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NOVEMBER 2012 thE cOMplEtE guidE tO gO® ®

wheremilan.com

Courtesy of Damiani®

MILAN LUXURY LIFESTYLE Art, culture, food

Shopping, Dining anD and Don’t miSS what’S nEEww in thE WHERE MILAN PROJECT IS ENDORSED BY

TOWARDS

containS gEnEgEnEraL anD thEmatic mapS oF miLan Milan November 2012 where tip the guide

22 shopping Boutiques & Passion Shops Listings Major shopping areas and our choice of the best speciality stores

42 dining Dining Listings Listings by type of cuisine

51 entertainment Entertainment & Nightlife Listings The latest information about how to enjoy your stay in Milan

56 museums & attractions The “DAMIANI D.ICON” rings are each woman’s companion, at every moment Museums & Attractions Listings of the day. Launched in spring, in two ceramic versions, white with the D in pink Major sightseeing attractions plus museums gold and a little diamond or black with the D in white gold and a little diamond, and events the DAMIANI D.ICON rings were subsequently enriched with a D in white full pavé diamonds. Damiani now proposes three even more precious versions of the DAMIANI D.ICON in white or pink gold with the D full pavé and white gold 60 essentials full pavé with the D in pink gold. The full forms of DAMIANI D.ICON become even Transport and useful information more precious and glamorous. Round earrings and bangle bracelets complete the Tips for getting around and about in the city collection. www.damiani.com Damiani Boutique, via Montenapoleone, 10. T: 02 76028088. M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 Rocca 1794, piazza , 25. www.rocca1794.com. T: 02 8057447. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4 62 map Milan map

4 milan Between history and Science ALSO INSIDE The capital of business, fashion and design is also known for its scientific tradition and its commitment to research, 02 Milano Loves You from to . 08 Hot Dates 10 City Billboard 12 European Exclusive Event Given women’s love affair with shoes, la Rinascente and Swarovski Elements have joined forces to give life to the “Sparkling Contrasts” project.

NOVEMBER 2012 THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO GO® Milan ® on the cover © courtesy of Damiani 14 where to Buy wheremilan.com

Ideas and suggestions for an elegant grey total look. Courtesy of Damiani®

MILAN LUXURY 16 Discovering Excelsior milano LIFESTYLE Art, culture, food SHOPPING, DINING AND and fashion A shopping experience by Umayya Theba, South African ENTERTAINMENT DON’T MISS WHAT’S NEW IN THE CITY WHERE MILAN PROJECT IS ENDORSED BY

TOWARDS contributor of Where Milan and lover of Italian style. CONTAINS GENERAL AND THEMATIC MAPS OF MILAN 18 what’s new in the city Enter a whole new world of fashion and entertainment connect with us online with Milan’s latest openings and temporary shops.

wheretraveler.com Get the city buzz online from our local editors.

www.wheretraveler.com 1 Milano Loves You Your traveliN g coM paNioN siNce 1936® ®

On 5 October, at 6am, the centre of the city was bustling with friends of Where® whereM agaziN e for the Where Milan Run 2012. The group was headed by Chiara Bisconti, where milan WHERE MILAN Milan’s vibrant City Manager for Welfare and Sport (first picture, on the right, published by: PROJECT IS ENDORSED BY with Fabrizio Cosi-Podisti da Marte on the left and blogger Antonio Capasso). WHERE ITALIA SRL In addition to being the motto of the initiative, Milano Loves You is also the Via Ezio Biondi, 1. 20154 Milano. T: 02 349951 - Fax 02 33107015 philosophy of all of us at Where®. Not only do we love you, our guests, visiting [email protected] the city, but we also love and care about people in need, including children www.wheremilan.com undergoing cancer treatment in Milan who not only benefitted from the PuBLISHER AND EDITOR-IN-CHIEf Andrea Jarach ([email protected]) proceeds collected from the Where Milan Run but who will also benefit, in the future, from any donations that you might like to make using our editorial (proedi comunicaZione srl) MANAGING DIRECTOR PROEDI COMuNICAzIONE www.runinmilan.com site. In fact, the initiative involving volunteers who are Daniele Misrachi prepared to accompany you, free-of-charge, each morning from your hotel EDITORIAL COORDINATION Alessandra Finzi in total safety while admiring the sights, as you run through the city, will be ([email protected]) continuing. All that we ask you is to make a small donation, directly online, MAGAzINE EDITORIAL STAff Carey Bernitz, Elena Binda, to housing accomodation for children. Ask your concierge! Francesca Hasbani (city reporter), Stefania Vida (lifestyle and fashion editor) WEB EDITORIAL STAff Where Milan Run, Milano, 5 ottobre 2012, Alessia Genovese (www.wheremilan.com), In the other pictures: Galleria Vittorio Emanuele Elena Peverata (www.wheretraveler.com) Alisa Auns, Where’s beautiful DESIGNER Elisabetta Giudici Russian editor; Andrea CONTRIBuTORS & CONSuLTANTS Adriano Caramenti Riscassi, our friend who is (photographer), Floriana di Maio, Marco Gatti, Joy deeply committed to social Lacanlale, Fabio Lancini, Giacomo Magistrelli, Andrea Milanesi, Carol Oberman, Simone Pinter, David Ross issues; runners passing by (Hotelerie), Micol Sarfatti, Chiara Tarenzi (city reporter) the Duomo before dawn ICONOGRAPHY Tips Images (www.tipsimages.com) and, in the poster above, the CARTOGRAPHY Mario Camerini, Compass Maps Ltd. (UK), incredible image shot by Urban File Luca Podetti in the strangely MARKETING & ADVERTISING Isa Faleschini, deserted Galleria Vittorio Marta Mailhac, Rachele Renna Federico Cavicchioli (Soluzione d’Immagine), Emanuele II. Nicola Odone (Tedoforo) ADMINISTRATION Katia Greto PRODuCTION & CIRCuLATION, SALES SuPPORT COORDINATOR Paola Grilli

HOTEL PR SERVICES Maria Granata MILANO LOVES YOU ([email protected])

CuSTOMER SERVICES Cristina Garbini, Maria Grazia Rubino

Il mensile per i visitatori internazionali compie due anni REG. TRIB. MILANO No. 453, 19 JULy 2010 WHERE ITALIA SRL, ISCRITTO AL ROC No. 20182 DEL 14 SETTEMBRE 2010

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2 WHERE MiLAN I NOVEMBER 2012 www.wheretraveler.com 3 Milan

whereThe month’s top entertainment, dining and artsnow

focus Milan between history and science The capital of business, fashion and design OPENING PAGE: Between the 15th and the 16th century, the city of is also known for its longstanding scientific The “beating wing” on show Milan hosted Leonardo da Vinci who had been tradition and its commitment to research, at the new interactive laboratory invited to work on several engineering initiatives, “i.lab leonardo” at the Museo innovation and experimentation including the and a project for the Duomo. della Scienza e della Tecnologia Today, the city is still known for several of (MUST). the world’s best universities including the Politecnico di Milano (one of whose first fROM LEfT TO RIGHT: students was Albert Einstein). In fact, it was at The “Galleria Leonardo” at MUST; this seat of learning that numerous inventions, the ; destined to change the world, first took place the renowned “aerial screw” including, for example, the invention of plastic at the “i.lab leonardo”, a 3D or the chip which allows our smartphones to IA representation of a Leonardo’s recognize movement. drawing.

ON LEONARDO’S TRAIL TECNOLO g The Museo Nazionale della Scienza e

DELLA della Tecnologia Leonardo da Vinci-MuST (Leonardo da Vinci National Museum of Science and Technology) is one of the most LeonArdo’s MAchines SCIEN zA E important of its kind in the world boasting an influx of as many as 400,000 visitors per year. MUST hosts the “Galleria Leonardo”, the largest collection of machines built and based on

DELLA Its collection includes 15,000 items which sketches and projects found in manuscripts penned by Leonardo da Vinci: war machines, testify to the development of science and aircraft and ships for civil use and architectural models. Leonardo worked on all aspects of techniques, both in and throughout engineering, experimenting with new ideas and, at times, coming up with daring solutions the world, from the 19th century to present- (www.museoscienza.org/leonardo). day times. The main body of the complex, a NASSIRI / MUSEO

A. 6th century monastery, houses the Galleria Claudio Giorgione, curator of the “Leonardo Arte&Scienza” department at MUST, Leonardo da Vinci, dedicated to “engineering” enlightened us about these amazing models. projects developed by the Tuscan genius (see SCRE w: box). Its large rail pavilion traces the evolution Tell us about the relationship between Leonardo’s drawings and the reconstructions of his machines. of rail transport, from horse-driven trams to It’s important to remember that, first and foremost, these models are like 3D representations of Leonardo’s drawings, not gleaming locomotives. A real legend of old- “reconstructions”; in fact, at that time, most of Leonardo’s ideas remained on paper. world Milan is the “Gamba de legn”, a steam tram built in 1879, which connected the city to To which period in time do the first machines date? outlying areas. Conversely, the nearby naval-air The first models were built by engineers in the army in 1952, as a prelude to the inauguration of the museum. For the most part, their pavilion tells the story of flight, from the first construction involved the use of the same materials that Leonardo would have been able to use at that time, namely, wood, metal and rope. trail-blazing models to jet planes, as well as that of navigation, with a section hosting a real 1/1 Was Leonardo the exponent of two cultures of his times, i.e. art and science? scale model of a transatlantic liner, featuring The museum explores the unexpected ways that art and science connect. Our visitors can choose from among two types of educational

g w IN g: M. FERMARIELLO - AERIAL EATIN assault boats, nautical instruments and models experiences at our laboratory: a program dedicated to machines and a program devoted to artistic techniques. b

© of sailing ships. Once outside, visitors can also

4 WHERE MiLAN I NOVEMBER 2012 www.wheretraveler.com 5 where now Milan

admire the Enrico Toti submarine dating Not far from the Planetarium, you can admire ABOVE: back to the Cold War (for info and reservations the characteristic Neo-Romanesque profile of Milan has given to the world regarding tours visit www.museoscienza.org the Museo Civico di Storia Naturale (Natural several scientific milestones: from T: 02 48555330). Additionally, the latest History Museum), which offers a fascinating nanotechnology to comminications, contemporary technology can be experienced display of rare minerals, splendid examples from chemical to medicine. The firsthand at the complex’s laboratories of zoology, reconstructions of the first Politecnico di Milano robotic dedicated to robotics, genetics and environments inhabited by man and large department is at the edge of research, biotechnologies. fossil skeletons of prehistoric animals (Open innovation, and experimentation. Tues-Sun 9am-5.30pm. Full price ticket 3 In the picture one of the experiments fROM LEONARDO TO THE STARS euros. Free admission on Friday afternoon. for children at the MUST. In addition to the MUST, several other scientific www..milano.it. T: 02 88463280. Corso institutions had marked the history of Milan Venezia, 55. M1 ). IA as a city of science. EXPO 2015 At the Osservatorio Astronomico di Brera Alternatively, in , the

(Astronomical Observatory), founded in city’s other green lung, you will find the Milan is getting ready to host TECNOLO g 1762, you can visit the historic domes and a unique, Liberty-style Acquario Civico (Civic Expo 2015, dedicated to the theme collection of old astronomical instruments Acquarium). The only surviving building of of nutrition, standing for safety, DELLA (for info and reservations visit www.mi.astro.it. those constructed for the world Expo of 1906 quality of food and environmental T: 02 72320300. Via Brera, 28. M2 Lanza). in Milan, dedicated to the technology of

sustainability. Thanks to the SCIEN zA E Just near , inside its beautiful transport. It houses 36 tanks filled with more Public Gardens, you can find the Planetario di than 100 species of fish, living in recreated creation of a futuristic “orchard” DELLA Milano “ulrico Hoepli” (Planetarium). Discover environments from the Amazon to the surrounded by water, its aim is the joys of stargazing, thanks to its spectacular Mediterranean, with particular emphasis on to deal with a number of themes screenings animated by a number of cutting- Italian seabeds. (Tues-Sun 9am-1pm/2pm- related to science, environmental edge technologies (screening times: Tues, 5.30pm. www.acquariocivicomilano.eu. sustainability and biotechnologies Thurs. 9pm; Sat, Sun 3pm and 4.30 pm. Viale G. Gadio, 2. T: 02 88465750. M2 Lanza). applied to agriculture. For info visit www.comune.milano.it. T: 02 88463340. Corso Venezia, 57. M1 Palestro, www.expo2015.org M. FERMARIELLO - MUSEO

M1 Porta Venezia). ©

6 WHERE MiLAN I NOVEMBER 2012 THIS MONTH IN MILAN Hot Dates November 2012 THuRSDAY 15 TuESDAy 6 MuSicAL coMEBAck. “Priscilla La Regina rediscovering the magic del Deserto”, the musical which won over the hearts of the public and critics alike when it of cirque du Soleil first debuted in Milan, will be back in town to Alegría, the acclaimed Cirque du Soleil touring project will once again enthral audiences on the stage of . debut in Milan ( forum-Assago) with a cast of www.priscillailmusical.it artists and musicians from 15 different countries. A Baroque, opera-style performance, with theatre costumes, original live SATuRDAy 10 ANNivERSARy ExcLuSivE. This year, famed music and an elaborate set that highlights the extraordinary musician Ennio Morricone will be celebrating athletic and artistic ability of the performers. The result is a ten years of concerts, a special occasion to listen star-spangled amalgam of skill, strength and speed, paired to an exclusive live performance conducted by the artist himself at -Assago. with elegance and high drama. www.cirquedusoleil.com Ask your concierge.

SuNDAy 11 MuSic AND THEATRE. “Aperitivo in concerto”, the traditional Sunday morning jazz program hosted at Teatro Manzoni, will be back with a performance by renowned Italian saxophonist Idris Ackamoor and The Pyramids. On Sunday 25: acclaimed Israeli band, “Third World Love”, will make its first world première in a never-seen-before performance. www.aperitivoinconcerto.com

TuESDAy 13 RuBBLE AND REvELATioN. The Nicola Trussardi Foundation presents “Rubble and Revelation - Rivelazioni e Rovine”, the first solo exhibition by Cyprien Gaillard ever to be held at an Italian institution, an evocative reflection on themes related to destruction and decadence. www.fondazionenicolatrussardi.com

TuESDAY 13 MoNDAy 19 Rock iN MiLAN. Milan’s Mediolanum Forum- two-wheeled Assago will host an evening dedicated to British band Skunk Anansie, currently engaged in a Beauties European tour. A pure, adrenalin-filled, rock extravaganza. Ask your Concierge. This year, Eicma, one of the most important international motorcycle THuRSDAy 22 shows on the globe, will be celebrating PoRTRAiTS of A LADy. A unique event its 70th anniversary at the Rho which outlines the historic covers created by fieramilano fairgrounds (see Map discographic cover designer Luciano Tallarini, page 61). The event (13-14 November featuring portraits of famous singers who have reserved for industry members, gone down in the history of Italian music. 15-18 open to the public) offers a The event will be hosted on a once-off basis series of new, exciting initiatives which at the BrandLand Triumph space in piazza will transform Milan into the capital of . www.lucianotallarini.it CR&S Duu, hand biking. www.eicma.it

DON’T MISS VISITING WWW.WHEREMILAN.COM before leaving: every week something new in the city!

8 WHERE MiLAN I NOVEMBER 2012 city Billboard November 2012 NOT-TO-BE-MISSED IN MILAN

paLazzo rEaLE pinacotEca out oF town  until 17 March 2013 amBroSiana  1st December 2012 COSTANTINO 313 D.C.  until 9 December LA SERENATA AL VENTO Celebrating the anniversary “DE LuDO GEOMETRICO” AT TEATRO DONIzETTI, BERGAMO of the Edict of Milan Studies and drawings of Leonardo da www.serenatalvento.org www.comune.milano.it Vinci’s Codex Atlanticus  until 7 January 2013 Open Mon 2.30pm-7.30pm; AT PINACOTECA AMBROSIANA LE GRANDI fERRARI Tues, Wed, Fri and Sun 9.30am-7.30pm; AND SACRESTIA DEL BRAMANTE DI SERGIO PININfARINA Thurs and Sat 9.30am-10.30pm. Open Tues-Sun 9am-7pm. Piazza Pio XI, 2. AT FERRARI MUSEUM, MARANELLO (MO) Piazza Duomo, 12. T: 02 92800375. M1-M3 Duomo.Map F5. museo.ferrari.com M1-M3 Duomo. Map F5 www.ambrosiana.it www.comune.milano.it/palazzoreale  until 6 January 2013 FaBBrica PABLO PICASSO. Capolavori DEL VaporE dal Museo Nazionale Picasso di Parigi  until 17 february 2013 Open Mon-Wed 8.30am-7.30pm; BODY WORLDS Thurs-Sun 9.30am-11.30pm Open Mon-Sun 10am-8pm; www.mostrapicasso.it Thurs and Sat 10am-11pm. Via Procaccini, 4. Map E2. triEnnaLE DESign www.fabbricadelvapore.org muSEum  until 24 february 2013 FairS TDMW: GRAfICA  7-9 November FIFTH EDITION ROBOTICA 2012 Open Tues-Sun 10.30am-8.30pm; Humanoid and Service Robots Thurs-Fri 10.30am-11pm. Viale Alemagna, 6. AT RHO FAIRGROUND T: 02 724341. M1-M2 . MAP D3 www.robotica.pro www.triennale.org  13-18 November EICMA MOTO International Motorcycle Exhibition AT RHO FAIRGROUND www.eicma.it WORLD’S PREMIER OPERA HOUSE OFFERS A RICH PROGRAM. BLuE notE miLano www.teatroallascala.org  6 and 7 November  4, 18, 22 , Siegfried; cond. MADELEINE PEYROuX D. Barenboim, dir. G. Cassiers  8 November  6, 8, 10, 11, 13, 15, 17 VERDI; TAKE 6 Rigoletto; cond. G. Dudamel,  9 and 10 November dir. L. Bondy LEVEL 42  7 BEETHOVEN, TCHAIKOVSKIJ; pf.  15 November D. Barenboim, Orchestra filarmonica JOHN SCOfIELD della Scala; cond. D. Harding  17 November  9 BEETHOVEN, MENDELSSOHN; TERENCE BLANCHARD Orchestra filarmonica della Scala;  21, 22, 23 and 24 November pf. and cond. A. Lonquich AL DI MEOLA  12 Recital - ten. R. Villazon and pf. Via Pietro Borsieri, 37. Map F1. G. Huber www.bluenotemilano.com

Run every day in Milan with our MILANO LOVES YOu friendly volunteer runners Enjoy the city, give happiness and give help raise funds for young cancer patients. www.runinmilan.com

10 WHERE MiLAN I NOVEMBER 2012 where now Milan

euroPeAn eXcLusiVe eVenT

sparkling contrasts capsule collection

An object of desire, since the very beginning, no item has inveigled it way into women’s psyche like shoes, not simply a mere accessory but a real indulgence that makes our hearts beat, empowering us and revealing either our most seductive side or our femininity and discretion. Given women’s love affair with shoes, Swarovski Elements gives life to the “Sparkling Contrasts” project, inviting 12 international designers (Alejandro Ingelmo, Casadei, Gio Diev, Jerome C. Rousseau, Maison des Talons, Neorhythm, René Caovilla, Repetto, Robert Clergerie, Rupert Sanderson, Ruthie Davis, ) to design their exclusive creations made with Swarovski Elements. The result is an absolutely unique and original capsule collection of 24 shoes, an extraordinary tribute to the fascinating world of footwear and its star players. from 13 November, and for the entire Christmas period, the collection – a European exclusive - will be on sale on the third floor of la Rinascente piazza Duomo, a “not-to-be-missed” opportunity to view these iconic creations close-up.

www.rinascente.it. Milano, piazza Duomo. Open daily. T: 02 88521. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4 www.swarovski-elements.com

12 WHERE MiLAN I NOVEMBER 2012 where now Milan » shoPPinG

Where to Buy 1. The stark elegance of grey interpreted in all of its various hues, from the imperceptible tones of pearl to the more vibrant nuances of iron and charcoal.

5. 1. tiffaNy & Co. silver earrings “return to tiffany” tiffany & Co. , 19/a t: 02 76022321 M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 www.tiffany.it

2. MiU MiU 2. open calf bauletto bag with removeable strap Miu Miu Via sant’andrea, 21 t: 02 76001799 M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 www.miumiu.com 3.

3. CaMPER leather calf-length boot “Veronique branquinho” Camper Via Montenapoleone, 6 t: 02 799015 M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 www.camper.com

4. ChaNEl new F/w make up line la Rinascente (ground floor) Piazza duomo t: 02 8852471 M1-M3 duomo. Map F4 www.chanel.com

5. alBERta fERREtti cashmere pinstripe suit and rhinestone-fringed top. alberta ferretti Philosophy Via Montenapoleone, 18 t: 02 76003095 M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 www.albertaferretti.com 4.

14 WHERE MiLAN I NOVEMBER 2012 where now Milan

TiPs froM friends Discovering Excelsior Milano

South African journalist, accessories are stirred in between sequined cocktail dresses and trendy knits by Helmut fashion blogger and Lang, Theory Alice + Olivia as well as Rage professional shopper, & Bone. I took the travelator up to the next umayya Theba gives us three floors conceived and set up by Antonia Giacinti, the soul of the Milan multibrand her take on a shopping boutique “Antonia”. Casual knits, winter jackets experience in Milan and T-shirts for men are plentiful while women are urged to indulge their femininity with smartwear from international labels Dries van When I was first told to out Excelsior Noten, Jose PH and even renowned luxury Milano, I had no idea what to expect. Branded brand, Givenchy. The best is reserved for last clothes? Sure. Designer shoes? Of course. But on the top level with sensational footwear and when a girl has limited time and more than bags by Valentino, Sergio Rossi, Christian a few gifts to bag before a return trip home, Louboutin, Jimmy Choo and Giuseppe she needs a concise shopping venue that zanotti Design. This selection of crème-de-la- caters a pleasant variety of possible purchases crème pieces guarantee that all pumps, boots - a little something for everybody without and sandals which spill out in spectacular style breaking the bank - all under one roof. With are to-die-for while a shop-in-shop area is a 14-hour flight scheduled, time was a luxury dedicated to Manolo Blahnik masterpieces. and at Excelsior Milano, my time was certainly The shop-in-shop concept is also trended by respected. Finding everything I needed Tiffany&Co. on the ground floor - the first of between the seven floors was a breeze and I its kind in Italy - while interesting tech goodies DE LUNA

was in and out, satisfied and perfectly paced and gadgets such as ring cursor controllers, © but also fascinated by the transformation phone stands and sound boosters will have of a former cinema complex into a futuristic grown men behaving like naughty boys. PHOTO shopping experience that seems to fuse fashion, food and design. Five ReASOnS WHY i WiLL ReTuRn TO exCeLSiOR MiLAnO Having only discovered Excelsior Milano now - one year after it opened in September 2011- 1. The De Bondt corner. I shamelessly admit to having spent my first bit of cash here and my I was flabbergasted that I, a regular visitor cocoa addiction will beg to be fed with more of their organic bite-sized chocolate treats filled to Milano fully aware of all the retail gems with tea or rolled in nuts. scattered around the city, could allow this one- 2. The Ladurée confectionary. I indulged in their almond and strawberry flavoured French stop-shop just off Corso Vittorio Emanuele macaroons and I will definitely need a future sugar fix in lemon too. to go undetected. Situated almost mid-way 3. Aveda hair and beauty products. My curly mane could certainly use a repeat treatment of along the path from the Quadrilatero della these special American products. The perfect balance between science and nature, these also Moda to the Duomo, I realized that Excelsior add to the sweet and sensual scents that fill the air in the beauty section. Milano seems to be an extension of Via Montenapoleone with a number of exclusive 4. Eat’s food Market. There’s fresh fish available while ready-to-eat gourmet salads and fresh brands not found on this luxury street. fruit packages make enticing accompaniments too. 5. Superb personal assistance. An aspect of this shopping experience that is truly unmatched The first floor is a hub of contemporary ladies is the consistently high standard of service and the individual attention I received from friendly, wear by a select group of American designers. conversational staff which left a lingering, pleasant aftertaste. Swatch watches, Borsalino hats and other

16 WHERE MiLAN I NOVEMBER 2012 where now Milan anD morE... ronchi new opening POLSOGEMELLO. Shirts and accessories www.polsogemello.com what’s New for all watch Lovers Via G. da Procida, 7 . T: 02 89604000. Map C2 Established in 1929, Ronchi has become a prestigious reference point for all watch lovers, combining a passion for high-end watchmaking with a love for refined jewellery. Watch ADER. Classic and casual men’s clothing www.ader.it in the City brands stocked include Rolex, Tudor , Jaeger-LeCoultre and Franck Muller. On 20 November, Viale Crispi, 7. T: 02 65560913. M2 Moscova. Map F2 the famed Milanese jewellers will re-open the doors of their landmark boutique in via Gonzaga 5, just moments away from the Duomo. The existing store in via Albricci will PLAYLIfE . Sportswear relocate to its new, even more luxurious premises where the ongoing search for fashion www.playlife.com trends and time-honoured classics will continue. Corso Vercelli, 6. T: 02 43319377. M1 Conciliazione. Map C4 www.ronchigioielli.com. Via Gonzaga, 5. T: 02 877449. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F5 TORRAS . Leather and knitwear apparel for men www.torras.com Via Manzoni, 40/42. T: 02 76014195. M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4

Just cavalli collections fABBRICA PELLETTERIE MILANO. Leather goods and accessories in the heart of milan herno warms the Quadrilatero www.fabbricapelletteriemilano.com The new Just Cavalli flagship store is dedicated to a young, Corso Matteotti, 9. M1 . Map G4 hip crowd in search of new worlds. Here the style-savvy will The Herno’s famed quilted jackets and outerwear are now available at its new flagship find men and women’s pret-a-porter collections, accessories, store in via della Spiga. Its uber-sophisticated men’s, women’s and children’s collections PISACCO. Restaurant and bar eyewear, costume jewellery, watches and lingerie. Its interior are housed within a truly evocative setting, embellished by a series of screens that run www.pisacco.it space has been skilfully designed to highlight different throughout the store, for a truly interactive, high-tech experience. Via Solferino, 48. T: 02 9176 5472. M2 Moscova. Map F3 themes and is inspired by urban, metropolitan lofts. Open Tues-Sat 10am-7pm, Mon 3pm-7pm. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm, Sun 11am-7pm. www.herno.it. Via della Spiga, 1. T: 02 94432789. M1 San Babila. Map G4 www.robertocavalli.com. Corso Matteotti, 18. T: 02 76280740. M1 San Babila. Map G4 Where tip SEE PAG 31 fOR THE NEW EXCLuSIVE tEmporary StorES CARTIER’S BOuTIquE IN VIA POMELLATO 67 Via Montenapoleone, 26 MONTENAPOLEONE. Jewellery M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 Until March 2013 www.pomellato.com CARHARTT Via Sant’Andrea, 17 Sportswear M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 Until 15 January 2013 www.carhartt.com DISCOVER THE COLLECTIONS

BMW MOTORRAD Via P. Paoli, 3/5 thestyleoutlets.com WITH DISCOUNTS Sportswear M2 FS. Map D7 FROM TO Until 15 February 2013 30% 70%. www.bmw-motorrad.it LILT-ITALIAN LEAGuE AGAINST la Rinascente, piazza Duomo CANCER (MILAN) M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4 Charity shopping, prevention activities From 22 to 29 November 2012 www.legatumori.mi.it uNIquENESS 50 32 0321 83 - Tel. Via Associazione di Well-dressed woman Via Forcella, 8 Until 11 November 2012 Open daily 11am-8pm www.uniqueness.it M2 Porta Genova FS. Map D6

new Byblos concept Byblos has opened a new, exclusive location in the heart of parco Cenisio: a spectacular oasis set against a highly evocative background where fashion, art, design and music come together to offer a new dimension that is both exciting and inspirational. An ethereal, cosmopolitan ambience blending a mix of pure sophistication and simplicity. Open Thurs-Sun 8.30pm-4am www.byblosmilano.com. Piazza Coriolano. 150 shops open 7 days a week, from 10 am to 8 pm. T: 338 8098326. Off Map 30 minutes from Milan and Malpensa Airport. MI-TO Exit Biandrate/Vicolungo

SHUTTLE BUS ROUND TRIP · MILAN > VICOLUNGO THE STYLE OUTLETS · FOR BOOKING WWW.ZANIVIAGGI.IT · INFOLINE +39 02867131

Where-Milan-mezza-Ott2012.indd 1 18/10/12 11:11 18 WHERE MiLAN I NOVEMBER 2012 www.wheretraveler.com 19

Shopping

Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a list ENJOY YOur ��% EXTRA-FREE SHOPPING of establishments recommended by the editors of Where Magazine and includes regular

where IN mONTENAPOlEONE: advertisers. The most popular luxury brands and designers stores are grouped under the ASK FOR PREmIER! the guide separate lisiting top brands, which can be found on pages 24-25.

