on the Planty 16 Krakow Post JULY 2008 www.krakowpost.com nnn CultureCulture Culture

Pola Negri: Queen of the Vamps CULTURE IN BRIEF

Wajda Starts on New Film

A lavish exhibition in Łódź celebrates Andrzej Wajda, who’s recent Poland’s greatest star of the silver screen, film Katyń won him his fourth Pola Negri. Oscar nomination, began production on a new picture last month. Tatarak sees a return to familiar territory as the film Nick Hodge is based on a story by the late Jarosław Iwaszkiewicz, an author whose work inspired two of the director’s most distinctive ol Scheibler, “the Cotton King” of fashion, I would prefer to excuse films: The Birchwood (1970) Łódź, you could well imagine Pola him on the grounds that all clowns and The Maids of Wilko (1979). floating up the stairs, festooned in live in a world of fantasy.’’ Tatarak tells the tale of an age- diamonds, a handful of admirers ing doctor’s wife who, struggling in tow. Andrzej Wajda shot scenes Negri’s star began to wane after to come to terms with the past, from his lavish filmZiemia Obiecana her melodramatic behaviour at the is thrown in an unexpected di- (The Promised Land) here, and he funeral of her next beau, Rudolph rection. Krystyna Janda, one cut his teeth as a director a few Valentino, and her later years were of the grandes dames of Polish streets away at the city’s famed spent in relative obscurity. That stage and screen, will take the film school, alma mater of Polan- said, she continued to wear de- lead role. Janda won interna- ski, Zanussi and Kieslowski. All of signer eyelashes to the very end. tional fame in 1981 for her role the above are commemorated with In 1987, a young doctor doing the in Wajda’s Man of Iron, a land- a glitzy star on the city’s “Walk of rounds at a San Antonio clinic asked mark film of the Solidarity era. Fame,” and naturally, Pola was one an eccentric old lady what she had of the first ladies to get the gold done in her civilian life. Rising with star treatment. a flush of classic Polish pride, Pola declared: “I was the greatest film Mrożek Moves On Fans of the “Roaring Twenties” will actress in the world.” With that in find their very own promised land mind, the former queen of Holly- Iconic (and often ironic) Polish at the Kinomuzeum this month. The wood made her final bow - at her writer Sławomir Mrożek has curators have hauled up a mighty own funeral - sporting a gleaming been a presence in the city of catch of Pola paraphernalia. Be- golden turban and matching chiffon Krakow for nearly a decade. Any sides continuous screenings of her dress. fan of his works could spot him classic roles and a brand new US sipping coffee on Gołębia Street, documentary, cinephiles can savour contemplating his next book a hoard of film posters, stills, pro- - or lately, his move. 45 years grammes and costumes. Many of ago, the writer left Poland for the pieces have been jetted in from the first time and lived in Italy, overseas, with Paramount Pictures France, and Mexico. Of course, and Deutsches Filminstitut amongst back then the political situation the lenders to the show. in the country was quite different, and Mrożek left in order to As you’d expect, the overwhelming write uncensured. He returned impression is one of a smouldering to Krakow in 1996. Courtesy of The Museum of Cinemaography, Łódź screen siren: “Yes,” Negri affirmed in a 1978 interview, “I introduced Now, the 78-year-old writer sex into films… but it was sex in has left again, this time for here’s something about mother and a Slovak gypsy who was good taste and left a lot to the good. He emigrated to Nice in the style of the twenties exiled to Siberia for plotting against imagination.” Although not con- southern France with his wife and thirties that lends it- the Tsar, she blitzed her way onto ventionally beautiful, Negri was a in June. Mrożek said he feels at self especially well to the the Polish stage and became Hol- force of nature, full of energy and home in France, a country that creationT of cruel, all conquering lywood’s greatest star of the Silent blessed with a keen sense of style. awarded him the Legion of Hon- vamps on a mission to humiliate Era. She married twice: a count and Even during her last film role in our in 2003. However, he did not mankind. Agatha Christie’s tales a prince, but grabbed most of her 1964, she bowled over the London specify the reason for his move, have a never-ending cast of cal- headlines for her affairs with Char- press by turning up to a conference though one can imagine he’d lous vixens in cocktail dresses, their lie Chaplin and Rudolph Valentino. with a cheetah on a leash. like to spend his retirement on cigarette holders poised, recently Duels were declared over her, and the sunny beaches of the Medi- deceased minks curling round the Negri was even said to have had a Chaplin was seemingly smitten as a Poster for the film Mazurka (1935) terranean. shoulders. These brazen ballbreak- liaison with Adolf Hitler (the Fuhrer young man: “Why she should love ers will dispatch a pair of million- was a devoted fan). The star was so me is something I will never un- “Pola Negri: Legenda Kina” runs Though you can’t get to know aires for breakfast, followed by a incensed by the latter claim that derstand,” he mused. “I lack the until the 30th of July at the Mrożek in person any longer, cluster of dumb-founded dukes for she sued a French paper for dam- physique, the physical strength Museum of Cinematography in you can still get to know him lunch. ages, winning 10,000 francs for her that a beautiful woman admires. Łódź, (Plac Zwyciestwa 1, www. through his works: Tango, The troubles. However, perhaps it is best that I do kinomuzeum.pl). Ugrupu Bird, Striptease, Repeat Pola Negri never starred in a Chris- not question the gifts of the gods.” Performance, and The Prophets, tie adaption, but her life was every The Museum of Cinematography in Later, in his memoirs, the comedian The exhibition will also be shown Vatzlav, and The Elephant are bit as colourful - arguably much Łódź is a winningly glamorous venue backtracked somewhat, to which at the 33rd Gdynia Film Festival, all available in English transla- more so – than the English author’s for a Pola Negri show. Housed in a Negri retorted: “Rather than say he mid-September. tion. creations. The daughter of a Polish palace that once belonged to Kar- behaved in less than a gentlemanly More info at www.polanegri.com www.krakowpost.com Krakow Post JULY 2008 17 Culture

PHOTO OF THE MONTH REEL LIFE

THEME: WIANKI FESTIVAL Joe Strummer: The Future is Unwritten A clash with a punk legend

Joe Strummer: The Future is Unwritten is a documentary, not about the Joe Strummer that became famous as the frontman of The Clash, but about John Gra- ham Mellor, Woody, and Joe Strummer – all of the names and phases of Strummer’s life. What sets it apart from most other rock documentaries is the optimism and positive outlook the film leaves in its wake. Perhaps it’s because of Strummer’s rather ordinary death – heart defect at the age of 50, not suicide at 29 – that leaves the film to focus on his extraordinary life. The overwhelming message of the film, however, is the importance of a human community, something Strummer would build every place he went. Starting with a London squat that became a community of rebels and musicians and the setting of his first successful band, to the family he created with The Clash, to the concept of community gatherings he would later organize, Strummer himself stressed the importance of people working together frequently later in his life. While his ten years with The Clash made him famous, they also brought all of the stresses of the rock’n’roll lifestyle with them, including the fatigue of life on the road and dealing with becoming famous and wealthy, whilst trying to maintain the punk message. When the problems caught up with them and The Clash imploded, Strummer went through his darkest times; but instead of falling prey to his depression and self-destructing, he sur- vived and came back even stronger, becoming involved in several musical projects before his death. Luckily, this movie manages to tell the story of Strummer’s life not just during but also after The Clash, and shows with great emotion the deep impact he made on everyone around him.

