Fashion. Beauty. Business. DEVIL OR ANGEL MAR 2016 Has Edward S. No. 5 Lampert’s management been good for Sears? Features, p. 60 THE AGE OF KIEHL’S Marking 165 years of the neighborhood druggist-turned-global skin-care giant. Milestones, p. 39 TEXTILE TECH Fabric innovations spur new high- tech products. In Focus, p. 24 Keeping It Real Beauty has a new look on the runway and it’s all about individuality. US $9.99 JAPAN ¥1500 CANADA $13 CHINA ¥80 UK £ 8 HONG KONG HK100 EUROPE € 11 INDIA 800 The Sears Tower in Chicago, under construction in 1973. Edward Nardoza EDITOR IN CHIEF Pete Born EXECUTIVE EDITOR, BEAUTY Bridget Foley EXECUTIVE EDITOR James Fallon EDITOR Miles Socha EXECUTIVE EDITOR, EUROPE Robb Rice GROUP DESIGN DIRECTOR Nick Mrozowski CREATIVE DIRECTOR John B. Fairchild 1927 — 2015 MANAGING EDITOR Peter Sadera MANAGING EDITOR, Dianne M. Pogoda FASHION/SPECIAL REPORTS MANAGING EDITOR, OPERATIONS Diana Benbasset DEPUTY MANAGING EDITOR Evan Clark NEWS DIRECTOR Lisa Lockwood DEPUTY EDITOR, DATA AND ANALYSIS Arthur Zaczkiewicz SITTINGS DIRECTOR Alex Badia SENIOR EDITOR, RETAIL David Moin SENIOR EDITOR, SPECIAL PROJECTS, Arthur Friedman TEXTILES & TRADE SENIOR EDITOR, FINANCIAL Vicki M. Young BUREAU CHIEF, LONDON Samantha Conti BUREAU CHIEF, MILAN Luisa Zargani BUREAU CHIEF, LOS ANGELES Marcy Medina ASIAN EDITOR Amanda Kaiser BUREAU CHIEF, WASHINGTON Kristi Ellis ASSOCIATE EDITOR Jenny B. Fine DEPUTY EDITOR, FASHION Troy Segal SENIOR EDITOR, SPECIALTY RETAIL Sharon Edelson SENIOR PRESTIGE MARKET Julie Naughton BEAUTY EDITOR SENIOR FASHION FEATURES EDITOR Jessica Iredale ACCESSORIES MARKET DIRECTOR Roxanne Robinson FASHION MARKET DIRECTOR Mayte Allende EYE EDITOR Taylor Harris MEN’S SENIOR EDITOR Jean E. Palmieri FASHION DIRECTOR Alex Badia MEN’S MARKET EDITOR Luis Campuzano MEN’S REPORTER Aria Hughes MEN’S FASHION ASSISTANT Kayana Cordwell MARKET EDITORS FINANCIAL NEWS AND ANALYSIS Debra Borchardt ACCESSORIES Misty White Sidell BEAUTY, FINANCE Allison Collins BEAUTY, MASS MARKET Ellen Thomas BEAUTY, WEST COAST Rachel Brown DIGITAL Rachel Strugatz READY-TO-WEAR & SPORTSWEAR NEWS Rosemary Feitelberg MEDIA Alexandra Steigrad READY-TO-WEAR AND Kristi Garced SPORTSWEAR FASHION EYE Leigh Nordstrom CORRESPONDENTS LONDON, GENERAL Lorelei Marfil ASSIGNMENT EDITOR ACCESSORIES AND GENERAL Natalie Theodosi ASSIGNMENT EDITOR LOS ANGELES Khanh T.L. Tran, Kari Hamanaka MILAN, FASHION AND NEWS Alessandra Turra NEW YORK, EDITORIAL ASSISTANTS William Cotto, Tara Bonet-Black, Kelsi Zimmerman NEW YORK, FASHION ASSISTANTS Andrew Shang, Kayana Cordwell PARIS, EUROPEAN BEAUTY EDITOR Jennifer Weil PARIS, SENIOR FASHION EDITOR Laurent Folcher PARIS, SENIOR BUSINESS NEWS EDITOR Joelle Diderich PARIS, GENERAL ASSIGNMENT Paulina Szmydke REPORTER, NEWS PARIS, EDITORIAL AND WEB COORDINATOR Anne-Aymone Gheerbrant GENERAL ASSIGNMENT EDITOR, EUROPE Laure Guilbault SAN FRANCISCO, TECHNOLOGY Maghan McDowell DESIGN DEPARTMENT ART DIRECTOR Mallory Roynon DESIGNER Jewelyn Butron PHOTOGRAPHY PHOTO DIRECTOR Ash Barhamand SENIOR PHOTO EDITOR Jenna Greene BOOKINGS AND PRODUCTION EDITOR Oona Wally PHOTO EDITOR Katrina Brown ASSISTANT PHOTO EDITOR Jillian Sollazzo PHOTO STUDIO Real Girls PHOTO STUDIO COORDINATOR Emily Taylor 52 Models once walked the runway in uniform PHOTOGRAPHERS Justice Apple, George