DISCOVER OUR NATIONAL PARKS a GUIDE to ARIZONA’S PARKS, MONUMENTS, HISTORIC SITES, “National Parks“National Are the Best Idea Had.” Ever We RECREATION AREAS & MORE

Home , A Bigger Grand Canyon, Navajo Bridge, Navajo National Monument

22 Parks, 3 Proposed Monuments, 1 Million Opportunities AUGUST 2016

Celebrating ESCAPE • EXPLORE • EXPERIENCE 100 YEARS OF THE NATIONAL PARK SERVICE — WALLACE STEGNER WALLACE — DISCOVER OUR NATIONAL PARKS A GUIDE TO ARIZONA’S PARKS, MONUMENTS, HISTORIC SITES, “National parks“National are the best idea had.” ever we RECREATION AREAS & MORE

Toroweap Point, Grand Canyon National Park r e iv UTAH R C O o L d O ra R lo A o D C O

Glen Canyon NEVADA National Recreation Area P Pipe Spring L 3 EDITOR’S LETTER A COLORADO National Monument Lake Powell T E Fredonia 89A A 4 THE SOUND OF FALLEN TREES U Page Navajo National “As the earth erodes, the fossilized trees cannot hold their weight 89 Vermilion Cliffs Monument and they break into pieces. Calling it a forest is not quite correct. National Monument Kayenta Nothing is standing. This is what became of a forest, each tree Grand Canyon-Parashant N resting, continuing to fall, the energy of its life given up.” O National Monument Canyon de Chelly An Essay by Craig Childs Y 160 National Monument r N Lake Mead Rive A o National Recreation Area ad C or Grand Canyon ol Chinle 8 WHAT’S NEW? C D National Park A N Arizona is home to more than 20 sites that are administered by G R 89 Lake Mead 191 the National Park Service and several others that are run by the Bureau of Land Management. If proponents get their way, there Wupatki National could be three more. By Kayla Frost Monument Ganado Hubbell Trading Post August National Historic Site 40 Lake Mohave 10 NATIONAL PARKS TIMELINE Sunset Crater Volcano Kingman Flagstaff National Monument 40 Petrified Forest 12 THIS LAND IS YOUR LAND 2016 National Park The National Park Service manages and protects more than Walnut Canyon 84 million acres in parks, monuments, battlefields, historic sites, National Monument 40 preserves, seashores, lakeshores and more all across the United 17 States. Here in Arizona, we have 22 national parks, extending from Tuzigoot National Holbrook Monument ARIZONA Coronado National Memorial in the extreme south to Pipe Spring Lit Cottonwood M tle National Monument way up north. By Kathy Montgomery C Montezuma Castle O o 260 lo r National Monument G a 14 CANYON DE CHELLY NATIONAL MONUMENT d O o R L ive 16 CASA GRANDE RUINS NATIONAL MONUMENT Camp Verde L r Lake Havasu O N 18 CHIRICAHUA NATIONAL MONUMENT

B ill Williams River R 20 CORONADO NATIONAL MEMORIAL I M CALIFORNIA Agua Fria 21 FORT BOWIE NATIONAL HISTORIC SITE

r National Monument e v r

i GLEN CANYON NATIONAL RECREATION AREA e 22

r v

r Theodore Roosevelt

e e

v a Lake

i 10 i

p 24 GRAND CANYON NATIONAL PARK R

a R

i ive R r m 17 lt r a

a F

e o y

d d a 26 GRAND CANYON-PARASHANT NATIONAL MONUMENT a r 188 a s

u e r NEW MEXICO s g o V l a A o Tonto National H Phoenix 27 HUBBELL TRADING POST NATIONAL HISTORIC SITE C er iv Monument t R S Sal 28 LAKE MEAD NATIONAL RECREATION AREA O 60 Globe San Carlos N Mesa Reservoir 30 MONTEZUMA CASTLE NATIONAL MONUMENT O 10 River R ila A Sonoran Desert G 32 NAVAJO NATIONAL MONUMENT N 8 National Monument Casa Grande Ruins ORGAN PIPE CACTUS NATIONAL MONUMENT National Monument 34 r ive ila R 36 PETRIFIED FOREST NATIONAL PARK G Yuma D G Casa Grande i E la 38 PIPE SPRING NATIONAL MONUMENT

85 R S S iv GET MORE ONLINE an 10 er ta E C 40 SAGUARO NATIONAL PARK ruz www.arizonahighways.com R R iv U S A T er 42 SUNSET CRATER VOLCANO NATIONAL MONUMENT M E X IC O Ajo 10 Ironwood Forest 44 TONTO NATIONAL MONUMENT /azhighways National Monument 45 TUMACÁCORI NATIONAL HISTORICAL PARK @azhighways Tucson Saguaro Fort Bowie National @arizonahighways Willcox Historic Site 46 TUZIGOOT NATIONAL MONUMENT National Park Saguaro Organ Pipe Cactus (West Unit) National Park 186 48 WALNUT CANYON NATIONAL MONUMENT National Monument 19 (East Unit) S a Chiricahua National n 50 WUPATKI NATIONAL MONUMENT

Monument P

Tumacácori National 90 d FRONT COVER: The sheer cliffs of Toroweap Over- G r Historical Park o

52 NATIONAL PARKS GUIDE look frame a view of the Colorado River near the U R i U S A v western edge of Grand Canyon National Park. L e M E X IC O Sierra Vista r F 56 PARTING SHOT Nick Berezenko NIKON D7100, 1.3 SEC, F/22, ISO 100, 17 MM LENS

O Nogales BACK COVER: Josef Muench’s photograph of boat- F Coronado National ers in Lake Powell’s Driftwood Canyon appeared in Memorial C the January 1964 issue of Arizona Highways. Eight A MEXICO PHOTOGRAPHIC PRINTS AVAILABLE L years later, the lake received federal protection as I Prints of some photographs in this issue are available for purchase. To view options, F the Glen Canyon National Recreation Area. O visit www.arizonahighwaysprints.com. For more information, call 866-962-1191. Northern Arizona University Cline Library R N I A MAP BY KEVIN KIBSEY www.arizonahighways.com 1 editor’s LETTER

AUGUST 2016 VOL. 92, NO. 8

800-543-5432 www.arizonahighways.com

PUBLISHER Win Holden EDITOR Robert Stieve ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER, I watched the sun set with one DIRECTOR OF of the richest men in the world. We met by chance. SALES & MARKETING Kelly Mero At the Grand Canyon. I was up there to hike the MANAGING EDITOR Kelly Vaughn Hermit Trail. It was about 6:30 p.m., the night ASSOCIATE EDITOR Noah Austin before my hike, and I was lingering with the EDITORIAL ADMINISTRATOR Nikki Kimbel masses outside El Tovar. I still had about 15 min- PHOTOGRAPHY EDITOR Jeff Kida utes before sunset, so I went inside the old lodge, CREATIVE DIRECTOR Barbara Glynn Denney where I saw Superintendent Dave Uberuaga stand- ART DIRECTOR Keith Whitney ing with a dignified but nondescript gentleman. I had no idea who he was, but MAP DESIGNER Kevin Kibsey Dave waved me over anyway and introduced us. The name was vaguely famil- PRODUCTION DIRECTOR Michael Bianchi iar, and then it came to me. WEBMASTER Victoria J. Snow Turns out, the dignified but nondescript gentleman was one of the five richest CIRCULATION DIRECTOR Nicole Bowman men in the world. I don’t know where he ranks now, and I didn’t bother to look, FINANCE DIRECTOR Bob Allen because it’s not important. Not when you’re watching the sun go down over the OPERATIONS/IT MANAGER Cindy Bormanis western horizon of the Grand Canyon. On paper, the dignified gentleman and I have very little in common, but that night on the South Rim, our portfolios CORPORATE OR TRADE SALES 602-712-2019 were irrelevant. We just stood there, together — no words, no pretense — mes- SPONSORSHIP SALES merized by Mother Nature’s denouement on the world’s greatest stage. REPRESENTATION On Media Publications Boyce Thompson Lesley Bennett Although Ken Burns is usually credited with the quote, it was Wallace Steg- Arboretum 602-445-7160 ner who first proclaimed that “national parks are the best idea we ever had.” If you’ve ever watched a sunset at the Canyon or hiked the Panorama Trail LETTERS TO THE EDITOR [email protected] in Yosemite or made the drive to Denali, you get it. Some of the world’s most 2039 W. Lewis Avenue Phoenix, AZ 85009 impressive landscapes are within our national parks. This month, the National Park Service celebrates its 100th anniversary, and

GOVERNOR Douglas A. Ducey we’re joining in with a portfolio of Arizona’s 22 national parks, which range in size from 40 acres to more than 1.5 million. Somewhere in between is Petrified DIRECTOR, DEPARTMENT OF TRANSPORTATION John S. Halikowski Forest National Park, which is where we sent Craig Childs to find an essay. We

ARIZONA TRANSPORTATION were seeking words. He was in search of solitude. BOARD CHAIRMAN Joseph E. La Rue “The silence we were looking for,” he writes in The Sound of Fallen Trees, “had VICE CHAIRMAN Deanna L. Beaver something to do with time. We needed a place where quiet has been dwelling MEMBERS William F. Cuthbertson for millions of years. We entered this desert to let history unspool, letting time Michael S. Hammond trail away, giving the present a fair head start. When we came upon the first Jack W. Sellers piece of a petrified tree, a zinc-white round of a Triassic conifer trunk in the Steven E. Stratton middle of the wash, the well of eons opened wide.” Arlando S. Teller It’s a beautiful collection of words that leads into a short piece on three proposed national monuments: one near Sedona, one along the Gila River and Arizona Highways® (ISSN 0004-1521) is published monthly by the Arizona Department of Transportation. Subscription price: $24 a year in the U.S., another up north near the Grand Canyon. The plans are in place, but it will $44 outside the U.S. Single copy: $4.99 U.S. Call 800-543-5432. Subscrip- take congressional approval or the president’s pen to make any of them hap- tion correspondence and change of address information: Arizona High- pen. Time will tell. ways, P.O. Box 8521, Big Sandy, TX 75755-8521. Periodical postage paid at Phoenix, AZ, and at additional mailing office. CANADA POST INTERNA- Meanwhile, as I write this, my good friend and colleague Dave Uberuaga — TIONAL PUBLICATIONS MAIL PRODUCT (CANADIAN DISTRIBUTION) SALES another dignified gentleman — is in his final days as superintendent of Grand AGREEMENT NO. 40732015. SEND RETURNS TO QUAD/GRAPHICS, P.O. BOX Canyon National Park. After 31 years with the Park Service, he’s retiring to 456, NIAGARA FALLS ON L2E 6V2. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Arizona Highways, P.O. Box 8521, Big Sandy, TX 75755-8521. Copyright © spend more time with his wife, two daughters and four grandchildren. Our 2016 by the Arizona Department of Transportation. Reproduction in whole loss is their gain. On behalf of everyone who loves America’s greatest national or in part without permission is prohibited. The magazine does not accept and is not responsible for unsolicited materials. park, thank you, Dave. We’ll miss you.

