Dress and Identity Among the Black Tai of Loei Province, Thailand
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DRESS AND IDENTITY AMONG THE BLACK TAI OF LOEI PROVINCE, THAILAND Franco Amantea Bachelor of Arts, Simon Fraser University 2003 THESIS SUBMITTED 1N PARTIAL FULFILLMENT OF THE REQUIREMENTS FOR THE DEGREE OF MASTER OF ARTS In the Department of Sociology and Anthropology O Franco Amantea 2007 SIMON FRASER UNIVERSITY 2007 All rights reserved. This work may not be reproduced in whole or in part, by photocopy or other means, without permission of the author. APPROVAL Name: Franco Amantea Degree: Master of Arts Title of Thesis: Dress and Identity Among the Black Tai of Loei Province, Thailand Examining Committee: Chair: Dr. Gerardo Otero Professor of Sociology Dr. Michael Howard Senior Supervisor Professor of Anthropology Dr. Marilyn Gates Supervisor Associate Professor of Anthropology Dr. Brian Hayden External Examiner Professor of Archaeology Date Defended: July 25,2007 Declaration of Partial Copyright Licence The author, whose copyright is declared on the title page of this work, has granted to Simon Fraser University the right to lend this thesis, project or extended essay to users of the Simon Fraser University Library, and to make partial or single copies only for such users or in response to a request from the library of any other university, or other educational institution, on its own behalf or for one of its users. 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Simon Fraser University Library Burnaby, BC, Canada Revised: Summer 2007 STATEMENT OF ETHICS APPROVAL The author, whose name appears on the title page of this work, has obtained, for the research described in this work, either: (a)Human research ethics approval from the Simon Fraser University Office of Research Ethics, (b) Advance approval of the animal care protocol from the University Animal Care Committee of Simon Fraser University; or has conducted the research (c) as a co-investigator, in a research project approved in advance, (d) as a member of a course approved in advance for minimal risk human research, by the Office of Research Ethics. A copy of the approval letter has been filed at the Theses Office of the University Library at the time of submission of this thesis or project. The original application for approval and letter of approval are filed with the relevant offices. Inquiries may be directed to those authorities. Bennett Library Simon Fraser University Burnaby, BC, Canada Last revwon Summer 2007 ABSTRACT This thesis examines dress, textiles, and identity of the Tai Dam or Black Tai living in Loei Province, Northeastern Thailand. The thesis focuses on the contemporary role of traditional and tradition-based Black Tai textiles and dress as material and symbolic representations of Black Tai ethnic and socio-cultural identity. The ethnographic research utilizing participant observation, interviews, observation of behaviour and interactions provided a wealth of information for analysis. The interpretive analysis of textiles and ethnic dress reveals that dress and textiles serve a crucial role in ethnic and cultural continuity among the Black Tai peoples; however a number of types of traditional textiles have been lost due to acculturation and commercialization. Textiles continue to figure prominently in the religious beliefs and practices of the Tai Dam as well as serving as markers of status, functioning to promote cultural and social cohesion, and more recently serving as a means of economic development. Keywords: Dress, textiles, identity, participant observation, ethnography Subject Terms: Black Tai or Tai Dam, Thailand, cultural continuity, acculturation 5% my fami4 for their enhss support andencouragement. ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS I offer my enduring gratitude and appreciation to the faculty, staff and my fellow students at SFU Department of Sociology and Anthropology. I owe particular thanks to Dr. Michael Howard my supervisor, mentor and friend. This project would not have been possible without his continual advice, guidance and knowledge. I would also like to thank Dr. Marilyn Gates for her commitment and support on my endeavour. I thank Dr. Michael Howard and Dr. Marilyn Gates for encouraging my aspirations for my fieldwork project. And Dr. Bryan Hayden for his critical insights and suggestions for the betterment of my thesis. Also, Dr. Gerardo Otero for chairing the defense and offering his suggestions. I also thank Kim Be Howard for her continual encouragement and advice for my project. Special thanks are owed to the villagers in Ban Napanad whose support in this project and hospitality towards me make me forever grateful. I thank the faculty at the Research Institute of Northeastern Art and Culture at Mahasarakham University for their sponsorship and support of my research project and a special thanks to Dr. Songkoon Chantachon, Director and Dr. Wannasakpliji Boonserm. I also thank Mr.Anon Uankham and Mrs. Wilasinee Uankham and family for their help during my fieldwork. TABLE OF CONTENTS .. Approval ............................................................................................................................11 ... Abstract .............................................................................................................................111 Dedication ......................................................................................................................... iv Acknowledgements ........................................................................................................... v Table of Contents ............................................................................................................. vi ... List of Figures ................................................................................................................. VIII .. List of Tables ...................................................................................................................XII .. List of Maps .....................................................................................................................xn Chapter 1: Introduction ...................................................................................................1 Textiles and ldentity ........................................................................................................4 Methodology and Fieldwork .........................................................................................11 Ethical Considerations ...............................................................................................14 Organization of the Thesis ............................................................................................15 Album One ....................................................................................................................16 Chapter 2: The Black Tai ............................................................................................... 18 Black Tai Society of Northwestern Vietnam ................................................................22 The Black Tai of Ban Napanad .................................................................................23 Album Two ....................................................................................................................33 Chapter 3: Textiles and Dress ........................................................................................ 37 Studies of Black Tai Textiles ........................................................................................37 Textiles in Ban Napanad ...........................................................................................43 Traditional Male Dress .........................................................................................47 Traditional Female Dress ......................................................................................50 Other Textiles .......................................................................................................56 Summary 60 Album Three ..................................................................................................................62