PERRY ELLIS TRUCE/2 CALVIN’S HOUSE PARTY/8-9 Global Edition WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’TUESDAY Daily Newspaper • July 13, 2004 • $2.00 Ready-to-Wear/ Siren Call PARIS — Valentino’s collections are nothing if not rich-looking, and his fall couture looks were true to form. Their opulence, in fact, reflected an unabashed delight in luxury that was utterly appealing, especially in these trying times. Arresting evening looks are always a mainstay of the couture, and fur, frills and crystal tassels punctuated many of Valentino’s dramatic gowns this season. Here, his racy fur and lamé-detailed siren dress. For more of Paris’ night beauties, see pages 6 and 7.

A&F’s Makeover Mode: Chain’s New Concept May Chase Older Crowd By David Moin NEW YORK — Abercrombie & Fitch has remade its catalogue. Now it wants to remake its audience. Beginning next month, A&F launches a new chain to start chasing another crowd, a customer that has maybe shopped A&F for years but has grown up, graduated from college, seeks more sophisticated styles and may be turned off by the A&F brand after years of loyalty. The first four test stores of the start-up chain, dubbed internally Concept Four, will be launched in different parts of the country to measure reaction from a cross See A&F, Page20 PHOTO BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI GIOVANNI PHOTO BY 2 WWD/GLOBAL, JULY 2004 WWW.WWD.COM WWDTUESDAY Perry Ellis Acts to Retain Robinson Ready-to-Wear/Textiles By Eric Wilson wear, could tread into the terri- FASHION tory of Public Clothing, its Great evening looks have always played an important role in haute couture, NEW YORK — Perry Ellis Inter- women’s sportswear licensee 6 and the highly focused fall collections were no exception. national is in talks to hire design- since March 2002, or into that of er Patrick Robinson from its bet- other women’s licensees. ter sportswear licensee, Public However, executives from the GENERAL Clothing Co., and to launch its two firms are trying to work out a Abercrombie & Fitch is launching a new chain aimed at an older shopper own women’s collection business. solution that would keep Robin- 1 and will open four test stores in different parts of the country this year. The move would resolve a son attached to the brand since a Perry Ellis International is in talks to hire designer Patrick Robinson from its disagreement between Robinson dispute arose last month over the sportswear licensee, Public Clothing Co., and launch its own women’s line. and Public Clothing over the di- direction of the line. Robinson, 2 rection of the collection. PEI’s hired by Public Clothing in April Marks & Spencer chief executive officer Stuart Rose wooed shareholders proposal would allow Robinson 2003, had hoped to build Perry 3 with a $4.28 billion cash promise to rebuff a takeover attempt by Philip Green. to continue designing under the Ellis as a force in the women’s Saks Fifth Avenue has landed Oscar winner Charlize Theron to appear in Perry Ellis label with a more contemporary market for special- 4 ads promoting its Key to the Cure initiative this fall. contemporary edge, while Pub- Patrick ty stores, alongside labels such as lic Clothing would keep produc- Robinson Marc by Marc Jacobs, rather than TEXTILES: Faced with unfavorable currency exchange rates, European ing a more mainstream collec- on the better floors of main- 12 spinners at Pitti Filati focused on developing luxe products for fall 2005. tion in the better market with Although Perry Ellis officials stream department stores. RTW: Winter Hodges maps out plans to launch Winter & Migs and relaunch Robinson’s guidance. would not confirm their plans on PEI, which has been trying to Bumi Sirotka...UGG Australia signs a pact for its first outerwear line. It would be the first time for Monday, several people involved revive the historic sportswear 21 Perry Ellis to make its own high- in the talks said the proposed label’s prospects in the women’s end women’s sportswear since change in Robinson’s employment wear market for the past few EYE 1993, when the line was discon- had marked a turning point in the years, is effectively offering to Calvin Klein’s housewarming party brought a diverse group to his tinued after dismal retail reac- tone of negotiations between the give Robinson that creative out- Southampton beach abode and a wild night was had by all. tion to the infamous “grunge” designer and the two companies. let. According to those familiar 8 collections of Marc Jacobs. “In the last week, I’ve with the negotiations, as an em- Classified Advertisements ...... 22-23 more positive that everything is ployee of PEI, Robinson would going in the right direction and produce his own high-end Perry To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is that I will have a long-term con- Ellis collection and also would [email protected], using the individual’s name.

tract with Perry Ellis within the be involved in choosing a presi- WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPYRIGHT ©2004 next few weeks,” Robinson said. dent of that line, as well as over- FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. Dan Shamdasani, chief execu- see licensed women’s products, VOLUME 188, NO. 8. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional tive officer of Public Clothing Co., where he would continue to issue in January, May, June and November; two additional issues in February, April, September, October and December; and three additional issues in March and August, by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 7 would not comment on the plan, work with Public Clothing on the West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; but said, “I’m a great supporter of design of its product. Steven T. Florio, Vice Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, C.O.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice-President and C.F.O.; Jill Bright, Patrick and we are looking at an Robinson’s line would be tar- Executive Vice-President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice-President_ Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, Senior Vice-President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice-President_Real Estate; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice- enhanced role for him.” geted to retailers such as Henri President_General Manager, Advance Magazine Group Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at The proposal is unusual be- Bendel and , additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40032712. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration cause, by producing its own while Public Clothing would sell No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: 4960-2 Walker Road, Windsor, ON N9A 6J3. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. Perry Ellis women’s sportswear, to department stores such as FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR PEI, which focuses on men’s Macy’s and Bloomingdale’s. DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four weeks is required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive Specify TAC on your Tech Packs these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART & see the Savings! WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED OVERNIGHT-DELIVERY RETURN ENVELOPE, POSTAGE PREPAID. In Brief

● MAO RELOCATES: MAO PR, the company that offers the alter- native show venue MAO Space, is in the game for a fourth sea- son. The space will relocate to the Altman Building at 135 West 18th Street from last season’s location at the Atlas Building. Nevertheless, MAO aims to be a boon to newer designers who can show in the 10,000- square-foot space (seats 400 to 800 peo- ple) for $7,500, which is significantly less than the least-expen- sive venue at Bryant Park, priced at $18,500. MAO Space offers slots from Sept. 8-13, and the deadline for submission is July 30.

● LEE PROMOTES LYNCH: Lee Jeans named Bill Lynch vice president and general manager of Lee Misses’ Petites and Women’s. He fills a vacancy created when the division of VF Corp. named Steve Birkhold president of its Earl Jean unit. Lynch, who joined Lee in 1996, last served as national account sales manager for Lee’s Sears, Roebuck & Co. business. He will move from Hoffman Estates, Ill., where Sears is based, to Lee’s central office in Merriam, Kan., for his new role. He reports to Gordon Harton, president of Lee Jeans.

Corrections Caboodles is launching tattoo stencils in metallics this fall. This was reported incorrectly in a story July 2, page 9. ● ● ● Maxwell Shoes produces the AK Anne Klein footwear line, not the Anne Klein New York brand that is under license to a third party. The line was misidentified in a quote in a story Thursday, page 2. ● ● ● An advertorial on Turkish fabric suppliers on June 29, page 15, Production Locations: “Turkish Fabric Exports on the Rise,” had incorrect dates for Bangladesh, Cambodia, Central America, China, Turkish companies participating in upcoming fabric shows. The London Turkish Fabric Show will be Aug. 17-18 and Premiere Dubai, Hong Kong, India, Indonesia, Israel, Korea, Mexico, Vision in Paris will be Sept. 21-24. Nuri Artok, who was quoted, is no longer chairman of the Istanbul and Apparel Pakistan, Sri Lanka, Turkey, Taiwan, Thailand, USA, Vietnam Exporters Associations. The new chairman is Ismail Gulle. WWD/GLOBAL, JULY 2004 3 WWW.WWD.COM MEMO PAD THE WEEKLY GRIND: Bonnie Fuller is long gone from Us Weekly, but evidently her spirit lingers on: The turnover just keeps turning. A number of editorial staffers have handed in their notices in recent weeks, and more may be on the way as one-year contracts offered to keep Us staffers from following Fuller to Janice Min Our core customers have Star come up for renewal. In a “ telling sign, two of the latest departees, senior editor Jeremy Helligar been neglected, confused and TV editor April Bernard, left without new jobs lined up, as did beauty editor Gina Way, who quit in April. Burnout appears to be the and disappointed. major cause for disgruntlement. Helligar, who spent two years at Us, — Stuart Rose, Marks” & Spencer said he plans to take at least a month off to recover after he leaves at the end of July. “I worked at People for eight years and it wasn’t nearly as intense and exhausting as this experience has been,” he said. “Most of the people there are dissatisfied, and management doesn’t seem to be paying any attention,” added former copy editor Amélie Cherlin, who jumped to fashion start-up Shop Etc. PHOTO BY NEWSCAST It’s not just the relatively small size of Us’ staff that has people feeling overworked, but the composition: With two executive editors in New York, a third in Los Angeles and special projects editor Sarah Pyper functioning as a fourth, Us is extremely top-heavy. “The bureaucracy is staggering,” said a staffer. “You have the same number of people doing Rose, Green Pitch for M&S the work, except now there are more top editors weighing in.” Despite the high levels of whining, most Us staffers, current and By Samantha Conti financial records. former, acknowledge that life is still better under editor in chief Janice “Time is running short,” Green said. “We are Min than it was under Fuller, when weekly closes routinely stretched LONDON — Stuart Rose, the new chief executive fully financed. This is the moment for sharehold- of Marks & Spencer plc, wooed shareholders ers to appeal to the M&S board, which has fobbed until daybreak. (The norm now is 2 a.m. to 3 a.m.) Min told WWD Monday with a cash promise of $4.28 billion (2.3 us off for six weeks. They now need to make their yesterday that she does not think Us has a morale problem and cited billion pounds) to rebuff a takeover attempt of the feelings known to M&S. Otherwise, we will have the magazine’s continuing growth. “It’s a lot of work putting out a ailing retailer by billionaire tycoon Philip Green, no alternative but to pack up and go away.” successful magazine, and the competitive environment has really who countered with his own appeal. Green provided the details of his latest bid — amped up in the past year,” she said. “There are always people who As Rose, speaking publicly for the first time he has secured up to $20.64 billion (11.1 billion thrive on competitiveness and an intense work environment and people about his vision for the retailer, outlined a series pounds) in financing — and offered up his broad who don’t.” — Jeff Bercovici of cost-cutting, margin-boosting strategies, Green vision for M&S. “The store environment needs an asked shareholders during a conference call to uplift, and the supply chain needs to be torn MATERIAL WITNESS: An exclusive pressure the company to open its books. apart,’’ he said. “Speed to market is so important interview with Madonna is a nice Most of the major shareholders will meet com- today.” get. An exclusive interview with pany executives this week to discuss Rose’s plan. This is Green’s second run for the store since someone who has interviewed In addition, Rose will address shareholders at 2000. Green, a hands-on merchant and owner of Madonna? That’s another story. M&S’ annual general meeting Wednesday. Green the BHS and Arcadia clothing and general mer- The chameleonic chanteuse has shareholders representing at least 20 percent chandise groups, was forced to drop his last bid appears, sporting a black wig of M&S on his side. Now he wants the rest to step after it was disclosed that his wife, Tina, had and fishnets, on the cover of the up and support him. British regulators have set an bought shares before the announcement that he July/August issue of Jason Binn’s Aug. 6 deadline for Green to make a formal offer planned to buy the store. Ocean Drive magazine. The for the chain or give up his bid. Rose said his plan would deliver value “in ex- accompanying cover story, Analysts were stress-testing Rose’s numbers to cess” of 4 pounds per share. “Six weeks ago, we see how they compared with Green’s 4 pounds per sat down and said: ‘What is the art of the possi- however, is a Q&A, not with share. “Rose has given us good financial details, ble? What can we deliver?’ Here it is. Now it’s up Madonna herself, but with and we think he can deliver $7.81 [4.20 pounds] to to the analysts.” celebrity journalist Jeanne Wolf, $7.99 [4.30 pounds] per share,” said Rupert Rose is seeking shareholders’ support as he who answers questions such as, Trotter, an analyst at Isis Asset Management, an tries to get the company back on its feet. The cash “Is her real name Madonna?” M&S shareholder. “Then again, there’s always the return to shareholders would come via a tender and “What was her relationship risk M&S won’t come through. We’re still adjust- offer equivalent to $1.86 (1 pound) per share. The with her father?” The interview ing our models, so no decisions today.” deal would be funded by the proceeds from the originally aired on the E! cable Another leading institutional shareholder said: sale of M&S’ financial services arm to HSBC — network. Wolf, who chatted up Michael Moore for the same issue, pulled “If you take an optimistic look at what was said also announced on Monday. the transcript out of the drawer when Madonna declined to be today, M&S has just about done enough to survive The Rose proposal is intended to produce sav- interviewed, citing timing as her excuse. Wolf insists the story is not a a bid by Green. But we need time to go through ings of $465 million (250 million pounds) in the write-around, noting that Madonna’s publicists provided the photography the numbers, because there’s a lot in there. We’re 2005-2006 fiscal year, and $595 million (320 million (drawn from promotional materials for her current tour) for the cover and planning to meet the M&S people later this pounds) the following year from more favorable story. “This was a totally authorized article in the sense that they knew we week.” deals with suppliers, a more efficient supply were doing it, they knew it was going to be on the cover, they knew I was Richard England, a spokesman for Standard chain, reduced clothing markdowns and lower writing it and they knew I had seen the show,” she said. “I could do write- Life Investments, an M&S shareholder, said the food waste. arounds with my eyes shut. I thought this approach had more vitality to company would make its final decision in the next M&S has agreed to buy the successful Per Una it.” Ocean Drive’s editor in chief, Glenn Albin, said he was happy just to couple of days. women’s clothing line from its founder George get exclusive access to the cover photo. “Madonna is a little bigger maybe “Our core customers have been neglected, con- Davies to pocket the profits directly. The line, fused and disappointed,’’ Rose said during a pres- which sells through M&S stores, generated $31.62 than what we could get at the last minute,” he said. — J.B. entation to about 75 journalists at Canary Wharf. million (17 million pounds) in profits last year. “There are too many segments, too many initia- The store will also get a new campaign in SHOP, DROP & ROLL: Further evidence that Hearst’s forthcoming Shop tives and not enough support for the core brand. September called “Your M&S” aimed at the 35 to Etc. is only nominally a glossy: Editor in chief Mandi Norwood has hired The parts of this business are less than the whole. 55 age group that Rose believes the store has sore- interior designer Randall Ridless — who designs Burberry stores “We now need to focus on the product — and ly neglected. Other M&S projects will be axed. internationally and is currently putting the touches on the the customer,” said Rose, 55, who began his career Lifestore, the much-touted home furnishings proj- first- and second-floor renovations at Bergdorf Goodman — to stage in the retailer’s food division and was picked to ect masterminded by Vittorio Radice and the magazine’s launch party at Milk Gallery in ’s lead M&S six weeks ago after a boardroom shake- launched earlier this year, will shut in January. Meatpacking District early next month. “It will feel like a high-end up in the wake of Green’s first moves in the The rollout of some stand-alone Simply Food store crossed with a cool nightclub,” said Ridless. In the transformed takeover attempt. stores will also be halted. 6,000-square-foot space, fashion, beauty and home items from the Rose said he has no plans to step aside for M&S said that trading in the first quarter rose pages of the magazine will be arranged at designated vendor outposts, Green. “This is a great, highly valued business 0.7 percent, with a decrease in every division ex- where invitees will be able to shop for products in lieu of pre-stuffed and Philip Green knows it — otherwise he would- cept for food, which rose 3.9 percent. Clothing goodie bags. The Milk Studios facade also will be made over to look n’t have come knocking three times,” Rose said sales dropped 0.5 percent and the home dipped like a department store, complete with display windows. Said executive after the presentation. 12.8 percent. marketing director Lori Rhodes: “[Randy] will be creating a shopping Last week, M&S rejected the latest — and final Gateshead, the Lifestore flagship that has as its environment with a number of surprises — the only thing missing will — bid proposal from Green, who offered $7.44 (4 centerpiece a home designed by John Pawson, be dressing rooms.” Well, that and the checkout counters. Ridless also pounds) per share in cash or $6.23 (3.35 pounds) will be shuttered by the end of January. Kingston, will design the Shop Etc. guerrilla stores coinciding with the spring per share, and a 30 percent equity stub in a new, a smaller unit, will open as a home furnishings publicly listed M&S business. M&S said it under- store while the unit in Thurrock has been can- 2005 fashion weeks in New York and L.A. valued the store’s potential. celed. In other Shop news, Karen Catchpole, formerly a senior editor at During a conference call on Monday night, Rose also announced that the recently reval- Jane (like WWD, part of Advance Publications Inc.), has joined the Green said he could exercise due diligence in ued M&S property portfolio is now worth $6.69 publication as deputy editor. — Sara James seven to 10 days, and formalize a bid before the billion (3.6 billion pounds), or $2.6 billion (1.4 bil- deadline, but first needs to examine the retailer’s lion pounds) above its book value. 4 WWD/GLOBAL, JULY 2004 WWW.WWD.COM Theron Stars in Saks’ Fund-Raiser