PRODUCED IN THE USA ROBERT STIEVE, EDITOR Follow me on Instagram: @arizonahighways

PHOTOGRAPH BY PAUL MARKOW www.arizonahighways.com 3 AN ESSAY ABOUT PETRIFIED FOREST NATIONAL PARK BY CRAIG CHILDS THE SOUND OF FALLEN TREES “As the earth erodes, the fossilized trees cannot hold their weight and they break into pieces. Calling it a forest is not quite correct. Nothing is standing. This is what became of A petrified tree, hundreds of millions of years old, a forest, each tree resting, continuing to fall, lies along the Crystal Forest Loop at Petrified Forest National Park. The trail is named for the the energy of its life given up.” crystals found in petrified logs. Larry Lindahl

4 AUGUST 2016 www.arizonahighways.com 5 REIGHT TRAINS THUNDER through Holbrook, win- time. We needed a place where quiet has been dwelling for dowsills rattling day and night. They come through millions of years. We entered this desert to let history unspool, without slowing, and when you stand nearby, their letting time trail away, giving the present a fair head start. wind screams and buffets you. When we came upon the first piece of a petrified tree, a zinc- What I enjoy is the silence that follows, the Dop- white round of a Triassic conifer trunk in the middle of the plering whoosh of the last car as it disappears down wash, the well of eons opened wide. What time was it now? Fthe tracks. The sound of the desert closes back in, the quiet This crystallized piece of a tree, as big as a footlocker, was grumblings of a population-5,000 town in a windswept corner between 209 million and 213 million years old. of Arizona. A couple miles away from the interstate, cars and trucks become less audible and soon nothing can be heard but THE PARK IS DIVIDED INTO FORESTS. Black Forest in the north, the country beneath your feet, the rails clicking and tapping Rainbow Forest in the south, and the dazzling jasper fields of before they finally fall silent. This is the sound of time slowing, the Middle Forest between the two. Hardly a standing, living and sometimes stopping altogether, under a crystal-blue sky. tree exists out here, yet this landscape was once rich in forests, A ranger at Petrified Forest National Park said to be careful dominated by columnar Araucarioxylon arizonicum evergreen about what you find in the ground out here, that time is mercu- trees standing up to 200 feet tall. They fell on the western edge rial. Her kids found a Puebloan burial jar in their backyard and of the supercontinent Pangaea when what is now Arizona was she got that thing re-buried as fast as she could. Hopis told her about 16 degrees above the equator, as opposed to 35 degrees where to put ash to settle the ghosts, to put death back to rest. north, where it now sits. This was a landscape of deltas, With time slowing and stopping as it does in this part of the marshes and floodplains where the trees fell and came to rest desert, the passage of a thousand years is nothing. The ancient along river bends. dead lie here as if it were yesterday, their burial ornaments Within an hour, we’d lost count of pieces of trees each big ringed around and laid across their skeletons just beneath the enough for a flatbed. By the time we camped that evening, a dry, cracked surface. little cookstove unfolded, a pair of sleeping bags dusted onto The park where the ranger worked lies across either side of the ground, we were surrounded by whole, toppled trees, an Long shadows form on the weathered buttes of Petrified Forest National Park at sunset. George H.H. Huey Interstate 40 east of Holbrook. When she gave us permits, she entire forest laid flat. The biggest were too wide to reach said there were three other backpackers out there somewhere around with our arms, and some were a hundred feet long in the 147 square miles of the park, doubtful we would see each in the same position where they first came to rest, unmoved branches were broken off, bark often stripped. The trees would sandbars once gathered, bringing back lost landscapes. other. With no trails, designated camping areas, comfort sta- for more than 200 million years. Root burls the size of cars have lain naked and bright in mud and gravel, waiting to turn She sang as she walked, her shadow rolling across rounds of tions, drinking fountains, protective railings, trash cans or sce- lay half-buried in fine, brindled sediments, the remains of a to stone. petrified wood and caramel-colored stone. The trees, of which nic overlooks, the backcountry is the emptiness it’s supposed bend in a big Triassic river where fallen trees once piled like I looked up and saw my friend silhouetted against the there were hundreds, were as big around as tractor tires. Some to be. Hiking out from the paved road that runs through the jackstraws. Volcanoes in present-day Nevada and Califor- indigo horizon. She was the last sundial of the day, the last were as pink and translucent as country ham. We walked middle of the park, a friend and I eyeballed the direction we nia dropped layers of silica-heavy ash across this part of the thing standing. With a big moon coming up on the other side through reds and agate-yellows, and the ligneous mazes of wanted to go, no marker or sign to point one way or another. Southwest, adding what was essentially powdered glass to the of the sky, one day from full, the heavens were now our clock, thin bark turned into stone. As the earth erodes, the fossilized A car or two passed by every half-hour or 45 minutes, until we mix. Packed tight under countless tons of earth that gradually our calendar. Stars began to show, and the silence that deep- trees cannot hold their weight and they break into pieces. Call- could no longer hear them, badland washes carrying us into a covered the place, these trees were buried in glass and mud as ened around us was like that of a train departing, the flurry of ing it a forest is not quite correct. Nothing is standing. This is noise-free void. Even our footsteps were softly spoken, both of rivers and seas flowed high above them. Their cells filled with our lives leaving us. what became of a forest, each tree resting, continuing to fall, us barefoot, carrying our boots in our hands. silica and colored minerals, forming perfect molds down to the energy of its life given up. My traveling companion was a 50-year-old hummingbird bark and eye-like knots in the wood. THESE TREES WERE AN EARLY FORM of conifer. Each with a Today was not silent. A dry gale blew in from the north, of a woman seeking a week off from work. Here she could At dusk, we strolled 50 yards apart, ducking and touching single, deep pike of a root ringed with smaller, lateral roots, hissing across hard knots of trees. We switched to the Black unravel. I was on the same mission, buried for months in a what we found, disk upon disk of fallen, broken trees, their they grew in soft, deep alluvial soils. Because there would have Forest in the north, where a higher concentration of manga- computer, my eyes fizzling from the weird light. You start hearts turned to fire, blood-red yellows and greens swirled been no distinct seasons at 16 degrees latitude, the trees have nese in the ground resulted in darker, less luminescent fossils. running on cellphone time, available at anyone’s fingertips. together, different minerals taking up residence in each fossil. no growth rings, hard to tell how long they may have lived. Some were coal-black and made of onyx, some a woody gray- Everything buzzes or dings, on-screen check marks letting the We were in the Rainbow Forest, named for its outlandish The fossilized bones of phytosaurs, crocodile-like reptiles, have brown. In steeply walled arroyos, they tumbled around each other end know when you’ve read it, when you’ve sent it, how coloration, on the south end of the park. We walked in big cir- been found here, too. These semi-aquatic predators would other like oil barrels. many words it contains, how many symbols, characters. News cles in the last light. Hundreds of trees had been downed, not have climbed atop the fallen trees, warming themselves under We put up our camp in the lee of a juniper, the fourth actual rushes in at light speed, calls answered in the order they are snapped off by a windstorm or a meteorite, but undermined the Triassic sun. When the trees fell and floated away, they tree we’d seen in two days. That night, after the bald white received. I interviewed Kirk Johnson, head of the Smithsonian and uprooted, fallen over. It is believed that these were river- grounded on the downstream faces of channel bars and were moon cleared the horizon of the Painted Desert, the wind fell National Museum of Natural History in Washington, D.C., and bank forests. Many still have roots intact, indicating that they buried as the bars migrated. away. Its last bushy tails could be heard sweeping through he said, “Time seems like it’s going faster. You can measure it fell into a river from eroding banks rather than being snapped No river exists here now. The only plants seem like urchins, arroyos and across hilltops. The quiet returned, the same kind in minutes and hours. It seems like history is always moving off in some violent event. Trees fell in and floated away. Where shadscales and snakeweed, the thinnest skim of life. We walked as behind a train, only much deeper. This silence is what you out ahead of us. But now we might be catching up with it.” petrified forests now lie was the place in this broad, shallow between Rubenesque horizons of rounded badlands, morning hear when 200 million years slip away, leaving you in the The silence we were looking for had something to do with river where flood-tumbled trees came to rest. Finer roots and sun warming our path. The fallen, solidified trees told us where motionless void of now.

