In This Issue

PRESIDENT'S LETTER ...... xx

GREENLAW PHOTO COLLECTION ...... xx

HOW PIPE CREEK RECEIVED ITS NAME by Ranger Naturalist Hugh H. Waesche ...... xx

BIG EVENTS REMEMBERED by Gale Burak...... xx

THE OLD GEEZER HIKE by John S. Azar...... xx

A 75TH BIRTHDAY CELEBRATION by Lee Albertson...... xx

PADRE GARCES’ “PUERTO DE BUCARELI” by Jim Knipmeyer...... xx

GRAND CANYON EVENTS...... xx

1 President's Letter

Xxxx

Keith Green

EDITOR: Diane Cassidy

The Historical Society was established in July 1984 as a non-profit corporation to develop and promote appreciation, understanding and education of the earlier history of the inhabitants and important events of the Grand Canyon and surrounding area.

The Ol' Pioneer is published quarterly by the GRAND CANYON HISTORICAL SOCIETY who also publishes THE BULLETIN, a monthly newspaper. Both publications are a benefit of membership. Member- ship in the Society is open to any person interested in the historical, educational, and charitable purposes of the Society. Membership is on an annual basis using the standard calendar; and dues of $20 are payable on the 1st of January each year.

The Ol' Pioneer magazine is copyrighted by the Grand Canyon Historical Society, Inc. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or used in any form without permission of the publisher.

Submit photos, stories, and comments to the editor of The Ol' Pioneer at: [email protected] or PO Box 10067, Prescott AZ 86304.

GCHS Officers/Board of Directors Keith Green, President; Mike Coltrin, Vice President and Outings Coordinator Linda Anderson, Treasurer Lee Albertson, Secretary Todd Berger, Chairperson of Pioneer Award Mike Anderson Gale Burak Jim Ohlman

Web site: www.GrandCanyonHistory.org

2 GRAND CANYON HISTORICAL SOCIETY – THE OL' PIONEER, JAN/FEB/MAR 2005

Greenlaw Photo Collection New to the Grand Canyon Historical Society's web page (GrandCanyonHistory.org) are pages to the Greenlaw Photo Collection contributed by Don Gray, the grandson of Charles A. Greenlaw Jr. and Clara Greenlaw (both now deceased). The photos from family albums are provided under the condition that they are not to be used for profit under any circumstances. They are meant to be shared, viewed and enjoyed by all who wish to do so. See the photos at http://www.GrandCanyonHistory.org/Greenlaw.html

All of the photos (with the that Charles Greenlaw Sr. and his with his family. His daughter exception of those in the folders brother E. F. Greenlaw were running Dorothy returned to the United States "Greenlaw Lumber Mill") were the operation at that time under in 1938 to attend Flagstaff State inherited by Don and were the former contract with D. M. Riordan. The mill Teachers College (later Northern property of Charles A. Greenlaw Jr. was quickly rebuilt and upgraded. Arizona University) after finishing and his wife Clara Greenlaw. Don The Greenlaw brothers continued her high school in Brazil. believes (but cannot be certain) all the working in the lumber mill and later photos were taken over the years started their own mill in what was from 1913 to 1940s as indicated by then known as Cliffs, Arizona. notations (made by Clara Greenlaw) Charles Sr. married Ella Lamport on and information in some photos September 7, 1883, and they had six (vehicle license plates). children (including Charles Jr., born Don encourages any who may see May 7, 1892). Charles Sr. died after these photos to enjoy them and if suffering a stroke in Phoenix in 1920. possible contact him with any In 1915, Charles A. Greenlaw Jr. Charles Jr. traveled a great deal additional information regarding the met Clara Stork (born 1892) while during his life and took many photos content, identity of individuals, she worked as a Harvey Girl at the of his adventures. He was living in locations or other information about Harvey House in Seligman, Arizona. California during the final years of the photos. They married in 1917 and lived at the his life and died in 1974. His wife Charles A. Greenlaw Sr. Greenlaw ranch in Flagstaff Clara died in 1979. (born January 22, 1855) where their two daughters worked at the Edward Ayer (Dorothy and Aleene) were Don Gray lumber mill from June 1882 born. About 1924 the family 33 Torrito Lane (when he first moved into moved to San Pedro, Lake Havasu City, AZ 86403 Flagstaff) until it became the California where Charles Jr. (928) 854-1954 Arizona Lumber Company worked for the Hammond email: [email protected]