By Eric Wilson “To have a high-profile female associated with this ini- Charlize Theron tiative every year is so helpful in bringing attention to the NEW YORK — After landing Nicole Kidman as the star in a T-shirt cause,” said Fred Wilson, chief executive officer of Saks of its first Key to the Cure campaign last year and rais- designed by Fifth Avenue Enterprises. “The whole notion of this is to ing more than $3 million for cancer research, Saks Fifth Marc Jacobs for be effective in combating this disease that is so damaging Avenue executives were left wondering how they could the Saks Fifth to females, and part of this is not only bringing attention possibly do better in 2004. Avenue Key to to the cause, but also trying to do something concrete.” “The question was, ‘How can you top that?’” said the Cure Lisa Paulsen, president and ceo of EIF, said the Key to Michael Macko, director of fashion merchandising for campaign. the Cure campaign was one of the organization’s most suc- men’s at Saks Fifth Avenue. “And the answer was by get- cessful launches, raising funds that will be used to further ting this year’s Oscar winner for Best Actress.” the study of biomarker discovery for early detection of Charlize Theron, who won the award for her role in breast and ovary cancers, a project of the Women’s Cancer “Monster,” will appear in advertisements promoting the Research Fund established by Kelly Chapman Meyer, retailer’s Key to the Cure initiative. The Saks’ annual Anne Douglas, Quinn Ezralow, Marion Laurie and Jamie fund-raising program for the second year will benefit Tisch, and chaired by Rita Wilson and Kate Capshaw. the Entertainment Industry Foundation and its The ads featuring Theron and the Jacobs T-shirt will Women’s Cancer Research Fund. appear in fashion and lifestyle magazines in October is- Theron will appear in a T-shirt designed by Marc sues. In addition, Mercedes-Benz USA, which donated Jacobs that will be produced in a run of about 25,000 and $1 million last year by creating a special vehicle for the will be sold for $35 at Saks stores around the country to initiative that was sold at dealerships around the coun- benefit the charities. Like Kidman, Theron joined the try, will again design a special edition of its SLK350 campaign through EIF, which has rallied celebrities for roadster that will be available in September. various charitable initiatives during its 63-year history. A new partner this year is Hanes, which is donating the Since Saks began its women’s cancer research pro- T-shirts and production so that the entire $35 retail price gram five years ago, the company has raised more than will go directly to the charities. The shirts, a long-sleeve $13 million for charities. Last fall, Saks introduced its cus- style featuring a motif of swirled clouds from which a hand tom designed T-shirt initiative with a boat-neck style from extends, bearing a pink key, will be featured in all 64 Saks Stella McCartney, which sold more than 17,000 units. In Fifth Avenue doors around the country, in kiosks with cen- addition to the Marc Jacobs T-shirt this year, Saks will re- tral placement, Macko said. The company again plans to peat its four-day shopping weekend, Oct. 14-17, during promote the cause by sending T-shirts to celebrities and which 2 percent of sales at all stores and at its saks.com stylists, hoping to replicate the success of similar efforts Web site will be donated to local and national breast and last year that placed shirts on the hosts of “The View,” women’s reproductive cancer research centers. “The Today Show’’ and “The Ellen DeGeneres Show.” Twice as Nice: Lancaster Grows Jil Sander Pure Line By Melissa Drier sensual blend of sandalwood, vanilla caster is also considering an outdoor and mahogany. campaign in key areas. HAMBURG, Germany — Lancaster is “When we did the three [notes], I The launch will be further supported taking it two steps at a time in building found I could almost wear them alone, by “massive sampling” in the form of up the Jil Sander Pure fragrance family. especially the drydown. They interact, miniatures, and so-called fragrance foun- In September, both Jil Sander Pure talk and respond to each other,” the per- tains with integrated self-service testers. for Men and Jil Sander Pure Intense fumeur remarked. Jil Sander Pure will hit the shelves of 2,500 perfumeries The product line Woman Intense was and department stores in Germany, Jil consists of 50-ml. and composed by Nathalie Sander fragrances’ largest market. The 100-ml. eau de toilette BEAUTY BEAT Lorson. The eau de new men’s scent will also be launched at sprays priced at about parfum has a fresh top that time in Austria, Switzerland and $55, or 46 euros, and $75, or 62 euros, re- note of white peach, jasmine petals and the Benelux countries, followed by Italy spectively. There is also a 100-ml. after- pepper. New airy molecules make up in early February. shave lotion splash at $50, or 42 euros, a the heart, and the sensual drydown is It is the first time Lancaster has si- 100-ml. after-shave balm at $42, or 35 made up of sandalwood, cedar, vanilla, multaneously launched a men’s fra- euros, a 200-ml. allover shampoo for $23, musk and tonka beans. The 50-ml. eau grance and women’s flanker under one or 19.50 euros, a deodorant spray for de parfum is priced at $67, or 56 euros. brand. Jil Sander Pure, the women’s fra- $26, or 22 euros, and a deodorant stick To underscore that Jil Sander Pure grance, had its retail premiere last sum- for $23, or 19 euros. All dollar figures Woman Intense is not an independent mer. “Normally, you bring out something are converted from the euro at current fragrance but rather Jil Sander Pure in new one year later to keep the brand exchange rates. another interpretation, the ad cam- alive,” said Nicole Maier, Jil Sander The bottle, inspired by a flask, was paign is a spin-off of the original visual, product manager in Germany. “But designed by Fabien Baron of Baron & by photographer Mikael Jansson. For Pure, an eau de toilette, is so light and Baron. Clean, architectural and pure in Intense, one sees only a portion of transparent that it made sense to offer line, its front is slightly curved to sit model Vivan Solari’s face as she draws an eau de parfum with a more sensual well in the hand. The back of the bottle the string of her bow. note. And in timing the campaign to- is sandblasted, the Pure logo appearing The bottle is another variation of gether with [Jil Sander Pure for] Men, in transparent block lettering through Fabien Baron’s Pure theme in transpar- one gets much more media support. It’s a good way to build up the Pure uni- verse,” she stated. Sander Pure Intense, it is expected to The trans-Atlantic duo of Nathalie In timing the campaign together with [Jil contribute between 15 and 20 percent of Lorson and Ilias Ermenidis, the “ global Jil Sander Pure retail sales — Firmenich perfumeurs who created Jil Sander Pure for] Men, one gets much more about 8 million euros, or $9.9 million — Sander Pure, teamed up again on Jil sources said. Sander Pure for Men. “Pure is such a media support. It’s a good way to build up While the scents are having a twin feminine and particular olfactory signa- launch, the men’s fragrance is inde- ture, and it was a challenge to translate the Pure universe. pendent, Steffen Siefarth, general man- this into men’s,” Ermenidis said. The ” — Nicole Maier, Jil Sander ager of the Lancaster Group in Ger- first step was to work around the “Pure many, emphasized. molecule,” a transparent molecule cre- “They are not brother and sister, ated by Firmenich that was used com- the clouded surface. ent glass with silver sides. though they fit well together.” The Jil mercially for the first time in Jil Sander David Sims, who has photographed While Lancaster executives wouldn’t Sander fragrance franchise is a strong Pure. It is the molecule, Ermenidis said, the Jil Sander fashion campaigns since reveal first-year sales targets, industry performer in Germany, “and not only for that gives Pure and Pure for Men that 1997, shot the black-and-white print ad. sources estimate Jil Sander Pure for Men women,” he pointed out. “Jil Sander for “fresh air feel.” It was photographed on a yacht off the could do 30 million euros, or $37.2 mil- Men and Jil Sander Sun for Men have A fresh, woody fragrance, Jil Sander Canary Islands and features 21-year-old lion, in retail sales, with half of that com- been very successful, and Sun for Men, Pure for Men has a top note of mandarin, British newcomer Sam Beech gazing in- ing out of Germany. which came out in 2002, did better than juniper and elemeni. The heart features tently ahead. It will be placed in all cur- Indeed, 70 percent of Jil Sander fra- expected and is still going strong.” In the Pure molecule accord, bamboo and rent men’s business and lifestyle maga- grance sales are generated in Germany the meantime, he added, “Jil Sander is musk, and the bottom note, described by zines in Germany, as well as in several and its neighbors, Austria, Switzerland the most successful brand in our portfo- Ermenidis as a “second skin,” is a warm, women’s magazines, Maier said. Lan- and the Benelux countries. As for Jil lio” in Germany. Or, you can go with us.

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Christian Dior Jean-Louis Drama Scherrer Class PARIS — Great evening looks have always played an important role in haute couture, and the highly focused fall season was no exception. After all, many of the gowns could be adapted for the red carpet. From Karl Lagerfeld’s frothy concoction for Chanel to John Galliano’s stylized hourglass dress for Christian Dior to Christian Lacroix’s asymmetric goddess dress, drama and extravagance were the name of the game.

Jean Paul Gaultier WWD/GLOBAL, JULY 2004 7 WWW.WWD.COM

Chado Ralph Rucci Chanel

Christian Lacroix PHOTOS BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI GIOVANNI PHOTOS BY 8 WWD/GLOBAL, JULY 2004

The beachfront at Elysium, Calvin Klein's Meadow Lane estate. House Party Paige Ryan Ashley SOUTHAMPTON, N.Y. — Last with Bush in July, Calvin Klein sprung for a Amanda Miu Miu 55,000-square-foot, Hogwarts- Hearst in with eye® like oceanfront fortress on Teresa Lauren Meadow Lane here for $28.9 Santos. Bush in million. And, perhaps to Zac Posen. honor his one-year anniversary on the 6.7 acres of property, he threw a “housewarming” party for what was rumored to have been around 1,000 guests, but was actually closer to 500. They came from different worlds. There was the spillover from Denise Rich’s big benefit at her estate, Swan’s Way, most notably, and strangely, Reverend Al Sharpton; there were the art stars, such as Chuck Close and Ross Bleckner; the personalities: Barbara Walters, Martha Stewart, David Geffen and Christie Brinkley; the fashion crowd, of course, including Bruce Weber, Diane von Furstenberg, Steven Klein, Craig McDean and Liya Kebede; a gaggle of Southampton socialites who dipped in for a drink and dipped right back out, and the wild children, such as Bijou Phillips, Casey Johnson and Alexandre von Furstenberg, who crossed paths with their own parents or even brought them along. Liya Surprisingly enough, Kathy and Rick Kebede Hilton had no Hilton kin along for this wild ride. In all likelihood, Paris and Nicky were sorely missed, at least by the 100 buff, glowing and game male and female models bussed in for the event — cast and dressed with the same attention to detail befitting a runway show. “What is this party for anyway?” asked Olivia Chantecaille, who brought furniture beau Eric Villency and walked around the house agog, like most everyone else. “Well, I had to have a party here before I tore it down,” said Klein. “And then I’ll have another party when I build it back up again.” The reason Klein decided to rebuild — or, at least, the reason making its way around the party (rumored to have cost $500,000) — is that the King Arthur turrets and the Harry Potter exterior don’t exactly with Klein’s interior makeover. The perfect antidote to benefit fatigue: a party for a party’s sake. Perhaps that’s what David made this evening special, more than even Kelly Klein Geffen the opportunity to traipse through Klein’s WWD/GLOBAL, JULY 2004 9 WWW.WWD.COM

master bedroom and Corbusier-like Martha Stewart, Calvin Christie Brinkley Martha Stewart, Calvin Christie Brinkley bath, decorated, like the rest of the KleinKlein and and Barbara Barbara Walters. Walters and Peter Cook house, in the austere and spare Klein aesthetic. There were no products to promote, no red carpet to trudge down, no paid celebrities on hand, no gift bags and no friends to hit up to buy a table. Upon entering on the arm of a male model, the first step, naturally, was a tour of the property: the choice points of interest being the veranda off Klein’s master bedroom with a stunning view of the beach and the bay; the indoor balcony overlooking the main entrance, where Klein greeted incoming guests, and the caviar table, which, by the evening’s end, had been completely pillaged. (At least one guest mistook the blinis for pancakes, which goes to show that the crowd wasn’t strictly blue blood.) “Amazing,” said Sharpton as he strolled through one wing of the house. It was his third party of the night. “I’ve never seen anything like it.” Aerin Aerin The minimalist, barely furnished Lauder estate has been painted mostly white inin and its floors are cement. Though the Calvin bookshelves are stocked with coffee- Klein table tomes and Theodore Roosevelt and biographies, the artwork — including Levi’s. several photos and etchings of Klein — remains unhung. Only the dining room, with its Calvin-esque table that seats 26, has the original molding. Most guests used the evening to urge Klein not to destroy the property, which he has been remodeling for at least a year. But Peggy Siegal was eager to discuss the demolition process. “How much does it cost to tear down?” she said she’d asked Klein a few weeks prior. “And do they do it with explosives? Do they use a wrecking ball?” She said Klein didn’t respond. The pool area — near the legendary, though now-defunct, shark pit built by a previous owner — didn’t quite ignite until much later in the evening, though Serena Boardman, The exterior of Elysium. The lantern-lit pool area. Fernanda Niven and John Cameron Mitchell mingled there eating Marisa perfectly ripe plums and apricots at Noel and Noel and one time or another. Matt But the tour de force was the Brown beach. Party planner Robert Isabell strung hundreds of paper lanterns (operated via electrical outlets in the sand) for pink-and-yellow-hued light that matched the sunset, and included such amenities for guests as insect repellent; Old Navy flip-flops; sunscreen; pillows, in case anyone wanted to spend the night; a bonfire, and a clambake. Nina Griscom, who reported a complete run on articulated lobster tchotchkes at her Southampton store, lounged around Leslie, Chuck with her boyfriend, Leo Piraino, after a and Maggie Close. long day at the office. Lauren Bush, who’s heading off for a semester in Kathy and Australia to study Aboriginal art, Rick Hilton drank the party’s version of Red Bull — Diet Rockstar — and snapped Eleanor Lembo Reverend Al photos of her teenaged sister, Ashley, inin Balenciaga.Balenciaga. Sharpton and her mother, Sharon. “You know, Red Bull speeds you up and vodka Julia slows you down,” big sis advised the Koch, giggly 15-year-old. Other guests just escorted stood on the shore’s sidelines by a transfixed by the waitstaff-models, male who seemed to be having as good a model. time as the invited guests, if not an even better one. By 1 a.m., Klein’s medieval castle had been transformed into a modern- day frat house. A number of especially resourceful fellows ditched the idea of going back to Manhattan and instead found other places to spend the night. As the evening came to a close, the crowd got what it was waiting for. A few of the waiters stripped down to their skivvies and jumped into the moat. Even this moment, which any partygoer could have predicted as soon as he saw the pool, didn’t reek of Alexandre von Eric Villency with product placement. Furstenberg Olivia Chantecaille “I didn’t see any Calvins,” chuckled and Ally Kaye inin TracyTracy Feith.Feith. one observant guest.

