05_59883x ch01.qxd 10/27/05 11:50 PM Page 5

1 The Best of the Southwest

Planning a trip to a region as large and diverse as the American Southwest involves a lot of decision making, so in this chapter we’ve tried to give you some direction. We’ve chosen what we feel is the very best the region has to offer—the places and experiences you won’t want to miss. Although the sights and activities listed here are written up in more detail elsewhere in this book, this chapter should give you an overview of the highlights and get you started.

1 The Best of the Natural Southwest • Monument Valley Buttes at Sunset IV white water. See “Getting Out- (UT and AZ): These stark sentinels side,” in chapter 8. of the desert are impressive at any • Carlsbad Caverns National Park time, but they take on a particularly (NM): One of the world’s largest and dignified aura when the setting sun most complex cave systems is in south- casts its deep colors over them, etch- eastern New Mexico. The 80 known ing their profiles against a darkening caves have spectacular stalagmite and sky. Although the park generally stalactite formations. Explore the Big closes before sunset, you can arrange Room on a 1-mile self-guided tour, a sunset tour—it’s well worth the then catch the massive bat flight from cost. See p. 117. the cave entrance at sunset. See p. 314. • Rio Grande Gorge (NM): A hike • White Sands National Monument into this dramatic gorge is unforget- (NM): Located 15 miles southwest of table. You’ll first see it as you come Alamogordo, White Sands National over a rise heading toward Taos. It’s a Monument preserves the best part of colossal slice in the earth formed dur- the world’s largest gypsum dune field. ing the late Cretaceous period (130 For a truly unforgettable experience, million years ago) and the early Ter- camp overnight so that you can tiary period (about 70 million years watch the sun rise on the smooth, ago). Drive about 35 miles north of endless dunes. See p. 299. Taos, near the village of Cerro, to the • Arizona–Sonora Desert Museum Wild RiversCOPYRIGHTED Recreation Area. From (AZ): MATERIAL The name is misleading—this the lip of the canyon, you descend is more zoo and botanical garden through millions of years of geologic than museum. Naturalistic settings history and land inhabited by Indians house dozens of species of desert ani- since 16,000 B.C. If you’re visiting mals, including a number of critters during spring and early summer and you wouldn’t want to meet in the like an adrenaline rush, be sure to wild (rattlesnakes, tarantulas, scorpi- find a professional guide and raft the ons, black widows, and Gila mon- Taos Box, a 17-mile stretch of class sters). See p. 369. 05_59883x ch01.qxd 10/27/05 11:51 PM Page 6

6 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF THE SOUTHWEST The American Southwest