(bought by Denis Matthew Riordan) Lumber Company. In 1933, he took a in June 1887. The mill burned down position with a lumber company in on July 16, 1887 and records show Brazil where he spent seven years

Mrs. C. A. Greenlaw Sr. (Ella Lamport Greenlaw) at the Greenlaw Ranch in Flagstaff Charles A. Greenlaw's garage and gas station on Railroad Avenue in Seligman, Arizona - circa 1915 (Ladies in photo unidentified - gasoline pump base visible under horse on left)

GRAND CANYON HISTORICAL SOCIETY – THE OL' PIONEER, JAN/FEB/MAR 2005 3 Big Events Remembered by Gale Burak - New Hampshire

Kim Besom interviewed Gale Burak in August 1998. During the questioning, Kim asked one question that Gale answered very extensively...Here is the transcript of that part of the interview near the end of Side 5 of the tapes (see page 55 of the Transcript of August 4 and 5, 1998):

Besom: Were there any big Forest, from Powell Plateau, past Big me, as I was personally and vitally events that you remember from your Spring, until we got to the Canyon's involved was when Abdul Balsharoff years working in the Canyon? edge near Marble Canyon. No disappeared in 1983. (See the GCPS Burak: (I relate the one fatality, problem there, either. Dick left for newsletter of Spring 1998, where I've of 1983.) Sequoia NP soon afterwards. He and written it up as an article.) That one Where after Besom reiterates that his wife were well liked at the hurt. she'd "love" other inner canyon Canyon. Once, heading to Phantom on the stories, but changes the subject. The roundup and disposal by River Trail with Dave Buccello (then Burak: Many more do come to sales of the burros in the Canyon was head ranger at Phantom), we found a mind, many of which the NPS has sure a big event. I was in Cottonwood little pile of clothes and a pair of details on, but which I will mention Camp Ground that year and so boots, with a sheet of paper attached. later because they were big. A few missed seeing the whole thing, but I The note indicated a planned suicide, will be more personal so I will sure heard a lot on my radio. I even with the river below as the means. elaborate on those. got a few calls on my phone from "Life is too much, etc..." Looking Dick McClaren, head of around the country from potential over the edge of the 60 or so foot Search & Rescue, the Fire buyers, thinking that my camp was drop-off we realized he never could Department and old "Fly-boy" friend where the inner canyon units were have jumped and made it. No sign of of John Riffey, the ranger at operating out of. Of course, they were blood, shreds, disturbed soil or Toroweap, was flying trail-head unaware that the operation was growth... and exposed river rock patrol during the mid-70s, both to centered in Cottonwood Canyon on deposit at the bottom, before the keep track of late backpackers and to the South Rim side. I had the water ran by. Fake? Yes. He was keep up the necessary flying miles telephone number of the "Save the found later, after involved each month to retain his license. He Animals" outfit in New York City, investigation, up at a commune in and Riffey were WWII Air Force which I'd give them. One fellow in Washington. buddies, and Riffey each morning Tennessee was most indignant, It was exciting when the single- would give not only his weather data thinking I was putting him off. (P.S. wing plane hit the Mule Bridge with a to dispatch, but data for the "fly- It did end the burro population in strut and pin-wheeled into the bushes boys" as well. He had named his little Grand Canyon!) on the east side of B.A. Creek mouth. single-wing plane "Pegasus." Another rare but quite regular I happened to be down at Phantom On a day off in July 1975, I took "big event" would be Missing Hikers. from Cottonwood, so got in on the advantage one morning of Dick's This necessitated a lot of work and affairs. That was 1980. Buccello was offer to go on patrol with him. He expense as well as strain on us all, of there, and while neither the pilot nor flew from Tusayan to the Hermit course. Usually they were found, safe the plane's owner on board were hurt Trailhead, then turned west out over and apologetic, but a few stood out (just a cut on one arm) much legal Great Thumb past the Topocoba for me. One was in 1980, my first work ensued and the pilot had the Hilltop to the Hualapai Hilltop, year at Cottonwood, when Glenn book thrown at him. looking for parked cars that would Fuller was Inner Canyon Head. It was I was down at the river, too, in indicate hikers who should have when Jerry (Feldman, I think it was) 1982 when the big yellow rafts came come out. We found none. Then he went down the Tanner and was to down from Lee's Ferry carrying all flew on, for me, down to the River, come out the Grandview (which I had the vehicles and heavy gear to create over Supai, which was a thrill having done myself so knew what was the new (and much needed) sewage worked down there in 1943 at the involved). They really worked hard plant. They had a back hoe, a jeep, mine. At the River he went on on that one, as they found his pipe, a generators, a little truck, etc. It was downstream, crossing fairly low over matchcase, blood where he'd stayed a fun to see them set up a ramp and just Lava Falls, to see a party going while; lots of clues, but no person. It drive 'em off. I can't say I approve, through. At Riffey's, he waggled his was summer heat, and therefore just but improvement on the system was wings and headed east to cover the so much time to find him before too sure badly needed. They'd made the North Rim trailheads. We had the late. And they never did find him, or river trip in just one none-stop day, most air disturbance over the Kaibab his pack. The other and bigger one to and were sure proud of themselves.