PHOTOS BY DAN D’ERRICO; LAUDER AND HEARST BY PATRICK MCMULLAN PATRICK AND HEARST BY LAUDER DAN D’ERRICO; PHOTOS BY —Marshall Heyman 10 WWD/GLOBAL, JULY 2004 WWW.WWD.COM Te xtile & Trade Report Pricing: A Web of Concern Agricultural Marketing By Evan Clark As oil prices have Services unit of the U.S. NEW YORK — A confluence of increased, so have Department of Agriculture. factors — from the elimina- costs for fiber firms. However, is still at a tion of the quota system on relative high. In May 2003, a Jan. 1 to production overca- pound sold for 54.98 cents. pacity and rising raw material Looking toward future prices — is creating volatility prices, Worsham said the in the cost of producing main question would be and pricing them. whether next year’s cotton In particular, rising oil crop is as good as anticipated. prices in recent months have “The big issue is, will, in pinched the already tight mar- fact, the production get to that gins of synthetic-fiber makers, level,” said Worsham. “The prompting several companies market is saying ‘yes,’ but pro- to try to push through price duction has to rise a fairly sig- increases. Most synthetic nificant amount just to get to fibers, including , that forecast.” and , are made Should something unexpect- from oil-derived chemicals. ed happen, such as poor weath- Last week, nylon maker er, that hurts the cotton crop, Honeywell increased the prices may show some volatility. prices of its nylon textile prod- Cotton isn’t the only fiber ucts by 5 cents a pound be- for which overcapacity is cause of the increasing costs of looming. benzene, a petrochemical “One of the most significant feedstock to nylon production. issues facing the textile indus- “This sharp rise in the try is the significant overca- price of benzene has dramati- pacity of polyester fiber glob- cally impacted raw material ally,” said Joe Carroll, global costs for nylon products,” business manager for DuPont Walter Hubbard, president of Sorona. Honeywell Nylon, said in a Earlier this year, DuPont re- statement. “This has forced us duced its presence in the fiber to reevaluate our pricing for business by selling its Invista

all of our products.” STR/AFP/GETTY IMAGES PHOTO BY unit to Koch Industries. Earlier this year, several “With polyester being the major makers of polyester fila- pricing throughout the supply Manufacturers throughout Industries Inc., which pleaded least-expensive product in the ment, including Invista, Well- chain. The 147 countries of the the supply chain tend to operate guilty to conspiring to set prices marketplace, it forces all other man and DAK Americas, raised World Trade Organization on Jan. on tight margins, which makes and allocate customers with products to compete versus this their prices by 7 to 10 percent, 1 are set to drop the quotas that raising their prices when costs competitors. commodity, and as a result, much citing high oil prices. Those in- have regulated the international grow a vital issue. The changes While the elimination of quo- of the fiber capacity is nonprof- creases took effect in February. trade in textiles and apparel for during the last major runup in tas next year might drive appar- itable,” Carroll said. “With China For the first half of 2004, the more than three decades, result- oil, from 1999 to 2001, eventually el prices down, it is still uncer- driving for self-sufficiency in price of crude oil averaged ing in intensified competition caught the attention of the U.S. tain as to how much the shift polyester production, it’s leaving $33.10 a barrel. This was up from and possible price wars. Department of Justice, which will affect textile fibers, said J. even more excess capacity in an average of $27.69 for 2003 and “The entire market seems to suspected that, rather than mov- Berrye Worsham 3rd, president such countries as Taiwan that $22.81 for 2002, according to the be very uncertain [about] what ing in step with the market, syn- and chief executive of Cotton depend upon exports to China to Illinois Oil & Gas Association. 2005 and the removal of quotas thetic-fiber makers were work- Incorporated. “Fiber demand is fill up their plants.” But the upward pressure on will bring,” said Keith Nagy, di- fiber pricing may be temporary, rector of filament at Celanese With China driving for self-sufficiency in polyester production, in light of an event that is expect- Acetate. “China’s on the fore- ed to pose a major downdraft for most of everyone’s mind.” “it’s leaving even more excess capacity in such countries as Taiwan In addition to being the world’s most populous nation, that depend upon exports to China to fill up their plants. China is also the U.S.’s leading supplier of textiles and apparel, — Joe Carroll,” DuPont holding a 15.6 percent share of the import market for the year ing together to raise their more a function of units than it Fiber makers noted that high ended in April. China has a charges, an illegal practice is of dollars,” he said. oil prices drive up their costs in huge apparel industry and is known as price fixing. A decision by apparel manu- many ways, not just by driving projected to see substantial Last week, Wellman Inc., facturers around the world to up raw material costs. They also growth in its exports next year, which makes polyester staple, seek to increase their produc- influence the cost of running unless the U.S. government said the Justice Department was tion substantially would lead to factories and transporting takes action to restrain it. trying to bring price-fixing a rise in demand for fibers and goods, for instance. The reverberations of rising charges against it. The company may cause fiber prices to rise. Bill Girrier, vice president of fiber prices are felt at each step denied the allegations and said That would be a particular con- marketing and sales at of the apparel supply chain it plans to defend itself. The de- cern for makers of cotton RadiciSpandex, said that truck- through consumer prices. partment has been examining and fabric, who depend on the ers have been trying to raise Typically, makers of fibers, fab- fiber makers during the success of farmers. A rise in de- their prices lately as a result of rics and garments assert that September 1999 to January 2001 mand coupled with some poor the high fuel costs. they’re unable to pass all of period, when rising oil prices recent crop years led to a In June, independent truckers their cost increases along to enticed polyester makers to runup in cotton prices over the went on a wildcat strike to protest their customers, meaning fur- raise prices. In October 2002, past 12 months. low wages and high fuel prices. ther tightening of their profit the probe nabbed polyester pro- However, prices have eased Nonunionized truckers demon- margins. ducer KoSa, a division of Koch recently, as forecasts for the strated at several ports, inhibiting next crop year, which begins in the flow of goods for days. August, have been strong. “There’s been some labor “The market is anticipating saber rattling, if you will,” that world [cotton] production Girrier said. “That will always will be higher than world usage put a little shock on the system. by about 4 percent or so,” said Transportation is just that much Worsham. more important. A lot of us have General forecasts see world just been holding firm and re- cotton production at 104 million fusing increases.” bales, while usage is about 100 The materials companies TIGER BUTTON CO., INC. million bales, he said. are trying to do much the same, TIGER TRIMMING, INC. The May average price on he said. cotton fiber delivered to “Stiff-arming” is how Girrier 307 West 38th Street New York, NY 10018 Southeastern region mills was described the firm’s resistance (212)594-0570 800-223-2754 FAX (212)695-0265 63.99 cents per pound, down to these efforts to ramp up email: [email protected] www.TIGERBUTTON.com from the January average of prices. “We’re caught in what we 75.21 cents, according to the call the squeeze,” he said. The start of smart READY-TO-WEAR

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©2004 E.I. du Pont de Nemours and Company. All rights reserved. DuPont™, the Oval Logo, The miracles of science™ and Sorona® are trademarks or registered trademarks of E.I. du Pont de Nemours and Company. 12 WWD/GLOBAL, JULY 2004

Te xtiles & Trade Countering Currency Currents at Pitti

By Stephanie Epiro 11 percent, 65 percent from Taiwan, 19 percent from for Germany and England. “With this new project, we Hong Kong and 6 percent from Japan. Attendance of hope to push back to where it used to be, something FLORENCE — Faced with currency exchange rates that Italian buyers, the largest contingent, was down 8.1 per- the customer can understand, a higher-value product.” make their products comparatively more expensive in the cent, leaving overall traffic off 2.9 percent to 7,257. The company believes customers will pay an extra U.S., European yarn spinners at last week’s Pitti Filati At , director Luciano Bandi said the compa- 1.5 to 2 euros a kilogram (84 cents to $1.13 a pound) for show said they’ve turned their focus to developing more ny had posted a 30 percent increase in sales for the first its XT-Four yarn compared with traditional cashmere luxurious products for the fall 2005-winter 2006 season. six months of the year, compared with 2003. Bandi said because of the yarn’s low pilling, better drape and faster The strategy appeared to be paying off, with many the cashmere yarn business had been particularly good. production time qualities. exhibitors reporting an uptick in sales through the first “We have had another fantastic year and it wasn’t ex- “We can see the demand from the customers to differ- half of the year. pected,” he said, attributing the results to strong sales entiate themselves from the masses,” said Beier. “The “Everybody is trying to invent new yarns so customers to the U.S. market. XT-Four yarn is a very conscious strategy to change the don’t compare the price of the yarn from three years ago,” said Giacomo Festa Bianchet, president of Lora Festa. “It’s going to be difficult in this market to sell basic Everybody is trying to invent new yarns so customers don’t merinos. We have changed the mix of our product so we “ are selling more expensive yarns — less merino, and compare the price of the yarn from three years ago. more cashmere and .” — Giacomo” Festa Bianchet, Lora Festa The U.S. dollar was worth 80.6 euro cents on Monday, down 9 percent from its 88.5 euro cents level of a year Some exhibitors seemed surprised at how well business demand of the final customer.” ago and off the most recent high of 84.2 euro cents in with U.S. customers held up in light of the exchange rate. Arianna Leone, vice president of Gruppo Luigi mid-May. The weakening of the dollar makes the prices “The exchange rate is worse than it was in January Botto, said, “This is Luigi Botto’s future and wool’s fu- at the show, which are quoted in euros, seem compara- — I can’t believe it,” said Stefano Borsini, president of ture in Europe.” tively higher to U.S. buyers. But, in a sign that the strong Igea. “But the strange thing is we have our American Leone said the company had invested $93 million in euro wasn’t taking too much of a toll on export business, customers coming here saying business is fantastic, that the XT-Four production process, including custom-made exhibitors said buyers from outside of Europe were still knitwear is selling really well and they have plans to machinery to produce the yarn. Gruppo Luigi Botto ex- out in force and looking for new products. create more for next season.” perienced a sales increase of more than 10 percent in the “We’ve seen a lot of foreigners here and it looks like Most agreed that developing new products was key to first six months of 2004 compared with prior-year levels. everybody is in a different mood and pushing hard to keeping business steady. Zegna Baruffa-Lane Borgosesia also launched a new find something new to stimulate the market,” said Festa Luigi Botto showed new aspects of its four-ply meri- version of the classic merino. Bianchet, adding that his company had seen sales rise no yarns called XT-Four, which had been woven into “The market is demanding the famous classic with through the first few months of the year, though they finer counts and cashmere mixes. The company also ex- more qualities,” said Mila Zegna Baruffa, marketing di- have leveled off since May. “We are doing well in the hibited a version of its XT-Four yarn with 2 percent of rector of Zegna Baruffa. Far East and America, but Italy is still very calm.” Dow’s XLA stretch fiber. The company calls its new product Saxon merino. It’s Show organizers said attendance among foreign buy- “The whole philosophy behind the XT Process is that the result of five years of research and comes from a spe- ers was up 3.5 percent at the event, which ended its we believe the classic merino 230 has got no future, it’s cialized New Zealand sheep breed of the same name. At a three-day run at Florence’s Fortezza da Basso on being sold as a commodity — a product for the masses,” fine 18 microns, Saxon has natural elastic, resilience, com- Friday. The number of buyers from the U.S. increased said Ulrike Beier, Gruppo Luigi Botto’s export manager fort and crease-resistant properties that enable the fiber WWD/GLOBAL, JULY 2004 13 WWW.WWD.COM PHOTOS BY MAESTRI DAVIDE From left: Cariaggi showed these cashmere and merino wool yarns; Luigi Botto showed its XT Four wool yarns; Cashmere yarns from Todd & Duncan. to be used for producing a seamless garment, said Baruffa. replenishment assortment in Italy. The company also and textures. Carded yarns interested buyers with soft, The company had also mixed the Saxon fiber with 30 per- mixed the yarn with a four percent Elité nylon to offer it liquid and felt touches in just about every color. cent cashmere to appeal to the luxury market. in a stretch version. At Zegna Baruffa, colors were reinterpreted to Firms such as Todd & Duncan and Cariaggi were up- “I’m pleased to see that cashmere has been updated make yarn more modern looking. A line of cashmeres in beat because of their focus on the luxury market. with stretch,” said Billy Tuttle, designer for Old Navy. “I pinks, creams and beiges were created to have a hand- “We have discovered that in this moment cashmere also love the felted feel of the fibers.” feel effect of powder. is at the front of the market and we’ve had a 40 percent Todd & Duncan, the Scottish cashmere yarn produc- At Todd & Duncan, lemon, apple green, salmon pink, increase in turnover for the first six months of 2004 er, is also riding on the crest of cashmere demand. The plum, beige, apricot and duck-egg blue were shown in compared to 2003,” said Cristina Cariaggi, communica- 107-year-old company experienced a 30 percent in- natural melanges with tweed effects. Cariaggi showed tion manager of Cariaggi. crease in the volume of goods sold, which because of fine carded yarns in brilliant colors including emerald The company’s revenue in 2003 was $36 million. Cariaggi price declines equated to a 15 percent rise in revenue green, orange, turquoise and violet. showed a new fiber as part of its cashmere yarn collection. for the first six months of 2004. Carded yarns in acid colors with a felted touch also “Duetrentasei,” which literally translates as “two-thirty six” “In the specialist segment of cashmere, it’s a good featured at Lora Festa. The company introduced carded and refers to the yarn count, is a 100 percent cashmere yarn moment. There is strong demand,” said sales and mar- yarns for fall 2005 in response to customer demand and spun finer and softer than a normal cashmere yarn. keting director Stefano Finotti. “The luxury yarn mar- had also added a custom-made yarn service. “It’s softer and fresher yarn that’s seasonless,” said ket is staying firm on its sales level. It’s only the other “We want to give more exclusivity to the yarn and to Cariaggi. medium- to low-yarn markets that are losing ground.” the customer to provide more service,” said Lora She planned to install the duetrentasei as part of its Exhibitors offered yarns in a wide array of colors Festa’s Bianchet.

