THE REAL FASHION NEWS: DRESSING THE OSCAR NOMINEES/21 WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’WEDNESDAY Daily Newspaper • February 12, 2003 Vol. 185, No. 30 $2.00 Sportswear Captain Courrèges-ous NEW YORK — Marc Jacobs made an unexpected move on Monday night, creating a fall collection centered around Sixties looks of the Courrèges kind. His vision came complete with that era’s go-go boots, even Penelope Tree-style wigs, worn with abbreviated, geometric clothes of the sort that once defined our visions of the future. Here, his graphic micromini, with a turtleneck and bright hose. For more on the season, see pages 8 to 13.

Burlington’s Bonanza: $579M Buffett Offer Ignites Bidding Battle

By Vicki M. Young

NEW YORK — Suddenly everybody loves Burlington Industries — including the Sage of Omaha. The U.S. textile industry might be

Debate Rages Over Bush Plan To Eliminate Textile Tariffs. Page 4. a shadow of its former self with fabric producers terrified of a flood of imports from China and deflation now a fact of life. But Berkshire Hathaway chief executive Warren Buffett is nothing if not counter- cyclical in his investment strategies. See Buffett, Page18 PHOTO BY PHOTO GIOVANNI BY GIANNONI T H E S E C T I O N I S thesection B E E N P L A C E D WITHIN A&G ACCESSOIRE AMERICAN COLORS BY HENRY LEHR BLOCK 60 BYRON LARS-BEAUTY MARK CASSIN ESPACE/STYLED BY ROBERT CLERGERIE STUDIO EVA FORTUNE EVISU FRACTAL HAN FENG HUMMEL IRENE VAN RYB JOHN SMEDLEY KATE CLARKSON KATHLEEN MADDEN LE PHARE DE LA BALEINE M+J SAVITT MARITHÉ & FRANÇOIS GIRBAUD MICHELLE MASON PEPLUM BY YOSHIKI HISHINUMA POLES PRINGLE SCOTLAND RED HOT SABATO RUSSO SONIA RYKIEL TED BAKER TEHEN TREE TWIN SET pier94Y&KEI S A M E R CHANDISING OPPORTUNITY FOR RETAILERS AS THESE COLLECTIONS HAVE

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By Kristi Ellis investment to the same level at mixed reviews among some of the the same time. other participating countries. GENERAL WASHINGTON — The concept of That could mean a tough fight, “Some countries will think Marc Jacobs, DKNY, Badgley Mischka, Bill Blass and Anne Klein led the tariff elimination always divides. especially since many of the poor- this is a very positive proposal 8 pack as the New York fall season continued. It was no different Tuesday er countries maintain high tariffs and other countries will have Burlington Industries said Tuesday that it has agreed to be acquired by Berkshire when the Bush administration as well as high non-tariff barriers. doubts, especially the Mercosur 1 Hathaway, but bankruptcy investor king Wilbur Ross says “not so fast.” unveiled its proposal to slash all Negotiations over agriculture [which includes Paraguay, Brazil, tariffs on apparel and textiles in and rules of origin for apparel Uruguay and Argentina] coun- While a difficult 2002 for VF Corp. culminated with strong fourth-quarter the Western Hemisphere within and textiles are also expected to tries,” he said. 4 results, the firm is bracing for big changes in the mass jeans landscape. five years. be difficult. Barbosa claimed Mercosur WEST: With Oscar nods in place, the race to the red carpet is on. Here are Reaction ranged from disap- Tuesday’s proposal also takes countries might feel some “dis- 21 some stylists’ suggestions for who should wear what to the big dance. pointment in one textile industry into account the size and levels crimination” in the special treat-

WWD, WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 12, 2003 WWD, WEDNESDAY, camp to guarded optimism in im- of development of economies ment the U.S. proposed giving SUZY: The Met’s production of “Les Troyens”; The fashion show that’s gone to porter and retailing circles. and would give poorer countries poorer countries, particularly in 6 the dogs; Get ready for Kluge wine; A new princess for the Upper East Side. The Brazilian Ambassador to access to the U.S. market sooner the area of agricultural products. Obituary ...... 20 the U.S. also weighed in with a while allowing them to open He also noted the proposed Classified Advertisements ...... 23-27 mixed reaction. their markets more slowly to five-year phaseout of textiles and U.S. officials hope to use the U.S. exports. apparel might be too long for To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is new market access proposals to Brazil, which is co-chair with some countries hoping to gain [email protected], using the individual's name. jump-start the Free Trade Area the U.S. in the FTAA negotia- access to the U.S. market sooner SUBSCRIPTION RATES of the Americas pact, which tions, and many of the other than later. U.S. and possessions, Retailer, daily one year, $99; Manufacturer, daily one year, $135. All others U.S., daily one year $195. Canada/Mexico, daily one year, $295. All other foreign (Air Speed), daily one year $595. aims to create a hemispheric Latin American countries are “In the case of textiles, the in- Please allow 6-8 weeks for service to start. Individual subscription information: (800) 289-0273; trade zone among 34 nations. expected to follow suit with tar- dustry in Brazil is prepared to outside U.S. (856) 786-2140; group subscription information (856) 786-0963. Postmaster: Send address changes to WWD, P.O. Box 10531, Riverton, N.J. 08076-0531. However, the proposals hinge iff reduction proposals of their have a much more daring propos- WWD (ISSN #0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional on all 34 countries agreeing to own by the Saturday deadline. al than this one,” Barbosa said. Friday issue in February, April, May, June, August, September, October and December, and one Saturday edition in January, April, August and November, by Fairchild Publications, Inc. lower their tariffs on industrial Rubens Barbosa, the Brazilian Whether or not the U.S. pro- a subsidiary of Advance Publications Inc., 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001-8191. and agricultural goods, govern- Ambassador to the U.S., predicted posal can withstand another two WWD is a registered trademark of Fairchild Publications Inc.© 2003 by Fairchild Publications Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications Inc. All rights reserved. ment procurement, services and the U.S. proposal would receive Continued on page 19 No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying or recording, or by any information storage or retrieval system, except as may be expressly permitted in writing by the copyright owner. Editorial Reprints: (212) 221-9595 Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and other offices. Mailed under Publications Mail Sales Agreement No. 517054. Canada Post Returns to: P.O.Box 1632, Windsor, ON N9A 7C9 GST # 88654-9096-RM 0001 Canada Publications Agreement # 40032712 Printed in the U.S.A. All signed articles published in the paper represent solely the individual opinion of the writer and not those of WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY. VF Strong in Quarter, With Eye on Levi’s For Web site access, log on to www.WWD.com

By Evan Clark the most recent period, reversal program, now ostensibly conclud- of previous charges and a $2.3 ed. The domestic jeanswear busi- NEW YORK — Coming off strong million pretax gain on the sale of ness posted a 4 percent rise in In Brief fourth-quarter results, VF Corp. a closed facility, profits fattened fourth-quarter sales, but a 4 per- said Tuesday it won’t take Levi 50.7 percent to $84.4 million, or 76 cent drop for the year overall. Strauss & Co.’s entry to the mass cents a share, from $56 million, or In total, the U.S. market in KUNZ CASH: Gap Inc. will pay former chief financial officer Heidi market jeans business sitting 49 cents a year ago. Results for jeans came up about flat last year Kunz a severance payment consisting of $606,300 in bonus and a down. the fourth quarter of 2001 were with growth in juniors offset by year’s salary, according to a Form 8-K filed Tuesday with the While acknowledging that the also reclassified to present the softness in men’s and women’s, Securities and Exchange Commission. Kunz announced her resig- introduction of Levi’s Signature private label knitwear and the said chairman and chief execu- nation Jan. 18. Gap paid Kunz an annual base salary of $550,000. brand in Wal-Mart Stores for the Jantzen swimwear businesses as tive officer Mackey McDonald, on Gap also said Kunz must repay the interest-free $2 million loan back-to-school season would discontinued operations. a conference call. VF’s total she received in January 2000 from Gap by Feb. 1, 2005, or immedi- hurt its mass market sales, the The adjusted bottom line share of the jeans market rose ately if she sells the property pledged to secure the loan or breach- firm promised a series of initia- came in a penny ahead of Wall last year to 20.8 percent from 20.2 es any provision of her severance agreement. Kunz also agreed to tives to combat its rival’s pene- Street’s expectations and the percent a year earlier. immediately pay to Gap any proceeds, against the outstanding loan tration of the discount channel firm’s previous guidance of 75 The competitive landscape for balance, from the sale of any Gap stock options or stock. and expand its business through cents a share. Investors were jeans in the mass channel, howev- new acquisitions, product intro- pleased, trading up shares of the er, will shift when Levi’s launches VC’S NEW GC: Julia Davis has joined Value City Department ductions or both. firm $1.78 or, 5.3 percent, to close its new Signature lines in about Stores Inc. in the new post of executive vice president and general Luckily for VF, it entered the at $35.48 Tuesday on the New 3,000 U.S. Wal-Mart stores for the counsel, reporting to John Rossler, president and chief executive year with some momentum, York Stock Exchange. b-t-s season. officer. Davis had worked closely with Value City for 10 years while posting net income of $76.6 mil- Sales for the three months as- VF is expecting this change, a partner at the law firm of Vorys, Sater, Seymour and Pease. lion, or 69 cents a diluted share, cended 6.2 percent to $1.31 bil- as well as Kmart Corp.’s contrac- for the quarter ended Jan. 4. lion from $1.23 billion a year ago. tion, to pull its jeans sales in the FOOD CHAIN: Groupe Galeries Lafayette said Monday that it had This compared with year-ago Most of VF’s businesses im- mass channel down 9 percent reached an agreement with France’s Casino supermarket chain ex- losses of $112.6 million, or $1.03. proved their bottom lines last this year. Domestic jeanswear tending their joint ownership in Monoprix until 2006. Their previ- Exclusive of restructuring year, enjoying benefits from the sales overall should decline by ous agreement was set to expire in June. In 2006, Galeries Lafayette charges in both quarters and, in company’s strategic positioning Continued on page 7 will hold an option to sell its 50 percent stake in the French super- market chain to Casino. “In this uncertain, environment, this agree- ment provides Galeries Lafayette with necessary financial re- sources and decision-making flexibility,” said co-chairmen Philippe Houze and Philippe Lemonie in a statement. The agreement also stipulates that Casino can increase its Monoprix stake another 10 Moderate Makers Race the Clock percent after April 1, 2009. Galeries Lafayette sold half of Monoprix to Casino in May 2000. By Kristin Larson sized companies like Harvé deliver the product the more Benard, Ballinger Gold, Ninety chance you have to be on-trend. NEW YORK — Time is the new and August Silk, as well as re- One of the paradoxes is there’s a dimension in fashion. tailers producing their own pri- perception that the bigger you While the spotlight shines on vate labels. are as a company, the slower you Correction the designer runways this week, Vendors are cutting lead times are. But the bigger companies mainstream sportswear compa- by shifting sourcing strategies, im- have the capability to be the A story on page 2, Feb. 7 about Kathy Bronstein of Wet Seal and nies are keenly focused on a dif- proving their forecasting and fastest because of the infrastruc- other top merchants leaving their jobs incorrectly included ferent type of calendar — the planning and, in some cases, tak- ture we’ve made offshore and all Filene’s. It should have listed Filene’s Basement instead. Tom time it takes from design con- ing greater risks to be able to meet the way down the supply chain. Kingsbury continues as president, chief executive officer and cept to retail selling floor and consumer and retailer demands. “The reality today is that the top merchant at Filene’s. how to shrink it. “The speed-to-market issue we’ve made speed one of our Make no mistake: This is not is critically important now,” said major initiatives. If you’re in the fast-fashion syndrome of Peter Boneparth, president and business today, speed is a big bar- WWDStock Market Index for February 11 knocking off runway looks at chief executive officer of Jones, rier to entry. It’s competitive.” lightning speed like Zara and noting that the company’s junior Stephen Ruzow, president of H&M. This time warping is brand LEI is the fastest of its women’s wear at the $2.3 billion Apparel Mfg.: 157.78 Retailers: 227.45 Textiles: 8.87 being driven by closer-to-season brands with capability of a 30- Kellwood, whose biggest brand consumer buying patterns and day turnaround out of Mexico, Sag Harbor has been estimated the need to be more in touch while collection lines, like Jones to have annual sales between 0.59 0.64 0.15 with what consumers want in New York and Nine West, tend $500 million and $600 million, the increasingly competitive re- to be slower with a six month said the move to be faster is def- Department Stores 149.64 0.46 tail world. lead time. initely being driven by stores Off-Pricers 286.00 -3.53 Speed-to-market has become For the year ended Dec. 31, buying closer to need. a key issue for everyone from net profits at Jones advanced “[Buyers] want to hold back Discounters 312.14 1.51 major firms such as Jones Ap- 34.8 percent to $318.5 million on and commit as late as possible. Specialty Stores 99.16 -0.81 parel Group, Kellwood Co. and sales of $4.34 billon. And I think they’re right. They’re Index base of 100 is keyed to closing prices of Dec. 31, 1993. Liz Claiborne Inc. to medium- “The closer to need you can Continued on page 14 WWDMAGIC represents an unparalleled opportunity to preview the season’s complete offerings. A comprehensive look at the most exciting trends, designs and labels in women’s apparel and accessories. Intent on connecting retailers with the vendors, the resources and the partnerships they seek, WWDMAGIC brings the industry together at one highly-focused, cost-effective and time efficient event. WWDMAGIC means business. And that means business for you.

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set design by Maria Bjornson and costumes by Anita Yavich, both making their Met debuts, was welcomed by the audience — well, most of it — with a standing ovation. Bravo, brava, bravi! Princess Martha Louise of Norway, the only daughter of King Harald and Queen Sonja, has made it perfectly clear that she and her husband, Ari Behn, one of Norway’s most controversial — make that, notorious — writers and, before he met Martha (we hope), one of its biggest playboys, are moving to New York in the autumn. The two were married last May in one of those fairy-tale weddings D, WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 12, 2003 D, WEDNESDAY, held in the legendary Viking capital city of Trondheim and W y W are expecting their first child in April. They spent their honeymoon in New York and decided it would be the perfect place to raise their children. “I have never seen so many baby carriages anywhere,” says the princess. “In Manhattan, a child is not a hindrance. There is hardly a place in the world where babies can have such a sophisticated life as on the Upper East Side with a view of Central Park.” And maybe Princess Martha will be looking for a job here, as she surprised her country last year when

z she gave up her title, HRH, and her royal allowance. She is a trained physiotherapist and was a big success reading children’s stories on Norwegian television. There will always be room for another princess or two on Fifth Avenue. Just ask the realtors. As you may have already heard, Karen LeFrak’s beautiful snow white five-year-old Standard poodle, named Mikimoto — after the pearls? — won first place in the nonsporting group at Westminster on Monday night. By the time you read this, he may have u walked away with Best in Show. It’s no surprise that she is joining Cornelia Guest, who has 12 dogs and two horses; Lauren Bush, who rescued her dog Angel from a shelter, and noted animal lover Susan Lucci in supporting the black-tie dinner- dance Tails & Tiaras, set for Doubles on March 6. The evening, chaired by Mario Buatta, Wendy Carduner, Karen Clark, Tina Flaherty and Carroll Petrie, will benefit the Animal

S Medical Center’s Cancer Care Unit, which has formed an alliance with By Aileen Mehle MMercedesercedes Bass researchers at Memorial Sloan Kettering Cancer Center. On Monday night, the Metropolitan Opera The committee, which will start presented its wonderful new production of the bidding on such auction items as a Berlioz’s “Les Troyens,” the epic tale of the Cécile leather doggy bag from Cece Cord’s eye® fall of Troy and the Trojans at Carthage Zilkha line, Travels with Tiger, and a pet based on the second and fourth books of portrait by Constance Coleman, Virgil’s classic, “The Aeneid.” Leading the parade of Jayne Wrightsman includes such pedigree lovers as fashionable ladies who help to make this production Charlotte Ford, Coco and Arie possible were Cécile Zilkha in a gold brocade jacket over a Kopelman, Susan Lucci, Betty and Virgil Sherrill, Allison ruffled black skirt cascading to the floor; Jayne Stern and Muffie Potter Aston. Not a stray among them. Wrightsman in a black velvet evening coat with exaggerated cuffs embroidered with black jet beads and You read here that Patricia Kluge was about to make diamonds falling from her ears; the ever elegant her debut on the international wine scene and so she has, Mercedes Bass in a black velvet column with a black satin celebrating the opening of her Kluge Estates Winery and bow at the waist and major sapphire earrings and a pin the Vineyard at a sparkling luncheon at the Four Seasons. If size of the Trojan horse on the stage, and Bessie de you go by her friend Al Gore, Pat’s venture should be an Cuevas of the Rockefeller de Cuevases in black with a unbridled success. At the luncheon, he all but bubbled silver belt under a beautifully cut ruffled jacket. over with rave reviews. Along with an A-list of important “Les Troyens” was done in three acts over five hours. wine writers, Pat’s family, including her husband, Bill About as long as the Trojan War — but wonderful. During Moses, and her young son, John Kluge Jr., were there to the intermission, there was a supper organized by the celebrate in a room decorated by florist Olivier Giugni of Opera Guild, which raised a significant amount of money L’Olivier to resemble Pat’s magnificent private country to keep the singers singing. The chorus, over 100 strong, estate, Albemarle House, near Charlottesville, Va. Guests was in top form and thrilling from start to finish. The opera entered through wrought-iron gates hung with bunches of contains a considerable amount of inventive choreography, grapes and the tables were set behind a topiary privet not the least of which involved a couple of dancers hedge. Her consultant wine maker, the famous Michel suspended from the ceiling of the great stage. The Rolland, introduced the Kluge Estate New World Red orchestra, with James Levine conducting, was splendid, 2001, describing it as set to become one of America’s most not only while accompanying the singers but during exclusive wines. There was a rousing round of applause. extended musical intervals, as well. The two doomed And that’s not all. This month, Patricia will open her leading ladies, who both die at their own hands, were Kluge Estate Farm Shop, where such treats as pastry nothing short of dazzling. Deborah Voigt, a staple of prepared by chef Serge Torres will be on sale. The shop several Met productions including “Elektra” and “Aida,” was designed by David Easton, who also designed dies at the end of the first act. Her appearance was Albemarle House — all 50 rooms of it. memorable, but Lorraine Hunt Lieberson as Dido, Queen of Carthage, stole the night with her compelling singing Lydia Hearst of the Hearst Hearsts and 19-year-old and acting. She made her Met debut in 1999 in “The Great Annenberg heir Oliver Hammond have been going out in Gatsby,” but many saw this as her star-making New York for the past month since they met last summer performance that few will ever forget. Lieberson in the Hamptons. The Hearsts and the Hammonds are reminded one of a young Maria Callas and hers is going to good friends and their combined family fortune is more be a career to watch and savor. than $6 billion. The darling teenagers were at the DIFFA This modern production by Francesca Zambello, with a benefit in the Hammerstein Ballroom, as cuddly as can be. 7 VF Expects Dip in Mass Jeans WEDNESDAY,WWD, 2003 12, FEBRUARY

Continued from page 4 to give up shelf space for its European jeanswear sales about 3 percent this year. jeans in Wal-Mart this year. were up 5 percent for the quar- McDonald said of the launch Hopes offsetting the negative ter and 8 percent for the year. of Levi’s Signature: “We do see an impact of Signature are, in part, Adjusting for foreign currency impact at least for the short term, pinned on what the firm de- fluctuation, sales of VF’s jeans but we have many new growth ini- scribed as “a price advantage to business in Europe dropped 3 tiatives we’ll be launching in the the consumer and, we think, a big percent in the quarter, but grew coming weeks and months across value advantage.” 4 percent for the year. our jeans brands.” The mass market represents The domestic intimates busi- He added that VF’s Wrangler, about one-third of the overall ness saw apparel experience flat Riders and Rustler brands in the jeans market domestically. sales in the fourth quarter and a mass channel and Lee in the de- If the new year poses daunting decline of 4 percent in the year. partment store tier “are as challenges, 2002 was adequate Sales in the outdoor division were strong as they have ever been.” preparation for them. In a state- up 17 percent for the quarter and Wrangler, he noted, its the top ment, McDonald conceded that 3 percent for the year. Imagewear jeans brand for men aged 25 and “2002 was by no means an easy sales increased 10 percent in the up, while Riders is the number- year.” Still, he said, the firm man- quarter, but were down 3 percent one name in women’s jeans at aged to pick up market share in for the year overall. the mass channel. key categories and come out of For the 12 months, VF regis- “We have a long history of the year with sales momentum. tered a net loss of $154.5 million, profitably managing multiple VF beefed up investment behind or $1.38 a diluted share. This re- brands in the mass channel and its core brands with an 11 percent versed year-ago earnings of working in close partnership increase in advertising spending. $137.8 million, or $1.19. Without with our customers to maximize The firm also has cut many of its restructuring charges in both pe- the productivity of their floor costs. By the end of this year, VF riods, income advanced 24.5 per- space,” said McDonald. “Our will have reduced its domestic cent to $380.9 million, or $3.38 a state-of-the-art floor space man- manufacturing to 5 to 10 percent share, from $306 million, or $2.66, agement capabilities have been of its total, down from 10 to 15 during the proceeding year. honed over many years of use percent at the end of 2002. Sales in 2002 dipped 2.6 per- and we believe that they give us Additionally, the firm has cash cent to $5.08 billion from $5.22 a real competitive advantage.” of nearly $500 million and the billion in 2001. The company said the drop in flexibility to pursue new avenues This year, VF said it is looking jeans sales in the mass market of growth, said the ceo. A lifestyle to grow earnings per share by 5 to would come from a fall in units brand that would cover multiple 10 percent, despite significant and not from reduced prices. VF categories would be an excellent upticks in pension, health care also acknowledged it would have fit, he added on the call. and other costs. Penney’s Exclusive on True Beauty by Emme

