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05_59883x ch01.qxd 10/27/05 11:50 PM Page 5 1 The Best of the Southwest Planning a trip to a region as large and diverse as the American Southwest involves a lot of decision making, so in this chapter we’ve tried to give you some direction. We’ve chosen what we feel is the very best the region has to offer—the places and experiences you won’t want to miss. Although the sights and activities listed here are written up in more detail elsewhere in this book, this chapter should give you an overview of the highlights and get you started. 1 The Best of the Natural Southwest • Monument Valley Buttes at Sunset IV white water. See “Getting Out- (UT and AZ): These stark sentinels side,” in chapter 8. of the desert are impressive at any • Carlsbad Caverns National Park time, but they take on a particularly (NM): One of the world’s largest and dignified aura when the setting sun most complex cave systems is in south- casts its deep colors over them, etch- eastern New Mexico. The 80 known ing their profiles against a darkening caves have spectacular stalagmite and sky. Although the park generally stalactite formations. Explore the Big closes before sunset, you can arrange Room on a 1-mile self-guided tour, a sunset tour—it’s well worth the then catch the massive bat flight from cost. See p. 117. the cave entrance at sunset. See p. 314. • Rio Grande Gorge (NM): A hike • White Sands National Monument into this dramatic gorge is unforget- (NM): Located 15 miles southwest of table. You’ll first see it as you come Alamogordo, White Sands National over a rise heading toward Taos. It’s a Monument preserves the best part of colossal slice in the earth formed dur- the world’s largest gypsum dune field. ing the late Cretaceous period (130 For a truly unforgettable experience, million years ago) and the early Ter- camp overnight so that you can tiary period (about 70 million years watch the sun rise on the smooth, ago). Drive about 35 miles north of endless dunes. See p. 299. Taos, near the village of Cerro, to the • Arizona–Sonora Desert Museum Wild RiversCOPYRIGHTED Recreation Area. From (AZ): MATERIAL The name is misleading—this the lip of the canyon, you descend is more zoo and botanical garden through millions of years of geologic than museum. Naturalistic settings history and land inhabited by Indians house dozens of species of desert ani- since 16,000 B.C. If you’re visiting mals, including a number of critters during spring and early summer and you wouldn’t want to meet in the like an adrenaline rush, be sure to wild (rattlesnakes, tarantulas, scorpi- find a professional guide and raft the ons, black widows, and Gila mon- Taos Box, a 17-mile stretch of class sters). See p. 369. 05_59883x ch01.qxd 10/27/05 11:51 PM Page 6 6 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF THE SOUTHWEST The American Southwest 06 100 mi FFilmoreiillmorre Gunnison Green River Crescent Mtt.. Evans 50 Jct. 0 100 km 21 70 24 Milford 24 93 BBeavereaverr Junction Moab Buena Viisstta Collorado 15 CAPITOLCAPIITOL REEFREEF CANYONLANDSCANYONLANDS Spriings Caliente NAT'LNAT''L PARKPARK NAT'LNAT''L PARKPARK 191 56 95 CCedaredarr CCityiitty Panguitch NEVADA MMonticelloonttiicellllo 14 12 UUTAHT A H C O L O R A D O Alamo ZZIONIION Puebllo NAT'LNAT''L PARKPARK o Lass Aniimass BRYCE CANYON ad Blanding orr 93 9 NAT'L PARK oll LLakeake C GGLENLEN CCANYONANYON Mesquite St. George PPowellowellll Montte Viisstta KKanabanab NAT'LNAT''L RECREATIONRECREATIION GGlendalellendalle AREAAREA Bluff GGLENLEN CCANYONANYON Allamossa Jacob Lake DDAMAM Pagossa 163 Sprriingss LLasas VVegasegas LLakeake Page LLAKEAKE MMEADEAD 67 Anttoniitto MMeadead NAT'LNAT''L RECREATIONRECREATIION 89 Kayenta AREAAREA HHOOVEROOVER GGRANDRAND CCANYONANYON 191 Farrmiingtton 15 BBoulderoullderr DDAMAM GGrandrand 160 NAT'LNAT''L PARKPARK CCityiitty CCanyonanyon Chinle O K L A .. LLakeake 180 64 95 MMohaveohave Cameron Panguitch EEASTAST MMOJAVEOJJAVE 93 NAT'LNAT''L SCENICSCENIIC Kingman 64 264 264 AREAAREA DAVIS 40 WWilliamsiilllliiamss DAM SSt.tt.. MMichaelsiichaellss Ash Fork FFlagstaffllagstaff SSandersanderrss Conchass 40 89 180 Needles Ress.. nad 40 .. Ca iian Winslow Ramah S IA Holbrook 666 N Prescott AARIZONAR I Z O N A R 180 O 93 F 77 II 69 SSt.tt.. JJohnsJohnss L 95 A C 61 Quemado N E W M E X I C O Show Low Sumner ee Vaughn Blythe Quartzsite 17 dd Wickenburg Lake Springeerville Roosevelt ranran Farrwellll o 60 GG d 10 a Roosevelt Lake r PPhoenixhoeniix Alpine o l 95 o San Anttoniio C Buckeye 60 GGlobellobe 666 GGilaiilla BBendend YYumauma Casa Gila Grande Florence San Carlos 70 CCliftonlliifftton S 180 Trrutth orr 8 A Res. 85 N Conssequencess Tattum T A Safford QQuartzsiteuarrttzssiitte C Ajo 10 A 89 T A 666 L Siillverr Ciitty OORGANRGAN PPIPEIIPE I TTucsonucson N 85 CACTUSCACTUS A LLordsburgordsburg Lake WWilcoxiillcox M McMiillllan NAT'LNAT''L MONUMENTMONUMENT T SSonoytaonoytta N 86 S . 