Your Premier Refund+ Вы Премьер Воз Shopping mAp locAtions Возврат налога 退税 事後免税 Your Premier Refund+ Note that references in bold at the end of each 退税 事後免税 listing (A1, B5 etc) refer to the coordinates on 退税 Your Premier Refund+ 事後免税 the street maps on pages 62-63. by Возврат налога Возврат налога PREMIER © 事後免税 Your Premier Refund+ inFormAtion 退税 事後免税 Your Premier Refund+ Your Premier Refund+ Visitors should note that VAT is generally 21% Возврат налога 退税 Your Premier Refund+ Welcome Back Dior and it is generally included in the price of Following a complete makeover by Peter Marino, the goods. Before finalizing a purchase, overseas visitors from outside the EU should ask the women’s boutique of the historic Paris maison recently shop assistant whether they are eligible for Come to our VIP Lounge in Via monteNapoleone 21 re-opened in via Montenapoleone 12. Spread out over a tax refund. Shopping hours are generally from 9.30am to 7.30pm; less centrally located and ask for your MONTENAPOLEONE PREMIER CARD two floors, the boutique hosts clothing, accessories, shops still take the traditional lunch break from loaded with your Premier Tax Refund plus an additional 15% added as bonus! jewellery and high-class timepiece collections all set 12.30pm or 1pm to 3pm or 4pm. Most shops Use your prestigious card to keep enjoying your Extra-Free Shopping are closed on Sundays (except those located in 1234 1234 1234 1234 within an exclusive, sophisticated ambience, in perfect central Milan) and on Monday mornings. Make in the boutiques of monteNapoleone street! sure to always check ahead. Several unusual Texte xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx keeping with the brand’s creations. shops, stocking items and rarities for collectors xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx www.premiertaxfree.com/montenapoleone and aficionados in specific product categories, by

Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. PREMIER © are listed under passion shopping rather than in the standard Shopping sections. Avail of your unique extra-free shopping experience in the heart of the world’s most famous and luxurious fashion brands. 10am-8pm. www.fnac.it. Via Torino, 45. T: 02 869541. M1-M3 Duomo, M3 Missori. map F5 The MonteNapoleone Premier Lounge is open from Monday to Friday, www.dior.com lA Feltrinelli express—A brand new sales point from 10:30 to 19:00 and on Saturday from 13.00 to 19.00. Via Montenapoleone, 12 extending over 2500 sq.m. located inside the Our multi-lingual staff is at your complete disposal. T: 02 76317801 Stazione Centrale. Spread out over several floors, it M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 offers books, CDs, DVDs, multimedia items, stationery and the largest selection of paperbacks in the city in original language versions. On the ground floor, Clothing - Men & Women . Via Verri, corner of via Bigli. T: 02 76021502. M1 San For more detailed listings, please see cruciAni c—After Verona, Madrid and the jet-set materials such as porcelain, gold and precious stones, dedicated to travelers, you can find an international Babila. map g4 www.wheretraveler.com resorts of Capri, Taormina and Forte dei Marmi, exemplifying the brand's supreme craftsmanship. newsstand and a wide selection of guides and books AnimAl house—Contemporary menswear stocking Cruciani C has opened its 6th monobrand store This 300 year-old German luxury brand has recently on art and local history. The second floor is given a wide selection of international brands - Blauer, Fedeli—This flagship store, located in via in the heart of Milan. Located in the highly central refurbished Casa Carcassola-Grandi as the location over to infants and children while the third, boasting Blundstone Shoes, B.D. baggies, Ganesh, Hartford Montenapoleone since 1946, showcases men and via Manzoni, customers can now purchase the for its stunning European Flagship store. Open original frescoes from the Thirties, offers a selection of - at this store created as an offshoot of Host (see women casual clothes which blend tradition and Accessories highly sought-after bracelets that, for one year, have Mon-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm. www.meissen.it. Via 65 thousand books, CDs, DVDs and games. The top listing). Animal House is gradually becoming a new research to render each garment with a sense of embellished the wrists of trendsetters the world over, Montenapoleone, 3. T: 02 89423725. M1 San Babila. floor is used for presentations and events. Open Mon- destination address for men in the know. Open Mon elegance and sophistication. The company’s passion AngelA cAputi giuggiù—The brand is renowned elegant arm candy made from , screen printed map g4 Sun 7am-10pm. www.lafeltrinelli.it. Stazione Centrale. 3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7.30pm. Via A. Saffi, 7. T: 02 for top quality, elegant design and its devotion to throughout the world. Sophisticated, original PVC, soft, brightly coloured pashminas in cashmere, T: 02 6679031. M1-M3 Centrale. map g2 4694900. M1 Conciliazione, M1-M2 Cadorna. map d4 individual customer requirements makes it a symbol

creations made from unusual materials such as plastic silk and and footwear. Open Mon-Sat 10am- of pure, high-class “Made in Italy” fashion. English, and resin, combined to create unique objects both in 7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30pm. www.cruciani.net. Via Books & Magazines mondAdori multicenter—A chain of megastores Aspesi—Likes to define its style as “ basic, with a French, German and Spanish spoken. Open Mon terms of colour and shape. Her creations have been Manzoni, 19. T: 02 89093864. M3 Montenapoleone. scattered throughout the city, offering a wide twist”. The cult brand, created in 1990 by fashion 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. www.fedelicashmere. used as accessories by famous television and film map F4 AmericAn Bookstore—Situated just in front of assortment of books, CDs, DVDs, videogames, veteran Alberto Aspesi, features quirky, tailored com and www.fedelimontenapoleone.it.

producers. The accessory as a focal point, capable of the , for the past 30 years, this phones, electronics, IT, café, foreign newsstand and lines, elegant details and natural materials. His Via Montenapoleone, 8. T: 02 76023392. M3 creating a look or dressing up any type of garment. A —Contemporary luxury and a discreet, elegant popular bookstore has been a reference point for Internet Point. www.negozimondadori.it. Several current collections are still based on the original Montenapoleone. map g4 magical blend of contemporary and classical taste. A style. A wide assortment of exclusively “Made-in- English-speaking readers. Ancient books and prints locations in the city (piazza Duomo, corso Vittorio “no-frills” philosophy and will appeal to all those dream well worth the wearing. Open Tues-Sat 10am- Italy” items: bags, footwear, belts, luggage, costume department. A selection of original items from all over Emanuele II, via Marghera, via Berchet). Mon-Sun who like their outerwear without flashy labels. host—This elegant men’s shop was established as 1pm/2.30pm-7.30pm. www.angelacaputi.com. Via jewellery and jewellery. A perfect example of time- the world. Open Mon 1.30pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10.30am- 9am-11pm (Newsstand, Coffee Bakery and Fine Foods Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.aspesi.it. Via the male counterpart of the historic Pupi Solari Madonnina, 11. T: 02 86461080. M2 Lanza. map F4 honoured Italian artisan tradition. The chain has other 7pm. Largo corner of via M. Camperio. T: 02 from 7am). Piazza del Duomo, 1. T: 02 4544110. M1-M3 Montenapoleone, 13. T: 02 76022478. M1 San Babila, (see listing) women’s boutique. It not only carries stores in Milan. Open Mon-Sun 10am-7.30pm. www. 878920. M1 Cairoli. map e4 Duomo. map F4 M3 Montenapoleone. map g4 an assortment of traditional but also lesser known BorsAlino—Historic Italian company synonymous furla.it. , 22 corner of via Omboni. brands and is a favourite with Milanese men in the with “hats” the world over. Each piece is an T: 02 2043319. M1 Porta Venezia. map h3 FnAc—An internationally renowned French chain, it pAnton’s english Bookshop—Spread out cruciAni—Each item is made from only the know. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Sun 10am-7pm. Piazza N.

unrepeatable masterpiece, created with an artisan offers three floors featuring a vast range of products: over two floors, Panton’s offers a vast selection of finest originating from all over the world, Tommaseo, 2. T: 02 436085. M1 Conciliazione. map d4 touch, the result of in-depth research that harmonizes villA meissen®—Drawing thousands of visitors all books (also available in foreign languages) CDs, DVDs, books in English: narrative, history, children’s books, such as cashmere, silk, and or rarer, fabrics, materials and colours. Open Mon-Tues 10am- over the world each year, Meissen® has created a videogames, cell phones, MP3, IT, TV, Hi-Fi, cameras cookery, art etc.; but also books on antiques, travel even more exclusive materials such as vicuna lArusmiAni concept Boutique—An expression 2pm/3pm-7pm; Wed-Sun 10am-7pm. www.borsalino. unique life-style experience with home, fine art, and camcorders, a ticket service, photo printing, bar guides, maps and multi-media products. The or experimental blends. Cruciani offers young, of timeless style and a leitmotif of sophisticated it. Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, 92. T: 02 89015436. porcelain, accessories, and the most recent Meissen® and Internet Point. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-8pm; Sun magazine Where Milan is also distributed in this sophisticated collections based on the timeless, elegance located in the heart of Milan’s fashion M1-M3 Duomo. map g4 Joaillerie collection, combining a meld of exclusive store. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 9.30am- universal cannons of true Italian elegance. The small quad in the now completely renovated historic store 1pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. www.panton.it. Via L. Ariosto bracelets in macrame are the latest, global cult opened in 1954. A Concept Boutique extending corner of via L. Mascheroni, 12. T: 02 4694468. M1 phenomenon, an absolute “must-have”. Open Mon- over 700 sq.m. on three floors, it oozes simplicity Where covers more than 100 global travel destinations, from to San Francisco, LA to London, Miami to Milan and great places in between. Conciliazione. map d4 Sat 10am-7.30pm/Sun 11am-7.30pm. www.cruciani. and understated luxury, reflecting the subtlety of its

22 WHERE MILAN I NOVEMBER 2012 www.wheretraveler.com 23 14. T: 02 76318356. M1 San Babila, M3 Jil sAnder—www.jilsander.com. Open Mon-Sat (Woman). T: 02 7771771 / Via Montenapoleone, Montenapoleone. map g4 10am-7pm. Via P. Verri, 6. T: 02 7772991. M1 San 6 (Man). T: 02 76020273. M3 Montenapoleone. Babila, M3 Montenapoleone. map g4 map g4 • Via della Spiga, 18 corner of via ermenegildo ZegnA—www.zegna. Sant'Andrea, 23 (Woman Accessories). T: 02 com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm. Via JimmY choo—www.jimmychoo.com. Open 780465. M3 Montenapoleone. map g4 Montenapoleone, 27/E. T: 02 76006437. M3 Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Via Sant’Andrea, 1/A. T: 02 Montenapoleone. map F4 45481770. M1 San Babila. map g4 rAlph lAuren—www.ralphlauren.com. Open Top Brands Mon-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm. Via Montenapoleone, etro—www.etro.it. Open Mon-Sun 10am-7.30pm. kenZo—www.kenzo.com. Open Mon-Sat 9am- 4. T: 02 7788721. M1 San Babila. map g4 Via Montenapoleone, 5. T: 02 76005049. M1 San 7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Via A. Manzoni, 25. T: 02 Babila, M3 Montenapoleone. map g4 72080735. M3 Montenapoleone. map F4 roBerto cAvAlli— www.robertocavalli.com.

Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Via della Spiga, 42. FAY—www.fay.it. Open Mon-Sun 10.30am- —www.krizia.it. Open Mon 3pm-7.30pm; T: 02 76020900. M3 Montenapoleone. map 7.30pm. Via della Spiga, 15. T: 02 76017597. M1 Tue-Sat 10am-7.30pm. Via della Spiga, 23. T: 02 g4 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone. map g4 76008429. M3 Montenapoleone. map g3 rocco BArocco—www.roccobarocco.it. Open Fendi—www.fendi.com. Open Mon-Thurs les copAins—www.lescopains.it. Open Mon Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Via della Spiga, 31. T: 02 9.30am-9pm; Fri-Sat 9.30am-10pm. Via 3pm-7pm Tue-Sat 10am-7pm. Via A. Manzoni, 76000518. M3 Montenapoleone. map g4 Sant’Andrea, 16. T: 02 8852236. M1 San Babila. 21. T: 02 72080092. M3 Montenapoleone. map g4 map F4 sAlvAtore FerrAgAmo—www.ferragamo. com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am- FrAtelli rossetti—www.fratellirossetti. —www.loropiana.com. Open 7pm. (Woman) Via Montenapoleone, 3. T: 02 com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm; Sun 10am- Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm. Via Montenapoleone, 76000054. M1 San Babila. map g4 • (Man) Via 2pm, 3pm-7pm. Via Montenapoleone, 1. T: 02 27/c. T: 02 7772901. M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone, 20/4. T: 02 76006660. M1 San Montenapoleone. map F4 Babila. map F4 76021650. M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone. map g4 louis vuitton—www.louisvuitton.com. tod’s—www.tods.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am- giAnFrAnco FerrÈ—www.gianfrancoferre. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11.30am- 7.30pm; Sun 1-7pm. Via della Spiga, 22. T: 02 it. Open Mon-Sun 9am-6pm by appointment. 7.30pm. Via Montenapoleone, 2. T: 02 7771711. 76002423. M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone. Via Pontaccio, 21. T: 02 721341. M2 Lanza Brera- M1 San Babila. map g4 • Open Mon-Sat 10am- map g4 • Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. T: 02 7.30pm; Sun 10.30am-7.30pm. Galleria Vittorio 877997. M1-M3 Duomo. map F4 . map F3 Emanuele II. T: 02 72147011. M1-M3 Duomo. giorgio ArmAni—www.giorgioarmani.com. map g4 tom Ford—www.tomford.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Via P. Verri, 3. T: 02 Open Mon-Sun 10.30am-7.30pm. missoni—www.missoni.it. Open Mon-Sat 10am- 36529600. M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone. Via Montenapoleone, 2. T: 02 76003234. 7pm. Via Sant’Andrea corner of via Bagutta. map g4 M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone. map g4 • T: 02 76003555. M1 San Babila. map g4 One stop shop for Armani Lifestyle, from trussArdi—www.trussardi.it. Concept Store: food to home accessories. Via A. Manzoni. miu miu—www.miumiu.com. Open Mon-Sat Open Mon-Sat 10am-8.30pm. Piazza della map F4 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-9pm. Via Sant’Andrea, Scala, 5. T: 02 8068821. M1-M3 Duomo. map F4 21 - T: 02 76001799. M1 San Babila, M3 • Accessories: Open Mon-Sat 10am-8.30pm. Via gucci—www.gucci.com. Open Mon-Fri 10am- Montenapoleone. map g4 • Via Sant’Andrea, Sant’Andrea, 5. T: 02 8068821. M1 San Babila, 7pm; Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-7pm. Via 21 (Woman Accessories). T: 02 76001799. M1 M3 Montenapoleone. map g4 Montenapoleone, 5/7. T: 02 771271. M1 San San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone. map g4 vAlentino—www.valentino.com. Open Mon- Babila, M3 Montenapoleone. map g4 • Open • Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-10pm; Sun 10am-

© Tips Images Sat 10am-7pm. Via Montenapoleone, 20. T: 02 Mon-Fri 10am-7pm; Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10pm c/o La Rinascente, Piazza Duomo. T: 02 76006182. M3 Montenapoleone. map F4 10am-7pm. Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. 55028800. M1-M3 Duomo. map F4

T: 02 8597991. M1, M3 Duomo. map g4 versAce—www.versace.com. Open Mon-Sun AlBertA Ferretti philosophY— cesAre pAciotti—www.cesare-paciotti. moschino—www.moschino.it. Open Mon-Sat Milan is known as one of the 10am-7pm. Via Montenapoleone, 11. T: 02 www.albertaferretti.com. Open Mon-Sat com. Women: Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Via hermÈs—www.hermes.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm. Via Sant’Andrea, 12. T: 02 76000832. shopping capitals of the world. 10am-7pm. Via Montanapoleone, 18. Sant’Andrea, 8. T: 02 76001338. M1 San Babila, 10am-7pm. Via Sant’Andrea, 21. T: 02 76003495. 76008528. M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone. M3 Montenapoleone. map g4 • Open Mon-Sat map g4 Although high-end purchases T: 02 76003095. M3 Montenapoleone, M3 Montenapoleone. map g4 • Men: Open M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone. map g4 10am -7.30pm. Via della Spiga, 30. T: 02 76004320. M1 San Babila. map g4 Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Via Sant’Andrea, 8/A. T: 02 • Hermès Aeroporto di Milano-Aeroporto di M3 Montenapoleone. map g3 Yves sAint lAurent—www.ysl.com. Open can be made in any part of the 76001164. M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone. Aspesi—www.aspesi.it. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Malpensa Terminal 1. T:02 58581265. off map Mon-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm; Sun 11am- 7pm. Via city, several urban areas are also map g4 prAdA—www. prada.com. Open Mon-Sat Via Montenapoleone, 13. T: 02 76022478. Gesù,4. M3 Montenapoleone. map F4 hogAn—www.hoganworld.com. Open Mon- 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Corso Venezia, entirely given over to the business M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone. map g4 chAnel—www.chanel.com. Open Mon-Sat Sat 10am-7pm. Via Montenapoleone, 23. T: 02 3. T: 02 76001426. M1 San Babila. map g4 • Zilli—www.zilli.fr. Open Mon-Sat 10am- 10am-7pm. Via Sant’Andrea, 10/A. T: 02 782514- of luxury shopping. First and 76011174. M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone. Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, 63/65. T: 02 876979. 7pm. Via Gesù, 5. T: 02 49541950. M3 BAlenciAgA—www.balenciaga.com. Open Mon- 76016545. M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone. map F4 M1 Duomo. map g4 • Via Montenapoleone, 8 Montenapoleone. map g4 foremost, the quadrilatero della Sat 10am-7pm. Via Santo Spirito, 19. T: 02 760841. map g4 M3 Montenapoleone. map g4

moda, set amidst four of Milan’s church’s—www.church-footwear.com. Open most expensive and prestigious BlumArine—www.blumarine.com. Open Mon Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 2pm-7.30pm. 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. Via della Spiga, 42. shopping streets, namely via Via Sant’Andrea, 11. T: 02 76318794. M1 San SPOTLIGHT Precious Timepieces for Ladies T: 02 795081. M3 Montenapoleone. map g4 Babila. map g4 • Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; montenapoleone, via Manzoni, via BorsAlino—www.borsalino.com. Open Mon- Sun 10am-2pm, 3pm-7pm. Galleria Vittorio On the occasion of the celebrations marking the 80th anniversary della Spiga and corso Venezia. Tues 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm; Wed-Sun 10am-7pm. Emanuele II, 84. T: 02 72094454. M1-M3 of Reverso, Jaeger-lecoultre, the historic brand of high-class Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, 92. T: 02 89015436. Duomo. map g4 It is here that the most important M1 Duomo. map F4 watchmaking presented the new grande reverso lady ultra thin, fashion designers offer their dior—www.diorcouture.com. Open Mon- BottegA venetA—www.bottegaveneta.com. Sat 10am-7.30pm. Via Montenapoleone, 12. the female version of one of the rare true icons of luxury watchmaking. luxurious creations. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Via Montenapoleone, T: 02 76317801. map g4. M1 San Babila, M3 The new model expresses the very essence of the Reverso style, a Montenapoleone. Beyond the Quad itself, shoppers 5. T: 02 76024495. M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone. map g4 marriage of tradition and nobility, style and elegance. Furthermore, can visit other districts such dolce&gABBAnA—www.dolcegabbana.it. Men: open Mon-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm. Corso thanks to its generous dimensions, it pays tribute to its illustrious as the duomo-corso vittorio cArshoe—www.carshoe.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-2pm/3pm-7pm. Via della Venezia, 15. T: 02 76028485. M1 San Babila. map predecessor, the 1931 original, boasting ultra-flat proportions, goudron emanuele ii-galleria-via dante Spiga, 1. T: 02 76024027. M1 San Babila. map g4 g4 • Women: open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm. Via della Spiga, 26. T: 02 76001155. M1 San Babila. decoration, painstakingly crafted hardware, digits and minute and hour area, Brera and solferino, map g4 • Accessories: via della Spiga, 2. T: 02 cAsAdei Boutique— cl9000007322www.casadei.com. Via 795747. M1 San Babila. map g4 hands reflecting the multiple facets of contemporary women. with corso Garibaldi and corso Sant’Andrea, 1. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. T: 02 Via Montenapoleone, 1. T: 02 76281376. www.jaeger-lecoultre.com or the vercelli-Belfiore- 76318293. M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone. emilio pucci—www.emiliopucci.com. Open marghera districts. map g4 Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Via Montenapoleone,

24 WHERE MILAN I NOVEMBER 2012 www.wheretraveler.com 25 VALENTINO Shopping with Montenapoleone Card Long red coat in heavy cavalry Valentino Via Montenapoleone, 20 RALPH LAUREN T: 02 76006182 "Weekender" in leather www.valentino.com with covered lock, sergio rossi, Purple Label exclusive Italian Ralph Lauren footwear for ladies Via Montenapoleone, 4 T: 02 7788721 www.ralphlauren.com Born in 1950, the son of a shoemaker, Sergio Rossi learnt the tricks of the trade from a tender age and mastered his art to such a high degree that his talents became sought after by top Italian designer labels. Now headed up by Francesco Russo, the brand continues to produce couture footwear and handbags that has women around the world swooning with delight. Each exquisite pair seems to have its own well-deserved spotlight on the V. Palestro shelf and stepping in-store will have you behaving like a kid inVia aFatebenefratelli candy store: it's impossible to ignore, for V. Palestro example, the bold leopard spots of Sergio Rossi's “Milady” pump in printed

, the “Uptown” pump in metallic V.del Vecchio Politecnico watersnake with 10cm heels, the he capital of Italian fashion, Via dell’Annunciata A46660 BARBARO SKOTTISH the “Quadrilatero” and via brown crocodile “Cachet” version with Viva bag with stud detail pencil-thin heels and thick platforms Montenapoleone are Milan’s most T or the “ChiChi” pump in blue suede. 24 famed and fabled shopping districts. Each year, thousands of tourists flock here to discover the latest trends and to indulge in some of the world’s most Sergio Rossi exclusive shopping, now made even Via Borgonuovo Via Montenapoleone, 27 more advantageous thanks to the T: 02 76006140 GUCCI “Montenapoleone Card” – an initiative www.sergiorossi.com High heel open toe bootie launched by Premier Tax Free, a company in black leather specializing in tax free shopping services Gucci available in 26 countries worldwide. Via Montenapoleone, 5/7 “This Card”, explains Sara Bernabè, general Via della Spiga T: 02 77127 manager of Premier Tax Free, “is a unique How to obtain www.gucci.com initiative, launched in collaboration with the Montenapoleone Card V. San Primo Associazione della Via MonteNapoleone, Via A. Manzoni Via Borgospesso 1) Make a purchase in any Italian LARUSMIANI which not only allows non-EU citizens Via Montenapoleone storeA43842 affiliated GOdIVA with Premier Tax F/W 2012-2013 collection to obtain a VAT refund downtown on OrangeFree python pump total look their purchases but also an additional 15% V. Monte di Pietà 2) When paying at the cash desk, Larusmiani bonus on the refund itself: an amount Also available in nude python and black leather Your Premier Refund+ Вы Премьер Воз

Возврат налога 退税 事後免税 Via Santo Spirito ask for a Premier Tax Free invoice Your Premier Refund+ 退税 事後免税

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Возврат налога 退税 事後免税 Intrecciato nappa Your Premier Refund+ Your Premier Refund+ 退税 事後免税 退税 事後免税 退税 Your Premier Refund+ 事後免税 by Seurat 018596/0416 shoes Возврат налога Возврат налога initiative PREMIER © 事後免税 Your Premier Refund+ Via Montenapoleone 退税 事後免税 Your Premier Refund+ Your Premier Refund+ Возврат налога 退税 Your Premier Refund+ Larusmiani to accept our card as it really boosts maxi Veneta Scarf various 退税 sales and gives them an advantage over Via Bagutta Your Premier Refund+ Your Premier Refund+ Вы Премьер Воз  Bottega Veneta 1234 1234Возврат 1234 1234 налога 退税 事後免税 Your Premier Refund+ 事後免税 退税 事後免税

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26 WHERE MILAN I NOVEMBER 2012 www.wheretraveler.com 27

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PREMIER © Cimitero Monumentale A B C D E F G H

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Luxury shoppingp Castello V. Q. Sella . V. Ponte Vetero S a Ex Monte V. San Primo Momodesign’s collections. The style is the value S. Pietro e Sforzesco n V. Borgospesso V. Melone di Pietà V r o . M Celestino b u Luxury Personal Shopping o V. Santo Spirito V. Gesù e added of each creation, which always manages B l n l Pietà te Museo Bagatti o o i Duomo district e d n n to anticipate market trends, include men and r ont V. Maffei by GoldBlack Style . M V a Valsecchi i o V . p F B o women’s timepiece lines: helmets, watches, ig le P.za V l o . i n Castello G e V. dell’Orso S. Giuseppe Museo shoes, apparel and leather goods and, last but . i GoldBlack Style is a leading company specializing 3 V ar di Storia 3 not least, cover for Iphones, Ipods and mp3s. e deg Museo r An Contemporanea Palazzo l L ito d V. rt V. Cusani de a o i Poldi Serbelloni a in the offer of upmarket services targeted at an Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Fri 10am- V. uro B V. Sant’Andrea z Pezzoli V. San Damiano o P A. V Museo Civico M .za C . . M V. 2.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm; Sat 10am-7.30pm. astello V or di Milano exclusive clientele. GoldBlack Style’s mission is to Fondazione L.go o V. Alessandro Manzoni n www.momodesign.com. Galleria San Babila, 4/A. V. ia Matalon - Museo - Cairoli Casa e V. Bagutta z Palazzo V. Rovello e offer you unique, personalized, luxury experiences, Galleria d’Arte B P.tta M. n Fontana- T: 02 76016168. M1 San Babila. map g4 r Manzoni e S. Tomaso o Bossi Teatro V Silvestri l e Stazione L.go Maria Palazzo o Prefetturaenabling you to discover everything that Milan tt V. Filodrammaticialla Scala Callas Belgioioso rs Cadorna o Cairoli o Teatro San (Palazzo V. dei Bossi Fo C Isimbardi)and its outlying areas have to offer in terms of rosso preZioso—Just a few steps from via ro Buonaparte Teatro dei Casa degli P.za V. P. Verri Babila Teatro Leonardo Belgioioso Brera, this small concept store is perfect for V. M. Camperio Filodrammatici Omenoni Corso Matteotti S. Babila Dal Verme V. San Tomaso P.za V. S. Pietro all’Orte Corso Monforte fashion, food and culture. GoldBlack Style packages V. G. Puccini L.go P.za S. intellectual-chic shopping featuring the best of a V. Dante P.za della Meda Corso Monforte z V. Conservatorio z V. Clerici Scala Mattioli V. San Paolo Babila are tailored to suit individual requirements and Made-in-Italy. Under the creative directorship of 4 le Palazzo V. San 4 r Carmagnola Dalmazio Pal. Marino V. L. Illica o Cristina Bacchetti, it offers original collections

P Municipio S. Fedele S. Carlo Teatro

V. Rovello TeatroV. include services such as make-up and hairstyling Palazzo . V Galleria P.za al Corso Nuovo Galleria Grassi V. Hoepli of high-fashion costume jewellery featuring an Litta V. San V. Santa Margherita V. Porrone Galleria S. Babila Vittorio S. Fedele S. Babila V. Foscolo directly in your room, 24 hours a day. Furthermore,

Prospero V . del Toro ni elegant, innovative design. Creative themes, V. S. PellicoV. Emanuele II V. San Raffaele A Gobbi 1842 ag Teatro Litta V. San Giovanni sul Muro V g Galleria asc ● . n L.go A. Cerva V. . M P.za S.S. PettinaroliRa Odeon e . P GoldBlack Style also offers you luxury tours, not materials and colours are updated regularly in V. Meravigli Longobardi V d ll Toscanini i C GobbiPietro e Lino 1842 e o t Galleria t ors a g V. Borgogna accordance with the latest trends. In addition ent V. S.M. Segreta o g e Ma V. S. M. Porta Galleria V. T. Grossi o Passarella only of a cultural nature but also dedicated to n P.za del II h Cenacolo Vinciano Borsa Meravigli d le II c to costume jewellery, it also stocks a delightful P.za a Liberty ue Skorpion Club n

S. Maria della Grazie Founded in 1842, Gobbi is a reference V. Mercanti an Palazzo o wine and food tastings (cruises on luxury yachts; Cordusio Em R selection of fashion accessories and clothing.