6 AUGUST 2016 www.arizonahighways.com 7 N FEBRUARY, President Barack to Spanish and Mexican explorers — to Obama used his power under the its shores for 12,000 years. Remnants of Antiquities Act of 1906 to create these crisscrossing cultures are concen- three national monuments in Cali- trated southwest of Phoenix, where the fornia. Here in Arizona, proponents Gila River forms its “Great Bend.” are hoping that three more monu- Due to the area’s significant history, WHAT’S ments will be established, either many parties, including 13 Native Ameri- Iby the president’s pen or congressional can tribes, want it protected as an 84,000- approval. Like national parks, national acre national monument. Ancient canals monuments can be formed only on and artifacts scatter the landscape, as do federal land; however, they’re less thousands of geoglyphs and petroglyphs, restrictive than national parks, allowing often carved into hardened lava. At Sears existing recreational activities such as Point alone, Bureau of Land Management hunting and fishing to continue. surveyors counted more than 10,000 rock- NEW? art images. Several historic trails, includ- Arizona is home to more than GREATER GRAND CANYON ing a section of the Juan Bautista de Anza HERITAGE NATIONAL MONUMENT National Historic Trail, snake through 20 sites that are administered by Arizona Representative Raúl Grijalva the proposed monument. has fought for years to protect land sur- The effort is helmed by public-lands the National Park Service, and rounding Grand Canyon National Park, expert Rebecca Knuffke, who’s work- a vital watershed area peppered with ing with the National Trust for Historic several others that are run by the cliffs, grasslands and forests. In 2008, he Preservation. Grijalva created the monu- Bureau of Land Management. If introduced a bill to ban new uranium- ment’s 2013 legislation, which failed in mining claims on more than a million Congress but is being updated to reflect proponents get their way, there acres around the Canyon. Multiple public input. versions of that bill failed in Congress. could be three more. Then, in 2012, Interior Secretary Ken SEDONA VERDE VALLEY Salazar took matters into his own hands RED ROCK NATIONAL MONUMENT BY KAYLA FROST and enacted a 20-year moratorium on The stunning red-rock formations, for- new mines. In 2015, wanting permanent ests and creeks of the Sedona and Verde protection, Grijalva introduced an even Valley area in Central Arizona are world- more expansive bill that would make the renowned and popular — so much so area a national monument. that more than 3 million visitors every At 1.7 million acres, the monument year are wearing down trails and sen- would be the second-largest in the sitive habitats faster than they can be country (after Grand Staircase-Escalante maintained and preserved. Concerned National Monument) and would include citizens formed a committee in 2015 and sacred Native American archaeological are drafting management recommenda- sites, old-growth ponderosa pines and tions to make the region a 160,000-acre the Grand Canyon watershed. However, national monument that would perma- given the land’s economic potential, nently protect the land from overuse, opposition is strong. One vocal oppo- vandalism and private development. The nent, Arizona Representative Paul Gosar, monument would also preserve the Oak wrote in 2015 that the monument would Creek watershed and at least 800 archae- “stifle development” and “kill jobs.” ological sites, including the Palatki, Hon- Gosar also co-authored an amendment anki and V-Bar-V heritage sites. to the Antiquities Act that would have The committee — supported by a hurt the proposal’s chances, but the Sen- coalition of volunteers, stakeholders and ate rejected his amendment. non-profits — aims to get the monument designated via a presidential procla- GREAT BEND OF THE GILA mation, rather than through Congress. NATIONAL MONUMENT Progress is slow, and opponents have ral- Although it’s not as vigorous as it was, lied their own supporters. One of their The proposed Great Bend of the Gila National the Gila River once flowed fiercely, draw- concerns is that the monument would Monument would protect a section of the Gila River southwest of Phoenix. Elias Butler ing diverse cultures — everyone from prevent new businesses and housing the ancient Clovis and Hohokam people developments from breaking ground.

8 AUGUST 2016 www.arizonahighways.com 9 NATIONAL PARKS TIMELINE BY EMILY LIERLE

Some of the buildings at Tumacácori National Historical Park date to the 1700s, but the site didn’t receive federal protection until 1908. Mark Lipczynski

1892 1893 1906 1906 1907 1908 1908 1909 1915 1918 1919 1923 1924 1924 1930 1931 Casa Grand Montezuma Petrified Tonto Grand Tumacácori Navajo Walnut Casa Grand Pipe Spring Chiricahua Wupatki Sunset Canyon Grande Canyon Castle Forest (national Canyon (national (national Canyon Grande Canyon (national (national (national Crater de Chelly Ruins (forest reserve) (national (national monument) (national monument) monument) (national Ruins (national park) monument) monument) monument) (national (national (prehistoric monument) monument) monument) monument) (national monument) monument) and cultural monument) reserve)

1933 1937 1939 1941 1952 1960 1961 1962 1964 1965 1972 1972 1990 1990 1994 2000 Saguaro Organ Pipe Tuzigoot Coronado Coronado Fort Bowie Saguaro Petrified Lake Mead Hubbell Fort Bowie Glen Canyon Sunset Tumacácori Saguaro Grand (national Cactus (national (international (national (national (western Forest (national Trading Post (national (national Crater (national (national park) Canyon- monument) (national monument) memorial) memorial) historic district added (national park) recreation (national historic site) recreation Volcano historical park) Parashant monument) landmark) to national area) historic site) area) (“Volcano” (national monument) added to monument) name of national monument)

10 AUGUST 2016 www.arizonahighways.com 11 “I love all that you can see of Grand Canyon National Park from Lipan Point,” photographer Adam Schallau says. “This view includes the North and East Rims, the confluence of the Colorado and Little Colorado rivers, the Painted Desert and the distant Vermilion Cliffs. Above all, it shows the Canyon’s THIS connection with the mighty Colorado.” LAND IS YOUR LAND The National Park Service manages and protects more than 84 million acres in parks, monuments, battlefields, historic sites, preserves, seashores, lakeshores and more all across the United States. Here in Arizona, we have 22 national parks, extending from Coronado National Memorial in the extreme south to Pipe Spring National Monument way up north. BY KATHY MONTGOMERY

12 AUGUST 2016 www.arizonahighways.com 13 It was artist George Catlin who first imagined a “nation’s park” — a place to protect “man and beast, in all the wild and freshness of their nature’s beauty.” It took a while, but, eventually, the National Park Service was established. And this month, it turns 100. To mark that milestone, we interviewed rangers at each of the parks in Arizona. We wanted to hear, from the people on the ground, what makes the parks in our state unique and wor- thy of protection. Because there is some jurisdictional crossover in the management of the parks, we included only those units managed by the National Park Service. Therefore, you won’t see Agua Fria, Ironwood Forest, Sonoran Desert or Vermilion Cliffs national monuments, which are managed by the Bureau of Land Management; or Yuma Crossing National Heritage Area, which is managed by a nonprofit group. Also, we left out Hohokam Pima National Monument, a Park Service unit that’s closed to the public.

“A LOT OF PEOPLE make connections to this place,” says Deputy Superintendent Wilson Hunter, who grew up in Canyon de Chelly and still calls it home. Maybe it’s the layered canyon walls, monumental rocks and prehistoric pueblos, or maybe it’s the Canyon place’s spiritual history — many Navajo ceremonies originated at the canyon. “The Holy People are here,” de Chelly Hunter says. Navajo people still bring offerings and prayers. Some live in the canyon, tending to farms National and livestock. But most visitors never see the best the canyon has to offer — primitive areas, beyond the Monument roads, where motorized tours don’t go. Authorized Navajo guides offer walking and horseback tours of these parts. “It’s beautiful back there,” Hunter says. The canyon walls grow taller, there’s more wildlife and it’s quiet. There are unique cultural resources there, too, he says — “some great pictographs and petroglyphs a lot of people don’t see.”

A rainbow forms over Spider Rock at Canyon de Chelly National Monument. “This was as magical a moment as I’ve ever witnessed,” photographer George Stocking says. “I was just standing there in the rain, getting soaked, when the sun broke through. What luck!”

14 AUGUST 2016 www.arizonahighways.com 15 Casa Grande Ruins National Monument

CASA GRANDE REMAINS one of archaeology’s biggest cold cases, despite being the nation’s oldest archaeological preserve. That’s what Diane Garcia, an interpretive ranger, likes about it. “There’s a lot of mystery still,” she says. “People are always coming up with new ideas.” Thought at different times to be a fort, a granary, a temple or a watchtower for the complex canal system that surrounds it, the four-story house stands apart in the context of a large city and surrounding villages. “What we had here is more like Tucson,” Garcia says. “It was a city. For all we know, the ‘great house’ was a hotel for people who were passing through.” Formerly one in a series of “great houses,” only Casa Grande remains. When you listen, Garcia says, you can hear the owls and bats that nest inside it. “You start thinking you can hear other things — that you can hear the past.”

An awning protects the “great house” at Casa Grande Ruins National Monument, which Larry Lindahl photographed at sunset. “The ancient adobe came alive with color,” he says. “The heat became tempered, and sweet light began to glow. It was a perfect time to ponder the past.”

16 AUGUST 2016 www.arizonahighways.com 17 Chiricahua National Monument

SUZANNE MOODY, a visitors center ranger, talks enthusiasti- cally about Chiricahua National Monument’s biological diversity. Located in one of Arizona’s “sky islands,” the monument stands at the convergence of four ecosystems. “But the national monument is really about the crazy geology,” she says. Ice and water carved layers of 27 million-year- old welded volcanic ash into fantastical faces, animal shapes and balancing rocks. Though born of a violent eruption, it’s a quiet, peaceful area today, she says, with an “amazingly beautiful landscape and a forest of rock spires.” Two of Moody’s favorite spots are the Grotto, a cave-like passage through the rocks along the Echo Canyon Loop, and the summit of Sugarloaf Mountain, particularly at sunset. “The silence may feel like a real presence, interrupted by the occa- sional bird call or breeze,” she says. “Chiricahua’s many sur- prises and a spiritual feeling often create a very personal connection to the place.”