4 GRAND CANYON HISTORICAL SOCIETY – THE OL' PIONEER, JAN/FEB/MAR 2005

One more "big event" and I'm mile, after which she led them up had, and the third was to go down done. In 1978, I was working at the over a low shoulder and down to the through the campground rousing all Gardens, and word was sent down B.A. Trail near the trail crossing of the "able-bodied" men in their sacks. that the Governor, Bruce Babbitt, was the creek, where there's a storage ruin By then, too, I was in touch with the to be there with his wife Hattie, and just over the trail,...and so on back up rim. Tim Mann, our NPS archivist, son Alex, aged about 2, accompanied to camp. I'd taken her on that circuit was out at Yavapai Point, and by Ben Avery (an old friend of before, as she was eager to lead a someone else out at Hopi Point, in the Governor Babbitt and then sports walk on her own...but she never tower who, with me, could triangulate editor of the Arizona Republic), as thought that the state governor would the fire source as being off west, well as two Secret Service men and be on their first venture! They all did down the Plateau Point trail a little an Arizona Highways photographer! well. Ben Avery was an old Canyon ways. The fire was getting bigger, in This on top of the usual crowd...as it hiker, so took them out to Plateau all the dead grass around, but was in was for the 4th of July weekend! I Point, etc., and was actually amongst rough boulders and rocks, had a capable little SCA on hand to introducing the governor to the off the trail. With water packs, tools, help, and Victor Watahomagi was the interior of the Canyon on that trip. I and plenty of bodies handy we got it Maintenance and Pumphouse man, so enjoyed getting acquainted with the out, but I sure watched it most of the had coverage. I saved a good (and little family, and the "professional night. It proved to have been started big) site for the party, near the ranger men" were low key, which helped. by one of my enthusiastic fire- station, under the tall Cottonwoods, A year or so later I helped out at fighting campers who had brought and where I could keep an eye on the Gardens over the 4th of July some fireworks to camp and set them things. I had my SCA, Karen Hughes, holiday again; was the only ranger off for the benefit of friends up on the lead the men on a tour one day to see there at the time, too, when I was rim. When it got away from him he as much as possible from there. They awakened around 10 PM with the came hurrying back to camp and at went up east on the Tonto Trail to an terrifying word "Fire." One look out least had the sense to alert us. What a old abandoned trail down the next the door showed a glow, just below scare! drainage. It's easy to find, though not the campground, so my first reaction That's it. I'm sure there were used at all, down to some ruins up in was to let dispatch know. My second many more, but those stand out now. the cliff to the left, about 1/3rd of a was to assemble all the equipment I

GRAND CANYON HISTORICAL SOCIETY – THE OL' PIONEER, JAN/FEB/MAR 2005 5 The Old Geezer Hike by John S. Azar – Fredonia AZ