Joe Strummer: The Future is Unwritten is playing at Kino Pasaż, Rynek Główny 9 SHELF IMPROVEMENT Do it in Warsaw! by Agnieszka Kowalska and Łukasz Kamiński An alternative guide to Warsaw

Warsaw has always struck me as a bit like the eponymous hero of the Shamen’s hit single, “Ebeneezer Goode” – ie. very much maligned and misunderstood. This fact was confirmed by a recent internet survey which rated Warsaw as the joint second most boring capital in Europe, alongside Oslo, Zurich and Zagreb, and behind only Brussels (it remains unclear how many Cracovians voted in this survey). It was in response to this disastrous piece of PR that proud Varsovians, Agnieszka Kowalska and Łukasz Kamiński, produced Do it in Warsaw!, an insider’s guide to the city. Within its glossy pages, the energetic duo extol the virtues of all manner of alternative activities in Warsaw, such as eating grilled trout by the lakes in Park Skaryszewski, playing “turbo golf” in abandoned factories or taking tea in an erstwhile public toilet. The guide portrays the city’s idiosyncra- July’s Photo of the Month was taken by Grzegorz Chorus cies, unapologetically, with rose-tinted glasses, meaning there are times when (www.flickr.com/photos/12382390@N02) you have to ask who are they kidding. A walk around a housing estate and its “On the shortest night of the year, Poles celebrate like the rest of the world celebrates the New garden allotments was one of several hooks that didn’t have me biting. Overall, Year” however, it’s hard not to be swept away by the authors’ enthusiasm for their home town, and to share their fascination in the minutiae of life in the capital. In August Krakow Post will publish the best “cooling off” photo. All entries welcome. Send If you want to jump off the bandwagon of Warsaw critics, and get under the skin entries to [email protected] by August 25th. of this great city, Do it in Warsaw! will prove an invaluable asset.

Do It In Warsaw! is published by Gazeta Co Jest Grane Language

Trips off the Tongue Is Polish really that difficult? Or is that just a myth, an over-used excuse touted by lazy language students? Let’s find out…Krakow Post introduces a series of brief lessons, which should prove useful when learning this beautiful language, as prepared by a native Polish linguist and teacher. Grażyna Zawada

Q: When can I use the ubiqui- A: First of all, “dawaj” is an in the example, means “go!”, agement, mainly in sports. Confused by Polish gram- tous word “Dawaj!?” It seems imperative form of the word “come on!”, “do it!” – what- Sometimes the phrase may be mar? Send your query to have many confusing uses “dawać.” “Dawać” is the im- ever the person is doing. But used ironically when a person – eg. when someone shouts it perfective pair of “dać” (to when somebody is excited and is unable to do something, or to editor@krakowpost. at a football player, are they give many times – impf./to shouts in front of a TV it’s dif- is having difficulties with do- com, and our Polish saying “come on” or “pass give once – perf.). In its basic ficult to get the exact meaning something, despite trying linguist may answer your the ball?” Some say it in meaning, “dawaj” is rather ing – it may be “run faster,” hard (but be careful, it may question in the next the gym, I suppose then it’s rude, and means “give it to “pass the ball,” “head for the get somebody’s goat!). edition of “Trips off the encouragement. But it just me right now!”. The other goal,” etc. All in all, this word Tongue!” means “give (it)” - right? meaning of “dawaj!”, as used is used as an informal encour- 18 Krakow Post JULY 2008 www.krakowpost.com nnn CultureCulture Culture

Live Review: Music Hats off to Jamiroquai Duncan Rhodes Interview: Maciek Maleńczuk Thymn Chase photo Kasia Adamek

Two years ago it was Marillion, last year Banarama and in 2008 it was Jamiroquai who took centre stage at Krakow’s Wianki celebrations. At this rate of improvement we can fully expect Radiohead to pitch up in 2009. czuk on stage /

ń It has to be a good sign for the city that the citizens of Krakow no longer have to put up with has-beens enjoying a last throw of the rock and roll dice come Midsum- Male mer’s night, and it was with genuine excitement that I fought my way through a tightly packed crowd to the aciej Maleńczuk is the heading then I am all for it. real man. You need to keep a certain riverfront, where a patch of grass had my name on it. reigning bad boy of distance from yourself. Polish Rock. He start- KP: What are the similarities between As the band launched into its opening number, it was ed out busking on the Gypsy music and the blues? KP: On the other hand, do famous immediately apparent, however, that the sound engi- streetsM of Krakow in the mid 80s MM: The similarities are that they people have some kind of responsibil- neer had been too conservative with the decibel levels after spending four years in prison are both straight from the street, ity to the public? (as had Jay Kay with his choice of hat), meaning that any for refusing to serve in the Polish straight from the ground. They are MM: Well… I’m not singing that ev- chance of gig-like intensity, and excitement, was lost – military. Since such humble begin- the musical traditions of poor people, erything is cool; I’m not singing that except perhaps for those VIPs who had managed to blag tickets at the floating platform in front of the stage. nings, he has gone on to be one from those outside of human society everything is beautiful. [I’d] rather Back on the Wawel side of the Wisła we tapped our feet, of the most prolific and influential and everything else. Blues is simple not, I don’t think so. Money doesn’t rather than went wild, to the British band’s uniquely Polish singers of the last 25 years, and Gypsy music takes everything… matter at all. Fortunately. palatable brand of pop, enjoying at least the festival fronting two commercially and everything except the blues. They atmosphere of 100,000 party-goers congregated under critically successful bands: Püdel- never play blues, they like harmony. KP: Do you give money to beggars? a darkening summer’s sky. With impressive foresight I si (something like “poodles”) and Blues is really, really black music MM: I do. had remembered to drink vodka rather than beer, there- Homo Twist. He has also released without harmony. It’s all about the KP: Always? fore sidestepping the usual quandary of sitting through several solo albums and collabo- movement, the rhythm and the tune, MM: Not always. I give money to the the concert in discomfort or stepping on a thousand rated on countless other projects. the tune! Not harmony – like John Lee ones who need it. But sometimes I toes in a struggle to the nearest bush. His rumbling baritone, irreverent Hooker - very simple but powerful. have no idea if someone is cheating After testing some new material on us, Jamiroquai un- lyrics and stylistic elasticity are me. leashed familiar hits such as “Space Cowboy.” “Travel- his trademark, although it is his KP: So, do you listen to a lot of KP: Were you ever homeless? ling Without Moving” and “Cosmic Girl”, the latter being anarchic, antagonistic, and bom- blues? MM: It was a sort of chosen home- a personal fave. “Like some baby Barbarella, with the bastic personality that has made MM: I have always listened to the lessness. As a hippie, you know. I was stars as her umbrella, she asked me if I’d like to magnet- him a local legend and national blues. What I’m playing with Homo crashing at my friend’s places long ise. Do I have to go star-trekking, ‘cos it’s you I should obsession. Krakow Post caught Twist is also blues – because it’s ago. Now it’s not my style. be checking, so she laser beamed me with her cosmic up with him before Homo Twist groovy, because it’s rhythmic and eyes.” Witty and nonsensical, these are pop sensibili- rocked Krakow’s Market Square on harmony isn’t important. There is KP: What kinds of people piss you ties at their very best. Night had fallen by now and the concert was illuminated by a fantastic digital light show June 5th: harmony, but I tune my guitar like off? playing around the stage’s circumference. old bluesmen did, to an open tuning. MM: Many kinds of them; people with KP: What was the last LP you I used an open tuning on the streets small imaginations and those who The best moments of the evening were saved for the bought? many years ago because it’s louder don’t understand the books that I’ve encore, when the hatted one launched into “Little L” MM: Amy Winehouse. and I could play a little melody and read. Sometimes I might say a lot of (a satirical lyrical examination of his relationship with KP: How do you rate it? still play through the chords, play rude words to someone and he might Denise Van Outen), before the distinctive bass line of MM: I think that it is a successful at- some rhythm and a lead. That’s how I feel offended but actually I’m just “Deeper Underground” brought any remaining slouchers tempt to return to Motown. I like this learned how to play. quoting Bulgakov and he doesn’t rea- to their feet for a spot of dancing. It was 10/10 for Jami- return to the sound of Motown al- lise it. If he did he would laugh with roquai, and “must try harder” for the sound engineers. though this sound of course can’t be KP: Do you think there is a point to me. I think it’s a matter of imagina- Of course the crowd weren’t going home without their repeated. Actually, I’m not sure if this being famous? tion. But I must admit, many times fireworks, and as exploding gems and golden rain studio still exists anymore. It’s hard MM: No. It’s enough to act in a stupid over I deserve to be pissed off by splashed from the heavens onto the shimmering surface to find recordings these days that film and you will be famous. It’s easy. those kinds of people. of the Wisła, there was a perfect opportunity to practise have that vintage Motown sound. Amy It’s enough to take a spectacular our Michael Flatley impressions to the accompanying also doesn’t have that Motown sound piss in public and you will be famous To read more, visit >> Riverdance soundtrack. A suitably pagan end to pro- but she comes close. But in general if straight away. Everybody has his or www.krakowpost.com ceedings. this is the direction that pop music is her own goal, and my goal is to be a www.krakowpost.com Krakow Post JULY 2008 19 Extra Post