Chiricahua National Monument’s rhyolite hoodoos reach skyward. “Hiking the monument’s trails is pure pleasure,” photographer Mark Frank says. “A warm sunrise or sunset spotlight is a bonus for those of us who enjoy framing a photo.”

18 AUGUST 2016 www.arizonahighways.com 19 MANY COME TO Coronado so long ago. “It’s a bigger National Memorial for story than Vázquez de its unique ecosystem, its Coronado,” he says. “It’s a hiking trails — which bigger story than a group feature sweeping views of of people.” Coronado’s land Francisco Vázquez de expedition marked the Coronado Coronado likely crossed beginning of many things, during his 16th century he says, including the National search for cities of gold fusion of cultures we iden- — and its undeveloped tify with the Southwest. Memorial limestone cave with clas- New exhibits at the sic formations. The natural visitors center help bring history is amazing, ranger that home in an engag- Christopher Bentley ing way, with chain mail admits. But he also wants to try on, a tortilla press people to understand why to play with and spices, the memorial exists and introduced by the Spanish, why we should remember that became hallmarks of something that happened Southwestern cuisine.

LEFT: Morning glories bloom at Coronado “ONE OF THE MOST National Memorial beneath the southern end unique things about the troops had erected a makeshift for- of the Huachuca Mountains. “Coronado is one this park is that you can’t just drive up,” tress they called Fort Bowie; later, they of the lesser-known national park units, so says Larry Ludwig, a park historian. built a more substantial fort. Nature sometimes I have the whole place to myself,” “You have that mile-and-a-half walk has reclaimed much of the structures, photographer Dave Bly says. “Photographing around sunrise or sunset is so quiet and Fort Bowie in. It’s kind of a walk through history.” whose adobe walls appear to melt into peaceful.” That walk includes an old Butterfield the surrounding grasslands. Only the ABOVE: To make this photo of the weathered National stage station, the ruins of two forts graveyard has been partly restored. adobe walls of Fort Bowie National Historic and Apache Pass, where young, inex- Grave markers include a Medal of Honor Site, photographer George Stocking visited during monsoon season — which may have Historic Site perienced Lieutenant George Bascom recipient and one of Geronimo’s sons. been a bad idea. “At one point, lightning ignited the Apache Wars in 1861. In “It’s neat how all of this is spread along struck about 50 yards behind me and I saw 1862, Apaches ambushed members of the trail,” Ludwig says. “You couldn’t my shadow from the flash in front of me,” he says. “At that point, I was pretty sure I was California-based infantry and cavalry have designed it better.” going to die, but I got my images.” regiments in the pass. Within weeks,

20 AUGUST 2016 www.arizonahighways.com 21 GLEN CANYON IS a landscape of stories, of human history. “Once you learn some a love for the Colorado River. So it’s not still wild in many ways, with its own The layered buttes of Glen Canyon National Recreation Area rise from the tranquil Lake Glen Canyon says Cynthia Sequanna, an interpretive of these stories, you start developing an surprising that one of her favorite places rich stories.” Sequanna encourages Powell. “The lake reflects the moods of the sky,” ranger. There are stories about pale- intimate relationship with this place,” in this recreation area is the stretch visitors to learn these stories and carry photographer George Stocking says. “I’m drawn National ontology and geology that reveal Glen she says. Sequanna grew up at the of river between Lees Ferry and Glen them on. Most importantly, she urges by its quiet stillness and the view of Navajo Canyon’s past, stories about plants and Grand Canyon, Glen Canyon’s down- Canyon Dam. “It’s a peaceful, beautiful people to create their own stories and Mountain in the distance.” Recreation Area animals, and stories about 10,000 years stream neighbor, where she developed place,” she says, “a land of extremes, find their place in the landscape.

22 AUGUST 2016 www.arizonahighways.com 23 Grand Canyon National Park

BRIAN GATLIN SPENT a lot of time exploring Colorado’s mountains and Utah’s deserts before visiting the Grand Canyon, but his first view of the Canyon blew away anything he’d ever seen. After a couple of visits, he knew he needed to figure out a way to be there for more than a week at a time. In 2002, he came back as a seasonal ranger, and now he supervises interpretation on the east side of the park, where visitors often drive past exceptional vistas such as Desert View and Lipan Point without stopping. “It’s a little farther away from the main center of visitation, which gives it a little more of a quiet feel,” Gatlin says. “I think that gives the Canyon an extra opportunity to speak to you.” But people should be careful when they visit, he says. “They might end up like me and find themselves unable to leave.”

Toroweap Overlook, on the west side of Grand Canyon National Park, offers a view of the Colorado River 3,000 feet below. “I like shooting at Toroweap because of the exhilaration of heights,” photographer David Muench says. “The sandstone rims give it a sense of place. I’ve enjoyed this point since making my first photograph of it in the 1960s.”

24 AUGUST 2016 www.arizonahighways.com 25 NEW

“WHEN I COME TO WORK, it takes me implements to artwork and oral histo- back in time,” Kathy Tabaha says. As ries, which Tabaha collects and tran- a girl, the park ranger came with her scribes. Trading continues, as it has mother to sell rugs, just as Tabaha’s for more than 100 years. “That makes Hubbell great-grandmother had. Tabaha’s it so special and so unique,” Tabaha grandparents hauled food for Hubbell says. Only today, the trader is Navajo. Trading Post sheepherders, and her great-grand- Tabaha expects to retire from Hubbell, father was a Hubbell freighter; John as her uncle and cousin have. And with National Lorenzo Hubbell named him Lame nearly 30 years at the trading post, she Jim after a wagon accident left him also has become part of its history. Historic Site with a limp. Tabaha’s grandmother had a name for Hubbell: Naakaii Sání, BELOW: Hubbell Trading Post National Historic Site or “Old Mexican.” Now, Tabaha cares includes the former home of the Hubbell family. for the trading post’s museum col- “The interior is rich in color and texture, but quite dark,” photographer George H.H. Huey says. “My lection, which includes everything challenge was to light the room without the result from archaeological artifacts and farm appearing artificial.”

“THIS COUNTRY HAS its special charms,” summer, I got to watch the Milky Way, says Greg Woodall, an archaeological in all its glory, shifting across the sky.” technician for the monument. “There And, while remote, the park protects are no towns out there, there are no cit- a peopled landscape. “I have a million Grand Canyon- ies, there are no power lines. It’s just big, stories about the families that have lived wide-open space.” Jointly managed by there,” Woodall says. “Paiute families, Parashant the Park Service and the Bureau of Land ranching families, old miners. Part of Management, the monument, north of what we try to do at the monument is National the Grand Canyon, includes more than tell those stories.” a million acres of land so remote that

Monument cellphones don’t work, roads aren’t ABOVE: Sunset lights the ribbons of cliffs below paved, and informed travelers carry Kelly Point at Grand Canyon-Parashant National two spare tires. It also offers a pristine Monument. “Like many Grand Canyon vistas, there’s a sense of vastness there that’s too grand to night sky. “I camp out lots of nights, and comprehend,” photographer Jack Dykinga says. “Our it’s spectacular,” Woodall says. “Last minds simplify by seeing it as two-dimensional.”

26 AUGUST 2016 www.arizonahighways.com 27 MARK HNAT BELIEVES the diversity at canyoneering and backcountry driving. about that is you slow down the pace,” Sunset paints the buttes and calm water of Lake Mead National Recreation Area. “The lake is so vast and offers so many areas to Lake Mead Lake Mead National Recreation Area But Hnat’s favorite area is Lake Mohave, says Hnat, the park’s deputy chief ranger. explore that it’s easy to find perfect solitude there,” photographer makes it unique in the Park Service. between Hoover Dam and Willow Motorized boats are banned two days a Nick Berezenko says, “but a storm that grants a beautiful sunset National Katherine Landing offers the stereotypi- Beach. Though technically a lake, the week, making it easier to spot bighorn can also quickly whip up some furious waves.” cal lake experience, with motorboats dammed stretch of the Colorado River sheep and other wildlife. Side canyons — Recreation and Jet Skis, while those who want to passing through Black Canyon is river- with thermal pools, warm waterfalls and avoid crowds head for Temple Bar. In esque, with narrow passages and high a cave that glows like a jewel — provide Area between lie spots for fishing, hiking, canyon walls. “The thing that’s nice highlights along the way.

28 AUGUST 2016 www.arizonahighways.com 29 “NO MATTER HOW many times I have rock shelters, pueblo ruins and a lush, walked down the trail at Montezuma shaded trail. Worthington watched two Castle, I am always stunned at the otters emerge from behind a large syca- view and in awe of the ingenuity of more one day at the trail to the well’s Montezuma the people who lived there,” says Anne outlet. They headed down the trail just Worthington, a park guide. In 1896, like any other visitor, then dived into Castle National soldiers from Fort Verde discovered the irrigation ditch and floated away. the ancient cliff dwellings near Beaver Monument Creek. Assuming Aztecs built them, the soldiers named the ruins for the ancient ABOVE: In direct sunlight, the white cliffs at Montezuma Castle National Monument can ruler. Today, we know the ancient cul- be almost blinding. “I moved far enough to my ture that archaeologists call the Sinagua left to allow branches and leaves to filter out built the 20-room “castle,” one of the some of the brightest light,” photographer best-preserved cliff dwellings in North George H.H. Huey says. “That allowed the ruin to become the visual center of attention.” America and one of the nation’s first RIGHT: “When I first saw Montezuma Castle national monuments. The site includes in person, I was astonished by how high a detached section called Montezuma above the ground it sits,” photographer Mark Well, added to the monument in 1947. Lipczynski says. “It makes me wonder about the people who lived there. In this shot, I tried It’s named for a large sinkhole fed by to emphasize the height by shooting from a underwater springs, with a pit house, low vantage point.”

