Thoroughly Modern Mini NEW YORK — Furs Had a Strong Presence on Runways Everywhere for Fall

WWD Inside: Section ll PRADA NET FALLS 45.6%/2 CFDA AWARD NOMINEES/2 Fur In Depth WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’ TUESDAYDaily Newspaper • April 1, 2003 Vol. 185, No. 65 $2.00 Ready-to-Wear/Textiles Thoroughly Modern Mini NEW YORK — Furs had a strong presence on runways everywhere for fall. So it’s only natural that the mood would be in the spirit of the season’s youth movement, with its daring lengths and bold details. Mini-coats in vintage-type furs are high on the list of furriers’ favorites. Here, Ben Kahn’s industrial-zipped version in summer ermine. Boots by Sergio Rossi. Sunglasses by Morgenthal Frederics; Wolford tights. For more on furs, see pages 6 and 7 .

‘CNN Effect’ Goes On OR; STYLED BOBBI BY QUEEN As Iraq War Attracts Consumers’ Focus By Evan Clark and Jennifer Weitzman NEW YORK — The first week of spring and the arrival of the baseball season didn’t pull consumers out of their wartime shopping stupor. Stores reported more shutouts than home runs during the final week of the calendar month. Nordstrom was even left doubting its most recent forecast for the first quarter. Major chains gave tepid revenue reviews to the month, which wraps up this week for most stores. Concerns over the war in Iraq have glued many consumers to their See War, Page8 PHOTO BY PHOTO DAVID BY TURNER; MODEL: CASSIANE/SUPREME; HAIR CRYSTOPH BY FOR MARTEN VIDAL SASSOON; MAKEUP BELLABY HARL PILAR FOR SALLY 2 Sale of Fendi Stake Drops Prada Net WWDTUESDAY Ready-to-Wear/Textiles By Amanda Kaiser included Fendi. The Prada and didn’t specify by how much. Miu Miu brands accounted for Foreign exchange translation MILAN — Robust fourth-quarter about 83 percent of revenue, the subtracted about $51.8 million GENERAL Even the most lavish furs often have an edgy touch, a charming, flirty detail DAY, APRIL 1, 2003 DAY, growth wasn’t sufficient to keep company said. from full-year sales results, the S or a surprising reversal — and then there are those that are just plain cute. E Prada Holding NV’s full-year re- In the fourth quarter alone, company said. Currency fluctua- 6 U

T sults from falling substantially Prada said its EBITDA “more tion in late 2002 hurt the sales re- Major retailers gave tepid revenue guidance for March, citing concerns over the

D under pressure from the sale of than doubled” to $77.8 million sults of European firms with well- 1 Iraqi war, which has glued many shoppers to their TVs, and the limp economy.