Official Distributors MARKET EMPLOYMENT Krakow Hotel Reviewer For Sale: Books Incoming travel agency is searching for Companies & Bars & Klub Internetowy We have about 60 English books to sell. Business Centres Restaurants Planet Hotels, Hostels Hotel Reviewer for a temporary project Rynek Glowny 24 & Contact: [email protected] in Krakow. Your task will be creating British-Polish Any Time Sand- Guest Rooms Chamber of Com- wich Bar Lemonday about 120 short descriptions of Krakow merce ul. Estery 16 pl. Na Groblach Abella Guest For sale: 1 pillow, 1 duvet, 2 simple hotels. 22 Rooms beds, and dishes (kitchenware plates British Petroleum Aqua e Vino ul. Dluga 48 An ideal candidate should speak fluent Polska ul. Wislna 5/10 Le Scandale and glasses) from IKEA almost new. English, have experience in writing or ul. Jasnogorska 1 pl. Nowy 9 Affinity Flats Write for the details: marionl_@hotmail. Arka Noego ul. Karmelicka 7 in tourism industry and be ready to Buma Square ul. 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Contact us for Maryny” Mlynow 9 Rynek Glowny 9 1500 zl. Furnished or Unfurnished. more details: Zodiakus Hostel Please email me at: claus.verner@gmail. [email protected] ul. Augustianska 4 com

CkrakowityPOST lifeCracow-life.com

> FIRST STEP... Towards a Collection of Western Contemporary Art > CL 6

> by night > reviews > spotlight > posted Notes From the Drop In, Fork Out, First Step...A National Concerts, exhibitions & Underground Get Served Museum exhibition parties /CL 2 /CL 3, 5 /CL 6 /CL 7, 8, 9, 10 CL2 Krakow Post JULY 2008 www.krakowpost.com

byNightlife night & Dining

tival at Klub Pauza. Despite a lack bash at Qushi, with ‘vodka brace- of Hawaiian shirts, this fiesta of lets’ ensuring this coming of age Notes From the electronica injected some welcome went off with a slam. colour into the Krakow nightscape with a cool crowd (of largely media The prize for the best shindig in patrons) sipping caipirinhas until June however goes to Asian Night Underground the wee hours and getting down to at Prozak, with Japanese turntab- some Brazilian beats. lists, Hwa Young and Hito, humor- ously donning kimonos before grac- Unfortunately I literally missed the ing the decks (they are in fact both Conceived under the silvery light of a full moon party in Ko Pha Ngan, boat for the Totally Twisted party, from Berlin). I must admit to being raised by lotus-eating hippies in Ibiza and suckled on the milk of Eric after the statek “Nimfa” set sail a big fan of Hito’s, and she has a far more punctually that I had en- wonderful knack for dropping a Morillo’s mixing nipple, Krakow Post proudly presents their nightlife visioned. Apparently it was great. classic track at just the right time… correspondent… the smooth, and ever-so-slightly-slippery, Slinky. I did however make it to the after Who ever thought we’d hear Dooms party at Frantic, and it was good to Night by Azzido Da Bass at Prozak? see the Błędne Kolo faithful enjoy- With some old faces turning up to It comes as no surprise to me that gripe? The inability of Polish girls to ing themselves out of their home rock the dancefloor it was almost it was the Poles who cracked the keep an appointment. I for one (and territory for once. In between I man- as if the good old days were back… Enigma code. After all, the effect of I urge any other self-styled Casano- aged to make it to everyone’s favou- Except the beer no longer costs 5 courting Polish women makes an am- vas to join me) am going on strike if rite Vietnamese teenager’s birthday zloty. ateur cryptologist out of the best of any more of my dates are cancelled us. It was Craig David of all people, just one hour before they are due to who reminded me what I’m missing start. Here are a few of the lame ex- back home: “I met a girl on Monday, cuses to pop up on my Samsung in took her for a drink on Tuesday and recent weeks: we were making love by Wednesday - and on Thursday, Friday and Satur- “Sorry, I can’t meet you tonight be- day. We chilled on Sunday,” boasts cause: I’m ill… my mother’s ill… my the fading UK superstar in one of dog’s ill… I’m tired… my mother’s his more memorable bids for chart tired… my dog’s tired... I forgot glory. I have computer class tonight… I promised to go with my mother to Despite one of the most finely- the hairdressers… it’s my grand- chiselled beards in pop history, I’m mother’s nameday… it’s my other pretty sure that if our Craig hailed grandmother’s nameday… it’s my from Krakow, rather than South- grandmother’s sister’s dog’s name- ampton, his lyrics would have taken day…” And if it’s not one of those a distinctly different turn: “I met a classics then it’s some sob story girl on Monday, took her for a drink about how “my boyfriend found out a month on Tuesday (after her ex- about us and I can’t see you any- ams), she cancelled ‘cos there was more.” It seems no reason is too a Saint’s Day on Wednesday, so I fi- trivial for a Polish girl to break their nally caught up with her a week next arrangement with you. Thursday, but she couldn’t stay long as she was going to her village I suppose, apart from their lack of on Friday, and staying on Saturday. dating etiquette, Polish girls are gen- On Sunday she was feeling ill.” “Sie- erally a decent bunch and it would dem dni” might not have been such be churlish to complain about them a smash hit. too much. But be warned dziew- czyny, I will take my Slinky ass Of course the elusiveness of Pol- to warmer climes if I get the cold ish girls is part of their “mysteri- shoulder one more time with just ous charm,” and no doubt their oft- one hour to spare. 24 hours is only by night photo of the month employed Fabian tactics are merely polite, and will give me plenty of tests of the strength of our feelings. time to draft in your hot friend as a You can’t trust these handsome for- replacement... “Gentlemen prefer blondes - but gentlemen marry brunettes” eign boys, I’m sure their mothers told them. But whereas a little errat- Of course I would have to lay my Feel the MIx @ Rdza Club ic behaviour, some blowing hot and Slinky soubriquet to rest if I’d spent cold, is par for the pursuit, a line more time chasing spódniczka than has to be drawn. In short, it wasn’t raving it up at this month’s mash just postal workers and profes- ups, and thankfully June had plenty Supplied by mynight.pl the sors that were pissed off in Poland of highlights to savour - not least a top website for clubbing photos. this June, it was playboys too. Our tropical edition of the Unsound Fes- www.krakowpost.com Krakow Post JULY 2008 CL3 DROP IN GET SERVED

Nic Nowego is not short on candidates for the coveted KP bar person of the month award, and with Euro 2008 taking place in June we had the perfect excuse to examine their cre- dentials in more detail. Pipping her co-workers to the Post was Ania Sikora, whose winning smile meant that we spent as much time furiously scribbling down love poems on paper napkins as we did watching the games. She also mixes a mean mojito, as Duncan Rhodes found out when he sat Miss Sikora down for a tête-à-tête.

Q: What do you do when you’re not waiting tables? A: I’ve finished studying medicine. I’ll start my internship soon.

Q: What’s your dream job? A: Of course to be a doctor.

Q: What festivals are you going to this summer? A: Open’er. I’m looking forward to seeing Chemical Brothers, Massive Attack, Erykah Badu and Coco Rosie. Plus I was thinking of going to a reggae festival in Wrocław.