An era of Grand Canyon Road for the turn-off (1057) to backcountry hiking ended in the rim descent that leads down 2004 with the death of George to Schmutz Spring. After two Steck. The Grand Canyon hours of dusty dirt roads we hiking community lost John were happy to finally arrive at Harvey Butchart in 2002, so the the rim overlooking the im- two backcountry explorers that pressive Tuckup drainage. We discovered so many remote donned our packs and headed areas of our national treasure down what’s left of Schmutz’ are now gone. The efforts they trail down into Tuckup put forth in the post World War Canyon. This area gets little II era are significant for today’s visitation by man and I wasn’t Grand Canyon backcountry surprised to find a rattlesnake users. Butchart often hiked at our first rest stop under a alone; Steck almost always with huge block of stone we refer to companions. Butchart traveled as Cowboy Rock. It was used with a light pack in a rapid George and Allen Steck by Native Americans hundreds manner covering long distances [Photo by Sally Underwood of years ago and by cowboys in short forays. Steck executed long invited me to accompany him on the ranging their steers down in the area in loop hikes sometimes taking weeks, or hike. His plans now called for young the 1950s and 1960s. There is the usual months. Both men had one thing in strong-bodied men that he referred to as cowboy junk lying around and if you common -- they shared their discov- sherpas. They would carry the load for look closely one can find the evidence eries with other Grand Canyon hikers the old timers. He decided that I of the earlier inhabitants. After saying through their books and countless wouldn’t have to be a “sherpa” but I goodbye to the rattler, we walked east personal correspondences. wouldn’t qualify as an “old geezer” along the top of the lava flow to the In August 2002, George Steck either. All I would have to do is carry escarpment that rises above the bed of telephoned and asked if I would go down the first night’s dinner and my Tuckup. I had used this route earlier in along on what he referred to as his “old own gear and water. Then he mention- the year and so led the group down the geezer hike.” Specifically, a difficult ed that his brother Allen and author cliffs to the bed. I was a bit concerned midwestern Grand Canyon hike down Craig Childs were both going to join with George and Don but we all made to the bed of Tuckup Canyon and on to the group. That was the clincher. I had it down and looked for water in the the Colorado River. Following a down- for years wanted to hike with Allen, bed...one ten gallon pocket of leftover stream riverbank traverse to the mouth and I had previously hiked with Craig rainwater. We soon made camp and of Stairway Canyon, we would ascend and his wife Reagan on a rugged hike enjoyed the group dinner that I was Stairway Canyon to the Esplanade. The down into Marble Canyon with fond carrying. Esplanade is a broad bench land form- memories. I agreed to join the group. ...continued on page 7 ed by the top layer of the super group The sherpas would be Allen’s son Lee, of Supai Sandstones. We would then Don Mattox’s son Kyle, backtrack to our vehicles on the rim. I George’s son Michael, and told George I would think it over and Michael’s friend Ronnie get back to him in a week. I thought it Campbell. They would carry over. My back was still sore from 80 the gear and food for the old days of hiking earlier that year and I geezers. A friend of Allen’s remembered that contouring the from Manhattan and Craig’s Tuckup Drainage was one of the most friend Colin Wann would difficult sections of our Long Walk round out the group of eleven. through the Grand Canyon. I called October soon arrived and George back a few days later and told we met at my place in Fredonia him I would bow out on his invitation. on the Arizona Strip. We gath- Time went by and in early ered up our food and gear and September George called and again headed out onto the Toroweap Lee and Allen Steck [Photo by John S. Azar]