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Marioboselli Teseo Seterie Argenti Picchi Fabrics from Italy Weave

Sixty-eight of Italy’s top weavers from Como, Biella and Russes, fairy tales and magic powers like the Lord of autumnal tones, soft natural whites and browns. Fancies Prato will exhibit their Fall/Winter 2005-06 collections at the Rings inspire imaginative, eccentric and theatrical from Boggio Casero mix brilliant, but sophisticated European Preview for I-TexSyle in New York, July 14-15, looks, enriched and embellished with artistic references.” colors, ranging from tones of bluish green to light 2004, a show launched in 2001 by the Italian Trade “Regarding patterns, we are oriented towards watercolors, reds, oranges and ochres. Commission as part of Italia: Life in I Style. drawings, both for jacquard and printed fabrics, where Traditional fibers are distorted, with wool singed, Italian mills’ constant quest for innovation offers various themes coexist, like flowers on the foreground of purified, pared, polished and made silky, with cotton, extraordinary yarns and fabrics with a handcraft touch a medieval architectural view,” said Federico Boselli, , and taking on wooly aspects. Silk is each season, sources stressed. “The Italian textile president and managing director, Marioboselli. omnipresent in real and imitation form, with manmade industry – the world’s leading producer of creative yarns fibers helping to modernize the looks. and fabrics – plays a crucial role across the whole world, “The Italian textile industry – Wool is key at Marioboselli, with a trend to middle with production also guaranteeing maximum protection the world’s leading producer of or lightweight. Spun viscose will be important, giving a of the environment,” stressed Mario Boselli, president, soft and warm hand at a competitive price, it reported. Marioboselli Holding, and president of Camera creative yarns and fabrics – plays a “Wool and wool mixed with technical fibers have a Nazionale della Moda Italiana. crucial role across the world, with soft touch, and we also are focused on interesting Thanks to rising demand for luxury products in the production guaranteeing maximum jaspe and mouline effects,” said Franco Bini, president, U.S., sales of textiles and yarns to North America protection of the environment.” Lineaesse and LDS. increased eight percent for the first three months of Patterns include traditional British , 2004, reported Roberto Luongo, executive director, – Mario Boselli herringbones, glen plaids and bird's eye in wool with Italian Trade Commission New York. president, Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana a silky surface, with wool or wool/nylon English style “The average unit price increased 15 percent from last herringbones and from Lamberto given a new season, confirming customers are no longer seeking In colors, sophisticated metallic blues from light to twist using multi-color and astro-dyed yarns. inexpensive fabrics from Italian mills,” added Franco dark are combined with antique rose, creamy make-up, Fabrics from Teseo are structured, shaft or jacquard, Clerici, Gruppocinque. tanned brown and a touch of milky white, Uslenghi added, bouclè or Chanel effects in mixed compositions, with The U.S. is the most important market for Italian with organic, vegetable tones from roots and bulbs and wool, cashmere, metals and chenille on silk or cotton textile and apparel companies, reported Paolo Zegna, spicy colors represented in marled . “Dramatic, base in luminous colors. co-owner of Ermenegildo Zegna Group, president of theatrical, Renaissance tones are mixed with fairy New stretch tweeds and stretch from Bel & Co. IdeaBiella, and newly appointed president of SMI- tale-inspired, surreal, chromo-pop hues.” come in brights, feminine pastels and a dark green range Sistema Moda Italia. "In order to strengthen our Gruppocinque offers soft tones and bright colors with like emerald, with silk mixed with wool and Lycra, it noted. presence in the U.S. market, it is my priority to work black, brown and blue the darker base of the collection. Pants will feature new geometric structures like checks in synergy with the other associations highlighting Vasino’s fancy and printed yarns feature all possible and micro-fancy weaves, said Alessandro Barni, sales technology and innovation in Italian textile production." color combinations, from glamorous lights to brights, manager, Bel & Co. “The most important trend this season is better passionate and rich tones to classics like white, black, Vasino offers fresh looks, with weaves in natural fabrics in comfort and style,” said Grazia Mello, export grey and beige. tones of grey/green/brown, and viscose mixes with wool director, Tessilstrona. “‘’ distinguishes Rexlane mixes intense brights with deep neutrals, for shiny, opaque and optical effects. Inspired by itself as the best in the market.” from light-winter pastels, white and dusty pastels to spicy decorative elements from the 1930’s, the company “Elegance and romance are associated not only with tones of red, orange, brown and tobacco. Picchi reported embellishes yarn-dyes with over-printing or embroideries. formalwear, but also casualwear, and are the most it focuses on more vibrant colors, shifting away from Colorful wool/cotton chenille patchworks from Lamberto, important direction for citywear and even sportswear,” traditional looks. ethnic tie-dyes, big checks and giant lozenge patterns observed Angelo Uslenghi, renowned textile and fashion Imperial blue, antique violet and greens at Marioboselli from Vasino F.I.L. have a rustic feel, they reported. trend consultant. “The Surreal Art of Dalì, Ballets were inspired by a winter sea, while Lamberto offers “Tie-dyes in shocking colors are found on faux fur,” I-TEXSTYLE, EXHIBITING AT EUROPEAN PREVIEW ALTMAN BUILDING AND METROPOLITAN PAVILION 125 -135 W. 18TH STREET, NEW YORK CITY JULY 14-15, 2005

COMPANY NAME BOOTH COMPANY NAME BOOTH COMPANY NAME BOOTH COMPANY NAME BOOTH ALCANTARA B18 GIOTEX FILI GIORGETTI E C PRATO B83 LANIFICIO BISENTINO B41 LANIFICIO NENCINI B98 ANGELO VASINO/F.I.L. B63 GRUPPOCINQUE B70 LANIFICIO CAMPORE BROGLIA B49 LANIFICIO NOVA FIDES B57 BEL & CO B36 GUEST A33 QUITINO DI BROGLIA DIEGO & C. LANIFICIO REXLANE B61 BRUGNOLI GIOVANNI B27 IMTA DESII MODE B62 LANIFICIO CAVERNI E GRAMIGNI B39 LANIFICIO ROBERTO DRIGHI B100 CADICA B54 INSETA SRL A36 LANIFICIO DI MAZZONE B45 LANIFICIO ROSATI B42 LANIFICIO CECCHI LIDO E FIGLI B59 LANERIE BOGGIO CASERO B44 LANIFICIO FEDORA SPA B33 LANIFICIO TESSILSTRONA B47 COBRA B54 LANERIE PIERO TONELLA B48 LANIFICIO LAMBERTO B52 LANIFICIO TEXCO B97 COMPAGNIA TESSILE B58 LANIFICIO RENZO RAFANELLI B35 LANIFICIO MARCOLANA B34 LANIFICIO UGO PACINI & CO. B95 WONDER B66 LANERIE TEMPESTI B68 LANIFICIO MARINI & CECCONI B40 LARUSMIANI B11 EFILAN B84 TESSILCOMPANY B68 LANIFICIO NANNUCI & C. B86 LDS - LINEAESSE- LINEASSE TESSUTI B37 ADVERTISEMENT

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Moda In Sept. 8-10 ‘04 Linea Tessile Italiana Tessilcompany Mantero Milano www.fieramodain.it

Shirt Avenue Sept 12-14 ‘04 Cernobbio – Como Elegance and Style www.shirtavenue.it

added Uslenghi. “Stylized flowers are superimposed on wild The firm noted 100 percent cotton fabrics from shirtings to Ideabiella animal spot grounds, tweeds are needled with , metal mesh heavier weights have been brushed, emerized or given soft, Sept. 15-17 ‘04 welded on . Art-nouveau patterns are reworked and cashmere or peach finishes. Cernobbio – Como computerized. Quilted effects and new piques are made of combed Boggio Casero stressed “alternative fabrics for alternative www.ideabiella wool. Lacquered , iridescent , tucks and puckerings shapes”, like their new trenchcoat fabric. Lamberto noted it suggest a fairy tale mood.” is focusing on new developments in Prato Expo Sept. 16-18 ‘04 Influences from the 40’s and 50’s “‘Made in Italy’ distinguishes itself viscose/Lycra, with special enzyme Florence inspire three-dimensional ‘revisited as the best in the market.” finishes to cotton and cotton/wool www.pratoexpo.com retro’ structures and colors in offering a fine hand feel and Picchi’s wool, /wool and – Grazia Mello bi-stretch wovens that look like Ideacomo rayon/cashmere fabrics. The 60’s knits. New fancies from Rexlane Oct. 20-22 ‘04 export director, Tessilstrona Cernobbio – Como and 70’s provide inspiration for retro are enlivened with soft round yarns www.ideacomo.com weave constructions and color combinations at Boggio Casero, in unusual weaves and colorations. where wool and wool blends with irregular yarns are accented Lanificio Campore reported tweed fabrics, from lightweight Filo-Nextex with metallic light in moving weaves and jacquard effects. to coatings, are important, with pure wool and wool blended Oct. 27-28 ‘04 Gruppocinque introduced plain fabrics with small with cashmere, angora and camelhair for a soft hand. Vivid Milano constructions and jacquards with elaborate designs in synthetic colors will combine with classic shades, and pastels from the www.filo.com and natural blends based on high-density warps. Double face spring collection will be carried forward, noted Andrea Rossini, and classic dobby constructions come in rich blends of natural export manager. “It will be important to offer rich, expensive and manmade fibers, with the focus on natural aspects and looking products, but at a reasonable price. Campore’s new ITALIAN TEXTILE moderate vintage finishings. collection of women’s fabrics is based on retro designs Wool jacquard knits from Marioboselli in five different re-colored and updated with Lycra for comfort,” he added. TRADE SHOWS colors were embroidered and flocked for cocktail dresses, and its For the second season in a row, the trend is to novelties, IN THE U.S. “Line X” using seamless technology is based on elasticized wool. noted Riccardo Marini, president, Prato Trade. “This of course Teseo features fabrics developed is favorable for the Prato mills, with a special cotton yarn twisted “It will be important to offer rich, since that is one of our strengths.” Texitalia @ Los Angeles Int’l Textile Show with copper thread that protects from expensive looking products, but at a Marini, who also is president of Oct. 18-20 ‘04 Elettrosmog (electric waves pollution). reasonable price.” Marini & Cecconi, said Chanel- California Market Center – Los Angeles, CA Vasino mixes cotton, wool and inspired looks would remain important Organizer: Italian Trade Commission Lempur, produced from wood fiber for Fall/Winter 2005-06. “Tweeds 33 East 67th Street – Andrea Rossini New York, NY 10021-5949 offering the softness of silk or export manager, Campore are renewed with colors ranging cashmere, the freshness of linen and from neutrals to pales to deep Tel: 212/980-1500 ext. 335 Fax: 212/758-1050 thermoregulation and anti-stress characteristics, in prints and darks, with brights used as the accents. Refined luxury is key, e-mail: new york@new york.ice.it piece-dyed fabrics. LDS uses vintage Ecoleather with reptile and we have focused on giving our line an expensive look, while patterns and Econabuk, both machine washable or dry cleanable. keeping it reasonably priced.” I-TexStyle, New York Larusmiani will showcase Spinker , a 100 percent cotton Taiana, known for its shirt and blouse fabric collection, is TBD drill with excellent breathing and insulating features originally launching an innovative new line, “Vanity, a fusion between Organizer: Italian Trade Commission Tel: 212/980-1500 ext. 335 developed during World War II, and “Wind Isle”, high-end wind material and shapes,” reported Claudio Taiana, president of Fax: 212/758-1050 resistant and water repellent cotton fabric, both without special Tessitura Taiana Virgilio and president of Associazione Serica e-mail: new york@new york.ice.it additives or oiling. Italiana, the Italian silk weavers association.

COMPANY NAME BOOTH COMPANY NAME BOOTH COMPANY NAME BOOTH LIMONTA B12 MICROTEX COTTON CLUB B71 SETERIE ARGENTI A21 LINEA EMME LANIFICIO GIOVANNI B60 MIGOTEX B56 TBM B32 33 East 67th Street MAGNI MIROGLIO A27 TESEO TESSITURA SERICA DI OLMEDA A35 New York, NY 10021 Tel: 212/980-1500 LINEA TESSILE ITALIANA B64 OLMETEX B72 TESSILE FIORENTINA B28 Fax: 212/758-1050 MANTECO B51 OTTAVIO CROTTI B46 TESSILGODI B50 e-mail: new york@new york.ice.it MANTERO A22 PANTEX MANIFATTURA TESSUTI B85 TESSITURA DI CREVACUORE B43 www.italtrade.com MAPEL B29 PICCHI B81 TESSITURA TAIANA VIRGILIO B5 MARIOBOSELLI JERSEY B26 PONTOGLIO B15 TEXMODA TESSUTI B38 MENCHI TESSUTI B99 NUOVO RIVERA B62 ULTRA B96 MICHELE SOLBIATI SASIL B82 SERICA DELLA MARCA A34 WONDER B19 16 WWD/GLOBAL, JULY 2004