Galeria Przyrody Q: Describe your perfect July weekend: Ul. Studencka 15, www.galeriaprzyrody.pl A: I would like to go to the zoo to see the newborn kangaroo, go cycling aimlessly and drink a small beer. One doesn’t like to bandy travel writers’ clichés around willy-nilly, but if anywhere in Krakow deserves the over-used accolade “a hidden gem,” then it’s Galeria Przyrody. Residing unassum- Q: What drink do you recommend at Nic Nowego? A: My mojito! I mix the best one. The way it looks is also very important. ingly on ulica Studencka, this delightful herbaciarnia (tea house) may only be a minute off the main track, but you won’t find any tourists taking time out here; nor have many expats discov- Q: If you were a drink what would you be? ered the venue. This is something of a shame as the distinctive interior alone, which features a A: Sex on the beach… just kidding! Maybe wine, because I am getting better with age. cave-like ceiling, walls covered in brushwood and several aquarium tanks and glass cages (from which brightly-coloured fish and curious chameleons stare) places the Galeria Przyrody above Q: Where’s your favourite place to party in Krakow? most of its rivals around the Square. If a hot drink is the last thing on your mind this July, then A: Piekny Pies, Pauza, Kitsch. you’ll be pleased to know that a a range of smoothies and ice creams complement the menu of teas from India, China, Japan and Africa. Contrary to our last visit, the café now serves Q: What are you doing after work? alcohol, and bottled Erdinger and Zlatopramen beers are just two yeasty treats available for A: I’m washing my hair. thirsty tipplers. Duncan Rhodes DROP IN

Scandale Royal Pl. Szczepański 2, Tel: +48 012 430 6855

Opening last month in a no-expenses-spared flurry of champagne, gateaux and scantily-clad models (or so a gloating source revealed to me), it seems Scandal Royal did everything right, except remember to invite yours truly to the grand launch. I’m not the bitter type, so I decided to pop in and check out Le Scandale’s new gaff and see what surprises were in store. Quite a few as it turns out. Whereas the ground floor resembles a more decadent version of the original Kazimierz branch, there’s also a smart upstairs overlooking Plac Szczepański and a basement level where live bands play nightly from 10:30 pm. Intriguingly a large courtyard opens up out back, but it’s unclear as yet whether a beer garden will be cultivated here or not. Back inside and there are some nice touches to the décor, such as luminescent ceiling panels, a huge stacked chandelier and lampshades straight out of a Parisian brothel. My favourite features though were the dramatic and fantastical toilet doors, which look like they’d be better used to guard the Mines of Moria, rather than an ordinary public convenience. Overall Scandal Royal won’t revolutionise Krakow’s nightlife, but if you have a trophy girlfriend to show off then this is as good a place as any to be seen.

Duncan Rhodes Ania Sikora, July’s waitress of the month

www.restauracja-amadeus.pl CL4 Krakow Post JULY 2008 ADVERTISEMENTS www.krakowpost.com

Restaurant with unique temperament and Cracow atmosphere ! Famous restaurant on the “King’s Road” from Wawel Castle to Main Square. You can eat your dinner in one of the antique carriages… Traditional old polish cuisine using old recipes and charred beech wood grill. Dishes prepared over a beech wood grill using old polish and Italian recipes. (Restauracja z atmosferą średniowiecznego Krakowa, (To restauracja z włoskim temperamentem i krakowską atmosferą! na „Drodze Królewskiej” z Wawelu do Rynku Głównego. Można tu zjeść kolację w jednej z karet, wśród uskrzydlonej łodzi Zapraszamy w kulinarną „podróż” do staropolskich smaków. rybackiej i góralskich sań. Ogródek z fontanną na dziedzińcu.) Kuchnia polska, włoskie pasty…i tiramisu!) Courtyard garden and medieval atmosphere. “Cherubino” ul.św.Tomasza 15, Krakow, tel. 012/4294007, ul.Grodzka 35, Kraków, tel. 012/4213999, tel./fax. 012/4294147 tel./fax. 012/4302113 www.cherubino.pl www.podaniolami.pl

“…that honor goes to Cafe Camelot, which might just be my favorite cafe in the world (..go for apple pie)” David Streitfeld “The Washington Post Travel” Summer restaurant-boat located in the bend of the Vistula River at the foot of the Wawel Castle. Coffee house – gallery with the most romantic summer garden in Cracow. Sitting on its upper deck, you will recall long-forgotten charms of life The magical atmosphere of that place and original interiors dating back on the Vistula River. to the XIII century. (Galeria – kawiarnia z wyjątkowym ogródkiem w Zaułku Niewiernego Tomasza. (Letnia restauracja na statku na Wiśle u stóp Wawelu. Jest miejscem spotkań niezwykłych ludzi, koncertów, kabaretów i recitali. Siedząc na górnym pokładzie odnajdą Państwo dawno zapomniane uroki życia W galerii na piętrze wydarzenia artystyczne i wystawy fotograficzne. nad Wisłą.) W piątki kabaret „Loch Camelot”)

Galar “Pod Aniołami” Zakole Wisły, On Fridays Loch Camelot Cabaret. Bulwary Wiślana vis a vis Hotelu Sheraton, Cafe Camelot” ul. św.Tomasza 17, Kraków, tel. 0691 44 04 03 tel.012/4210123 www.krakowpost.com Krakow Post JULY 2008 CL5

FORK OUT

Bar Wegetariański “Vega” Ul. Krupnicza 22, + 48 012 430 0846, www.vegarestauracja.com.pl

If you’re looking for a cheap lunch outside the madness of the Old Town, you could do a lot worse than poking your nose into Vegetarian Bar “Vega” on Krupnicza Street. Their elegant Wesele dining hall has a decidedly relaxing air to it, as lonely students come to munch on cheap plates Rynek Główny, 10 +48 012 422 7460, www.weselerestauracja.pl of salad around huge tables, and stare into the middle distance. Although some of the salad choices look distinctly unappetising languishing in half empty bowls, Vega has a fantastic range of soups with the pumpkin and, more recently, the lentil numbers pleasantly tickling the taste It appears the management of Grodzka’s Miód Malina restaurant have realised they’re on to a buds. Refreshingly for Poland, neither had anything more sinister than the odd piece of bread winning formula, as witnessed by the opening of the group’s Market Square presence, Wesele. floating in them. Also on sale are vegetarian takes on goulash, lasagne, dumplings and pan- It’s not hard to understand – with a table often hard to come by during the week, they now cakes, although meat eaters might find them lacking a little oomph. A word of warning to the have a ready-made alternative to send those without reservations to. The menu bears many aurally sensitive amongst you - the music selection can be truly atrocious. A pan pipe moods similarities, albeit differently worded and minus the stone oven. However, if they’ve sought to version of “Take My Breath Away” had me sprinting for a seat outside. Find a second branch on replicate the atmosphere of Miód Malina, I fear they may have failed. The service was generally ulica Św. Gertrudy. professional which is to be expected, but it’s the décor that may have let them down. Seeking Duncan Rhodes to evoke the spirit of Polish tradition, Wesele has gone for the rustic approach. This is great for the cellar restaurants and bars but, given the freshly renovated feel of the venue, it just doesn’t fit here. It’s almost as if staropolska has met the future, the two have taken an instant dislike to each other and an uncomfortable standoff has arisen. That being said, the place has only just opened and it may just be a case of settling in.