By David Moin thor of the book “True Beauty.” men’s plus-size] assortments at and Kristin Larson The True Beauty by Emme department stores tend to be collection marks Kellwood’s sec- very traditional, and specialty NEW YORK — J.C. Penney Co. ond ongoing apparel venture stores are traditional or junior. said Tuesday that it will sell the with Emme. The first was The We want to go after the fashion- new True Beauty by Emme plus- Emme Collection, which bowed oriented customer, ages 35 to 50.” size collection on an exclusive in a handful of channels in April Penney’s other plus-size la- basis for a year, and has an op- 2000, including certain Nord- bels are Crazy Horse Woman, tion to renew the contract with strom stores, Nordstrom online Units, Gloria Vanderbilt, Norton the supplier, Kellwood Co. and Bloomingdale’s By Mail cat- McNaughton, St. John’s Bay and Penney’s and Kellwood an- alog. With an average retail Worthington. Plus-size depart- nounced the deal Tuesday, con- price of $45, True Beauty is less ments range from 1,000 to 4,000 firming a scoop in WWD the expensive than the dressier square feet. same day. Emme Collection. Brett said that after the first As reported, True Beauty by Emme, in a statement, de- season, Penney’s will have a good Emme will be introduced to 500 scribed True Beauty as a feel for True Beauty’s volume po- of Penney’s 1,048 stores by “dressed-up version of everyday tential, and whether to renew the March, as well as Penney’s cata- basics that will suit a woman’s exclusive contract. Kellwood is a log and Web site. The deal re- lifestyle fashion needs,” while major supplier to Penney’s, sell- flects Penney’s efforts to brand Jim Brett, Penney’s divisional ing its Sag Harbor, Koret, Vintage itself as a fast-moving, fashion- vice president and divisional Blue Bottoms and Energy labels oriented, moderate-priced de- merchandise manager, special to the chain. He declined to proj- partment store for the masses. sizes, said, “True Beauty is a simi- ect a volume for True Beauty or This season, Penney’s launched lar look to the Emme Collection, Penney’s plus-size business. its exclusive Bisou Bisou con- with great value.” True Beauty in- Vanessa Castagna, chairman temporary collection in about cludes women’s sportswear, and chief executive officer of 500 stores. dresses, intimate apparel and em- Penney’s stores, catalog and True Beauty is being de- phasizes details, ruffles, sheer Internet, said: “Emme has always signed and produced by Kell- fabrics, prints and color. emphasized that a woman’s true wood and Emme for the spring Brett added that with special beauty is defined by both inner 2003 season. Emme, a full-fig- sizes: “We definitely have a strat- and outer beauty….Capturing ured model, is also a host of E! egy to go after the fashion-orient- outer beauty is related to what we Entertainment Television’s ed customer and to differentiate wear and how we dress, and “Fashion Emergency,” and au- from the competition. The [wo- when we look good, we feel good.” CFDA Sets Awards Show for June 2 NEW YORK — The Council of awards ceremony will kick off for a second year by Swarovski. Fashion Designers of America is with a reception in Astor Hall, This year, the 450 designers, planning to stage its annual CFDA followed by a seated dinner. But journalists, retailers and stylists Fashion Awards event on June 2 instead of presenting the awards who participate in the awards for the second consecutive year at during dinner, guests will move to nomination process will also be the New York Public Library. a separate location within the li- able to cast their ballots, due by Following mixed reviews brary to watch the award presen- March 28, through Style.com, over the scaled-back awards tations following the meal. which has signed on as the offi- ceremony in 2002, Peter Arnold, Robert Isabell will design the cial Web site of the event, Arnold executive director of the CFDA, space and Douglas Lloyd of Lloyd said. Once the finalists for de- said the organization is working + Co. will art direct its graphic signers of the year and two Perry to improve its efficiency this presentation and journal. Ellis awards — one for ready-to- year to tighten the length of the As reported, Calvin Klein, wear and one for accessories — event and has hired KCD to pro- Carolina Herrera and Vera Wang are set, that group will vote duce the evening. will serve as co-chairs for the again for the winners, who will Like last year’s event, the event, which is being underwritten be announced at the ceremony. WWD, WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 12, 2003 8 Marc Jacobs Marc Jacobs created a surprising signature collection centered on the Space-Age Sixties, while his Marc showing was both naught The Mod Squad, Peppy Cla coats inshimmering goldandblackmetallic shaping sexytailored suitsandsleekshort ing eveningcollection. Andthatmeant smacked ofsportswear infavorofaglitter- this season,eschewing anythingthat Mischka pumpedupthevolumeonglam Badgley Mischka: grasping atrend. sweaters andfingerlessgloves.Talk about cozy, shepullson pastelAranknit spots, hearts.Andwhenshewantstoget patterns galore—checks,squares,animal extra snugness,flippylittleskirtsand skinny caprijeanswithlegszippedfor good girlpretendingtobebad.Shefavors the SixtiestoEighties,withauraofa spanneddecades,from look ontherunway fashionably nerdy)depth.Thistime,the (eventhe the something-for-everyone designer name,theapproachableedge, elements arethere:thelureofcool blown outtomegaproportions.Allofthe andcould—shouldbe Nirvana, collection remainsthecoolfashiongirl’s Jacobs, shownonTuesday This afternoon. got lostinspace. applauded forhisbrass,thistimethetune want tolooksexy. WhileMarcshould be cousins,they,Like their28-year-old too, appreciate thecharmsofdressingtheirage. afford it,andb)areseldomsavvyenoughto theme wouldwork—teenagersa)cannot overtly sensual,sexy. Thoseforwhomthe out forclothes;they’dratherlookmore most youngwomenseekoutwhenshelling disappointed.) suit, miniortwo,neednotgohome fair, anyoneseekingagreatcoat,snappy purchase.(Andtobe practicality withevery populated byfussbudgetslookingfor customersishardly sphere ofthedesigner’s thegreater a limitedgroup.Justastrue, part ofJacobs’ultracoolfanclub.Butthat’s young actresseswhocomprisesopublica Letterman appearancesbythelegionsof theyseemperfectfor True, clothes? Race, definedourvisionofthefuture. days ofCardin,CourrègesandtheSpace sturdy, graphicshapesthathave,sincethe season’s starletsexinesstothose Fifties The shapes,too,went180degrees,fromthat pastels. departure fromspring’sEastery those electricshadesdominated,adizzying FreezeOrange JuliusandBlueberry Pop, as as adaisy. 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Badgley Mischka Badgley Mischka y and nice. Meanwhile, Donna K s a 9 assics and All That Glitters WEDNESDAY,WWD, 2003 12, FEBRUARY na Karan favored revved-up classics and retro pastels for DKNY, Lars Nilsson did some snappy sportswear for Bill Blass, and Badgley Mischka went ultra-glam. Badgley DKNY Bill Blass Badgley tweeds or beading simple plucked mink MMischkaischka coats and easy cardigans. Badgley and Mischka both love jewels, and often use them lavishly. They chose Stephen Russell’s diamond jewelry to ac- cessorize the collection, and they beaded and printed their fluid georgette, satin and velvet gowns to reflect their inspiration — Art Deco jewelry. There were fewer long gowns and prints than in past seasons. And, in fact, that editing in turn gave focus to the strongest looks: a rose velvet slip- gown and a black satin off-the-shoulder version, both with spare beading. The best of the shorter dresses included an Empire cut in lilac satin, gently puckered and crys- tal-embroidered at the bodice and back, while a stark, taupe plucked mink coat was perfectly chic over a simple putty satin top and short chiffon skirt.

DKNY: There are good girls and there are bad girls — it’s one of the perennial dramas of dressing. And then there are those who play it both ways. Take Donna Karan’s DKNY girl for one. Karan served up peppy classics for fall, pairing a boyish blazer with a scalloped-edged miniskirt in gray flannel or a pink bouclé jacket with plaid pencil pants. Then she cut the sugar with some DKNY DKNY tougher stuff — shrunken leather jackets and zipper-embellished pants that play to every good girl’s dream of life riding on the back of a motorcycle. Though she dreams of the grit and grease of rebellion, the DKNY girl isn’t necessarily running with the fast crowd. A lot of Karan’s collection worked a retro pastel theme, with floaty Fifties skirts in lemon yellow, lavender and seafoam green shown with simple sweaters or fur stoles. From the next decade came Courrèges-like stiff coats in orange and shocking yellow. Both ideas fit nicely into the mood of this season with sweet Fifties looks and bold Mods filling the runways. And if those good girls do what is expected of them, the DKNY collection will suit them to a T.

Bill Blass: Transition is tough; transition weighted by legacy even tougher. But sooner or later, every designer entrusted with the creative direction of a storied house must claim that house as his own, and mark a clear point of distinction between what was and what will be. Lars Nilsson is now in his sixth season at Bill Blass, and while he seems to carry the Blass mantle with greater ease than at the outset, he has yet to define his own Bill Blass Bill Blass signature. Unfortunately, with the collection he presented on Monday, Nilsson did not move far in that direction. The show offered plenty of good clothes, but without the personality to reach out and clutch a new customer, and only that kind of aggressively established identity can ultimately secure for the house a long- term future. Nilsson simply seems unsure of what exactly he wants to say to pitch those potential customers, which is too bad, because he is clearly a talented designer and shows plenty of promise, especially in his daywear. For fall, he started strong, with smart, snappy sportswear that had a waft of that unprissy refinement to which Blass himself played so brilliantly in, for example, a belted cashmere sweater and herringbone skirt. He then varied his moods — terrific, for the sake of diversity, yet unfortunate in that he did not announce any one point of view distinctly enough — moving from classic sportif to racier offerings, and even playing a bit to the well-bred diva with a green sable coat over jeans. For evening, a similar caution ruled, not in the looks themselves, but in the voice. While a pair of little black cocktail dresses exuded a certain sultry sophistication, some of the grander evening gowns had a ponderous feel. On the other hand, when Nilsson paired a little sweater with a long, graceful skirt, one could almost sense Bill

Blass bestowing a little smile. GIANNONI GIOVANNI AND CHINSEE GEORGE AQUINO, JOHN BY PHOTOS 10 Betsey Betsey Anne Klein Perry Yeohlee Johnson Johnson Ellis WWD, WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 12, 2003 WWD, WEDNESDAY,

Anne Klein Perry Yeohlee Ellis

WhenAmerican New York designers flex their imaginations, it’s something to see. And,Patchwork from Betsey Johnson’s Mexican Betseyville and Charles Nolan’s swinging Sixties at Anne Klein to Catherine Malandrino’s thrift-store warriors and BCBG’s take on 20th-century laborers, there was plenty on view.

Betsey Johnson: Hip, hip hooray for Betsey! After 40 Anne Klein: Hopping on the Sixties bandwagon that’s relaunched the women’s line at retail for spring, is years in the business, she’s the industry’s Energizer currently making all local stops down Seventh Avenue, targeting the Baby-Boomer market with clothes that Bunny, still loving the whole spectacle of it all. This Charles Nolan dug some 30-odd years into the Anne give the latest trends a nod, but are built to bolster a season, along with looks from her signature collection, Klein archives for inspiration, specifically the fall of business casual wardrobe. And with this smart, Johnson liberally mixed in “Betseyville,” a new line that 1969. The result was a quiet and clean translation of the perfectly-pitched showroom presentation, Bromer and concentrates more on jeans and T-shirts and less on decade. In fact, most pieces, removed from the context her team hopes to double the number of retail doors for tutus. The two collections will be marketed side by side, of the collection, wouldn’t readily conjure up images of the women’s collection from 250 to 500. differing only in focus, not in price. Overall, the the Summer of Love. The collection also incorporates design elements on designer was Inspired by her new house in Zihuatanejo, Nolan capitalized on a few references — a round which Perry Ellis himself once built the brand, on Mexico’s Pacific Coast, and she worked a newfound button, a shorter skirt, bands of color — and worked including cozy handknits, witty patterns and a variety of love of Mexican kitsch and her signature kicky style into them repeatedly to good, if not humdrum, effect. woven shirts. And Bromer said that some of Ellis’ the more casual collection, while attempting to include However, the Klein customer will have her cake and eat marketing ideas would be revived, too. Customers who every one of Crayola’s 64 colors. it too: clothes that hew to current trends, but don’t look indulge in certain handknits this fall will be given the With no less than 70 looks, Johnson’s runway romp costumey or out of sync with the rest of her wardrobe. same gift with purchase the designer once gave: transitioned smoothly from flouncy peasant skirts to Aside from slight missteps, like a black pony anorak or a knitting needles, a little ball of yarn and a Perry Ellis colored denim and corduroy to “Shampoo”-inspired striped leather shirt, Nolan’s work was right on. clothing label. sequined knit dresses with nary a lull or lag. In Betsey’s world, every outfit stands to benefit from a little white Perry Ellis: “You can call it workwear, lifestyle or Yeohlee: Fashion frivolity aside, these are serious times. lace peeking out from under tops, layers of crinoline and modern,” said Elissa Bromer, president of Perry Ellis And intentionally or not, Yeohlee’s collection mirrors loads of trimmings, but the new denim, corduroy and women’s wear. “What we’ve done is a well-priced, well- that mood. These are quiet clothes, many beautiful for cotton velveteen pieces remained relatively unadorned. made, quality product.” Bromer can say that again. With their sobriety. But you occasionally find yourself want- However, the line still caters to Betsey-girls of every ilk: a wool plaid baseball jacket and slim gray pencil skirt, ing to scream, “Lighten up!” the ultracool prom-queen; the sweet and sassy sweater nubby knits and corduroy blazers, all of which retail for The designer says she’s “inspired by the American girl, and the straight-up sexpot. As is her tradition, under $150, the fall Perry Ellis collection makes a Arts and Crafts Movement,” and that shows up in a won- Johnson turned her runway cartwheel and proceeded to strong case for sensible, affordable dressing. The derful patchwork-effect, black-and-white coat and other cha-cha down the line with her maraca-shaking models, company, which, under licenser Public Clothing Co., pieces with a Shaker-like simplicity — (dark neutral who seemed to genuinely enjoy the ride. and in conjunction with Perry Ellis International, palette, stark shapes and clean lines). But it all felt 11 BCBG BCBG Dana Catherine Catherine WEDNESDAY,WWD, 2003 12, FEBRUARY Max Max Buchman Malandrino Malandrino Azria Azria Fashion Scoops

ALL FIRED UP: After showing their collections, some designers might wish they had done things differently. Not “P. Diddy” Combs, who presented his collection on Saturday night. “I would have still fired Lori Goldstein,” he insisted, of the high- profile stylist he axed when she offered an opinion different from his own. Strolling into the Marc Jacobs show, he said, “I wouldn’t have changed a thing.”

IT’S A DEAL: If Calvin Klein and Barry Schwartz ever harbored dreams of going public, that wish becomes a reality today…sort of. Phillips-Van Heusen, a publicly traded firm, officially closes its deal to buy Calvin Klein Inc. today, two days earlier than recently speculated. CKI will become a subsidiary of PVH, and its net and revenues will now be incorporated into PVH’s quarterly results. PVH bought CKI for $430 million up front, with additional payouts of as much as $270 million in the coming years. And partners Klein and Schwartz will receive shares representing a 4.4 percent stake in PVH. The transaction includes a nine- year warrant in favor of Klein to purchase 320,000 shares of PVH common stock at $28 a share, as reported. And there is still the possibility the PVH moniker could be changed to Calvin Klein, which has the higher brand name recognition.

REAL BITCHES: Fashion week isn’t the only show in town. A gentler, more refined display is taking place right down the street at Madison Greek Dressing Square Garden: The Westminster Kennel Club’s dog show. NEW YORK — It’s not the first time an editor, designer or movie The barking models are as star has been elevated to the level of a fashion god, but it’s international as any supermodel surely the most specific: Anna Wintour is Athena, Tom Ford is lineup at Bryant Park, ranging Apollo and Nicole Kidman is Aphrodite. from Alaskan Malamutes and As if it was Zeus himself casting this frieze, the sun broke American Eskimo dogs to over the penthouses along Central Park and suddenly illuminat- Australian terriers, French ed the gallery of classical antiquities at the Metropolitan bulldogs and Portuguese water Museum of Art early Tuesday morning at the precise moment dogs — whatever those are. If only Harold Koda was speaking to a press corps about the divine at- the United Nations could coexist tributes of the three individuals who are helping the museum’s as happily. Costume Institute realize its spring exhibition and gala, On Monday, the majority of “Goddess.” It was so early that Philippe de Montebello, the From left, Douglas Ferguson’s black and gold mesh ensembles. dogs wore nothing but their Met’s director, made a crack that the show should be called A Roman copy of a fragment from the Great Eleusianian Relief. natural fur (no PETA, thank “Aurora,” after the Roman goddess of dawn. The Dior couture gown Nicole Kidman wore to the 2000 goodness), though some Koda held the press conference during fashion week to af- Academy Awards. accessorized it with trendy beaded ford journalists covering the shows a preview of the museum’s of love and beauty, was also a no-brainer. But for Ford, Koda and bejeweled collars, or leopard- major spring exhibition, which is being organized around the decided on Apollo, the Greek god of sunlight and prophecy, be- print sweaters. Vicki, a Yorkshire Vicki, top, and her theme of classical dress and its influence on art and fashion cause he also drove a gilded chariot, aka Gucci, which is the Terrier, wore a gold and red signature red bow, and a throughout history. Among the Greek statuary and their Roman primary sponsor of the exhibit and party. ribbon. “I make the bows, copies, the museum had installed several examples of the works “We had thought about Adonis,” Koda said, “well, because because it brings out their hair fashionably groomed that will be featured in the exhibit, including Kidman’s gold Dior he’s hot.” The exhibit, which will open on May 1 in the Costume color,” noted Carol Huskey, Vicki’s standard poodle. couture gown worn to the 2000 Academy Awards, black and Institute’s traditional venue in the museum’s lower level, will be owner, who’s clearly a bit of a frustrated fashion designer gold mesh ensembles from Douglas Ferguson and Mary organized around classical themes in ancient dress, illustrating herself. “If you have dark gold hair, you need to wear red.” McFadden’s white pleated toga dresses from 1991. Each dress various styles such as peplos, chiton and himatian silhouettes. As for hair trends, looks ranged from dreadlocks to curls, echoed the pleats and folds of the statues nearby, which is what But it will also incorporate contemporary views of classicism, though stick-straight hair was the ’do-du-jour (think Condé got Koda thinking about deities and how they relate to the three with 120 pieces in total, including Ford’s bandage dress for Nast fashion editor to get the picture). co-chairs of the Costume Institute’s “Party of the Year.” Yves Saint Laurent and even the dress Lauren Bush designed in “It’s like a fashion show for dogs,” said Laura Wright, who Athena, the goddess of wisdom, was an obvious choice for collaboration with Tommy Hilfiger to wear to last year’s Council accessorized her rottweiler with a turquoise beaded Native- Wintour, who was present for the event, as she was a warrior of Fashion Designers of America Awards. American silver choker. “He also has a leopard-skin and polar who oversaw weaving and craft. Kidman as Aphrodite, goddess — Eric Wilson fleece jacket,” she gushed. “That’s his going-to-New York coat. We wore it from the airport to the hotel. He’s into fashion. Look at him, how stylish is he?” more like typical Yeohlee. That, of course, means lots of inspiration for the collection,” she said over the strains terrific coats, the best of which were a long, Velcro- of a live jazz group during her showroom presentation. LVMH’S FRESHMAN CLASS: It closed duffle look in black wool and fleece and a black That meant lots of shearling, fur trim and velvet. wasn’t high society or low melton friar coat; easy classic sportswear looks like the Texture came in the form of tweed pantsuits, sometimes celebrities who ruled the front soft navy worker’s or wrapped shirts and relaxed pants; with mink trim, or in delicate burnout velvet on a flirty row at DKNY on Monday, but and, for evening, fluid silk crepe tunics with gently cocktail dress. One of the best looks for day was a rib- rather the freshman class of ruched sleeves. Yeohlee neither pretends to nor aspires knit poncho with leather fringe, worn over slim black LVMH University. Donna to reference the latest trends, and, always true to that leather pants. Outerwear, which Buchman considers François Kress and Laura Karan International’s new position, she continues to show impeccably made, ele- important to complete a look, included an ivory Stephen from Fendi. chief executive, Fred Wilson, gant clothes that will neither rock the boat nor be swept cashmere topper that buttoned left of center, lots of packed in not only his own into fashion’s mainstream. Clearly, sticking to that route classically shaped shearlings and even a silver fox recruits, but also the new U.S. business heads of Fendi and Marc is both her strength and her weakness. capelet worn with a black silk evening gown. The luxe Jacobs: François Kress, who was installed as president of Fendi quotient was undoubtedly met, but the mix could have last year, and Jeffry Aronsson, the newly appointed ceo of Marc BCBG Max Azria: Some designers are exploring the used a few trendier pieces. Jacobs. They filled a section, along with DKI execs Melissa exotic this season, but Max Azria chose to focus his Parker-Lilly, president of Donna Karan New York, and Tisha attention closer to home. His inspiration, in fact, was a Catherine Malandrino: “For what is the value of fashion Kalberer, chief financial and administrative officer. Taking the series of August Sander photographs depicting early if a woman cannot adorn her own body without fear?” center seat was Yves Carcelle, chief executive of Louis Vuitton 20th-century laborers and tradesmen. Sound a little bit Def Poetry Jam performer Staceyann Chin posed that and head of LVMH’s fashion and leather goods business group. dour? It was — and a far cry from his pretty Easter- question to conclude her original poem in which she But the freshmen didn’t make it the whole way through colored frocks from spring. mused about yellow corduroys and other fashion- the day. By the time of the Marc Jacobs show later that But, as a master of the contemporary market, the feminist intersections, in an original work night, Aronsson’s only companion beyond the throng of designer knows better than most how to mix a bit of commissioned to open Catherine Malandrino’s fall starlets was Carcelle. Were the others in bed — or, like all charm with a hearty dose of function. His chunky collection, shown on Tuesday at the Longacre Theater. freshmen, partying the night away? knits, for example, acquired a thrown-together chic Begging to differ, Staceyann, but sometimes, the only when paired with flirty washed silk dresses or thing a woman has to fear is fear itself, and some contrastingly textured separates. One look partnered overwrought, overstudded clothes. Malandrino loves to a cozy rose-colored cardigan with a delicate printed work a detail, but sometimes, more is too, too much. And cotton voile apron top and loose, cropped corduroy this time out, the overload of heavy embellishments and pants. For those who want something a little more overly retro Seventies and Eighties references dragged buttoned-up, there were cotton canvas peacoats and her collection down. From a spiral zipper on metallic lots of sailor pants in shades of navy, aubergine and leather pants to brass studs on just about everything, charcoal. There were some nice moments, but overall, the details overpowered the characteristic prettiness of the collection was simply too sedate with too many the designer’s work. Apparently, Malandrino wanted to played-out details. make the connection between strong clothes and strong Tisha Kalberer, Melissa Parker-Lilly, women by creating a sort of funky thrift-store warrior Yves Carcelle, Jeffry Aronsson and Dana Buchman: While the bridge category may be tricky done up in corsetry, blouson sleeves and platform boots Fred Wilson with his wife, Debbie. and misunderstood, Dana Buchman knows exactly who — as if inner mettle can be drawn out by donning