Te x tiles & Trade Poland Ready for a Wild 2005 By Poul Funder Larsen to Poland in the 1990s. The drive for lower prices among apparel manu- WARSAW — Poland’s apparel industry is in for a facturers has sent them even farther afield, from roller-coaster ride during its first year in the Eastern Europe to Asia. COUNTRY FOCUS: European Union. “Some companies have relocated their manufac- Entry into the trading bloc, which occurred May 1, turing capacities to China, Belarus or Ukraine,” said is intended to boost Poland’s economic growth, but Elzbieta Sankowska, a board member of the Polish POLAND some experts warn that it may drive up costs as the Federation of Apparel & Textiles. world’s garment and fabric industry braces for inten- Apparel exports, primarily to other European Gross Domestic Product: $426.7 billion/$11,000 per capita (2003) sified competition. countries, remain an important part of the Polish Gross Domestic Product Change From 2002: +3.6 percent On Jan. 1, the 147 nations of the World Trade economy. The textile and clothing sector accounts for Population: 38.6 million Organization plan to drop the system of quotas that about 15 percent of manufacturing employment in Unemployment: 17.7 percent has controlled their trade in textiles and apparel for Poland, according to EU figures. The sector employs Apparel industry employment: 160,000 the past three decades, potentially causing price-cut- 160,000 workers. Textile and apparel exports: $2.8 billion ting, with low-wage nations seeking to undercut their About 80 percent of Poland’s $2.8 billion in annual Textile and apparel exports to U.S.: $63 million, down 1.3 percent. wealthier rivals. exports in the fabric and garment categories go to the Key products: Wool suits, cotton pants, silk , Even Poland, where the minimum wage is the EU, with a little more than 2 percent to the U.S., feder- non-woven fabrics. equivalent of less than $2,700 a year, stands to lose ation figures show. Those shipments came to $63 million Currency: $1 U.S. = 3.66 zloty market share to poorer rivals, some industry execu- for the year ended in April, a 1.3 percent decline from Major companies: Corin, Aryton, Salamanta, Intermoda, Etos tives said. Wages are a significant component of pric- the prior year, according to U.S. government data. ing in the labor-intensive garment industry. “Most Western producers based here are focusing Poland, like most of the former Soviet-bloc countries, spent much “Wages in Poland have been growing rapidly, but exclusively on EU markets,” said the director of a of the 1990s seeking to reinvigorate its economy by privatizing that hasn’t fully translated into strong productivity Western European lingerie producer with operations former state-owned companies and encouraging investment. In gains,” said Joergen Nielsen, a sales executive with in Poland, who spoke on the condition of anonymity. recent years, Eastern European countries have marketed Danish innerwear producer JBS, which has moved The director fretted that a surge of low-cost cloth- themselves as lower-cost production platforms than their Western production to neighboring Lithuania. ing from producers in Asia and elsewhere in Eastern European neighbors and several Italian firms have moved some of The legal minimum salary in Poland is 9,888 zloty Europe could take a toll on the Polish industry. their textile operations into Poland. But the migration to cheaper annually, the equivalent of $2,697 at current exchange “The general tendency toward lower prices and countries is an endless one in the apparel industry, and some rates. In the apparel industry, the average wage is high- margins will certainly hit Poland because its clothing industry experts are worried that as apparel quotas are phased out, er than that, with the typical worker earning about industry has grown less competitive in recent years,” Polish manufacturers will lose to competitors in Asia as well as 14,000 zloty — the equivalent of $3,818. While that’s still the executive said. other Eastern European countries, particularly if the nation’s far below prevailing wage rates in Western Europe, it’s However, Polish manufacturers feel their familiar- recent entry into the European Union causes wages and the no longer a bargain in the eyes of some industry buyers. ity with the EU market, as well as the duty-free access standard of living to rise. Apparel represents about 5 percent of “Initially, wages in Poland were only one-tenth of that comes with EU membership, will allow them to Poland’s textile exports, with industrial machinery and chemicals Western European levels, but now in Ukraine you can remain competitive. playing a bigger role in its economy. Poland’s major trading find wages that are perhaps only 20 percent of the “We have been present in international markets for partners are other European countries, especially Germany. For the Polish level,” said Jens Bloch, a director with the quite some years, so we know the EU markets very year ended in April, it was the U.S.’s 66th-ranked supplier of Danish Textile Association, an industry organization well,” said Damian Kinczyk of Polish lingerie produc- apparel and textiles. that saw many member companies move production er Corin. WWD/GLOBAL, JULY 2004 17 WWW.WWD.COM

Mills Weather Couture’s Decline African Nations Keep Heat on Subsidies PARIS — Executives at Europe’s most ex- caters to top Paris houses, said the recent By John Zarocostas clusive fabric mills, where the most exqui- emergence of such “extraordinary” talents site creations may cost more than $1,000 a as John Galliano and Jean Paul Gaultier GENEVA — A group of poor West African cotton-producing nations, spearhead- yard, said the decline of couture could has given couture a shot in the arm. ed by Benin, has called on World Trade Organization members to bring an end limit their ability to experiment with “I feel that this is good for the future,” to the cotton subsidy programs of all developed nations within five years. ultra-high-end fabrics and ideas. said Leuthold. “There are houses that are The proposal followed a WTO ruling that the payments by the U.S. to cot- But they aren’t too broken up over the making a business of couture, such as ton growers were in violation of world trade rules. Brazil had brought the diminishing sector — since the mills used it [Lebanon’s] Elie Saab. And we’ve been complaint about the U.S. in the same way many ready-to-wear hous- doing a lot of business with small made-to- In defiance of intense pressure by the U.S. and behind-the-scenes arm- es did, more for promotions than profits. measure studios in London, so overall, twisting by the European Union, senior officials from Benin, Burkina Faso “Couture hasn’t been a significant busi- business is stable.” and Mali called for all cotton subsidies by rich nations to be drastically ness since its golden “Of course, it’s a reduced or dismantled. age in the late Sixties pity that someone “These subsidies destroy our economies, and cotton is a very strategic and early Seventies,” Couture hasn’t been a such as Ungaro has product and has a very specific character,” said Benin’s minister of industry said Toby Forester, “ stopped,” said Herve and commerce Fatiou V. Akplogan, in testimony before the trade body late co-owner and art di- significant business since Protais, commercial last month. rector at Foster director at France’s Representatives of Nigeria and Brazil voiced their support on the issue. Rohner, a mill in St. its golden age in the late Solstiss. “We do have Concerns over agricultural issues prompted a group of more than 60 Gallen, Switzerland, fewer couture orders developing nations to convene a summit in Mauritius this week. that supplies couture 1960s and early 1970s. this season. But cou- The African nations also renewed their calls for a fund of $250 million to houses such as — Toby Forester, Foster Rohner” ture has long been a be established to compensate developing-world farmers for damages to their Christian Lacroix marketing tool, a win- livelihoods caused by rich countries’ subsidies. and Chanel. dow we use to sell our other fabrics.” According to WTO reports, cotton accounts for 77 percent of Benin’s “Balenciaga, Givenchy or Yves Saint Meanwhile, Leuthold explained that exports, 55 percent of Burkina Faso’s and nearly 18 percent of Mali’s; over 10 Laurent could sell a couture dress 20, 30, more intricate and luxurious rtw collections million people in the region depend on cotton for their livelihood. even 50 times,” Forester said. “That’s un- have helped shore up top-end business. Benin’s Akplogan said the recent WTO panel ruling on U.S. cotton subsi- heard of today. Couture, for us, has become “A lot of prêt-à-porter is almost couture dies has strengthened the hand of poor nations. The decision called for the a fabulous experiment — an exercise to now,” he said. U.S. to discontinue the program by July 1, 2005. The U.S has said it believes feel what the best designers in the world Nonetheless, few expect rtw fabrics to its payment programs are proper and has indicated that it would appeal the could need. It’s easier to have great ideas ever rival the heady summits of the couture. WTO decision. where you’re not limited by price.” “Some prêt-à-porter designers will use The developing-world push is much broader, calling for an end to all cot- Despite the disappearance this season fabrics that cost as much as $200 or $300 a ton subsidies, which would affect more than just the U.S. To achieve a quick of Emanuel Ungaro, Versace and Givenchy yard for exceptional pieces for their end, the ministers suggested the WTO should discuss the issue on its own and — as well as the retirement of Hanae Mori shows,” said Forster. “But the top is around not wrap it into overall agriculture talks. U.S. and EU officials oppose mak- — mills aren’t fretting about the future of $100 a yard. We can do extraordinary ing cotton a stand-alone issue. the haute trade. things at that price because, with prêt-à- Peter Allgeier, deputy U.S. trade representative, said, “Cotton, a matter of Martin Leuthold, art director at Jakob porter, obviously, the volumes are bigger.” concern for our African partners, can best be addressed as part of the agri- Schlaepfer, another St. Gallen mill that — Robert Murphy cultural negotiations.”

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to One Davis Drive, learnmore P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, tel 919-549-3531 NC 27709, USA fax 919-549-8933 web www.aatcc.org 18 WWD/GLOBAL, JULY 2004 WWW.WWD.COM De Beers to Reenter American Market Sears Seeks a President After Settling Charges of Price Fixing By Dan Burrows NEW YORK — Sears, Roebuck & Co. shook up its executive ranks Monday in By Vicki M. Young ever, that De Beers’ reentry into the U.S. an effort to ensure its investment in the market is unlikely to affect diamond prices. off-mall format will succeed. NEW YORK — In a move that allows De With diamonds in short supply, prices are The nation’s largest department store Beers to reenter the lucrative U.S. market driven by supply and demand, and today, chain said it created a new executive for diamond jewelry sales, the world’s there are more suppliers to choose. position — president of Sears retail — largest diamond producer is expected to “At the high end of the business, the which will include oversight of the com- plead guilty today on criminal charges of supply of diamonds is limited, so there is pany’s burgeoning off-mall stores format, price fixing. only [so] much of that quality you can sell as well as responsibility for all existing Lisa Wright, courtroom deputy for U.S. — whether you have one office or 200,” a U.S. full-line and specialty stores. district court judge George Smith in jewelry executive said. At the same time, Sears said president Columbus, Ohio, said Monday that the As reported, De Beers reopened talks of full-line stores Mark Cosby left the hearing is set for 2 p.m. today. The hearing with the U.S. Justice Department last sum- company “to pursue other interests.” will include the guilty plea to criminal mer in a bid to revisit the antitrust issue The company said it launched an charges of price fixing and sentencing. that has prevented the South African firm external search to fill the new role. Chief In entering a guilty plea, De Beers will from selling its rocks directly to the U.S. executive officer Alan Lacy will handle also subject itself to a fine carrying a re- for nearly 50 years. The antitrust case was the president of Sears retail duties on an Mark Cosby, ported maximum of $10 million. De Beers filed in 1994. De Beers, however, first faced interim basis until an executive is found. Sears’ president executives declined comment, but said a criticism about its alleged anticompetitive “We are establishing this important of full-line statement will be issued after the hearing. policies in 1945 over its refusal to provide new position as part of the next phase stores, has left De Beers used to control 85 percent of industrial diamonds during World War II. of Sears’ strategic plan, which involves the company. the diamond market, but now controls Last year, De Beers received the green execution of our off-mall growth pro- about 55 percent. For the South African light from the European Union over its firm, diamond profits and prices have been “supplier of choice” distribution strategy rising, and reentry into the important U.S. aimed at spurring consumer demand for Sears is pretty much committed to the off-mall market might provide an added boost to its diamonds. At the time, it was a move De “ profit margins. Beers hoped would help in negotiations format and they don’t want to mess around. Company executives said in past confer- with the justice department. — Kurt Barnard, Barnard’s Retail” Trends ence calls regarding earnings results that De Beers is expected to post half-year the U.S. market accounts for 50 percent of earnings results next week. the world’s diamond jewelry sales. The plea agreement comes at an oppor- gram, full integration and alignment of “Did you ever hear the term steal- Managing director Gary Ralfe noted in a call tune time for De Beers, which is slated the retail organization and the continu- ing?” said Barnard, laughing. “They in early February that the trend for diamond later this year to open a jewelry store on ing turnaround of our mall-based busi- will look at virtually every successful jewelry for a woman’s right hand — rather the corner of Fifth Avenue and 55th Street ness,” said Lacy in a statement. off-mall retailer.” than the left — has taken off in the U.S. in New York as part of a retail venture with Kurt Barnard, consultant and founder Sears said it plans to have about 70 For the year ended Dec. 31, earnings rose LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton. of Barnard’s Retail Trends report, said off-mall stores by the end of next year, 10.3 percent to $484 million from $439 mil- “For them, being in the U.S. would mean the change reflects Sears’ determination including 12 to 14 mid-size Sears Grand lion, due to strong demand for rough dia- the executives would have more [direct] ac- to make its off-mall format work. stores. Just two weeks ago Sears inked a monds and bigger price tags. De Beers, in cess to retailers,” said another jeweler. “Cosby wasn’t brought in as an off- $620 million deal to acquire 54 Kmart fact, raised its rough diamond prices on three So far, De Beers board members face ar- mall specialist and that’s what Sears locations and leasehold interests in occasions in 2003, with prices ending the year rest if they travel to the U.S. because of the wants,” said Barnard. “Sears is pretty seven Wal-Mart Stores. Sears said the about 10 percent higher than in 2002. The ongoing legal troubles. The state depart- much committed to the off-mall format acquisition is intended to jump-start its company has shifted focus and is eyeing the ment is expected to lift the bar against De and they don’t want to mess around.” off-mall expansion. higher end of the market. In January, the firm Beers executives today after the hearing. Barnard said Sears will try to lure tal- The new retail president will also raised prices another 3 percent. —With contributions from ent away from a competing off-mall oversee merchandising, supply chain Several jewelry executives noted, how- Marc Karimzadeh retailer to fill the newly created position. management and marketing, Sears said. Moody’s Reevaluates May Wal-Mart Predicts Tepid Sales Growth NEW YORK — Moody’s Investors Service major markets and limited geographic over- NEW YORK — Wal-Mart is keeping its and last week the retailer posted same- lowered the long-term ratings of May lap in store sites, the downgrade was limited sales expectations low for a second store sales growth of 2.2 percent for the Department Stores Co. and separately, to one notch. Moody’s added that the stable straight month, forecasting growth of month. The lackluster sales were placed the long-term ratings of J.C. rating outlook also reflects those benefits, 2 to 4 percent for July. blamed on unseasonably cold and Penney’s on review for possible upgrade. along with the progress May made in build- The Bentonville, Ark.-based retail- damp weather throughout the country. The rating agency on Monday lowered ing its private label business. er said it continues to expect its shop- Separately, Wal-Mart topped the May’s long-term ratings to “Baa2” from In the case of J.C. Penney, the long-term pers to curtail spending based on Fortune Global 500 list for the third “Baa1.” It also affirmed May’s “Prime-2” debt ratings were placed on review for prices at the gas pump. year in a row. Petroleum company short-term rating while saying the retail- possible upgrade, reflecting strong same- “Higher gas prices also continue to BP took the number two slot and er’s rating outlook was “stable.” store sales gains since December as well impact our customers. Therefore, for Exxon Mobil grabbed the number Moody’s said the downgrade was because as the pending completion of the sale of its the July four-week period, we forecast three position. of an increase in debt by May to acquire Eckerd division. The sale, Moody’s said, comparative sales for the U.S. to be Wal-Mart was the only retailer to Marshall Field’s department store opera- will generate net proceeds of $3.5 billion up in the 2 to 4 percent range,” the appear within the top 10 companies tion, along with nine stores from Mervyn’s, and stop the drain on free cash flow. company said in a prerecorded call listed. for $3.24 billion. The agency said because of Moody’s also affirmed Penney’s specu- Monday. The Fortune 500 will appear in the the benefits of the acquisition, which in- lative grade liquidity rating at “SGL-1.” In mid-June, Wal-Mart lowered its July 26 issue of the magazine. cludes giving May a larger presence in three — Vicki M. Young sales expectations to 2 to 4 percent, — Carrie Melago WWD/GLOBAL, JULY 2004 19 WWW.WWD.COM Pronovias Shows Bridal ‘Showstoppers’

