Siren Call PARIS — Valentino’S Collections Are Nothing If Not Rich-Looking, and His Fall Couture Looks Were True to Form
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PERRY ELLIS TRUCE/2 CALVIN’S HOUSE PARTY/8-9 Global Edition WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’TUESDAY Daily Newspaper • July 13, 2004 • $2.00 Ready-to-Wear/Textiles Siren Call PARIS — Valentino’s collections are nothing if not rich-looking, and his fall couture looks were true to form. Their opulence, in fact, reflected an unabashed delight in luxury that was utterly appealing, especially in these trying times. Arresting evening looks are always a mainstay of the couture, and fur, frills and crystal tassels punctuated many of Valentino’s dramatic gowns this season. Here, his racy fur and lamé-detailed siren dress. For more of Paris’ night beauties, see pages 6 and 7. A&F’s Makeover Mode: Chain’s New Concept May Chase Older Crowd By David Moin NEW YORK — Abercrombie & Fitch has remade its catalogue. Now it wants to remake its audience. Beginning next month, A&F launches a new chain to start chasing another crowd, a customer that has maybe shopped A&F for years but has grown up, graduated from college, seeks more sophisticated styles and may be turned off by the A&F brand after years of loyalty. The first four test stores of the start-up chain, dubbed internally Concept Four, will be launched in different parts of the country to measure reaction from a cross See A&F, Page20 PHOTO BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI GIOVANNI PHOTO BY 2 WWD/GLOBAL, JULY 2004 WWW.WWD.COM WWDTUESDAY Perry Ellis Acts to Retain Robinson Ready-to-Wear/Textiles By Eric Wilson wear, could tread into the terri- FASHION tory of Public Clothing, its Great evening looks have always played an important role in haute couture, NEW YORK — Perry Ellis Inter- women’s sportswear licensee 6 and the highly focused fall collections were no exception. national is in talks to hire design- since March 2002, or into that of er Patrick Robinson from its bet- other women’s licensees. ter sportswear licensee, Public However, executives from the GENERAL Clothing Co., and to launch its two firms are trying to work out a Abercrombie & Fitch is launching a new chain aimed at an older shopper own women’s collection business. solution that would keep Robin- 1 and will open four test stores in different parts of the country this year. The move would resolve a son attached to the brand since a Perry Ellis International is in talks to hire designer Patrick Robinson from its disagreement between Robinson dispute arose last month over the sportswear licensee, Public Clothing Co., and launch its own women’s line. and Public Clothing over the di- direction of the line. Robinson, 2 rection of the collection. PEI’s hired by Public Clothing in April Marks & Spencer chief executive officer Stuart Rose wooed shareholders proposal would allow Robinson 2003, had hoped to build Perry 3 with a $4.28 billion cash promise to rebuff a takeover attempt by Philip Green. to continue designing under the Ellis as a force in the women’s Saks Fifth Avenue has landed Oscar winner Charlize Theron to appear in Perry Ellis label with a more contemporary market for special- 4 ads promoting its Key to the Cure initiative this fall. contemporary edge, while Pub- Patrick ty stores, alongside labels such as lic Clothing would keep produc- Robinson Marc by Marc Jacobs, rather than TEXTILES: Faced with unfavorable currency exchange rates, European yarn ing a more mainstream collec- on the better floors of main- 12 spinners at Pitti Filati focused on developing luxe products for fall 2005. tion in the better market with Although Perry Ellis officials stream department stores. RTW: Winter Hodges maps out plans to launch Winter & Migs and relaunch Robinson’s guidance. would not confirm their plans on PEI, which has been trying to Bumi Sirotka...UGG Australia signs a pact for its first outerwear line. It would be the first time for Monday, several people involved revive the historic sportswear 21 Perry Ellis to make its own high- in the talks said the proposed label’s prospects in the women’s end women’s sportswear since change in Robinson’s employment wear market for the past few EYE 1993, when the line was discon- had marked a turning point in the years, is effectively offering to Calvin Klein’s housewarming party brought a diverse group to his tinued after dismal retail reac- tone of negotiations between the give Robinson that creative out- Southampton beach abode and a wild night was had by all. tion to the infamous “grunge” designer and the two companies. let. According to those familiar 8 collections of Marc Jacobs. “In the last week, I’ve felt with the negotiations, as an em- Classified Advertisements ..................................................................22-23 more positive that everything is ployee of PEI, Robinson would going in the right direction and produce his own high-end Perry To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is that I will have a long-term con- Ellis collection and also would [email protected], using the individual’s name. tract with Perry Ellis within the be involved in choosing a presi- WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPYRIGHT ©2004 next few weeks,” Robinson said. dent of that line, as well as over- FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. Dan Shamdasani, chief execu- see licensed women’s products, VOLUME 188, NO. 8. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional tive officer of Public Clothing Co., where he would continue to issue in January, May, June and November; two additional issues in February, April, September, October and December; and three additional issues in March and August, by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 7 would not comment on the plan, work with Public Clothing on the West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; but said, “I’m a great supporter of design of its product. Steven T. Florio, Vice Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, C.O.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice-President and C.F.O.; Jill Bright, Patrick and we are looking at an Robinson’s line would be tar- Executive Vice-President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice-President_ Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, Senior Vice-President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice-President_Real Estate; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice- enhanced role for him.” geted to retailers such as Henri President_General Manager, Advance Magazine Group Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at The proposal is unusual be- Bendel and Bergdorf Goodman, additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40032712. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration cause, by producing its own while Public Clothing would sell No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: 4960-2 Walker Road, Windsor, ON N9A 6J3. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. Perry Ellis women’s sportswear, to department stores such as FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR PEI, which focuses on men’s Macy’s and Bloomingdale’s. DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four weeks is required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive Specify TAC on your Tech Packs these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART & see the Savings! WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED OVERNIGHT-DELIVERY RETURN ENVELOPE, POSTAGE PREPAID. In Brief ● MAO RELOCATES: MAO PR, the company that offers the alter- native show venue MAO Space, is in the game for a fourth sea- son. The space will relocate to the Altman Building at 135 West 18th Street from last season’s location at the Atlas Building. Nevertheless, MAO aims to be a boon to newer designers who can show in the 10,000- square-foot space (seats 400 to 800 peo- ple) for $7,500, which is significantly less than the least-expen- sive venue at Bryant Park, priced at $18,500. MAO Space offers slots from Sept. 8-13, and the deadline for submission is July 30. ● LEE PROMOTES LYNCH: Lee Jeans named Bill Lynch vice president and general manager of Lee Misses’ Petites and Women’s. He fills a vacancy created when the division of VF Corp.