her customer is and what she wants. “Luxury was the hardware-laden clothes. MITRA ROBERT AND IANNACCONE THOMAS CHINSEE, GEORGE CENTENO, TALAYA AQUINO, JOHN BY PHOTOS 12 Variety is the Spice

In this city, there’s always something for everyone. Behnaz Sarafpour turned on the charm, Jess Holzworth updated the Ziegfield girl and Alireza snapped a picture of Dorian Gray. And for good measure, Gaelyn and Cianfarani remembered to recycle.

Behnaz Behnaz Douglas Rena Jess Holzworth Sarafpour Sarafpour Hannant Lange WWD, WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 12, 2003 WWD, WEDNESDAY,

Alireza

Douglas Rena Hannant Lange

Behnaz Sarafpour: By now, we’re familiar with Behnaz Rena Lange: This season marks the 50th anniversary of presentation, and the designer wore her friend’s vintage Sarafpour’s young artistic spirit and her insatiable desire the German-based firm Rena Lange. And for fall, de- Chanel pearls to the event, while Goldwyn wore a fluid to create artful collections. Sometimes she has triumphed signer James Waldron, in his third season at the compa- white satin gown designed by Holzworth. and sometimes missed the mark, but she continues to ny, showed a strong collection featuring schoolgirl Goldwyn, who is currently working on a documentary arouse curiosity each season. For fall, Sarafpour wowed pleated skirts in buttery suede or corduroy, and charm- about the burlesque, had another dance discipline in mind. with her little suits with cropped pants; charming black ing black cocktail dresses in lace or satin trimmed with “It’s all about ballet,” she said, lifting up her featherweight coats and jackets sprinkled with gold sequins, and her satin ribbon. The house’s signature bouclé jackets and dress to show off a leotard and pair of tights underneath. craftsy ivory wool cardigan, glistening with golden suits got a facelift this time around, looking young and sparkles. Even her details were flawless: dresses or skirts fresh in ivory with tulle edging. But the denim group Alireza: Things seem to be coming together nicely for had contrast-colored waistbands, there was reversed was the real news here, with pants, skirts and jackets Alireza Massoumnia’s three-year-old eponymous seaming, swirling organza ruffles and tulle peeking out that had heart pockets or asymmetric seaming, all collection. For fall, he looked to Oscar Wilde’s dashing but from under hems of skirts or coats. Unfortunately, the shown with chunky, cozy cashmere sweaters. For vain Dorian Gray, as well an English gentleman’s old attic designer’s ballet moment didn’t quite work. The tulle evening, there were svelte velvet suits with superslim for inspiration. But there was nothing stuffy or musty skirts and gowns were a bit over-the-top, best-suited to the pants and little jackets with portrait necklines. Waldron about what he uncovered. His strength is tailoring, best venue that inspired them: dance class. even indulged in a brief Mod moment with a charming seen in a sharp rust corduroy blazer, an artfully pleated black suit with big white buttons. skirt and smart tuxedo looks, including a sexy waistcoat Douglas Hannant: It’s not really clear for what age group and short-sleeved jacket. And while he blew the dust off Hannant designs. Older? Younger? Youngish? The Jess Holzworth: A new sophistication marked Jess old-fashioned tailoring, he also showed some standout clothes this season sometimes looked chic and young, Holzworth’s fall collection, which she presented on eveningwear — a dress made from 200 yards of ruffled and, at other times, seemed dated even in an obvious mannequins in a West Chelsea gallery on Monday. lace painted in smokey hues and a wool gown with a metal attempt to be fresh. But the focus was clear and bright The small collection packed a big wallop. Draped chain front panel fashioned by jeweler Desi Santiago. With with his crisp, beautifully designed luncheon suits, satin looks boasted a simple elegance, including a sleek all the references to English heirlooms and tailoring, the simple, long charmeuse gowns and outstanding suedes, black capelet worn with a black satin shift, perfect for a collection did at times ring a wee bit McQueen, but it was especially a topstitched terra-cotta trenchcoat worn more minimalist modern-day Ziegfeld girl. Meanwhile, unique enough to keep from calling out the guards. over a short chiffon Art Deco-print dress. Hannant a minidress that looked like an elongated satin baseball seemed most inspired, however, working with fluid jacket gave Holzworth’s look a playful touch. Holzworth, Palmer Jones: Blonde identical twins Kathryn and Lindy fabrics in such looks as a black jersey dress with long who lives in Los Angeles, said she was inspired by Rudi Jones, who won the Ecco Domani Fashion Foundation sleeves and subtle beaded edges or a green bias-cut Gernreich, Kenneth Anger films and hip-hop. “It’s Award this year, rounded up some unusual suspects for panne velvet version. His weak spots were the too- magic hip-hop,” she said. their show at Christie’s on Sunday night. Their distinctive constricted shapes and overembellished fabrics. Liz Goldwyn helped Holzworth with her presentation, which used five models in a fashion riff on a Palmer Jones 13

The following year, Taki and Mori WEDNESDAY,WWD, 2003 12, FEBRUARY sold their stake in Donna Karan Fashion Scoops to LVMH Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy. LULU HAS LEFT THE BUILDING: Despite telling WWD last August Taki has remained active in that she was ready to take the reins over from Mom, Lulu the apparel business, but Mori Johnson, 27, is said to have “retired” from her position at said he’s “semi-retired.” e Betsey Johnson. A source close to the family says that Lulu is “I’m a very happy man,” said looking into getting her MBA and possibly opening her own Mori, who, in addition to serving store. No word, so far, on what caused her departure. on the board of Stride Rite Corp., has been managing his savings, CELEBS COME HOME: Still wondering where all the A-listers seeing friends, building a new went? Cosmopolitan, of all magazines, managed to corral a few home in the Hamptons and, yesterday at a luncheon just blocks from tents for its Fun, above all, raising his five-year-old Fearless Female awards. Sandra Bullock was suddenly in town daughter as a single parent. In to receive her reward, as were Laura Linney, Eve, Mandy Moore fact, he’s currently going through and Jon Bon Jovi (the token male). Asked where she was when the agonizing process of every we needed her, a Prada-clad Linney stuck up for herself with New York parent: Trying to get her her appearance at Anne Klein Tuesday and murmured into a top kindergarten. something about trying to catch Calvin Klein. Eve said, “I actually just got back. We’re going to [Carlos] Miele tonight,” DDonnaonna DONNA’S MEGA-DAY: Before and Balenciaga and Baby Phat on Thursday. OK, great, but Karan’s throwing herself into her two where’s the rest of them? Is New York over? “I don’t think it’s polkadot fashion shows this week, Donna over,” Eve said. “Maybe all the celebrities are just away?” sequins Karan did her thing at Bergdorf on tulle Goodman. The designer visited AT LAST: Finally, A-list celebrity sightings: Hilary Swank and V-neck the store last Thursday and Sarah-Jessica Parker, in her red Manolos, at Narciso dress. drummed up sales of $700,000 Rodriguez Tuesday night. in one day. “They were all different ages WHAT ABOUT SEPTEMBER?: A rumor floating around the and all different sizes, ranging from the late 20s to well into photographer’s pit on Tuesday was that Mercedes-Benz Fashion the 60s, in size two to size 14,” said Melissa Parker-Lilly, Week might be scouting out new locations away from Bryant president of Donna Karan. “We sold things that were flirty, Park for its September edition. But Fern Mallis, executive feminine and luxurious, and that made a woman feel good.” director of the event, insisted that’s “not true” and that IMG Among the bestsellers: a black wrap jersey dress with plans to keep 7th on Sixth in the park. polkadots at $2,495 (10 units sold); an eyelet poppy and ivory But the park isn’t quite as happy. strapless dress at $2,395 (12 units sold) and a black V-neck Alireza Gaelyn and Ethan Lercher, director of events for Bryant Park Restoration sequin short dress at $6,595 (nine units sold ). Cianfarani Corp., said management has been encouraging 7th on Sixth to move the shows at Bryant Park even later in the year — so AT LIBERTY: Where will apparel heavyweight Andrew Grossman much for Milan or Paris. turn up next? Almost two years ago, Grossman started a low- “We would encourage them to move the event to late profile consulting gig at Liz Claiborne, to help invigorate the October or early November,” he said. “Anything to improve merchandise and probably provide some intelligence on Jones access to our park patrons, which is the public. We would love New York, where he was once a senior executive. Sources say it if it did get moved later.” the arrangement with Claiborne was recently severed. Claiborne isn’t commenting, still keeping everything hush-hush. Besides STAR TRACK: Musings from celebs around the shows. Jones, Grossman’s held top jobs at Giorgio Armani Corp. and Claire Danes was ready to find the Oscar dress of her Chaus. dreams on Monday night at the Marc Jacobs show, though maybe Narciso Rodriguez will get the call. “I’ve only been to the GLITZ OVERLOAD: Who isn’t doing a jewelry line these days? The Oscars once and I wore Narciso,” said Danes. “It was great latest personality to get into the jewelry biz is Leon Hall, a host because I was only 17 and he didn’t push me to appear more of Style Network’s “Fashion Emergency.” Hall, who has been womanly than I was comfortable with.” making the rounds at fashion shows this week, has designed a Like Cameron Diaz’s Emanuel Ungaro Oscar gown and Renée collection of 12 pieces of 14-karat gold that includes earrings, Zellweger’s lemon yellow vintage number, Danes hoped to find rings, necklaces and bracelets, to be sold on QVC starting something “glamorous, playful, sophisticated and unique.” Thursday. The pieces, selling for between $36 to $200, are The Strokes, New York’s homegrown rockers, have the good- produced by Luxe, a New York manufacturer. boy rep. But band member Albert Hammond, who sat in the Marc Jacobs front row with bassist Nickolai Fraiture and his TIME BOMB: Staffers at Time Inc., which publishes magazines girlfriend Amanda de Cadenet, proved he can talk trash just like like In Style and People, remain on edge. Despite the Ozzy Osbourne. So just why did the boys come to the show? “To company’s insistence that there is no unilateral plan for a look at all the [rhymes with wussy]!” reduction in force on the staff, firings and attrition seem to be De Cadenet felt otherwise. “You’re not really going to write happening all over the place. The most recent string of that down, are you?” she asked. departures comes at Fortune, where in the last few weeks, five senior-level staffers have gone. Among them are Julianne MR. MOM: It was old-home week at the Anne Klein fashion Slovak, the chief of reporters, Brian O’Reilly, who was on the show Tuesday, with former owners Tomio Taki and Frank Mori board of editors, and senior writer Eryn Brown. That follows seated in the audience. senior-level exits at Teen People and People Magazine over the “John [Idol] invited me, and I thought it was very well done. last few weeks, at least two of whom had been with the The clothes will do immensely well in the stores,” said Mori, company for more than 15 years. Spokespeople for Fortune who, along with Taki, sold Anne Klein to Kasper ASL in 1999. and Time, Inc. declined comment.

criminal lineup, was intended to showcase their elegant Alison jewel-thief theme. Looks ranged from a dressy utility skirt Miller, and jacket to a velvet evening dress laced with fake gems. The Miller Tale here, There were lots of vintage-style details — like the pretty and bird embroidery scattered on coats — which are a The notions of fashion as art or art as fashion often seem forced, but for Alison her trademark of the Joneses, who have been in business for Miller, they’re a blending of two loves. fall three-and-a-half years. Some things didn’t work, such as An avid painter who studied painting in Italy and has a fine arts degree from Cornell, the layered beaded scarf over pants, which was too heavy, Miller always had her eye on the fashion world, as well as on the canvas. After complet- looks and the unattractive brocades. But for a first show, it was a ing an accelerated degree program at New York’s Fashion Institute of Technology, she good effort, and this duo is worth watching. decided to launch a new collection under the label AlidioMichelli (a combination of her name and her husband’s). Gaelyn and Cianfarani: With the sponsorship of PETA, East Miller feels that the transition from painting to fashion is a natural one, and it shows Village designers Genevieve Gaelyn and Atom Cianfarani up to best advantage in her attention to cut and detail, as well as her innovative use of showed their fall collection, “Couture with a Cause,” on fabrics and leathers. Alison says she attempts to give “a sculptural feel to the movement Tuesday. Their approach was innovative, splicing gauzy of the clothes” and uses “fabrics as surfaces to be manipulated.” Accordingly, she uses cotton with strips of black rubber that came via New pleated leather in all sorts of configurations, as well as glazed lace and a gauzy silk fila- York’s Recycle-a-Bicycle, a nonprofit organization that ment. teaches teens how to repair bicycles. Strips of tire rubber Miller also has a penchant for the dramatic, and the clothes often suffer from made up spliced pants or detailed a romantic ruffled an overdose of artsiness. But there also are simpler pieces here: beautifully shaped dress, which also featured a simple rubber rosette. Of pantsuits, tailored shirts and sleek black leather coats, the best of which has a course, this soon became a little — you guessed it — tired. pleated band running down its front and spine. But then Gaelyn and Cianfarani showed off their The 40-piece collection, which will be produced in Italy, is expected to retail from latex gear, made from the naughty stuff that’s their $275 to $4,000. Several top retailers have already checked out the new designer, includ- preferred medium. One after another, out came ing Joan Kaner of Neiman Marcus who said, “The fabrics are exquisite, the workmanship dresses variously ruffled and draped, or simply is great and the fit, especially for a first collection, looked good. But I think she adds a bit stretched taut and vampy like Barbie clothes cut from too much drama to the clothes.” a Fruit Roll-up. While the show’s excruciatingly slow And Janet Brown, who spotted some Oscar-night dresses in the collection, said, pace left some grumbling about cruelty to editors, “Alison spent a great deal of time and effort to bring an artistic approach to her every look, down to the belled latex wedding dress, fashion collection. And she studied it beautifully.”

was well-made and intriguing. TURNER DAVID AND MITRA ROBERT IANNACCONE, THOMAS FLEISHMAN, LAUREN CHINSEE, GEORGE CENTENO, TALAYA BY PHOTOS 14 In the Mainstream Caught Up in the Race for Speed

Continued from page 4 younger in mentality, even if she’s 35- to 55-years old, totally right because business is very tough and they don’t and will wear something trendier like satin cargo pants Nine West want to be committed six months out,” Ruzow said, for day, Holtzman said. adding that retailers want to order about one to two “Fashion is turning quickly and stores don’t want to plan months later than they’ve done historically. “They want to out. What they want to do is test something in a small way be four months out. The trendier the lines, the closer the and check the trends,” he said. “What’s so compelling is you lead times. But Sag Harbor buyers are starting fall now.” have these magazines like In Style and Lucky and suddenly