Unlike many other Krakow restaurants that hedge their bets with Polish alongside a safer international cuisine (Polish – Italian anyone?), Wesele has gone “all in” on Polish… with great effect. The broad menu, while including standard fare such as pierogi and the like, also boasts real treats in the form of deer steak and fillet of goose. Indeed, it was the latter that on this occasion caught my eye. In preparation, and to moisten up the taste buds, this was preceded by the “golden” broth with lamb dumplings. With lamb and goose either missing or overpriced in many Krakow restaurants, the chance to sample both on the same night had to be seized. I wasn’t disappointed. The broth arrived piping hot, emitting a saliva-inducing steam that served only to heighten my anticipation of what was to come. With the taste buds teased, the eyes Del Papa were not disappointed – bright green sprigs of fresh dill gave way to the vibrant orange of carrot Ul. Św. Tomasza 6, +48 012 421 8343, www.delpapa.pl chunks that floated happily alongside the lamb dumplings. The soup was delicious, although, given its warming qualities, might best be left for the minus-something days of January and Del Papa has garnered plenty of attention over the seemingly short time it has been open in February, rather than a stuffy, thirty-degree day late in June. My dining companion was simi- Krakow, having even made it into the 2008 Michelin restaurant guide. I was determined to give larly impressed with the sheep’s cheese with cranberry jelly. It was crunchy where it should this Italian eatery a try before the inevitable tourist takeover (see Miód Malina). Del Papa’s have been crunchy and gooey in all the right places. patio, where I spent my recent lunch hour, is spotless and elegant while retaining that usual Italian-inspired look with dusty wine bottles and twisting vines. A well-written menu is already The mains arrived shortly after. Those familiar with Miód Malina will know the drill – the mains half the battle won, and Del Papa’s rose to the challenge with plenty of scrumptious-sounding come as described with no side dish. It’s an increasingly common method for higher-end restau- pastas and seasonal dishes. Complimentary munchies came in the form of fresh bread sticks rants to fill out the tab. The sides are as they should be; potatoes boiled or fried, vegetables, (still warm!) sprinkled with sesame seeds and sea salt - the perfect match to my Peroni. While cabbage, Silesian dumplings; they’re all here and provide a great opportunity to share, sample the portion of the spaghetti carbonara I ordered was a tad meagre, the execution was flawless. or mop up the sauce your main course has left behind. The goose was excellent. If there was The pasta was homemade with a light creamy sauce, slices of cured ham, and shavings of Par- a complaint it was that it was served sliced and so, by the time the meat reached the table, mesan - a delicate approach to a dish that is usually way too heavy. Lunch for two came down much of the heat had been lost. Flavour-wise though, there were no complaints – the meat was to 50 zloty on the dot. Great value, delicious food, efficient service and classy decor are exactly moist and fell away from the skin and the pears and cranberry jelly served as a perfect accom- what this foodie was looking for. Hurrah! paniment to slice through the rich flavour of the goose. Across the table, a more conservative Dana Dramowicz approach had been employed – chicken fillet with nuts and mushrooms. As with the goose, the chicken was perfectly cooked and moist, the mushrooms were flavoursome and the nuts (wal- nuts if I’m not mistaken) cooked inside the meat worked well with the mushroom and provided a particularly pleasant crunchiness.

We didn’t opt for desserts on this occasion, choosing not to over-indulge and instead combatted the heat-induced drowsiness with a coffee.

Two courses with sides, a couple of Pilsners and a coffee came in to the tune of 140 złoty. However, that was with the goose (45) and, selecting differently according to taste, the same amount of food could be had for around 100-110 złoty. On this particular Monday night, there were only a handful of tables not already reserved. Thanks to the Market Square effect, We- sele’s success is all but guaranteed over the summer months so reservations are advisable. I’ll certainly be back when the weather gets cold for that golden broth. Kris Grzegorczyk CL6 Krakow Post JULY 2008 www.krakowpost.com

spotlightFirst Step...

Image courtesy of the National Museum in Cracow

Museum by David LaChapelle (2007)

he National Museum has put on some thanks to Rafael Jablonka, one of the most the last few decades? And is Mike Kelley’s The full title of the show is “First Step sensational shows over the last two dynamic Polish collectors at large on the Bottle simply a glorified piece of nightclub Towards a Collection of Contemporary Art.” years, but if there’s a string that’s international scene. The owner of the epony- scenery? And what about Nobuyoshi Araki’s And the good news is that all signs are point- been missing from the bow, it’s mous Jablonka Galerie in Cologne, he’s lent photographic chronicle? Has he crossed a ing towards a more permanent set-up with Tinternational contemporary art. Until now, dozens of pieces to the show. The collection line in exploiting his own misfortune, or is Rafael Jablonka. The collector has already we should add. This summer, the National is focuses on movers and shakers of the last 25 his series a touching evocation of love and provided an extended loan for the show, and showcasing a vivid stash of modern marvels. years, beginning with Andy Warhol and run- loss? Plenty of questions are raised from the art lovers will be able to enjoy the exhibition Works by some of the most talked about ning through stars such as David LaChapelle, exhibits at “First Step”, a healthy sign in until the autumn of 2009. Fingers crossed, names in today’s art world can be enjoyed, Miquel Barcelo, Eric Fischl and Philip Taafe. any show. Thankfully, wit is not absent, least this won’t be just a flash in the pan for the meaning that art aficionados from across America and Europe are best represented, of all in the imagery of David LaChapelle, National Museum’s contemporary campaign. Poland have been making the pilgrimage to but controversial Japanese photographer whose lurid Deluge offers a 21st century Krakow. Nobuyoshi Araki also gets a look-in. take on Michelangelo’s The Last Judgement. The National Museum in Cracow Naked philosophers, dogs surfing on Burger Main Building, Aleja 3 Maja 1, Krakow The National’s stroke of good fortune comes Is Andy Warhol the most overrated artist of King signs - it’s all there.

David LaChapelle, whose Museum and Deluge are pictured, was born in 1963 in Connecticut. His big break came before leaving high school, when Andy Warhol hired him to shoot for Interview maga- zine, the so-called “Crystal Ball of Pop.” However, it wasn’t until the 1990s that LaChapelle began to attract international acclaim for his work. Besides holding numerous photographic exhibitions, the artist has proved much in demand as a director of music videos. He directed The Dandy Warhols in 1997, and since then he has shot videos for a host of stars, includ- Image courtesy of the National Museum in Cracow ing Moby, Elton John, The Vines, Macy Gray, Gwen Stefani and Amy Winehouse. Deluge by David LaChapelle (2007) www.krakowpost.com Krakow Post JULY 2008 CL7