6 GRAND CANYON HISTORICAL SOCIETY – THE OL' PIONEER, JAN/FEB/MAR 2005

The Old Geezer Hike...continued from page 6

The second day, I marveled at been impaired with failed cataract Esplanade. A hiking party, with Allen Steck’s climbing ability as we surgery and he had trouble seeing the George’s Grand Canyon Loop Hikes in descended Tuckup towards the ground below him...not good for climb- hand, were having trouble finding the Colorado River. We had arrived at a ing up cliffs in the Grand Canyon. The descent point into Stairway Canyon. typical Canyon pour off that required heat of the day complicated the situa- They didn’t recognize George and were the usual bypass, this time on the right tion and when we stood below the last complaining to us about his descrip- side. As I prepared to take the bypass, main barrier to the top of the Redwall tions in the book. There were some red Allen called down to his son Lee and our group huddled in the shade. Above faces and apologies when they realized asked him how it looked from below. us loomed the talus, in full sun, and they were talking to the author. George Lee muttered something like “there’s a beyond the climb up the steep cap of straightened them out on the route and couple of footholds,” and to my disbe- limestone. The old geezers sucked it up we moved on to Cottonwood Canyon, lief Allen immediately down climbed and relied on years of desert hiking and a tributary of Tuckup. There’s a an improbable cleft on the left side of climbing. Allen, of course, looked like reliable spring at Cottonwood along the 30 foot drop. I stood there amazed, he had just sauntered out of an REI with some mining relics and unusual and then took the bypass. Later, after catalog, I didn’t worry about him...but Native American rock art. Near the getting past the last obstacle before the other older men looked like they spring is an old gathering site complete reaching the river, I marveled at were out of steam. I waited for 30 with a large mescal pit and an interest- Allen’s effortless style. He seemed to minutes and then decided to begin the ing boulder where they sharpened their “float” along above the terrain. Where strenuous ascent up the sun-baked spear points. The next day, much to my the average hiker struggles, Allen uses talus. The others followed and we relief, we all made it on our own power the minimum amount of energy found our sweaty selves perched below back to the vehicles. After a toast with covering the same ground. the final portion of the climb. As Colin cold drinks, we motored to Fredonia It was along the river traverse from rigged a rope on the face of the cliff and the comforts of city life. the mouth of Tuckup down stream to that faces west, I remembered the crack Stairway when Don Mattox started we had climbed down a few feeling pain. He was having trouble months earlier. I wiggled up catching his breath and was quite red in the crack with my fifty foot the face. Only two years earlier, Don strap around my neck, then underwent bypass surgery and we all lowered the strap with a obviously became alarmed. Fortu- carbiner tied in and asked nately, a boat party with a paramedic Don to clip in my pack. It came by in time to give Don a ride was then that I knew Don down to Stairway, check his vitals, and would come up my way and question him about his medications. forget the roped ascent. The After an hour or so, he was feeling others had ascended the better and we set up camp at the mouth roped route with packs on Sharpening Rock in Cottonwood Canyon of Stairway. The river party offered to their backs...Don couldn’t and [Photo by John S. Azar] take Don down the river with them but wouldn’t do that. Don refused the offer. He was That evening, we listened to the I would hike just one more time determined to finish the hike! sweet sounds of Craig and Kyle’s flutes with George and Allen. In November I woke up at first light with a reverberating off the surrounding stone 2003, Grand Canyon hikers and river feeling of dread. All my worst fears had walls. Allen added his yodeling and it runners would gather on the south rim been affirmed yesterday with Don’s was a great concert. It was Mike for a celebration and awards ceremony physical problems. The ascent up Steck’s turn to cook and he came up sponsored by Grand Canyon National Stairway Canyon is one of the most with a tasty ham and potato dinner. Park in honor of George. After the difficult routes through the Redwall Some of us found a nice spot at the festivities on the rim, some of us hiked Limestone and Supai Sandstone in any base of the Supai Sandstone near the down to Indian Garden for a week of part of the Canyon. Even with the last pool of water we would see in day hiking, conversing, and relaxation. sherpas carrying most of the weight, I Stairway Canyon. With the strenuous A few months later, in the Spring figured we were in for some serious efforts of the day we slept soundly until of 2004, George Steck left this world trouble. As we worked our way up first light. behind. through the lower formations, my A humorous incident occurred the anxiety grew. I worried about Don as next morning as we were topping out well as George. George’s eyesight had the head of Stairway onto the

GRAND CANYON HISTORICAL SOCIETY – THE OL' PIONEER, JAN/FEB/MAR 2005 7 How Pipe Creek Received Its Name by Ranger Naturalist Hugh H. Waesche *