30 AUGUST 2016 www.arizonahighways.com 31 Navajo National Monument

PART OF WHAT makes Navajo National Monument special to lead ranger Curlinda Mitchell is the quiet, pristine canyon that preserves not only the area’s cultural history, but also its natural history, including an ancient forest that’s a relic of the Ice Age. Douglas firs, birches and aspens normally found at much higher elevations grow in the canyon, where temperatures stay in the mid-70s when it’s 90 degrees on the rim. The monument includes three non-contiguous sites on the Navajo Nation, each contain- ing the remains of Ancestral Puebloan villages. “We are unique because we have a whole staff of local Native interpret- ers,” Mitchell says. “We all feel a connection to the site.” She notes that after the Puebloan people abandoned these sites, the Navajos occupied the area but left the sites undisturbed for hundreds of years. Anglo explorers found storage areas, sandals and tools just as they were left, Mitchell says. The Navajo people became, in that sense, the sites’ first caretakers.

An overlook at Navajo National Monument offers a view of Betatakin Ruin, one of three major cliff dwellings at the monument. “To me, this is the heartland of the Ancestral Puebloans,” photographer David Muench says. “As a photographer, the change of seasons has always drawn me here, because it can always surprise me with different moods.”

32 AUGUST 2016 33 Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument

ORGAN PIPE took Scott Babinowich by surprise. The supervisory ranger and East Coast native imagined the desert as hot, dry and sandy. What he found at Organ Pipe was lush, full of life and, in a sense, undiscov- ered. “You could head out into the park and find a cool rock or a bizarre-looking cactus that even the ecologist who had been here for 20 years hadn’t seen,” he says. Quitobaquito Springs, near the Mexican border, was another surprise. “You’re driving for 40 minutes in one of the hottest parts of the park,” Babinowich says. “It’s kind of sandy. There are [cactuses], but not a lot of trees. And in the middle of that, you find a 2-acre pond” that supports birds such as the cara- cara, an endangered fish found nowhere else and 11,000 years of human history. To Babinowich, Quitobaquito provides a snapshot of everything unique about the monument. “It just defies your expectations,” he says.

Brittlebush blooms surround the name sakes of Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument. “I love the rugged landscape at Organ Pipe, particularly when it’s softened by the flowers and plant life during a good spring,” photographer Laurence Parent says. “I had a great sky that morning.”

34 AUGUST 2016 www.arizonahighways.com 35 Petrified Forest National Park

IT’S NO SURPRISE that paleon tologist Bill Parker loves the past. And Petrified Forest National Park has a lot to love, with one of the richest late-Triassic fossil records in the world. Nearly 90 species of plants and animals were first discovered in the park’s fossils, and discoveries continue. “Every time we go out, we pretty much find something new,” Parker says. But Petrified Forest has also been a national park for 110 years, which feeds Parker’s alter ego of park historian. He’s fascinated by how people have experienced the park over time, traveling by wagon over a bumpy Territorial road, in finned cars along Route 66 and by interstate. The park preserves a lot of that history, too, including a stretch of the “Mother Road.” “There’s just a ton of history here,” he says. “History of the park itself. That’s one of the things I really enjoy sharing with people.”

Last light falls on the Painted Desert behind the ancient trees of Petrified Forest National Park. “The backcountry area of the park is a must-see for visitors,” photographer Robert Jasany says. “The combination of petrified wood and a backdrop of blue and purple hills leaves a lasting impression.”

36 AUGUST 2016 www.arizonahighways.com 37 Pipe Spring National Monument

PEOPLE COME to Pipe Spring expecting only to learn about the cultures the monument’s name- sake water source sustained, primarily Ancestral Puebloans, Kaibab Paiutes and Mormon pioneers, who built a fort over the spring. But when visitors ask Paula Ogden-Muse, the chief of interpretation, what the place is about, she says it’s about the creatures, too. “We’re a pearl in a string of pearls” that includes surrounding tribal and federal lands, she says. And it’s the birds, the monarch butterflies, the 18 species of bats and the desert bighorn sheep that string those pearls together. Birds and pollinators flock to the monument’s demonstration garden, planted with sunflowers that acknowledge the “old ones”; corn and beans, cultivated by the Paiutes; and sorghum and melons, grown by homesteaders. Orioles, coyotes and foxes feast on grapes from a 100-year-old vine. Visitors nibble peas and beans in summer or take home a pumpkin in the fall.

Photographer Nick Berezenko appreciates Pipe Spring National Monument’s immaculately restored buildings and native flower species. “I also like the ranger demonstrations of corn growing, crocheting and quilting, along with local ranchers telling colorful campfire tales,” he says.

38 AUGUST 2016 www.arizonahighways.com 39 Saguaro National Park

CAROLYN HARPER LOVES the diversity of Saguaro National Park, which rises from classic Sonoran Desert to forested peaks. But the Phoenix native came to the park particularly for the desert. Harper, a next-generation ranger, enjoys educating people while getting their hands dirty, which is why she loves her work on this year’s centennial saguaro survey. Tohono O’odham tribal members consider the famously anthropomorphic cactuses to be their ancestors, and, like people, the cactuses are counted in a census every 10 years to monitor the health of the population. This year’s off-schedule census allows citizen scientists, who focus on establishment of young saguaros, to join park staff in research during the Park Service’s 100th birthday celebration. The census has taken Harper to some special areas of the park, such as the King Canyon Trail, a quiet place filled with chattering Gambel’s quail and early-spring poppies. “It’s just a really wonderful place to experience the desert as it is,” she says.

Fog shrouds the iconic saguaros of Saguaro National Park. “The park offers a variety of photo opportunities,” photographer Michael Jennings says. “The rugged landscape, unique vegetation and dramatic skies provide spectacular and ever-changing views.”

40 AUGUST 2016 www.arizonahighways.com 41 There are 84 million acres of cherished landscapes, ecosystems, and historic sites in America’s over 400 national parks—and they all belong to you.

From the Grand Canyon to Yellowstone, Gettysburg to Golden Gate, our national parks would not exist without the dedication, foresight, and generosity of Americans throughout history.

Now it’s our turn to ensure their future. Join us. nationalparks.org

SUNSET CRATER FIGURES learned the 1,000-foot-tall origins. “The science of den- Sunset Crater prominently in the tales cinder cone might be dyna- drochronology was discov- of many Native American mited, he galvanized the ered in Flagstaff, in 1904, by Volcano tribes, including a Hopi ori- community in a preserva- A.E. Douglass,” Clark says. gin story. The monument has tion effort that ended with “So it seems very fitting.” National its own origin story, one that Sunset Crater’s designation Hilary Clark, an interpretive as a national monument. Monument ranger, finds compelling. In Colton discovered Sinaguan- Photographer Tom Danielsen, a the late 1920s, film crews style pit houses buried longtime Arizona Highways contributor, died in 2015. His widow, scouted the volcano as a pos- beneath the cinders in 1930. Barbara, says this shot of Sunset sible setting for the movie The archaeologist was able Crater was one of his favorites. “He Avalanche, based on a Zane to more accurately date the had to do quite a bit of climbing Grey novel. When Museum eruption by analyzing tree and scrambling to find the perfect vantage point,” she says. “He liked of Northern Arizona co- rings at these sites, using a that it illustrates the turbulent founder Harold S. Colton technique that also has local history of volcanism in Arizona.”

GRAND CANYON NATIONAL PARK 42 AUGUST 2016 “PEOPLE OFTEN COMMENT on the peacefulness of the site and the feeling of the presence of history,” says Anita Badertscher of Tumacácori, one of three missions the park protects. “There’s something about seeing the bare bones of the structures that hits people.” That history is complicated and layered, and there are elements Tumacácori of it everywhere: an orchard planted with heritage fruit trees, National a garden designed in the 1930s, tortilla makers and other cultural Historical demonstrations during the park’s peak season. Tumacácori also Park protects a mile of riparian habitat along the Santa Cruz River. But Badertscher’s favorite place is the church at Tumacácori, particularly when she’s alone. “The light when it’s closing time is beautiful,” the chief of interpretation says. “I like to sing in that space. The dome helps create good acoustics, and if you can sing at all, it sounds beautiful.”

AS AN ARCHAEOLOGIST, Duane Hubbard And unlike at many parks, visitors can ABOVE: Larry Lindahl got a rare opportunity to photograph this Tonto National Tonto worked on many of the nearly 100 still walk into these 700-year-old ruins. Monument cliff dwelling at sunrise. “Our archaeological sites at Tonto, one of the “You can have that experience, that feel- tripods were set up, but the sky didn’t look National oldest monuments in the Park Service ing, because of how well preserved they promising,” Lindahl says. “Finally, a hint and the only one devoted to the Salado are,” Hubbard says. “The rooms are of color began to glow on the belly of the clouds. In that moment, I wondered about Monument people. So he feels connected to the intact to actually see how people built the ancient dwellers watching and waiting sites, particularly when he sees the fin- these sites.” Now, as the monument’s for sunrise.” gerprints of the builders, including chil- superintendent, Hubbard stays con- RIGHT: At sunrise, trees cast shadows on dren’s prints, in the plaster. “I have two nected by regularly hiking to the cliff the walls of one of the old missions at Tumacácori National Historical Park, where kids of my own, and I think that’s a per- dwellings that overlook the monument. photographer Tom Daniel camped during a sonal connection,” he says. Most of the It reminds him, he says, why he comes special event. “In the evening, an overcast sites are closed to protect them, but two to work every day. sky and flat light made photography impossible,” he says. “The morning brought well-preserved dwellings remain open. a dramatic storm and glorious light.”