V. Negri Pal. dei orio Galleria Durini . e Museo point for refined jewellery and precious tt V n Vi Galleria del Corso S. Vito Strasburgo o visits to caviar manufacturers and renowned wine Open Mon 1pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. Archeologico P.za degli Poste Giureconsulti rso r Cordusio Co d timepieces,V. S. M. such FulcorinaAffari as Rolex, PatekCentrali Philippe, Palazzo della Duomo o V. Passione www.rossoprezioso.com. Via San Fermo, 1. V. B. Luini Galleria estates). The services offered by GoldBlack Style are Ascensore M 5 V Passaggio Ragione i 5

V. Brisa V. Pattari V. Armorari

Tudor and. Baume & Mercier. You’ll get the P.za Corso Europa i d T: 02 654841. M2 Moscova-M3 P.za i B Centrale n i Edison P.za i t n o r highly exclusive, in a bid to offer you unforgettable samea fine assistance that the Gobbi family Mercanti n r Duomo Turati. map F3 r Beccaria u le o r P.za del a c o o D Passaggio v ia s V. Chiossetto Manuela Faganelli and Elisa V. Moneta V.Pattari . i G m Duomo r z has been providing its clients forV. theBocchetto last V. OreficiDuomo Duomo V. Cavallotti V e r V moments. GoldBlack Style does not sell services, it V. Vigna . P.za Vigili a V e C to Bongiascia, President and i . P.za Fontana Urbani M r V six generations. TheS. upper-floorMaria laboratory V . e makes dreams come true. For all related information, . V b Vice-President of GoldBlackStyle.

M Podone Pio XI V. SpadariV. Hugo U

provides quick,P.za top quality, watch repair Museo Museo L.go dei L.go . Home Décor & Fabrics

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r V. Mazzini V. V. Dogana www.goldblackstyle.com villA meissen®—Drawing thousands of visitors Palazzo P V. Verziere a sola OFFICIAL RETAILER a V. Cesare Battisti r M Reale l t’ O Pinacoteca S. a V. delle Ore S. Pietro all over the world each year, Meissen® has n a L.go L. J. z S. Bernardino Sa Corso Vittorio t z V. P.za S. M. in Gessate Ambrosiana o n Borges V. Giardino in Corte alle Ossa created a unique life-style experience with a V. Rastrelli V. San Bergamini Emanuele II, 15 S Beltrade R V. dell’Unione Respighi V. 6 . S. Sebastiano P.za e 6 S. Maria a V. San Bernardino home, fine art, porcelain, accessories, and the V T: 02 76020536 presso l Diaz e P.za a V r Corso di . S. Satiro S. Stefano o pupi solAri—In 1969, Pupi Solari, a woman of exquisite historic Maranello headquarters sells over three most recent Meissen® Joaillerie collection. This L n P.za u Galleria Basilica di ig p S Biblioteca Comunale taste, opened this children’s shop which now also thousand types of Ferrari merchandise including 300 year-old German luxury brand has recently Mentana e Torino Copyright Compass Maps Ltd. (UK). © 2012. All rights reserved. Whilst every care has been taken to check the accuracy of the information in this guide, the publishers in this guide, every check the accuracyWhilst has been taken to of the information care (UK). Maps Ltd. rights Compass reserved. © 2012. All Copyright without the permission of the No part be reproduced of this map and guide may thereof. or omissions the consequences errors for responsibility cannot accept CM Cartographics. by and produced designed map is originally This publishers. t Galleria Santo Stefano Centrale (Palazzo

t a V

V. Palla Mazzini . Maggiore a offers an eye-catching collection of women’s clothing. clothing, leather goods, high-class accessories, refurbished Casa Carcassola-Grandi as the l Sormani-Andreani) V. Larga L l Galleria a e dell’Unione Teatro g . d The shop is connected to the men’s boutique Host toys and models. From a minimum of 3.5 euros location for its stunning European Flagship store. V. Mazzini V. V. Gonzaga h V Lirico e Palazzo V. P. Cannobio t t (see listings). They also have an outlet right next for a logoed writing pad up to 42 thousand for The location hosts the new Home Meissen® V. Torino di V. Manara LEGEND P.za S. Antonio o V. Guastalla sumptuous apparel. The perfect place to build your —An Italian fashion house known for its sought-after details that combine the style of haute Giustizia door to the shop. Open Mon 3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat a Formula 1 engine. A visit to this futuristic, five- Collectibles – a collection of elegant pieces V. Piatti S. Alessandro Missori V. Albricci Abate

Information wardrobe with Theatreexclusive pieces. Larusmiani takes V.ready-to-wear ZebediaV. Mauri clothing. Established in 1951, since its couture with superior-qualityo materials that have made V. Zaccaria 10am-7.30pm. Via L. Mascheroni, 12. T: 02 463325. M1 storey, location, expressing the explosive soul of carefully designed and matched in style and n V. Andreani Palazzo o V. ChiaravalleV. Sant’Antonio Place of Interestluxury retail to aArcade new level. Open Mon-Sat 10am- inception, Max Mara has always offered clean-cut, Moncler a leadingrd name in winterV. outerwear.Francesco Sforza Open Conciliazione. map d4 car racing, is definitely a worthwhile experience. color for interior high level. Sofas, chairs, tables, Trivulzio Missori e V. Freguglia 7 P Giardino 7 7.30pm; Sun 10.30am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7pm. www. beautifully tailored Corsolines. di Although it has numerousV. Pantano Mon-Sat 10am-7pm;l Sun 11am-1pm/3pm-7pm. www. e Sinagoga Open Sun-Fri, 10am-8pm; Sat 10am-9pm. lamps, tableware as well as the luxurious fabrics, Palace Monument d della Guastalla larusmiani.it. Via Montenapoleone, 7. T: 02 76006957. M1 sales points scattered throughout Milan,Torre Italy and the moncler.com.a Via della Spiga, 7. T: 02 76025913. M1 San store.ferrari.com. Piazza Liberty, 8. T: 02 76017385. linings and accessories create a journey through st Università V. VelascaVelasca e V. Fieno F degli Studi V. Pedestrian AreaSan Babila. mapRailway g4 Station rest of the world, it is not a chain store but rather a Babila.. map g4 Daverio Concept Stores M1-M3 Duomo. map F4 the modern era classic from the ’40s to the ’70s. Teatro V di Milano V. San Barnaba Olmetto real designer label. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm. www.meissen. Museum Metro Palazzo Palazzo L.go (Ca’ Granda) V. San Barnaba S. S. Barnaba S. Maria m missoni—A 1970s spirit is the inspiration behindArchinto the 10.30am-7.30pm.Corso Italia www.maxmara.com.Annoni Corso Vittorio F. RichinipiAcenZA 1733— This high quality Italian brand is the e Paolo dellaFerr PaceAri store milAno—Dedicated to Ferrari momodesign—“Made-in-Italy” creativity, it. Via Montenapoleone, 3. T: 02 89423725. M1 San A new concept for M Missoni’sB new monobrand store. C Emanuele II. T: 02 76008849.D M1-M3 Duomo, M1 San E reign of cashmere for menF and women’s clothing andG H devotees,6593RA this authorized sales point of the style and design are the hallmark features of Babila. map g4 Copyright Compass Maps Ltd. (UK). © 2003. Revised 2008. All rights reserved. Whilst every care has been taken to check the accuracy of the information in this guide, the publishers cannot accept responsibility for errors or omissions or the consequences thereof. No part of this map and guide may be reproduced without the permission of the publishers. This map is originally designed and produced by CM Cartographics. The new space is distinguished by its minimalist style, Babila. map g4 has recently inaugurated a new exclusive tailoring innate elegance and pastel shades, in keeping with the service in its first flagship store. Customers can book an women’s prêt-a-porter collections on show featuring moncler—Boutique and home to the famous “puffer” appointment with a tailor for the creation of “made-to- daring colours, unusual working techniques, patterns jackets which, in addition to the lines of its main measure” jackets and suits. All fabrics carry the Piacenza and sought-after materials. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am- sportswear collection, also carries the Gamme Bleu Cashmere signature. Open Mon 3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat SPOTLIGHT Mordillo Time! 7.30pm. www.m-missoni.com. Corso Venezia, 2. T: 02 for men and the Gamme Rouge for women, an ultra- 10am-7.30pm. www.piacenza1733.it. Via Manzoni, 21. T: From 24 November 2012 to 20 January 2013, vicolungo the style 36510974. M1 Porta Venezia. map g4 sophisticated line featuring noble fabrics and highly 02 72023084. M3 Montenapoleone. map F4 outlets will host the exhibition “Riluce. Esercizi di arte luminosa”, an open-air exhibition dedicated to the famous cartoonist guillermo PETTINAROLI mordillo. Following the enormous success of the first edition featuring Founded in 1881 and now run by the fourth generation, it is works by Guido Crepax, this exhibit will highlight the works of the considered one of the oldest venues in the city. Since its inception, the shop has been a reference point for style and elegance in Argentinean artist, revisited for the occasion in the form of luminous writing paper, business cards, printed documents, desk items installations. Mordillo’s brightly coloured will animate the and photo albums in beautifully handcrafted leather according to time-honoured Italian tradition. The basement floor houses a centres’ open-air spaces in a never-seen-before display of his works. vast assortment of prints and antique maps. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; The underlying theme of “Mordillo Time” revolves around the world Tues-Sat 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm. M1-M3 Duomo. map F4 of stationery supplies featuring the items and accessories that, www.fpettinaroli.it • www.pettinarolimapsandprints.com for more than 40 years, have brought his drawings to the desks of piazza san Fedele, 2 (entrance from via t. marino) schoolchildren and the homes of families throughout the world. t: 02 86464642-1875 IPad case in hammered leather more info: www.wheremilan.com www.thestyleoutlets.com

28 WHERE MILAN I NOVEMBER 2012 www.wheretraveler.com 29 Shopping Cartier Lights up the Quadrilatero

a “, lace or honeycomb” effect. Also known for jewelry collections, which are admired throughout Mirroring luxury and elegance, Jewellery & Watches its silver and extraordinary animal collections. Open the world for their jewelry to be realized by master the 4 exclusive floors of the newly Mon-Sat 10.30am-1pm/2pm-7pm. www.buccellati. goldsmiths in full accordance with the best Italian revamped cartier boutique is AngelA cAputi giuggiù—The brand is renowned com. Via Montenapoleone, 23. T: 02 76002153. M3 tradition. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.damiani. bound to win over the eyes and hearts throughout the world. Sophisticated, original Montenapoleone. map F4 it. Via Montenapoleone, 10. T: 02 76028088. M3 of visitors. In fact, following a long creations made from unusual materials such as plastic Montenapoleone. map g4 restyling operation, the historic maison and resin, combined to create unique objects both in BulgAri—Among the most noteworthy names in of high-class jewellery has reopened terms of colour and shape. Her creations have been the world together with Cartier and Tiffany, since the de WAn—An elegant, sophisticated space and an the doors of its flagship store in via used as accessories by famous television and film very beginning, Bulgari has been a reference point ideal venue for this historic brand whose offer ranges montenapoleone. “Milano deserved a producers. The accessory as a focal point, capable of for luxury jewellery. It also carries watches, fragrances, from costume jewellery and highly sought-after store of this calibre – explains Bernard creating a look or dressing up any type of garment. A accessories and small table items. Its most famous accessories to leather bags and collections. Fornas, President and CEO of Cartier magical blend of contemporary and classical taste. A collection is the “Bzero1”, originally crafted in gold Closed Sun and Mon morning. Open Mon 3.30pm- International – because it is the capital dream well worth the wearing. Open Tues-Sun 10am- and subsequently embellished with diamonds and 7.30pm, Tues-Sat 10am-1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. of Italian fashion and it is just what was 1pm/2.30pm-7.30pm. www.angelacaputi.com. Via precious stones. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www. www.dewan.it. Via Manzoni, 44. T: 02 76003018. M3 needed to reflect the strength of the Madonnina, 11. T: 02 86461080. M2 Lanza. map F4 bulgari.com. Via Montenapoleone, 2. T: 02 777001. M1 Montenapoleone. map F3 San Babila. map g4 brand – a combination of tradition

Breguet—This historic brand, synonymous with dodo—The gold Dodo jewellery line, created in 1995 and contemporary taste, elegance excellence and technological innovation, shares its cArtier—In addition to its jewellery, Cartier is also by Pomellato, is by now a classic either for gift or and status”. exclusive Milanese venue with lovers of the creations famous as a luxury maker of watches, second only collection purposes. It sells an array of animal charm of high-class horologerie, by presenting an extensive in the world to Rolex. Renowned for its design and pieces, each of which has a particular meaning. The The old palace in which it is housed, collection of unique timepieces and jewellery. A technology, Cartier’s steel watches are embellished new Flagship Store, designed by world-renowned now serves as an even more sought- scenographic staircase with marble walls leads to the with details in gold, platinum and diamonds. Open Paola Navone, is characterized by the brand’s after, exclusive backdrop to display all second floor where, in addition to its display cases, Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.cartier.it. Via Sant’Andrea, signature colours and themes. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; of its precious collections, including visitors are invited to discover everything that they’ve 11 (Temporary Boutique). T: 02 3030421. M3 Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. www.dodo.it. Corso Matteotti, 9. jewellery, accessories and leather ever wanted to know about Breguet’s workshops at Montenapoleone. map g4 T: 02 49524750. M1 San Babila. map g4 goods. “Although we looked at a the store’s virtual room which offers the screening of number of spaces, none of them could interactive, thematic films. Open Mon-Sun10am-7pm. dAmiAni—Master craftsmen since 1924, Damiani has FArAone—Having undergone a complete makeover, compare with the historic building in www.breguet.com. Via Montenapoleone, 19. T: 02 a long goldsmithing tradition which it has always this historic maison of highclass jewellery interprets which we have been headquartered 76007756. M3 Montenapoleone. map F4 interpreted with the innovative spirit. Line purity, a Italy’s famous tradition of goldsmithery according for the past 30 years.” refined, elegant classic as well as contemporary spirit, to an innovative, sophisticated and exclusive BuccellAti—Heir to a tradition that dates back to the are the distinctive values of the Damiani jewelry vision. A real jeweller’s showroom, a “never-seen- The old 19th century building 18th century and a favourite with the royal families of reproposed in a flagship store designed by Antonio before” and contemporary concept of high-class encompasses 4 floors and was restyled Europe, Buccellati offers stunning designs featuring Citterio. A well-lighted space displays all the Maison’s jewellery that though boasting a new style and soul nevertheless retains its time-honoured heritage by architect Bruno moinard, who and personality. Faraone offers two exclusive lines, designed all the boutiques of the a pret-a-porter line "I Composable" and a haute brand. Its furnishings and interior décor couture line "One of a Kind", both featuring an infinite reflect the cultural, historical and artistic SPOTLIGHT number of combinations, shapes and colours. aspects of Milan’s cultural heritage and Open Mon-Fri 10am-7pm. www.faraonegioielli. Cartier tradition, a sort of theatre of art it. Via Montenapoleone, 9. T: 02 76319153. M3 reflecting typical Italian hospitality – a Montenapoleone. map g4 combination of opulence and luxury, All the Best splendour and minimalism. Designer Brands gAgà milAno—The coloured world of Gagà watches Bag bargains and stock up on debuts for the first time in Italy. After Tokyo, Osaka and Hawaii, Gagà has opened its first monobrand the best Italian and international store in Milan’s Corso Venezia. Boasting chic, warm, elegant, minimalist style décor, its interior has been fashion brands, all discounted designed to offset the brand’s extravagant soul, a at 30 to 70% less, at serravalle meld of retro fashion and contemporary taste. www. gagamilano.com. Corso Venezia, 8. T: 02 36750377. M1 designer outlet, Europe’s San Babila. Map G4 largest shopping mall located in gioielli BY Ferro—This small, stylish jewellers, Serravalle Scrivia (AL). In addition located in the heart of Brera, is a place where to the boutiques of Alberta jewellery lovers can make their dreams come true. Here, they can purchase modern, period or design Ferretti, Blumarine, Brioni, Brooks pieces, without a backward look, on account of Brothers, Bruno Magli, Bulgari the fact that each item sold carries certification by gemologists registered with IGI (Italian Gemological Company Store, Canali, Cerruti, Calvin Klein, Damiani, Diesel, Institute). The feather-in-the-cap of this boutique is its "Private Collection" of Gioielli by Ferro, consisting Dolce & Gabbana, Etro, Ferré, Furla, Guess, Hugo Boss, La of unique pieces, conceived around individual gems Perla, Lacoste, Les Copains, , Prada, Roberto Cavalli, stemming from the creative genius of designer Ferruccio Invernizzi. Open Mon 1pm-7pm; Tues-Sat Salvatore Ferragamo and Versace, 2011 also saw the opening 10am-1pm/2.30pm-7pm. www.gioiellibyferro. of Desigual, Tommy Hilfiger and Burberry. Open everyday, it. Via Monte di Pietà 1/A. T: 02 87071718. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4 Cartier 10am-8pm. The outlet can be accessed by car, train or the Via Montenapoleone, 16/A convenient shuttle service that runs daily from Milan goBBi 1842—Founded in 1842, Gobbi is a corner of via Gesù reference point for refined jewellery and precious T: 02 3030421 (www.zaniviaggi.it – T: 02 867131). www.mcarthurglen.it or timepieces, such as Patek Philippe, Rolex, Tudor www.cartier.com facebook.com/ SerravalleDesignerOutlet and Baume&Mercier. You will get the same fine assistance that the Gobbi family has been providing

30 WHERE MILAN I NOVEMBER 2012 www.wheretraveler.com 31 Shopping ? Shopping Foxtown ?

mario camerini Vicolungo © The Style Outlet ? Outlets Fidenza Village ? Serravalle & Factory Designer Outlet Stores

Milan is surrounded by a belt of Outlets and Factory Stores. Real FArAone see page 30. pilgiÒ see page 33. giÒsA milAno see pages 38 and 39. shopping villages offering top Italian and international designer brands at prices discounted from 30 to 70%. its clients for the last six generations. The upper-floor thanks to its unparalleled originality and expressive technique “Oro Muto” (Mute Gold). Open: Mon-Sat laboratory provides quick, top quality, watch repair energy. Unique jewels in which a number of the most 10am-7.30pm. www.pilgio.com. Via Caminadella, 6. T. and maintenance service. Open Tues-Sat 10am- common materials such as iron, steel and stones are 02 804812. M2 Sant’Ambrogio. map e5 1.30pm/2.30pm-7pm. Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 15. T: paired with gold and copper-plated silver to give life to FIDENZA VILLAGE - Fidenza Village is part of the collection SERRAVALLE DESIGNER OUTLET - One of the first 02 76020536. M1 San Babila. map g4 beautifully crafted pieces of emblematic jewellery. The pisA orologeriA—A watch lover’s paradise for signature feature of the brand is its unusual working over 60 years. Prestigious timepieces with particular of nine “Chic Outlet Shopping” villages in Europe. A real outlet villages in Europe, Serravalle Scrivia is located in the JAeger-lecoultre Boutique—Ideally located shopping village, offering a fabulous array of designer clothing province of Alessandria. Designed as a typical medieval in the heart of Milan’s “Golden Fashion Triangle”, and homeware. Ligurian town, it combines all the appeal of luxury designer Jaeger-LeCoultre opened its first Italian boutique in brands with the beauties of the surrounding Piedmont keeping with the spirit of invention and creativity SPOTLIGHT • WHERE: halfway between Milan and . Take the A1 countryside and the Liguria Riviera. which has set this reference brand of Haute Horlogerie apart in the field of watchmaking since autostrada and exit at Fidenza/Salsomaggiore Terme. Daily Start Your Christmas Shopping McArthurGlen boasts also “Barberino” near Florence, “Castel 1833. Featuring an elegant, low-key interior, this “Shopping Express” shuttle bus also available (departs at 10am Romano” near Rome, “La Reggia” in Marcianise near , and exclusive space harmoniously blends the best of at Fidenza Village from piazza Castello 1, M1Cairoli). “Veneto” at Noventa di Piave near . design and contemporary materials with an Art Déco style, a period in which the Swiss watchmakers November will mark the onset of loads • WHAT: 100 boutiques featuring prestigious designer labels at • WHERE: take the A7 Milano-Genova autostrada and exit created the legendary Reverso. Open Mon 3pm- of initiatives for the Christmas shopping 7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. www.jaeger-lecoultre. reduced prices, including Valentino, Paul Smith, Missoni and at Serravalle Scrivia. The outlet can also be accessed by a com. Via Montenapoleone, 1. T: 02 76281376. M3 season at Fidenza Village Chic Outlet Michael Kors. convenient daily shuttle service (departs at 10am from Foro Montenapoleone. map g4 Shopping® including the relaunch of “A Bonaparte 76, M1 Cairoli-M2 Lanza) (www.zaniviaggi.it) • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: thanks to its position, in addition to lingottino—Just a short distance from via Torino new home for convivio at Fidenza shopping, Fidenza Village offers a number of other attractions. • WHAT: 180 exclusive designer brand stores, elegance, and corso Magenta, Lingottino offers beautiful handcrafted pieces. Unique items, ranging from tiny village”, a charity shopping programme A great opportunity to learn more about Parma and Terme affordable prices and high quality for all pockets. earrings to diamond chokers. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; in support of research against AIDS. Etro, Verdiane, one of Italy’s primary artistic and cultural hubs. Several events in November. Tues-Sun 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm. www.lingottino.it. Via For more information visit: www.fidenzavillage.com To discover your favourite designer brands visit: Santa Marta, 10. T: 02 72022203. M1 Cordusio. map e5 Roberto Cavalli, Lanvin, Dior, Balenciaga www.mcarthurglen.it and Prada are just some of the prestigious FOXTOWN - An outlet store on the Swiss border, FoxTown locmAn—Original, innovative, trendy watches, distinguished by high-quality artisan finishes. A real brands that will be hosted at the pop-up uses the popular US-style “Factory Stores” formula: practically VICOLUNGO THE STYLE OUTLETS - Situated just thirty atelier where high-tech and tradition meld to create boutique which will remain open until all the best designer labels, accessories and not only, at factory minutes from Milan, in the province of Novara, the Vicolungo an atmosphere of extreme elegance. Locman is prices. Outlet is the ideal place to spend an exciting day’s shopping. currently one of the most important names in Italian mid-January. watchmaking. Open Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. www. • WHERE: just 15 km from Lugano and 30 km from Milan. Take • WHERE: take the A4 Milano-Torino autostrada and exit at locman.it. Via Gonzaga, 5. T: 02 36512893. M3 Missori. November will also see a display of the map F5 the Milano-Lugano autostrada and exit at Mendrisio. The outlet Biandrate Vicolungo. Shuttle service available on Fri-Sat- iconic Art decò boxes, designed by can also be accessed by a daily shuttle service (departs at 2pm Sun-Mon (departs at 10.30am from Foro Bonaparte 76, M1 luigi vergA—A large selection of some of the most from Foro Bonaparte 76, M1 Cairoli-M2 Lanza) Cairoli-M2 Lanza) (www.zaniviaggi.it) desirable watch brands available on the market, students from Milan’s IED/Istituto Europeo (www.zaniviaggi.it) including Rolex, Patek Philippe, Cartier, IWC, Jaeger- di Design, which will animate the spaces • WHAT: 150 prestigious designer stores offering clothing LeCoultre, Tudor. Luigi Verga also prides itself on its after-sales service and boasts an on-premises UNI EN at the Village. Visitors will have a chance to vote for the best • WHAT: 160 exclusive stores, more than 250 top brands (such for the whole family, homeware and beauty products at ISO 9001: EDITION 2008 certified repair workshop. installation and win an exclusive gift voucher worth 500 euros. as Gucci, Prada, Armani, Dolce&Gabbana, Dior, Polo Ralph discounted prices of up to 70%. Open Tues-Sat 10am-1.30pm/3pm-7pm. Lauren, Lacoste, Burberry, Nike e Tommy Hilfiger), 1 casino, 7 www.luigiverga.it. Orologeria Luigi Verga: bars and restaurants. And again, new openings of prestigious • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: Vicolungo Outlet also hosts art Via G. Mazzini corner of via Dogana, 3. readers of “Where milan” will be entitled to an additional brands such as Blumarine, Timberland, Lindt, Pollini, Sebastian exhibitions, events and other initiatives for a enjoyable T: 02 8056521. M1-M3 Duomo. map F5 10% saving (VIP Card) at all the boutiques. Stop by the Tourist • Luigi Verga Orologi: Corso Vercelli, 7. and Desigual. day’s outing. T: 02 43995176. M1 Conciliazione. map c4 Information Office and mention the magazine. For more information, visit: www.foxtown.com For more information, visit: www.thestyleoutlets.com www.fidenzavillage.com pilgiÒ—A passion for materials and a vocation for handcrafting. Pilgiò’s creative line was developed in In the picture, Versace dress worn by Halle Berry, on sale at ‘A New Home for Convivio’ boutique. 1984, gradually making a name for itself over the years