06 100 mi FFilmoreiillmorre Gunnison Green River Crescent Mtt.. Evans 50 Jct. 0 100 km 21 70 24 Milford 24 93 BBeavereaverr Junction Moab Buena Viisstta Collorado 15 CCAPITOLAPIITOL RREEFEEF CCANYONLANDSANYONLANDS Spriings Caliente NNAT'LAT''L PPARKARK NNAT'LAT''L PPARKARK 191 56 95 CCedaredarr CCityiitty Panguitch NEVADA MMonticelloonttiicellllo 14 12 UUTAHT A H C O L O R A D O Alamo ZZIONIION Puebllo NAT'LNAT''L PARKPARK o Lass Aniimass BRYCE CANYON ad Blanding orr 93 9 NAT'L PARK oll LLakeake C GGLENLEN CANYONCANYON Mesquite St. George PPowellowellll Montte Viisstta KKanabanab NNAT'LAT''L RRECREATIONECREATIION GGlendalellendalle AAREAREA Bluff GGLENLEN CCANYONANYON Allamossa Jacob Lake DDAMAM Pagossa 163 Sprriingss LLasas VVegasegas LLakeake Page LLAKEAKE MMEADEAD 67 Anttoniitto MMeadead NAT'LNAT''L RECREATIONRECREATIION 89 Kayenta AAREAREA HHOOVEROOVER GGRANDRAND CCANYONANYON 191 Farrmiingtton 15 BBoulderoullderr DDAMAM GGrandrand 160 NAT'LNAT''L PARKPARK CCityiitty CCanyonanyon Chinle O K L A .. LLakeake 180 64 95 MMohaveohave Cameron Panguitch EEASTAST MMOJAVEOJJAVE 93 NAT'LNAT''L SCENICSCENIIC Kingman 64 264 264 AREAAREA DAVIS 40 WWilliamsiilllliiamss DAM SSt.tt.. MMichaelsiichaellss Ash Fork FFlagstaffllagstaff SSandersanderrss Conchass 40 89 180 Needles Ress.. nad 40 .. Ca iian Winslow Ramah S IA Holbrook 666 N Prescott AARIZONAR I Z O N A R 180 O 93 F 77 II 69 SSt.tt.. JJohnsJohnss L 95 A C 61 Quemado N E W M E X I C O Show Low Sumner ee Vaughn Blythe Quartzsite 17 dd Wickenburg Lake Springeerville Roosevelt ranran Farrwellll o 60 GG d 10 a Roosevelt Lake r PPhoenixhoeniix Alpine o l 95 o San Anttoniio C Buckeye 60 GGlobellobe 666 GGilaiilla BBendend YYumauma Casa Gila Grande Florence San Carlos 70 CCliftonlliifftton S 180 Trrutth orr 8 A Res. 85 N Conssequencess Tattum T A Safford QQuartzsiteuarrttzssiitte C Ajo 10 A 89 T A 666 L Siillverr Ciitty OORGANRGAN PPIPEIIPE I TTucsonucson N 85 CACTUSCACTUS A LLordsburgordsburg Lake WWilcoxiillcox M McMiillllan NAT'LNAT''L MONUMENTMONUMENT T SSonoytaonoytta N 86 S . 89 Benson Puerto 80 Peñasco MEXICO Tombstone 666 80 19 Ell Paso BBisbeeiissbee Caborca Nogales 92 DDouglasougllas 05_59883x ch01.qxd 10/27/05 11:51 PM Page 7

THE BEST OF THE NATURAL SOUTHWEST 7

Fiillmorre 70 Denver 36 MMt.tt.. EEvansvans 70 285 Grand Junction Castle Rock Burlington Limon 50 24 24 Beaverr 385 Buena Viisstta CColoradoollorado CAPIITOL REEF Buena Vista SSpringspriings 94 CANYONLANDS Pikes Peak NAT''L PARK NAT''L PARK Montrose 25 Kit Carson Cedarr Ciitty 50 287 U T A H Monttiicellllo CCOLORADOO L O R A D O ZION A ZION PPueblouebllo rka NAT''L PARK o nsas LLasass AAnimasniimass ad Silverton orr oll 666 Lake C GLEN CANYON Powellll 550 MMonteontte VVistaiisstta La Junta Lamar Kanab NAT''L RECREATIION Cortez Gllendalle 350 AREA Durango MESA VERDE 160 GLEN CANYON 160 DAM NAT'L PARK PPagosaagossa AAlamosallamossa SSpringsprriingss 285 Las Vegas Lake Lake LAKE MEAD AAntonitonttoniitto Trinidad Mead 287 NAT''L RECREATIION 64 Aztec 160 AREA 385 HOOVER GRAND CANYON FFarmingtonarrmiingtton Boullderr DAM Grand Raton NAT''L PARK 44 84 Ciitty Canyon 64 Cimarron 64 87 OOKLA.K L A .. Lake Mohave 666 Springer 287 68 Taos Clayton Cuba EAST MOJJAVE 56 NAT''L SCENIIC 57 Espanola AREA 25 Wiilllliiamss CONTINENTALDIVIDE 4 Stt.. Miichaellss Gallup Fllagstaff Santa Fe 39 Sanderrss 385 44 Las Vegas CConchasonchass 54 RRes.ess.. Canadiian RRamahamah Albuquerque Logan S.. 285 84 IA Grants P Tucumcari N A R I Z O N A 53 40 eco R s O Los Lunas 40 F Quemado II Stt.. JJohnss L A Santa Rosa 60 C QQuemadouemado NNEWE W MMEXICOE X I C O SSumnerumner ee VVaughnaughn Fort Sumner 60 dd LLakeake Magdalena 25 ranran 54 FFarwellarrwellll GG 55 Clovis