44 AUGUST 2016 www.arizonahighways.com 45 “ONE OF THE THINGS I find interesting illuminates the past. “The prehistory we “A visit to Tuzigoot National Monument is a must,” photo grapher Nick Berezenko says, “but I also recommend hiking Tuzigoot about this place is a human history that, have everywhere, but very few places the trail along the Verde River to Dead Horse Ranch State every day, surrounds you,” says Skip have a continuity,” Larson says. One fact Park, where this photo was made. Listening to birdsong National Larson of Tuzigoot, which protects a Larson finds telling is that the crews and hearing the river beneath the cottonwoods, you get a sense of life spent close to nature.” Sinaguan pueblo village that so exem- working on the excavation were seg- Monument plifies its era that the period is called regated as they were for mining opera- the Tuzigoot Phase. “Every day, you tions, with separate crews, foremen and have a connection to the history,” the living quarters for Anglos, Mexicans park guide says. That history includes and Apaches, who lived in wickiups on homesteaders, miners and Native the far side of the river. Every new story, Americans, whose descendants show up Larson says, “adds a thread to the tap- on a regular basis with information that estry of the area.”

46 AUGUST 2016 www.arizonahighways.com 47 Walnut Canyon National Monument

AS AN INTERN, Steven Rossi lived on the edge of Walnut Canyon in housing the Civilian Conservation Corps built. He and his wife spent a lot of time listening to birdsong echo off the canyon walls and watching the seasons turn. Living there, seeing the dwellings of the ancient people and telling their stories gave him a deep apprecia- tion for the ancients’ ability to create a community in the canyon for 200 years. “I really started to feel part of it,” says Rossi, the park’s education coordina- tor. He also felt a connection to the young men of the CCC who helped build the park during the Great Depression. Now, as a ranger, he carries that work for- ward. Rossi still comes to Walnut Canyon when he wants to escape the stresses of modern life. “It’s something that is very peaceful to me,” he says. “It’s like going back in time. It’s like walking back into history.”

Wildflowers grow near one of the ancient cliff dwellings at Walnut Canyon National Monument. “There’s something intimate and revealing about being able to actually walk into the ruins and touch the metates that corn was ground on more than 800 years ago,” photographer Nick Berezenko says.

48 AUGUST 2016 www.arizonahighways.com 49 Wupatki National Monument

“WUPATKI FEELS LIKE a wild place,” says Robert Wallace, an interpretive park ranger. “The wide-open spaces, distant horizons and variety of rocks — like the bones of the Earth — make the place unique.” That allows for spectacular, unobstructed views of sunrise and sunset, especially during guided overnight backcountry hikes. These and other discovery hikes offer a wider view of the park and a greater understanding of the many cultures that lived and gathered at Wupatki over thousands of years. Wallace gets inspiration from these ancient people who lived simply and successfully. They give him hope for himself and for people in general. “The Puebloans obtained everything they needed from the land: their food, their water, their building materials,” he says. “Yet they had a much lighter impact on the natural world than we do today. We can learn a lot from them about reducing our impact and getting by with less.”

“To me, Wupatki National Monument is kind of like an ancient ghost town,” photographer George Stocking says. “Wukoki Pueblo draws my attention more than the others — it’s isolated and windswept, like a freighter battling an endless wind. I can’t turn my camera away.”

50 AUGUST 2016 www.arizonahighways.com 51 Canyon de Chelly Entrance Fees: $5 for ages 13.5 miles to Coronado Memorial Grand Canyon Drive) in St. George, Utah, to Entrance Fees: None for the National Monument [p.14] 16 and older, free for younger Road. Turn right (south) onto National Park [p. 24] obtain a map and learn about trading post; tours of the Hubbell Year Designated: 1931 children Coronado Memorial Road, which Year Designated: 1893 (forest weather forecasts and road home are $2 per person for ages Area: 83,840 acres Visitors Center Hours: 9 a.m. to turns into Montezuma Canyon reserve), 1908 (national monu- conditions. From there, go east 16 and older. Wilderness Acreage: None 5 p.m. Road, and continue 5 miles to ment), 1919 (national park) on Riverside Drive for 1.3 miles, Visitors Center Hours: 8 a.m. to Visitors in 2015: 813,686 Lodging: No the memorial entrance. Area: 1.22 million acres turn right (south) onto River 5 or 6 p.m., depending on the Average Elevation: 5,500 feet Camping: No Entrance Fees: None Wilderness Acreage: None Road and continue 6.7 miles to season When to Visit: Spring through fall Dogs Allowed: Yes (on a leash) Visitors Center Hours: 8 a.m. to Visitors in 2015: 5,520,736 the Arizona-Utah border. From Lodging: No Directions: From Holbrook, go Scenic Drives: No 4 p.m. Glen Canyon National Average Elevation: 7,000 feet there, Bureau of Land Manage- Camping: No east on Interstate 40 for 46 miles Wildlife Viewing: Yes Lodging: No Recreation Area [p. 22] (South Rim), 8,000 feet (North ment Road 1069 leads south Dogs Allowed: Yes (on a leash), National to U.S. Route 191 (Exit 333). Ranger Programs: Yes Camping: No Year Designated: 1972 Rim) to several monument access but only in parking lot Turn left (north) onto U.S.191 Telephone: 520-723-3172 Dogs Allowed: Yes (on a leash), Area: 1.25 million acres (Arizona When to Visit: Year-round points. For other routes, consult Scenic Drives: No and continue 74 miles to Indian Website: www.nps.gov/cagr but only where cars may go and and Utah) Directions (South Rim): From the staff at the information center. Wildlife Viewing: No Parks Route 7. Turn right onto on the Crest Trail Wilderness Acreage: None; how- Flagstaff, go northwest on U.S. The BLM recommends you use a Ranger Programs: Yes IR 7 and continue 2.7 miles to Scenic Drives: Yes ever, 588,855 acres have been Route 180 for 49 miles to State high-clearance vehicle and take Telephone: 928-755-3475 (visitors the monument visitors center. Wildlife Viewing: Yes proposed as the Glen Canyon Route 64. Turn right (north) onto plenty of water, food, extra gaso- center), 928-755-3254 (trading Guide Entrance Fees: None for overlooks Ranger Programs: Yes, approxi- Wilderness and are managed as SR 64 and continue 24 miles to line and at least two spare tires. post) or White House Trail; backcoun- mately January through May a wilderness area. the park entrance station. Entrance Fees: None Website: www.nps.gov/hutr try hikes and horseback rides Telephone: 520-366-5515 Visitors in 2015: 2,495,093 Directions (North Rim): From Visitors Center Hours: 8 a.m. to Facebook: /Hubbell.Trading.Post. require hiring a Navajo guide. Website: www.nps.gov/coro Average Elevation: 3,704 feet Flagstaff, go north on U.S. Route 5 p.m. Mondays through Fridays, NHS Visitors Center Hours: 8 a.m. to Facebook: /coronadonational When to Visit: Year-round 89 for 110 miles to U.S. Route 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. Saturdays Twitter: @HubbellTP 5 p.m. Note that the monument memorial Directions (to Carl Hayden Visitor 89A. Turn left onto U.S. 89A and (Public Lands Information Center observes daylight saving time. Chiricahua National Center at Glen Canyon Dam): From continue 55 miles to State Route in St. George, Utah) Lake Mead National Lodging: Yes, at Thunderbird Monument [p.18] Fort Bowie National Page, go north on U.S. Route 89 67 (North Rim Parkway). Turn Lodging: No Recreation Area [p. 28] Lodge; 928-674-5842, www. Year Designated: 1924 Historic Site [p. 21] for 2.5 miles to the Carl Hayden left onto SR 67 and continue Camping: Yes, in the backcoun- Year Designated: 1964 thunderbirdlodge.com Area: 12,025 acres Year Designated: 1960 (national Visitor Center, on the right. 31 miles to the park entrance try; 435-688-3200 Area: 1.5 million acres (Arizona Camping: Yes, at Cottonwood Wilderness Acreage: 10,462 acres historic landmark), 1972 (national Directions (to Lees Ferry): From station. Dogs Allowed: Yes (on a leash), and Nevada) Campground; 928-674-2106 Visitors in 2015: 56,960 historic site) Page, go south on U.S. Route Entrance Fees: $30 per private but only in the Park Service por- Wilderness Acreage: 185,000 Dogs Allowed: Yes (on a leash), Average Elevation: 6,270 feet Area: 999 acres 89 for 23 miles to U.S. Route vehicle, $15 per cyclist or tion of the monument acres but only at overlooks, camp- When to Visit: Spring and fall Wilderness Acreage: None 89A. Turn right onto U.S. 89A pedestrian Scenic Drives: Yes Visitors in 2015: 7,56 3,176 ground and parking lots Directions: From Willcox, go east Visitors in 2015: 7,76 0 and continue 14.5 miles to Lees Visitors Center Hours: 8 a.m. to Wildlife Viewing: Yes Average Elevation: 641 feet (Lake Scenic Drives: Yes on State Route 186 for 31 miles Average Elevation: 4,954 feet Ferry Road, just past the Navajo 5 p.m. Ranger Programs: No Mohave), 1,083 feet (Lake Mead) Wildlife Viewing: Yes to State Route 181. Turn left (east) When to Visit: Spring and fall Bridge Interpretive Center. Turn Lodging: Yes, at several lodges; Telephone: 435-688-3200 (Public When to Visit: Year-round Ranger Programs: Yes onto SR 181 and continue 4 miles Directions: From Willcox, go east right onto Lees Ferry Road and 888-297-2757, www.grand Lands Information Center in St. Directions: From Kingman, go Telephone: 928-674-5500 to the monument entrance. on Interstate 10 for 23 miles to continue approximately 4.5 miles canyonlodges.com/lodging George, Utah) northwest on U.S. Route 93 Website: www.nps.gov/cach Entrance Fees: None Bowie (Exit 362). Continue onto to Lees Ferry. Camping: Yes, at three camp- Website: www.nps.gov/para for 75 miles (you’ll cross into Visitors Center Hours: 8:30 a.m. to the I-10 business route and go Entrance Fees: $25 per private grounds; 877-444-6777, www. Facebook: /ParashantNPS Nevada) to the recreation area’s Casa Grande Ruins 4:30 p.m. 2 miles to Apache Pass Road. vehicle, $12 per cyclist or recreation.gov visitors center. Entrance stations National Monument [p.16] Lodging: No Turn right (south) onto Apache pedestrian Dogs Allowed: Yes (on a leash) are located here and at other Year Designated: 1892 (prehis- Camping: Yes, at Bonita Canyon Pass Road and continue 13 Visitors Center Hours: The Carl Scenic Drives: Yes locations around the lake. toric and cultural reserve), 1918 Campground; 877-444-6777 miles (the last mile is unpaved) to Hayden Visitor Center is open Wildlife Viewing: Yes Entrance Fees: $20 per private (national monument) Dogs Allowed: Yes (on a leash), the Fort Bowie Trailhead. From from 8 a.m. to between 4 and Ranger Programs: Yes vehicle, $10 per cyclist or Area: 473 acres but only where cars may go there, it’s a moderate 3-mile 6 p.m., depending on the season. Telephone: 928-638-7888 pedestrian Wilderness Acreage: None Scenic Drives: Yes (round-trip) hike to the site. The Navajo Bridge Interpretive Website: www.nps.gov/grca Visitors Center Hours: 9 a.m. to Visitors in 2015: 72,606 Wildlife Viewing: Yes Entrance Fees: None Center is open from 9 a.m. to Facebook: /grandcanyonnational 4:30 p.m. Average Elevation: 1,424 feet Ranger Programs: Yes Visitors Center Hours: 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. April through October. park Lodging: Yes, at three resorts; When to Visit: October through Telephone: 520-824-3560 4 p.m. Lodging: Yes, at Lake Powell Twitter: @GrandCanyonNPS Hubbell Trading Post www.nps.gov/lake/planyourvisit/ March Website: www.nps.gov/chir Lodging: No Resort; 800-528-6154, www. Instagram: @GrandCanyonNPS National Historic Site [p. 27] lodging.htm Directions: From Phoenix, go Facebook: /ChiricahuaNational Camping: No lakepowell.com Year Designated: 1965 Camping: Yes, at several camp- southeast on Interstate 10 for Monument Dogs Allowed: Yes (on a leash) Camping: Yes, at developed and Grand Canyon-Parashant Area: 160 acres grounds; 702-293-8990, www. 36 miles to State Route 387. Scenic Drives: No primitive sites; www.nps.gov/ National Monument [p. 26] Wilderness Acreage: None nps.gov/lake/planyourvisit/ Turn left (east) onto SR 387 and Coronado National Wildlife Viewing: Yes glca/planyourvisit/camping.htm Year Designated: 2000 Visitors in 2015: 66,324 campgrounds.htm continue 7.5 miles to State Route Memorial [p.20] Ranger Programs: Yes, seasonally Dogs Allowed: Yes (on a leash), Area: 1.05 million acres Average Elevation: 6,332 feet Dogs Allowed: Yes (on a leash) 87. Turn right onto SR 87 and Year Designated: 1941 (interna- Telephone: 520-847-2500 but only in certain areas; visit Wilderness Acreage: 147,46 0 When to Visit: Year-round Scenic Drives: Yes continue 7 miles to Arizona Bou- tional memorial), 1952 (national Website: www.nps.gov/fobo www.nps.gov/glca/planyourvisit/ acres Directions: From Flagstaff, go Wildlife Viewing: Yes levard. Turn right onto Arizona memorial) Facebook: /FortBowieNational pets.htm for details. Visitors in 2015: 18,000 (approxi- east on Interstate 40 for 134 miles Ranger Programs: Yes Boulevard and continue 0.5 miles Area: 4,830 acres HistoricSite Scenic Drives: Yes mate) to U.S. Route 191. Turn left (north) Telephone: 702-293-8906 (park to the monument entrance, on Wilderness Acreage: None Wildlife Viewing: Yes Average Elevation: 1,600 feet onto U.S. 191 and continue information), 702-293-8990 (visi- the right. Visitors in 2015: 132,584 Ranger Programs: Yes, May (Lower Grand Wash) to 8,028 38 miles to State Route 264. Turn tors center) Average Elevation: 5,459 feet through October feet (Mount Trumbull) left onto SR 264 and continue Website: www.nps.gov/lake When to Visit: Fall through spring Telephone: 928-608-6200 When to Visit: Spring and fall 0.5 miles to the site entrance, on Facebook: /lakemeadnps Directions: From Sierra Vista, go Website: www.nps.gov/glca Directions: Before you attempt the left. Twitter: @LakeMeadNRA south on State Route 92 for Facebook: /glencanyonnra to visit this remote monument, Instagram: @lakemeadnps go to the Public Lands Informa- tion Center (345 E. Riverside