WWD, WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 12, 2003 WWD, WEDNESDAY, The company has slashed one month out of Sag women are reading it as a bible. And if the bible says a trend Harbor’s production time to about five months, he noted. is coming, that means everyone better be on board with this “It’s not great, but it’s a step in the right direction,” item very quickly, otherwise sit with antiquated goods. Ruzow said. “When you’re six months out, you’re going to “They’re not getting their information looking at a miss trends. The only people who will be right on are $5,000 coat in Vogue. Women aren’t buying wardrobes, those that can turn in eight to 10 weeks like ABS or Briggs they’re buying items, whether it’s satin cargo pants or [the moderate pants company acquired by Kellwood last blouson jackets.” week]. For big companies like Sag Harbor, where we’re Since retailers are holding out on their orders, making 45 million orders a year, it’s a lot harder to take a Holtzman said he’s cut his production time from nine month out of the production process. Whereas, with a jun- months to six months. In addition, he reserves about 30 ior brand like My Michelle, where we do a lot of domestic percent of his business to react quickly to suddenly emerg- production, it’s easier.” ing trends, turning the product in about four to five weeks. From a retailer’s perspective, Frank Doroff, “You have to predict a trend quickly, and yes, the trend Bloomingdale’s executive vice president of ready-to-wear, usually comes from sources like the Guccis of the world said the days of predicting consumer behavior and writ- or vintage,” he said. “But you have to get it into work ing orders seven months ahead of time are over. quickly and then produce. And most larger stores have “It’s a different way of running the business. It’s diffi- developed their own private label so we almost have to cult. It’s hard to be right,” Doroff said. “It’s always good, make things they haven’t even thought of yet.” though, to have forward merchandise on the floor. We’re Meanwhile, at better-to-bridge company Ballinger trying to improve the receipt flow and not become so Gold, president Thomas Burns said retailers coming in front loaded. Because a lot of times you’ll bring in 65 per- now are not interested in fall, they’re interested in what’s cent of receipts in the third quarter and 35 percent in the going on now. fourth quarter, and when the business breaks down 50-50 “They’re not buying. They’ll take whatever basics they in sales, the front-load receipt is not good for anybody. feel they have to have, but when it comes to fashion [The bottom line is] consumers are waiting to buy because pieces, they’re waiting and delaying those purchases,” he they think they will be able to buy on sale.” said, whose company sells to Nordstrom, Bloomingdale’s, The focus on being speedier is ultimately being driven Saks Fifth Avenue and Neiman Marcus. “Actually, the by the consumer, who’s immersed with a wealth of infor- longer we can wait and truly validate what the trends will mation designed to cater to developing her personal style be, the better off we are. If we can hold out, then turn on a while fitting her budget, said Bernard Holtzman, presi- faster time, the better. dent of Harvé Benard. “There’s just so much uncertainty today that people Adding to this scenario is a consumer that’s getting are delaying decisions, but when they’re ready to buy you 15 Consumer WEDNESDAY,WWD, 2003 12, FEBRUARY have to be able to produce and deliver Jassin O’Rourke Group, a management Harvé Benard the product when they want it. This also and marketing consulting firm, said he places more pressure on the manufac- thinks a shift in thinking is already tak- turers because we have to stick our neck ing place as companies address their lo- out.” gistics issues and examine ways to im- Attitudes Liz Claiborne Inc. also has had suc- prove speed to market. t Lord & Taylor Tuesday morning, just a cess by quickening its production calen- “Fashion has two purposes,” Jassin Afew blocks away from the action at the dar. Through its Liz Quick program, it has said. “One, it’s what you want to show in Bryant Park tents, WWD asked customers shortened the cycle time from design to the windows, the presentation of the fu- perusing the store’s sportswear department sales floor to 14 weeks for certain fashion ture. But it’s really what’s current, what whether they knew Fashion Week was products. Paul Charron, chairman and people want, and the danger is if things taking place and their thoughts on apparel. ceo, has credited the program for helping are in the stores too long, people don’t Here’s what two of them said: Claiborne achieve strong earnings in a want to react to it. It won’t sell at full down market for apparel. For the nine price. I’m not sure people are knocking LINDA FINNERTY months ended Sept. 28, income was up 15 off designers, but they’re knocking off re- Age: Around 50 percent to $173.2 million, or $1.62 a dilut- tail. Sales are proven and they’re look- Home: Centerport, N.Y. ed share, from $150.6 million, or $1.43, ing at what’s selling in Asia, Europe and Job: Marketing and advertising for the last year. Sales increased 6.3 percent to what’s selling at Ann Taylor, rather than financial business. $2.72 billion from $2.56 billion. the runway.” Aware of Fashion Week: “Yes, I think it’s Jamie Gorman, vice president of sales The issue might just be one of the last fantastic for New York City because it’s the at Ninety, a moderate brand that caters frontiers that has not yet been thoroughly fashion capital of the world. It’s exciting to to the young misses’ customer, said her tackled by apparel businesses, said see the tents and I am interested in seeing team can produce in three to five weeks Emanuel Weintraub, a consultant based in what the new fashions are.” because it has 10 factories in Brooklyn. Fort Lee, N.J., who is chairing a seminar Favorite designers: “I like Liz Claiborne, However, its typical production cycle is under the topic “Collapsing the Design Tahari and Jones. I love St. John, but I can’t just two months. Gorman said by always and Product Development Cycle” April 8 wear it. And I like Eileen Fisher, but I tend sending new merchandise to stores, it at the Princeton Club in Manhattan. to stay in the lower end of the spectrum.” helps in another way: to maintain a “People have worked on logistics, dis- Style inspiration: “My daughter. In fact, she healthy margin. tribution, emulating the retail model — would kill me if she knew I was shopping “It sounds kind of cliché, but my peo- well now, what is it that we’ve left un- without her right now. She lives for fashion.” ple are really looking for newness — and touched? It’s how do we stay in touch with Thoughts on Lord & Taylor’s sportswear that’s true,” Gorman said, whose busi- our consumer,” Weintraub said. “In some assortment: “Today I don’t like the ness also does about 25 percent private cases, when fall 2003 hits the market, [de- presentation, but I love this store. Everything label. “So, if something is hot and hap- signers] are working on fall 2004. Well, we is hodgepodged together. There’s a lot of pening, I cut and ship in 10 days.” say that’s wrong. We are being driven by sales right now, but a lot of it is junk. And She noted that some importers are what the consumer wants and apparel I’m planning a ski trip right now, so I’m not shifting production from Asia to Mexico should be like a water faucet you want to really interested in spring and summer. It’s or the Caribbean to cur lead times. turn on, but don’t want to turn off.” just too far ahead. I’ll look, though.” If being faster falls under the new Companies that are successful at ac- umbrella of thinking between retailers celerating the design process from cre- SUE LADONNA The Cycle and manufacturers, August Silk presi- ativity through production will have a Age: 46 dent Lou Breuning said he also thinks competitive edge, Weintraub said. For Home: Upstate New York typical calendar for most sportswear another aspect of this involves changing most companies, it takes about nine to Job: Retired from restaurant services. Acompanies, from idea to reality, is nine to 11 the thinking about what should be in 13 months to complete the cycle — from Aware of Fashion Week: “No, I didn’t know months. The goal for most companies: Five to six stores and when. For example: extend idea to reality, and Weintraub said that it was Fashion Week. I’m not really into it. months. Here’s an example of a time line that a the summer season with new doses of is just too long. He suggested companies I’m pretty much just a Ralph Lauren sportswear company might follow for fall: merchandise rather than feature heavy shoot for a five- to six-month cycle time. customer. In fact, everything I have on, fall goods when no one is ready for fall “They will be able to come to market except my sneakers (Reebok), is Ralph — September 2002: Designers start — not even the weather, Breuning said. closer to when buyers want to buy and even my socks. I’m a walking advertisement sketching concepts. “We have to be more proactive to the be more in tune to the partnership be- for him.” (She was wearing the designer’s October 2002: Designers finalize their key ideas. seasonal calendar. The consumer is re- tween the retailer and the vendor sup- licensed brand Lauren as well as Polo.) November 2002: Designers are reviewing samples, sponding closer to season more than plier,” he said. “Whether it’s apparel or Thoughts on fashion: “I just like Ralph called protosamples. ever,” he said. “I don’t want to start ship- autos, the consumer says, ‘Be in touch Lauren for the style, fit, quality and price.” December 2002-February 2003: Final samples are ping fall colors in May and June, which is with my needs’ and ‘I want it fast.’ The So you’d want to go to Ralph’s show? “He in-hand and start showing to retailers. traditionally what we do in transition, calendars are just too long.” has a fashion show? I guess so. I would March through June 2003: Production process begins but why not expand the season into more “Everyone is talking about speed,” attend any fashion show.” with garments being made. This final step involves applicable styling and summer fabrics Weintraub added. “How do you get me — Kristin Larson color standards, fit and lab approvals, production that the customer is more likely to wear through the checkout lane faster? Cash Editor’s Note: This is the launch of an specs and died bulk yarns, among others. now? Retailers are starting to listen. All my check faster? By reducing the cycle occasional feature gauging consumer July-August 2003: Goods are shipped to stores. of us are readjusting our thinking.” time, it’s also going to satisfy the needs attitudes to stores and collections. Andrew Jassin, managing director of of the buying departments.”

C HERCHEZ LA FEMME FIND HER NOW

ELIZABETH HURLEY 16 WWD, WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 12, 2003 square feetofexhibitionspace. 97,000 in part take to agreed have exhibitors 329 far, So fairground. Milan the at White and Modit as dates same the MilanoVendeModaon present will Enterprises, Commercial of Milan’sUnion for fairs organizes pected tonumber200. ex- September,are last launched was which White, and Modit at exhibitors that said Ciocca, Luigi president, Efima’s Tortona.Via in space exhibition owned ently independ- an Più, Superstudio the at held be will Both 3. March to 28 Feb. from fair White ting trend-set- Efima’s alongside show Modit its present to is Italia, Moda Sistema association ers’ manufactur- Milan-based the for ing bodies,EfimaandExpoCTS. organiz- its between agreement dis- a following two in split has show market bridge women’s — MILAN By Valerie Waterhouse Moda Milano Market Splits “ fair to move elsewhere in the city.the in elsewhere move to fair the want not did and system fashion Milan the to central remain must Modit and MilanoVendeModaand Modit which CTS, Expo Meanwhile, organizer fair trade the Efima, We believe that the Milan fairground Milan the that Webelieve The Moda Milano Moda The — Armando Mammina, Expo CTS stock exchange. Milan the on quoted is which Spa, Milano Fiera owner ground fair- Milan the in shares has and antiques, and travel cluding in- sectors, business other for way shows.” run- the among moving difficulty enough have city.already Buyers the in elsewhere move to fair the want not did and system ion fash- Milan the to central remain must fairground Milan the that believe “We said: CTS, Expo of longer compatible.” no were heading be should MoMi where about ideas Our table. the on note [metaphorical] a find to home came we Christmas, “AroundCiocca. said working,” longer no was CTS Expo and dissolved. been has Italia, Moda mozione Pro- body, promotional MoMi’s split, the Since show. MoMi the form to 1990 in united fairs two the but Sixties, the in began As the separation is so recent, so is separation the As fairs organizes also CTS Expo director Mammina, Armando Efima between marriage “The ” designer-artist SusanCianciolo. fashion U.S. by installation an lect thesenewnames.” se- helped have Nichols Harvey and Bendel Henri from Buyers 0-Zone. called section new a in show will names emerging 10 and Closet, The section, luxury made custom- the in show will panies com- 10 addition, “In said. mina Mam- 40,” to section Light ting trend-set- our in exhibitors of ber some edgierlooks. hosted also fair the apparel, bridge quality classic, featured stands the of half around though show.Al- MoMi September’s last as lines same the along continue anoVendeModawill percent stakeinPitti. 15 a has SMI the while Efima, of percent 15 owns now ciation asso- manufacturers’ Florentine The said. fair,Ciocca new the en Pitti, shouldalsohelptostrength- is body organizing fair whose Italiana, Moda la per Firenze di Centro association, facturers’ manu- Florence-based the and classics toformalwear,” hesaid. women’swear, to sportswear from high-end to middle- of pects as- other represent will Modit offer aglimpseofwhat’sahead. will edition February-March the where Moditisheading.However, of picture true a get to edition 2003 fall the to look must hibitors ex- and buyers that said Ciocca Collateral events will include will events Collateral num- the double to hope “We Mil- Mammina, to According SMI between agreement An show, trend a is White “While nOUVEAUcOLLECTIVE Sunday 9a-9p Sunday Complimentary Shuttle Bus Shuttle Complimentary www.nouveaucollectivetradeshows.com Service to the Show Piers Show the to Service Showrooms New YorkNew Showrooms Information/Call February 22-25, 2003 22-25, February 7th Ave at 56th Street 56th at Ave 7th 914.736.0030 Saturday - Tuesday- Saturday call 800.346.1359 call Park Central Hotel Central Park Saturday 9a-6p Saturday Monday 9a-6p Monday Tuesday9a-6p Show Hours: Show Open VenueOpen Buyers Rate Buyers LIFESTYLE SHOWLIFESTYLE $134 ✧✧✧ ✧✧✧ worth upto$500million. be to thought is deal The tem. Sys- Retirement Employees’ lic Pub- California the and Partners MacFarlaneFrancisco-basedfirm San the to complex the of portion retail the of percent 49.5 sell to agreed have Advisors Estate Real Apollo partner and Cos. Related inownership. periencing ashift ex- is construction, under still is WarnerTime AOL Center, which — YORK NEW AOL Time Warner Center Stake Sold these of extensions to-customer direct- the positioning effectively in made been has that progress the by encouraged been have we and retailing, in strongest the among are brands dale’s in anylayoffs,Federated said. result not will Direct Federated to reported that businesses remaining the of alignment re- The business. the with losses suffering after assets Fingerhut its off sold Federatedyear, Last operation. catalog Fingerhut the acquired Federated after Direct, whichisbeingphasedout. Federated of umbrella the under operated both Previously, sions. divi- namesake respective their under operate to realigned being are businesses Macys.com the and catalog Mail By Bloomingdale’s its that Tuesday said Stores ment — YORK NEW Federated’s Direct Action ✧ ✧ ✧ ✧ ✧ “We brought in long-term insti- long-term “Wein brought The developers estate Real Blooming- and Macy’s “The formed was FederatedDirect (late night shopping) night (late Federated Depart- Federated The sprawling The West presidentMichaelJ.Osborn. Macy’s to report will Macys.com, of Tonyative services Spring. cre- and promotion sales keting, mar- of president vice executive and Holman Ed president dale’s Blooming- to report will Direct, Bloomingdale’s of president Weiglein, Franz 1982. in erations op- catalog began it where dale’s, Blooming- into integrated be will 75 of staff its and Mail By dale’s the departmentstores.” of strategies marketing the with channels direct-to-customer these aligning closely more in potential greater is there believe now we foundation, strong this tablished es- “Having statement. a in ficer, of- operating chief and president Federated’s Lundgren, J. Terry said objective,” this to dedicated specifically division a of brella um- the under brands national aren’t affected,saidBurger. rin Manda- and AOL The Tourneau. and Haan Exchange,Cole Armani Boss, Hugo as retailers such house will Circle Columbus at Shops The called complex retail story ident atRelated Cos. Burger,Marty executive pres- vice said term,” long the for Center Warner Time AOL the of ponent com- garage and office retail, the maintain and equity our of some return to order in capital tutional Also, Kent Anderson, president KentAnderson, Also, Blooming- 1, March Effective The 347,000-square-foot, seven- 347,000-square-foot, The Oriental Hotel complexes Hotel Oriental 17 Dueling Proposals Fracture Dallas Fashion Industry WEDNESDAY,WWD, 2003 12, FEBRUARY

fashion center with a distinct the tower’s 31 floors. By Holly Haber Some reps in Dallas identity coupled with retail “I don’t feel threatened by it,” DALLAS — The wholesale market stores, restaurants and other Winsor said. “Anytime anybody favor a move to the here might be headed for a split. amenities in an urban area. announces a competing environ- World Trade Center, The competition between two “I’m totally into the downtown ment, it creates a distraction, but owned by Dallas proposals to move the fashion in- group,” affirmed Cynthia O’Con- there are too many issues with Market Center. dustry out of the International Ap- nor, an accessories rep who is respect to that project for it to be parel Mart has intensified as sales based in New York but has a satel- a viable alternative. The barriers reps are dividing into camps. lite showroom in Dallas. “They are pretty dramatic.” Several of the largest firms at are forward thinkers, they are But Paul Stell and Luke Cros- the Mart support moving the going to get it done, and they are land, the lead developers master- fashion industry into the nearby open-minded and passionate minding the downtown project, World Trade Center in March about it.” are pressing ahead. They have 2004 as planned by the Dallas Other sales reps favoring the made pitches to makers in New Market Center Co., which owns downtown proposal include York and Los Angeles, and they and operates the sprawling cam- Federico Mariel, Julie Hall, Pam plan to address concerns about pus that houses the Mart, the Martin and Summer Paillet. logistics and management at a WTC and other buildings. They “The contemporary group is meeting here next Tuesday. say the format is more conducive on board,” Mariel said. A key question centers on to doing business for buyers and The two proposals were made where sales reps would house wholesalers than the alternative to Mart tenants within three days their offices and markets in be- skyscraper proposal. of each other in late January. tween the Apparel Mart’s closing tail developer, as consultants. that the downtown proposal “My customers are excited Since then, the Dallas Market in March 2004 and the Mercantile “We want everyone to know would not score well. about it for ease of shopping in a Center has received more than building being ready for occu- there is an alternative,” Stell said. “The biggest concern I have condensed marketplace, and 500 faxes from tenants requesting pancy as Fashion District Dallas Bud Konheim, chief executive [with the Mercantile proposal] is that’s what we’re in business for,” space in the WTC, said Bill in September 2005. officer of Nicole Miller, said he’s that it is a vertical building, and said Brad Hughes, whose epony- Winsor, president and chief exec- The developers are working ready to try the downtown center. one of the reasons ENK Coterie mous business is one of the utive officer. In most cases, ten- with their architect to move reps “The Dallas market is very vi- and Intermezzo are as successful largest tenants in the Mart. ants do not need to sign new leas- into temporary showrooms in a able, but we have to find a place as they are is because they are Principals of three other big es since their current contracts at building that is connected to the that people really enjoy, that is a horizontal,” theorized Brad Ritz. rep firms — Ritz Group, Navia- the Apparel Mart can be trans- tower, Stell said. Their original real experience,” he said. “If they He also said that moving a Plott & Associates and GeNe ferred to the WTC. plan had been to tear down this can make it a user-friendly expe- business twice in order to be Sales — have also said they pre- “The amount of space required adjacent structure. They also rience in Dallas, then my experi- downtown was cost prohibitive, fer the WTC. is 5 to 7 percent greater than we have hired Herbert Mines & ence with ENK and the Coterie and that a split in the market But the maverick proposition anticipated, so we are trying to Associates to recruit experi- tells me they are going to be a would weaken the Dallas industry. from developers to build a new make room,” he pointed out. enced fashion executives for howling success. People like to go “If 20 percent of this building fashion district downtown across Winsor dismissed the rival three positions at the complex: where they enjoy themselves. If I decides to go downtown, they from Neiman Marcus has gained plan to convert the historic Mer- manager, merchandiser and get that in Dallas, I start thinking won’t survive,” Ritz predicted. supporters, especially among cantile Bank building into a marketer. The two developers that all of South America could “We can’t afford to fragment this sales representatives with con- wholesale complex, citing prob- previously contracted Gerald be serviced by Dallas if they have thing. Ultimately, we all need to temporary apparel and trendy lems with parking, asbestos Sampson, former president of fun going there.” work together for the benefit of accessory lines. They like the abatement and insufficient ele- Neiman Marcus, and Henry S. Ironically, other reps cited the our customers and the survival promise of a progressive new vators to transport buyers among Miller 3rd, a leading Dallas re- Coterie’s logistics as evidence of our businesses here.” 18 Buffett Ignites Battle fo

Continued from page one (Remember his warnings about the dot-com boom?) Now he’s The Buffett Table going as low tech as possible — BERKSHIRE HATHAWAY SUBSIDIARIES on Tuesday, Berkshire and Burlington executed a definitive APPAREL, ACCESSORIES AND FOOTWEAR:

WWD, WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 12, 2003 WWD, WEDNESDAY, agreement for Berkshire to ac- Ben Bridge Jeweler Garan Inc. quire Burlington in a transac- tion that would put about $579 Borsheim’s Fine Jewelry H.H. Brown Shoe Co. million in the pockets of the Dexter Shoe Co. Helzberg Diamonds bankrupt mill’s creditors. Fruit of the Loom Justin Brands But Buffett isn’t alone in his attraction to Burlington. Also Fechheimer Bros. Co. Lowell Shoe Co. squaring off in what could be- come a battle is bankruptcy OTHER: baron Wilbur Ross. Complicating Acme Brick Co. MidAmerican Energy Holdings Co. matters further, Robert Lee of Sheffield Merchant Banking, the Benjamin Moore & Co. MiTek Inc. financial adviser to Burlington’s Berkshire Hathaway Group National Indemnity Co. unsecured creditors’ committee, Berkshire Hathaway Homestates Cos. Nebraska Furniture Mart believes that the sum of Burling- Buffalo NEWS, Buffalo NY NetJets ton’s pieces could possibly bring in more to creditors than the Central States Indemnity Co. The Pampered Chef company kept in its entirety. CORT Business Services Precision Steel Warehouse The clash emerged Tuesday CTB Inc. R.C. Willey Home Furnishings when Greensboro, N.C.-based FlightSafety Scott Fetzer Cos. Burlington chose Berkshire Hathaway as its white knight. GEICO Direct Auto Insurance See’s Candies Under the Berkshire agreement, General Re Shaw Industries secured creditors would be paid International Dairy Queen, Inc. Star Furniture in full, while unsecured credi- tors would get a return of be- Johns Manville United States Liability Insurance Group tween 34 and 35 percent on Jordan’s Furniture XTRA Corporation their claims in the form of cash Larson-Juhl and certain other assets. Exist- ing shareholders would see their shares extinguished. BUFFETT’S OTHER FASHION INVESTMENTS INCLUDE: Burlington, which filed its 2.5 million shares, or 1.9 percent, of Jones Apparel 6 million shares, or 2.3 percent of Nike Chapter 11 petition in Delaware 15 million shares, or about 1.5 percent, of Gap 334,200 shares, or 0.3 percent of Liz Claiborne on Nov. 15, 2001, would become a wholly owned subsidiary of SOURCE: BERKSHIRE HATHAWAY REPORTS, SECURITIES AND EXCHANGE COMMISSION FILINGS Berkshire, assuming there are no higher offers during a manda- tory bankruptcy court auction. A Burlington break-up could Burlington will go forth as a company with no debt, talented and deplete its workforce of about “ 7,600 even further, and add to dedicated management, and a workforce second to none. the considerable woes of the — Warren” Buffett, Berkshire Hathaway U.S. textile industry, which last year watched more players suc- go forth as a company with no And a fuss over who wins Ross’s private equity firm WL George Henderson 3rd, chairman cumb to bankruptcy and its em- debt, talented and dedicated Burlington is pretty much guar- Ross & Co. manages funds that and chief executive officer of ployment ranks shrink an addi- management, and a workforce anteed: Wilbur Ross told WWD are owed $81 million of Burling- Burlington, could not be reached tional 21,000 to 425,000. second to none. It will be a com- Tuesday that he will make a sec- ton unsecured bonds and ac- for comment, but a statement is- Buffett said in a statement: pany designed for success.” ond play for Burlington. crued interest of $1.4 million, as sued by Burlington and Berk- “Only the very strong will survive The court auction could get “We believe that our bid is well as $7 million of Burlington shire noted that the Berkshire in the textile industry — strong interesting. Berkshire’s bid pro- considerably superior to the bid bank debt. offer would leave Burlington in management, strong in worker vides a baseline for valuating put forward by Berkshire Hatha- Ross built his reputation dur- debt-free, other than customary skills and strong in financial the Burlington operation but, way, and therefore, if the compa- ing his 24-year stint at Roths- liabilities and certain pre-peti- strength. Burlington brings the with Berkshire as the stalking ny does try to seek approval child Inc., where he demonstrat- tion obligations. The bulk of its first two resources to a success- horse, other firms might want to based on the current play, we in- ed a shrewd eye for value among $1.1 billion of liabilities prior to ful reorganization; Berkshire see what the Buffett-amplified tend to rigorously oppose it,” the firms headed toward the grave- its filing will be repaid, with the brings the latter. Burlington will fuss is all about. financier said. yard. He left two years ago, balance eliminated through the founded his own firm and is now bankruptcy process. also chairman of Burlington’s Henderson said of the Berk- unsecured creditors’ committee. shire agreement in a statement, Earlier in the day, before the “This is a very positive outcome Industry Applauds Buffett’s Interest in Textile Sector Berkshire deal was announced, for the company, our employees By Joshua Greene Manufacturers Institute, said he found the move en- Ross proposed financing that and our creditors. Over the last couraging and is hopeful that Buffett has faith in the re- would have enabled Burlington year our efforts have increased NEW YORK — Hurray! maining sectors of the domestic industry. to emerge in a stand-alone plan the value of our company and al- The U.S. textile industry gave Warren Buffett’s arrival “He’s got a record of acquiring companies that are of reorganization. The plan lowed us to achieve a significant on the scene a major thumbs up Tuesday. The move gives undervalued,” said Nicholas Hahn, founder and manag- called for Burlington’s $28 mil- level of return for our creditors industry executives confidence there is potential to re- ing director of Hahn International Ltd., a textile consult- lion of administrative claims and despite extraordinarily chal- build the long-downtrodden sector — but they acknowl- ing firm. “Though I don’t know his game plan, he must $439 million in secured debt to lenging conditions in our indus- edged that Buffett is far from the industry’s white knight. feel there’s latent value to be realized in the industry be paid in full from cash on hand, try and the capital markets.” “Burlington should be one of the survivors of the when the economy turns around. He doesn’t usually plus $250 million of new debt. Henderson also noted how U.S. textile industry,” said Gail Strickler, president of jump in where fools tread.” In addition, Ross’s plan pro- other firms have emerged from the Textile Distributors Association. “I think Warren Hahn noted that during Burlington’s latest reorgani- vides that $300 million of bonds bankruptcy with excessive debt, Buffett rarely makes bad decisions and he’s getting the zation plan, the company began outsourcing much of its and other unsecured claims only to be faced with renewed company for a steal.” production to overseas facilities. Hahn said he ques- would be exchanged for 57 per- fiscal problems. In addition, he Berkshire Hathaway also owns Fechheimer Brothers tioned whether Buffett found potential in the U.S. textile cent of the stock of the reorgan- noted that Ross’s plan did not Co., a leading uniform manufacturer for the public safe- industry or the outsourcing business strategy, with an in- ized company. Bond holders allow for Burlington to emerge ty, postal, military, corrections, and transportation mar- house focus on marketing and product development. would be issued transferable from bankruptcy debt-free. kets. Meanwhile, Burlington specializes in wool and poly- Bill Ghitis, president of global apparel at DuPont rights to subscribe for 43 per- The Ross plan was contin- ester-wool blends used in career apparel and uniforms. Textiles and Interiors, said the acquisition is a purpose- cent of the stock for $85 million. gent upon Burlington obtaining “He could probably be his biggest customer,” said ful strategy for Berkshire Hathaway since they’ve taken Unsecured creditors would re- new debt. In addition, secured Strickler. “Some of the uniform divisions in Burlington an interest in textile and apparel companies in recent ceive proceeds from the sale of creditors would get repaid in are by far the leaders in that area. I think he’s smart years, such as Fechheimer Bros. and Fruit of the Loom. nonoperating assets valued at cash, but unsecured creditors enough to know the U.S. market is limited, but under- “If Mr. Buffett thinks there is money to be made in between $20 million and $25 would only get stock in a reor- stands the potential impact of a U.S.-based global com- textiles, it makes me feel good,” said Ghitis. “It makes million. Ross would become the ganized Burlington. pany that understands its market [from the inside].” sense to me and I think it will bring more confidence to majority shareholder. Henderson said in the state- Parks Shackelford, president of the American Textile the business. Maybe there will be some followers.” Buffett and representatives at ment that the company isn’t rul-

PHOTO BYPHOTO SABA GIORDANO/CORBIS A J Berkshire declined comment. ing out a revisit to the Ross 19 WWD, WEDNESDAY,WWD, 2003 12, FEBRUARY Tariff Elimination Debate Intensifies Continued from page 4 on apparel and textiles would be years of FTAA negotiations is un- eliminated as early as 2010. certain. Even the target implemen- Another challenge facing the do- tation date of 2005 is uncertain. mestic industry is the elimination for Burlington The Bush administration is of quotas on apparel among the 145 still optimistic, however. WTO nations by 2005. Despite these “First, in the goods sector the challenges, the domestic textile in- plan, but that would also depend on bidding Other outright purchases now under the U.S. is proposing to eliminate all dustry is split on trade liberaliza- procedures set by the bankruptcy court and Berkshire umbrella include, in July 2000, Ben tariffs by 2015,” said U.S. Trade tion under the FTAA. other variables. Bridge Jeweler, a 65-store West Coast retailer. Representative Robert Zoellick The American Textile Manu- A Burlington spokeswoman said that proce- According to Berkshire’s 2000 annual report, at a press conference Tuesday. facturers Institute, seeking to in- dures would be set up to allow others the op- Buffett heard about the jewelry chain through “For textiles and apparel, we’ll crease exports in the region, will portunity to bid for Burlington. She declined to Barnett Helzberg, from whom Berkshire bought be even bolder.” support the negotiations if three specify how many proposals the company en- Helzberg Diamonds in 1995. Another July 2000 Zoellick said it is crucial to conditions are met, according to tertained before deciding on Berkshire’s, or acquisition was Justin Industries, which makes improve the efficiencies between Charles Bremer, vice president of whether the company has received any indica- Western boots under the brand names Justin, the U.S. and Latin American tex- international trade at the ATMI. tion of forthcoming bids during the auction. Tony Lama, Nocona and Chippewa. Earlier ac- tile and apparel industries be- He said the association will Ross said he’s not aware of Burlington pur- quisitions include Borsheim’s Fine Jewelry, cause China is expected to be a push the administration to nego- suing a “systematic” shopping process, or even Dexter Shoe Co., H.H. Brown Shoe Co. and “fierce” competitor in 2005, once tiate yarn-forward rules of origin, of other proposals. “I’m not aware of any other Lowell Shoe Co. all quotas are removed among complete reciprocity in tariff bids,” Ross said. “There has been no shopping Other fashion firms that have held Buffett’s the 145 countries of the World phaseout schedules and the elim- of the company, which indicates to me a very interest are those classified as stock investments Trade Organization. ination of nontariff barriers, Draconian set of bidding rules that were fol- — purchases of shares of firms such as Liz “Our apparel and textile quo- which is a tall order. lowed. They made it impossible for a third Claiborne, Jones Apparel Group and Gap. tas come off in 2004,” he said. “We would like to sell products party to bid for the firm. We think that this is Obviously, whether it’s companies Berkshire “Part of the reason we are trying to South America without run- wrong. We’re already bidding more than owns outright or those that are solely investment to move on this is to create a ning into high tariffs and outra- Berkshire. We don’t understand why, other interests, Buffett is attracted to names that have more integrated Americas mar- geous nontariff barriers such as than perhaps job security, management would a certain amount of brand equity among con- ket in the apparel and textile in- pre-inspection schemes and prior accept a lower bid for a higher bid. It is very sumers. Top consumer brands associated with dustries and, in our case, also deposit schemes,” said Bremer. inappropriate.” Berkshire are two that the fund owns: Benjamin with cotton producers so as to He noted that his members are Buffett’s Berkshire does have a reputation Moore Co. and The Gillette Co. It also has an in- help the efficiencies of the interested in exporting more U.S. for keeping management in place after it com- vestment interest in The Coca-Cola Co. Americas to compete with the textiles to Brazil, Argentina, pletes an acquisition. An investment banker who has worked with rest of the world.” Venezuela and Colombia. Sheffield’s Lee, whose firm provides financial Buffett on previous deals, observed, “Buffett fa- Importers were somewhat The U.S. actually has a textile advice to the unsecured creditors’ committee, vors top consumer brands because they have a positive about the U.S. proposal surplus with Mexico, which Brem- agrees with Ross. He called the Buffett deal a good name, have a good management team and on apparel and textiles. er said could be achieved with “low-ball offer relative to the value” of Burlington. generate a certain amount of consumer loyalty “Certainly, we’re supportive of South American countries if the Under the Berkshire proposal, Lee ex- for the brand. In the case of Gillette, it has a proposing going to zero in textile other conditions are met. plained, the Burlington stock is worthless, the steady customer pool to sell to because men tariffs as quickly as possible,” said The American Textile Trade bank debt gets paid in full, and there are still every day need to shave and razors need to be Julia Hughes, international vice Action Coalition, a mill/labor $400 million in trade claims and unsecured replaced. The same is true for Fruit of the president of the U.S. Association lobby group, does not support the bond debt. Loom; it is a commodity product that people of Importers of Textiles and U.S. proposal, according to Augu- “The bonds are trading around 33 cents [on need to wear.” Apparel. “There is no reason to stine Tantillo, Washington coordi- the dollar] and Buffett’s offer is 35 cents, which For the fourth quarter ended Sept. 28, drag it out, particularly when nator of ATTAC. [means there is] no premium on his bid for the Burlington reported net income of $36.1 mil- most U.S. imports from Latin “There could be some very se- unsecured claims in order to take control of the lion, or 67 cents a diluted share, compared with America are already duty free.” rious repercussions with this pro- company. Our perspective is that the value put a net loss of $76.7 million, or $1.46 a share, a She said the next big issue im- posal because you are talking forth by the Buffett proposal is inadequate,” year earlier. The income included $62.4 million porters will pursue is a flexible about Brazil presumably being the banker said. in income tax benefits, as well as $21.1 million rule of origin that allows the use part of the mix and the country Lee, who expects that higher offers could be in pretax restructuring costs. Sales were $220.9 of inputs from any member FTAA has enormous yarn, fabric and forthcoming, noted that, depending on the bid- million, down 32.5 percent. The company’s ap- country and still qualifies for apparel capacity, which has the ding process, the sum of Burlington’s parts may parel fabrics operation narrowed its deficit, duty-free treatment. potential of adversely affecting be greater than its whole valuation per Buffett. recording a $2.9 million loss before taxes, com- But that could prove to be a the [U.S.] domestic industry,” He also expects the unsecured creditors commit- pared with a $13.1 million loss in the prior-year thorny fight on Capitol Hill, ac- Tantillo said. “If you are talking tee to file an objection with the bankruptcy court, quarter. Sales at that unit fell 34.7 percent to cording to Steve Pfister, senior vice about eliminating duties on seeking a court order requiring Burlington to $107.6 million. president of government relations Brazilian textile and apparel pro- “pursue a proper divestiture process.” The company said it cut its apparel fabrics at the National Retail Federation. duction, we may not have to Should Berkshire ultimately get the winning manufacturing capacity by half this year. It has “The U.S. laid out a bold and worry about China.” nod from the bankruptcy court, Burlington will moved its apparel headquarters to Hong Kong, sweeping proposal and certainly Tantillo said the “cumulative” be the latest in a recent series of purchases for where the Burlington Worldwide division now we welcome that,” Pfister said. effect of eliminating quotas at the the investment firm run by the sage of Omaha. sells apparel fabrics manufactured at Burl- “But there is going to be a heat- end of 2004 and slashing tariffs to Last September, kids were added to Berk- ington’s plants in the U.S., Mexico and India, as ed and protracted debate over zero in various trade negotiations shire’s portfolio when the fund acquired chil- well as fabrics made under contract by inde- this [among lawmakers in the will be devastating if the U.S. dren’s clothing maker Garan Inc. in a cash deal pendent mills throughout Asia. One source in- textile caucus] unless signifi- does not insist on lowering non- valued at $270.6 million. Garan shareholders side Burlington feels that its increasingly glob- cant concessions on rules of ori- tariff barriers, which block U.S. were paid $60 a share, a 6.8 percent premium. al scope was one of the elements that appealed gin are given [to the textile in- textile exports. Also last year, in January, Berkshire re- to Buffett. dustry, which seeks very strict “We are seeing radical propos- ceived Delaware bankruptcy court approval to For the year, Burlington recorded a $100.8 rules of origin].” als like this being thrown on the buy bankrupt Fruit of the Loom for $835 mil- million net loss, which came to $1.89 a diluted The flagging domestic textile table because there are many lion. Secured creditors received 100 percent of share, deeper than the $91.1 million, or $1.73 a industry is still reeling from a re- problem areas with Brazil,” said the equity in the reorganized FTL, as well as share, deficit last year. The loss included $146.5 cent U.S. proposal to drop all tar- Tantillo. “[Bush] is trying to in- $300 million in unsecured debt. The return to million in income tax benefits and $165.8 mil- iffs on apparel and textiles crease momentum for the talks, unsecured creditors is in the range of $62.6 lion in pretax restructuring charges. Sales among 145 WTO nations by 2015. but textiles and apparel are an million, or 7.5 percent of the $835 million pur- slipped 29.2 percent to $993.3 million. Under that proposal, some tariffs enormous concession.” chase price. — With contributions from Dan Burrows

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MOHR Access, the exclusive public seminar partner for MOHR Learning, a division of Novations Group, Inc. 20 Sales Drop, Fire Depress Allou Profits Movie Star Inc. Shines NEW YORK — Slumping sales value of outstanding warrants to warehouse fire and the failure to and greater costs associated purchase the firm’s Class A com- date by the insurance companies with a warehouse fire caused mon stock. In the prior-year peri- to make prompt payment of our As 2nd-Qtr. Net Doubles Allou Healthcare Inc.’s profits od, changes in the value of those insurance claim,” said chief finan- to regress by more than a third warrants reduced net income by cial officer David Shamilzadeh in NEW YORK — Movie Star Inc. and increasing our penetra- in the third quarter. about 1 cent a share. Moreover, a statement. “What is particularly had a star-studded second quar- tion of key accounts — have gratifying is the continued ter as increased efficiency pro- resulted in persistent funda- What is particularly gratifying is the growth experienced by our man- duced an Oscar-caliber bottom- mental improvements to our “ ufacturing subsidiary, Stanford line performance. business model.” Personal Care Manufacturing, For the three months ended Gross margin for the quarter continued growth experienced by our which enjoys gross profit mar- Dec. 31, the New York-based expanded 200 basis points to gins exceeding 50 percent.” sleep- and leisurewear manu- 30.6 percent of sales from 28.6 manufacturing subsidiary, Stanford For the quarter, gross profit facturer reported net income al- percent last year. Moreover, in-

WWD, WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 12, 2003 WWD, WEDNESDAY, declined 3 percent to $15 mil- most doubled, skyrocketing 90.1 terest expense plunged 47.8 per- Personal Care Manufacturing. lion, or 9.6 percent of sales, as percent to $751,000, or 5 cents a cent to $119,000 from $228,000 a — David Shamilzadeh, Allou” Healthcare Inc. compared with last year’s $15.5 diluted share. year ago. Taken together, these million, or 9.5 percent. That compares with last factors allowed pretax income For the three months ended this year’s results were hurt by Overall, for the first nine year’s earnings of $395,000, or to shoot up 90 percent to $1.3 Dec. 31, the Brentwood, N.Y.- expenses and other factors relat- months of the year, Allou report- 3 cents. million from $659,000 in the based health and beauty distribu- ed to the previously reported ed a 45.8 percent surge in net in- Sales for the period grew 9.7 prior-year period. tor reported net income fell 33.7 warehouse fire in September. come to $6.6 million, or 77 cents percent to $16.7 million from Overall, for the first half of percent to $1.3 million, or 16 Sales for the period declined a diluted share. That compares $15.2 million a year ago. the year, Movie Star reported cents a diluted share. That com- 4 percent to $156.8 million from with last year’s profits of $4.5 Movie Star attributed the sales net income more than doubled, pares with last year’s earnings of $163.3 million a year ago. million, or 64 cents. increase to broad-based improve- expanding 104.2 percent to $1.4 $2 million, or 28 cents. Earnings “Our gross profits were squee- Sales for the period gained ment in demand for its product million, or 9 cents a share. That per share included non-operat- zed as a result of changes in our 11.5 percent to $471.1 million across all distribution channels. compares with last year’s profits ing income of approximately 11 business practices as a conse- from $422.5 million a year ago. Movie Star shares bolted of $696,000, or 5 cents. Last cents as a result of changes in the quence of the Brooklyn, N.Y., — Dan Burrows ahead 13 cents, or 17.6 percent, year’s results also included to close at 87 cents in American $43,000 in earnings from discon- Stock Exchange trading. The tinued operations. Obituary stock hit a 52-week high of 89 Sales for the period pushed cents in intraday trading. up 7.8 percent to $32.5 million “As a direct result of our from $30.1 million a year ago. Former White Stag Chairman, Rennet shift to total offshore produc- Knigin called Movie Star’s tion, we simultaneously real- outlook “very optimistic as we NEW YORK — Lawrence L. a division of Warnaco, from 1940 dent of Warnaco. He retired ized improved gross margins expect meaningful increases in Rennet, a former chairman of to 1974. He was president from from the day-to-day business as we sharpened our competi- both sales and earnings, versus White Stag, a manufacturer of 1963 to 1970, and it was during operations in 1974, but contin- tive edge,” said chief execu- last year’s second half.” women’s sportswear and ski- this period that he had been in- ued on the board of Warnaco tive officer Mel Knigin in a Thomas Rende, chief finan- wear, died Jan. 27 in Portland, strumental in forming an al- and Discount Fabrics. statement. “Our recently im- cial officer, said, “We’re firing Ore. He was 89. liance with Speedo and Warnaco. In addition to his son, Rennet plemented operating initia- on all cylinders right now. We According to his son, Albert, Rennet served as chairman also is survived by his wife, Julie; tives — better sourcing, reduc- feel that when the economy fi- the cause of death was melanoma. of White Stag from 1970 to 1974 a daughter, Elizabeth Hooton, ing debt and interest expense, nally does turn around, the top Rennet worked at White Stag, and was a senior vice presi- and three grandchildren. improving inventory turns, op- line could really take off for us.” timizing our physical facilities — D.B.

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SUPER 8 HOTEL COMFORT INN LA QUINTA RED ROOF INN RAMADA INN EASTSIDE TIMES SQUARE MIDTOWN MANHATTAN MANHATTAN MANHATTAN 59 W. 46TH ST 129 W. 46TH ST 17 W. 32ND ST 6 W. 32ND ST 161 LEXINGTON AVE Log on to WWD.com now to subscribe. WWD.com BOOK ONLINE OR CALL. applecorehotels.com 800.567.7720 21 WWD West WEDNESDAY,WWD, 2003 12, FEBRUARY It’s in the Stars Who will wear what? WWD gathers some suggestions for 2002’s best of Hollywood from the best of the runways for Oscar Sunday.