By Barbara Barker years,” a major East Coast retail- The audience of 2,000 in- Badgley and James Mischka bridal gowns priced from $200 er said. cluded Pronovias’ founder and with Nati Abascal (Duchess of to $2,000 were paraded down a BARCELONA — Pronovias, the “The show defined current chief executive Alberto Feria) in a tailored white din- multiple runway. International world’s largest bridal manufac- trends,” said Kleinfeld’s Urshel, Palatchi; junior socialites such ner suit, and Ungaro designer designer gowns ranged from turer, put on quite a show in its off embroidered lace, as Tamara Falcó, daughter of Gianbattista Valli. $2,310 to $5,520. hometown here, U.S. retailers Pronovias’ cocktail and said. mother-of-the-bride collections The company invited some featured feminine, body-skim- 1,800 specialty retailers and It was better than last year, more diversified, and we ming silhouettes in black lace journalists from more than 30 “ and pleated organza; draped countries last month for a pre- loved Badgley Mischka. tops and tiered skirts in bold view of spring 2005. The guest ” — Mara Urshel, I. Kleinfeld florals, and halter necks with list was made up of customers soft pants treatments. Strong from the multinational’s global colors included pumpkin, or- network, including 80 U.S. re- draping, flounces, long sleeves, Isabel Preysler and Carlos Buyers got down to business ange sherbet, gold, fuchsia, tailers and major buying groups back interest and jackets. In gen- Falcó, Marques de Griñon, in a — and a minimum order of 30 ruby, aubergine and celeste from Italy, Germany, Holland eral, “bridal looks more and more splashy Roberto Cavalli garments — the next day at the blue. Prices ranged from $140 and Japan. like ready-to wear,” she said. minidress; U.S. designers Mark five-star Hotel Arts, where 165 to $810. “It was better than last year, more diversified, and we loved Badgley Mischka,” said Mara Urshel, president of the - based boutique I. Kleinfeld. Pronovias makes 480,000 gowns annually — half of them shipped to about 60 countries. The 40-year-old firm distributes through 2,000 points of sale in Europe, including 110 company- owned or franchised stores in Spain, three in France and three in Greece. Annual turnover is 125 mil- lion euros, or about $134 mil- lion at current exchange, said Erik Hoover, director of Prono- vias, North America, based in East Rockaway, N.Y. In the U.S., retail accounts include Saks Fifth Avenue, Bergdorf Good- man and major bridal specialty stores for a total of 180 sales points, he said. Cecilia Flores, bridal manag- er of Saks Fifth Avenue, de- scribed Pronovias’ designer col- lections as “showstoppers.” She praised the fabrics, “shimmery without being overdone” and the “out-to-there” trains. “The gowns are different, exciting and they fit beautifully. Elie [Saab] started something last year with the champagne and nude colors.” Saks’ customers have accepted the darker tones, Flores said. Ilyse Gouse, Saks bridal and designer evening buyer, said, “The sophistication and ele- gance of the designer lines are a way to advance our [bridal] salon with something nobody else has.” The two-day event kicked off with an evening runway show at the Pabellón Italiano in the Barcelona fairgrounds. Badgley Mischka, negotiating a contract for 2006 with Pronovias, and Emanuel Ungaro debuted exclu- sive minicollections of six styles each. In addition, Pronovias’ stable includes Saab; creative director Manuel Mota, who does a signature line, and lesser- known Spanish designers Miguel Palacio, Lydia Delgado and Hannibal Laguna. Ungaro opened the catwalk presentation with a two-piece look of crystal-beaded tank top and frothy ballskirt on Karolina Kurkova. Saab sent out a champagne gown in alternate panels of tulle and Chantilly lace with delicate sprinklings of paillettes. Badgley Mischka showed a lingerie dress in liq- uid silk reminiscent of Gilda and vintage Hollywood and, in a less bride-like vein, a ribbon- belted cashmere sweater with lace trim and simple skirt. “This will be Pronovias’ best- selling collection in several 20 WWD/GLOBAL, JULY 2004 WWW.WWD.COM A&F Aims for Older Customers

Continued from page one increased competition offering an overabundance of similarly styled casual sportswear. section of the population. A fifth door will open in early 2005. Also, the A&F brand is almost maxed out on expansion, with 360 stores operating and The strategy, which some sources speculate could attempt to compete with J. Crew a ceiling of 400 units envisioned by the company. But the firm isn’t giving up on the A&F and Banana Republic price points but with hipper looks that underprice contempo- division. It’s just trying to repair it by revamping the merchandising strategy and pushing rary brands, is being kept tightly under wraps. The company declined to provide any into higher price points while eliminating promotions to differentiate from other brands. specifics for competitive reasons. Despite its difficulties with the core A&F brand, analysts have said that there is “When you test stores, you want to spread them out across the country so you can get still sufficient equity in it to command higher prices and pull away from the main- unbiased data,” said a source close to the company. The source also said the new con- stream, like Gap and American Eagle, and could have a hipper brand extension that’s cept would be “aspirational.” not as expensive as some cool contemporary brands, like Juicy Couture. With A&F’s highly regarded Hollister division — launched in 2000 and catering to 14- Yet the road to more immediate growth seems to be via the five-year-old Hollister divi- to 17-year-olds, rather than the 18- to 22-year-old set that A&F division targets — the com- sion. It has a long way to go before maxing out on expansion, and is performing better than pany conducted roughly a 12-month, six-store test, with units the A&F chain. Hollister has 192 units and as many as 600 to including locations such as the Mall of America in An A&F 800 are contemplated. Bloomington, Minn.; the Mall of Georgia in Atlanta; Paramus store. According to Seth Johnson, executive vice president Park, N.J., as well as malls in Easton, Ohio, and Kansas City. and chief operating officer, the company intends to open The upcoming division for an older crowd is expected to 85 Hollister stores this year. follow a similar strategy of testing a handful of units in dif- “Our analysis has implied that Hollister would be of ferent regions of the country for about a year, before reach- sufficient size to begin driving the total company comps in ing a verdict and more aggressively rolling out stores. 2005,” said Goldman Sachs analyst Margaret Mager in a The new division is being run by Carole Kerner, con- past review of the retailer’s earnings. sidered a strong, creative merchant with a range of expe- The third growth vehicle is abercrombie, targeting rience at high-profile brands, who was instrumental in seven- to 14-year-olds, which has 171 units operating and launching Hollister. a ceiling of 400 envisioned by the company, but that chain “She is a phenomenal merchant because she generates hasn’t created as much buzz as Hollister. an original idea no matter where she has worked. She’s One specialty retail source questioned whether talent the great,” said Elaine Hughes, of E.A. Hughes & Company caliber of Kerner should be used to start up another chain, or executive search. “She has a unique combination of abili- to fix the A&F business. The company’s poor comparable- ties to understand where the trends are going, regardless of store sales performance in recent months has been largely the age, demographic or price point, understanding what’s hip, and beyond envisioning attributable to the core A&F concept. The trend was apparent in June with A&F experi- the next trend, she knows how to develop and execute to that trend. It’s one thing to have encing an 8 percent decline in comps. Both men’s and women's clothing tracked in negative a great idea. It’s another to translate it to a salable product.” territory for the month. According to J.P. Morgan Securities analyst Brian Tunick, the num- Kerner is a former president of Donna Karan and DKNY Women, and previously ber of transactions was down 18 percent at A&F stores. served as senior vice president and general merchandise manager of women’s appar- Hollister, however, posted an 8 percent comp increase in June. el at J. Crew’s mail order business. WWD reported in 1998 that Kerner “successfully “I think we were able to move a little more quickly in the Hollister business than we repositioned women’s apparel as the dominant force in J. Crew’s mail order business.” were in the A&F business to be in the trending classifications,” said Mike Jeffries, chair- Kerner also served as president of Calvin Klein Women’s Sport in addition to holding man and chief executive of Abercrombie & Fitch, in a response to analysts’ questions several posts at Warnaco. She began her career at Macy’s New York. during a conference call. “This business is moving faster than it ever has before, and we There are several reasons for launching a new division. The core A&F brand, retail had to just get our team up to get to the right pace of business. It happened slowly dur- sources said Monday, has been hampered by products that are high-priced, imagery that ing the quarter, but we really saw the impact of newness at the end of the first quarter.” became overtly sexual and possibly frightened off too many prospective customers, and While Hollister has overshadowed A&F lately, and is even said to be cannibalizing sales from its sister A&F division, analysts are not deeply troubled by the company’s performance or future, expecting to see a rebound in July sales figures. “We look for steady comp improvements begin- ning in July as the company benefits from new merchandise initia- tives including the introduction of the premium-price Ezra Fitch line,” said SG Cowen analyst Lauren Levitan. The line will include leather jackets, priced at $390, cashmere sweaters, $178, velvet blaz- ers, $200, and washed , around $125. Analysts have also acknowledged that promotional activity was intentionally kept low, a move that negatively impacted comps, but ultimately saved margins and earnings. One retail consultant raised another concern: “There’s been no succession planning.” While Kerner is highly regarded for having a rare combination of skill sets, the analyst noted that she has never been singularly involved in running a $1 billion corporation. Others also point out that Abercrombie has curiously never had “a flagship mentality” unlike other chains that fight to get retail space on high-profile streets like Madison or Fifth Avenues. In Manhattan, for example, there are no Hollister stores and only one A&F store, locat- ed in the South Street Seaport. According to the source close to the company, it’s possible A&F one day will reconsider its real estate. Meanwhile, the company has reconsidered its catalogue. Last December, the A&F Quarterly was discontinued. It had featured nude models and triggered protests and possibly was partly respon- sible for declining sales. Analysts praised the cancellation at the time, saying they hoped the retailer would instead focus on its core product problems, rather than sensationalism. The magalogue was relaunched earlier this month as A&F Magazine, with some pictures of hunks nude to the hip bones, but nothing as racy as in the past. — With contributions by Ross Tucker Abercrombie & Fitch By the Numbers MOST RECENT QUARTER VS. PRIOR PERIOD SALES: $411.9 million vs. $346.7 million +18.8 percent EARNINGS: $29.7 million vs. $25.6 million +16.1 percent

TRAILING 12 MONTHS VS. PRIOR PERIOD SALES: $1.77 billion vs. $1.63 billion +8.8 percent EARNINGS: $209.2 million vs. $197.2 million +6.1 percent

SAME-STORE SALES, LAST FOUR QUARTERS Q1: Flat Stainless steel. Spotless rooms. None of your money in the toilet. Q4: -11.0 percent - into our five Manhattan locations by calling 800 567-7720 Q3: -9.0 percent or visiting applecorehotels.com Q2: -8.0 percent

SOURCE: COMPANY REPORTS WWD/GLOBAL, JULY 2004 21 WWW.WWD.COM Ready-to-Wear Report A Winter’s Tale on the Upper East Side NEW YORK — In an East 75th Street town house far traded in her Wilhemina modeling career to focus full from the frenzy of the garment district, Winter Hodges, Leslie Gordon Johnson, time on her business. president of Bumi Sirotka, is ushering in two relatively Bumi Sirotka and Winter & Miggs is projected to generate $5 million in unknown ready-to-wear labels with the guile of a Winter Hodges. first-year wholesale volume, and this year, Bumi Sirotka Southern gentleman. should ring up about $3 million in wholesale volume — Most Seventh Avenue types don’t call their offices tripling last year’s sales, Hodges said. At this point, the “our home,” greet visitors with “y’all,” or offer them main concern is retail placement rather than expansion, midafternoon cocktails, as Hodges does in his well- he said. appointed space. All the charm adds up, as Hodges hails “We want to get it right,’’ Hodges said. “What’s from Tennessee and still spends half of each month in different is we’re about the retailer. It’s tough to be a the South. retailer today.” This year he became president of Bumi Sirotka, an Until recently, Hodges handled the buying for his athletic-inspired brand that is offering office-appropriate Westwin stores. clothes. This fall, Hodges launches Winter & Miggs, a To try to make the collections, and the stores that more upscale ready-to-wear collection. carry them, more distinctive, Winter & Miggs will be During an interview last week, Hodges, leaning on a heavy on prints and Bumi Sirotka has broadened its handmade harvest table, said, “This is our home. We’re color palette beyond tennis whites. With financial taking a different approach. It’s not traditional. We backing from Hodges and a silent investor, Bumi Sirotka want people to be comfortable here.” is expected to be sold in 70 specialty stores. Winter & When Bumi Sirotka, the designer behind the brand Miggs aims for 700 specialty stores. that bears her name, asks him to put on one of her polo Sara Rotman, founder of MODCo Creative (which shirts for a photograph, Hodges steps into the hallway to stands for My Own Damn Company), is designing the retrieve one from the dryer. “Our home” isn’t a complete prints for Winter & Miggs and is helping with the stretch considering Hodges lives in the upper level of creative side. Leslie Gordon Johnson has been hired as the 2,500-square-foot space when he is in New York. The designer for Winter & Miggs. Coincidentally, she was rest of his time is spent in Roanoke, Atlanta, Charlotte, voted “Miss Ole Miss” at the University of Mississippi S.C., and Tennessee, where he has other business when Hodges was president of the student body in 1986. obligations. They plan to offer some Southern hospitality this fall for Hodges owns Westwin, a Trenton, Tenn.-based five- the collection’s launch. They will have cocktail parties in store operation that sells women’s, men’s and children’s friends’ homes in Houston, Dallas, Charlotte, Atlanta apparel, and Nick Nack Patty Wack children’s clothing. and Washington, D.C. He claims to have “grown up on a cutting table,” since his “We want to go, but not sell them,’’ Johnson said. parents owned and ran Greenfield Manufacturing, before “We’ll just let them know this can be picked up at their selling to Kellwood in 1961. Founded in 1947, Greenfield PHOTO THOMAS IANNACCONE BY local specialty store. I hate it when you go to people’s supplied coats, parkas and field jackets to the U.S. armed forces during the Korean War. homes for one of those events and you feel like you have to buy something.” The company later made women’s apparel for Sears, Roebuck and Co., and employed The welcome mat is also out at the Upper East Side town house, where the kitchen almost 700 people at its peak. is stocked and fires will be set in the fireplace this winter to encourage buyers to For Bumi Sirotka and Winter & Miggs, sales representatives have been hired to linger. But generosity has its drawbacks. Buyers are becoming more inclined to make cover Dallas, Atlanta, Chicago, New England and the mid-Atlantic states. Both their midafternoon visits the last stop of the day, said Sirotka, laughing. “I tell them, ‘I collections will be focused on better specialty stores. Bumi Sirotka will continue to be bet you planned it that way.’” sold to resort shops, but is expanding beyond New York and Florida. Sirotka has — Rosemary Feitelberg UGG Layers on Outerwear Jackie Rogers Bows in East Hampton NEW YORK — UGG Australia, the company that created a NEW YORK — Some people go to the other store at 1034 1/2 Lexington Avenue frenzy for its knee-length sheepskin boots, wants to do Hamptons to relax, but Jackie Rogers is here. Shoppers at the Manhattan loca- the same with its first outerwear collection. banking on those who go to shop. tion are more than willing to also shop David Peyser Sportswear, Weatherproof Garment The designer, well aware that shop- in , and partly for that Co.’s parent company, has signed a three-year ping has become a leisure sport of sorts reason, the new location will be open licensing deal with Deckers Outdoor Corp., the for the well-heeled, has unveiled a 500- year-round. She said she expects the Santa Barbara, Calif.-based firm that owns square-foot store at 3 Newtown Mews in new space will generate about $1 mil- UGG. The eight-piece collection debuts this East Hampton. lion in retail sales the first year. fall at six major retailers and 100 specialty There were plenty of red, white and “I find that a lot of women who shop stores, said Eliot Peyser, principal of blue flowers at Saturday’s opening night in New York like to come to the David Peyser Sportswear. This fall’s bash and a clairvoyant who predicted Hamptons to shop during the week wholesale volume should exceed the Democrats’ Kerry-Edwards ticket when it’s quieter,” she said. $6.5 million, he said. will take the White House. So much so, that a $4,000 strapless UGG Australia “We had it all fixed,” Rogers laughed. chiffon gown, $870 blouses that tie dabbled in outerwear “I’m very politically minded.” under the bust, a marabou bolero jacket last year, “but it was not Rogers’ father was friendly with at $295 and a $250 organza shirt are our strength and it Joseph P. Kennedy, though his daugh- among the bestsellers in the new loca- wasn’t very meaningful,” ter’s interests extend far beyond poli- tion, she said. said Connie Rishwain, tics. A former model and actress, she Rogers, who first visited Long Island’s president of UGG has worked for Coco Chanel and East End as a child when a single-lane Australia. After being Federico Fellini, among others. Hints of road was the only route, sees the area be- approached by her colorful past are evident on the coming even more star-studded. “The Weatherproof, the company walls of the new store where her photo- Hamptons is a very glamorous place decided to license its outerwear graphs of Marcello Mastroianni, Laur- these days,’’ she said. “It’s really happen- to a firm with a “solid” reputation ence Olivier, Chanel, Jack Nicholson, ing. It’s becoming the Hollywood of the in the industry, she said. Andy Warhol and others offer a glimpse East Coast in a way, and everyone in the In addition to outerwear, UGG will also into her life. music industry is coming out here.” debut a handbag line at retail this fall via a Similar images can be seen at her — R.F. licensing deal with Jacobs and Leslie Hsu Designs LLC, a Springfield, N.J.-based handbag firm. A classic hoodie from the new line. Bloomingdale’s plans to showcase UGG Alexandros Furs. outerwear in its flagship’s windows for a week People attending his 7th on Sixth fashion beginning July 23, even though the collection will not ship to stores until next MARKET BASKET show in February will see a sampling of what’s month. This teaser should help create demand for the label, Peyser said. FUR HANNANT: Douglas Hannant has signed a to come. A print advertising campaign is Wholesale prices will range from $125 for a poncho to $275 for a stroller coat. one-year licensing deal with Alexandros Furs to planned for fall 2005. Shearlings, suede jackets and a fur-trimmed jean jacket are among the styles. produce a collection that will debut for fall Peyser said he liked that the brand’s boots appeal to a range of ages, from his 12- 2005. Hannant said he has designed fur MELTZER TAPPED: The Amerex Group has year-old daughter to his wife. Its strong celebrity following was another plus. pieces for his ready-to-wear collection but was promoted David Meltzer to group vice David Peyser Sportswear has developed UGG children’s outerwear with UGG eager to do a full line. Sable, mink, chinchilla, president of sales for women’s and men’s. He fans — and new mothers or mothers-to-be — Gwyneth Paltrow, Kate Hudson and broadtail and ermin will be among the offerings had been vice president of sales. Julia Roberts in mind, he said. in the 30-piece line. Wholesale prices are to Meltzer is responsible for overseeing sales “On a personal level, I was aware of the brand and liked the product very range from $1,500 for accessories to about growth for Amerex’s women’s and men’s much,’’ Peyser said. “We knew outerwear would be a natural extension. It was $40,000 for a sable or chinchilla coat. First- brands in the moderate and better divisions. available so we went after it.” year projected wholesale volume is $1 million, Meltzer reports to Renee McGovern, president — R.F. said Thomas Demetriades, creative director for of Amerex women’s and men’s group. 22 WWD, TUESDAY, JULY 13, 2004