52 AUGUST 2016 www.arizonahighways.com 53 Montezuma Castle Entrance Fees: None Visitors Center Hours: 8 a.m. to Camping: Yes, in the backcoun- Entrance Fees: $5 for ages Tuzigoot National Visitors Center Hours: 8 or 9 a.m. National Monument [p. 30] Visitors Center Hours: 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. mid-May through August, try; 520-733-5153, www.nps. 16 and older, free for younger Monument [p. 46] to 5 p.m., depending on the Year Designated: 1906 5:30 p.m. mid-May to mid- 8:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. Septem- gov/sagu/planyourvisit/permits children Year Designated: 1939 season Area: 1,016 acres September, 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. ber though mid-May andreservations.htm Visitors Center Hours: 8 a.m. to Area: 812 acres Lodging: No Wilderness Acreage: None other times of year. Note that the Lodging: No Dogs Allowed: Yes (on a leash), 5 p.m. Wilderness Acreage: None Camping: No Visitors in 2015: 416,635 monument observes daylight Camping: No but only on roadways, picnic Lodging: No Visitors in 2015: 95,065 Dogs Allowed: Yes (on a leash), Average Elevation: 3,245 feet saving time. Dogs Allowed: Yes (on a leash), areas and paved trails Camping: No Average Elevation: 3,396 feet but only in parking lot When to Visit: Year-round Lodging: No but not in historic structures or Scenic Drives: Yes Dogs Allowed: Yes (on a leash), When to Visit: Year-round Scenic Drives: No Directions: From Flagstaff, go Camping: Yes, at two camp- Petrified Forest on trails Wildlife Viewing: Yes but only on the lower cliff-dwell- Directions: From Flagstaff, go Wildlife Viewing: Yes south on Interstate 17 for grounds; 928-672-2700 National Park [p. 36] Scenic Drives: No Ranger Programs: Yes ing trail, not in the dwelling itself south on Interstate 17 for Ranger Programs: Yes 49.5 miles to Middle Verde Road Dogs Allowed: Yes (on a leash), Year Designated: 1906 (national Wildlife Viewing: Yes Telephone: 520-733-5153 (Rincon Scenic Drives: No 52 miles to State Route 260 Telephone: 928-526-3367 (Exit 289). Turn left (east) onto but only in parking and camp- monument), 1962 (national park) Ranger Programs: Yes Mountain District), 520-733-5158 Wildlife Viewing: Yes (Exit 287). Turn right (west) onto Website: www.nps.gov/waca Middle Verde Road and continue ground areas Area: 221,416 acres Telephone: 928-643-7105 (Tucson Mountain District) Ranger Programs: Yes SR 260 and continue 12 miles Facebook: /WalnutCanyonNPS 0.5 miles to Montezuma Castle Scenic Drives: No Wilderness Acreage: 52,000 acres Website: www.nps.gov/pisp Website: www.nps.gov/sagu Telephone: 928-467-2241 to State Route 89A in Cotton- Road. Turn left onto Montezuma Wildlife Viewing: Yes Visitors in 2015: 793,225 Facebook: /PipeSpringNPS Facebook: /saguaronationalpark Website: www.nps.gov/tont wood. Turn left onto SR 89A, Castle Road and continue Ranger Programs: Yes, in summer Average Elevation: 5,325 feet Twitter: @PipeSpringNPS Twitter: @SaguaroNPS Instagram: @tontonps which turns into Historic Route 2.1 miles to the monument visi- Telephone: 928-672-2700 When to Visit: Summer and fall Instagram: @saguaronationalpark 89A, and continue 4.5 miles to tors center. Website: www.nps.gov/nava Directions: From Flagstaff, go Saguaro National Tuzigoot Road. Turn right onto Entrance Fees: $10 per person east on Interstate 40 for 115 miles Park [p. 40] Sunset Crater Volcano Tuzigoot Road and continue (includes admission to Tuzigoot Organ Pipe Cactus to Petrified Forest National Park Year Designated: 1933 (national National Monument [p. 42] 1.2 miles to the monument National Monument); no National Monument [p. 34] (Exit 311). Turn left onto the park monument), 1961 (Tucson Moun- Year Designated: 1930 visitors center. entrance fee at Montezuma Well Year Designated: 1937 road and continue 0.5 miles to tain District added), 1994 (national Area: 3,040 acres Entrance Fees: $10 per person Visitors Center Hours: 8 a.m. to Area: 330,689 acres the visitors center. park) Wilderness Acreage: None (includes admission to Montezu- Wupatki National 5 p.m. Wilderness Acreage: 300,000 Entrance Fees: $20 per private Area: 91,442 acres Visitors in 2015: 182,203 ma Castle National Monument) Monument [p. 50] Lodging: No acres vehicle, $10 per cyclist or Wilderness Acreage: 57,9 3 0 a c re s Average Elevation: 6,962 feet Visitors Center Hours: 8 a.m. to Year Designated: 1924 Camping: No Visitors in 2015: 222,723 pedestrian Visitors in 2015: 753,446 When to Visit: Year-round Tumacácori National 5 p.m. Area: 35,422 acres Dogs Allowed: Yes (on a leash) Average Elevation: 1,755 feet Visitors Center Hours: 7 or 8 a.m. Average Elevation: 4,767 feet Directions: From Flagstaff, go Historical Park [p. 45] Lodging: No Wilderness Acreage: None; how- Scenic Drives: No When to Visit: October through to between 5 and 7:30 p.m., When to Visit: October through north on U.S. Route 89 for Year Designated: 1908 (national Camping: No ever, 34,194 acres have been Wildlife Viewing: Yes May depending on the season April 12 miles to Forest Road 545. monument), 1990 (national his- Dogs Allowed: Yes (on a leash) proposed and are managed as a Ranger Programs: Yes Directions: From Tucson, go west Lodging: No Directions (Rincon Mountain Turn right (east) onto FR 545 and torical park) Scenic Drives: No wilderness area. Telephone: 928-567-3322 on State Route 86 (Ajo Way) for Camping: Yes, in the backcountry; District, east of Tucson): From continue 2 miles to the monument Area: 360 acres Wildlife Viewing: Yes Visitors in 2015: 212,828 Website: www.nps.gov/moca 118 miles to State Route 85 in Why. 928-524-6228, www.nps.gov/ Tucson, go east on Speedway visitors center, on the right. Wilderness Acreage: None Ranger Programs: Yes Average Elevation: 5,220 feet Facebook: /MontezumaNPS Turn left (south) onto SR 85 and pefo/planyourvisit/camping.htm Boulevard to Freeman Road. Entrance Fees: $20 per private Visitors in 2015: 42,146 Telephone: 928-634-5564 When to Visit: Year-round Twitter: @MontezumaNPS continue 22 miles to the monu- Dogs Allowed: Yes (on a leash) Turn right (south) onto Freeman vehicle, $10 per cyclist or Average Elevation: 3,241 feet Website: www.nps.gov/tuzi Directions: From Flagstaff, go Instagram: @montezumanps ment’s visitors center, on the right. Scenic Drives: Yes Road and continue 4 miles to pedestrian When to Visit: December through Facebook: /TuzigootNPS north on U.S. Route 89 for Entrance Fees: $12 per private Wildlife Viewing: Yes Old Spanish Trail. Turn left onto Visitors Center Hours: 8 or 9 a.m. April Twitter: @TuzigootNPS 12 miles to Forest Road 545, vehicle, $4 per cyclist or pedes- Ranger Programs: Yes Old Spanish Trail and continue a to 5 p.m., depending on the Directions: From Tucson, go south Instagram: @TuzigootNPS near Milepost 430. Turn right trian Telephone: 928-524-6228 quarter-mile to the park entrance, season on Interstate 19 for 41.5 miles to (east) onto FR 545 and continue Visitors Center Hours: 8 a.m. to Website: www.nps.gov/pefo on the left. Lodging: No Tubac (Exit 34). Turn left to cross 21 miles to the monument 5 p.m. Facebook: /PetrifiedForestNPS Directions (Tucson Mountain Camping: No under the highway, then right onto visitors center, on the left. Lodging: No Twitter: @PetrifiedNPS District, west of Tucson): From Dogs Allowed: Yes (on a leash), the I-19 frontage road, and con- Entrance Fees: $20 per private Camping: Yes, at two camp- Instagram: @petrifiedforestnps Tucson, go west on Speedway but only in parking lot tinue 2.7 miles to the monument, vehicle, $10 per cyclist or grounds and in the backcountry; Boulevard to its intersection Scenic Drives: Yes on the left. pedestrian 520-387-6849, www.nps.gov/ Pipe Spring National with Camino de Oeste, where Wildlife Viewing: Yes Entrance Fees: $5 for ages Visitors Center Hours: 9 a.m. to Navajo National orpi/planyourvisit/camping.htm Monument [p. 38] it becomes Gates Pass Road. Ranger Programs: Yes 16 and older, free for younger 5 p.m. Monument [p. 32] Dogs Allowed: Yes (on a leash), Year Designated: 1923 Continue west on Gates Pass Telephone: 928-526-0502 children Lodging: No Year Designated: 1909 but only in the campgrounds Area: 40 acres Road for 4 miles to Kinney Road. Website: www.nps.gov/sucr Visitors Center Hours: 9 a.m. to Walnut Canyon National Camping: No Area: 360 acres and on three designated trails Wilderness Acreage: None Turn right onto Kinney Road Facebook: /SunsetCraterNPS 5 p.m. Monument [p. 48] Dogs Allowed: Yes (on a leash), Wilderness Acreage: None Scenic Drives: Yes Visitors in 2015: 54,619 and continue 3 miles to the park Lodging: No Year Designated: 1915 but only in parking lot Visitors in 2015: 71,370 Wildlife Viewing: Yes Average Elevation: 4,961 feet entrance, on the right. Vehicles Tonto National Camping: No Area: 3,529 acres Scenic Drives: Yes Average Elevation: 7,182 fe et Ranger Programs: Yes When to Visit: Spring weighing more than 12,000 Monument [p. 44] Dogs Allowed: Yes (on a leash), Wilderness Acreage: None Wildlife Viewing: Yes When to Visit: Year-round; tours Telephone: 520-387-6849 Directions: From Flagstaff, go pounds are prohibited on Gates Year Designated: 1907 but only on the Anza Trail Visitors in 2015: 153,322 Ranger Programs: Yes of cliff dwellings are conducted Website: www.nps.gov/orpi north on U.S. Route 89 for Pass Road. Area: 1,120 acres Scenic Drives: No Average Elevation: 6,532 feet Telephone: 928-679-2365 Memorial Day weekend through Facebook: /OrganPipeNPS 105 miles to U.S. Route 89A. Entrance Fees: $10 per private Wilderness Acreage: None Wildlife Viewing: Yes When to Visit: Year-round Website: www.nps.gov/wupa Labor Day weekend. Twitter: @OrganPipeNPS Turn left (west) onto U.S. 89A vehicle, $5 per cyclist or pedes- Visitors in 2015: 37,523 Ranger Programs: Yes Directions: From Flagstaff, go Facebook: /WupatkiNPS Directions: From Flagstaff, go Instagram: @organpipenps and continue 85 miles to State trian Average Elevation: 2,943 feet Telephone: 520-377-5060 east on Interstate 40 for 9 miles north on U.S. Route 89 for Route 389. Turn left onto SR 389 Visitors Center Hours: 9 a.m. to When to Visit: October through Website: www.nps.gov/tuma to Walnut Canyon National 66 miles to U.S. Route 160. and continue 13.5 miles to Pipe 5 p.m. April Facebook: /TumacacoriNHP Monument (Exit 204). Turn right Turn right (east) onto U.S. 160 Spring Road. Turn right onto Lodging: No Directions: From the Phoenix Twitter: @TumacacoriNPS onto the entrance road and con- and continue 63 miles to State Pipe Spring Road and continue area, go northeast on State Instagram: @tumacacorinps tinue 2.5 miles to the monument Route 564. Turn left onto a quarter-mile to the monument, Route 87 for 60 miles to State visitors center. SR 564 and continue 9 miles to on the left. Route 188. Turn right (southeast) Entrance Fees: $8 for ages 16 the monument entrance. From Entrance Fees: $7 for ages onto SR 188 and continue and older, free for younger there, it’s another 0.3 miles to 16 and older, free for younger 35 miles to the monument visitors children the visitors center. children center, on the right.