It seems strange that the name their activities. These men often discovered the pipe when they came "Pipe" should be given to any body of traveled along the Tonto Platform along. One can well imagine the water, yet examples of this are found which was the only practical way to speculation as to how the pipe got in Arizona. They are Pipe Spring and follow the course of the Colorado there and what the fate of the original Pipe Creek. Pipe Spring, now a without resorting to the plateaus owner might have been. It seemed National Monument, is famous for its along the rims. Good showings of that there had been some traveler connection with early Mormon copper were discovered in the Red along that very route many years history. It is located in northwestern Wall limestone near Grandview. before. Cameron enjoyed the joke by Arizona near the Utah line. Pipe Considerable prospecting was done at himself for a while, but it was too Creek is a tributary of the Colorado a locality near what is now known as good to keep so the story finally River in the Grand Canyon and is the "Corkscrew" on the Bright Angel leaked out. It was this little incident seen daily, yet seldom given any Trail. which was responsible for the name, particular attention. Indeed, there is One day in 1894, four of these Pipe Creek, which the stream nothing unusual about this small hardy prospectors came along the continues to bear. canyon-bound stream. It is the origin Tonto Trial from Grandview, headed Pipe Creek flows into the of its name which adds the touch of for the "Corkscrew" locality. The Colorado River from the south side of human interest. names of all these men have since the Grand Canyon, nearly opposite Many of the names given to become very familiar in the vicinity Bright Angel Creek. It may be seen features of Grand Canyon and of Grand Canyon. They were: R. H. from the Yavapai Observation Station surrounding country are legacies left Cameron, his brother Niles, James as the canyon directly below and to by some early explorers, trappers, or McClure and Pete Berry. R. H. the right--the next tributary canyon prospectors. These men either named Cameron, for some reason, went on east of the one containing Garden the objects concerned directly, or the ahead of the other members of the Creek. name became attached through some party. When he reached the point anecdote. Pipe Creek is no exception. where the stream now known as *Information obtained from Some of the early pioneers in "Pipe Creek" is located, he Mr. Emery Kolb, Grand Canyon. Grand Canyon country were certain discovered an old Meerschaum pipe that such a wonderful natural lying on the ground. He picked up the phenomenon as the Canyon must pipe and scratched on it a date about * Reprinted by permission of the Grand contain vast riches in valuable ores, one hundred years previous, then Canyon Association from Grand Canyon Nature Notes, Volume 8, Number 3, so much prospecting for gold, copper, placed it on a willow twig in such a June 1933, pp. 155-156. lead and zinc was a natural result. way that the members of the party The large number of prospect holes to following could not miss it as they be found at several locations along came by. His little joke worked the Canyon walls is mute evidence of perfectly since the three others

8 GRAND CANYON HISTORICAL SOCIETY – THE OL' PIONEER, JAN/FEB/MAR 2005

Padre Garces’ “Puerto de Bucareli” by Jim Knipmeyer – Lees Summit, MO

Many writers and historians have Padre Garces and his Native accurate for the Coconino Plateau, expounded upon the first European American guides left the Havasupai and his term “Jabesua” is simply the sighting of the Grand Canyon by village in the depths of Havasu Spanish rendering of the word Garcia Lopez de Cardenas and his Canyon on the morning of June 25, Havasu. men in 1540, and most have specu- 1776. In his diary entry he says: The next day, June 26, the padre lated upon the location of this initial “Accompanied by five Indians I went begins by saying: “Four more view, commonly held to have been on two leagues south and east with much leagues southeast and south and I the South Rim somewhere in the difficulty, partly on foot, partly on stopped in sight of the succession of vicinity of Desert View. However, horseback (they had taken our very deep gorges among which flows only a comparatively few scholars animals out by another path), and the Colorado River.” This 10.52 have written about the second halted on the way up the heights at a miles from Mexican Jack Spring European visit to the Canyon by watering-place with scant supply.” would put them in the vicinity of the Padre Francisco Garces over two I have interpreted this passage to head of today’s Turquoise Canyon. centuries later, and but a scant mean that Garces and his companions From this vantage point the Colorado handful have put forth their opinions traveled two leagues, or some 5.26 River itself cannot be seen, Garces on just where this encounter may miles, south, and then turned east. himself in describing the “gorges” have been. Those who have have This would have taken them from the saying only that “among which flows placed it on the South Rim anywhere Havasupai village, which at that time the Colorado River.” He does not say from Point Quetzal, overlooking was located near the mouth of that he saw the actual waters of the Royal Arch Creek and Aztec Hualapai Canyon, up Havasu Canyon stream itself. Amphitheater, to as far eastward as itself and put them at or near the Garces continues: “From here I Grandview Point. mouth of Lee Canyon. The party saw that in a very large mountain In an attempt to pin down “then turned east” up Lee Canyon, range extending from southeast to Garces’ first viewpoint more which does trend east-northeast. northwest and blue with distance a precisely, I turned to the good The party was now on foot deep passage was cut, steep-sided like father’s own diary. Garces was following the historic Topocoba a man-made trough, through which journeying from the lower Colorado Trail, which was not improved for the Colorado River enters these lands; River region eastward to the Hopi horseback travel until the end of the I called it the Puerto de Bucareli.” pueblos and his excellent journal 1800s. Their horses were probably This “mountain range” is today’s faithfully records daily directions and taken out by way of the so-called Kaibab Plateau, which when seen distances of travel. Comparing his Moqui Trail farther to the south. from the head of Turquoise Canyon descriptions with the present-day That the padre was in fact following does indeed trend southeast and landscape and geography should the Topocoba trail is further borne northwest, centering upon present provide a fairly exact location. For out by his mention of “a watering- Point Sublime. The name bestowed this purpose I used the translation place with scant supply,” a good by Garces on the canyon was in done by John Galvin in 1967. description of Topocoba Spring. honor of Antonio Maria de Bucareli y The first problem encountered Completing his entry for June 25, Ursua, in 1776 the Viceroy of New was to convert Garces’ distances, Garces says: “In the afternoon I got Spain. which were in leagues, to modern-day to the top of that most painful ascent The June 26 description finishes miles. To this end I turned to Ted J. (its precipices are horrifying), and thusly: “Although to my sight it Warner, who in 1976 had edited the after a further three leagues southeast seemed quite near, it was very hard to 1776 journal of Padre Velez de and south over land with much reach on account of the canyons in Escalante. Therein he states: “A herbage, junipers, pines, and so forth, between. It lay to the east-northeast Spanish league in the eighteenth I arrived at a Jabesua rancheria…” from where I looked. I saw toward century was the equivalent of 2.63 “Three leagues southeast and south” the north some puffs of smoke which U.S. statute miles today. Eighteenth- would have been some 7.89 miles and I was told were made by the century travelers calculated a league placed the party in the immediate area Payuchas, who dwell on the other as the distance traveled for one hour of present-day Mexican Jack Spring side of the river.” on horseback over level terrain at a on a northern branch of Pasture Once again, Garces’ description normal gait.” Wash. Garces’ description of the is completely accurate. His “Puerto surrounding landscape is very ...continued on page 10