Phoeniix E Socorro Portales 70 G 84 N SSanan AAntonionttoniio A o 380 Elida i 285 R R . K S Carrizozo Gllobe C N T Yuma Giilla Bend A 70 385 L M 206 B Elephant Butte Clliifftton Roswell 15 TTruthrrutth oorrr Res. S 82 A 70 Hondo CConsequencesonssequencess E Tularosa TTatumattum 62 R Brownfield G Quarrttzssiitte D

N U A Almogordo A Lovington

D N

ALUP Artesia

SSilveriillverr CCityiitty A ORGAN PIIPE S 82 CACTUS Tucson Lordsburg LLakeake Wiillcox 70 54 EM MMcMillancMiillllan 180 Seminole Sonoytta NAT''L MONUMENT Las Cruces 62 Hobbs 70 10 Orogrande T 180 N Carlsbad Deming S. 285 EElll PPasoaso Biissbee 62 180 Odessa Ciudad TEXAS Dougllas MEXICO Juárez 05_59883x ch01.qxd 10/27/05 11:51 PM Page 8

8 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF THE SOUTHWEST • Saguaro National Park (AZ): Lying adaptations and how indigenous both east and west of Tucson, this tribes once used many of this region’s park preserves “forests” of saguaro wild plants. See p. 430. cacti and is the very essence of the • Zion National Park (UT): At the desert as so many people imagine it. Narrows in Zion, sheer 1,000-foot- You can hike it, bike it, or drive it. high walls enclose you in a 20-foot- See p. 372. wide world of hanging gardens, • Desert Botanical Garden (AZ): waterfalls, and sculpted sandstone There’s no better place to learn about arches, with the Virgin River beneath the plants of Arizona’s Sonoran your feet. This is one of the park’s Desert and the many other deserts many awe-inspiring experiences. See of the world. Displays at this Phoe- p. 561. nix botanical garden explain plant

2 The Best Outdoor Activities • Hiking (throughout the region): tethers and float free, too. Most of the What’s unique about hiking in the operators are in Albuquerque; see Southwest is the variety of terrain, p. 249 for recommendations. Bal- from desert to alpine forest to bad- looning is also popular in Arizona; lands to canyons. In Utah, you can see “Getting Outside,” in chapters 12 hike right past all three stone forma- and 13, and “Organized Tours,” tions at Natural Bridges National under “Sedona & Oak Creek Monument (p. 96) or explore the Canyon,” in chapter 15 for infor- hoodoo formations in Bryce Canyon mation on companies in Tucson, National Park (p. 567). Some of our Phoenix, and Sedona. favorite places for a hike in New • Horseback riding (NM and AZ): Mexico are the El Malpais badlands New Mexico’s history is stamped with (p. 273), the hauntingly sculpted the hoof, dating from the Spanish rock formations at Abiquiu that artist conquistadors’ introduction of horses Georgia O’Keeffe made famous in to the New World. Riding in New her paintings (p. 282), and White Mexico still has that Old West feel, Sands National Monument (p. 299). with trails that wind through wilder- In Arizona, a hike down into the ness, traversing passes and broad Grand Canyon or Havasu Canyon is meadows. Some of the best rides are not for the unfit or the faint of heart, in the Pecos Wilderness and on Taos but it will take you on a journey Pueblo land. See “Getting Outside,” through millions of years set in stone. in chapters 7 and 8. This trip takes plenty of planning Cowboys still ride ranges all over and requires some strenuous hiking. Arizona, and so can you if you book See “The Grand Canyon South Rim” a stay at one of the state’s many guest and “A South Rim Alternative: ranches (formerly known as dude Havasu Canyon,” in chapter 16. ranches). You might even get to drive • Ballooning (NM and AZ): With the some cattle down the trail. After a International Balloon Fiesta in Albu- long or short day in the saddle, you querque bringing more than 750 bal- can soak in a hot tub, go for a swim, loons to the area, Albuquerque has or play tennis before chowing down. become the sport’s world capital. For- See chapters 12, 14, and 15. tunately, visitors can let loose the 05_59883x ch01.qxd 10/27/05 11:51 PM Page 9