W its stake in Fendi and a 2001 while sales rose 12.5 percent to developed overseas business as Kmart Corp. said it was shedding 660 more jobs as it prepares to exit W change in ordering procedures $456.8 million. the dollar and other currencies that cut into 2002 sales. The company didn’t furnish weakened against the euro. 3 Chapter 11 by the end of April, but other changes might be on the way. Net profit for the year ended earnings guidance for the current Europe accounted for just Solid fourth-quarter growth couldn’t keep Prada’s 2002 results from falling Dec. 31 shed 45.6 percent to year, but did commit itself to rev- more than half of company sales 2 under pressure from divesting its Fendi stake and a procedural change. $29.2 million from a pro-forma enue growth and further geo- last year: Italy generated 26 per- 2001 result of $53.4 million, graphic expansion. cent of 2002 revenue, while the TEXTILES: Fears over the outbreak of atypical pneumonia in Hong Kong which excludes results of the “Considering the particularly rest of Europe accounted for 25 10 devastated attendance at Interstoff Asia, the region’s most important textile fair. 25.5 percent stake in Fendi sold difficult market situation, we are percent. Another 23 and 26 per- EYE: The continuing story of Nancy Cooke de Herrera; primed for Pilates; to LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis satisfied with our performance cent were derived from North 4 doing a birthday dance, plus a scoop. Vuitton in November of 2001. in 2002 and we are ready to ap- America and Asia, respectively. Including the Fendi stake, net proach the challenges of 2003 in Prada said about half of its Section II: Fur In Depth, a special report, is included in this issue. income in 2001 was $60.6 mil- terms of growing revenue and sales derive from its 247 directly Obituary ...... 12 lion. Dollar figures have been expanding the group’s geograph- operated stores. Classified Advertisements ...... 14-15 converted from the euro at cur- ic presence through the continu- As reported, since full-year To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is rent exchange rates. al development of its brands,” and, in some cases, fourth-quarter [email protected], using the individual's name. Prada said negative currency chief executive Patrizio Bertelli profit figures began arriving from SUBSCRIPTION RATES impact and its adjusted delivery said in a release. Europe last week, Gucci reported U.S. and possessions, Retailer, daily one year, $99; Manufacturer, daily one year, $135. pattern accounted for a 16 per- Prada attributed the $54 mil- a 1.7 percent increase in net in- All others U.S., daily one year $195. Canada/Mexico, daily one year, $295. All other foreign (Air Speed), daily one year $595. Please allow 6-8 weeks for service to start. Individual subscription information/Single Copy Sales : (800) 289-0273; cent drop in full-year EBITDA to lion drop in full-year sales to a come for the fourth quarter ended outside U.S. (818) 487-4526; new group subscription information 212-630-4196 $226.8 million from $270 million change in product-delivery sched- Jan. 31 but a 27.4 percent drop for Postmaster: Send address changes to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. on a pro-forma basis in 2001. uling, which sped up the filling of the year. Bulgari notched an 11.6 WWD (ISSN #0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue every month except July, and two additional issues in April and August, by Fairchild Publications, Inc. Sales for the year fell 3 per- orders. The company said the percent increase in 2002 profits; a subsidiary of Advance Publications Inc., 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001-8191. cent to $1.7 billion from $1.75 bil- change, made in 2001, unnaturally IT Holding, a 141.8 percent in- WWD is a registered trademark of Fairchild Publications Inc.© 2003 by Fairchild Publications Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications Inc. All rights reserved. lion in 2001, excluding Fendi, and boosted that year’s results. crease, and Tod’s and Marzotto No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, 9.2 percent from the reported Stripping out those effects, Prada year-over-year decreases of 2.5 including photocopying or recording, or by any information storage or retrieval system, except as may be 2001 figure of $1.87 billion, which said sales would have risen, but and 24.6 percent, respectively. expressly permitted in writing by the copyright owner. Editorial Reprints: (212) 221-9595 Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and other offices. Mailed under Publications Mail Sales Agreement No. 517054. Canada Post Returns to: P.O.Box 1632, Windsor, ON N9A 7C9 GST # 88654-9096-RM 0001 Canada Publications Agreement # 40032712 Printed in the U.S.A. All signed articles published in the paper represent solely the individual opinion of the writer and not those of WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY. CFDA Taps Vogue Pair, Morgan Stanley For Web site access, log on to www.WWD.com 2 From U.K. for Awards Pushes for LVMH In Brief By Eric Wilson Suit Disclosures ● MORE TIME FOR TAUBMAN: Simon Property Group Inc. and NEW YORK— Carolina Herrera, PARIS — Like the war in Iraq, Westfield America Inc. on Monday extended their $1.7 billion, or Marc Jacobs, Donna Karan and the $100 million lawsuit LVMH $20 per share, all-cash offer for Taubman Centers Inc. until mid- Narciso Rodriguez led the nomi- Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton night on May 30. As of March 28, when the most recent offer ex- nations for women’s wear de- launched last November against pired, Taubman shareholders had tendered 40.3 million shares, signer of the year, as the initial Morgan Stanley will probably according to Simon. Taubman said in a statement that the amount round of balloting for the 2003 take longer than many people tendered was less than 50 percent of the total shares, common and Council of Fashion Designers of originally thought. preferred, outstanding and that the share count was insufficient to America Fashion Awards was fi- Lawyers from the two sides meet Simon’s own minimum tender offer condition. The two have nalized on Monday. are set to meet today to wrangle been battling for control of Taubman since last November. Nominees in five apparel over questions first confronted and accessories categories and at a court hearing last month. ● SECRET PROMOTION: Victoria’s Secret Beauty promoted the recipients of four special Investment firm Morgan Stanley, Michael J. Nicholson to chief financial officer. He joined VS awards, based upon votes cast accused of bias in its equity re- Beauty in March 2000 as controller. VS Beauty is a division of by 450 designers, journalists, research on LVMH and luxury Intimate Beauty Corp., which also operates aura science LLC and tailers and stylists, were ratified rival Gucci Group, wants the is a wholly owned subsidiary of Limited Brands. Nicholson reports by the CFDA board following an Alexander McQueen is receiving the court to compel