32 WHERE MILAN I NOVEMBER 2012 www.wheretraveler.com 33 Shopping Shopping Cimitero Monumentale A B Luxury shoppingC D E F G H attention to the latest innovations. Assistance centre Open Mon-Sun 10am-7pm. www.rocca1794. Buenos Aires, 64; via Montenapoleone, 12; corso V. Legnano Basilica di San ThisStazione map is Vkindly sponsored by the Rolex Official Retailers in Milan

S. Marco . and specialized workshop. Unique gift packaging com. Piazza Duomo, 25. T: 02 8057447. M1-M3 Vercelli, 3; corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 15; cornersAcquario at Simpliciano Centrale F

. Giardini Pubblici Civico (2006) Corso Garibaldi with delivery guaranteed to any part of the world. Duomo. map F4 Coin, piazza Cinque Giornate; corso di ,2 T Questura ur V. Cavalieri a V. D. Manin Museo ti Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. www. 58). Open Mon-Sun 10am-8pm. www.swatch.com.CENTRO V V. San Marco . F del S. Sepolcro atebe di Storia pisaorologeria.com. Via P. Verri corner of via ronchi—Opened in 1929, it has become a Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 15. T: 02 76000520. M1 San V. L. P.za nefra Naturale 1 tell V. De Marchi PAC - 1 Visconti i P.za Montenapoleone, 9. T: 02 76208328. M1 San Babila, prestigious reference point for all watch lovers, Babila. map g4 MILANO S. Marco alestro Padiglione d’Arte V.le Gadio P.le Cavour V. P V. Cernaia Teatro V. Contemporanea M3 Montenapoleone. map g4 always combining the passion for the high level MILAN Marengo Centro Studio V. dell’Annunciata de l V V. Corso V. Brera Svizzero watchmaking with the love for the refined jewellery, tiFFAnY & co.—This world-renowned jewellerPOPOUT has MAP V. Pontaccio ec Pa V. Fiori Oscuri c Galleria le Buenos Teatro hi str Aires pisA orologeriA-rolex Boutique—The Pisa the continuous research of the fashion trend as well four flagship stores in Milan, Florence, Bologna and Pinacoteca Archi di Porta o d’Arte o V.le V. Strehler Po Beretta di Brera V. Borgonuovo Nuova lit Moderna family has always been a forerunner in the world as the classic. Among the most prestigious brands: Rome. Located in the heart of Milan’sGadio fashion district, L.go A. V. Tivoli ecn Teatro P.le ic watch sector and now hosts the Rolex Boutique. Rolex, Tudor, Jaeger-LeCoultre. Open Open Tues-Sat it carries an exclusive selection of classically simple Greppi delle Erbe V. Mercato Morandi o P Fondazione P.tta Museo del P.za Palazzo . V. Fiori Chiari Teatro V. Marina Palazzo The collaboration between the Pisa family and the 9.30am-1pm/3pm-7pm www.ronchigioielli.com. jewellery and gift items in perfect keeping with za A. Mazzotta di Brera Risorgimento S. Erasmo Borromeo C Palazzo di Verdura Castiglioni Museo a a d’Adda Rolex brand goes back over 60 years. Open Mon Via Albricci, 2 (Temporary Shop). T: 02 877449. M3 the tradition of its famous New York counterpart s n Cusani te V. S. Carpoforoi d’Arte Antica l n Osservatorio Teatro Biblioteca di lo n BRERA 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. www.pisaorologeria. Missori map F5 founded in 1837. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm.e Pinacoteca www. - o Astronomico Galleria Manzoni Palestro d Via Del Senato 2 Castello Sforzesco a S. Maria del di Brera Manzoni 2 V. dei Giardini V. Marina com. Via Montenapoleone, 24. T: 02 76317726. M3 tiffany.com. Via della Spiga, 19/a. T: 02 76022321. M3 M V. Alessandro Manzoni V. Senato Museo del Carmine Orto . V. Brera V. Flli. Gabba QUADRILATERO V. Boschetti

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t V. della Spiga r Carmine a pomellAto—Established in 1967 as an artisan key rings, watches, objets d’art and, naturally, the toYWAtch—ToyWatch interprets a new concept of Montenapoleone Corso Venezia V Castello V. Q. Sella p . V. Ponte Vetero ● S a Ex Monte Pisa Orologeria - V. San Primo S. Pietro e laboratory and currently a reference point in Italian famous animal figurine collectables inc the best luxury with its brightly coloured watches.Sforzesco Unique n V. Borgospesso V. Melone di Pietà V r o . M Celestino b gold-crafting. Pomellato trends include vibrant of precision-cut crystal glass and related luxury collections that are distinguished by their wholly u o Rolex BoutiqueV. Santo Spirito V. Gesù e B l n l Pietà te Museo Bagatti o o i e d n n coloured stones set in red gold, irregular cuts and objects. Open Mon-Sun 10am-7.30pm. www. “Made-in-Italy” style and design but also the search r ont V. Maffei . M V a Valsecchi i o V . p F B o i l ultra-feminine designs. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat swarovski.com. Via Dante, 15. T: 02 89092256. M1 for innovative materials, often including a fusion g e P.za V l o . i n Castello G e 10am-7pm. www.pomellato.it. Via San Pietro all’Orto, 17. Cairoli. map e4 of polycarbonate, plasteramic, steel or velvet V. dell’Orso S. Giuseppe Museo . i 3 V ar di Storia 3 T: 02 76006086. M1 San Babila. map g4 combined with Swarovski elements that embellish e deg Museo r An Contemporanea Palazzo l L ito d V. rt V. Cusani de a o i Poldi Serbelloni a sWAtch—The secrets of the Swatch success are their faces and straps. www.toy-watch.it. Via V. uro B V. Sant’Andrea z Pezzoli V. San Damiano o A. V Museo Civico M P.za . . M . roccA 1794—Master jewellers and watchmakers appealing design at affordable prices. In addition Montenapoleone, 25/3. Castello V o di Milano V Fondazione ro L.go n V.V V. Alessandro Manzoni a since the 18th century, Rocca rates among the to its classical plastic styles, it now also offers new T: 02 76005996. M3 Montenapoleone. mapMatalon F4 - Museo - e i Cairoli . Casa V. Bagutta z Palazzo V. Rovello e Galleria d’Arte B P.tta M. n Fontana- first importers of luxury Swiss watches. A selection versions ranging from Irony (in metal) to Snowpass r Manzoni e S. Tomaso o Bossi Teatro V Silvestri l e Stazione L.go Maria Palazzo o Prefettura among the most prestigious brands: Damiani, Rolex, (with an integrated access function that can be vAn cleeF & Arpels—Respect for the past, a ttt V. Filodrammaticialla Scala s Callas t Belgioioso r Cadorna o Cairoli o Teatro San (Palazzo V. dei Bossi Breguet, Ulysse Nardin, Omega, Cartier, Panerai, used as a ski pass) and Beat (featuring an Internet taste for beauty, a passion for travel Fo and a search C Isimbardi) ro Buonaparte Teatro dei Casa degli P.za V. P. Verri Babila Teatro Leonardo Belgioioso Piaget, Baume&Mercier. Rocca garantees outstanding Time function). It also stocks jewellery and specials. for harmony are the underlying values that the V. M. Camperio Filodrammatici Omenoni Corso Matteotti S. Babila Dal Verme V. San Tomaso P.za V. S. Pietro all’Orte Corso Monforte levels of competence and expert skillfull consultancy. Several stores located throughout the city (corso Maison has continued to uphold since itsV. creation G. Puccini L.go P.za S. a V. Dante P.za della Meda Corso Monforte z V. Conservatorio z V. Clerici Scala Mattioli V. San Paolo Babila 4 le Palazzo V. San 4 r Pal. Marino V. L. Illica o Carmagnola Dalmazio

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V. Palla Mazzini . Maggiore a l Sormani-Andreani) V. Larga L l Galleria a e dell’Unione ● Teatro g . d V. Mazzini V. V. Gonzaga Ronchi h V Lirico e Palazzo V. P. Cannobio t t V. Torino di V. Manara LEGEND P.za S. Antonio o V. Guastalla Giustizia V. Piatti S. Alessandro Missori V.V. AlbricciAlbricc Abate

Information Theatre V. ZebediaV. Mauri o V. Zaccaria n V. Andreani Palazzo ● Ronchi Temporary o V. ChiaravalleV. Sant’Antonio Place of Interest Arcade rd V. Francesco Sforza Trivulzio Missori e V. Freguglia 7 P Giardino 7 Corso di Porta Romana V. Pantano l e Sinagoga GoldBlack Style Palace Monument d della Guastalla Torre a st Università V. VelascaVelasca e Luxury Personal Shopper and Image Consultant V. Fieno F degli Studi V. Pedestrian Area Railway Station . Daverio Teatro V di Milano V. San Barnaba Olmetto No part be of this map and guide may thereof. or omissions the consequences errors for responsibility the publishers cannot accept in this guide, check the accuracy everyWhilst has been taken to of the information care (UK). Maps Ltd. rights reserved. © 2012. All Compass Copyright CM Cartographics. by and produced designed map is originally This without the permission of the publishers. reproduced Museum Metro Palazzo Palazzo L.go (Ca’ Granda) V. San Barnaba S. S. Barnaba S. Maria Showroom & Office Archinto Corso Italia Annoni F. Richini e Paolo della Pace Galleria Strasburgo 3 A B C D E F G H 6593RA Copyright Compass Maps Ltd. (UK). © 2003. Revised 2008. All rights reserved. Whilst every care has been taken to check the accuracy of the information in this guide, the publishers cannot accept responsibility for errors or omissions or the consequences thereof.◗ No o partrologeria of this map and guide luigi may be v reproducederga without the permission of the publishers.◗ ronchi This map is originally designed and produced by CM Cartographics. (Piazza San Babila), Milano Official Retailers in Milan Via Mazzini corner of via Dogana, 3 Temporary Shop Tel. 02 39680604 T: 02 8056521 (until 20 November) ◗ pisa orologeria - rolex Boutique via Albricci, 2 Manuela Faganelli Via Montenapoleone, 24 ◗ luigi verga orologi T: 02 877449 mobile +39 338 2032234 T: 02 76317726 Corso Vercelli, 7 T: 02 43995176 From 20 November: via Gonzaga, 5 ◗ gobbi 1842 ◗ rocca 1794 T: 02 877449 www.goldblackstyle.com Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 15 Proedi ComuniCazione Piazza Duomo, 25 T: 02 76020536 T: 02 8057447

34 WHERE MILAN I NOVEMBER 2012 www.wheretraveler.com 35 Shopping Shopping

Welcome to Brera Not far from the elegant artisan footwear might be surprised to suddenly discover lovers, La Briciola, Il Consolare, and Giallo sold by Iliprandi or the vintage delights that it’s time for lunch. Try the typical for real “VIP-watching”, the Mediterrannean of Cavalli&Nastri, visitors will find the first Parma-based charcuterie specialities at flavours of Mimmo-Osteria del Corso, the Italian monobrand store of fashion guru Marc Parma & Co, where you can also enjoy Tuscan ones of Osteria Brunello and, last Jacobs, whose adjacent café is the perfect a Sunday brunch, the typical Italian fare but not least, the characteristic restaurants spot for a “trendy” aperitivo set against the offered by Chiù, also an excellent idea for of old Milan including Rigolo, All’Isola, La evocative backdrop of piazza del Carmine. tasty gift food packages, the organic menus Libera, Bebel’s and La Vecchia Lira. Not to Alfonso The array of boutiques continues with the found at Tastàri or the famed sandwiches be missed, the Carminio where the menu Garlando taylor-made, Italian-style shoes by Alfonso sold by Panino Giusto. changes daily. Garlando, the historic Milanese brand for The afternoon is likely to pass by in a flash Italian-style shoes luxury jewels Manfredi, the sophisticated offer until you suddenly realize that it’s aperitivo Via Madonnina 1 of scarves by Faliero Sarti, bags by F. Clio, time, the beloved Milanese tradition of pre- corner of piazza del Carmine www.alfonsogarlando.it the original accessories by Angela Caputi dinner drinks and a great way to relax at the Giuggiù, silverware by Giovanni Raspini, end of a long day: you are definitely likely jewellery by Kidult in via Pontaccio, designer to be seduced by the purely Art Dèco-style eyewear by Alain Mikli in corso Como, unique atmosphere of El Tombon de San Marc or leather accessories by Giòsa Milano in via the trendier atmosphere of Fashion Café in Ciovasso and the sartorial tradition of Ader via San Marco; other options are heady wine and Montezemolo. Conversely, for design tasting sessions in the informal ambience aficionados, we suggest a visit to the Calligaris of either N’Ombra de Vin or Moscatelli. flagship store, after which you will have a Conversely, the more fashion-oriented will chance to lose yourself amidst the thousand find just what they’re looking for in nearby of furnishing ideas offered by Cargo&Hi-Tech; corso Como, featuring Milan’s renowned Angela Caputi dulcis in fundo, in the real sense of the word, 10 Corso Como, a cafè, restaurant, concept Giuggiù don’t forget to sample the specialities of maître store, bookshop and exhibition space. ● S. Maria del chocolatier Guido Gobino in corso Garibaldi. Choosing the right restaurant for dinner Alfonso Garlando ● Carmine V. Madonnina ● Carminio might pose quite some discussion. Here ● Giòsa Milano Tasting suggestions are some venues where you can savour cArminio, stylish restaurant giÒsA milAno, colourful crocodile leather

Copyright Compass Maps Ltd. (UK). © 2012. All rights reserved. Whilst every care has been taken to check the accuracy of the information in this guide, the publishers in this guide, check the accuracy everyWhilst has been taken to of the information care (UK). Maps Ltd. rights reserved. © 2012. All Compass Copyright without the permission of the No part be reproduced of this map and guide may thereof. or omissions the consequences errors for responsibility cannot accept CM Cartographics. by and produced designed map is originally This publishers. Between visiting one shop and another, you authentic Italian cuisine: Maxelâ, for meat

Brera is synonymous with the artistic heart of the city. In fact, as you stroll along the streets of this ancient district, you cannot AccAdemiA di Belle Arti - via Brera 28, cAvAlli&nAstri - via Brera 2, T: 02 72000449 lA vecchiA lirA - Largo La Foppa 5, T: 02 869551 - www.accademiadibrera.milano.it www.cavallienastri.com T: 02 6599136 - www.osteriavecchialira.it help but be enchanted by its almost surreal atmosphere boasting pinacoteca - T: 02 722631 - chiù - via Pontaccio 5, T: 02 8052296 mercAtino dell’AntiquAriAto e small artisan’s workshops or quaint stores selling canvases and www.brera.beniculturali.it www.chiu.eu - via San Marco 20, T: 02 6599507 BrocAntAge - via Brera, via Fiori Chiari, via paints. Additionally, Brera is home to the impressive Accademia Biblioteca nazionale Braidense - FAliero sArti - via Solferino 11, Madonnina, via Formentini, T: 02 794593 T: 02 86460907 - www.braidense.it T: 02 8053223 mArc JAcoBs - P.zza del Carmine 6, di Belle Arti, where visitors can admire Milan’s famous painting museo Astronomico - T: 02 50314680 FAshion cAFé - via San Marco 1, T: 02 72004080 - www.marcjacobs.it collection at the Pinacoteca (the Brera Picture Gallery), the www.brera.unimi.it T: 02 6572021 www.fashioncafe.it mAxelA - via della Moscova 50, T: 02 29062926 historic Biblioteca Nazionale Braidense (Braidense National orto Botanico - T: 02 02 50314680 F.clio - via Pontaccio 7, T: 02 80505000 www.maxela.it www.brera.unimi.it www.fclio.it mimmo-Osteria del Corso - corso Garibaldi 75, Library) , the Museo Astronomico (The Astronomical Museum), 10 corso como - corso Como 10, giAllo - via Milazzo 6. T: 02 6571581 T: 02 6597441 - www.osteriadelcorso.com the oldest scientific research institute in the city and the Giardino T: 02 29013581 - www.10corsocomocafe.it www.ristorantegiallo.biz monteZemolo - corso Garibaldi 50, Botanico (Botanical Gardens), an evocative green space located Ader - via della Moscova 52, giovAnni rAspini - corso Garibaldi 51, T: 02 29000184 - www.montezemolo.net T: 02 29062425 www.ader.it T: 02 72080286 - www.raspini.it n’omBrA de vin - via San Marco 2, in the heart of the city. AlAin mikli shop - corso Como 9, giÒsA milAno - via Ciovasso 6. T:02 6599650 - www.nombradevin.it T: 02 29060349 T: 02 86997441 - www.giosamilano.com osteriA Brunello - corso Garibaldi 117, AlFonso gArlAndo - Via Madonnina 1, guido goBino - corso Garibaldi 39, T:02 6592973 - www.osteriabrunello.it Art, shopping and entertainment T: 02 874665 T: 02 89096601 - www.guidogobino.it pAnino giusto - corso Garibaldi 123, To start your sightseeing tour on the right foot, we suggest stopping All’isolA - corso Como 10, T: 02 6571624 iliprAndi - via Solferino (Galleria San Marco), T:02 6554728 - www.paninogiusto.it for a cup of coffee at Princi, not just an ordinary bakery, but a meeting Angela Caputi Giuggiù AngelA cAputi giuggù - via Madonnina 11, T: 02 29000580 pArmA & co - corso Garibaldi, T: 02 89096720 - T: 02 86461080 - www.angelacaputi.com il consolAre - via Ciovasso 4, T: 02 8053581 www.parmaeco.it point where, amidst the heady scents of “brioches” and “cappuccino”, A brand renowned throughout the world. Sophisticated, original BeBel’s - via San Marco 38, T: 02 6571658 www.ristoranteconsolare.com princi - via Ponte Vetero 10, T: 02 72016067 / you will have a chance to begin your day on a high note. A reference creations made from unusual materials such as plastic and resin, cAlligAris - via Tivoli corner of Foro Bonaparte, kidult - via Pontaccio 3, T: 02 72080271 largo La Foppa 2, T: 02 6599013 - www.princi.it point for antique lovers, Brera boasts a large number of antique shops. combined to create unique objects both in terms of colour and T: 02 91988333 - www.milano.calligaris.it www.kidult.net rigolo - via Solferino 11, T: 02 804589 shape. A magical blend of contemporary and classical taste. cArgo&hi-tech - piazza XXV aprile, lA BriciolA - via Solferino 25, T: 02 6551012 www.rigolo.it As an aside, those interested in bargains or bric a brac should definitely T: 02 6241101 - www.cargomilano.it www.labriciola.com spAZio mAnFredi - via Brera 2, T:02 876324 make time to visit the mercatino di antiquariato e brocantage, held www.angelacaputi.com cArminio - via del Carmine, 3 lA liBerA - via Palermo 21, T: 02 8053603 www.manfredi-madeinitaly.eu on the third Sunday of each month. Via Madonnina, 11– T: 02 86461080 T: 02 72022992 - www.carminiocucina.com www.ristorantelaliberamilano.com tAstàri - corso Garibaldi 59/61, T:02 72008379 www.tastari.it

36 WHERE MILAN I NOVEMBER 2012 www.wheretraveler.com 37 Shopping Shopping

in 1906. Values which though never losing sight Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. www.vhernier.it. Via Santo Spirito, Passion Shopping montBlAnc—A legendary manufacturer of fine of contemporary styles nevertheless continue to 14. T: 02 77331560. M3 Montenapoleone. map g4 writing instruments and sophisticated, high-

SPOTLIGHT encourage an ongoing dialogue between those drive Your dreAm —The city tour itineraries quality watches and jewellery. The product range UnionPay, Serving Cardholders who create the jewellery and those who wear of Drive Your Dream offer all the excitement of also Includes eyewear and leather goods. Two All Over the World! them. A timeless recognizable style defined by Leather & Luggage driving a super car either in Milan’s most prestigious locations In the city (via Montenapoleone and elegance, femininity and creative audacity are the shopping streets or its outlying areas (Lake Como corso Vercelli). Open Mon-Sat 11am-7pm. www. UnionPay is the national bankcard association hallmark features found in all the collections of this giÒsA milAno—An atelier combined with a and Lake Maggiore). Thanks to a test drive, from montblancitalia.it. Via Montenapoleone, 27B. T: 02 in China, responsible for operating the unified historic brand. For a century Van Cleef & Arpels showroom in the Brera district, where the particular 15’ to 8 hours, under the supervision of an expert 76317720. M3 Montenapoleone. map F4 inter-bank clearing and settlement system have been fusing inspiration and technical prowess way to work the crocodile leather is, before being co-pilot, you can experience all the thrill of turning in China and developing the international into creations embodying expertise, ingenuity and a business, a family history for about 40 years. The heads behind the wheel of a Ferrari Spider or scAlA shop (lA)—A destination store for the lovers acceptance network for UnionPay cards. talent. Open Tues-Sat 10am-7pm, Mon 3pm-7pm. atelier merges the traditional working techniques a Lamborghini Gallardo Spider. Flat rate fee, no of ballet and opera, this fabulously equipped shop The total number of UnionPay cards issued www.vancleef-arpels.com. Via P. Verri, 10. T: 02 of how to handle the most precious leathers with deposit or extra charges for insurance or petrol. offers a wide choice of books, CDs, DVDs, gift worldwide has exceeded 2.1 billion; in 2009, 7767951. M3 Montenapoleone. map g4 the modern and innovative way to transform www.dydrent.it. Piazza Sempione, 5. T: 02 39195044 items, merchandise, photos and posters. It has a the number of UnionPay card inter-bank them. Today Giòsa Milano has become a reality or 327 6787077 (info and reservations). map d3 corner dedicated to dance equipment and shoes transactions reached 7 billion totaling USD 1.1 villA meissen®—Drawing thousands of visitors bringing the finest craftsmanship and producing by Freddy, the official sponsors of the trillion (shops: 2.13 million / POS terminals: 2.88 all over the world each year, Meissen® has created unique pieces intended to satisfy each costumer’s e. mArinellA—Established in 1914, the Marinella Ballet corps. Purchases can also be made online. million / ATMs: 930 thousand). UnionPay has a unique life-style experience with home, fine necessity, from the choice of colors to the most brand is known throughout the world for its stylish, Open Mon-Sun 10.30am-7.30pm and on evenings also established partnerships with around 400 art, porcelain, accessories, and the most recent sophisticated finish. Open Mon-Fri 9am-1pm/2pm- hand-made neckties, worn by heads of state, during performances. www.lascalashop.it. Largo A. financial institutions all over the world. Meissen® Joaillerie collection, combining a meld 7pm: Sat and Sun by appointment. www. industrial magnates and celebrities. In addition to Ghiringhelli. T: 02 45483257. M1-M3 Duomo. map F4 more than 2000 shops already accept this of exclusive materials such as porcelain, gold giosamilano.com. Via Ciovasso, 6. T: 02 86997441. the legendary shop - still located in Naples - and its card in milan allowing hundred of thousands and precious stones, exemplifying the brand's M1 Cairoli, M2 Lanza. map F4 sophisticated Milan boutique, E. Marinella ties are segWAY—The trendiest, most environmentally-friendly of affluent Chinese customers to shop with supreme craftsmanship. This 300 year-old German also sold at its single-brand store in Tokyo, Lugano way to visit the city and its fashion streets. Segway theirfovourite cards. luxury brand has recently refurbished Casa pellux—Situated just a short distance from the Duomo, and London. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am- offers a wide range of services including: "Downtown As of now, UnionPay card’s international Carcassola-Grandi as the location for its stunning Pellux is the epitome of luxury travel luggage selling 7pm. www.marinellanapoli.it. Via Santa Maria alla tour", 3 hours in discovery of the most evocative acceptance network covers all of China, and is European Flagship store. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am- briefcases, suitcases, bags of all shapes and colours Porta, 5. T: 02 86467036. M1 Cordusio. map e4 places of the city’s historic centre, "Shopping Tour" to also extended to more than 90 countries on 5 7.30pm. www.meissen.it. Via Montenapoleone, 3. and handcrafted lines made from the most precious visit downtown boutiques with a personal shopper, continents. T: 02 89423725. M1 San Babila. map g4 skins. It is the first Italian flagship store of Rimowa, giÒsA milAno—An atelier combined with a "Movida Tour", to spend a fun-filled evening at one UnionPay not only provides quality, secure leading producer of aluminum and polycarbonate showroom in the Brera district, where the particular of the city’s most glamorous, hot spots. Reservations and efficient payment services for hundreds vhernier—A leader in the production of sublime suitcases. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. way to work the crocodile leather is, before being advisable. www.segwaytourmilan.com. Piazza of millions of cardholders all over the world, jewellery, this maison is a hot favourite with the www.pellux.it - www.rimowastoremilano.it. Piazza San a business, a family history for about 40 years. The Sempione, 5 (Arco della Pace). T: 02 39545062, info@ Villa Meissen but also brings brand new payment choices international jet set and specializes in the production of Fedele, 2 (entrance from via Agnello). T: 02 864104. M1- atelier merges the traditional working techniques of segwaytourmilan.com. map d3 and values to partners as well as energy and Home Collection highly exclusive, unique pieces. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; M3 Duomo. map F4 how to handle the most precious leathers with the opportunities for the global bankcard industry! The new Villa Meissen modern and innovative way to transform them. Today Giòsa Milano has become a reality bringing the finest Shoes European Flagship is a multi- craftsmanship and producing unique pieces intended to satisfy each costumer’s necessity, from the choice of AlFonso gArlAndo—Tailor-made, Italian-style faceted space, located on via colors to the most sophisticated finish. Open Mon-Fri shoes are the protagonists at this charming boutique italy hotline 800 873 045 Montenapoleone – the heart 9am-1pm/2pm-7pm: Sat and Sun by appointment. in the Brera district, which offers made-to-measure www.giosamilano.com. Via Ciovasso, 6. T: 02 86997441. shoes for ladies and brides available in hundreds of of Milan’s most fashionable M1 Cairoli, M2 Lanza. map F4 different styles and a wide array of materials. Open shopping street. The flagship store boasts a perfect meld of traditional values and avant- SPOTLIGHT garde concepts to offer visitors a truly unique experience. Paradise of Luxury and Elegance The new Meissen Home At Foxtown Factory stores mendrisio - just 50 km north Collectibles is an elegant of Milan and only 20 km south of Lugano () ensemble of carefully studied - 160 stores offer the most prestigious brands at prices collectors’ items that can be discounted from 30% to 70% all the year. Amongst coordinated both in terms the famous labels carried are: Armani, Bally, Blumarine, of style and colour for Burberry, Dior, Dolce&Gabbana, Gucci, Hugo Boss, Polo uber- luxe interiors. Its sofas, Ralph Lauren, Prada, Salvatore Ferragamo, Valentino, YSL armchairs, tables, lamps, and some 240 other brands. FoxTown is open daily, porcelain tableware, luxurious 11am-7pm (except 1 Jan, 1 Aug, Easter and Christmas & fabrics, linings and accessories Boxing day). Furthermore there are a Casino, 7 bars and create a trip through time restaurants and a Tourist Info Point. Tax-Free Shopping featuring the best of the classic service is available and payment is accepted by major modern period of the 40’s, 50’s, credit cards: Union Pay, Visa, MasterCard, JCB, American 60’s and 70’s. www.meissen.it Express, Visa Electron, and more. Shuttle bus service by Via Montenapoleone, 3 Zani Viaggi (www.zaniviaggi.it). T: 02 89423725

38 WHERE MILAN I NOVEMBER 2012 www.wheretraveler.com 39 Shopping

viBrAm see page 40. drive Your dreAm see pages 39 and 60. segWAY see page 39.