THE BEST SCENIC DRIVES 9 • Mountain Biking (NM and AZ): weeks, no other active vacation in the Almost anywhere you go in New region comes close to matching the Mexico, you’ll find trails. We’ve excitement of a raft trip. In Arizona, hooked onto some fun old mining nothing beats a Colorado River raft- roads in the Black Range down south ing trip through the Grand Canyon. and explored sage forest on the rim of Sure, the river is crowded with groups the Taos Gorge in the north. See the in the summer, but the grandeur of “Biking” sections under “Getting the canyon more than makes up for Outside,” in each New Mexico chap- it. See “Other Ways of Seeing the ter, especially chapter 8, “Taos.” Canyon,” under “The Grand Canyon In Arizona, among the red rocks of South Rim,” in chapter 16. In New Sedona, you can pedal through awe- Mexico, the wild Taos Box, a steep- some scenery on some of the most sided canyon south of the Wild memorable single-track trails in the Rivers Recreation Area, offers a series Southwest. There’s even plenty of of class IV rapids that rarely lets up slickrock. See “Getting Outside,” for some 17 miles, providing one of under “Sedona & Oak Creek the most exciting 1-day white-water Canyon,” in chapter 15. tours in the West. See “Getting Out- • River Rafting (NM and AZ): side,” in chapter 8. Whether you go for 3 days or 2

3 The Best Scenic Drives • Monument Valley Navajo Tribal “Taking the High Road to Taos,” in Park (UT and AZ): This valley of chapter 7. sandstone buttes and mesas is one of • Turquoise Trail (Albuquerque, the most photographed spots in NM): Meandering through the broad America. It’s familiar to people all Galisteo basin, this is the scenic route over the world from countless from Albuquerque to Santa Fe. The movies, TV shows, and commercials. two-lane road runs through piñon- A 17-mile dirt road winds through studded hills and old mining towns the park, giving visitors close-up such as Madrid and Cerrillos, where views of such landmarks as Elephant 2,000 years ago Native Americans Butte, the Mittens, and Totem Pole. hammered turquoise and silver from See “Monument Valley Navajo Tribal the hills. Today artists and craftspeo- Park,” in chapter 6. ple have revived the towns. See “En • High Road to Taos (Santa Fe, NM): Route to Santa Fe: Along the One of New Mexico’s primo experi- Turquoise Trail,” in chapter 9. ences, this road traverses the moun- • Lincoln Loop (Ruidoso, NM): Ele- tains from Santa Fe to Taos, passing gant art, ancient petroglyphs, and by chile and apple farms in old His- Billy the Kid memorabilia draw road panic villages. Stop in Chimayo to see warriors to this 162-mile loop in unique wool weaving, in Cordova to southeastern New Mexico. It begins in find lovely woodcarvings, and in the mountain resort town of Ruidoso renegade Truchas, where life remains and cruises to Lincoln, where travelers much as it did a century ago. Most can “walk in the footsteps” of the important, the route crosses the base notorious punk Billy the Kid. Next of New Mexico’s grandest peaks. See it passes imaginative petroglyphs, 05_59883x ch01.qxd 10/27/05 11:51 PM Page 10

10 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF THE SOUTHWEST through the Mescalero Apache Reser- Sedona, Oak Creek Canyon is a cool vation, and back to Ruidoso. See “A oasis. From the scenic overlook at the Scenic Drive Around the Lincoln top of the canyon to the swimming Loop,” in chapter 11. holes and hiking trails at the bottom, • The Apache Trail (east of Phoenix, this canyon road provides a rapid AZ): Much of this winding road, change in climate and landscape. See which passes just north of the Super- “Sedona & Oak Creek Canyon,” in stition Mountains, is unpaved and chapter 15. follows a rugged route once ridden by • Mount Lemmon (Tucson, AZ): The Apaches. This is some of the most views of Tucson from the city’s north- remote country in the Phoenix area, ern foothills are great, but the vistas with far-reaching desert vistas and from Mount Lemmon are even bet- lots to see and do along the way. See ter. With a ski area at its summit, “A Side Trip from Phoenix: The Mount Lemmon rises from the desert Apache Trail,” in chapter 13. like an island emerging from the sea. • Oak Creek Canyon (Sedona, AZ): Along the way, the road climbs from Slicing down from the pine country cactus country to cool pine forests. outside Flagstaff to the red rocks of See “Getting Outside,” in chapter 12.