postedThe Month in Events provided by Cracow-life.com

SPECIAL EVENTS hottest districts, and hip young professionals turn, with performances pencilled in from a DREAMERS AND WITNESSES have been settling here in droves in recent panoply of piping maestros. Catch a concert “Dreamers and Witnesses” draws back the KOSSAK SUMMER OF ARTS years. On Sunday July 6th, there’s a chance every Thursday, beginning with Viennese curtain on some of the top names in 20th This one’s an out of town event, but well to sample some of the artisan delights of ace Wolfgang Reisinger on the 3rd at century Polish photography. The works of worth a try if you’re keen to hit the great the district, as a fantastic fair of “curious St. Mary’s Basilica (starts 7:30 pm). He’ll be over a hundred lens legends are on show, outdoors (and skip the crowds of Zakopane). objects” is set to take place. Echoing pre- playing a mixture of classics by Bach, Muf- demonstrating the evolution of the art form The Kossak family had a knack of producing war traditions, over twenty wooden stalls fat and others. Next up is Roman Ennio in Poland over the last century. The National dazzlingly talented artists, above all painters will be offering a cornucopia of handcrafted Cominetti, who’ll be playing at the Church Museum has pulled out all the stops to obtain and writers. Despite bouts of exile, the cur- curios, from jewellery to porcelain dolls. And on the Rock down in Kazimierz (ul. Skalecz- outstanding works for this show, drawing on rent generation is keen to keep the tradi- of course, everything that you see has been na). He’s starting slightly earlier at 4:30 pm. pieces from both public and private collection alive, and the Kossaks will be hosting a “made in Podgorze.” The fair gets underway On Thursday the 17th, we’ve got Miroslaw tions. Hosted by the Czartoryski Museum. “Summer of Arts” with plenty of attractions at 10 am on Rynek Podgorski, and will run Semeniuk-Podraza at the Carmelite when - Until 20th July for all the family. The first wave of the until 8 pm. If the weather’s good, why not Church at ul. Karmelicka 19. The Polish-born where - Czartoryski Museum Arsenal, festival culminates on Saturday July 5th, wander on to Krak’s mound, one of the city’s Finn will be playing Pachelbel and others ul. Pijarska 8 with students from Cracow’s Academy of Arts top treasures. from 8 pm. He’s followed by Henryk Gwardak finishing off an epic open-air panorama in when - 6th July at the same venue (8 pm, 24th July). Round- the Kossak style. Children will also be having where - Rynek Podgorski ing off the month we’ve got Robert Brodacki a bash with the brush on their own master- at St. Mary’s Basilica (7:30 pm). Tickets to all piece, and at 5 pm there’ll be a concert by FALKO SHOW ON THE MARKET SQUARE concerts 15-25 zloty. folk group Celtic Triangle. Guests keen to Groteska Theatre would like to present a when - Throughout July special act that will be taking place on the where - Various Market Square throughout the entire summer: the Falko Show. The show is put on by 13TH SUMMER JAZZ FESTIVAL one of the theatre’s many talented actors, Jig on down to this much-loved jazz jam- Krzysztof Falkowski, but it couldn’t be boree, which kicks off on July 6th with pulled off without Falkowski’s little “friend”: the time-honoured “New Orleans Parade” an Elvis-impersonating, hard-rocking wooden through the Old Town. Jazz has a rich tradi- puppet. The Falko Show is theatre, cabaret, tion in Poland, and during the late 50s and and rock concert rolled into one, featur- early 60s the music achieved cult status, ing icons of rock and pop culture. On stage, filtering into Polish cinema too. Jazz was Falko impersonates music stars known celebrated as a form of rebellion against the all over the world, such as Tina, Elvis, stringent communist system, and many Polish stay the night and enjoy the hiking in the Jackson, Elton, and others, while playing, academics credit the buccaneering jazz sta- surrounding Beskid hills can stay at the Kos- dancing, and singing. It’s a show not to be tions of the US with as crucial a role as Radio sak’s own hostel Koss, within the grounds of missed, and best of all, it’ll be performed Free Europe in rocking - in both senses of the the manor. The panoramas will be on display for free all summer! word - Stalin’s Polish boat. Daily concerts throughout July. when - Throughout July can be enjoyed throughout July, culminating Painting by Leopold Gottlieb when – 5th July where - Market Square in the traditional end-of-festival gig in the (Jewish Artists in Krakow) where - Kossak Manor, Gorki Wielkie courtyard of the Pod Baranami palace, bang FESTIVALS on the Main Market Square. Check www. MOSCOW FASHION DURING THE THE MADE IN PODGORZE FAIR cracjazz.pl for a full programme. BELLE EPOQUE Podgorze is fast becoming one of Krakow’s 18TH INTERNATIONAL FESTIVAL OF when - 6th July until August 3rd It’s Dr. Zhivago time at the Hipolit House, JEWISH CULTURE where - Various where sumptuous fin-de-siecle fashion tops Although the festival kicked off on June the bill. As memoirists have noted, these 28th, the lion’s share is reserved for early July. Besides a cracking array of Klezmer EXHIBITIONS concerts (look out for home-grown stars Kroke at Alchemia), the festival will see ILLUSTRATING THE BIBLE Jewish angles on just about everything under See box on page > CL8 the sun, from cooking to calligraphy - there’s when - Until 6th July even a dash of Hasidic dancing. Night owls where - Ethnographic Museum, shouldn’t miss the end of festival shindig on ul. Krakowska 46 Szeroka Street (Saturday July 5th), when the whole strip will come alive with a medley of concerts. As always, the Kazimierz district - historic heartland of Krakow’s Jewish com- MA in TransAtlantic Relations munity - plays host to virtually all events. when - Until 6th July For foreigners at Jagiellonian University where - Various Deadline for applications: August 15th, 2008 Visit our web page: www.transatlantic.uj.edu.pl Our office: Rynek Glowny 34, 2nd Floor, Room 7A 28TH INTERNATIONAL SUMMER FESTIVAL OF ORGAN MUSIC email: [email protected] Phone: +48 (12) 4296157 A stalwart of the summer calendar, the Podgorze Fair Poster Fax: +48 (12) 4220364 International Organ Festival is about to re- CL8 Krakow Post JULY 2008 www.krakowpost.com clothes were a lot more comfortable to look dedication to his craft won him numerous at than to wear - ladies had to go through laurels in pre-war Poland. He eventually hell to get the famed hourglass effect. That became Professor of Photography at the Uni- said, don’t miss this chance to drop in to versity of Vilnius, a city which he chronicled the glorious time warp that is the Hipolit with devotion over many years. This major House. The show comes under the wings of retrospective is divided into two parts. The the “Moscow Days Festival,” and it’s been first reveals his insatiable ramblings across organised by Tamara Trocka, guest curator Poland up until 1944 (closes 6th July). The from the Russian capital. second (opens 11th July) chronicles the dev- when - Throughout July astation of Warsaw and Bulhak’s attempts to where - Hipolit House, Plac Mariacki 3 find a place in the new, communist Poland. when - Throughout July where - Museum of the History of Photography, ul. Jozefitow 16

JEWISH ARTISTS IN KRAKOW 1873- 1939 Hosted by the Old Synagogue Museum in Ka- zimierz, this show chimes in with the much- vaunted Festival of Jewish Culture. David Peleg, Israel’s ambassador to Poland, is M.Duczynski at Pauza Gallery honorary patron and visitors can savour ally acclaimed guru Tadeusz Kantor, visitors gion of southern Poland that his family hailed some 150 pieces by Polish Jewish painters, can savour works by Sobocki, Puget and from. A masterpiece resulted. sculptors and graphic artists. The setting - Taranczewski. when - Throughout July Krakow’s oldest surviving synagogue - is itself when - Throughout July where - Galicia Jewish Museum, ul. Dajwor 18 enough to merit the entrance fee. where - Palac Krzysztofory, Rynek Glowny 35 when - Throughout July EXHIBITIONS AT PAUZA where - Old Synagogue Museum, FIRST STEP... Throughout the summer, both Pauza Club ul. Szeroka 24 “First Step” is a major coup for the National and Pauza Gallery will be showcasing new Museum, and all signs point towards a more exhibitions opening on the 5th of July. Pauza CONTEMPORARY BELGIAN ART permanent arrangement with the owner of club, known for its stunning photography Oft-overlooked, the ICC is a contender for this loaned collection. The exhibition unveils exhibitions, once again lives up to its high the crown of top exhibition space in town. a 24-carat stash of modern art owned by one standards with a presentation of Maciej Painting by Henryk Stazewski Until September the centre will be host- of the most dynamic Polish collectors on the Duczynski’s photography, titled “The Col- ing a three-pronged promotion of Belgian international scene, Rafael Jablonka. Ma- ours of Europe.” A meeting with the photog- HENRYK STAZEWSKI (1894-1988) art - showcasing works by Guy Vanden- jor works by artists such as Andy Warhol, rapher will take place there on the 12th at 7 If abstract art is your bag, look no further. branden, Luc Ledene and Janke Mike Kelley, Philip Taafe and Miquel pm. Upstairs, Pauza Gallery presents Jacek The National Museum is shining a spotlight - artists who are still at large today. The Barcelo have drawn art lovers from across Chlanda’s series of paintings titled “Picture on one of the towering figures in Polish show, entitled “Between Constructivism Poland. For more information, see Spotlight Zone,” showing until the end of the month. modern art, Henryk Stazewski, pioneer and and Figuration,” is a superb introduction to on CL 6 when - From 5th July champion of Abstractionism. Stazewski was the Belgian masters. Find the gallery on the when - Throughout July where - Pauza Gallery, ul. Florianska 18/5 in the thick of it right from the word go, southern flank of the Market Square. where - National Museum, Al. 3 Maja 1 organising Malevich’s first Polish exhibition when - Throughout July EXHIBITIONS AT BUNKIER SZTUKI in 1927, and lending his support to dozens of where - International Cultural Centre, TRACES OF MEMORY Drop into the “Bunker of Art” for some cut- other artists who were prepared to take the Rynek Glowny 25 British-born photographer Chris Schwarz, ting edge contemporary art. Their outdoor plunge. Stazewski’s own canvases endure as founder of the Galicia Museum, was an inde- cafe makes for a further summertime bonus. classic cuts from the interwar avant garde. CRACOVIAN ART AFTER 1945 fatigable champion of Polish Jewish culture. when - Throughout Summer when - Throughout July The Historical Museum, housed in a belter A special tribute at the magical old Remuh where - Bunkier Sztuki, Plac Szczepanski 3a where - National Museum, Al. 3 Maja 1 of a palace on the Market Square, is in the cemetery will round off this year’s Jewish throes of a major refit. There’s still plenty to Festival, but the best way to connect with OPERA, THEATRE see though. Besides the permanent collec- the artist’s legacy is to nip round the corner & DANCE tion, visitors can check out an exhibition to the Galicia Museum, where his exhibition that focuses on the post-war era, with paint- “Traces of Memory” is on permanent display. 12TH OPERA KRAKOWSKA FESTIVAL ings by some of the top names in Cracovian Schwarz spent over a decade rooting around The Opera Krakowska Festival twirls on for (and Polish) modern art. Besides internation- far-flung corners of Galicia, the historic re- another fortnight, stopping at some glorious