LOS ANGELES — Just before day- break Tuesday, the Motion Picture Academy handed down its voting results, with actress Marisa Tomei and Academy president Frank Pier- son cutting to the chase to announce the acting nominations in one-minute flat. There were no surprises — and though we would love to see her on the red carpet, did anyone really think Michelle Pfeiffer was going to get a nod for her overly blonde per- formance in “White Oleander”? Still, this year’s Best Actress pool looks the loveliest in years, with five cam- era-ready cover girls in the running. There isn’t an actress in the bunch who can’t take a runway dress and make it a Hollywood leg- end. A few already have: Nicole and her various Gallianos, Juli- anne in that Prada and Chanel, and Renée in the vintage Jean Desses. But add Diane Lane and Salma Hayek to the mix, and it might be all too much for either de- signers or fashion fans. New York-based stylist Kithe Brewster (who helped turn Julianne Moore into a fashion plate over the last three years) was on a plane to the couture collec- tions as his client Lane arrived at the Golden Globes in a stunning Donna Karan that the designer let her wear in advance of her fall runway show. “I saw some incredibly inspira- tional things at Chanel, Ungaro, Dior and Ralph Rucci,” Brewster said. “I’ve already met with several designers and I’m getting ready to head back for Prêt-à-Porter.” And Kate Young, the Gotham- based stylist for Hayek, who takes to clingy clothes and colors particular- ly well, has already been mulling the possibilities. “Personally, I think everyone should be wearing Alaïa. But for Salma, it’s all about looking gorgeous. It could be a clean and simple Narciso or an Ungaro with a flounce. She’s very versatile.” One point of debate: whether or not we’ll see any more Lara Flynn Boyle-Sharon Stone antics come March 23 (fun as they are, we hope not). Barneys creative director Simon Doonan is betting on it: “After the Globes, when Sharon and Lara monopolized the coverage with Best Actress nominees Nicole Kidman and their over-the-top, self-styled, bor- Julianne Moore (insets) with looks from derline-insane looks, we are going to Badgley Mischka, Chanel and Valentino. Continued on page 22

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Top row: For Best Actress, Salma Hayek with a Badgley Mischka style; Renée Zellweger with Badgley Mischka and Valentino; Diane Lane with a Valentino look. Bottom row: For Best Supporting Actress: Queen Latifah with Ungaro; Kathy Bates with Oscar de la Renta; Catherine Zeta-Jones with Gaultier; Meryl Streep with Oscar de la Renta. THE NOMINEES BEST ACTRESS Salma Hayek, “Frida” Nicole Kidman, “The Hours” Diane Lane, “Unfaithful” Julianne Moore, “Far From Heaven” Renée Zellweger, “Chicago”

BEST SUPPORTING ACTRESS Kathy Bates, “About Schmidt” Julianne Moore, “The Hours” Queen Latifah, “Chicago” Meryl Streep, “Adaptation” Catherine Zeta-Jones, “Chicago”

BEST COSTUME DESIGN “Chicago,” Colleen Atwood “Frida,” Julie Weiss “Gangs of New York,” Sandy Powell “The Hours,” Ann Roth “The Pianist,” Anna Sheppard

Continued from page 21 ment. With size-0 runway samples not an option, they’ll zines like Us and People happy, and Diane could wear see more celebs experimenting — more Gaultier and need a little love from designer friends and a great Valentino,” said Elizabeth Stewart, creative director of more Dior, and lots of Versace. The public loves a celeb seamstress. The New York Times Magazine. Brewster, whose taste who lets herself go slightly bonkers in the fashion depart- “Movie stars are generally not built like models, so veers toward black or white, said even he’s considering ment. We can look forward to more outré styles and less of runway looks need to be adapted,” said Decades’ red, perhaps by Ungaro. the safe red-carpet goddess gowns.” Cameron Silver. The amply endowed Queen Latifah And while Silver champions short, like the cocktail- Young disagrees. “That’s not my slant. I don’t view should go “Chicago”-style glam and the eight-months- length looks from Julien Macdonald for Givenchy, don’t Oscars as the prom.” Ah, but it does make for good pregnant Catherine Zeta-Jones will likely have every expect the nominees to be flashing any more than an copy….That said, the Oscars is serious stuff. It’s certain- couturier begging to stitch her a gown. Kathy Bates and ankle when it comes to skirt length, as to-the-floor for- ly not a time to leave anything to chance, particularly Meryl Streep should pull out all the stops and dress like mal is still the gold standard. As for other body parts, the fit of a gown. If there was a lesson to be learned women, not matrons. After all, they’re still doing some well, that’s fair game. Says Doonan, “I am holding my from Gwyneth’s past appearances, it’s that a dress of their best work on screen. breath hoping that somebody wears the fabulous Alaïa should fit properly and not be transparent. Save for Don’t get lazy on the red carpet, ladies! Count on seeing frock with the see-thru butt.” Lara? Sharon? curvy Julianne Moore, the Best Supporting Actress at least one serious red dress out there, perhaps on Lane. Depending on the derrieres so exposed, so are we. nominees will need a little support in the dress depart- “Somebody needs to wear a red dress to make maga- — Marcy Medina 23 WWD, WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 12, 2003 Considered a pioneer in nar- Taubman and Simon have transaction is to occur within 120 days of Simon’s decision. Gordon’s investment in the com- pany is expected to close soon thereafter. rowing the gap between shop- ping and entertainment, private- ly held Gordon Group Holdings created The Forum Shops and also developed San Francisco Bridgemarket Center, in New Pearlridge City, and Kahala York Mall in Honolulu, and the cur- rent redevelopment of the Ocean N.J. One Pier in Atlantic City, been locked in energetic combat all highlighted year, by Simon’s hostile takeover bid for Taubman. The two realty titans face another deadline at the end of this week. Simon is waiting to find out if enough Taubman shareholders will tender their shares to allow it to take over its The competitor. deadline for the as takeover offer, 14. reported, is Feb. Simon Property Yet, Taubman benefits Yet, indi- As reported, had Simon, prin- Under the terms of the exist- Simon Buys Into Forum Shops Forum Into Buys Simon NEW YORK — Group Tuesday exercised its op- tion to buy Sheldon Gordon’s stake in the Shops Forum at Caesars in Las for Vegas $174 million, thereby blocking arch rival Centers Taubman from get- ting involved in the premium shopping site. rectly from Simon’s move any- Upon way. the transaction’s clos- ing, Gordon will invest, on an af- tertax basis, $50 million of the cash proceeds from the Forum for in exchange deal in Taubman 2.08 million Taubman operating partnership units at $24 a unit. cipal owner of Forum, elected to sell its stake to Gordon, Taubman would have had the opportunity to manage Forum Shops and, in partnership with Gordon, ex- pand and develop the property. ing partnership agreement, the closing of the Forum Shops SALES Email resume: ACCOUNT REP seeks sales reps with [email protected] showrooms in LA & NY. Better contemporary mfr Est. NYC based ladiesrel appa- company seekingtravel rep the to Duties No Calstore territory. include:w/merchandising buyers Assisting theReviewing regional line. making & buys appropriatemendations & recom- for mgrs sell-through. increasing Residencethe San in 5+ Fran yrs areaqualified exp candidates a isconsidered. will MUST. req. be Pleasesume to (212) 736-9171. Only fax re- — Arnold J. Karr J. Arnold — benefits pack-

During the first half, Sport Levra cited “improving inven- However, the improvement in The lower profit figures for Chalet’s comps dipped 1.4 percent as overall sales grew 4.8 percent to $107.5 million. Second-quarter sales rose 3 percent despite a 2.3 in comps. percent decline tory procurement and manage- ment” as a key strategic objec- tive that benefited third-quarter results. suf- the most recent period wasn’t ficient to offset bottom-line de- clines earlier in the Net year. in- come for the nine months fell 14.3 percent, to $4.1 million, or 59 cents a diluted share, from $4.8 million, or 68 cents, during the comparable year-ago period. Sales rallied 5.7 percent, to $179.8 million from $170 million, as year-to-date comps were flat. the nine months were a result of higher selling, general and ad- ministrative expenses. Executive excellent Wholesale Account ” Email resume w/ sal reqs: [email protected] In-house SALES full-time. 818-876-3285 or email Skills: aggressive, strong comm ANONAME JEANS [email protected] & follow-up. Base sal. + comm. An international luxurymunications company com- hasexciting an you opportunity canWe where make are aprofessional West Coast, currently difference! seeking a Must haveence luxury & goods aMust wholesale experi- background. beare an willing innovative company toing offer- an travel. We Please fax resumes to: Must use reference code: WWDWC age & much more!

Sales shot up 7.2 percent, to “In an environment of pro- APPAREL 800-996-4469 $72.3 million from $67.4 million, as comparable-store sales rose 2.2 percent. stores Two were the period. opened during longed economic recovery, we are satisfied with our third- quarter performance,” said Craig Levra, chairman and chief in a statement. officer, executive “While other retailers have commented on the lackluster sales in the all-important holi- day shopping season, we are pleased that this quarter’s comp sales increase reflects a positive change compared to the first half of the year.” TOP DOLLAR OR CLOSEOUT — Craig Levra, Sport Chalet Inc. Chalet Sport Levra, Craig — WALT ADAMS INC. FOR RETURNS,IR’S for fax to (562) 921-6384. Email resume to: Strict manage- [email protected] or

more info.

EOE M/F/V/H TREND MERCHANDISER/ Fashion Textile Designer PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT Fax: 949-833-0497 [email protected]

Send resumes attn: HR

Check out our website at

In an environment of prolonged Email: [email protected] www.memosamples.com Momentum Textiles, Inc. The Los Angeles-based opera- ASSISTANT DESIGNER Established hot fashionseeks cosmetic/handbags creative mfr toedge develop in product trend,and lines. merchandising. Knowl- concept, Full design,area. time samplemaking only, Los Angeles Samsung Caravel, leadinging fashion for an textile in-house companyThis designer/artist is for position its look- will Losusing Angeles be Studio. hand-painting responsibleshould skills for have creating at ordesign least new CAD. experience, 7 designs highly to creativeof 10 skills, years Qualified trends good of interpretation print candidate fashion and methods textile colors, and novelty environment. enjoy excellent working Competitive compensation in knowledge andfits. Interested caliber should please send resume to: excellent a bene- about fast-paced teamwork fabrics, 17801 Fitch St., Irvine, CA 92614 seeks FT,personto assist organized,labeling with fabric cutting& creative samplespaperwork for special projects. & organizing

economic recovery, economic we recovery, are satisfied with our third-quarter performance. “ tor of 28 sporting goods stores in California and Nevada posted net income of $2.6 million, or 38 cents a diluted share, during the three months ended Dec. 31, beating by 19.3 percent the $2.2 million, or 31 pe- cents, reported in the year-ago riod. The third-quarter perform- ance was 2 cents better than First Call’s estimate, which was based on a single analyst.

NEW YORK — ment of its inventories helped Sport Chalet Inc. post a double- digit increase in third-quarter net income, but higher expenses pulled profits in the opposite di- nine months. rection for the Sport Chalet Net Gains 19.3% Gains Net Chalet Sport 24 WWD, WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 12, 2003 rc,$.7y. hl tc lasts. Order stock $0.99/yd. stock, stock while Base, $0.89/ in special colors maraboa, $0.77/yd., Other Black price, Gr 25 WE BUYCLOSEOUTSOFGENERAL MERCHANDISE FOROURSTORES Made toorderonallknits+corduroy CLOSE OUTSU.S.OREXPORTS AND ALSOSTOREINVENTORIES. Peter [email protected] We buymen’s,women’s&children’s Cash ForRetailStock&Closeouts. apparel. Largequantitieswanted. Rib-Lycra-Jersey-Fleece Closeouts Wanted NoLotTooBigorSmall. Three by201-861-0033 Drake Fabrics.718-389-8902 IMMEDIATE PAYMENTS 212-564-3606 WEBERS Call CLOTHES-OUT: FAX: 212-564-3236 *ALL Off-Price* TYE DYE y (937) 898-2975 d. Call213-486-0044 Steven Lambert212-944-6094 Show -ShipManufacture 14-59 St/Mad-9Ave.;1500-10000SqFt&up SUBLET 214W.39thSt. designer showroom.Avail.Immediately! 34 PRIMERETAILLEASES Fully furnishedspacew/privateoffice BWAY 7THAVESIDESTREETS W 38thSt13,000FtDIV.$18Deal Paul, Mike,Larr Space Avail:Office/Shwrm GARMENT CENTERREALESTATE YOUR OFFICE/SHOWROOM... Prime ManhattanScott212-268-8043 Premier Malls/LocationsNationwide BERNSTEIN R.E.-largest#NYClistings Allan Gallawa 212-989-8900; www.bevmaxoffice.com Furnished, Wired,Staffed,Conference Search- www.manhattanoffices.com 500 7thAvenue-38thStreet in verybusycontemporary/young Under MarketSublets-NOFEE! Showrooms &Lofts IMMEDIATELY AVAILABLE!! Great ’New’OfficeSpaceAvail For ALLoffice&loftSPACES 1407 BROADWAY High ProfileRetailerClosing ADAMS &CO.212-679-5500 Keen Realt 80+% ofItsMallPortfolio Rooms, Pantry,Reception SHOWROOMS/OFFICES Please call(212)575-8858 700-5000’ NewPreBuilts ~ 3,500-10,000 Sq.Ft.~ 212-947-5500 READY TODAY! 500-20,000 SQ.FT TREBOR MGMT y 212-594-1414x251 y y , Don,Jerr (516)482-2700 y orElliot to subleaseorshare.Call213-683-8020. Furnished showroom,primelocation 5th Ave. 34thSt. RIPCO NYC R.Cohan-(212)750-6565 Call EvanLieberman212-819-9090x19 EMPIRE STATEBUILDIN Office space.175sq.ft.Carpet,Windows, 1350 Broadway.3spacesavailable! B.Forman, WinokerRlt 1430 B’way/W.40thST. Beautiful installationforshowroom New wndws,FullyA/C.24/7 Access Divisible, ImmediatePossession 639,1368and2554squarefeet. A/C bldg.Open365days/24hrs. VERY MOTIVATEDTORENT Great condition -Allamenities 1466 BROADWAY 2785/4100/7800 SF and office.Submitalloffers. Millennium RealtyGroup OFFICE/SHOWROOM 6,700 sq.ft.-Sublease 225 W.35ST Call 212-398-0112 y ,212-519-2015 G Ed Kret,Textiles/Apparel212-213-6384 Nancy Bottali,Accessory212-213-6386 Ileen Raskin212-213-6381 PROFESSIONAL RESUMES,INC. -atprvd laecl rE-mail Target or Carla atourUSoffice: / call Wal-Mart Please K-Martapproved. bottoms. and knit/woven on tops production for package opening full has company Guatemalan ls ulcts atrs ulservice Full shop tothetrade.Finefastwork. patterns. duplicates, ples, Sam- productions. small in Specializing cost.Fast Low quality. w High Reliable. COMPUTER PATTERNS RESUMES THATWORK!SINCE1970 212-767-0006 Fax:212-767-0660 Automatic Trimming(212)629-8388 All lines,Anystyles.FineFastService. in 24hrs.Localdelivery,pick&pack,etc. 800-451-8625 orwww.aitftrucking.com NY,NJ,LI 718-945-3500ALLSTARTKG.com Warehouse &DistributionCtr. Vol Production/CompetitivePricing ANALYSTS -4HIRE Apparel/Accessory/Textile Specialists 303-690-2672 /[email protected] Import/Export, Dist.,GOH&Cartons *Train AsstDesigner&Prod’nAsst* T: 212-268-7291/212-374-0642 Small orbiglots.Wedomarkersand PATTERNS, SAMPLES, PATTERN/SAMPLES 36 hrsPkg/Flats,Prints,Colorways Fast 1onservice.Call212-840-2155 ork. Small/lgprod.212-629-4808 **Photoshop 7.0&Illustrator10.0** FASHION TRAINING GerberPDS2000, pattern,sample& We’re neuroticaboutbeingperfect! PATTERNS/SAMPLES Patterns &Samples 10 Classes/Upto45K/Internavail Full PackageProduction ALLSTAR TKG&WAREHOUSE accounts. SeasonedProfessional. INFO: retailanal RASKIN EXECUTIVESEARCH Analysis HelpwithMASSretail Permanent Pleating,Ruffling U.S. CustomsDutyFreeWhse. ASSOCIATES samples too.Call973-266-0901 production. Call212-594-3595 www.resumesforfashion.com www.simpsonassociates.com 60 E42ndStreet,NYC10165 www.raskinexecsearch.com Updating/Phone Interviews (212)697-1282/(800)221-4425 Call Sherr ELASTIC SMOCKING PRODUCTIONS EXECUTIVE SEARCH SIMPSON AITF TRUCKING Cut/Sew/Ship PRODUCTION Fax: 212-213-9641 212-869-2699 y 212-719-0622. y sis@ y ahoo.com NY/NJ/LI Ms.Lee / (212)557-5000 F:(212)986-8437 (212)557-5000 exp’d inbothWomen’s &Men’smarket Sports- Buyer. Clothing w years 5 Exp’d creative. in experience extremely years -3 childrens. Exc.Salary&Benefitspackage. 2 be Minimum Individual girls. should and infant/toddler level to design Illustrator/Photoshop, taste of great knowledge seeks with company individual Childrenswear Major pla Must necessary. ability essential. Excel Specing & projects. Photoshop of time-sensitive Knowl on work to able efficiently & designs organized very programs. & Mustbe customer individualized presentations for develop To in skills Computer Photoshop, IIlustrator&Excelamust. proj- completion. through taste to follow great ects have to Must initiative line. level, knit cut sew contemporary to & with individual designer organized assist compan highly seeks private label Fastpaced ASSISTANT DESIGNER A cover and resume email letter to: Out- Please & look. MSOffice appearance, Qbook, of Good luxury knowledge showroom. NYC general apparel managementfor and bookkeeping office manage To 35K; to Sal. mfr. chance togrow.FaxresumeWalter: dress girls’ Mid-size e ltigsoei oo Preferably SoHo. in store clothing new blouse companyw/greatpeople. w SusieJessil ASSOCIATE DESIGNER ASSISTANT DESIGNER APPAREL STAFFING Accounts Payable/Payroll Photoshop, Illustrator,10,Sketching ADMIN. ASSISTANT Please faxresume to:(212)219-3757 mn Since1967 dmin a aulSotwa,nee for needed Sportswear, Casual & ear women’s growing a For others. w/ ell eurmnst ospljascm laerfrt code salary to and refer resume Please their WWD203 whenapplyingforpositions. [email protected]. e-mail to can requirements individuals Qualified package. benefits excellent and salary as We areanequalopportunityemployer. competitive a well offer We as with Experience organized must. programs. oriented, a CAD experience similar productpreferred. and detail Word/Excel woven in be and proficient sketching require must flat sweater level Excellent knit, Individual every experience. with at design Wovens abilities fashion and years Knits 1-5 in Ability a positions Design Design. requires Technical position in experience industry’s Designer years to conductfittingsandspecgarmentsamust. the Technical 4 career-minded of of Woven minimum one Men’s for has with The Group opportunities grow Apparel to jobopportunities. Jones excellent want following leading companies. of who the are individuals division for a These openings Co. immediate Jeans Polo Asst Designers(2)$33-45K Please faxresumeto212-239-2766 Fax resumetoMDat212.840.5601 ADMIN*TECH*PRODUCTION (1) BetterDresses(2)Sweaters DESIGN*SALES*MERCH W-I-N-S-T-O-N Please fax212-382-3398 [email protected] Polo JeansCo.,RalphLauren y 212-763-1667 [email protected] Call212-947-3400 BUYER New York y y . nweg e.Fspcd redyenvi- friendly Fastpaced, ronment, 401(k)&benefits. req. knowledge hrcnieain qa Opportunity Equal fur- Emplo consideration. under candidates ther those contact only to: history Please salary with benefits. J resume unique comprehensive send a salaries offer & & competitive We with detail-orientated environment skills. be & computer skills Must communication informa- strong possess departmental processing tion. entry, related & order integrity other manufacturing & data style processing ensuring handling responsi- the for: be data ble will Candidates in in industry. yrs. 2-4 Entry experience preferably of min. Data a of have Department. a will MIS Candidates our apparel seeking for major Coordinator is a Inc., company Moret, Jacques exp. yrs 4 pressure, Min handle player. W to team Able organized, knits. miss in Assoc cut/sew knowledge for extensive looking w/ Co. Designer Import label Private resume attn: [email protected]. Fax ColourMatters, Illustrator. in and PhotoShop proficient graph- skills, with 3 and/or ics players ability least team sketching experience. strong organized at be work with Must professional designers years’ seeks accessories co. / apparel successful Highly excellent REQUIRE WILL SOME LIGHTTRAVEL. have JOB and skills. Must computer oriented career. position detail and be casual This bottoms in in preferably experience fabrication. years 5 requires knit stretch) and and and (rigid sheet woven detail of knowledge construction grad- and patternmaking, a ing production is This and first labels. environmentrequiring branded fastpaced both an and leading in experience for private a has who looking for individual is division garmentcompany bottoms New Fa skills. making Strong decision resumes: (847)735-0545Attn:HRDept experience. verbal and written, buying analytical, negotiation, of 3-4 have with years must along Candidates goods. Children Women’s home Women, Men, the Ladies’, for Accessories purchase clothing. Men’s items: Children’s, to following motivated buyer highly seek- self-starting experienced, co an apparel ing price off Midwestern etD,8hFor e ok Ne York, New Floor, 8th DE, Dept [email protected] Y CUT &SEWASSOCDESIGNER CAROLYN TAYLOR Perfect englishamust.Helpcustomers cusMrt n. 41Broadway, 1411 Inc., Moret, acques Must haveexcellentphonemanners. Customer Service Please respondtofax(212)398-4350 with reorders,R/Aanddeliveryinfo. r 01 realresume: email or 10018 ork Please faxresumeto(212)627-1077 r/xe,Poohp7Ilsrtr10 7/Illustrator Photoshop ord/Excel, Fax resume:Ivonne(212)391-8027 BY DESIGNLLC/ Technical Designer CAD DESIGNERS Off PriceApparel y DATA ENTRY er M/F BUYER ewill We w x y , WWD, WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 12, 2003 25 A.Platt n.com g Top firm. 212-643-0593 [email protected] (516) 364-1143 TEACH AT g 812-855-0362 SYSTEMS [email protected] or 212-947-3400 [email protected] or 212-947-3400 (2) Mens & Womens SOURCING SWEATERS [email protected] y y SPEC TECH / JLod w.lo@woodlakedesi Senior Footwear [email protected] [email protected] ing in-store merchandisers. Please fax resume to 212-239-2766 Designers $125-160K ord, and e-mail knowledge needed. SAMPLEMAKER arehousing, handling order processing, ith min 10 years experience. Communi- SUPPORT/TRAINER Shipping Associate Must have managerial exp. supervis- QUALITY CONTROL SENIOR MERCHANDISER Fax resume to Jeff at 212-471-8024 or LEATHER BELTS & ACCESSORIES *Just Mgmt* Call 800-544-5878 Agcy INDIANA UNIVERSITY! ToddWa ToddWa Leading companysamplemaker seeks experienced Musthave or knowledgebe trained of capable machinery, have assistant. of hightion may be necessary. Fax resume to: making quality standards. patterns Reloca- and Manufacturing company seeks individ- ual with apparelto industry help background on train andexcellent currentsystems.Musthave support communication employees abilitiesgood and analytical skills.and benefits package. Excellent salary Fall 2003:undergraduate Join Apparel Merchandising dynamic,program. professional Teachplanning, in merchandising, brandagement, atleast2 man- store areas: applications, operations, entrepreneurship,national computer trade inter- & sourcing.perience Industry ex- required.experience desirable. Fax or E-mail to: Master’s, teaching Technical Designer $50K Major manufacturing co.w seeks candidate W allocating merchandisegenerating shipping to labels,ing summariz- customer, overseas packing listandincoming inserting stock. Knowledgeplus. E-mail resume and salary to: of AIMS a The Children’s Place,cialty a children’s retailer spe- for based a in sourcing professional.8+ NJ yrs Musthave in is garmentmanu.,gotiation w/ looking strongne- skills,problem-solving ability, sample extensive trav- dev.el exp., required.2808 & Fax resume to:201-558- Fast growingsportswear ladies co betterleast2 seeks dress individual and yrsgarment w/ construction experience. knowledge at importexperience with W a Technical must.Excel, Cut & Sew Knit. Jr House ...... $60K Retail Specialist Manager to $55K cation withTcchnical overseas knowledge factoriesincluding of & outerwear offices. wovener and product literate, pants.If Comput- knowledge you ofopportunities, please fax resume to: Excel are a person must. looking for growth , r f f s f f SALES ASSOC a must. ADMIN SALES ASSIST VP QA & COMPLIANCE *s ADMIN SALES ASSOCIATE y a must. 2 SR PRODUCTION MGRS / BUYERS 2 SR PRODUCTION MGRS / DIRECTOR QA / KNIT FABRIC SPECIALIST DIRECTOR QA / KNIT FABRIC Director SEEKING BEST OF THE BEST SEEKING mac at Macy’s FAX: 212-494-1298; Steve (212) 391-8027 partnersonline email: [email protected]. Macy’s, Human Resources, If youwork know hard, howsense of good are urgency,like love you highly to to are, excel getjoin us. in organized, are paid everything well you self-motivated, possess do, basedWe & on are intense a yoursupplier major selling performance, branded all pls of mass & our market P/L size & we NYalmost mid-tier have zero based retailers. a employee women’s family turnover.following opportunities: apparel atmosphere, In a spite Our fun growth work place, has & created the Min 3 yrsusing experience as a vendor to Target.Min 3 ExperienceRetail Link yrs in as a vendor to background a plus. Min 5 yrs selling to Target. Merchandising Wal*mart. Experience in using Min 8mass/mid market. yrstion in infants & toddlers. 1 experience position in in ’cut & global sew’ knits;Min sourcing 2nd 8 posi- yrs supplyingunderstanding experience in the ofHeavy global travel. ’cut & knit sew’ knit fabric field QA. &Min printing Technical 12 yrs process experience,ry including a management a position &Heavy global travel. must. as experience VP QA. in factory Facto- Pls compliance do a notexperience plus. respond required. unlesswith Pls you a email cover possess resumeyour last 3 yrs’ salary history (a must). note all to listing the [email protected] the professional position you are interested in & e offer company-paid relocation for RETAIL LINK ANALYST ill be conducted in our New York ork in your home for apparel manu- ith store management to direct illing to commit to two years in the S400, Word & Excel. ou will communicate all divisional Or apply online at: www.macysjobs.com endors and be responsible for sample SOURCING DIVISION Email resume: [email protected] or Explore the possibilities Visual Merchandising Management Careers PRODUCT MANAGER pleasesalary history to: forward your resume with facturer. Ability tostore analyze salesment, traits, data, customer service, forecasting, knowledge o replenish- merchandise execution and train position. Candidates will possess a minimum o A fax: 212-643-2826. No calls please. EOE. merchandising directives and partner lines. Musthave a working knowl o 3-5 years ofDisplay Visual Merchandising experience and store in environment withReady-to-Wear, a knowledge department o Fashions. Men’s Anbackground art, is and favored, designfor creative selling floor merchandising. as is or the Home talent creative W this position, anpackage, attractive compensation comprehensiveprofitsharing 401(k) benefits, investmentplan, generous a vacationdiscount time onw and mostCity a items. Corporate Office. 20% Interviews For consideration Committed to Employee Diversity. Leading childrenswearseeking a companyoriented indiv highly to is workDivision. in Musthave motivated, our min Sourcing the detail- 3 apparel industry yrsexp. with exp pre-teen/junior Will in costing, maintain line plans, &tracking style, fabric handle and &standardize vendor trim seasonal & statusdvlpmt; reports; approvev raw communicate material daily with Need partw time retail link analyst to CTL testingdetail requirements.follow through skills. Fax resume to: oriented, Must be organized, strong Retail Macy’s is seeking adynamic highly individual creative and toof take on Visual theour San Juan, Puerto Rico location. role Merchandising Director in In this role,of you willmerchandise support merchandise the presentations,fashion sale trend through seasonal presentations, statements, events, 3-D creative concepts corporate visual shop andY divisional prototypes. w personnel. Youfor will the also recruitment, beand selection, responsible training developmentofensure visual staffand departmental that objectivescommunicated and understood. store, are company clearly Candidates must and bew bi-lingual and be Macy’s is an Equal Opportunity Employe g x Y w to K ! y y $$$$$$+ Attn: Ja 631-549-5240 [email protected]