Mon 12.30am-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun consisting of delicately handcrocheted lamps. Open stuartweitzman.com. Via della Spiga, 3. T: 02 76003316. 11am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7pm. www.alfonsogarlando.it. 10am-7pm. www.pollini.com. Via della Spiga, 15. T: 02 M1 San Babila. map g4 Via Madonnina, 1. T: 02 874665. M2 Lanza map F4 76015351. M3 Montenapoleone. map g4 vergelio—A historic brand offering some of the finest BAllin—The signature brand of “Made-in-Italy” rodo FirenZe—A new space inspired by the quality footwear for men and women. Collections excellence and leader in the artisan production of longstanding heritage of this Florentine maison that are always abreast of the latest fashion trends luxury footwear has recently opened a new single- renowned for its high-class craftsmanship in leather without ever foregoing quality. A Made-in-Italy “must”.

brand store in Milan. Extending over a surface area and footwear and accessories. The boutique The chain has many other shops scattered around C of 200 sq.m. in Milan’s Quadrilatero della Moda, the features a contemporary ambience dominated by a the city. Open Mon 3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am- store makes a statement with its minimalist lines and magnificent crystal staircase that connects the shop to 7.30pm. www.vergelio.it. Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, M elegant decor. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www. the showroom. Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm/2.30pm- 10. T: 02 76003087. M1 San Babila. map F4 Y ballin-shoes.it. Via Santo Spirito, 5. T: 02 76014904. M3 7pm. www.rodo.it. Corso Matteotti, 14. T: 02 84961950.

Montenapoleone. map g4 M1 San Babila. map g4 viBrAm—From the well-known Italian company that CM

produces rubber soles for sports footwear and, in FrAtelli rossetti—Renowned throughout the sergio rossi—Sergio Rossi awakens the femme fatale particular, hiking boots, amongst other things, this MY world for their comfort and fit. These beautifully in every woman. Beautifully crafted, comfortable, shop offers the highly original “Vibram FiveFingers” CY handcrafted shoes are a perfect mix of luxury eye-catching footwear designed for women in product that adapts perfectly to the shape of any

and tradition, with an added touch of originality. search of an iconic symbol of style. Each pair of shoes foot. Open Mon 3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am- CMY Beautiful and stylish to boot. The boutique is is checked for quality at least 120 times. Sergio Rossi 1.30pm/3pm-7.30pm. www.vibram.com. Via R. Sanzio, closed for rennovation until the end of March also stocks handbags. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. 6. T: 02 36528461. M1 Wagner. map B4 K

and it will reopen with a completly new concept. www.sergiorossi.com. Via Montenapoleone, 27. T: 02 The temporary shop is in corso Matteotti, 22 76006140. M3 Montenapoleone. map F4

inside Galleria del Toro. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Stationery Sun 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm. www.fratellirossetti. stuArt WeitZmAn—A brand specializing in com. Via Montenapoleone, 1. T: 02 76021650. M3 comfortable, high-fashion women’s footwear, Stuart pettinAroli—Established in 1881 as a print shop Montenapoleone. map g4 Weitzman offers trendy styles, uber-luxe pumps and this year celebrating its 130th anniversary,

with staggeringly high stiletto heels and evening it subsequently branched out into traditional pollini—This new concept store houses all the sandals featuring the brand’s unique, unmistakable stationery. On offer, highly unique gifts, personalized collections of men and women’s footwear and style. More than 600 creations for all seasons planners, business cards printed on the finest of accessories in three rooms. On stepping inside, combing both classic and exotic materials – from papers and antique prints. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; customers will be welcomed by iconic armchairs cork to printed snakeskin, from goretex to gelatinous Tues-Sat 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm. www.fpettinaroli.it. of retro inspiration, artistically placed throughout materials -, worn by beautiful people and fashionistas Piazza San Fedele, 2 (entrance from via T. Marino). the various rooms, and a hanging lighting system the world over. Open daily 10am-7pm. www. T: 02 86464642-1875. M1-M3 Duomo. map F4

THE SHOPPING GUIDE ontenapoleoneLive your Milan experience

June 2012 n. 3

by by

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THERE ARE STORIES THAT DESERVE TOLive BE CAPTURED your FOREVER. THERE ARE STORIES THAT DESERVE TO BE CAPTURED FOREVER. exclusive M ontenapoleone by Milan experienceCEO of Faraone Vittoria Bianchi, Ю ontenapoleone ь Thanks to International, wearing a necklace with butterfl y charms, РУС "I Composable" prêt-à-porter line ь ПАХНЕТИ ГИД 1 2012 ЗДЕСьЗДЕС РУСьЮл ИИлИ ГИД A gift from your hotel РОССИЯНЕ 10 euro by The ultimate shopping guide to Milan ПОГДЕ РЕСТОРАНАМ ЛЮБЯТ ПОЕСТЬ SUMMER ЛУЧШИЙ Visit the website КРАСИВО ЖИТьЖИТ ТОльКО НЕ ЗАПРЕТИШьЗАПРЕТИШПЯТИЗВЕЗДНЫЙSPA В ГОРОДЕ ДлЯ ВАС Where Milan project is endorsed by

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40 WHERE MILAN I NOVEMBER 2012 Dining Dining

(Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II). T: 02 72003433. M1-M3 catalogna chicory soup, fresh spaghetti alla chitarra Guidelines Duomo. Map F4 with Vesuvio tomatoes and basil, mullet stuffed This directory, grouped by category, is a list of with potatoes, capers, olives, orange sauce and sea establishments recommended by the editors of veranda (la)-Four seasons—The wonderful urchins, costoletta alla Milanese and, for dessert, Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. cuisine prepared by Sergio Mei, one of Italy’s Montebianco “à la mode du chef”. Closed on Sat at map locations foremost chefs, can be experienced at this ultra- lunch and on Sun. €€€€. http://milano.park.hyatt.it. Via Note that references in bold at the end of each luxurious restaurant located inside one of Italy’s T. Grossi, 1. T: 02 88211234. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4 listing (a1, b5 etc) refer to the coordinates on the most glamorous hotels overlooking the gandens. street maps on pages 62-63. His unique Mediterranean style of cooking, with particular emphasis on the cuisine of Sardinia, the Traditional Italian Cuisine inFormation chef’s native birthplace, brings to life an array of Reservations for most restaurants are strongly unforgettable flavours and ingredients. Open daily bagutta— One of Milan’s oldest restaurants, Bagutta advised. Consult your concierge. In Italy, service 7am-11pm. €€€€. www.fourseasons.com/milan. Via is famous, among other things, for a literary prize is included in the price meaning that although Gesù, 6/8. T: 02 77081435. M3 Montenapoleone, M1 that was once awarded here. In fact, it is also for this tipping is not compulsory, it is obviously San Babila. Map G4 reason that it is patronized by VIPs and intellectuals. Its appreciated as a sign of satisfaction. Some menus top-class cuisine (Tuscan and Lombard) can also be include the word “coperto”, a small surcharge trussardi alla scala—Located next of the Teatro savoured in the garden. House specialities include: la corresponding to the cost of the service and alla Scala, this restaurant, boasting two Michelin stars, “fiorentina”, the famous Florentine T-bone steak, the bread. Although no dress code exists in Italy, embodies outstanding interior design and top-rate “scaloppina alla Bagutta”, and soups. Closed on Sun. semi-formal clothing is usually considered de cuisine. The chef Andrea Berton is known for his €€€. www.bagutta.it. Via Bagutta 14. T: 02 76002767. rigeur at restaurants. All restaurants and bars are scallops with ginger and peanut cream sauce. Other M1 San Babila. Map G4 non-smoking unless a separate smokers’ area signature dishes include “liquid salad with cuttlefish is specifically offered. Several unusual venues, dumpling and black olive oil”, “risotto with raw prawns botinero—Nestling in the characteristic Brera offering unique gourmet delicacies, are listed Sicilia and coral” and “duck Nantaise, steamed breast, district, this restaurant is a welcoming, sought-after under tasting experience. fried leg and grilled spring onion”. Closed on Sat at gourmet location. Owned by soccer stars Zanetti and prices lunch and on Sun. €€€€. www.trussardi.it. Piazza della Cambiasso, it offers all the typical flavours of Italian Prices are per person. Scala, 5. T: 02 80688201. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4 cuisine, with particular emphasis on fresh, seasonal € = 30 € or less / €€ = 31-50€ / €€€ = 51-100€ / €€€€ ingredients. Wine connoisseurs will be delighted = 101-150€ / €€€€€ = 150€ and above. vun-park hYatt— A fabulous restaurant, overlooking by its serious wine list. The venue boasts five dining the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele, with food by the areas (including three private rooms) for all occasions, supremely talented chef, Andrea Aprea. Signature from romantic dinners right up to corporate events, dishes include, seafood salad, porcini mushroom and seats up to 120 people. The whole is completed €€€. www.ristorantedoncarlos.it. Via A. Manzoni, 29. salad with slivers of Parmesan cheese, eggs poché, by a fabulous outdoor area for “al fresco” dining, far T: 02 72314640. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4 Photo Adriano Caramenti Photo

le noir-the graY— In perfect keeping with the Friendly Atmosphere at La Briciola hotel’s style and design the “Le Noir” Restaurant, situated on the first floor of the Gray Hotel, has a This delightful venue, established almost 36 years ago by patron “Gianni”, is set in the heart of Brera and totally black look, in a post-modern oasis where one was recently enlarged to include a bar and lounge area. The atmosphere chez “La Briciola” is warm and can enjoy Mediterranean dishes skilfully revisited by the Chef: a cuisine based on fresh and light products, friendly, thanks to Gianni and his “merry” team of waiters who have made hospitality one of their signature like hand made pasta, fresh fish and vegetables. The features. It is not mere chance that, since its inception, the venue has been the favourite haunt of the restaurant also offers every day a business lunch menu. A vegetarian menu is also available on request Milanese jet-set and numerous “friends”, who meet here to spend a pleasant evening in good company. for those who love healthy and light recipes. €€€. Boasting a sophisticated, elegant atmosphere and outstanding Mediterranean cuisine featuring a www.hotelthegray.it Via San Raffaele, 6. T: 02 7208951. M1, M3 Duomo Map F4

selection of superior-quality meat, La Briciola is also renowned for its typical Milanese specialities including marchesino (il)-teatro alla scala—Gualtiero “riso al salto” and the authentic version of “cotoletta alla Milanese” (Milanese-style breaded veal cutlet). Marchesi, the “Maestro” of Italian cuisine, is the La Briciola, Via Solferino, 25 (entrance via Marsala, 2) T: 02 6551012 / 6551105 [email protected] - www.labriciolamilano.it mind behind these fabulous restaurant and bistrot which, among other things, are set in a superb location: the Teatro alla Scala. Music and good food, a combination which gives life to the best dishes ADV HONG KONG For more detailed listings, please see (65 euros); Business lunch from Mon to Fri (50 euros). bulgari-il ristorante—An oasis of tranquillity, of Italian haute cuisine, featuring original creations www.wheretraveler.com €€€€. www.hotelprincipedisavoia.com/ristorante- carrying the Bulgari trademark, in the heart of Milan. and updates of the classics of Milanese cuisine, from acanto. Piazza della Repubblica, 17. T: 02 62302026. The famous chef, Andrea Ferrero, offers elegant risotto to breaded veal cutlets. After-theatre dinner M3 Repubblica. Map G2 presentations and small, though satisfying, portions. service. Closed on Sat at lunch and on Sun. www. ComuniCazione– Photo by matteo barro Proedi ComuniCazione– Photo by matteo €€€€. Open daily. www.bulgarihotels.com. Via privata ilmarchesino.it. €€€€. Via Filodrammatici, 2 corner of Haute Cuisine armani nobu—An ultra-trendy ambiance Fratelli Gabba, 7/b. T: 02 805805233. . T: 02 72094338. M1-M3 Duomo, patronized by the fashion crowd. It goes M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4 M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4 acanto-principe di savoia— A fabulously elegant without saying that this fab restaurant, owned HONG KONG ambiance awaits you at the famous Hotel Principe by the legendary “Giorgio”, is located in Milan’s don carlos-grand hotel et de milan—Set savini— As much a city Landmark as La Scala, this di Savoia. The tables are set just the right distance “Quadrilatero della Moda”. Contemporary luxury, against an elegant backdrop in the heart of Milan well-established restaurant is considered to be the apart, the service is impeccable and the atmosphere impeccable service and creative cuisine with a (entrance also through the Grand Hotel et de Milan), city’s finest. Stylish decor and period furnishings 香港楼 exudes charm. The restaurant offers superior quality touch of Japanese, signed by the internationally it is an intimate spot set within a warm, sophisticated create a sophisticated ambiance which, combined food prepared by renowned chefs with dishes that renowned chef, Nobuyuki Matsuhisa. Open Mon- ambience. It has an elegant outdoor area and a cellar with impeccable service, make this a perfect dining Since 1978 one of the best stylishly update the classics of Milanese cuisine, with Sat 12am-3pm; 6.30 pm-midnight. Sun 6.30pm- boasting over 200 superlative wines. The menu is experience. The chef Giovanni Bon offers an array of risotto taking centre stage. The chef’s creativity is midnight. €€€€. www.armaninobu.it. Via G. Pisoni, enhanced by the creative cuisine of Angelo Gangemi, wonderfully creative food, demonstrating his truly Chinese restaurant in Milan. Via Schiaparelli, 5 also expressed in the pasta, meat and fish dishes. 1 corner of via A. Manzoni. T: 02 62312645. M3 a young, talented Roman chef, and his team. Open authentic talent. Two tasting menus, “Savini 2011” Authentic and elegant. (corner of via Ponte Seveso, 31) Open daily 7pm-11pm. Brunch on Sun 12.30am-3pm Montenapoleone. Map F4 every day until late at night for after-theatre diners. (5 dishes for 95 euros), or “Sorpresa” (6 creations by T: 02 6701992 - 02 67071790 the chef for 110 euros). Closed on Sat at lunch and Closed on Monday at lunch. www.ristorantehongkong.it on Sun. €€€€. www.savinimilano.it. Via U. Foscolo, 5 Where guidebooks, magazines and maps reach more than 80 million travelers and residents every year.

42 WHERE MILAN I NOVEMBER 2012 www.wheretraveler.com 43 Dining sergio mei, la veranda Dining

Golden Restaurants

® QuickGuide Now Available! Don't miss the first edition of the Golden Guide ) MILANO Golden Restaurants Restaurants, the exclusive guide to Milanese I suggerimenti dei concierge restaurants recommended by the Golden Recommended by your concierge Keys Concierges. Here we offer you a sneak preview of several of the most interesting claudio sadler locations featuring the best of Italy’s culinary la veranda giacomo arengario sadler MILANO GOLDEN RESTAURANTS GOLDEN MILANO tradition. Don't miss several tips from chefs and

Con le specialità degli Chef Tips from Chefs sommeliers. Bon appétit! GRIGLIAMANIA— Tasty though simple meat- RISTORANTE GIANNINO—A favourite haunt Fabrizio Cadei Angelo Gangemi Sergio Mei based menu. Piazza Sire Raúl, 4. Open daily, of the Milanese jet-set with a rich menu in font cohin bold Claudio Sadler logo nuovo_35x35.pdf 7-05-2008 21:36:47 Ask your Concierge

Clefs d’Or 12am-2.30pm/7pm-11.30pm. T: 02 2846261. keeping with the venue’s age-old tradition.

Clefs d’Or

Clefs d’Or

” “ ro Le Chiavi d’O Off Map Open daily, 12am-3pm/7pm-11.30pm. Associazione Lombarda Portieri d’Albergo – Le Chiavi d’Oro Via V. Pisani, 6. T: 02 66986998. MAMMA ROSA—Outstanding delicacies of www.giannino.it. Map G2 ACANTO—Five star restaurant at the Hotel menu. Open daily 9.30am-3pm/7pm-1.30am. Italian regional cuisine and a cellar which is Principe di Savoia offers an elegant ambience Via Dell'Orso, 1. T: 02 8693273. a real museum dedicated to wine. Closed on RISTORANTE SOLFERINO—Since 1909, boasting superior quality food by Chef www.ilcoriandolo.com. Map F4 Sunday. Piazza Cincinnato, 4. T: 02 84571125. traditional Milanese cuisine in the heart of Fabrizio Cadei. Open daily 7pm-11pm. www.osteriamammarosa.it. Map H2 Brera. Via Castelfidardo, 2. Open daily. T: 02 Piazza della Repubblica, 17. T: 02 62302026. DON LISANDER—Fashionable restaurant in the 29005748. www.ilsolferino.com. Map F2 www.hotelprincipedisavoia.com Map G3 heart of Milan. An elegant atmosphere and MONTECRISTO—A historic reference point for impeccable service. Traditional and clientele that loves fresh fish. Corso Sempione SADLER—Creativity and culinary innovation BERTI (DA )—Large frescoed veranda regional Italian cuisine. Via A. Manzoni, 12/A. 28, corner of via Prina, 17. Open Mon, Wed, are expressed in the various menus signed acanto overlooking a marvellous century-old T: 02 76020130. www.ristorantedonlisander.it. Thurs, Fri, Sun 12.10am-2.30pm/7.10pm- by Claudio Sadler, an internationally garden. Typical Milanese cuisine. Open 12am- Map F4 11.30pm. Closed on Tues and on Sat renowned two-Michelin starred chef. Open angelo gangemi, don carlos 2pm/8pm-10.30pm. Closed on Saturday at at lunch. T: 02 312760/3495049. 7.30pm-11pm. Closed on Sunday. Via A. lunch and on Sunday. Via Algarotti, 20. EAT’S BISTRÒ—Very high quality food in the www.ristorantemontecristo.com. Map D2 Sforza, 77. T: 02 58104451. www.sadler.it. T: 02 6694627. www.daberti.it. Map G1 new luxury concept Excelsior Milano. Excelsior Off Map Milano in Galleria del Corso 4. Open daily PAPER MOON—Elegant venue for a pre- BICE—Iconic Milanese restaurant renowned for 12am-3pm/7.30pm-12pm. T: 02 76280614. or post-cinema/theatre meal. Via Bagutta, 1. TAVERNA DEI GOLOSI (LA) — Tuscan cuisine its exquisite cuisine. A culinary haunt of the www.excelsiormilano.com. Map G4 Open Mon-Sat 12.30am-5pm/7.30pm-12pm. in a rustic atmosphere. Corso Sempione, 12. fashion crowd and a must-visit stopover for Closed on Sun. T: 02 76022297. Open daily, 12.30am-3pm/7pm-12pm. stars. Open daily except on Sunday at dinner. GENTE DI MARE—A perfect meld of French www.papermoonmilano.com. Map G4 T: 02 3451630. www.tavernadeigolosi.com. Via Borgopesso, 12. T: 02 76002572/795528. charm and classic Mediterranean influences. Map D2 www.bicemilano.it. Map G4 Open 12am-2.20pm/7pm-11.30pm. Closed RISACCA 6 (LA)—One of the city’s best seafood on Sunday. Bastioni di , 5. T: 02 places, set within one of Milan’s oldest VERANDA (LA)—Tradition, innovation, BRICIOLA (LA)—A refined, elegant ambience, 29005823. www.ristorantegentedimare.it. districts. Open 12.30am-2.30pm/7.30pm-11pm. creativity, signed by master chef Sergio Mei outstanding Mediterranean cuisine and a Map E2 Closed on Sunday and on Monday at lunch. Via at the extra-luxurious restaurant. wine cellar boasting several of the finest Marcona, 6 (corner of via Cellini). Four Seasons Hotel Milano. Via Gesù 6/8. vintages. Open 12.30am-3pm/7.30pm-11pm. GIACOMO (DA)—Set against a romantic T: 02 55181658/5468041. www.larisacca6.it. Open daily 8am-11pm. T: 02 77081478. Closed on Sunday and on Monday at lunch. backdrop, it offers a prevalently fish-based Map H5 www.fourseasons.com/milan. Map G4 la risacca 6 Via Solferino, 25. T: 02 6551012. menu and a wide selection of fine wines. www.labriciolamilano.it. Map F3 Open daily 12.30am-2.30pm/7.30pm-11.30pm. Photos Adriano Caramenti Via P. Sottocorno, 6. T: 02 76023313. bice la briciola CAVALLINI—Elegant, though informal with a www.giacomoristorante.com. Map H4 Fabrizio cadei, acanto charming garden. A mix of traditional and avant garde cuisine. Open 12am-3pm/7pm- GIACOMO ARENGARIO—A tribute to Art Déco midnight. Closed on Saturday at lunch. set within a unique location: the Museo del Via M. Macchi, 2. T: 02 6693174/6693771. Novecento. For a stunning panoramic view www.ristorantecavallini.it. Map G2 over the Duomo. Open daily 12am-12pm. Via G. Marconi, 1. T: 02 72093814. CELLINI (AL)—Elegant ambience. Fresh, fish- www.giacomoarengario.com. based dishes. Open daily (except on Saturday Map F5 at lunch) 12am-3pm/7.30pm-11.30pm. Via B. Cellini, 19. T: 02 76024484. GIACOMOBISTROT—Ideal for a pre-or post- www.alcellini.it. Map H4 cinema/theatre meal in an ambience where the decorative mood brings to mind the decor CORIANDOLO (IL)—A good venue for a post- of times gone by. Open daily 12am-12pm. theatre/cinema dinner or a light business Via P. Sottocorno, 6. T: 02 76022653 lunch in the heart of Milan. Upscale Italian www.giacomobistrot.com. Map H4 Photo Adriano Caramenti Photo

44 WHERE MILAN I NOVEMBER 2012 www.wheretraveler.com 45 Dining MILAN EXPERIENCE removed from the hustle and bustle of city life. €€. Italian cuisine. The speciality of the house is risotto. malmaison (la)—Its name is reminiscent of www.botinero.it. Via San Marco, 3. T: 02 65560840. M2 For dessert, also try the chestnut semifreddo with Napoleone Bonaparte’s favourite dwelling. Moscova, M3 Turati. Map F3 persimmon sauce. €€€. www.ristorantedonlisander. This exclusive Milanese restaurant still retains all CANTINA PIEMONTESE it. Via A.Manzoni, 12/A. T: 02 76020130. M3 the charm and romantic aura of this glorious Thanks to the passion of its patron Laura, and the expertise cantina piemontese—A top-level “trattoria” with Montenapoleone. Map F4 past offering diners an elegant, unforgettable of Chef Ivo, at this top-level “trattoria” – just a few steps from a welcoming atmosphere situated in a beautiful experience. The venue serves an array of highly corner of Milan just a short distance from the galleria—Situated halfway between the Duomo sought-after dishes (mainly fish) which can be the Duomo – not only will you find a traditional, top-quality Duomo. Originally a winery with a prestigious and La Scala, Galleria offers elegant inside and savoured by candlelight in an ambience of pure restaurant but also a welcoming, rustic and unpretentious tradition, this charming bistrot furnished in 1930s outside dining, the perfect place to enjoy Italian sophistication. Open Mon-Sun 8pm-12pm (make atmosphere. The food is comforting too, featuring typical Italian style offers diners a choice of classic regional cuisine style hospitality, from a simple espresso to the sure to book ahead even for lunch). €€€€€. www. dishes (homemade pasta and fabulous beef) plus an astute from all over Italy. Certified by the Italian association cuisine or mouth watering. Established as a lamalmaison.it. Via Comune Antico, 27. T: 02 selection of fine wines for a memorable dining experience. for celiac disease. Closed on Sun. €€. www.cantina- mid twentieth century café, today Galleria is 67101302. Off Map Certified by the Italian Association for celiac disease. piemontese.it. Via Laghetto, 2. T: 02 784618. M1-M3 also a stylish restaurant and pizzeria featuring a Closed on Sunday. Duomo. Map G5 traditional wood-fired pizza oven. Open 365 days memo restaurant—A charming restaurant a year from 8am to 1am. Live music after 7. €€. featuring a 1930s ambience where you can via laghetto, 2 c arminio—Nestling within the heart of Brera, www.ristorantegalleria.it Galleria Vittorio Emanuele spend an entire evening starting with an t: 02 784618 Carmino offers light, healthy, tantalizing fare. The II, 75. T: 02 86464912. M1-M3 Duomo. Map G4 aperitivo and ending with an after-dinner www.cantina-piemontese.it menu changes daily depending on the availability of drink. The cuisine offers regional dishes made seasonal products which arrive fresh, each day, from bistrot-hermitage—This is a from only the freshest, seasonal ingredients vegetable gardens, farms and estates just outside contemporary space featuring decor and settings with a choice of 3 tasting menus, from the the city. House specialities include Cream of lentils inspired by “Il Giorno”, a traditional Milanese kitchen, from the grill and from the wood- LA MALMAISON with basmati rice and bacon, Gnocchetti served newspaper of longstanding repute. A sort of fired oven. Also the ideal spot for after-dinner with raisins, capers, chard and Taggiasche olives and “literary restaurant” which, though reserved, entertainment thanks to a rich calendar of This exclusive Milanese restaurant still retains all the charm and Revoltillos de huevos with chard. Also make sure to also offers a “laid-back” atmosphere. Its regional performances and shows. Open Mon-Sat romantic aura of its glorious past offering diners an elegant, try the restaurant’s delectable desserts. Closed on Lombardy cuisine, created by chef Alessandro 7.30pm-2am. €€. memorestaurant.it. Via Monte unforgettable experience. The venue offers an array of highly Sunday. €€€. Via del Carmine, 3. T: 02 72022992. www. Tamborrino, is based on a careful selection of Ortigara, 30. T: 02 54019856. Map I5 sought-after dishes (mainly fish) which can be savoured by carminiocucina.com products, with no fuss or frills. An interesting detail: candlelight in an ambience of pure sophistication. Open Mon- alongside the traditional menu, the restaurant oltremare–boscolo exedra—Located inside Sun 8pm-12pm (make sure to book ahead even for lunch). don lisander—For more than sixty years, a offers its customers also a totally gluten-free menu the Boscolo Exedra Hotel in Milan, just a few fashionable restaurant situated right in the heart of that enhances all the flavours of high-quality steps from the Duomo, the Oltremare restaurant Milan, just a short distance from the Teatro alla Scala. regional cooking. €€. www.monrifhotels.it/ expresses an innovative concept of contemporary An elegant atmosphere and impeccable service. The HotelHermitage.it. Open daily. Via Messina, 10. T: 02 luxury. Decorated with eclectic artworks, its décor, menu features traditional Lombardy and regional 31817402. Map D1 though supremely elegant, is also somewhat via comune antico, 27 unconventional, as is its cuisine. Its sophisticated t: 02 67101302 culinary philosophy is expressed through artisan www.lamalmaison.it dishes, cooked with only the freshest organic ingredients that highlight their taste, re-evoking its regional past in order to allow diners to experience new and unusual flavours. Always open. €€€. SU GARDEN www.boscolohotels.com. Corso Matteotti, 4-6. T: 02 77679640. M1 San Babila. Map G4 A gorgeous, stylishly illuminated wooden veranda acts as the romantic backdrop to this new venue. Its menu offers a delightful paciFic milano restaurant-hilton—It takes a mix of oriental flavours including traditional Cantonese cuisine particular interest in vegetarian and vegan cuisine or more piquant Thai food, boasting a clever blend of spices and with international and Italian meals, featuring a an array of sweet-and-sour samplings. In addition to time-honoured selection of vegetarian dishes. €€. Pacific Milano classics such as kung pao chicken and Pekinese duck, diners can also Restaurant c/o Hotel Hilton Milan. Via L. Galvani, 12. T: sample fragrant spring rolls filled with salmon, Philadelphia cheese 02 69833008. M2 Centrale FS. Map G1 and lettuce, meat-stuffed roulades, and rice tagliatelle served with shrimp, onions, bamboo shoots and peanuts. ristorante giannino—One of the oldest restaurants in Milan, it was opened in 1899, by via carlo tenca, 12 Pisa-born Giannino Bindi. Boasting a 300 seating t: 02 36746363 capacity, the restaurant has a number of elegantly www.sugarden.it furnished dining rooms decorated in light and dark shades. Classic menus and simple food made from only the finest, freshest ingredients. A varied menu in keeping with the restaurant’s MAMA BURGER age-old tradition featuring a wide selection of fish Proedi ComuniCazione and meat, regional dishes and mouth watering “The best burger in town”: this is the perfect place to enjoy a real desserts. Closed on Sat and on Sun at lunch. €€. hamburger, either during your lunch break or at dinner (but also www.giannino.it. Via V. Pisani, 6. T: 02 66986998. M3 for a nighttime snack), in perfect American style. A brainchild Repubblica. Map G2 of Guido Cancellieri, the venue boasts minimalist décor and a cosmopolitan atmosphere – the perfect backdrop to delectable, taverna del sacripante— Simone Suardi is one of genuine, underground cuisine made only from the freshest Milan’s youngest and most talented chefs. A protégé ingredients. Its open-space kitchen and glass-fronted windows of the famous Pietro Leeman, chef patron of the overlooking piazza della Repubblica convey a trendy, welcoming famous Joia restaurant, he boasts creativity, technical atmosphere. To stay or to go, open daily from 11 am to 2 am. First in Italy ability and intelligence. At his restaurant, with its International Famous Restaurant Parisian-bistrot type atmosphere, clients can savour via agnello, 18 – t: 02 84579407 a mixture of creative, traditional dishes. In addition to via v. pisani, 14 – t: 02 67075379 www.giardinodigiada.it for Chinese Cuisine risotto, fish’n chips and fried pizza are his “must-try” www.mamaburger.it Via Palazzo Reale, 5 specialities. Always closed at lunch and on Mon. Tel 02 8053891 Closed on Monday €€. www.sacripante.com. Viale Coni Zugna, 52. T: 02 more info: www.wheremilan.com 83390065. M2 Sant’Agostino. Map D6