PATTERNS, SAMPLES, Production Assistant SALES ASSISTANT With 2+ yrs. exp. in tracking samples, Must have minimum 1 yr. experience PRODUCTIONS fabrics ordered and production. An or- as a Sales Assistant. Working with Full servcie shop to the trade. Fine ganized detail oriented person, comput- department stores a plus. Must have Jersey + Rib Lycra fast work. 212-869-2699. er literate - use of excel. Know spec’s a computer skills including Word & Excel Fleece + plus. Fax resume to 212-840-1161 (AS400 would be great!) & have great Drake Fabrics communication & organizational skills. 718-389-8902 Production Assist. Please fax resume & salary history to: Better Imported Evening Dress Co. (310) 605-1751 seeks bright individual with min. 3 yrs experience. Candidate must have SALES ASST FASHION INDUSTRY SPECIALISTS import experience, computer literate, Seeking extremely organized & detail WHOLESALE AND RETAIL be organized and have excellent oriented sales asst for fast paced communication skills. Must be fluent sportswear mfg company. Must have -RESUMES- in English, Chinese is a plus. experience with major retailers. Must Please fax resume and salary be a team player. Knowledge of Excel Free Evaluation - Lifetime Updates requirements to Jodi at 212-944-5870. GILBERT CAREER RESUMES & Word. Fax Resume to: 212-947-7218 (800)967-3846 amex/mc/visa PRODUCTION fashionresumes.com SALES MANAGER fashioncareercenter.com Import Production Vertical woven fabric mill seeks east coast sales manager based in NYC area FASHION RESUMES SINCE 1970 Assistant with several years experience with We’ll be closed July 12-16th, Major Textile Importer seeks motivated proven organizational skills. Excellent Reopen July 19th. person to assist with sourcing, price negotiating and account management (212)697-1282 / (800)221-4425 negotiation, order-entry and daily com- skills required. Must be detailed www.resumesforfashion.com munication with overseas. Must be detail oriented. Send resume to: oriented and organized. Word & Excel knowledge a must. Experience in import Box#M 1072 aplus but not necessary. Please Fax all c/o Fairchild Publications resumes to: 212-704-0938 7 West 34th Street, 4th Fl New York, NY 10001 37th St. Full Floor 7500 ft. Production Planners Beautifully Built Move In Condition Growing intimates company seeks Prime Manhattan Jon 212-268-8043 several Planners with production Search-www.manhattanoffices.com experience. Must have GD analytical Sales/Production Assistant Showroom / Office / Retail GERBER &Excel skills. $60-65K. Call Carla: Apparel Co. seeks sales assistant with We find you space-best deal-no fee BUYER 212-947-3399 x12, Fax: 201-894-1186, production experience. Must be detail Sublet 525 7th/ready NYC, based company is seeking an PATTERNMAKER or email: [email protected] oriented with knowledge of specs and Garment Center Real Estate experienced off-price childrenswear Ladies’ sptswr. & outrwr mfr. seeks KARLYN FASHION RECRUITERS color solutions. Excellent benefits. Call Paul 212 947-5500 X 100 Depa International buyer. Fax resume to: (212) 216-0621 exp’d & creative patternmaker from Please fax resume: 212-967-9287 draping to prod’n patterns thru Gerber *PRODUCTION* CAD Operator - Recent grad or some Prod Asstnt - Imports - Activewear MFR Showrooms & Lofts Int’l. Production/Sourcing Mgr. exp as a CAD oper nec. MUST be good system. Candidate must be very techni- cal & possess strong computer skills. Sourcing Coordin.-Bi-lingual-Sptswr. Co. BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS w/ Illustrator to flat sketch. $27-30K Trim Coordin.-Sportswear-L.I. Location SEAMSTRESS/TAILOR Great ’New’ Office Space Avail Women’s Woven Apparel Division Les Richards Agcy - Call (212) 221-0870 Min. 5 yrs exp.,fax resume to Fusha Design Inc., based in N.Y.C. (212) 358-9287 Other [email protected] ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 based in NY, a successful yet grow- or Fax Resume to (212) 302-1161 Fashion District, seeks seamstress/tailor ing business with vendors currently COUTURE 1st-PROD’N (part-time). Minimum 5 years exp. in the Far East, and the Indian sub- PATTERNMAKER $125-175K GRAPHIC ARTIST Call Cindy at: 212-564-7741 Ready to Wear Dress/Jackets/Leathers Children’s/Tween sleepwear co. seeks continent, is looking for a motivated [email protected]; Call 212-947-3400 Graphic Artist. Entry level & experience individual with at least 5 years expe- will be considered Photoshop/Illustrator rience inasimilar position to negoti- CUTTER for MAC & excellent drawing skills a must. Showroom Assistant Please fax resume to: (212) 202-4395 Product Mgr-Prod Dvlpmt ate prices, monitor T&A till orders Nanettte Lepore seeks exp’d efficient Leading childrenswear co seeks a Women’s Apparel Import Co. seeks moti- 1411 B’way - 1 Year Sublease vated, detail orientated person to assist Low Floor; 530 sq. ft. w/special bonus are executed work with technical sample cutter. Must cut first samples, MANAGER - Cutting Dept. 5 years Product Manager. Involves all aspects duplicates, and production samples. Dancewear mgmt. exp. Knowledge of of product development from design VP w/sales & showroom clerical duties. 1 Month Free Rent if can design , review fabric/garment test- Must be computer literate with good Occupy Immediately. Call: 212-719-3220 At least 5 years exp a must. Fax stretch fabrics & Gerber systems Bur- inception to release to factory. Will ing per retailers requirements. Must resume 212-594-0038 lington, NJ, E-mail resume & salary maintain & handle line plans, style communication skills. Excellent entry- SoHo Loft Showroom Share be fully knowledgeable & competent requireements to: [email protected] tracking & seasonal status repts. Will level opportunity. Fax: 212-302-7750 Beautiful sunny loft showroom on work closely with Tech Designers, Broadway is looking to sub-lease half about fabrics, fibers, finishes, con- Design Assistant -Anna Sui- Merchandiser/ Sampleroom & Merchandising areas. of its showing space of 1800 Sq Ft. sumptions & garment constructions. Will standardize & approve raw material Please call Olga at: (917) 653-9375. 3-5 years exp. women’s sportswear. Outerwear Excellent organizing ability, computer Strong creative, conceptual, practical dvlpmt & be resp for maintaining TD-JACKETS $80K Candidate should have min five years sample lines. Must know AS400, Word, TD-JEANSWEAR $70K literacy, willingness to travel over- design skills. Tech knowledge of gar- merchandising experience. Knowledge ment construction a must. Illustrator, Excel & PC-CAD. Min 2 yrs exp req’d. TD-SWIMWEAR/Lingerie $70K seas are essential. Excellent salary of fabric, garment construction, and Please email your resume to: SPEC TECH Better Designer $37-57K Photoshop. Fax resume and salary costing for outerwear. Overseas and & benefits. Please E-mail resume: requirements to: 212 768-2358 [email protected] or fax: (212) 643-2826. [email protected]; Call 212-947-3400 domestic travel required. Excellent No phone calls. EOE. [email protected] Design Asst - Children’s Wear salary & benefits. Room to grow! 7th Ave. - Garment Center Sublet Flat sketching on a computer req’d. Please fax resume: 212-840-8338 Receptionist/ Must know Illustrator/ Photoshop. Office Space - Security Bldg. 600 sq. ft. PATTERNMAKER Office Assistant Tech Design Associate Furnished/Unfurnished. $2000 mo. Graphic Designer Exciting, multi-line fashion includs utilities. Call 212-997-2524 x 10 Graphic Designer with min. 3 yrs. exp. Custom Women’s Clothing Must have 3 years experience Outerwear. PATTERNMAKER Small Couture Operation accessories showroom seeking Strong Illustrator/Photoshop skills req’d. energetic and organized person. Duties include ordering accessories for Tel: 212-465-8451 / Fax: 212-465-8461 prod’n.; reviewing final spec pkgs, spec’ing Well established, high-end Fax resume to Dept. 55: 212-564-9507 Please fax resume to: (212) 244.0330 women’s fashion designer garment prod’n. from 1st fit to product, DESIGNER - 3+ yrs exp designing/doing communicating w/mfr. on prod’n. garment, (whose label can be found in Saks, artwork for a Boys Infant - 18 sports- PATTERNMAKERS and occasionally creating proto pkgs. Neiman Marcus and Bergdorf’s) si wear mfr/Photoshop nec. $60-70K •Head Pat Mkr, Dresses or Jackets..$150K Receptionist Must be a team player willing to work seeking highly exp’d Production Les Richards Agcy - Call (212) 221-0870 •Gerber/PDS. Jackets/Outerwear..$75-85K in a fast paced environment. Salary Seeking hard working individual to han- commensurate w/experience. E-mail re- •Better Bridge/Bridal/Evening...... $$$$$$ dle phones and various administration Patternmaker. 5-10 yrs. experience [email protected]; Call: 212-947-3400 sumes: [email protected] a MUST.Great working environment, DESIGNERS (3) $100K+ duties. Must be organized and comput- (1) Contemp (1) Missy Moderate (1) Jrs er literate. Great phone manners and excellent salary and generous Sweaters & Knits Exp a Must PR ASSISTANT desk appearance a must. benefits package. Fashion Network: 201-503-1060/Fax 1070 Bridal designer & TV host Henry Roth Please fax resume and salary requirements to 212-575-1644. TECH. DESIGNER Fax resume: 212-594-0038 requires a Public Relations Assistant Importer seeks individual w/ 2-3 yrs. DESIGNERS with min. 2-3 yrs. PR/Marketing experi- exp. Leather grmts highly pfd. High *Sr. Designer Sweaters. Pvt Label...... $100K ence. Excellent presentation and volume/quick turnaround. Work with *Asst Designer Contemp Pvt Label...... $40-55K communication skills to maintain his RELOCATION Designers and create tech pkgs, includ- Accts. Rec./Chrgback Col. [email protected]; Call: 212-947-3400 brand dominance in the bridal and ing construction and initial specs for Leading midtown accessories/novelty fashion industries. PAID TO FLORIDA factory use. Exc communication & fol- Co. seeks organized, energetic individ- Fax resumes to: *Sr. Tech. Lingerie/Foundation...... $75-85K low up skills req. Fast paced environ- ual. Tremendous opportunity for DESIGNER/ WOVENS Attention Miriam: 212-245-1511 or *Spec Tech/Assoc Tech Lingerie...$35-65K ment. Only those ready to work hard growth. Exp. in dealing w/ major retail Requires 5 yrs experience!! email [email protected] [email protected]; Call 212-947-3400 need apply. Fax resume 646-435-7412 stores. Proficient w/ Microsoft applica- Fast paced women’s private label co. tions. Good communications skills. seeks strong, talented designer. Must Fax resume to 212-594-0452 research fabric w/overseas offices. Great Prod/Development Manager RETAIL/PART TIME Admin Since 1967 flat sketch skills, garment knowledge Apparel marketing co sees a detail orient- & understanding of fit. Self starter w/ ed & creative individual for our Columbus, SERVICE Technical Associate W-I-N-S-T-O-N trained eye for trends, prints & colors. OH office. Must be able to manage all Must be highly effective, organized team aspects of private label product develop- COORDINATOR Designer APPAREL STAFFING player w/ Photoshop / Illustrator exp. ment from initial concept phase Import private label co. seeking detail DESIGN*SALES*MERCH Fax resumes: 212-556-5431 through delivery. Will work with our POLO UNDERWEAR oriented individual w/ good organization ADMIN*TECH*PRODUCTION design & sales teams on fabric, garment Sara Lee Branded Apparel has an excit- and comm. skills. Responsible for com- (212)557-5000 F: (212)986-8437 Director of Marketing development & production. Overseas ing opportunity to help drive up the municating with customers & factories experience a plus. volume growth of Polo Ralph Lauren to resolve tech pattern related issues, APPAREL JOBS Blissworld, a fast growing and leader in the spa, cosmetics and catalog arena Fax resumes to 212-481-0447 Men’s Underwear, Sleepwear, Hanes prepare detailed import tech and spec 1)Artists: Girls-Boys-Juniors 2)SpecTechs or email [email protected] Ultimate, and Champion Underwear in packages for production to overseas 3)Designers-assoc-assists boy-girl-YG men-Jr is seeking a Director of Marketing to oversee all marketing related initia- Westchester/White Plains. factories. Our fast paced environment req. Call (212) 643-8090 or fax: 643-8127 (agcy) strong knowl of woven, knit and sweater tives for the Bliss Spas and Bliss and In this part-time position, you will Remede brands. Responsibilities in- garment construction, ability to manage Artist Production Artist achieve and maintain optimal product multiple tasks & priorities and meet dead- clude the development of "thinking Production Artist needed for creating placement and visual presentation. out of the box" marketing strategies lines. Salary commensurate with exp. Studio complete production packages. Experi- You will be responsible to service Fax resume to: 212-868-2801 Seeking exp’d. CAD Design Artist. Also and brand identity initiatives. The ide- ence with prints, repeats, color separa- anywhere from 5 to 25 retail stores in seeking exp’d. Hand Painting Artist. al candidate will possess strong writ- tions, embroidery etx. Mastery of top areas within a local geographical Fax: 212-202-3723 ten and verbal communications skills; Photoshop & Illustrator a must. Must region of Westchester/White Plains. E-mail: [email protected] excellent attention to detail; and profi- be fast, accurate & detail oriented & 1-2 years’ retail and merchandising ciency in MS Office. Senior level mar- Technical Designer ready to work in a fast-paced environ- experience is required, as well as a Ladies & Children’s sleepwear co. keting experience required in a ment. This position requires the skills valid driver’s license and dependable Assist Prod’n Coord beauty/cosmetics arena. Vanilla types seeks experienced individual. Full to take artwork from designers ideas transportation. A high school diploma knowledge of garment construction, Major sptswr importer seeks highly or- need not apply; we are seeking cherry to finished production. is required, 4-year college degree is a ganized and detail oriented indiv with vanilla swirls. For immediate consider- sketching & spec sheets. Knowledge Email: [email protected] plus. You must be presently located in in Photoshop & Illustrator a plus. Min. outstanding communication and com- ation, please email your resume to: Fax: 212-695-0203 the area of consideration. PATTERN/SAMPLES puter skills, to work in a high energy [email protected] 2-3 years of exp. required. Must be Reliable. High quality. Low cost. Fast prod’n dept. Knowledge of Mandarin is For more detailed information about bilingual both Korean & English. work. Small/ Lrg production 212-629-4808 aplus. 1 year experience Employee Production Assistant our opportunity, and for prompt, confi- Fax resume to: 212-869-3938 or friendly with full company benefits! Factory Manager Leading children’s wear importer seeks dential consideration for our Email: [email protected] Patterns/Samples/Beading Please fax resume to: Acc. company located in LIC seeks Production Assistant with min 2-3 years Part-Time Retail Service Coordinator JM @ 212-944-2867 hands on person to oversee domestic exp. Responsibilities include: daily e-mail position in Westchester/White Plains, Duplicates Cut & Sew production with staff of 40 sewers. communication with overseas agents, please apply and submit your resume Full Service - Small Production Candidates should have 5 years exp in follow up production schedules, coordi- online by typing in the following web Technical Designer Call Johnny: 212-278-0608/646-441-0950 BUYER/ASST manufacturing, construction, products, nate private label programs and sales address into your internet browser: Part Time Huge Opportunity! leather & man-made materials and cal- as well as lab dip, print & embroidery http://jobs-saralee.icims.com/saralee_jobs/jobs/ Large apparel company is looking for a Large LI-based very high volume retail culating raw material consumption. Must approvals, data entry, track all testing candidate/job.jsp?jobid=1359&mode=view technical designer with young mens / PATTERNS, SAMPLES, operation needs a buyer/assistant. have strong leadership skills, be highly or- &approval requirements. Must be detail boys experience. Individual should Must have apparel experience. Please ganized, computer literate and have ex- oriented with good communication skills. www.saralee.com have knowledge of flat sketching, PRODUCTIONS call Marty or Liz at 631-420-0890; Fax perience preparing large shipments to E-mail resume w/ salary requirements to: grading and garment construction. All lines,Any styles. Fine Fast Service. resume to 631-752-7785 or Email department stores. [email protected] or fax: Search for "Westchester" 3 days a week. Call Sherry 212-719-0622. [email protected] Email resumes to: [email protected] 732-636-4724 attention HR. Equal Opportunity Employer Fax resume 212-239-2766 WWD/GLOBAL, JULY 2004 23 WWW.WWD.COM Chicago’s Pulse Rises at New Show