[email protected] g g Great Company. Immediate Need Mens or Womens igal-azrouel.com Production MANAGER [email protected] Call 212-947-3400 [email protected] or 212-947-3400 Coordinator y y OHIO JOBS! y [email protected] for exciting opportunit JLod PRODUCTION ASST/QC JLod PRODUCTION Fax res w/sal: 212-398-6693 PRIVATE LABEL COORD Pre-Production Carla 201-894-1186 or e-mail Fax resume to: 646-366-8076 COORDINATOR PRIVATE LABEL [email protected] Fax res. to Winnie: 212-398-6693 PATTERNMAKER Technical Assistant ord, and e-mail knowledge needed. ord, and e-mail knowledge a must. strong assoc & designer to $65K for strong assoc & designer Patternmaker/Fitter Production Manager Please fax resume to: 212-947-6480, KARLYN FASHION RECRUITERS oung contemporary company seeks ERY experienced person. Musthave Fax resume: 212-921-5068 Attn: HR PRODUCTION ASST ated & detail-oriented production per- ToddWa OUTERWEAR EXPERTS! OUTERWEAR Pls. fax resume to 614-478-6994 ASAP Fax resume to Jeff at 212-471-8024 or Fax resume to Jeff at 212-471-8024 or Must have min 8yrs exp. Also seeking Must have min 8yrs Prod. Dev./Production PRODUCTION ASSISTANT ToddWa 3 positions! Sales Mgr & Merchandiser 3 positions! Sales Mgr Fax Resume Attn girls/boys outerwear. needed to join very estab outerwear co. needed to join very PDS Pat Mkr Gerber $70-90 manage Prod. Dev. and Prod’n follo an excellentsense ofpleasantatmosphere,excellentsalary style. Greatco, patternmaker. 1st Patterntion and produc- pattern.Minimum 5 years experience. draping skills required. son withsweaters & strong wovens.experience. Minimum 3 technical Computer years Chinese speaking is a plus. skills skills a in must. up. Working withbrands. specialty retailers Musthave & exp. in PD. Will consider freelance. min. 3 yrs direct ImportApparelorganized, detail Co. orientedpeople exec to andinclude seeks manage thetime but strong, & are prodprice not negotiations. action process. limitedfabric Oversee: calendar, to: fabric & sched yields, sheets, import prod, setting Resp trimtiming. doc’s & & tracking,7 yrs exp inclu at least 3 yrs mgmt exp. L/C Must checking cut be and tkts, Excel proficient, cost min. Production Managerdesigner. foroverseeing Responsibilities in-house NY productionty, issuing facili- based include: cuting, tickets, costing, fabric schedulingand purchas- and planning, sourcing.ized, Mustbe highly computerMinimum organ- savvy 5quired. and years Fax assertive. donata@ 212.302.1291 domestic or exp e-mail re- to Fast growingsportswear ladies better cointerface dress seeks and betweenproduction. individual design,handling Must sales to productionorder have through & shipping. fromly experience Must organized be and start high- detailW oriented. Excel, of NY office of int’lhas apparel opening marketing for co. brightenergeticperson Production $50K Fast growingsportswear ladies co betterleast2 seeks dress individual and purchase yrs w/ orders, at municate costgarments,com- experience. w/ overseasW factories. Excel, Prepare Importbag / clothingcolooking based for in productionknowledge N asst, in computer follow Excel, up Word, with212-268-8229 or E-mail: [email protected] e-mail overseas for factories. Fa Better Sports Co.indiv. w/5 seeks yrs detail exp.tic in oriented overseas prod. &abilities domes- & Mustmaking. Must be willing to travel. have understanding strong of technical pattern ImportApparel Co. seeksv highly moti- •Technical Director. Better Sweaters...... $150K •Technical Director. Better •Technical Designer. Sweaters/Knits...... $85K Paid Relocation Couture Eveningwear Co. lookingV for a growth potential. Call 212-944-7144 & great Y Musthave thoroughknowledgegarment of specing construction, ability.detail patterns oriented, excel Must computer& literate & be workbased co. Please fax resume to Marie: extremely ata fastpace. Long Island Better Sportsoriented, Co., articulateCandidate must seeks & have 5dept/chain strong yrs hands-on exp. detail- store managin Implementing T&A calenders a must. indiv. priv. label programs. Technical garment knowledge a plus. / ) K K y

y to (212) 685-6627 y @justmgt.com y jud $50-70K [email protected] or 212-947-3400 Diverse duties. y y *Just Mgmt* Call 800-544-5878 Fax (212) 714-1607 [email protected] Coordinator Agc 201-558-9898 att: Sandra in strictest confidence to: [email protected] or DIRECTOR OF JOBS JOBS JOBS CAREER OPPORTUNITIES: [email protected] CHILDREN’S ACCESSORY CO. [email protected] or 631-435-8532 GRAPHIC DESIGN Please call 212-972-9300 or e-mail: Please fax resume to 212-239-2766 Creative web development, fashion ord/Excel license experience a must. Head Patternmaker ith social occasion garments. ith others a big plus. Portfolio Fax resume and salary requirements Jeanswear Bottom TD Artists: Boys or Girls or Missy or Mens CAD Designers-Primavision or Ned Graphics Designer Head-Junior Sweaters $HI Designers - Assists - Assoc - Boy or Girl Merch/Designer-Jr/Girl Woven Top/Btm Prod’n Sourcing Coords-bilingual Chinese License Prod’n Artist/ Fax resume & salar MERCHANDISER/SALES Import Coordinator email comm. Exp’d w/ US retailers a +. SusieJessil (Branded exp childrnswr a+).$to 250K (Young Mens Denim) (Mens, Womens & Childrens) (Womens Sweaters) (New York and New Jersey Location) (Exp with NEDGRAPHICS or U4IA*) (Bilingual Chinese) (Mens Sweaters) (Cut and Sew or Sweater exp) Call (212) 643-8090; fax 643-8127 (agc Duties incl: delivery follow-up, routing, exp. Judy GROMWELL GROUP Seeking exp’d person to aid whse in NYC. Production follow-upLicensors and on artwork forms &changes, with product. Make packaging, prep work for *MERCHANDISE/PRODUCT DEVEL *DESIGNER...... $100K *ACCT EXECS...... $65-150K *PRODUCTION MGR...... $80K *PRODUCTION...... $30-35K *CAD DESIGNERS...... $35-$70K *PRODUCTION...... $50-80K *DESIGNER ...... $60-80K *TECHNICAL DESIGNERS.... $35-70 Majorindividual apparelMust have mass merchants exp. with ladies/missys company exp. seeks *Allocation/Inventory/Office Manager * * * *Designer - Junior Cut/Sew Knits $HI * * *Production: Mgrs - Coords - Assists * *Technical Designers & Spec Techs mass production. Photoshop/ Illustrator W PatternmakerNew neededdepartment of multi division company York toComputerized based supervise patternmakingence experi- necessary.w Mustbe patternmaking experienced GRAPHIC DESIGN Large Bay Shore,er Long Island of market- imprintedets, is tees, looking sweats fortive a and graphic director design jack- department. for Knowl- itsedge crea- of5+ Illustrator years &apparel of Photoshop a experience must. and trends and Awareness in the of abilityw decorated to current lead and work Graphic Designer $50 Please e-mail resume to Cardillo at: Marketing Web to $70K Familiarityprocedures, with specifications, etc.Import experience helpful. a catalog must. approval ImportAssist$25-30K. Min 6in mos exp. follow-up oftrouble importorders, shooting. routing, Computerized.at 31st street. Call 973-564-9236 Agc Bway required. Send resume,and salary requirements to: work samples . f f S K experience a must. 212-564-6791 Attn: HR/EG [email protected] y Fax (212) 916-8320 fashionresumes.com FIT MODEL FASHION & Agc "ON THE MARKS" INSTRUCTOR THE SCHOOL OF CHOICE Fax resume to: 646-349-1176 Gilbert Resumes (800) 967-3846 GRAPHIC ARTIST MERCHANDISING GRAPHIC ARTIST 711 3rd Ave, 4th Flr, NY, NY 10017 A.Platt *Just Mgmt* Call 800-544-5878 or email: [email protected] visit us at: www.newport-news.com FASHION PASSION Please fax resume to: 212-239-2766 omen’s fashion house seeks Fit e are a leading, well-established firm Mechanicals, Inserts, Organize library. Fabric Specialist ill be administrative responsibilities. ork in the development of prints, thletic Apparel Company seeks ovens & board presentations projects. CAD - Childrenswear KATHARINE GIBBS SCHOOL Call 212-986-7329 or Fax 212-986-7708 Email resume: [email protected] or FABRIC DEVELOPMENT NEWPORT NEWS, INC. FASHION RESUME SPECIALIST Graphic Artist Production $40-45 w Musthave workingIllustrator, Photoshop & U4ia. knowledge o fax: 212-643-2826. No calls please. EOE. w A Leading childrenswear mfrfor searching aw CAD Artist. The candidate will BUYER(Womens Sportswear)150-180K PRODUCTION (PDM a +)...... 45-55K PLANNERS (All Levels)...... 35-80K DESIGNERS(Boys & Yng Mns).35-55K OFFICE MANAGER...... 40-55K RETAIL MGRS(All Areas)...... 30-50K W W Fast-paced leadingseeks hi-energy private teamknowledge label player. of Mustground wovens co. have in & knits.domestic/foreign strong Sourcing back- mills, strengthsense with & good organizational skillsMinimum fashion necessary 5-7 yearsFax resume to: experience. Please Professor Wanted: Teachlustrator shop to create andCAD presentations Il- using system.boards, Plaids, Moodand Prints, Flats. Stripes, boards, MUSTIN Solids BE FASHION Trend EXPERIENCED MARKET.required. BFA Please Degree 937-6034. EOE M/F/D/V. fax resume to: (212) Graphic Artistbox who thinks withMustbe out of skilled strikingIllustrator. Garment the in graphic Photoshopand designs. Excellent compensationpackage. &fax/send For benefits history to: consideration, resume please including salary embroideries anddesigns appliques infantthroughsizes for 7-16.be Will responsible girls for the development o Model withrequirements: the following body *Bust 36 *Low Hip 39 size *Waist 28 *Thigh 22 1/2 *High Hip 35 1/2 *Height 5’7-5’8 Previous experience asplus. This a is FitModel a full a time position. There located inindividual in NYC,sourcing fabric seeking developmentand withknits. an Right emphasisfabrics individual exp’d to on execute will creativeknowledge novelty vision, research have ofco-ordinate overseas marketplace, timetable. Must needs haveand computer skills. strong follow-up to calendar ’ - . r f g (212) 921-5206 212-629-3123 . lecareers.com y Ltd. Fax (212) 302-1161 i.com y g, n j @st Account Execs y Send resume to EDI / MIS Buyers/Allocators hr@ DESIGNER DESIGNER Bets Designers/Asst Designers Fax resume to 212-760-9705 Fax resume to (212) 736-9171. . Please fax resume: Product Developers/Managers Licensed by Madison Maidens y Work in Korea. English Speaking Est’d vertical import co. looking for ill be resp for productdesign process tops on project or assignment basis DESIGNER-SLEEPWEAR freelance Designer for junior woven ECKO OUTERWEAR Newborn, Infant & Toddler-Immed hire Jones New York Intimates FASHION NETWORK 201-503-1060/Fax 1070 Young Men’s Bottoms Email resume: [email protected] or Designer-Childrenswear ectHeader: Designer-Sleepwear-You DESIGNER ASSTS (2) onl Apparel Staffin Designer - Freelance NJ based -ments All & EDIEmail resume: [email protected] Maintenance. Processing, Garment Docu- exp. Seekingdesigners. Mustbe 2 proficientin Adobe Illustrator. Fax resume attn201-863-8501. creative to Sharon: men’s/ladies j Name, to: Design, Q/C, Technical Highly creativegood individual eyeRight needed, for fashion with individualtranslate and concepts must designsample; into details. have sketches,developmentpackages. to ability using final Mustbecomputer to literatecalendar computerized very schedule. andexperience in Sleepwear. design Min ableSalary, 5 to benefits(include years excellent. computer follow Email proficiency); prior with resume Sub- DESIGN Branded YMexperienced Jeansweardesigner young co toconcepts create seeking men’s exciting forhave jeanswear bottoms growing abottoms division. Must thorough construction,finishes understanding fitopportunity for the right individual. for o & YM’s fabric market. Great Fastpaced Handbag Co. seeks& creative motivatedgrad designer. w/2 Design year.ferred. exp. school in Mustbe handbag co.ganized teamplayer, pre- well &Please Fax resume to: or- willing to travel overseas. DESIGNER - Handbags creation, designing, sketching, conductin fitsessions and issuingfor sample fit. final approval fax: 212-643-2826. No calls please. EOE. Leading childrenswearexcellentjob opptyfor mfr adesigner. girls has apparel creative Must & an motivatedyrs indiv exp be with in minW the 2 childrens CAD apparel industry literate, perience a must. Bridge Missy Sportswear line seeks in- dividual w/ superior merchandising skills, trend forecasting expertise and strong sense of color. Several years ex incl. marketresearch, mood board 26 WWD, WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 12, 2003 da addtssol aemn3 r x ihamajor a with exp yrs 3+ min have retailer fortheabovepositions. should candidates Ideal *Planner client Handbags/Accessories *Buyer luxury with Merchandising/Retail: working experience and/or have merchandising base. Strongleadership/managementskills required. Must sales, wholesale/retail planning. have in Managers and Account experience Must skills Accessories & industry. leadership *Bags footwear and the in managerial pri years) strong 20 - possess (10 exp extensive Footwear the of in *VP/Director and Exp experience skills. Wholesale: extensive analytic and have management. luxury marketpreferred. interpersonal Retail seeking should strong are and we possess candidates Wholesale business, our in Ideal of candidates growth on-going talented the to Due wholesaler-operating and retailer stores intheUSA luxury European leading, A or successindrivingthefootwearbusiness Please faxresume:212-974-3467 WHOLESALE/RETAIL -idealcandidateshouldhave for a luxuryretailer. -(5-8years) paigapu.Ti sagreatgrowth a is & oppty withfullbenefits. This Chinese plus. team & a travel speaking design to Ability with customers. costing, interact China/HK, fitting, with respondence retdPo’ orst follow-up to Coords w Prod’n detail oriented experienced, seeks sptswr importer/mfr women’s lbl private Established Production Coordinators t l hsso rdcindiycor- production-daily of phases all ith Jobs, orE-mailto: and salaryhistoryinconfidenceto a must!Salarycommensuratewithexperience.Faxresumes decision-making skills.Off-pricebuyingorsimilarexperience Gifts, PLUSstrongnegotiation,analytical,written,verbal,and in Men’s,Women’s,Children’s,Accessories,Shoes,orDomestic/ of buyingexperience(ortwoyearsAssistantbuyersexperience) Buyers profitable, off-pricedretailer,islookingforselfstarting, WANTED: GABRIELBROTHERSINC., Fax resumeto:212-382-1125 and Assistant Buyers [email protected] withaminimumoffiveyears klsW fe competitive a offer We opportunity withbenefits. skills Communication Good PDN scheduling. costings, infabric/trim garment exp sourcing, years must 3-4 candidate have Ideal office. NYC productioncoordinator inour a for anopportunity has Group Amerex Please faxresume(732)499-8529 ls utb ihymotivated highly be self starter. India, Must plus. a Sri-Lanka with and China a Bangladesh, Experience experience color must. Technical & trend sense. years good 5-7 least experience, at seeking with importer individual growing paced Fast okn o raieindividual creative years 3-5 a with for Looking Young Men’s, work Men’s &Boys. with Will primarilty specifications. and balance of construction, aspects fit, garment all of Must knowledge experience. individual have years detail-oriented, 3-5 with a proficient computer for Looking Both positionsareavailableasfull applications with and cartooning&illustrating. good separations, be and color Must Photoshop in Illustrator. proficient be or email:[email protected] Designer &Merchandiser Production Coordinator (425)952-7263 benefits packageifyouareFT. TECHNICAL Junior WovenTop Please faxresumeto: FUBU DESIGNER Please faxresume Is seekingtwotalented DESIGNER Salary commensurate time orfreelance.Full GRAPHIC following positions: Designers tofillthe a fastgrowing, 212-273-3333 212-869-5149 with experience. attn: Argee

xeine Must experience. , Attn.