46 WHERE MILAN I NOVEMBER 2012 www.wheretraveler.com 47 Dining Dining

Five star flavours Where® Milan only at premiere hotels... 5 sTAR DELUXE Best Western Mozart – Piazza Gerusalemme, 6 • D2 Mythos – Via C. Tenca, 21 • G2 The top restaurants of five star hotels in Milan Armani Hotel – Via Manzoni, 31 • F4 Bristol – Via D. Scarlatti, 32 • H2 Nasco – Corso Sempione, 69 • C1 Bulgari Hotels & Resorts – Via Privata Fratelli Gabba, 7/b • F4 Brunelleschi – Via F. Baracchini, 12 • F5 NH Fiera – Viale degli Alberghi • OFF MAP Four seasons Hotel Milano – Via Gesù, 8 • G4 Camperio House suite & Apartments – Via M. Camperio, 9 • E4 NH Grand Hotel Verdi – Via M. Gioia, 6 • F2 specialities prepared by Executive Chef Sergio Mei Grand Hotel et de Milan – Via A. Manzoni, 29 • F4 Capitol World Class – Via D. Cimarosa, 6 • C4 NH Linate – Via A.Grandi, 12 – Peschiera Borromeo (MI) • OFF MAP Park Hyatt – Via T. Grossi, 1 • F4 Carlyle Brera – Corso G. Garibaldi, 84 • E3 NH Machiavelli – Via Lazzaretto, 5 • G3 at La Veranda (Four Seasons Hotel Milano). Principe di savoia – Piazza della Repubblica, 17• G2 Cavour – Via Fatebenefratelli, 21 • F3 NH Milanofiori – 2a Strada – Assago (MI) • OFF MAP A highly appealing location which can be enjoyed seven stars Galleria – Via S. Pellico, 8 • F5 Colombia – Via R. Lepetit, 15 • G2 NH Milano Touring – Via Tarchetti, 2 • G3 at all times during the day thanks to its numerous The Westin Palace – Piazza della Repubblica, 20 • G2 Corte del Naviglio – Via Lodovico il Moro, 117 • OFF MAP NH President – Largo Augusto, 10 • G5 themed initiatives. Chef Sergio Mei and his team Town House 8 – Via S. Pellico, 8 • F5 Corvetto Residence – Via Osimo, 10 • OFF MAP Nhow – Via Tortona, 35 • C6 of 28 staff offer diners Mediterranean cuisine with Crivi’s – Corso di , 46 • G6 Palazzo delle stelline – Corso Magenta, 61 • E4 a twist, prepared with the best selection of fresh, 5 sTAR Crowne Plaza – Via M. Gioia, 73 • G1 Palazzo segreti – Via San Tomaso, 8 • E4 seasonal ingredient. www.fourseasons.com/milan Boscolo Exedra – Corso G. Matteotti, 4/6 • G4 De la Ville – Via U. Hoepli, 6 • F5 Radisson Blu – Via , 24 • OFF MAP Carlton Hotel Baglioni – Via Senato, 5 • G4 Del Corso – Via G. Pecchio, 2 • I1 Raffaello – Viale Certosa, 108 • OFF MAP Chateau Monfort – Corso Concordia, 1 • H4 Domina Inn Milano Fiera – Via Don Orione, 18 Ramada Plaza– Via S. d’Ancona, 27 • OFF MAP If nostalgia is your thing, then you should definitely Meliá – Via Masaccio, 19 • B2 – Novate Milanese (MI) • OFF MAP Regency – Via G. Arimondi, 12 • C1 try Il Caruso (Grand Hotel et de Milan), a cosy, Pierre – Via De Amicis, 32 • E5 Double tree by Hilton – Via Ludovico di Breme, 77 • OFF MAP Regina – Via C. Correnti, 13 • E5 open-space location enhanced by a winter garden. le noir style – Via Mercato,1 • E3 Enterprise – Corso Sempione, 91 • C1 Residence Bianca Croce – Via E. Paladini, 7 • OFF MAP At the new Caruso Fuori space, guests can dine at The Gray – Via San Raffaele, 6 • F4 Four Points by sheraton Milan Center – Via G. Cardano, 1 • G1 Residence Desenzano Milano – Via Desenzano, 12 • A5 tables set up inside a charming veranda area. Galileo – Corso Europa, 9 • G4 Residence Romana – Corso di Porta Romana, 64 • G6 www.grandhoteletdemilan.it 4 sTAR Grand Hotel Plaza – Piazza A. Diaz, 3 • F5 Royal Garden – Via G. Di Vittorio – Assago (MI) • OFF MAP Another of the hotel’s culinary reference visiting La Sinfonia (Seven Stars Galleria), a luxury AC – Via E. Tazzoli, 2 • E1 Grand Hotel Puccini – Corso Buenos Aires, 33 – • H2 sanpi – Via L. Palazzi, 18 • G3 destinations is Don Carlos, boasting exquisite location dedicated to excellence. This discreet Acca Palace – Via G. Nicotera, 9 • OFF MAP Grand Hotel Villa Torretta – Via Milanese,3 sheraton Diana Majestic – Viale Piave, 42 • H3 acanto Accursio – Viale Certosa, 88 • OFF MAP – Sesto San Giovanni (MI) • OFF MAP sheraton food skilfully prepared by renowned Chef Angelo restaurant offers a selection of various traditional ADI Doria Grand Hotel – Via A. Doria, 22 • OFF MAP Grand Visconti Palace – Viale Isonzo, 14 • H7 – Malpensa Terminal 1 – SS. 336 (VA) • OFF MAP Gangemi. www.ristorantedoncarlos.it dishes and can also be reserved for special events ADI Hotel Poliziano Fiera – Via A. Poliziano, 11 • D2 Green House Hotel Residence – Viale Famagosta, 50 • OFF MAP silver – Via R. Lombardi, 9/11• OFF MAP or celebratory dinners. www.sevenstarsgalleria.com Admiral – Via Domodossola, 16 • C2 Hermitage – Via Messina, 10 • E2 spadari al Duomo – Via Spadari, 11 • F5 At Acanto (Hotel Principe di Savoia), the cuisine In perfect keeping with the style and design of the Ambasciatori – Galleria Del Corso, 3 • G4 Hilton – Via L. Galvani, 12• G1 st. George – Viale , 9 • H3 of Executive Head Chef Fabrizio Cadei takes hotel, the all black decor of Le Noir (The Gray) is a The cuisine of Straf Hotel & Bar offers a Antares Accademia – Viale Certosa, 68 • OFF MAP Holiday Inn Garibaldi – Via U. Bassi, 1/A • F1 starhotels Anderson – Piazza Luigi di Savoia, 20 • H1 centre stage with menus that stylishly update post-modern oasis featuring classic Mediterranean combination of traditional, international and fusion Antares Concorde – Viale , 132 • OFF MAP Hotel dei Cavalieri – Piazza Missori, 1 • F5 starhotels Echo – Viale A. Doria, 4 • H1 the classics of Italian cuisine featuring a light, fare updated with a contemporary twist. fare. Presentation, cooking and superb service all Antares – Via P. P. Rubens, 21 • A4 Idea Hotel Milano Bicocca – Via della Giustizia, 10/d • OFF MAP starhotels Ritz – Via L. Spallanzani, 40 • H3 innovative touch which is also expressed in the www.hotelthegray.it make it the ideal spot for a business lunch. Antica Locanda dei Mercanti – Via San Tomaso, 6 • F4 International Residence – Via G. Modena, 4 • H4 starhotels Rosa Grand – Piazza Fontana, 3 • F5 Ariosto – Viale L. Ariosto, 22 • D4 King – Corso Magenta, 19 • D4 straf – Via San Raffaele, 3• F4 presentation of his dishes. www.straf.it ATAHOTEL Contessa Jolanda Residence Leonardo da Vinci – Via Senigallia, 6 • OFF MAP Terminal – Via Ponte Seveso, 38 • OFF MAP www.hotelprincipedisavoia.com The restaurant at Milan’s Park Hyatt hotel is The Rubacuori Restaurant at Milan’s Hotel – Via G. Murat, 21 • OFF MAP Lloyd – Corso di Porta Romana, 48 • F5 The Hub – Via Privata Polonia, 10 • OFF MAP Delectable and eccentric, the Oltremare called Vun and carries the signature of starred Château Monfort combines taste with the ATAHOTEL Executive – Viale Don L. Sturzo, 45 • F2 Madison – Via L. Gasparotto, 8 • G1 Town House 12 – Piazza Gerusalemme, 12 • D2 restaurant (Hotel Boscolo Exedra) expresses an chef Andrea Apea - a sophisticated gastronomic sophisticated décor of its rooms, where diners will ATAHOTEL Expo Fiera – Via G. Keplero, 12 – (MI) • OFF MAP Maison Borella – Alzaia Naviglio Grande, 8 • E6 Town House 31 – Via C. Goldoni, 31 • H4 innovative concept of contemporary luxury experience that will surprise diners on account of be treated to delicious inventive dishes featuring ATAHOTEL Linea Uno Residence – Viale Monza, 139 • OFF MAP Maison Moschino – Viale Monte Grappa, 12/b • F2 Town House 33 – Via C. Goldoni, 33 • H4 melding subtle decor with the tastes and flavours its seasonal classics upgraded with an inventive classics cooked with an ingenious, innovative twist. ATAHOTEL Quark – Via Lampedusa, 11/A • OFF MAP Manzoni – Via Santo Spirito, 20 • G4 UNA Century – Via F. Filzi, 25/b • G2 that exude from the evocative open-plan kitchen twist. milano.park.hyatt.com www.hotelchateaumonfort.com ATAHOTEL The Big Residence – Via C. de Cristoforis, 6/8 • F2 Marriott – Via G. Washington, 66 • B5 UNA Cusani – Via Cusani, 13 • E4 and exclusive VIP dining room which only seats Atlantic – Via N. Torriani, 24 • G2 Mediolanum – Via M. Macchi, 1 • G2 UNA Maison – Via G. Mazzini, 4 • F5 Auriga – Via G.B. Pirelli, 7 • G2 Mercure – Piazza G. Oberdan, 12 • H3 UNA Malpensa – Via F. Turati, 84 16 guests. milano.boscolohotels.com Milano Hotel Scala’s Primadonna restaurant is The Restaurant “al V piano” (Grand Visconti Palace) B4 Milano – Via Stephenson, 55 • OFF MAP Michelangelo – Via D. Scarlatti, 33 • H1 – Cerro Maggiore (MI) • OFF MAP an innovative, elegant venue offering confident offers spectacular views of the city, accompanied Baviera Mokinba – Via P. Castaldi, 7 • G3 Mihotel – Via dei Fontanili, 56 • OFF MAP UNA Mediterraneo – Via G.B. Muratori, 14 • H6 A combination of style, elegance and renditions of traditional Milanese and Lombardy by chef Matteo Torretta’s multifaceted culinary Berna – Via N. Torriani, 18 • G2 Milano scala – Via dell’Orso, 7 • F4 UNA scandinavia – Via Fauché, 15 • C1 sophistication, the Armani/Ristorante perfectly cuisine with an underlying philosophy of sourcing creations. www.extrohotels.com Best Western Astoria – Viale Murillo, 9 • A3 Mini Hotel La spezia – Via La Spezia, 25 • OFF MAP UNA Tocq – Via A.De Tocqueville, 7/D • F2 mirrors the style that distinguishes all the wholly organic ingredients, carefully selected for The AlaCena restaurant at Milan’s Hotel Meliá Best Western Felice Casati – Via F. Casati, 18 • G2 Mini Hotel Portello – Via G. Silva, 12 • B2 Uptown Palace – Via Santa Sofia, 10 • F6 creations of this world-renowned designer. their freshness and quality. www.hotelmilanoscala.it offers a fusion of authentic Mediterranean, Spanish Best Western Galles – Piazza , 2 • H2 Mini Hotel Tiziano – Via Tiziano, 6 • C4 Vittoria – Via P. Calvi, 32 • H5 milan.armanihotels.com One of the most renowned restaurants in the and Italian fare featuring an unparalleled selection Best Western Major – Viale Isonzo, 2 • OFF MAP Mirage – Viale Certosa, 104/106 • OFF MAP WattTredici Hotel – Via G. Watt, 13 • OFF MAP Best Western Milton – Via E. Butti, 9 • OFF MAP Montebianco Mokinba – Via Monterosa,font cohin bold 90 • A2 Windsor Hotel Milano – Via G. Galilei, 2 • G2 Blending the old with the new, Il Baretto al city, the Casanova (The Westin Palace) offers a of meat and fish dishes. www.melia-milano.com logo nuovo_35x35.pdf 7-05-2008 21:36:47 Baglioni (Carlton Hotel Baglioni) has always skilful blend of traditional Lombard, Piedmont and been a landmark feature of Italian history. Today, Ligurian dishes embracing all the simplicity and Located in the heart of the city, the Petit Pierre ... & lUXUry italian Destinations Clefs d’Or Clefs d’Or in keeping with the fast evolving trends of this lightness of authentic Italian food. (Pierre Milano Hotel) offers a sublime array of only Clefs d’Or

“L o” in cooperation with e Chiavi d’Or modern-day metropolis, it is indubitably the www.casanova-restaurant-milan.com the finest Italian and Mediterranean cuisine. Associazione Lombarda perfect venue for business meetings, but not Nestling in the Milan’s quaint Brera district, the - COMO Portieri d’Albergo-Le Chiavi d’Oro only. www.baglionihotels.com The Manzoni Restaurant, set within the Style Lounge Bar & Restaurant (Hotel Milano Villa D'Este– Via Regina, 40 eponymous hotel, offers diners an intimate, Style) offers an attractive space where old red 22012 Cernobbio - CO • www.villadeste.it Surrounded by a magnificent garden, the elegant ambience and fine food complemented brickwork, dating back to the 1840s, melds with - COMO sANTA MARGHERITA - GENOVA luxurious, minimalist ambience of Ristorante by an excellent selection of fine wines. modern gold leaf coated interiors for an uber- Grand Hotel Menaggio – Via 4 Novembre, 69 Grand Hotel Miramare – Via Milite Ignoto, Bulgari (Bulgari Hotel Milano) serves as the www.hotelmanzoni.com sophisticated dining experience. www.stylehotel.eu 22017 Menaggio - CO • www.grandhotelmenaggio.com 16038 S.Margherita Ligure - GE • www.grandhotelmiramare.it ideal backdrop for a highly sought-after tasting GARDONE RIVIERA - BREsCIA sAN REMO - IMPERIA experience based on the creative cuisine of Head The Roses restaurant (Starhotel Rosa Grand) never Grand Hotel Fasano – Corso Giuseppe Zanardelli, 190 Royal – Corso Imperatrice, 80 18038 San Remo - IM • www.royalhotelsanremo.com Chef Andrea Ferrero. www.bulgarihotels.com disappoints and is the perfect spot for a delicious top aperitivo venues 25083 Gardone Riviera - BS • www.ghf.it dinner, a quick lunch or a mouth watering snack; -bulgari bar (Bulgari Hotel Milano), sIRMIONE - BREsCIA FINALE LIGURE - sAVONA L'Opéra (Hotel De la Ville) offers a modern take right next to it, overlooking Piazza Fontana, Via Privata Fratelli Gabba 7/b. T: 02 8058051. Villa Cortine – Via Grotte, 12 Punta Est – Via Aurelia, 1 17024 Finale Ligure - SV • www.puntaest.com on traditional cuisine that delights diners with is Tar.Tar, a "showroom" of taste featuring an www.bulgarihotels.com 25019 Sirmione - BS • www.hotelvillacortine.com a number of innovative, unexpected touches. array of different dishes that can be savoured -h club>diana (Sheraton Diana Majestic), PORTOFINO - GENOVA RAVELLO - sALERNO The kitchen stays open until late at night, thus throughout the day - from breakfast to an after- viale Piave, 42. T: 02 20581. Hotel splendido – Salita Baratta, 13 Caruso – Piazza San Giovanni del Toro, 5 84010 Ravello - SA • www.hotelcaruso.com making it an ideal spot for post-theatre dining. dinner snack. rosagrand.starhotels.com www.sheratondianamajestic.it 16034 Portofino - GE • www.hotelsplendido.com www.sinahotels.com -maison moschino, viale Monte Grappa, 12. RAPALLO - GENOVA sAINT MORITz - sVIzzERA Tradition, innovation and creativity are the To make your visit to Milan’s Galleria Vittorio T: 02 29009858. www.maisonmoschino.com Excelsior Palace – Via San Michele di Pagana, 8 Badrutt's Palace Hotel – Via Serlas, 27 7500 St. Moritz - Svizzera • www.badruttspalace.com underlying hallmark features of the culinary Emanuele II even more enjoyable, we suggest 16035 Rapallo - GE • www.thi.it Villa Cortine, sirmione Lake Garda (1.30 hours from Milan)

48 WHERE MILAN I NOVEMBER 2012 www.wheretraveler.com 49 Dining Entertainment

International & Ethnic Cuisine large, luminous restaurant. An oriental ambience this new venue. Its menu offers a delightful mix of with design undertones, the side window houses oriental flavours including traditional Cantonese alacena-melià—The best of Mediterranean the modern, Jade Café “noodle bar”, featuring cuisine or more piquant Thai food, boasting a cuisine and Spanish gastronomic tradition at this cocktails. In addition to traditional, mouth watering clever blend of spices and an array of sweet-and- restaurant located inside the Hotel Meliá. €€€. Asian fare it also offers real Cantonese cuisine, fish sour samplings. Open Tues-Sun 12am-3pm/7pm- World Opera Première www.melia-milano.com. Via Masaccio, 19. and seafood. Only the finest ingredients and the 12pm. www.sugarden.it. Via Carlo Tenca, 12. T: 02 Milan and Jerusalem united in music in a unique, T: 02 44406740. M1 . Map B2 freshest products, prepared in the stir-fry version, 36746363. M2-M3 Centrale FS, M3 Repubblica. innovative project: the staging of a “never-seen- on a hot griddle, steamed or with tofu. The best Map G2 denzel—One of the few truly Kosher restaurants in Chinese restaurant in Milan. Closed on Mon. €€. before” opera, la serenata al vento, scheduled Milan, serving an international fish and meat menu www.giardinodigiada.it. Via Palazzo Reale, 5. vietnamonamour—Located in a small, early of delicate contrast. Traditions of the Middle East, T: 02 8053891. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F5 twentieth century building, this is the best for performance on 1 december at bergamo’s America, Asia and South America are combined restaurant in Milan for Vietnamese cuisine. “Must teatro gaetano donizetti, conducted by Diego in delectable, tasty dishes, served against the hong kong—Chinese cuisine. An elegant, evocative try” dishes include crab soup with ginger, chicken backdrop of a warm, friendly, welcoming ambience. atmosphere boasting good food and impeccable cooked in an earthenware pot and fillet of sea Montrone (see photo). Composed by Aldo Finzi, It uses only the finest ingredients and rigorously service. Try the chef’s specialities like Kong Pao bream in lotus flower. Closed on Sun. €€€. www. a musician of Jewish origin and a victim follows the rules of Kashrut. Closed on Friday chicken, i.e. chicken pieces with nuts, chilli pepper vietnamonamour.com. Via A. Pestalozza, 7. T: 02 evening and on Sat. €€. www.denzel.it. Via G. and a special sweet soya-based sauce; the fish dishes; 70634614. M2 Piola. Map I2 of the discriminatory racial laws of 1938, Washington, 9. T: 02 48519326. M1 Wagner. Map C4 Pekinese, Cantonese and smoked duck and rice staging of the opera has been made puffs for dessert. Closed on Mon at lunch. €€. Via G. zero contemporarY Food—A true culinary el porteno—Possibly the best Argentinean Schiaparelli, 5. T: 02 6701992. M3 Sondrio. Off Map temple dedicated to Sushi enthusiasts, it is the possible thanks to the cooperation restaurant in Milan, El Porteno is renowned for its brainchild of authentic Japanese chef, Hide between institutions and succulent meat and churrasco cuts. Exquisite dishes re salomone—Located in the heart of Milan, this Shinohara and two Milanese Japanese foodies. offered by chefs focusing primarily on tradition restaurant offers typically Jewish fare together with Shinohara’s passion for all things Italian prompted important musical organizations and high-quality ingredients, house specialities inc an excellent selection of Israeli wines. Its stylish, his decision to move to Milan where he found asado criollo, grilled beef, pork and veal, empanadas low-key interior is the ideal place for an evening fertile ground for his creativity. His cuisine who have actively involved young and pollo en escabeche. Also offers a fabulous featuring top-level Middle-Eastern cuisine. “Must-try” encompasses a delightful all-round mix of a wide musicians of different ethnic selection of important wines including Argentinean dishes include falafel, tasty kubbe and an assortment range of different ingredients and new, unusual specialities such as Malbec and Torrontes. Open for of expertly cooked, fresh fish. Closed on Fri and Sat food pairings, including truffles, caviar and foie backgrounds from both . dinner. €€€. www.elporteno.it. Viale G. Galeazzo, 25. lunch. €€. www.resalomone.eu. Via Sardegna, 45. gras, but also excellent dishes based on the best T: 02 58437593. Map F6 T: 02 4694643. M1 Wagner. Map B5 Japanese tradition. Open Mon-Sat for dinner only; Teatro Gaetano Donizetti (Bergamo), take aways available from 6.30pm to 1pm. €€. www. piazza Cavour, 15 - at 8.30pm. giardino di giada (il)—Experience and su garden—A gorgeous, stylishly illuminated zeromagenta.it. Corso Magenta, 87. T: 02 45474733. For information and bookings T: 035 4160602 impeccable service are the strong points of this wooden veranda acts as the romantic backdrop to M1 Conciliazione. Map D4 www.serenatalvento.org

Advertorial For more detailed listings, please see famous original sign has been designed by the Guidelines www.wheretraveler.com master Ugo Nespolo. A place where visitors can experience a true Campari “full immersion”. Open This directory, grouped by category, is a list of Tues-Sun 7am-8.30pm. www.camparino.it. Galleria establishments recommended by the editors La Malmaison, Vittorio Emanuele II corner of Piazza Duomo. of Where Magazine and includes regular Aperitivo T: 02 86464435. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4 advertisers. timeless charm map locations 10 corso como caFé—Lounge bar (with adjoining conti caFé—This small cosy café-restaurant Note that references in bold at the end restaurant) located inside a vast complex dedicated and lounge bar is located in the courtyard of of each listing (a1, b5 etc) refer to the to shopping and entertainment (art, fashion a prestigious location in via Montenapoleone. coordinates on the street maps on pages and design) founded in 1990 by the publisher Here you can taste and purchase not only 62-63. Its name is reminiscent of Napoleone Bonaparte’s favourite dwelling, and gallerist Carla Sozzani. Open Mon 6pm-1am; confetti (sugared almonds), cakes, chocolates Tues-Fri 12pm-1am; Sat 11pm-2am; Sun 11pm-1am. and tea and coffee blends but also raw fish, caviar inFormation a country home, not far from Paris to which the Emperor loved to www.10corsocomo.com. Corso Como, 10. and Mediterranean-style pasta dishes. Open Several venues offering food are included in T: 02 29013581. M2 Garibaldi FS. Map F2 Mon-Sat 8am-11pm; Sun 10am-11pm. Aperitivo this section. These are considered as meeting retreat. This exclusive Milanese restaurant still retains all the charm 6.30pm-11pm. Dj set with aperitivo on Wed. Via places rather than gourmet addresses and bar straF—The street bar of the Straf design hotel Montenapoleone, 19. T: 02 76394934. M1 San Babila, thus explain our decision to list them here and romantic aura of this glorious past offering diners an elegant, in the heart of Milan. The bar echoes the basic M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 rather than under Dining. Most major theatre materials used inside the hotel, such as concrete productions are listed here, together with a unforgettable experience. The venue serves an array of highly sought- walls and floors, although here the interior designer cova—Founded in 1817, by none other than one of list of other entertainment. Since programme Vincenzo De Cotiis has created a sort of spatial ’s soldiers. Thanks to its strategic position, in times are subject to change (often on a daily after dishes (mainly fish) which can be savoured by candlelight in an overwriting by using a hyper-decorative style. Open the heart of the Quadrilatero della moda, this venue basis) it is impossible to list all of them here. daily from 9am to midnight (Sat-Sun 11-midnight); is a true Milanese classic. Established as a pasticceria, We therefore suggest that you double- ambience of pure sophistication. Open Mon-Sun 8pm-12pm (make sure aperitivo 6pm-10pm. Live music on Tues from 6pm, it also offers a house aperitivo: an infusion of herbs check details regarding specific programme dj set on Thurs-Fri. www.straf.it. Via San Raffaele, 3. and flowers based on a secret recipe. Open 7.45am times. Major events can be found in the to book ahead even for lunch). T: 02 80508715. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4 to 8.30pm. Also lunch noon-2pm and aperitivo from “Where Now” section. Open-air markets are 6pm. www.pasticceriacova.it. Via Montenapoleone, an excellent opportunity not only to make camparino in galleria—One century after it 8. T: 02 76005599. M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 purchases but also to acquaint visitors with was first opened, Camparino - historically known the folklore of the city or indulge in VIP as the “bar of the Campari brand” - has returned to cubo—An elegant cube-shaped glass greenhouse, watching. For this reason, we have listed them its original spot in the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele overlooking a charming English-style garden, here rather than under “Shopping”. All details La Malmaison II. In the early 20th century it was a meeting place located in the heart of the trendy Brera district. This are correct at the time of going to press but Romantic atmospheres – Stylish La Malmaison is the perfect venue for a times can, and do, change. Always ask your Via Comune Antico, 27 for musicians, artists and men of learning, and the stylish complex houses the Bookshop & Caffetteria special occasion to be shared with your “significant other”- possibly in one of place that gave birth to the tradition of the Milanese degli Atellani, the ideal spot for a drink, a business concierge to double-check all details. T: 02 67101302 the restaurant’s 4 exclusive private dining areas - but also the ideal place for a aperitivo. The new modern interpretation of the lunch, a dinner, or a special event. The Caffetteria www.lamalmaison.it. business lunch that is bound to impress your partners.