GRAND CANYON HISTORICAL SOCIETY – THE OL' PIONEER, JAN/FEB/MAR 2005 9 Padre Garces...continued from page 9 de Bucareli,” today’s Grand Canyon, historian and author P. T. Reilly. In it southeast, eventually joining the is in fact some four miles from the he and inveterate Canyon hiker and northwest-southeast alignment of the head of Turquoise Canyon; it is explorer Harvey Butchart had also boundary between the Kaibab “blocked” by the intervening gorge of concluded that what he termed National Forest and Grand Canyon Turquoise Canyon; and it does lay to “Turquoise Bay” was the likely place National Park. Some 2 1/4 miles the northeast. To the north of the that Garces first saw the Grand down this bull-dozed route a former Colorado River was indeed the Canyon itself. 4-wheel drive track, now blocked off historic homeland of the Kaibab band Garces’ viewpoint at the head of by the park service to motorized of Paiute Indians, Garces’ Turquoise Canyon is not difficult to travel, winds about a half-mile “Payuchas.” reach today. Fellow Grand Canyon northeast to the rim of Turquoise After determining, in my mind at Historical Society member Mike Ford Canyon at Bench Mark 6514 on the least, that Padre Garces’ viewpoint of and I made our way there this past old U.S.G.S. 15’ Havasupai Point “Puerto de Bucareli” could very well fall to see it for ourselves and take map. It only takes an hour or so to have been from the head of Turquoise photographs. From the Pasture Wash walk from the ranger station out to Canyon, I was therefore pleased to Ranger Station, alongside the road the overlook, but be sure to allow an find this past spring, in the Special leading north to Havasupai Point, a ample amount of time to linger and Collections of Flagstaff’s Northern narrow route posted with a National enjoy Padre Garces’ wonderful Arizona University, a corroborating Park Service “Road Closed” sign viewpoint! document written by Colorado river extends nearly arrow-straight to the

Turquoise Canyon - October 2004 [Photo by Jim Knipmeyer]