CAROLYN TAYLOR or fax:201-863-3276.EOE. Inter Email: [email protected] necessary. system ested andqualifiedcandidatesshouldapply. spec implementing fit new in first the Experi- knowledge from etc. and construction ence production, samples bulk fit re- and through fit track prepare spec port, technically sessions, Ashley guidelines, preparation enforce fit to and the in adhere fitpurposes, for garments for out pre- garments specing technically include paring Respon- will plus. De- a sibilities patternmaking via designer. in in Micrographx gree sketching and proficiency o Excel flat PC knowledge computer/manual, making, basic the background pattern have in individual design Qualified should catalog). experi- technical or 3 located (retail of an yrs minimum a seeking -4 with Inc., Tech is Spec enced NJ o Brands, division Secaucus, a Stores, Urban Technical Ashley our as Designer Ap- chain Women’s Specialty fastmoving parel a join Come Childrenswear Salesperson Representative mfr Account w an clothing seeking is women’s Semi-tailored & exp Size 8formodellingpreferred. Sales co. clothing contemporary A incentives excellentbenefits, bonus plus salary offers competitive work MAGIC fast to environment. a ability in team-oriented Travel isrequired. excel the paced and and independently skills; customer excellent service/communication/salesmanship software; Word/Excel MS individuals willdemonstrateexperience the of knowledge w and experience sales professionals leading sales w high-energy seeking Company, the is Show Trade apparel International, fashion MAGIC ACCOUNT EXECUTIV Greatoppty. hrs/wk. 30-40 Fax resume:212-239-4661Attn:David. nec. Word & A required. grading, Outlook Fax resume/salar & fittings, Office Microsoft issues, etc. manage technical FF to in all timelines exp. Follow years sweaters. 2 tech w/minimum seeks designer importer sweater High-end ot/pnosi ae;poiinyin proficiency sales; booth/sponsorship retail chains.Faxresume:212-560-9652 n 0() laesn oe letter cover send Please and resumetoHRat: 401(k). and Accessory Salesperson TECHNICAL DESIGNE seasoned, positivesalespersonstosell Needed P/Tfortradeshows (March8- FULL FASHIONSWEATERS 12) andshowroom. Call:212-947-5644 Please faxresumesto(212) 221-8326 bottom’s experiencewithlargeDept. [email protected] EOE. t tlat3t er wholesale/retai years 5 to 3 least at ith Department&Specialtystores.For cs.c.sesasslsesn Exce asstsalesperson. seeks co. ccess. ssatwne o rsdn o President for wanted ssistant the line.Atlease5yearswoven/knit t salse otcsa large at contacts established ith qualified The market. apparel omen’s Just launcheditsmissywoven/knit aea es r x okn on working exp yrs wool garments. 5 least wool Must at have outwear. expert for makers seeking sample NJ in Central located company apparel Large 1500 RahwayAve.,Avenel,NJ07001 Bagir International BY DESIGNLLC./ bottom’s divisionandislookingfor consideration, pleaseforwardyour & Specialtystorefollowingamust! Wool SampleMakers business. Musthavecontactswith We offerexcellentbenefits resume to: Atelier Jewelry email: [email protected] Location: WoodlandHills,CA. representatives toexpandour Fax resume:212-382-1791 Seeking professionalsales Assistant/Sales Alana Leigh Please sendresumeto: TECHNICAL Fax to:(415)441-0181 Fax: 732-499-8529 DESIGNER HR AmerexGroup B.A.D. [email protected] y to: 212-387-8343 .

in R or E f f f l , - l aepro /ofpie&discount & exp’ price off seeks chain stores.Salarypluscommission. w/ KnitCo salesperson Denim Junior A w w designer exclusive w and Established Direct SalesCompany with skills. motivated computer 2 self & people & professional working hard hands- very on, hi-energy, Mustbe busi- P/R. wholesale ness; high-end this individual charge oriented to an seeks career Co. aggressive, Jewelry Fashion Couture Please required. is Fax resumeto: experience o years spe- Minimum 5 stores. dept., mid-tier better and cialty with & mgmt. contacts have buyer will Co. candidate Sportswear right & The Dress Children’s a lead Child- into expanding ren’s now Brand, "HOT" essar nec- background discriminating retail Luxury to person, clientele. sales motivated in a experienced needs shop cialty spe- women’s Westchester Highest-end Ameri- w Responsibilities store. our Manhasset in outstanding cana available has cus- opportunities garments, & accessories made wear tom tex- to quality ready finest tiles, the manufacturing of in distribution leader & a Piana, Loro desires pri- mfg existing v increase to knitwear executive sales vertical Large energetic, follow- self-motivated, detail andcustomerserviceoriented. be customer Must w/ ing. established private salesperson experienced label seeking well office knit NY with cut/sew vertical manufacturer Canadian Large productdevelopmentco. A our expand to merchandiser/seller sweater Seeking follow- total with through. DirectinquiriestoClaire. competent, motivated computer highly to markets, Able contacts. open extensive excellent & with resume Executive Sales Leather Goods Luxury experienced an Seeking potnt.Pes a euewith resume Career fax salar benefits. Please / opportunity. plus. salary a Competitive is Targetexp. mar- rentWal-Mart/ mass Cur- required. to chains specialty programs ketand fashion / basic netvs togtann n sup- and training port provided.Pleasesendresumeto: Strong sales with incentives. Commission-based clothes. entrepreneurial for Ideal show- team. York New room our busi- partof be own and build ness to opportunity Unique Associates. Sales professional pendent, lsyseprec nlxr retail commission. luxury in experience sales. yrs plus 3 service. cus- a of tomer level with highest the along to essential commitment are skills exceed lead- ership & & communication, Excellent interpersonal, meet expectations. customers’ levels cus- our ensuring service as well tomer as base client the laeFxrsm consyou accounts & resume have dealtwithtoHowardKornat: Fax Please eainhpwt eatetstores department and majorchains.FaxresumestoBS: division. with accounts, plus active relationship junior have head our must to of Candidate sales individual the motivated highly g.Mrhnie bet tr-pand start-up to able Mgr./Merchandiser Creative Opportunit PRIVATE LABELSALES Desi Merchandiser/Seller SALES MGR./MERCHANDISER Retail/Sales Associate ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE t ae uies x.developing Exp. business. label ate Fax 212826-2302orappl lat er xeineneeded. experience years tleast5 mni euiu,hg quality high beautiful, dress in and network to omen love who omen inde- seeking company wear omen’s l nld eeoig&maximizing & developing include ill y Designer Jewelry Pleasefaxresumeto:212-827-0011 Kieselstein-Cord ojno en opn ek a seeks company jeans hotjunior Private LabelSales JOUJOU JEANS rs. exp.$50-$60K.Fax: RETAIL SALES 7 West34thStreet,NY10001 Please e-mailorfaxresumesto requirements to(212)382-2147 Pleasefaxresumeandsalary y y g Wear, JUNIOR SALES requirementsto(212)885-9411. . Faxresumeto: n Network [email protected] or Fax: opttv aayplus salary Competitive is 212-398-2287 ekn yai Sales dynamic a seeking

Box #1027 212-288-3438 addtsms have must Candidates 212-594-6412 , Inc-(212)221-3480 914-328-9468 212-904-1219 y inperson. y d f WWD, WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 12, 2003 27 / -

d y exper- 718-648-8761 @aol.com y 336-273-3800 the Southeast and make MIAMI customer base; low to mod- 336-210-5235 Call 212-292-4267 SELL STYLE ART Please call (610) 796-3824 Email: ebcon Dress Line Wanted Do you need exp’d DESIGNERS, Sales Executive Email: [email protected] ***APPAREL EMPLOYERS *** Ph: 954-938-9742 or 917-656-1310 Road Reps Wtd. for all products. Commission only. and all majors. Seeks F/T position. ear. Petite, Missy, Large sz. 1st - prod. Art licensing co seeks exp’d sales reps etc. staff? CALL 973-564-9236 Jaral Ag Exp. with Men’s & Ladies accessories REGIONAL SALES REPS REGIONAL SALES Chicago/Mid West + New England Chicago/Mid West Sportswear Line Wanted PATTERNMAKER - F/T 212-967-8181 [email protected] all markets. tise. Refs. avail. Linda: 516-364-2443 Highly creative &merchandiser energetic w/ designer New over York garmentcenter.Backgroun 15includes yrs productbuying exp development, & in retail leadership sales. & trend Proficientin forecasting. Recent- ly fashion relocated toemployment w/ successful co. Miami area seeking F/T Exp’d.25 years. Jackets, Dresses, Sports Exp. Lectra Patternmaking cepts into 1st pattern, draping, rub-offs, samplerm mgr. Couture/contemp. COLLECTION CONRAD C,Montreal a prominent ladies’turer sportswear of manufac- betterseparates, coordinates seeks and experienced related repsan with establishedstore following. specialty at: E-Mail Mr.Ted Dziena Please and Telephone chain or Jobber specializingis in seeking ladies independentdiscount& lingerie reps off price tomaking stores.Greatmoney sell oppty to forsell aggressive Designer indiv. lingerie.(212) 279-3103 or Call (212) 279-1902 or to Fax resume to: 25 yearsdress experienced line sales toEstablished replace pro one seeks out of business. 20 years salesin pro with Southeast strongsportswear following line seeks to sell to lowcounts. We travel. established ac- to moderate Temp toSuperior Full-Time ability to translate Position design con- Wanted. PRODUCTION, TECHNICAL, Warehouse, erate. I travel w f e Rep Store following. Many established Specialty & Attn: HR Dept attn: Jeff Adler [email protected] Booth YM51115 y or see us at MAGIC! Agc SALES REP - NY SALES REP Fax resumes to (847) 735-0545 Fax resumes to (847) Independent Rep Senior Sales Rep. Fax resume to 212-689-4953 or Fax resume to: 818-361-9659 ADLER LEATHER SILK CLUB Knit Fabric Mill conjunction with our NYC showroom. Nationwide outerwearseeking experienced Sales company territories open, will work in for Men’s andMust have Women’s Lines. Jennifer *Just Mgmt* Call 800-544-5878 e-mail to [email protected]

Department 5 yrs + exp. JcPenney, Sears, Kohls, etc. 5 yrs + exp. JcPenney, idual with 7-10 yrs experience Key Account Executive Knit Garment Sales Sales to $150K Sales Tel: 714-797-8902 / Fax: 714-578-8911 Tel: 714-797-8902 / Fax: 714-578-8911 (lingerie notrequired).-oriented Mustbe detail withtion skills. Some travel required. excellent communica- In New Yorktablished City, to embroidery represent firm.necessary. long Send es- Experienc resume toFairview, NJ 07022 or fax 201-943-8946. PO Box 597, L.A. verticalexp’d. knit SalesPlease Call or Fax Chris at: fabric Rep mill for seeks all territories. CA vertical knit mfr.Rep seeks exp’d. for Sales store private sales label toall other territories. Contact Chris at: cover & SF, major MI, NY, chain LA & Growing Off-Priceing Company an isactive experienced seek- accounts salespersonprice chains in with with contactsments. specialty in all Must depart- have and atence, least of be 3 yrs energetic,motivated experi- team aggressive, player with highly munication, great organizational com- skills, com- willing to travel. puter knowledge and Top French Lingeriev Co. seeking indi- Leading branded and privateter label bet- sportswearsive, co experienced, looking keytive for with accountexecu- aggres- deptlowing. store Please and send catalogue resumesKule via E-mail: [email protected] to fol- Farrah K @aol.com y Fax resume to HR: Fax (212) 643-1379 SALES 212-730-0412 (215) 923-6981 Assistant SALES PRO SALES PRO Las Vegas, booths 481-485 SALESPERSON PROFESSIONAL Fax resume to (212) 695-9483. Sales Executive Kathleen Conte @ (212) 221-3677 Kathleen Conte @ Well est’d women’s contemporary Well est’d women’s Sales & Production We will be at the Off Price Show in NY based Co. specializing in ladies (212) 279-3103 or ebcon ell-Est. trendy multi-line showroom salesperson for Dept. and Specialty salesperson for Dept. mendous oppty for growth minded sportswear label is seeking an exp’d sportswear label is lternative streetwear company seeks ork well under pressure. Mustbe a team Salesperson Wanted! stores. Must have follow-up and be a stores. Must have follow-up self-starter. Please fax resume, attn. self-starter. Please exp’d, aggressive, sales pro. to sell to Must be organized, detail oriented & discount & dept. stores. Fax resume: indiv. to help launch our own label & specialty & discount stores & chains. Designer, off priced lingerie seeks an possess strong people skills. Also, tre- oin sales team. Right person will have Sales Professional to develop private label programs with min. 5 yrs.try, exp. in professional, themotivator highly off and price organized, atravel indus- required. team a We player. offeropportunity a Limited for great a hard career oriented person. working, results Men’s/Women’soff price firmaggressive needs an Sales Proaccount base with in established thej off price market to Fast growing &estknitfabric one of manufacturerinseeks the H listed an larg- salesperson energetic, for NY highly office. Pleasesume to: 212-819-0888. fax motivated re- W Import P.L.recent Sweater Manufacturer collegeoriented, seeks motivated and graduate organizedin to work who aincludes assisting is fast ation small team. detail- paced sales Must & be environment. produc- w able to Position multi-task and A highly motivated individualsales w/ experience. extensive Candidate mustestablished have contacts w/and Specialty stores. Pls fax resume to both Department Bridge Missy Sportswearestablished line Salesperson. seeking & Spec store experience a must. Strong Dept seeks exp.known contemp. salesperson lines.getic, and to Must havecontemp. be at sell mkt. ener- least Must have 2-3 well tionships existing rela- yrs w/ exp. betterEastcoast. in specialty stores Young,Greatincentivepkg! on hip, Plsto: chic Yvonne fax at vibe! resume -382-0301 ext 11 212-768-7690 or call: 212 player &Great growth opportunity. able Computernecessary. skills toexperience a plus. Previous work fashion independently. or retail f to ahoo.com y 212-354-7921 hiredem@ to: y Fax resume to (212) 944-6420 SALES MANAGER histor y Sales Executive For consideration, fax resume in confidence to: (212) 239-7468. Sales Executive Sales Executive Tel: 212-302-3744, Fax: 212-302-8589 Tel: 212-302-3744, Fax: SALES EXECUTIVE SALES EXECUTIVE SALES EXECUTIVE ho can generate immediate sales and ith enormous growth potential. - / strong dept./specialty chain contacts (Intimate Apparel Industry) Call, fax or email resume to Lisa Cheung Call, fax or email resume cultivate newaccounts. and Positive maintainfollow-up skills a must. energy existing & strong deliver nationalcompetitive accounts. salary. We Emailsalar offer resume and a Please [email protected] or fax to 212-741-7932 resume in confidence to Surf and Swimperson Co. seeks with seniorExciting sales- opportunity managementindividual for potential. experienced w with extensive contacts 2(X)ist, a leader ina Men’s fashion seeks qualified,Manager for Specialty dynamic Stores.sell Manage, and service denimaccounts current specialty while Sales store developingaccounts. new Must denim experience have atStores least with and 2 existingtial. years client Denim base Strongand essen- presentation written, skills Specialty needed.to think Ability communication strategically andplans. execute Computer sales andrequired. retail math Enjoy skills w a family atmosphere Position is availableDaywear/lingerie due co. to rapidhighly seeks growth. motivated aggressive exp’d salespersonlaunching for aDaywear well-known line. Musthave brandcontacts. mass-market name Est. junior sportswear manufacturerknits o andGreat wovens, tops opportunitythe and for bottoms. MID-TIER personproven track accounts. selling record. tial - FAX RESUME: Must Unlimited poten- have Hotnew men’s denim cosales seeking acct head exec w/direction opportunity of to shape Great line. opportunity to Experience grow. Salarytiable. Fax resume: 212-278-8883. nego- a must! Major intimate apparelple co divisions/brands with seekingexecutive. multi- top Must sales listcovering FEDERATED, have MAY, TAR- activeGET, WAL-MART account & Annualume Sales History Vol- Exceeds $20excellent salary pkg and growth oppty. Mil. We offer Est’d importersweaters/knits of seeksw experienced moderate pro novelty to join Showroom. New York [email protected] y sse y od Sales Exec - Menswear Sr. Account Executives Rapidly growingpriced men’s importerexec sportswear to of needsIndividual a help popular sales dling broaden musthave experience all itsservice the han- accounts. distribution. responsibilities Establisheding & exist- contact necessary withMinimum major to of accountsindustry 5 a required. yrs must. tion experience Attractive & compensa- in benefitto: men’s package. E-mail resumes µ f r we provide an excellent opportunity Account Executives Fax Number: 617-241-5303 SUSAN BRISTOL Senior Account Executive Senior Account We are hiring for the following positions: - Major Department 212 302 8804 - Experienced seller - 5 years experience... SALES SALESREP AR/MS/LA Fax resumes to (212) 764-6912 Attn. Pres. of Sales (EOE) Fax resumes to (212) 764-6912 Attn. Salary Requirements to: [email protected]. dress firm in territory. or Fax 800.372.0080 Exceptional candidates should e-mail their Resume and Exceptional candidates should organized. Resume: 212 221 2006. BCBG MAX AZRIA BCBG MAX Fax resume to: y STORE PLANNER Division Sales Manager Please call 800.363.7720 Wanted for well established SALES ASSISTANT Great work environment, competitive benefits package. competitive benefits Great work environment, Manufacturer of Women’s Better Sportswear and Knitwear of Women’s Better Sportswear Manufacturer This person wouldmanaging be existing responsiblethat accounts for will cultivating, along maintaining, increasebe with and revenue able developing tobuying new and demonstrate background a grow business andThis position is based in our analytical skills. successful our sales possess market history, share. solid have You retail prior must math, retail computer and As today’s contemporary leader one of the nation’s our dynamic & evolving company. talented individuals who will thrive in premier design houses. We continue to seek creative, ith wonderful team. People person. ith initiative. Patient teamork and player. train To with VP’s of sales. High ith CAD/Photoshop/Illustrator for er w V Loads of energy, selfw starter, ambitious w w Private Label Department Stores/national chains 3 - 5manufacturer. years experience Strong in financial Retaillytical & w/Majo ana- skillssales planning/forecasting. a must, responsible for Account Manager Stores 5 yearsrunning experience...Capable a o strong large merchandising, planning business...musthave & ana- lytical skills Specialty Stores currently selling/servicing betternationwide...GREAT OPPORTUNITY!!! stores level computer skills essential. Design presentation andExcellent oppty boards to break necessary. into industry AMERICA’S COTTON PRODUCERS AND IMPORTERS. ¨ Registered Service Mark/Trademark of Cotton Incorporated. © Cotton Incorporated, 2003. leading online fashion, news and trend resource. 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