Where Was Founded in 1936 in Detroit to provide information on the city to executives travelling in the heyday of the auto industry’s expansion.

50 WHERE MILAN I NOVEMBER 2012 www.wheretraveler.com 51 Entertainment Entertainment

Jamaica—One hundred years after its establishment, sant’ambroeus—A traditional meeting place, Tips from the Publisher combines tradition with contemporary since 1936, just a few steps away from the art. Formerly a favorite haunt of artists and poets Teatro alla Scala. The aperitivo spread includes , A “not-to.be-missed” event, if only to judge of optimism and that part of our beings Until 17 February, such as Giuseppe Ungaretti, Salvatore Quasimodo, international cocktails and delicious appetizers Alessandro Francesco Tommaso Manzoni, Fernando based on the theme of the day: oysters, salmon or Temple of Football the controversies sparked in every part that we refer to as the “soul”, or rather 2013. Open Mon- Sun 10am-8pm; Fontana, beat generation poet Allen Ginsberg and Parma ham. Open daily 8am-1am. Aperitivo from of the globe where the exhibition Body that which is intangible and which makes Thurs and Sat photographer Ugo Mulas, Jamaica today hosts 5.30pm to 20.30pm. www.santambroeusmilano. Named after the famous Milanese footballer World has debuted, attracting thousands the human race unique. Finally, when 10am-11pm. photographic exhibitions and cultural events it. Corso G. Matteotti, 7. T: 02 76000540. M1 San Giuseppe Meazza, the Giuseppe Meazza accompanied by an “aperitivo” in an atmosphere that Babila. Map G4 Stadium (San Siro) is the largest stadium of visitors. Whole bodies, individual organs faced with the incredible marvels and continues to retain the intellectual appeal of years in Italy and the third in Europe. All seats are and transparent body slices preserved unimaginable complexity of this perfect gone by. Evening entertainment continues at the trussardi caFé—Located on the ground floor covered in this three-tiered structure which through a remarkable process known as machine which is the human body, you Jamaica restaurant, which is only open for dinner. of Palazzo Trussardi in Piazza della Scala and run has a capacity of 80,074 and is the home Open daily 9.30am-2am; Restaurant on Wed-Thurs- by the chef, Andrea Berton, this is the ideal place stadium of two of the three most successful “Plastination”, a procedure patented by will find yourselves asking questions that Sat. www.jamaicabar.it. Via Brera, 32. T: 02 876723. for those more relaxed moments. Complete with Italian Football League clubs: A.C. Milan and German scientist Gunther von Hagens in transcend any possible representation, M2 Lanza. Map F3 an outdoor area and a vertical garden, it provides F.C. Internazionale (Inter). It also has a gift 1977. In Milan, the exhibition is hosted at causing you to enter into a retrospective an eco-sustainable backdrop for trendy aperitivi. shop (T: 02 4046430) and a museum ( T: 02 pasticceria biFFi—A pasticceria established Open Mon-Fri 7.30am-11pm; Sat noon-11pm. 4042432) displaying all kinds of historic items the Fabbrica del Vapore, a spectacular dimension that might help you to in 1847, its name is linked to the invention of www.trussardi.it/trussardi_cafe. Piazza della Scala, from both Milan’s and Inter’s past: old jerseys, display area, formerly used as an industrial understand the part played by each and “panettone”, the famous Milanese Christmas 5. T: 02 80688295. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F5 photos, boots, tickets and a fabulous trophy warehouse for the repair of trains and every one of us in the destiny of the entire cake, exported throughout the world. A taste case. However, even better than the museum of old Milan: quality and impeccable service. In is the guided stadium tour which gives you a trams. The Body World exhibition can human race. When examining the smallest the late afternoon, it serves traditional aperitivi Concert Venues & Theatres chance to sit in VIP seats and visit each of the be interpreted in a number of different bone in the body for the first time (i.e. one accompanied by a buffet. Open every day from home teams’ locker rooms. In summer it also ways: the first, and most obvious, is for of those that enables us to hear), you will 6.30am to 8.30pm. www.biffipasticceria.it. Corso auditorium di milano Fondazione cariplo— hosts important concerts. www.sansiro.net. Magenta, 87. T: 02 48006702. M1 Conciliazione. Inaugurated in October, 1999, the Auditorium is one Piazzale A. Moratti. M1 Lotto. educational purposes. In fact, no other realize just to what extent each one of us, Map D4 of Milan’s premier concert halls (boasting a seating instrument in the world allows for full as simple as our existences might be, is part capacity of 1,400) and home to the immersion into the realms of the human of a larger design. (A.J.) roialto—A spacious, elegant bar-restaurant, Symphonic Orchestra and Milan Chorus. It also distinguished by several buffets counters and a wide acts as a venue for visiting international jazz acts, blue note—A branch of the famous New York, body! Conversely, the second is a Fabbrica del Vapore, via Procaccini 4. selection of cocktails. Aperitivo from 6pm to 10am. symphony concerts and chamber music. Tokyo and Nagoya venues, this is the new reflection on our lifestyles, the importance T: 02 313499. www.bodyworlds.it Closed on Mon. www.roialtogroup.it. Via Piero della www.laverdi.org. Largo G. Mahler. T: 02 83389401. temple of Milanese jazz and features world-class Francesca, 55. T: 02 34936616. Map C1 Map E7 performers and big-names on the International Photos De Luna Photos

offers a vast selection of fine Italian wines serving as the perfect accompaniment to light delectable menus. Open Monday-Friday 12am-6pm. www. atellani.it. Via della Moscova, 28. Bookshop T: 02 This month will see the continuation of the intense program of 36535957; Caffetteria T: 02 36535959. M2 Moscova, the 2012-2013 season of Milan’s “Giuseppe Verdi” Symphonic M3 Turati. Map F3 Orchestra; all concerts on the calendar will be held at Milan’s Largo Mahler-based Auditorium di Milano Fondazione Cariplo. deseo—This elegant lounge-restaurant is situated just www.laverdi.org a few metres from the Arco della Pace. Boasting a sophisticated setting, it offers delicious cocktails and a rich buffet. It also has a small tobacconist’s counter for the joy of smokers. Aperitivo from 5.30pm to 9.30pm. Corso Sempione, 2. T: 02 315164. Map D3

NoVeMBeR ■ Symphonic Season 29, 30 november 1, 2, 3 november helmuth rilling, conductor el tombon de san marc—This historic Milanese zhang xian, conductor Music by J. Brahms, F. Schubert, establishment was opened in 1963, in the Music by Verdi F. Mendelssohn picturesque Brera district. A restaurant and American bar, it serves typical Milanese fare until 11pm. 8, 9 11 november ■ "Crescendo in Musica" Aperitivo served from 6pm. Via San Marco, 20. T: 02 6599507. M2 Moscova, M3 Turati. Map F3 andrea pestalozza, conductor 10 november

emanuele piemonti, carlotta lusa, "Tutti a caccia del lupo" Fashion caFé—An architectural project based on alfonso alberti piano bustric actor a “home experience”, but also a hot favourite with michele marelli basset horn marcello bufalini, industrial magnates, models and young upmarket Music by M. Stroppa, N. Castiglioni, conductor Milanese trend-setters. Open Mon-Fri from 7am to G. Mahler Music by S. Prokof'ef 2am; Sat 8.30am-2am; Sun 10am-2am. Aperitivo from 6pm to 9.30pm. After dinner dj set on Thurs-Sun. 15, 16, 18 november 24 november www.fashioncafe.it. Via San Marco, 1. ruben Jais, conductor "Impariamo a colpire le percussioni" T: 02 6572021. M2 Lanza, M2 Moscova. Map F3 Music by G.F. Haendel ivan Fossati narrator globe—An elegant lounge bar and restaurant with a panoramic terrace on the 8th floor of Coin, one of 22, 23, 25 november the city’s best-stocked and trendiest department oleg caetani, conductor stores. The aperitivo comes with a rustic buffet inc Music by L. , D. Sostakovic cold cuts and cheeses but also platters of select raw fish and upmarket wines. Open daily 11.30am-2am, aperitivo from 6.30pm to 9.30pm. www.globeinmilano.it. Piazza Cinque Giornate, 1. T: 02 55181969. Map H5

52 WHERE MILAN I NOVEMBER 2012 www.wheretraveler.com 53 Entertainment

music scene. True to tradition, it hosts two over 280 performances by playwrights of the calibre tam/teatro degli arcimboldi—Inaugurated shows a night (at 9pm and 11.30pm, with dining of Shakespeare, Goldoni, Brecht, Cechov, Pirandello in 2002, for three years it acted as Milan’s main option). Tickets only valid for one show. www. and . www.piccoloteatro.org. Largo M. Greppi, opera venue while the historic Teatro alla Scala bluenotemilano.it. Via P. Borsieri, 37. T: 02 69016888. 1. T:848.800.304. T: 02 42411889. M2 Lanza. Map E3 was being restored and restructured. Boasting M3 Zara. Off Map a seating capacity of 2,400, it currently hosts a magazzini generali – A former, early 20th century variety of concerts ranging from classical music giuseppe verdi music conservatorY—Founded warehouse located on two levels. Its main floor, to rock and pop but also festivals, performances in 1808, this Conservatory is another of Milan’s most extending over a 1000 sq.m. area, features a bar, a and TV shows. www.teatroarcimboldi.it. Viale illustrious venues for classical concerts and also dance floor and a stage. It hosts gigs, DJ sets directly dell’Innovazione, 1. T: 02 641142200. Off Map offers a wide range of courses and cultural activities from London rave parties and concerts dedicated (masterclasses, seminars, performances, etc.). Many mainly to avant-garde sounds from the electro-pop teatro alla scala—For over two centuries, famous Italian musicians studied here – although world. Open on Wed (free entrance), Fri and Sat a hallowed temple of Milanese music and oddly enough, the young Giuseppe Verdi was (admission around €20 ). www.magazzinigenerali.it. opera. Designed by Giuseppe Piermarini and rejected. There are two concert halls: the smaller Sala Via Pietrasanta, 14. T: 02 5393948. Off Map inaugurated in 1778, it was recently totally Puccini for chamber music and the bigger Sala Verdi refurbished under the supervision of the for symphonic and choral music. www.consmilano.it. scimmie—An historic concert venue in the Naviglio renowned architect, Mario Botta. Today the Via Conservatorio, 12. T: 02 762110. Pavese district. Though formerly only catering to theatre is recognized as one of the leading M1 San Babila. Map G4 jazz, it now also offers a variety of concerts featuring opera and ballet theatres in the world and offers different types of musical genres performed by seasonal events including choral and orchestral piccolo teatro di milano/teatro strehler— emerging Italian talents or famous International works. Out-of-season events are also often Founded in 1947 by director, Giorgio Strehler and stars. Drinks are available at the bar and club organized by private institutions and foundations. impresario, Paolo Grassi, it was the first Italian Theatre restaurant. It also has an outdoor space in summer. www.teatroallascala.org. Piazza della Scala (Ticket Company to offer a “mixed” repertoire (international www.scimmie.it. Via A. Sforza, 49. Office Via Filodrammatici, 2). and Italian). Over the past 60 years it has produced T: 02 89402874. Map E7 T: 02 88791. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4

Gambling & Casinos

A few not-to-be-missed opportunities for those who love gambling and betting. Here are some of the most interesting locations both in Milan and “out of town”... good luck!

WincitY—Set within the heart of Milan, the new Wincity concept offers not only some hundred different games, including the latest generation slot machines, video lotteries and an automatic roulette system, but also tasting events with live music. This entertainment venue houses a restaurant serving typical Italian cuisine and a lounge bar. An innovative touch is the presence of a Personal Player to assist customers and outline play procedures and methods. Smokers’ area available. Open daily 8am-2am.Torre Martini, piazza A. Diaz, 7. T: 02 99297302. M1-M3 Duomo. www.sisalwincity.it the canal grande in venice, casinò di venezia—This magical lagoon city hosts one of the oldest gaming houses in the only two hours from milan world. Inaugurated in 1638, since its inception, the Casinò di Venezia has always drawn an international crowd. Check out the unmatched luxury, sumptuous ambience, live entertainment and non-stop gaming experience against the casino de la vallée—The small town of Saint Fri-Sat 12am–5am. Via Stauffacher, 1 - Lugano spectacular backdrop of one of Italy’s most Vincent, home to the famous casino since 1947, is (Switzerland). About 70km from Milan. T:+41 beautiful cities. Open daily 11am-3am. Ca’ set within the magnificent mountainous region of 919737111. www.casinolugano.ch Vendramin Calergi - Cannaregio 2040. T: 041 the Valle d’Aosta, a well-known tourist destination casino municipale di campione d’italia— 5297111. www.casinovenezia.it for weekends and holiday breaks. In addition to all Though existing outside of its fatherland, this casinò di sanremo—Built way back in 1905, the main games, it also offers a rich events calendar. tiny piece of Italian soil, located in Switzerland, the building housing the casino is a magnificent Open Sun-Fri 10.30am-3am; Sat 10.30am-4am. Via I. is home to Europe’s largest Casino and can example of Sanremo’s famed Belle Epoque Mus, 1 - Saint-Vincent (Aosta). T: 0166 5221. be reached in just under an hour from the style. Its elegant interiors and décor offer www.casinodelavallee.it centre of Milan. Its beautiful new headquarters, visitors a unique ambience in which to spend casino di lugano—The third largest Swiss financial designed by architect Mario Botta, are set unforgettable moments thanks to the wide market and an important tourist hub, Lugano is within an elegant, international ambience. The array of gaming options on offer including home to the famous casino nestling on the banks casino offers roulette, chemin de fer, baccarat, French and American games and slot machines. of Lake Lugano, which, this year, will be celebrating black jack, poker and slot machines. It also has Aside from the casino, guests can also relax at its 100th anniversary. Defined as a “play boutique” two in-house restaurants. Open Sun 10.30pm- the Roof Garden restaurant featuring a romantic on account of its stylish, alluring atmosphere, it 5am; Mon-Thurs 11.30pm-5am; Fri 11.30pm-6am; panoramic terrace. Open Sun-Thurs 10am- operates an all-games casino for an unlimited Sat 10.30pm-6am. Piazzale Milano, 2 - Campione 2.30am; Fri-10am-3am; Sat 10am-3.30am. Corso number of tables and slot machines. Restaurant with d’Italia (CO). T: +41 916401111 (free phone). About degli Inglesi, 18. T: 0184 5951. panoramic terrace, offering a special business lunch 70 km from Milan. www.casinosanremo.it menu during the day. Open Sun-Thurs 12am-4am. www.casinocampione.it

www.wheretraveler.com 55 Museums & Attractions Museums & Attractions

www.acquariocivicomilano.eu. Viale G. Gadio, 2. housed in two historic buildings overlooking 007 Back in Milan: Guidelines T: 02 88465750. M2 Lanza. Map e4 Milan’s elegant via Manzoni and host masterpieces This directory, grouped by category, is a list of of 19th century Italian art from the collections of Art at Her Majesty's establishments recommended by the editors amBroSiana PictUre GallerY—The “Ambrosiana” Fondazione Cariplo and Intesa Sanpaolo: the opulent of Where Magazine and includes regular contains several exquisite works of art from the 15th Neo-classical rooms of and Service advertisers. through 17th centuries and includes “The musician”, the 19th century . Open: Tues-Sun James Bond, the most famous attributed to Leonardo, Raphael’s cartoon for the 9.30am-7.30pm. Thurs 9.30am-10.30pm. Closed maP locationS “School of Athens” fresco and Caravaggio’s “Basket of on Monday. Free admission until opening of the British secret service agent, debuts Note that references in BolD at the end fruit”. The Ambrosiana will be exhibiting Leonardo’s section dedicated to 20th century works (late 2012). of each listing (a1, B5 etc) refer to the entire “Codice Atlantico” (Atlantic Codex) until www.gallerieditalia.com. Via Manzoni, 10. For info in Milan from 7 November with coordinates on the street maps on pages 2015, 44 or 45 pages at a time for three months at a and reservations (advisable for groups) call toll-free the exhibition “007, New Bond 62-63. stretch—the longest the International archival norms number 800.167.619. M1-M3 Duomo, inFormation will allow such documents to be exposed to light. M3 Montenapoleone. map F4 Street”. Twenty three eclectic Places like the Duomo or the Last Supper are Open Tues-Sun 9am-7pm. Admission fee €15, €10 for artists, of different generations, symbols of Milan, hence our decision to list the adjacent Bramante Sacristy, €20 for group tickets. mUSeo Del 900—One of the youngest museums in them under a separate category. www.ambrosiana.it. Piazza Pio XI, 2. T: 02 806921. the city, lying adjacent to the Duomo, hosts more decided to pay tribute to this M1-M3 Duomo. Map F5 than 400 20th century masterpieces of Italian and famous personality and the city of international art - ranging from Fontana to Picasso Galleria D’arte moDerna—Boasting 2,700 - at the recently refurbished Palazzo dell'Arengario. London, with paintings, installations, JewiSh milan-The Central Synagogue, inaugurated paintings and 700 sculptures, this Galleria A building where works of art interact with the city, sculptures, designs, maps, objects in 1892, is the headquarter of the central rabbinate inaugurated in 1921 is above all a “nineteenth engaging with the past while looking towards the and follows the so-called “Italian ritual”. Guided Tours century museum” hosting mainly Italian and future. Where tip a sight of piazza Duomo and a movie clip montage selected in English can booked by telephoning 393 9742284 French works of art. Set against the beautifully from the "Sala Fontana". Mon. 2.30pm-7.30pm; or sending an e-mail to info@sinagogamilano. elegant backdrop of the Villa Reale, with its Tues-Wed-Fri and Sun 9.30am-7.30pm; Thurs-Sat from among the numerous films it. Sinagoga Centrale, via della Guastalla, 19. www. magnificent English garden. Open daily 9am- 9.30am-10.30pm. www.museodelnovecento.org. dedicated to him. Open Mon-Sat sinagogamilano.it. maP G5 • Holocaust Memorial at 1pm/2pm-5.30pm. Closed on Mondays. Free Palazzo dell'Arengario. Via Marconi, 1. T: 02 88444061. the Central Railway Station, via F. Aporti. Open on admission. www.comune.milano.it. Via Palestro, M1-M3 Duomo. Map F5 3.30pm-7.30pm. request. maP h1 16. T: 02 76340809 (10am-noon/3pm-4pm). M1 Palestro, M3 Turati. Map G3 mUSeo Della Scienza e Della tecnoloGia- Galleria Federica Ghizzoni naviGli—The “Navigli” are artificial canals built 800 leonarDo Da vinci—Found in a 16th century via Cagnola, 26. T: 02 33105921. years ago to ferry people and merchandise to Gallerie D'italia-Piazza Scala—Recently monastery, this is one of the most important www.federicaghizzoni.it Milan, to irrigate the fields and to defend the city. inaugurated, the Gallerie d’Italia-Piazza Scala are museums of science and technology in the The network of canals was perfected in 1457 by Leonardo da Vinci. Today, the area, bursting with trendy dining and nightlife spots, is one of the main hubs of the Milanese movida. M2 Porta Genova FS. SPOTLIGHT Map e6-D7

Sant’amBroGio—One of the most ancient churches in Milan, it was built by St For more detailed listings, please see also hosts a number of interesting galleries and www.cenacolovinciano.net. Piazza Santa Maria delle (patron of the city) in 379-386 A.D., in an area www.wheretraveler.com antique shops. One of the areas in the city is Grazie, 2. T: 02 92800360. M1-M2 Cadorna FN, M1 where numerous martyrs had been buried. The particularly known for its nightlife. Pubs, window Conciliazione. Map D4 church is a wonderful example of Romanesque displays, stalls and quaint fortune tellers meld style. Open daily 9.30am-12.30am/2.30pm- with important places of culture. For museums in cimitero monUmentale (monUmental 6pm (Sun 3pm-pm). Admission free. www. Monuments & Places of Interest Brera, see “Entertainment” section. Via Brera and cemeterY)—A real outdoor museum catering, santambrogio-basilica.it. Piazza Sant’Ambrogio, 15. surrounding areas. M2 Lanza. Map F3 on the one hand, to the whims of the elite of T: 02 86450895 (10am-noon/4pm-6 pm). DUomo catheDral—Among one of the most Milan’s society and, on the other, to works of art M2 Sant’Ambrogio. Map D5 important (and majestic) Gothic buildings in the caStello SForzeSco—The ancient seat of the by famous sculptors of various eras. Among the world, the church, constructed on and off over a ruling Visconti, it was later rebuilt by Francesco notables buried here are Alessandro Manzoni Scala (la)—The world’s premier opera house, built period of 450 years (begun 1386) is the symbol of Sforza and is now simply know by the Milanese and Arturo Toscanini. Open Tues-Sun from 8am- at the behest of Empress Maria Teresa of Milan. Built in the shape of a Latin cross, the cathedral as “Il Castello”. Demolished and reconstructed 6pm. Piazzale Cimitero Monumentale. and designed by Piermarini, it was inaugurated in is divided by soaring pillars into five naves, the largest several times from 1300 onwards, it has served as T: 02 88465600. M2 Garibaldi FS. Map D1-e1 1778 with an opera by Antonio Salieri. For more of which measures 45 metres in height. It has 135 the backdrop for numerous historic events. Today, information, also see “Entertainment”. www. spires and its inside columns measure 3 and a half it houses a number of interesting museums and Galleria vittorio emanUele ii—Sometimes teatroallascala.org. Piazza della Scala. T: 02 72003744. metres in diameter. To experience the Duomo at its libraries. Its park is a favourite with old and young known as “the living-room of the Milanese”, this Open daily 9am-6pm. Closed on November 1. most majestic you must ascend to the roof (either by alike. Where tip ask for the walls tour. elegant, four-storey arcade, housing luxury cafés M1-M3 Duomo; M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4 elevator or by steps) where you will be surrounded Castle: open daily 7am-6pm. Free admission. and famous designer shops, is covered by a glass by an outburst of pinnacles, turrets and marble Castle Museums: Tues through Sunday 9am- barrel vault and a beautiful glass cupola and statuary and, naturally, the city’s famed golden 5.30pm. Full ticket €3. www.milanocastello.it. measures 196 metres in length. Tradition has it that Museums Madonnina. The cathedral is open daily 8.30am- Piazza Castello, 1. T: 02 88463700. M1-M2 Cadorna placing your right heel on the bull, depicted in the 6.45pm. Admission free. For guided tours and private FN; M1 Cairoli; M2 Lanza. Map e4 mosaic on the floor, and then spinning around acQUario Di milano—Housed in a splendid visits: [email protected]. Info point via inside it, will bring good luck. Piazza Duomo- Liberty-style building, it is one of the largest and Arcivescovado, 1 (open 9am-noon/1pm-6pm). cenacolo—One of the most famous attractions Piazza della Scala. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F5 oldest of its kind in Italy. Established in 1906 and The Last Supper www.duomomilano.it. Piazza Duomo. in the world, “L’Ultima Cena” or “Cenacolo” by restructured in 2006, it hosts 36 gigantic pools filled One of the most famous attractions in the world, “l’Ultima T: 02 72023375. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F5 Leonardo da Vinci is a 15th century large mural GiUSePPe meazza StaDiUm (also known as San with more than 100 species of fish, living in recreated cena” or “Cenacolo” by Leonardo da Vinci is a large 15th century painting representing the scene of the last supper Siro)—The famous Milan football stadium, home to environments ranging from the Amazon to the Brera—Home, since 1776, to an important of Jesus narrated in the Gospel. It can be found Inter and AC Milan, was inaugurated in 1926. It was Mediterranean. The main focus of the pools is more mural paintig representing the scene of the last supper of Jesus Academy of Fine Arts, this is an artsy in the church of Santa Maria delle Grazie. Tues to completely renovated in 1990. For stadium events, towards native Italian fish, both fresh and saltwater, neighbourhood which really comes to life at Sun 8.15am-7pm. English guided tour 9.30am and see section on “Entertainment”. www.sansiro.net. Via and plenty of exotic sea life from other continents. narrated in the Gospel. It can be found in the church of Santa night. In addition to several churches, the district 3.30pm. Reservation compulsory. Full ticket €6.50. dei Piccolomini, 5. T: 02 4042432. M1 Lotto. off Map The aquarium hosts events whole suitable for the Maria delle Grazie. Booking required: ask your concierge. family and the library is one of the most important resources for marine biology and oceanic studies in www.cenacolovinciano.net. www.wheremilan.com: your free update on shows and events in Milan! D'INGHILTERRA GIUSEPPE VENEZIANO, ELISABETTA

© Italy. Open Tues-Sun 9am-1pm/2pm-5.30pm.