4 The Best Native American Sights • Ute Mountain Tribal Park (CO): isolated archaeological sites in the These ruins differ from others in Col- Four Corners area—the remains of orado because they’re on the Ute curious sandstone towers built more Mountain Indian Reservation, and than 700 years ago by the Anasazi the only way to see the reservation (ancestral Puebloans). These mysteri- is on a guided tour conducted by ous structures still keep archaeologists members of the tribe. You’ll see ruins guessing. See p. 88. and petroglyphs similar to those in • Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Mesa Verde, but with an informed Park (UT and AZ): For most of us, personal guide and without crowds. Monument Valley is the Old West. See p. 88. We’ve seen it dozens of times in • Mesa Verde National Park (CO): movie theaters, on TV, in magazine Home to the most impressive prehis- advertisements, and on billboards. toric cliff dwellings in the Southwest, The Old West may be gone, but Mesa Verde (Spanish for “green many Navajos still call this home. A table”) overwhelms you with its size Navajo guide will give you the and complexity. The first national Navajo perspective on this majestic park set aside to preserve works cre- land and take you into areas not oth- ated by humans, it covers some erwise open to visitors. See p. 115. 52,000 acres just outside Cortez. • Indian Pueblo Cultural Center Among the most compelling sites are (Albuquerque, NM): Owned and Spruce Tree House, Square Tower operated as a nonprofit organization House, and Cliff Palace, a four-story, by the 19 pueblos of New Mexico, apartment-style dwelling. See “Mesa this is a fine place to begin an explo- Verde National Park,” in chapter 6. ration of Native American culture. • Hovenweep National Monument The museum is modeled after Pueblo (UT): This deserted valley contains Bonito, a spectacular 9th-century ruin some of the most striking and most in Chaco Culture National Historic 05_59883x ch01.qxd 10/27/05 11:51 PM Page 11

THE BEST FAMILY EXPERIENCES 11 Park, and contains art and artifacts ago feature a completely recon- old and new. See p. 244. structed kiva 50 feet in diameter. See • Petroglyph National Monument p. 129. (NM): This site has 25,000 petro- • Heard Museum (AZ): This Phoenix glyphs (prehistoric rock carvings) institution is one of the nation’s pre- and a variety of hiking trails geared to mier museums devoted to Native differing levels of difficulty. It’s right American cultures. In addition to his- on the outskirts of Albuquerque. See torical exhibits, a huge kachina col- p. 247. lection, and an excellent store, it has • Bandelier National Monument annual exhibits of contemporary (NM): Along with the Puye Cliff Native American art as well as dance Dwellings, these ruins provide a performances and demonstrations of spectacular peek into the lives of the traditional skills. See p. 430. Anasazi culture, which flourished in • Tonto National Monument (AZ): the area between A.D. 1100 and East of Phoenix on the Apache Trail, 1550. Less than 15 miles south of Los this is one of the only easily accessible Alamos, the ruins spread across a cliff dwellings in Arizona that you peaceful canyon. The most dramatic can still visit; you don’t have to just site is a dwelling and kiva (a room observe from a distance. See p. 458. used for religious activities) in a cave • Montezuma Castle National Monu- 140 feet above the canyon floor— ment (AZ): Located just off I-17, this reached by a climb up long pueblo- is the easiest cliff dwelling to get to in style ladders. See p. 191. Arizona, but visitors cannot enter. • Pecos National Historical Park Nearby Montezuma Well also has (NM): It’s hard to rank New Mexico’s some small ruins. See p. 496. many ruins, but this one, sprawled on • Canyon de Chelly National Monu- a plain about 25 miles east of Santa ment (AZ): Small cliff dwellings up Fe, is one of the most impressive. It and down the length of Canyon de resonates with the history of the Chelly are visible from overlooks, Pueblo Revolt of 1680. You’ll see evi- while a trip into the canyon itself dence of where the Pecos people offers a chance to see some of these burned the mission church before ruins up close. See p. 109. joining in the attack on Santa Fe. • Navajo National Monument (AZ): You’ll also see where the Spanish con- Keet Seel and Betatakin are some of quistadors later compromised, allow- the finest examples of Anasazi cliff ing sacred kivas to be built next to the dwellings in the state. Although the reconstructed mission. See p. 190. ruins are at the end of long hikes, • Aztec Ruins National Monument their size and state of preservation (NM): These ruins of a 500-room make the sites well worth the effort Native American pueblo abandoned you’ll expend to see them. See p. 114. by the Anasazi more than 200 years