ILLUSTRATING THE BIBLE

he Ethnographic Museum has a dash of Alice in Wonderland about it. Albeit a very Polish wonderland. Inside, Tmysterious rooms line the corridors, transporting you to highland cottages painted in all the colours of the rainbow. Speaking of rainbows, the museum’s new show, “Illustrating the Bible,” has plenty of iridescent images

to enjoy. The exhibition shows the Assault

fruits of a countrywide competition. Catch it quick before it closes on July Falko Show 6th.

JAN BULHAK (1876-1950) when > Until 6th July Art Dubbed the “Father of Polish Photography,” where > Ethnographic Museum, Jan Bulhak was a gentleman artist whose ul. Krakowska 46 Painting by Adam Fryc www.krakowpost.com Krakow Post JULY 2008 CL9 venues in Krakow and its environs. First up typically kick off at 6 pm. Can the “strange tion. That said, it’s not often that we get a there will be readings of fairy tales and all is a performance of Donizetti’s Lucia di foreigners” match the eccentric heights of chance to see their works on the big screen kinds of interactive surprises... Lammermoor at the fantastic Polish Aviation Cracow’s homegrown stars....? We’ll soon nowadays. But the charismatic Kino Pod when - Every Wednesday throughout July Museum (Thursday 3rd July, 7 pm, 39 Jan see! Baranami - located in a princely palace on where - Kino Kijow, al. Krasinskiego 34 Pawel Avenue). Two more treats are in store when - 10th until 13th July the main square - has come to the rescue. at the Aviation Museum, Gounod’s Faust on where - Various Every other Tuesday this July and August Saturday the 5th (7 pm), and Verdi’s La Tra- they’ll be screening cuts by famous and viata on the 6th (7 pm). The fest then moves FILM lesser known figures in Polish cinema. Golden on to Niepolomice Castle outside Krakow, oldies will be shown alongside cutting edge where on the 10th and 11th there will be KINOBRANIE: SUMMER PICKS AT POD new pictures. All movies will be with English performances of Puccini’s Tosca. BARANAMI subtitles. Drop by for more details. when - Until 11th July Krakow’s cult venues have had a bumpy ride when - July: Every Fortnight, Tuesdays where – Various in recent years, not least arthouse cinemas. where - Kino Pod Baranami, Rynek Glowny 27 Several have disappeared off the map since JARMARK CUDOW - FAIR OF WONDERS the arrival of the multiplexes - thank God A SUMMER KINDERGARTEN OF CINEMA Taking its cue from the colourful medieval that Kino Pod Baranami is still holding the Kino Kijow has a kiddies’ banquet in store fairs of Europe’s great cities, the “Fair of fort. Over the summer they’ve got a smash- for the summer. So if you’ve got a soft spot Wonders” is a dazzling slice of open-air ing selection of quirky cinematic cuts. Each for animated films and fabulous tales, or theatre. Performed in the courtyard of the week there’ll be a new theme, starting on you simply want to entertain your own little Ethnographic Museum, this brand new work the 4th of July with Spanish legend Isabel monsters, why not give this one a try. Every comes from one of Poland’s most innova- Coixet and other directors of her ilk. The Wednesday between 9 am and 3 pm there tive troupes. Blending music and magic, the following week you can check out the Czechs will screenings of classic children’s films, in- production is a heady brew that’s sure to with Menzel, Sverak, Zelenka and more. cluding golden oldies from Poland, Romania, intrigue theatre aficionados. Performances Next up, beginning July 18th, there’s a the former Czechoslovakia and the equally start at 8 pm on the 5th and 6th of July. week of blues, flamenco and other musically extinct USSR. Besides the film screenings, when - 5th & 6th July themed cuts. Rounding off the month there’s Landscape by Zygmunta Menkes where - Ethnographic Museum, ul. Krakowska 46 Lynch’s Wild At Heart and other passion- (Jewish Artists in Krakow) packed cult classics. The film fest continues 21ST INTERNATIONAL FESTIVAL OF throughout August, and all of the 100 films in STREET THEATRE this programme are for a fantastic five zloty. CINEMATIC JOURNEYS FOR SUMMER Street theatre has been a colourful facet in when - Throughout July Kino Mikro is another cult venue, proving that Cracovian life since time immemorial, and where - Kino Pod Baranami, Rynek Glowny 27 sometimes, the best things do come in small this July, a riot of international troupes will packages. That said, the diminutive cinema has be descending on the city. Performances will POLISH FILMS IN ENGLISH prepared a royal package for the summer sea- be divided between the Main Market Square Poles pride themselves on their canon son. Throughout July and August film lovers can (Rynek Glowny), Maly Rynek, Plac Nowy and of great directors. Names like Polanski, catch all kinds of cinematic capers. Classic cuts Plac Jana Nowaka Jezioranskiego. The action Wajda and Kieslowski need little introduc- Kindergarten of Cinema from directors such as Ridley Scott, Jim adebostan k