10 GRAND CANYON HISTORICAL SOCIETY – THE OL' PIONEER, JAN/FEB/MAR 2005

Grand Canyon Events

In cooperation with the Grand Canyon Association, we will publish in The Ol'Pioneer a list of events and activities at the Grand Canyon to keep all of you abreast of what's happening, especially because of several anniversaries that will be celebrated over the next year (El Tovar Hotel and Hopi House will be 100 in early 2005.) N414H Prescott lectures will be held at Sharlot Hall Museum, 415 W. Gurley (two blocks west of Courthouse Plaza). Space at the Prescott lecture series is limited; please call (928) 445-3122 to inquire about seating. Flagstaff lectures will be A 75th Birthday held at Cline Library, at the intersection of Knoles Drive and McCreary Road on the NAU campus. Parking is available to the west of the library (Lot P13 on Celebration Riordan Road). All lectures are free and open to the public. If you have any questions about the events listed on this page, please write by Lee Albertson – Tempe AZ Grand Canyon Association at PO Box 399, Grand Canyon AZ 86023 or [email protected] or call (800) 858-2808 or visit The Ford Tri-Motor N414H had a www.grandcanyon.org. th 75 Birthday on Saturday, September 4, January 16 March 16 2004. “The Ford Tri-Motor celebrated by giving rides to the young and old at the Artist and longtime inner-canyon Oral and public historian Rosemary Grand Canyon Airport.” resident Bruce Aiken will Diaz will discuss Growing Up in N414H was washed and waxed, the discuss the History of Grand Flagstaff as the Daughter of interior was “like new,” the windows Canyon Art. The lecture begins Mexican American Immigrants. were “squeaky” clean, the crew – pilot at 1:00 PM in the Exhibit Hall at The lecture begins at 6:30 PM at the and co-pilot – were ready for the occa- the Sharlot Hall Museum in NAU Cline Library. sion, and those wanting to take a ride Prescott. were lined up across the tarmac. March 30 No flight attendants today or yester- January 26 Archaeoastromer Bryan Bates will day. No in-flight meals or beverages. No Arizona Highways Magazine discuss the centuries-old traditions of in-flight movies. No overhead luggage bins. No lines for the rest rooms (no photo editor Richard Maack will several Colorado Plateau American restrooms!). discuss How to Tell Engaging Indian tribes of “Reading” Celestial N414H rose to the occasion. Straight Stories with Compelling Objects to determine the timing for down the runway for a take off. The pilot Photographs. The lecture begins such critical societal functions as eased back on the stick, the aircraft at 6:30 PM at the NAU Cline planting, harvesting, and ceremonial rotated, and N414H was in its element – Library. gatherings. The lecture begins at flying over northern Arizona. N414H 1:00 PM in the Exhibit Hall at the will not do a cross Canyon scenic flight this day. Maybe the proud bird will do February 16 Sharlot Hall Museum in Prescott. th Folklorist Hal Cannon will that on the 100 Birthday! present Songs and Stories of the The approach for landing was picture perfect. All eyes were fixed on N414H. Grand Canyon. The lecture * * * * Some of those on the tarmac wiped a tear begins at 6:30 PM at the NAU Kolb Studio and others marveled at the graceful touch Cline Library. Exhibit Schedule down. Those pilots in aircraft waiting for

Now to February 20 takeoff and watching N414H were prob- February 20 Writing Down the River: Into the ably thinking – “Those were the good old Grand Canyon Field Institute Heart of Grand Canyon. Writing days - flying by the seat of your pants.” instructor Sally Underwood will Down the River captures in lavish Bill Stout designed the Ford Tri- Motor. He was an aviation pioneer. The give an overview of the Diverse color photography and eloquent th Plant Communities found in the words the experience of a whitewater Honorary Co-Pilot for this 75 celebra- park, including their ceremonial adventure through Grand Canyon on tion flight is Bill Stout's granddaughter, Barbara Shelton. and healing uses by indigenous the Colorado River. Fifteen of America’s best women writers write Grand Canyon Airways, owners of peoples from past to present. The the Ford Tri-Motor, arranged the cele- lecture begins at 1:00 PM in the of their life-changing experiences in the heart of the Grand Canyon. bration and barbeque. Thanks, Grand Exhibit Hall at the Sharlot Hall Canyon Airways, for this opportunity to Museum in Prescott. witness N414H flying over northern Arizona.

GRAND CANYON HISTORICAL SOCIETY – THE OL' PIONEER, JAN/FEB/MAR 2005 11 Xxxxx

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12 GRAND CANYON HISTORICAL SOCIETY – THE OL' PIONEER, JAN/FEB/MAR 2005