5 The Best Family Experiences • Albuquerque Aquarium (NM): For You’ll pass by many large tanks and those of us born and raised in the within an eels’ den. The culminating desert, this attraction quenches years show is a 285,000-gallon shark tank, of soul thirst. Exhibits focus on sea where many species of fish and 15 to areas fed by the Rio Grande River. 20 sand tiger, brown, and nurse 05_59883x ch01.qxd 10/27/05 11:51 PM Page 12

12 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF THE SOUTHWEST sharks swim around looking omi- universe of seemingly alien life forms. nous. The aquarium is part of the Kids won’t like the fact that they can’t Albuquerque Biological Park. See go climbing on the formations, but p. 247. they’ll be too fascinated to complain • Rio Grande Zoo (NM): More than much. See p. 314. 1,200 animals of 300 species live on • Arizona–Sonora Desert Museum 60 acres of riverside bosque among (AZ): This Tucson attraction is actu- ancient cottonwoods. Open-moat ally a zoo featuring the animals of the exhibits with animals in naturalized Sonoran Desert. It has rooms full of habitats are a treat for zoo-goers. snakes, a prairie-dog town, bighorn Albuquerque’s zoo has an especially sheep, mountain lions, and an aviary fine collection of elephants, moun- full of hummingbirds. Kids and tain lions, koalas, reptiles, and native adults love this place. See p. 369. Southwestern species. During sum- • Shootouts at the O.K. Corral (AZ): mer, a children’s petting zoo is open, Tombstone may be “the town too and the New Mexico Symphony tough to die,” but poor Ike Clanton Orchestra performs. See p. 249. and his buddies the McLaury boys • Santa Fe Children’s Museum (NM): have to die over and over at frequent Designed for the whole family, this reenactments of the famous gunfight. museum offers interactive exhibits See p. 474. and hands-on activities focusing on • The Grand Canyon Railway (AZ): the arts, humanities, science, and Not only is this train excursion a fun technology. Most notable is a 16-foot way to get to the Grand Canyon, it climbing wall that kids can scale, out- also lets you avoid wearisome parking fitted with helmets and harnesses. problems and congestion. Shootouts The museum regularly schedules and train robberies are to be expected special performances and hands-on in this corner of the Wild West. See sessions with artists and scientists. p. 545. Recently, Family Life magazine named • Zion National Park (UT): The this one of the 10 hottest children’s Junior Ranger/Explorers program, museums in the nation. See p. 170. available at most national parks, is • Carlsbad Caverns National Park particularly extensive here. Morning (NM): Truly one of the world’s natu- and afternoon activities all summer ral wonders, these caverns swallow are geared toward teaching kids what visitors as they embark on what feels makes this natural wonder so special. like a journey to the center of the They’ll have so much fun, they won’t earth. Nocturnal creatures thrive, and even notice they’re learning. See water drips onto your body. Stalac- p. 561. tites and stalagmites create another

6 The Best Luxury Hotels & Resorts • La Posada de Santa Fe Resort and and pool and spacious spa rooms. Spa (Santa Fe, NM; & 800/727- Most units don’t have views but do 5276): With the feel of a meandering have outdoor patios, and most are adobe village but the service of a fine tucked back into the quiet com- hotel, this has become one of New pound. See p. 144. Mexico’s premier resorts. The resort • Hyatt Regency Tamaya Resort and has a Zen-Southwestern–style spa Spa (Santa Ana Pueblo, NM; & 800/ 05_59883x ch01.qxd 10/27/05 11:51 PM Page 13