By Beth Wilson CHICAGO — The first edition of Pulse, Chicago’s new urbanwear market, scored big with Midwest retailers, but left some manufacturers hungry for more business. Several retailers applauded the convenience, size and location of the three-day show that ended June 25. Pulse, which covered about 54,000 square feet on the eighth floor of Chicago’s Merchandise Mart and focused on hip-hop, urban and extreme sports fashions, fea- tured companies such as Rocawear, Shady Ltd., Azzuré, Pelle Pelle and Phat Farm. “I think it has a nice flavor,” said Jermaine Parkey, owner of Hip Hop Heaven, in Des Moines, which sells 70 percent men’s and 30 percent women’s urbanwear. “It’s a good, comfortable atmosphere.” Tyrone Dozier, owner of TCT Casual Gear in Detroit, said, “A lot of the top lines were here. The sales reps were accessible. It’s clean and not real crowded.” The lack of constant crowds, however, disappointed some vendors. “There is not as much foot traffic as I thought from the amount of mailing they said they did,” said Chris Murphy, Midwest sales representative for Parasuco Jeans. Johanne Labonte, vice president for Parasuco sales, said the market’s opening day was busy and the Canadian company received several accounts. Overall, Labonte said, “it’s been a pretty good show.” Although business slowed after the first day, Janet Eriks, a sales representative from Taheri, said she was pleased with the exposure. “Pulse has been great,” said Eriks, noting that the women’s wear line featuring bold print polyester and spandex off-the-shoulder tops had opened eight ac- counts. “We’re really not hip-hop, but people are look- ing for our look.” Because the market’s second day lagged, Eriks said she would have to weigh the pros and cons of returning to Pulse’s second show on Sept. 8-10. Dozier, meanwhile, who said he ordered more than KAREN HOYT PHOTOS BY expected at the market, selected jeans from Pelle Pelle, Three fall looks from Johnny Girl. Striped poncho-and-pant ensemble from Status Symbol. Pepe, Azzuré and Indigo Red, and French-cuff shirts from Nero and Pelle Pelle. from the latest brands. Overall, Parkey stuck to his buying close to 800 or 900 lines. The Detroit retailer plans to return to Pulse in budget, but predicts the show will grow in size and scope. Dozier, who was generally pleased with the selection, September, when he predicts the crowds will be larger, Susan McCullough, vice president for apparel for said he was disappointed Enyce was not represented “once they do more advertising,” he said. Merchandise Mart Properties Inc., which runs the when marketing materials indicated the company would. Parkey also did most of his buying from big-name ur- Merchandise Mart, said the show exceeded expectations. McCullough said Enyce had planned to attend Pulse banwear brands, ordering clubwear and jogging suits “It was absolutely fantastic,” she said. “We had great but did not have samples ready. McCullough also expects from Baby Phat, basic and velour sweatsuits and button- attendance. We had retailers from New Jersey and Cali- the September show to be larger because of its better tim- up shirts from Phat Farm, along with items from fornia. A first show is a tough thing, but we had every major ing, with more companies releasing spring collections. Drunknmunky and Meezan Artcouture. brand there. It was everything we expected and more.” McCullough said organizers plan to attract more ven- Parkey said his clientele, generally men and some McCullough did not disclose the number of retailers dors in categories such as board sports, urban dress-up, women ages 14 to 34, come looking for the latest styles who attended, but estimated about 175 exhibitors sold better denim and streetwear.

USA Director Account Executive $150K+ RAINMAKER SALES - OFF-PRICE/ WATCH SALES Missy/Men’s sleepwear, underwear, & daywear HIGH-END WOMEN’S WEAR Well established children’s products Well established watch company seeks FASHION HOUSE Jennifer *Just Mgmt* 800-544-5878 SPECIALTY STORES [email protected] company seeking to reinvent itself. in-house sales help for its NY Show- Fast-paced French International Fashion Looking for a creative and strategic Jones New York Intimates room. Must be experienced, energetic, Company with 140 + stores/franchisees minded salesperson with the ability to Licensed by Madison Intimate Brands willing to travel and have existing con- in Europe and Asia is looking for a USA make things happen. Great opportunity tacts with chain, departments stores Director to jump-start its high-end French With continued growth, we seek a Account Executive for growth. E-mail resume to: motivated Sales professional to sell and specialty stores. Minimum 2 years Paris Jean Line Womenswear brand in the , [email protected] experience. Attractive commissions or wholesale and retail. Responsible for all and service our existing specialty store Hot new fashion contemporary jean line Leading Bridge sportswear co. seeks clientele and off-price accounts. Must salary/commission. aspects of the Company’s USA operations, seasoned sales pro. Must have 3+ yrs from France. If you are Hip, Motivated, have great communication and presen- Please fax resume: 212-356-0016 or and Well-Connected; Fax 212-787-8636 including setting-up the Company’s managing dept store accts and be very E-mail: [email protected] planned Los Angeles & New York, bou- tation ability; along with excellent com- analytical. Fax resume to 212.695.9483 or puter skills (Excel spreadsheets, Word, tiques & showrooms. Establishing and email to [email protected] Sales Assistant meeting deadlines and revenue targets, Email). Minimum 3 yrs. prior sales YOUNG MEN’S SPORTSWEAR Major children’s wear company has great experience in the apparel industry. essential. Periodic reporting to Head- opportunity for asst to VP of licensing. Fast track importer of men’s sports- quarters. Requires strategic as well as Excellent salary, benefits. Email re- wear seeks aggressive seller. Must Candidate must have experience with sume w/subject header: Sales - Spec operational skills. Strong leadership, Jr Knits - Showroom Sales target partners on line and WM retail link. St: Your Name; to: [email protected] have dept/specialty/urban contacts. organizational and communication Must be extremely organized, have good Must have exp developing sales SODA BLU skills a must. Based in Seattle or LA. Very Busy Jr. Sportswear Showroom programs. Excellent oppty for right in- communicationskills and be strong in CONTEMPORARY SPORTSWEAR Some travel (domestic and international). seeks a go-getter to sell Jr. Sportswear excel/ spreadsheets. Some travel required. Showroom dividual. Will consider men’s/ladies (all categories). Great Opportunity! MOST TERRITORIES OPEN French a must. Turkish a plus. Salary Salary commensurate w/ experience. sales exp. Fax resume: 212-967-0643 212-921-3505 $70 - 80K annually + Health Insurance Fax resume to: President 212-764-6698 Please email resume to: High-End Women’s Italian Ready-To-Wear Fax: + Commission. Please e-mail resumes to: [email protected] Co. seeks a Showroom Rep to house [email protected] Spring/Summer 2005 collection in New York. Must have strong industry contacts Junior/Senior Sales Exec and volume sales. Interviews in N.Y. 954-390-0114 Sportswear Apparel Mfr. seeks dynamic, SALES EXECUTIVE Please Fax resumes to: motivated individual w/good communi- cation & follow-up skills in Jr., Missy, Est’d Missy Sportswear & dress Co. seeks Large Sizes, and Kids’. 3-5 years experi- sales pro. Solid relationships with Dept. SHOWROOM SALES BOUTIQUE SALES ence in Apparel Sales to Dept., Chain, stores, Specialty Chains, & Catalogs Busy W. Village shops need sales pros. and Specialty Stores preferable. Salary req’d. Must be a team player, have Contemporary Clothing Co. seeks hungry, Min. 3 yrs. shoe/fashion exp. commensurate w/exp.. E-mail resumes knowledge of the competition & market- aggressive, sharp Salesperson. Must have Fax Alida: 212-675-6360 to: [email protected] place and be able to manage business. great store contacts & strong relation- Please fax resume to: (323) 725-3304 ships in women’s contemporary market. or email [email protected] Get Up & Go attitude needed. Individual MEN’S COLLECTION should be efficient, professional, and Loro Piana, a leading luxury manufac- MANAGER computer literate. Salary/Commission to turer, has outstanding opportunities SODA BLU compensate skills. Fax/E-mail resume to: REGIONAL SALES 416-781-7706 / [email protected] available for qualified individuals to represent our men’s collection at our YOUNG CONTEMPORARY WEST COAST Sales Executive new shops in Neiman Marcus and ...is seeking an experienced sales guru Sr. Account Executive Bergdorf Goodman. Candidates must Opportunity for Aggressive to manage the West Coast Sales Terri- Exclusive Children’s Group is seeking have 5 years experience in luxury re- tory. Responsibilities include develop- adynamic and enthusiastic Sales Est’d contemporary knitwear company tail sales. Responsibilities will include Sales Pro’s ing sales strategies, staffing and re- Executive for its NY show room to seeks self motivated individual with developing and maximizing the client cruitment, account management & maintain and develop accounts. The excellent communication/organizational base as well as ensuring customer service Division Head/V.P. Sales to Join Our Expanding Team. even planning & coordination at coun- candidate must be an excellent com- skills. Must have 5 yrs. experience with levels meet and exceed our customers’ ACCESSORIES Must have Established Accounts. ter. Prior exp in a wholesale manage- municator with strong organizational Dept. and Specialty store following. expectations. Please send resume to: Dynamic, well connected leader in Mid- 212-921-3505 ment experience required. Please send and follow-up skills. Computer literate Computer skills are essential. Human Resources Tier & Mass is seeking a company that Fax: your resume to: a must. Great Benefits package. Please email your resume with salary Email: [email protected] wants growth, and is financially com- [email protected] Please e-mail at: [email protected]. requirements to: [email protected] Fax: 212-826-2302 mitted to that goal. Call: 609-238-3306