89 Benson Puerto 80 Peñasco MEXICO Tombstone 666 80 19 Ell Paso BBisbeeiissbee Caborca Nogales 92 DDouglasougllas 05_59883x ch01.qxd 10/27/05 11:51 PM Page 7 THE BEST OF THE NATURAL SOUTHWEST 7 Fiillmorre 70 Denver 36 MMt.tt.. EEvansvans 70 285 Grand Junction Castle Rock Burlington Limon 50 24 24 Beaverr 385 Buena Viisstta CColoradoollorado CAPIITOL REEF Buena Vista SSpringspriings 94 CANYONLANDS Pikes Peak NAT''L PARK NAT''L PARK Montrose 25 Kit Carson Cedarr Ciitty 50 287 U T A H Monttiicellllo CCOLORADOO L O R A D O ZION A ZION PPueblouebllo rka NAT''L PARK o nsas LLasass AAnimasniimass ad Silverton orr oll 666 Lake C GLEN CANYON Powellll 550 MMonteontte VVistaiisstta La Junta Lamar Kanab NAT''L RECREATIION Cortez Gllendalle 350 AREA Durango MESA VERDE 160 GLEN CANYON 160 DAM NAT'L PARK PPagosaagossa AAlamosallamossa SSpringsprriingss 285 Las Vegas Lake Lake LAKE MEAD AAntonitonttoniitto Trinidad Mead 287 NAT''L RECREATIION 64 Aztec 160 AREA 385 HOOVER GRAND CANYON FFarmingtonarrmiingtton Boullderr DAM Grand Raton NAT''L PARK 44 84 Ciitty Canyon 64 Cimarron 64 87 OOKLA.K L A .. Lake Mohave 666 Springer 287 68 Taos Clayton Cuba EAST MOJJAVE 56 NAT''L SCENIIC 57 Espanola AREA 25 Wiilllliiamss CONTINENTALDIVIDE 4 Stt.. Miichaellss Gallup Fllagstaff Santa Fe 39 Sanderrss 385 44 Las Vegas CConchasonchass 54 RRes.ess.. Canadiian RRamahamah Albuquerque Logan S.. 285 84 IA Grants P Tucumcari N A R I Z O N A 53 40 eco R s O Los Lunas 40 F Quemado II Stt.. JJohnss L A Santa Rosa 60 C QQuemadouemado NNEWE W MMEXICOE X I C O SSumnerumner ee VVaughnaughn Fort Sumner 60 dd LLakeake Magdalena 25 ranran 54 FFarwellarrwellll GG 55 Clovis Phoeniix E Socorro Portales 70 G 84 N SSanan AAntonionttoniio A o 380 Elida i 285 R R . K S Carrizozo Gllobe C N T Yuma Giilla Bend A 70 385 L M 206 B Elephant Butte Clliifftton Roswell 15 TTruthrrutth oorrr Res. S 82 A 70 Hondo CConsequencesonssequencess E Tularosa TTatumattum 62 R Brownfield G Quarrttzssiitte D N U A Almogordo A Lovington D N ALUP Artesia SSilveriillverr CCityiitty A ORGAN PIIPE S 82 CACTUS Tucson Lordsburg LLakeake Wiillcox 70 54 EM MMcMillancMiillllan 180 Seminole Sonoytta NAT''L MONUMENT Las Cruces 62 Hobbs 70 10 Orogrande T 180 N Carlsbad Deming S. 285 EElll PPasoaso Biissbee 62 180 Odessa Ciudad TEXAS Dougllas MEXICO Juárez 05_59883x ch01.qxd 10/27/05 11:51 PM Page 8 8 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF THE SOUTHWEST • Saguaro National Park (AZ): Lying adaptations and how indigenous both east and west of Tucson, this tribes once used many of this region’s park preserves “forests” of saguaro wild plants. See p. 430. cacti and is the very essence of the • Zion National Park (UT): At the desert as so many people imagine it. Narrows in Zion, sheer 1,000-foot- You can hike it, bike it, or drive it. high walls enclose you in a 20-foot- See p. 372. wide world of hanging gardens, • Desert Botanical Garden (AZ): waterfalls, and sculpted sandstone There’s no better place to learn about arches, with the Virgin River beneath the plants of Arizona’s Sonoran your feet. This is one of the park’s Desert and the many other deserts many awe-inspiring experiences. See of the world. Displays at this Phoe- p. 561. nix botanical garden explain plant 2 The Best Outdoor Activities • Hiking (throughout the region): tethers and float free, too. Most of the What’s unique about hiking in the operators are in Albuquerque; see Southwest is the variety of terrain, p. 249 for recommendations. Bal- from desert to alpine forest to bad- looning is also popular in Arizona; lands to canyons. In Utah, you can see “Getting Outside,” in chapters 12 hike right past all three stone forma- and 13, and “Organized Tours,” tions at Natural Bridges National under “Sedona & Oak Creek Monument (p. 96) or explore the Canyon,” in chapter 15 for infor- hoodoo formations in Bryce Canyon mation on companies in Tucson, National Park (p. 567). Some of our Phoenix, and Sedona. favorite places for a hike in New • Horseback riding (NM and AZ): Mexico are the El Malpais badlands New Mexico’s history is stamped with (p. 273), the hauntingly sculpted the hoof, dating from the Spanish rock formations at Abiquiu that artist conquistadors’ introduction of horses Georgia O’Keeffe made famous in to the New World. Riding in New her paintings (p. 282), and White Mexico still has that Old West feel, Sands National Monument (p. 299). with trails that wind through wilder- In Arizona, a hike down into the ness, traversing passes and broad Grand Canyon or Havasu Canyon is meadows.