THE BEST B&BS 13 55-HYATT): Situated on Santa Ana 553-1717): Taking its name from the Pueblo land, this grand resort has all massive blocks of eroded granite scat- a human might need to get away tered about the grounds, the Boul- from the world. Three swimming ders is among the most exclusive and pools, a 16,000-square-foot full-serv- expensive resorts in the state. Pueblo ice spa and fitness center, and the 18- architecture fits seamlessly with the hole Twin Warriors championship landscape, and the golf course is golf course designed by Gary Panks the most breathtaking in Arizona. See make for plenty to do. Meanwhile, p. 405. spacious rooms offer quiet for those • Arizona Biltmore Resort & Spa who’d rather do nothing. Though the (Phoenix, AZ; & 800/950-0086): resort is surrounded by acres of coun- Combining discreet service and the tryside, it’s only 15 minutes from architectural styling of Frank Lloyd Albuquerque and 45 minutes from Wright, the Biltmore has long been Santa Fe. See p. 240. one of Arizona’s most prestigious • Hyatt Regency Scottsdale Resort resorts. This is a thoroughly old- and Spa at Gainey Ranch (Scotts- money place, but it continues to keep dale, AZ; & 800/55-HYATT): pace with the times. See p. 407. Contemporary desert architecture, • Loews Ventana Canyon Resort dramatic landscaping, a water play- (Tucson, AZ; & 800/234-5117): ground with its own beach, a staff With the Santa Catalina Mountains that’s always ready to assist you, sev- rising in the backyard and an almost- eral good restaurants that aren’t over- natural waterfall only steps away priced, and even gondola rides—it all from the lobby, this is Tucson’s most adds up to a lot of fun at one of the dramatic resort. Contemporary styling most smoothly run resorts in Ari- throughout makes constant reference zona. See p. 402. to the desert setting. See p. 352. • The Phoenician (Scottsdale, AZ; • Enchantment Resort (Sedona, AZ; & 800/888-8234): This Xanadu of & 800/826-4180): A dramatic set- the resort world brims with marble, ting in a red-rock canyon makes this crystal, and art. With staff members the most unforgettably situated resort seemingly around every corner, the in the state. If you want to feel as hotel offers its guests impeccable though you’re vacationing in the service. Mary Elaine’s, the resort’s desert, this place fits the bill. Guest premier dining room, is among the rooms are constructed in pueblo finest restaurants in the state, and the architectural style; the spa is one of views are hard to beat. See p. 403. Arizona’s finest. See p. 506. • The Boulders Resort and Golden Door Spa (Carefree, AZ; & 800/

7 The Best B&Bs • Kokopelli’s Cave (Farmington, NM; VCR, kitchen, and space enough for & 505/326-2461): This is an actual a family. Best of all is the bathroom cave, but it’s like no other cave you’ve where water pours off rocks, creating ever seen. Carved deep into the side a waterfall. Golden eagles nest in the of a cliff, it’s a three-room luxury area, and ringtail cats tend to wander apartment complete with carpet, across the balcony. See p. 132. 05_59883x ch01.qxd 10/27/05 11:51 PM Page 14