Chinsee, Thomas Iannaccone beauty looks, but recent seasons have seen a trend COPYDESK COPY CHIEF Maureen Morrison-Shulas toward letting each individual stay true to her own COPY EDITORS Danielle Gilliard, David Podgurski, Maxine Wally features and style. PREPRESS PRODUCTION DIGITAL IMAGING Alex Sharfman PREPRESS ASSEMBLY David Lee Chin Saint or Sinner? WWD.COM DIGITAL DIRECTOR Danica Lo 60 Since taking over Sears and Kmart and ASSISTANT ONLINE EDITOR Kristen Tauer DIGITAL DAILY DESIGNER Ryan Richmond forming Sears Holdings Corp., chairman Edward S. WEB PRODUCER Robert Tutton SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGER Leah Kircher Lampert kept the ailing chains going with a stream INTERNATIONAL DIGITAL EDITOR Fabiana Repaci of funding maneuvers, spin-offs and real estate PUBLIC RELATIONS P.R. COORDINATOR Christina Mastroianni The Features transactions. But has he been good for the brands? Photograph by AP IMAGES WWD.COM MARCH 2016, No. 5 3 Contents Paul Jowdy SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT, GROUP PUBLISHER Pamela Firestone ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER ADVERTISING INTERNATIONAL FASHION DIRECTOR, Renee Moskowitz RMM MEDIA EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, MEN’S Brett Mitchell BEAUTY DIRECTOR Carly Gresh AMERICAN FASHION & Jennifer Petersen LUXURY DIRECTOR ACCOUNT DIRECTOR Samantha Hartje ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES Amy Keiser Shannon Fitzgerald SENIOR CLIENT SERVICES MANAGER Trish Robbins CLIENT SERVICES MANAGERS Annie Belfield Rachael DeSantis Tina Schissel REGIONAL OFFICES/INTERNATIONAL OFFICES WEST COAST DIRECTOR Jill Biren +1-323-965-7283 EUROPEAN ACCOUNT DIRECTOR, ITALY Giulia Squeri +39-02-722-33602 ACCOUNT DIRECTOR, ITALY Olga Kouznetsova +39-02-722-33603 SENIOR SALES COORDINATOR, ITALY Emanuela Altimani EUROPEAN DIRECTOR, FRANCE Valérie Deschamps-Wright +33-1-44-51-07-611 Kiehl’s is the sixth-largest skin-care brand globally. EUROPEAN SALES REPRESENTATIVE Marjorie Thomas +33-240-31-6541 ADVERTISING ASSISTANT, FRANCE Pascale Rajac DIGITAL/MARKETING/CREATIVE SERVICES The Age of Kiehl’s: What started as a corner MARKETING DIRECTOR Shannon Nobles CREATIVE DIRECTOR, MARKETING Cass Spencer apothecary in Manhattan’s Greenwich Village has DIGITAL MEDIA STRATEGIST Cassie Leventhal DIGITAL SALES PLANNER Suzette Minetti grown into an international powerhouse. AUDIENCE MARKETING VICE PRESIDENT Ellen Fairbanks Dealy WWD Milestones: Kiehl’s at 165, page 39 CONSUMER MARKETING DIRECTOR Peggy Pyle SENIOR DIRECTOR, DIGITAL MARKETING Janet Menaker & STRATEGIC DEVELOPMENT SENIOR DIRECTOR FINANCE, PLANNING Sean McDermott AND OPERATIONS PLANNING & OPERATIONS DIRECTOR John Cross DEPARTMENTS SENIOR DIRECTOR, Randi Segal INSTITUTIONAL SALES SENIOR ONLINE MANAGER Suzanne Berardi 6 Social Studies SENIOR MARKETING MANAGER Tamra Febesh The best and worst in social ASSOCIATE MARKETING MANAGER Lauren Busch Agenda media, what’s trending, PRODUCTION whom to follow. PRODUCTION DIRECTOR Kevin Hurley PRODUCTION MANAGER Providence Rao SUMMITS & EVENTS 24 WWD In Focus VICE PRESIDENT, NEW VENTURES & GM Amber Mundinger The Battle Textile Tech From fabric EXECUTIVE EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Mary Ann Bacher developments in activewear DIRECTOR, ATTENDEE