54 AUGUST 2016 www.arizonahighways.com 55 PARTING SHOT Your Wildest D r e a m ... Just when you thought we’d never publish a wildlife guide, this happens.

SAVE 25% ON OUR NEWEST BOOK

This 160-page softcover book features the state’s most frequently viewed mammals, reptiles, birds, amphibians and fish.

Regular price $19.95 Now $14.99 #AWGS5

Order online at www.shoparizonahighways.com Former President Theodore Roosevelt leads a out the rest of the world. I want to ask you to keep work on it, and man can only mar it.” Behind or call 800-543-5432. Use code P6H5WG when party down the Grand Canyon’s Bright Angel Trail this great wonder of nature as it now is. I hope you Roosevelt is John Hance, who may have been the ordering to take advantage of this special offer. in March 1911. Three years earlier, Roosevelt had will not have a building of any kind, not a summer Canyon’s first non-Native American resident. The Offer expires August 31, 2016. designated the Canyon a national monument; it cottage, a hotel or anything else, to mar the won- Kolb brothers, who operated a photography stu- became a national park in 1919. “In the Grand derful grandeur, the sublimity, the great loneli- dio on the Canyon’s South Rim for decades, made Canyon,” he said, “Arizona has a natural wonder ness and beauty of the Canyon. Leave it as it is. the photo. Grand Canyon National Park which is in kind absolutely unparalleled through- You cannot improve on it. The ages have been at Museum Collection

56 AUGUST 2016