56 WHERE MILAN I NOVEMBER 2012 www.wheretraveler.com 57 Museums & Attractions

world. Its collections, featuring cars, aircraft, mUSeo DioceSano—This museum of religious Pac-PaDiGlione Di arte contemPoranea— ships, scooters, trains, reconstructions of ancient arts, whose new headquarters were inaugurated Completed in 1996, this 1,200 sq.m. space is the workshops for metalworking, clock-making right in 2001, hosts 600 works dating back to the most important exhibition centre for contemporary through to electronics, and astronomy, 4th century A.D. By maximizing their historic art in Milan, boasting a garden area for sculptures, a explore the relationship between men and and religious meanings, it preserves and raised floor for paintings and a balcony for photos machines starting from the ingenious inventions promotes the valuable art treasures belonging and graphic works. Fully accessible by the disabled. of the world famous Leonardo da Vinci who lived to the “Diocese”, with smaller pieces collected Opening hours and ticket prices vary according to in Milan between 1482 and 1500. Open Wed, from Church museums and treasuries across the exhibition on show. www.comune.milano.it.Via Thurs, Fri 10am-5.30pm; Sat, Sun and Holidays Lombardy. Open Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. Palestro, 14. T: 02 88446359/360. M1 Palestro, M3 10am-6.30pm. Full ticket price €8 + Guided tour Full ticket price €8 (€4 on Tuesdays). www. Turati. Map G3 inside the Enrico Toti submarine €10. www. museodiocesano.it. Corso di Porta Ticinese, 95. museoscienza.org. Via San Vittore, 21. T: 02 T: 02 89420019. Map e7 Palazzo moranDo-coStUme moDa 48555558. M2 Sant’Ambrogio. Map D5 immaGine —To celebrate the capital of fashion, mUSeo teatrale alla Scala—Founded in Palazzo Morando shows Milanese women’s mUSeo Di Storia natUrale—Home to valuable 1913, it is one of the top visitor places in the city. dress styles between the end of the 19th mineral, botanical and zoological collections. It is dedicated to the history of the famous Milan century and the beginning of the 20th century. Highlights include a large fossil collection, Opera House with a vast collection of musical The magnificent rooms of this 18th century reconstructions of extinct animals and dioramas instruments and documents dedicated to famous “palazzo,” located in the Quadrilatero della Moda, with stuffed animals shown in their natural musicians, including Verdi and Toscanini. Visitors are definitely imbued with a touch of style. habitats originating both from Europe and can look into the theatre, provided there are no Where tip best short visit program to other exotic places. It contains the only dinosaur rehearsals, or admire the “machine” that gives stage know Milan history through paintings. skeleton existing in Italy. Where tip magical directions. Open Mon-Sun (except holidays) 9am- Open Tues-Sun 9am-1pm/2pm-5.30pm. www. for children of all ages. Open Tues-Sun 9am- 12.30am/1.30pm-5.30pm. Full price ticket €5. costumemodaimmagine.mi.it. Via Sant’Andrea, 6. 5.30pm. Full price ticket €3 (free admission on www.museodimilano.mi.it. Largo A. Ghiringhelli, 1 T: 02 88465933. M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 Friday afternoon). www.comune.milano.it. Corso corner of Piazza della Scala. T: 02 88792473/7423. Venezia, 55. T: 02 88463280. M1 Palestro. Map h3 M1-M3 Duomo; M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4 Palazzo reale—Formerly the residence of all those who governed Milan, from Napoleon to the Royal House of Savoy, the Royal Palace is currently one of the most important cultural centres in the city, SPOTLIGHT hosting exhibitions of international renown. Opening hours vary according to the exhibition on show. www.comune.milano.it. Piazza Duomo, 12. T: 02 875672. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F5

Pinacoteca Di Brera—The Brera Art Gallery is one of the most important museums in Milan. Its permanent collections offer a wealth of exceptionally good Italian and foreign masterpieces including Mantegna’s “Dead Christ”, Raphael’s “Marriage of the Virgin”, Caravaggio’s “Supper at Emmaus” and, for a little light relief, “The Kiss” by Hayez. Open Tues-Sun 8.30am-7.15pm. Full ticket price €11. www.brera. beniculturali.it. Via Brera, 28. T: 02 722631. M2 Lanza, M3 Montenapoleone. Map F3

triennale DeSiGn mUSeUm— The is one of the most vibrant, popular and important exhibition centres in the city. Featuring annually changing exhibitions of note, it also owns the most important permanent collection of design works. This fantastic museum is brimming with endless installations originating from brilliant minds all over the world. It has a superb media library on design, art and architecture. In 2006, in y SIAE 2012 addition to the historic headquarters, a branch was

also opened in the emerging district. Open B It's Picasso Time Tues-Sun 10.30am-8.30pm; Thurs-Fri 10.30am- Ic 11pm. www.triennale.it. Viale E. Alemagna, 6. Paintings, sculptures, photographs and films tell the story of T: 02 724341. M1-M2 Cadorna FN. Map D3

one of the most influential artists of the 20th century: Pablo ccESSION P villa necchi camPiGlio—Constructed between Picasso. For the third time running, Palazzo Reale is hosting 1932 and 1935 by the Milanese architect Piero again an exhibition dedicated to the Spanish master, a vast Portaluppi, it has survived completely intact, both outside with its ample yard, tennis court and ASSO © S U

Ic JEWELS, WATCHES anthology (curated by Anne Baldassari) of more than 200 works pool, and inside with its rich succession of rooms. Architecture, decorative arts, furnishings and EXPERIENCE SINCE 1929

tracing the artist’s amazing career, from his so-called “Blue collections express as a harmonious whole the high ABLO P

Period” to the last years of his life. “Pablo Picasso. Capolavori dal standard of living of the owners, who belonged to y P the upper middle class of Lombard industrial families. Museo Nazionale Picasso di Parigi”. Open Wed to Sun from 10am to 6pm. www.mostrapicasso.it. Palazzo Reale. Piazza Duomo, 12. www.fondoambiente.it. Via Mozart, 14. T: 02 76340121. From 20 November: via Gonzaga, 5 M1 Palestro. map G4 T: 02 875672. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F5 OURSE , 1922 B c Temporary Shop (until 20 November) via Albricci, 2 LA T: 02 877449 • www.ronchigioielli.com 58 WHERE MILAN I NOVEMBER 2012 ELITE Rent-a-Car®, Essentials FIERAMILANO RHO FAIRGROUNDS special Where Milan offer

the PerFeCt aCCessories to enjoY itaLY Free delivery and pick up at your hotel and a 10% discount on standard rates on www.eliterent.com/WHEREMI

Only the classiest cars from Mercedes- Benz, BMW, Audi, Porsche, Ferrari, Maserati and the brand new Tesla. SUVs, Vans and convertibles. T: 02 804435 Courtesy FIERAMILANO

Airports VIP Airport and Hospitality Services City Tours

MaLPenSa - (45 km from the centre of Milan - SiSteMa MiLano - Linate and Malpensa Airports, CitYSigHtSeeing MiLano - (48-hour A8 direction Varese). Flight and bus info T: 02 Linate ATA terminal, and Duomo Point in via HOP ON HOP OFF ticket) Foro Bonaparte, 76. 74852200 (call center). www.sea-aeroportimilano.it dell’Arcivescovado 1, T: 02 72023375. Open daily, T: 02 867131. www.milano.city-sightseeing.it. trains T: 199 151152. Mon-Sun 9am-8.30pm. www.sistema-milano.it Departure: Piazza Castello. M1 Cairoli. Map e4. 7am-9pm. www.malpensaexpress.it. Customer Care c/o Stazione Milano Cadorna FNM. Mon-Fri 7am- 8pm; Sat 8am-8pm; Sun 8.30am-4pm. The train connects Malpensa with the main railway stations of Milan (Cadorna, Centrale, ) with 131 daily departures. Journey times vary from 29 minutes (point-to-point) to 52 minutes. Ticket: € 11 Courtesy ATM Malpensa Shuttle bus T: 0331 258411. www. Taxi malpensashuttle.it. Departures from Terminal 1 For more detailed listings, please see exit 5 to Stazione Centrale FS, every 20 minutes www.wheretraveler.com How to catch a taxi in Milan. From the hotel: call GETTInG ARound MILAn (6.20am-10pm) / from Stazione Centrale FS to the concierge. While out and about in the city, Terminal 1, every 20 minutes (5.20am-9pm). In addition to the metro (underground) system, Emergency call for a taxi on Yellow Taxi 02 69.69 Ticket: € 7,50 Taxi airport fees: from or to Malpensa: €90 / from or cited in the listings, Milan is also covered by • Carabinieri T: 112. Malpensa bus Express www.autostradale.it. to Linate: €25-30 / from or to Orio al Serio: under €100 numerous tram and bus routes. For more • ambulanCe T: 118 . information regarding Milan’s public transport Departures from Terminal 1 exit 6 to Stazione • City PoliCe T: 02 77271. system: atM - azienda trasporti Milanesi – Centrale FS every 20 min (6.50am-10.10pm) • mediCal serviCes T: 02 34567. Interpreters Local Public transport Company - - Departures from Stazione Centrale FS to • oPen PharmaCies T: 800 801185. Open daily 7.30am-7.30pm. www.atm.it. Terminal 1 exit 6 every 20 min (6.50am-10.10pm). Studio Bernitz - [email protected]. • PassPorts Questura di Milano, via T: 800 808181. Ticket: € 7,50 T: 02 26415319/3356348682. Fatebenefratelli, 11. T: 02 0262261. Linate - (7 km from the centre of Milan). Flight • lost and Found on ATM Vehicles City of Milan. Language ConSuLting - www.lcc.it. Ordinary ticket (1,50 €) information 24h-24h T: 02 74852200 (call center). Mon-Fri 8.30am-4pm. Via Friuli, 30. T: 02 88453900. Via Lanzone, 6. T: 02 8057846/864156. Valid for 90 minutes. Can be used on buses, www.sea-aeroportimilano.it trams or the metro (one trip only). Trains Деловые переводы, экскурсии, шоп-туры. Day ticket (4,50 €) Bus 73 Departures from Milano-piazza San Babila www.vivatmilan.com Valid 24h. Bus, tram and metro with no limits. to Linate, every 10 minutes (5.35am-0.35am). Ferrovie dello stato - Trenitalia Railway Departures from Linate-Floor Arrival to Milano- Company - Info T: 892021. www.trenitalia.com [email protected] Two-day ticket (8,25 €) T: 338 6751422 Valid 48h. Bus, tram and metro no limits. piazza San Babila, every 10 minutes (6.05am- We love to make you feel at home - Milano Nord Railway - Info T: 199 15 152. Check the tarifs for the extra-urban subway. 0.55am) Mon-Sun 7am-10pm. From Milano/Cadorna to Return ticket to Rho Fieramilano (5 €) Luxury Car Rental (45 km from the centre of Milan Volandia Museum, via Malpensa Express in 30’. ORIO AL SERIO - Easy to reach – A4 direction Bergamo). Flights and bus info www.ferrovienord.it driVe Your dreaM - Piazza Sempione, 5. Info Where to buy your ticket: from the all from the town center. 24h-24h. T: 035 326323. www.orioaeroporto.it. itaLo - Italy’s newest high-speed train and reservations T: 02 39195044 or 327 6787077. authorized ticket sellers, ATM POINTs and Wide parking available. www.dydrent.it automatic ticket machines in underground connects 9 Italian cities including Florence, Orio Shuttle - Bus from Aeroporto Parking Bus stations. Rome, Naples and Milan (Garibaldi FS). eLite rent-a-Car - Via Albricci, 9. T: 02 804435 to Stazione Centrale FS Mon-Fri every 30’ (6am- www.residencecorvetto.it www.italotreno.it www.eliterent.com 10.15pm); Sat-Sun every 30’ (8.15am-7.15pm) / Via Augusto Osimo, 10 from Stazione Centrale to Aeroporto Orio Mon- Smart, comfortable, high class four star 400 mt from MM Porto di Mare Fri every 30’ (5.45am-11.15pm); Sat-Sun every 30’ T : +39 02 929781 WHereaLL Ca MP iLLeadan M ina MyriadPS: ask Proyour Light concierge SemiExtended the bi-monthly 7.5pt dummy free publication text here byfor Where dummy text here for dummy text here for dummy text or dummy (5.45am-7.15pm). Ticket: € 9,90

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PIAZZA CALVI PIETRO VIA VIA PISANELLO VIA VIA B. PANIZZA BARACCACORSO MAGENTA MARIA CORSO MAGENTA MARGHERITA PIAZZA ANCONA VIA SAN RAFFAELE VIA SOTTOCORNO PIAZZA VIA SANTA DELLE VIA S.VIA C. SUL MERAVIGLIMURO DEL SAN BABILA VIA S. M. VIA GROSSI VIA ARCHIMEDE VIA SISMONDI VIA FIAMMA VIA VIA SASSI GRAZIE VIA LUINI CORDUSIO GALLERIA REDEGONDA LIBERTY VIA TOMMASO GULLI VIA NIRONE PIAZZALE VIA ELBA VIA PAOLO GIOVO VIA SANT’AGNESE PORTA VIA OREFICI VITTORIO VIA JACOPO PALMA VIA G. FRAU VIA POLIBIO VIA PIAZZA EMANUELE II Linate City VIA TRIVULZIO ARMORARI VIA PASSIONE PARCO FORLANINI SIENA ANSPERTO AFFARI VIA C. V. EMANUELE II VIA PASQUALE FORNARI VIA S. M. EXCELSIOR CHIOSSETTO Airport OSPEDALE BRISA VIA FULCORINA BAGGIO PIAZZA VIA SETTIMO MONETA VIA ARCHIMEDE TANGENZIALE OVEST VIA SAN VITTORE VIA DUOMO VIA VIA MARCONI VIA DUOMO SICILIA VIA TERRAGGIOVIA SANT’AGNESE VIA ZANELLA VIA VIGNA SPADARIVIA C. EUROPA VIA MARCONA VIA MARCONA SASSI VIA STELLINE VIA DELLE VIA QUARNERO VIA B. ZENALE POINT PIAZZA VIA CAPPUCCIO VIA DEL SAN CARLO VIA BEZZI BOLLO MUSEO SANT’AMBROGIO PINACOTECA 900 PIAZZA VIA DOGANA VIA MARCONA AMBROSIANA MAZZINI VIA VIA DURINI VIALE SIENA VIA CORNELIO FONTANA VIA FILIPPO CORRIDONI VIA DEI GRACCHI VIA TRIESTE VIA DE TOGNI VIA NECCHI PALAZZO VIA U. V. BATTISTI DI MODRONE VIA LITTA

VIA DELLE FORZE ARMATE VIA GIAN BATTISTA VICO MORIGI VIA VIA M. BANDELLO VIA SANTA VALERIA VIA SAN MAURILLO VIA VERZIERE LARGO VIA SANT’ORSOLA REALE PIAZZA SANT’ AUGUSTO VIA VAL VIA DELLE ORE VIA DELLA GUSTALLA PIAZZA VIA ANGUISSOLA VIA VOLTERRA PETROSA PIAZZA PIAZZA PO VIA VERGA MUSEO DELLA VIA G. CARDUCCIAMBROGIO PIAZZA CORSO PORTA VITTORIA VIALE CORSICA VIA MANARA CORSOMOROSINI VIA XXII MARZO EMILIA VIA SAN EUSEBIO LUPETTA DIAZ 5 GIORNATE VIA PODGORA A I R B M U E L A I V

VIALE VIALE PISA VIA SAN VIA S. MICHELE DEL CARSO SCIENZA E DELLA S. STEFANO VIA FONTANA VIALE FORLANINI CARCERE CIRCO VIA VIALE DI PORTA VERCELLINA MARTA UNIVERSITA’ PIAZZA VIA VIA MAROSTICA VIA CAVALCABÒ CABOTTOVIA ETNA TECNOLOGIA VIA SANTA VIA TORINO VIALE CATERINA DA FORL SAN VITTORE CATTOLICA MENTANA VIA PIAZZA PIAZZALE NERINO VIA LARGA PIAZZA VIA SARDEGNA VIA DEI PIAZZA CHIARAVALLEVIA VIA E. BESANA IRNERIO VIA LANZONE MEDICIVIA PIATTI VIA VIA AQUILEIA VIA DEL VIA ANFOSSI TORCHIO MISSORI ANDREANI VIA BEZZECCA BANDE NERE VIA TORINO ALBRICCI VIA CADORE VIA DELLE FORZE ARMATE VIA DELLE FORZE ARMATE 5 VIA CECCHI VIA DEGLI OLIVETANI VIA PANTANO 5 Í CORSOVIA PAOLO DI DA PORTA CANNOBIO ROMANA GIARDINI VIA FREGUGLIA VIA STROZZI VIA OLONA VIA E. DE AMICIS VIA STAMPA VIA AMEDEI LARGO PIAZZA GUASTALLA VIA COSTANZA VIA EGAR VIA FIENO VIA MARZIO VIA SAN VITO VELASCA VIA SANT’ANTONIO VIA DELLA PACE PIAZZALE VIA LESMI VIA SAN BARNABA ROTONDA VIA SPARTACO MARINAI FEZZAN VIA DELLA PIAZZA VIA DEL CARROCCIO VIA BARTOLOMEO D’ALVIANO VIA ARIBERTO MADDALENA D’ITALIA VIA UNIVERSITA’STATALE BESANA VIA DELLA COMMENDA TRIPOLI VIA CALCO VIA CORRENTI VIA UMBERTO III OLMETTO VIA SAN SENATORE VIA F. D. PERDONO

VIA RONCAGLIA POMPILIO VIA VIA G. BONI VESUVIO VIALE PAPINIANO WelCome From VIALE LEGIONI ROMANE VIA MISURATA VIA MORA VIA MONTE ORTIGARA VIA VIALEVIA MONTE FOGAZZARO NERO PIAZZA SANT’AGOSTINO CERVIGNANO VIA VIA WASHINGTON DISCIPLINI VIA R. MONTECUCCOLI VIA STROMBOLI VIALE CONI ZUGNA VIA VIA SPARTACO VIA OLMETTO CORNAGGIA VIALE ETIOPIA VIA LUDOVICO VIA FRANCESCO PRIMATICCIO VIA GARIAN VIA SAN VINCENZO CORSO ITALIA DA VIEDANA VIA SiSteMa MiLano PIAZZALE VIA AUSONIO SAN VIA BERGAMO ARCONATI VIA CARAVAGGIO VIA FRANCESCO SFORZA VIA LEONE TOLSTOI VIA DE AGOSTINI VIA SESTO COLONNE LORENZO FAVRETTO PARCO VIA SAN CALOCERO VIA M. FANTI VIA BERNA VIA DEI VIACICLAMINI AZALEE ROMANE VIA LENTASIO PIAZZA PIAZZA VIA CAMPIONESI Today, E S I L O M E L A I V getting around Milan for work A R S U F F I SOLARI PARCO VETRA VIA CROCEFISSO VIA MONTEVIDEO VIA D’OGGIONO S. EUFEMIA VIALE REGINA MARGHERITA PIAZZALE VIA MOLINO DELLE ARMI VIA CURTATONE VIA BERGAMOVIA MOROSINI VIA FRIULI VIA DEL PETTIROSSO ARENA ROMANA CORSO ITALIA or has become easier and VIA GIÓ PONTI DELLE TUBEROSE VIA VALPARAISO MARTINI VIA CALIFORNIA CORSO GENOVA VIA SIMONE D’ORSENIGO VIA VERTOIBA VIA ARZAGA VIA L. SODERINI VIA PROCOPIO VIA G. FERRARI VIA A. LAMARMORA quicker thanks to Sistema Milano. VIALE VIALAZIO A. MAFFEI TANGENZIALE EST VIA ZURIGO PIAZZALE PARCO DELLE VIA SANTA SOFIA CORSODIPORTA VIGENTINA VIA STRIGELLI VIA ROMOLO GESSI VIA VINCENZO FOPPA

CANTORE BASILICHE CORSO DI PORTA ROMANA Boasting years of experience in the VIA TORTONA VIA VIA COSIMO VIA MARCALLI VIA RADAELLI VIA SAN CALIMERO VIA PISTRUCCI VIA ANGELO VIA ARZAGA PIAZZA VIALE D’ANNUNZIO VIA COMELICO DEL FANTE VIA Airport and Transportation industry, VIA CERANO BOLIVAR VIA BOBBIO VIALE GORIZIA VIA ORTI VIA OLTROCCHI VIA DEGLI ASTRI VIA SAN LUCA VIA DELLE VIA STENDHAL VIGNONI CORSO DI PORTA TICINESE Sistema Milano provides a series of VIA PARRI VIA DELL’ALLODOLA VIA COLA DI RIENZO VIA BARBAVARA SANT’ VIA QUADRONNO PIAZZALE LINATE ORCHIDEE VIA L. SODERINI EUSTORGIO LIBIA A51 PIAZZA D’ASSISI services, including transportation in VIA DELL’USIGNOLO VIA CIRENE 6 SANT’ VIA BURIGOZZO VIA DEGLI ETRUSCHI 6 EUSTORGIO SAN FRANCESCO PIAZZA VIA SOLARI VIA SAVONAVIA VOGHERA VIA SAN MARTINO VIALE MONTENEROVIA C. BOTTA the city, airport transfers to and from VIA SAN GIMIGNANO VIALE EMILIO CALDARA VIA BERGOGNONE PIAZZA NAPOLI VIA VIGEVANO PIAZZA CORSO ITALIA VIA CRIVELLI VIA ENNIO VIA DELLE CAMELIE VIA LORENTEGGIO VIALE GALEAZZO INSUBRIALinate (including ATA terminal) and VIA TOLSTOI VIA C. TROYA MUSEO XXIV MAGGIO VIA G. VASARI VIA SIGIERI VIA TORTONA VIALE BEATRICE D’ESTE VIA ANELLI DELLE Malpensa,VIA FAA’ round-the-clock assistance VIA DEL CARDELLINO VIALE BIANCA DI SAVOIA PORTA TICINESE A. ORIANI DI BRUNO VIA DELLA RONDINE VIA CASCINA CORBA PIAZZA CULTURE VIALE COL DI LANA VIA COL MOSCHIN VIALE BEATRICEPATELLANI D’ESTE VIALE A. FILIPPETTI VIA MURATORI LARGO PIETRO VIA VIA TITO LIVIO but also national and international É VIALE BLIGNY VIA DEI GIAGGIOLT VIA A. PANIZZI FRATTINI VIA SAVONA CUSTODI BRASILIA VIA BELLINI GENTILE VIA VESPRI SICILIANI VIA MURATORI VIA DEL TURCHINO VIA FUSETTI transportation.

VIALE BLIGNY CREMA VIA VIALE SABOTINO VIA MONTE CIMONE LARGO ALZAIA NAVIGLIO GRANDE CORSO LODI VIA TORTONA BOCCONI VIA VITTADINI VIA DEI TULIPANI VIABOCCONI VIA SALASCO RIPA DI PORTA TICINESE E I L G U P E L A I V SCALABRINI TORTONA 37 VIA SALASCO DENTATOCURIO VIARIPAMONTI VIALE UMBRIA

VIA PIETRO TAULI VIA RONTGEN V I A T E R T U L L I A N O Where to find and book Sistema Milano services: VIA GIAMBELLINO VIA LATTANZIO VIA DELLE ROSE TONIOLO VIA DEI GIACINTI VIA MAGOLFA PIAZZA SRAFFA VIA MANTOVA VIA VIA GIOVENALE Linate and Malpensa Airports, Linate ATA VIA SAVONA VIA CASTELBARCO VIA GOLA GENTILINO VIA PIACENZA VIA FRIULI ALZAIA NAVIGLIO GRANDE VIA BELLEZZA VIA ROMANO GIULIO terminal VIA VAL BAVONA VIA PESTO VIA BACH VIA PALLADIO VIA P. COLLETTA VIA SARFATTI VIA ADIGE VIA ASCANIO SFORZA PARCO PIAZZALE Duomo Point VIA ARGELATI VIA BORSI VIA PAVIA VIA O. DETTO PERASSOTABACCHIVIA G.B. BALILLA LODI Via dell’Arcivescovado, 1 7 RAVIZZA VIA BUOLE VIA TACITO 7 PIAZZA CORSO SAN GOTTARDO TRENTO VIALE ISONZO T: 02 72023375 (open daily, 9am-8.30pm) TORRE DI VIALE TOSCANA PORTA ROMANA [email protected] VIA LORENTEGGIO VIA LODOVICO IL MORO VIALE CASSALA ALZAIA NAVIGLIO PAVESE VIA GIAMBOLOGNA VIA SEGANTINIVIA DARWIN VIA CONCHETTA

VIA GIAMBELLINO VIA CARLO TORRE www.sistema-milano.it VIA PESTALOZZI PIAZZA

VIA GUINTELLINO TORRI

VIALE BIBBIENA NAVIGLIO GRANDE VIA FRANCO TOSI VIA TORRICELLI FUKSAS PIAZZALE ROMOLO Copyright Where Italia srl. © 2012. VIA MORIMONDO VIALE PIAZZALE BOLOGNA PIAZZA LIGURIA VIALE VIA PANDINO BELFANTI LIGURIA TIRANA VIALE TIBALDI VIA LORENZINI TAGLIAMENTO A B VIA GIACOMO WATT C D E F G H VIA VALLARSA I L PIAZZA VIA SCHIEVANO VIA SPADOLINI VIA CARLO DE ANGELI VIA ERNESTO VIA VALSODA CESANO BOSCONE ROSSI G.S. OHM VIA BALDUCCIODA PISA VIA ERNESTO VIA PARENZO VIA SANTANDERCALINDRI CORSO LODI VIA SAN VIA FELICE LOPE DE VEGA VIA VITTORE BUZZI COTTOLENGO VIA SANTA RITA DA CASCIA VIA IMPERIA VIA IMPERIA VIA VEZZA D’OGLIO VIA F. OLGIATI VIA ETTORE PONTI VIA SERIO VIA CARLO BO

VIA AMBROGIO BINDA VIA RIMINI VIA C. VIA ZUMBINI VIA A. PEPERE GUSSANI VIA SPEZIA VIA TOBAGI PIAZZALE VIA PORTALUPPI CORVETTO VIA LORENTEGGIO VIA MARTINI DETTO MEMMI VIA TOBAGI VIA G. FERREO VIA EUGENIO

VIA BARI CURIEL C O R S O L O D I VIA BIELLA

VIA C. CHIODI VIA BORDIGHERANAVIGLIO PAVESE PIAZZA PIAZZA PIAZZALE VIALE FAMAGOSTA VIALE FAMAGOSTA MAGGI GABRIELE ROSA VIALE FAENZA MIANI

VIA OVADA LAGO DI NEMI

VIA CARDINALE ASCANIO SFORZA VIA VOLTRI

VIA MEDA

VIA DON PRIMO MAZZOLARI VIA A. DI RUDINI VIA 500 m I T N O M A P I R A I V

VIA MONCUCCO VIA E. DE NICOLA 500 m

VIA BARONA VIA A. DE PRETIS VIA DEL MARE

CORSICO VIA BOFFALORA

VIA DEL MARE

VIA DEI MISSAGLIA SAN DONATO MILANESE

TANGENZIALE EST

A7 NAVIGLIO PAVESE A51 BUCCINASCO MILANO GENOVA

VIA DEI MISSAGLIA

TANGENZIALE OVEST

A50

A1

ASSAGO AUTOSTRADA DEL SOLE

500 m