14 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF THE SOUTHWEST • Hacienda Antigua (Albuquerque, decor, and loads of outdoor spaces NM; & 800/201-2986): This 200- where guests can relax in the warmth year-old adobe inn, once a stagecoach of the desert. See p. 354. stop, now offers a glimpse of the old • Rocamadour Bed & Breakfast days with refreshing modern touches. for (Rock) Lovers (Prescott, AZ; The guest rooms surround a quiet & 888/771-1933): Set amid the courtyard, and a pool and hot tub rounded boulders of the Granite nestle near towering cottonwoods. Dells just north of Prescott, this The place sings of old New Mexico, inn combines a spectacular setting with history evident in places such with French antiques and luxurious as La Capilla, the home’s former accommodations. You won’t find a chapel, which is now a guest room. more memorable setting in the state. See p. 238. See p. 491. • Casa de las Chimeneas (Taos, NM; • Briar Patch Inn (Sedona, AZ; & 877/758-4777): This 1925 adobe & 888/809-3030): Oak Creek home has been a model of South- Canyon, near Sedona, where you’ll western elegance since it opened as a find this collection of luxurious cot- B&B in 1988. The inn has lovely gar- tages, is an oasis in the desert. Few dens, comfortable rooms, and a spa, experiences are more restorative than as well as complete massage and facial breakfast on the shady banks of the treatments. The newest rooms have creek. See p. 508. heated Saltillo tile floors, gas kiva • The Inn at 410 (Flagstaff, AZ; fireplaces, and jetted tubs. The older & 800/774-2008): This restored section is delightful as well, with 1907 bungalow offers a convenient more of an antique feel. See p. 206. location in downtown Flagstaff, • The Royal Elizabeth (Tucson, AZ; pleasant surroundings, comfortable & 877/670-9022): In downtown rooms, and delicious breakfasts. Tucson just a block from the Temple Rooms feature different, distinctive of Music and Art, this Territorial- themes, and eight of them have their style historic home is filled with own fireplaces. See p. 527. beautiful Victorian antiques and • Cochise Stronghold B&B (Cochise architectural details. Guest rooms County, AZ; & 877/426-4141): have lots of touches not often seen in Surrounded by the national forest historic B&Bs, including “vintage” and mountainsides strewn with giant phones, TVs, fridges, and safes. See boulders, this B&B is one of the p. 349. state’s most remote inns. The passive • La Zarzuela (Tucson; & 888/848- solar building was built from straw 8225): Perched high on a hill on the bales and is not only energy-efficient west side of Tucson, this luxurious but also quite beautiful. See p. 481. B&B boasts great views, colorful

8 The Best Places to Savor Southwest Flavors • The Compound (Santa Fe, NM; halibut, and calamari) served with & 505/982-4353): This reincarna- peas and potatoes, or seared Por- tion of one of Santa Fe’s classic tuguese pork tenderloin with chorizo restaurants serves daring contempo- and crispy potatoes, will please rary American food. Such delicacies sophisticated palates and probably as a seafood pan roast (black bass, simpler ones, too. See p. 154. 05_59883x ch01.qxd 10/27/05 11:51 PM Page 15

THE BEST PLACES TO SAVOR SOUTHWEST FLAVORS 15 • Santacafé (Santa Fe, NM; & 505/ Tucson’s premier restaurants. It’s just 984-1788): The food is Southwest- outside the front door of the Westin ern with an Asian flair, and the mini- La Paloma resort, and is as formal a malist decor accentuates the beautiful place as you’ll find in this city. J Bar architecture of the 18th-century is Janos’s less formal bar and grill. See Padre Gallegos House. The dishes p. 364 and p. 366. change according to the seasons. One • Terra Cotta (Tucson, AZ; & 520/ of my favorites is seared chile-garlic 577-8100): Café Terra Cotta was one prawns served with fresh pea (or of Arizona’s pioneers in the realm of lima) and mushroom risotto. See Southwestern cuisine. The beautiful, p. 157. art-filled restaurant in the Tucson • Diane’s Bakery & Cafe (Silver City, foothills continues to serve creative NM; & 505/538-8722): Diane Bar- and reasonably priced meals. See rett, who was once a pastry chef at La p. 366. Traviata and Eldorado in Santa Fe, • Cowboy Club Grille & Spirits has brought refined flavors to the lit- (Sedona, AZ; & 928/282-4200): In tle mining town of Silver City. You’ll the building where the Cowboy feast on sumptuous baked goods and Artists of America organization was sophisticated meals such as rack of founded, this thoroughly Western lamb. See p. 338. restaurant is a great place to try such • Roaring Fork (Scottsdale, AZ; Arizona specialties as buffalo filet & 480/947-0795): Roaring Fork’s mignon, rattlesnake, and cactus fries. chef, Robert McGrath, has long been See p. 511. one of the most creative chefs in the • The Turquoise Room (Winslow, Phoenix area. The atmosphere is AZ; & 928/289-2888): Located in lively, and everything from the bread the little-visited town of Winslow in basket and bar snacks to the entrees the restored La Posada historic hotel, and desserts shows an attention to this restaurant conjures up the days detail. See p. 418. when the wealthy still traveled by • Janos/J Bar (Tucson, AZ; & 520/ railroad. Rarely will you find such 615-6100): Serving a combination of excellent meals in such an off-the- regional and Southwestern dishes, beaten-path locale. See p. 100. Janos has for many years been one of