OPERA, THEATRE & DANCE CL10 Krakow Post JULY 2008 www.krakowpost.com

Jarmusch, Ken Loach and Milos Fore- “from opera to musicals” by two top local man and many more are all on the bill. Enjoy. troubadours, with piano accompaniment. when - Throughout July Finally, Di Galitzyaner Klezmorim will where - Kino Mikro, ul. Lea 5 be whipping things into a Klezmer frenzy on Sunday the 27th. All concerts kick off at 4 LIVE MUSIC pm, and they are absolutely free - how often does that happen these days....? Take a bus OPEN MIC NIGHT AT SZAFE northbound to enjoy the lovely landscaped The Open Mic Night is a monthly event at manorial park. which performers can get on stage and share when - Every Sunday their music. All musicians of all levels and where - Dworek Bialopradnicki, ul. Papiernicza 1 attitudes are welcome. Cafe Szafe (located one block from Massolit Books) provides a MIDNIGHT REVERIE TRIO cozy stage, full PA system, and good beer, Happening right in the midst of the Jew- &INE4ASTE3INCE every first Sunday of the month! A good time ish festival, this concert will feature the is guaranteed, whether you come to play or Midnight Reverie Trio, followed by a set of just to listen. From 7 to 10 pm. Klezmer and Yiddish folk music by two musi- when - 6th July cians visiting from the U.S.A. - David Symons where - Cafe Szafe, ul. Felicjanek 10 of Inner Fire District and The Black Sea Quartet (Vermont, USA), and Shaun CHOPIN CONCERTS IN THE BON- Williams, accordionist and tsimbl-player EROWSKI PALACE from the band Orpheum Bell. The concert The beautiful Bonerowski Palace on the will be followed by an open Klezmer jam led Market Square is the setting of a series of by David and Shaun. concerts dedicated to the Polish master com- when - 3rd July poser, Frederick Chopin. The concerts will where - Ptasiek Cafe, ul. Dajwor 3 be performed by four Polish pianists, each playing on alternating nights: Witold Wiczek, CLUB MUSIC Pawel Kubica, Maria Baka-Wilczek, and Do- brochna Krowka. Concerts will be performed MIDWEEK PARTIES IN JULY on the 2, 4, 5, 6, 8, 9, 11, 12, 13, 15, 16, 18, As summer gets into full swing Krakow waves 19, 20, 21, 23, 25, 26, 27, 29, and 30 of July, goodbye to a lot of its youngest and funkiest all beginning at 7 pm and lasting over an crowd - a large proportion of the city’s 250,000 hour. Tickets for each concert are available students will be doing everything from helping at the door before the concert. gran with the gardening in their home town, to when - Throughout July working as hostesses in Tokyo’s best clubs. As where - Bonerowski Palace, ul. Sw. Jana 1 local venues fight for the scraps it’s all the more important to know Where2b (www.where2b. KLEZMER CONCERTS: IRA & KLEZ- org)... Here’s a hint: check out Prozak on MERS Mondays, Ministerstwo on Tuesdays, Irena Urbanska, the grande dame of Polish Frantic on Wednesdays and Cien on Thurs- Klezmer, has just released her eighth album, days and you can’t go wrong. Jewish Wedding, and fans of classic Klezmer when - Throughout July can catch her several times a week live at where - Various Clubs Ariel, down in Kazimierz. Spielberg was so captivated by the clarinetist in this band - PARTY: GO DEEPER Leszek Lic - that he gave him a cameo role Local hero Blezz will be celebrating his birthday in Schindler’s List. Drop into Ariel to reserve this July at Club Frantic, with a little help from your ticket. his friends - Leon from Warsaw and Jolly Roger when - Throughout July from Krakow. If you’re doing the Krakow shuffle where - Ariel, ul. Szeroka 18 that weekend be sure to drop by. when - 12th July SUMMER CHAMBER CONCERTS where - Frantic, ul. Szewska 5 As always, the charming Bialopradnicki Man- or will be hosting a superb cycle of concerts PARTY: K-SAX this summer. Expect everything from Klez- Prepare for a night of hot sax, with DJ Fro- mer to Flamenco, with a bit of jazz thrown zze supported live by the incredibly talented in for good measure. Starting on July 6th instrumentalist Krupishon. Prozak is one of you can catch Aviaccord with some accor- Krakow’s most famous clubs, and this should be dion action. Then it’s the Bialopradnicki one of the best parties in July. Quartet with some classical cuts on the when - 26th July 13th. On Sunday the 20th there will be songs where - Prozak, pl. Dominikanski 6

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Summer Chamber Concerts - Aviaccord CL11 Krakow Post JULY 2008 www.krakowpost.com

lastStars & Puzzles page

ASTRO SELTZER SUDUKO

To play: Complete the grid so that every row, column and every 3 x 3 box contains the CANCER (Jun 21 – Jul 22) Exhaustion sets in as you add up the number of times digits 1 to 9. There is no guessing or maths you’ve had to resort to tunnel vision “take no prisoners” tactics in order to involved, just use logic to solve. simply survive. A tough nut at even the best of times, you worry that you’re fated to live life from battle to battle, a perennial urban warrior. Feeling as old as one of those dried-up remains from the Nowa Huta archaeological dig, you crave a holiday - from yourself. Take it!

LEO (Jul 23 - Aug 22) SAGITTARIUS (Nov 22 - Dec 20) ARIES (Mar 20 - Apr 19) Basking in the afterglow of When a door opens - and Torn between pursuing some yet another brilliant coup, it will - walk through it and brilliant new opportunities you could be forgetting one don’t look back. A wildly and the demands of the of your own cardinal rules: positive financial oppor- status quo, you’re in danger keep your friends close and tunity is failure-free: all you have to do of succumbing to that nasty your enemies even closer. is say “yes”. Don’t listen to friends who thing called guilt. Let it go. Your fear of Jealous types are chomping at the bit, likely suffer from fear of success. You’re behaving inconsistently, erratically or self- ravenous for a piece of the pie that you experiencing a golden period of infinite ishly stems from early parental disapprov- appear to be hoarding. You’re a generous possibilities. Be thankful and enjoy! al that is astoundingly at odds with your sort and will likely toss them a crust or curious, innovative spirit. Pop psychology two anyway. CAPRICORN (Dec 21 - Jan 19) aside, perhaps an exercise in secrecy (do- Swinging between your ing what you want without telling anyone) VIRGO (Aug 23 - Sep 22) devil-may-care and “the sky is in order. As reliable as the St. Mary’s is falling” orientations, you bugler, you’re the most faith- demand that your nearest and TAURUS (Apr 20 - May 20) ful, considerate character on dearest accept both parts of you without You have the goods on some- the planet. Although you love question. Your moody modus operandi is one: that bit of insider info the seamless efficiency of about to take on a calmer, more balanced that puts some extra steel your life, those closest to you tone as you pursue a new friendship (or in your punch. Sounds a tad may be growing weary of it. You’re about relationship, if you’re shopping for one) nasty, doesn’t it? While elimi- to be shaken up - in a totally positive way that enables you to blend your darker and nating – once and for all - the - on the home front. A wickedly fun twist lighter sides. competition, you could be treading some to the status quo promises to add some murky waters, ethically speaking. That dazzle to your life. AQUARIUS (Jan 20 - Feb 18) shouldn’t be a problem: you’re capable Attracting bouncier, more vi- of justifying anything to anyone, starting LIBRA (Sep 23 - Oct 22) brant people, you peer at the with yourself. You’re being watched. And world through less jaundiced that’s a good thing! The eyes. Others of your species GEMINI (May 21 - Jun 20) powers-that-be have big are beginning to look more A friend’s endless, dreary plans for you, ones that palatable, and you’re seriously considering litany of relationship woes exceed your wildest expec- taking a sabbatical from your own brain has started to get you tations. Keep doing whatever it is you do, and spending time in the world of the down and you wonder why. refuse to fall victim to self-consciousness living. Let other people’s joie-de-vivre fat- The fact is, humans mirror and let your famous dimples work for you. ten you up for some incredibly hard, and one another. Are you romantically satis- Destiny has a few interesting develop- ultimately rewarding, work that is lurking fied or stuck? Do you wake in the night, ments in store for you. Keep your mouth around the corner. Your success quotient enveloped in a cold sweat wishing that shut and your mind open. remains sky-high. the person lying beside you would magi- cally disappear? These and other questions SCORPIO (Oct 23 - Nov 21) PISCES (Feb 19 - Mar 19) remain to be answered. Finding meaning in a ball Like legendary fellow Pis- of dust or a snowflake is a cean Count Jan Nepomucen Krakow Post’s astrology column is for entertain- wonderful thing. The problem Potocki (the first man to – ment purposes only, and the Post is not respon- is that you tend to go over- among other things - fly over sible for any consequences incurred as a result of this column. Written by Kerwin McLeister, board with your “everything Warsaw in a hot air balloon), you do eve- [email protected] is connected” philosophy. A recent gift has rything with excessive panache and style. sent you into analysis overdrive. Question- You’re about to jump into one of the most ing why anyone would give you anything creative periods possible and it’s anyone’s SUDOKO SOLUTIONS betrays a lack of confidence that ought to guess what you’ll get up to. By the way, be put out with the evening rubbish. Why don’t beat yourself up about letting go of the hell shouldn’t you be appreciated, someone who’s holding you back. indulged, even spoiled?

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