SALES Kim Mancuso Continues 8 SPONSORSHIP DIRECTOR Alexis Coyle to the growth of sustainability, After a tough and lingering slog, DIRECTOR OF Amelia Ewert innovation is bringing fresh EXPERIENTIAL MARKETING watchmakers, who gathered in products to the consumer. FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING LLC Basel this month, hope they’ve EDITORIAL DIRECTOR OF Michael Atmore turned the corner and are FOOTWEAR NEWS & DIRECTOR holding their breaths about 34 Eye OF BRAND DEVELOPMENT the year ahead. • Arts & Culture Actress DIRECTOR OF EUROPEAN OPERATIONS Ron Wilson and sometimes Miu Miu front-rower Emma CONGRATULATIONS Greenwell makes it big in Hulu’s “The Path.” WWD AND FAIRCHILD MEDIA So Bad, It’s Good 12 ARE OWNED AND PUBLISHED BY PENSKE MEDIA CORPORATION • Report Card Jaime Even though the consumer Jay Penske isn’t shopping, fashion stocks King looks her best; CHAIRMAN & CEO ON YOUR are rebounding as investors Retirement doesn’t VICE CHAIRMAN Gerry Byrne KIEHL’S try to get in early. agree, fashionwise, EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT, George Grobar with David Letterman. STRATEGY AND OPERATIONS SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT, Craig Perreault BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT 165TH ANNIVERSARY 66 Think Tank GENERAL COUNSEL & Todd Greene SVP HUMAN RESOURCES Bill Zielke, chief marketing VICE PRESIDENT, CREATIVE Nelson Anderson The Men’s Side 14 officer of fraud prevention VICE PRESIDENT, FINANCE Ken Delacazar firm Forter, tells retailers VICE PRESIDENT, HUMAN RESOURCES Tarik West The men’s wear segment is VICE PRESIDENT, ENGINEERING Gabriel Koen Kiehl’s Since 1851 is more than a brand. It’s a devotion. To amazing products, to embrace embedded- attempting to navigate the VICE PRESIDENT, TECHNICAL Christina Yeoh microchip credit card OPERATIONS the fi nest natural ingredients, and to customers and communities, both locally changing landscape of retailing systems. Report Card, page 36 DIRECTOR OF COMMUNICATIONS Lauren Gullion and consumer behavior. Last SR. DIRECTOR OF Joni Antonacci and globally. Here’s to 165 amazing years—we can’t wait to see what you do next! week, top executives, designers PRODUCTION OPERATIONS ON THE COVER: Photograph by DAVID URBANKE CONTROLLER Young Ko and retailers discussed SENIOR PROGRAM MANAGER Derek Ramsey DIRECTOR, ADVERTISING OPERATIONS Eddie Ko strategies at WWD’s Men’s CORRECTION: Kiehl’s was founded in the mid-19th century. DIRECTOR OF TALENT ACQUISITION Andy Limpus Wear Summit. The century was incorrectly identified on page 39 of the DIRECTOR OF IT OPERATIONS Rick Gascon, WWD Milestones section on Kiehl’s 165th anniversary. & PRODUCTION Matt Williamson SENIOR IT ANALYST Carl Foner IT ANALYSTS Don Gerber Ryan Ramos WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. COPYRIGHT ©2016 FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 211, NO. 14 Wednesday, March 30, 2016. WWD (ISSN 0149-5380) is published weekly, except for the fifth week in August, the second week in September, and the third and fourth weeks in December, with one additional issue in February, April, June, August, October and December, by Fairchild Media LLC, which is a division of Penske Business Media LLC. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 475 Fifth Ave., New