LVMH to con- to Jill Granoff, executive vice president and chief administrative uncharacteristically short meet- firm that it’s not sheltering new officer of Intimate Beauty and VS Beauty. international award. ing that resulted in two of the evidence. special awards going to the top Burberry, was chosen to receive Morgan Stanley also wants ● FREIGHT IN CRISIS: The U.S. freight transportation system is editors of Vogue and the other the Eleanor Lambert Award for a LVMH to pinpoint what’s ger- facing a “capacity crisis” and needs restructuring to keep pace two going to individuals whose unique contribution to fashion. mane to its case among 1,900 with the expected doubling of imports in the next 13 years, con- brands hail from England. Although the nominees in the pages of documents filed as evi- cluded a U.S. Chamber of Commerce study released Monday. Anna Wintour, editor in chief respective apparel and acces- dence on a CD-ROM. While U.S. ports are modernizing, the report said rail, trucking of Vogue, will receive a lifetime sories categories include some Those requests are slated to and inland freight hubs are already plagued by “key choke points” achievement award, while André first-time faces, more than half of be heard in the office of magis- of congestion and contended that the whole system is vulnerable Leon Talley, the magazine’s edi- them are repeats from last year’s trate Jean-Pierre Eck, not in the to sabotage. The chamber hopes to use the study to lobby tor at large, has been named re- ceremony. Both Jacobs and Rodri- courtroom. Eck could deliver an Congress for funding and creation of a national freight plan. cipient of the Eugenia Sheppard guez were nominated for women’s immediate verdict, but is more Award, which was previously wear in 2002, with Rodriguez win- likely to set a date in several limited to fashion journalism but ning it, while Jacobs won the weeks to announce his decision, has been expanded to incorpo- men’s designer of the year. according to a source familiar rate creative directors, fashion Nominees in men’s wear for with the proceedings. stylists or artists. The interna- 2003 are Sean Combs for Sean As reported, the suit centers Correction tional award will go to Alexander John and Ralph Lauren (both re- on the writings of Morgan Stan- A bracelet with plastic discs and a metal chain featured on page McQueen, while Rose Marie peats from last year) and Michael ley analyst Claire Kent, whom 9 of Monday’s Accessories/Legwear In Depth Section II is by Bravo, chief executive officer of Continued on page 9 LVMH charges with conflict of in- Roxanne Assoulin for Lee Angel. The resource was incorrect. terest in her ratings and comments on LVMH. Morgan Stan- ley’s investment bankers advise WWDStock Market Index for March 31 Gucci on acquisitions and other financial matters. Composite: 100.33 Broadline Stores: 101.21 Softline Stores: 95.14 The CD-ROM is believed to contain boilerplate statements that are among the most con- tentious points in the suit. Although removed by Morgan -1.44 -1.87 -0.71 Stanley under threat of legal action, the statements noted that Vendors: 102.21 Textiles: 91.90 Morgan Stanley had a director Index base of 100 is in common with LVMH and that keyed to closing prices it would be seeking compensa- of Dec. 31, 2002. tion from the French group for -0.12 6.49 investment banking advice. 3 WWD, TUESDAY, APRIL 1, 2003 Pete Born Pete Trotter Trotter will report to Ferlisi. The changes are intended to For For Saks, enhancing the The Fifth flagship Avenue nor- up Facing to the poor business Saks started its comprehensive So men’s far, sportswear on The cosmetics floor at Saks — With contributions from contributions With — uct design and product development for the brand’s adult apparel and accessories division. She joins Gap from Theory, where she was senior vice president of design. Prior to Theory, was Ferlisi creative director for Marc by Marc Jacobs. Most recently, Trotter was creative director for CK Women’s Jeans. help Gap sustain its turn- around, which began to materi- alize last fall. Thanks to the recent return to serve “Every with classic, casual Generation” clothing, Gap last October managed its first comp increase after a 2 1/2-year losing streak and the momentum continued into the holidays. The company even managed to increase its regular-priced selling and im- prove markdown margin. and fourth quarters would have put great pressure on us,” John- son said, adding: would “We like to see the economy a little more buoyant” before construction resumes. 650,000-square-foot flagship is crucial, particularly in light of the business lost since Sept. 11, 2001. While most Manhattan stores were affected by the tragedy, Saks in particular is trying to recover lost ground considering its high percentage of shoppers from out of town. mally accounts for 25 percent of the chain’s total sales of about $2.4 billion, and one industry executive estimated that Saks does $60 million a year in beauty in the Fifth location, Avenue or about 35 percent of the total chain’s beauty sales. Saks is believed to be the biggest New specialty York store in terms of beauty sales. climate, Saks Fifth Avenue managed itself well last with year, profits increasing fivefold to $53.1 million during the fourth quarter, and pumping up the parent cor- poration, Saks Inc., overall for the Sales year. at the division, however, decreased 5.9 percent to $682 million in the on quarter, a 4.1 percent comp decline. flagship renovation about two years ago, but the delay of the beauty makeover won’t be the first. Officials have acknowledged that the company is running late on the entire renovation schedule. seven, Salon Z for large sizes, and men’s furnishings, as well as the fine and fashion jewelry and accessory areas, have been renovated. Also, men’s accessories were relocated to the sixth floor, clothing. next to men’s continues to get good traffic. the However, retailer wants to lower the fixturing and sight lines to maximize the grandeur of the floor and make it easier to navigate and shop the many brands sold there, which include Prescriptives, Chanel, Yves Saint Laurent, Bobbi Brown, Guerlain and MAC. Gap is retooling Saks Fifth Avenue Among the changes, Jerome Pina Ferlisi, formerly with Ferlisi will report to Muto The delay is due to a desire There is still some ongoing She insisted Saks will even- Johnson also said that, by tak- are doing “We extremely well If the renovation timetable NEW YORK — its design team, cutting out a layer of management while taking in some top Seventh talent. Avenue Jessup, executive vice president of Gap Design, is leaving the company, and design heads of Gap adult and GapKids/babyGap divisions will now report to Gary Muto, Gap president. Theory and Marc Jacobs, is joining Gap brand’s New York-based design office as senior vice president of design and product development, and Louise Trotter will become vice president of women’s design. suc- Ferlisi ceeds Amy Hennisch, who left the company, while Trotter will fill a newly Jessup’s job will not be filled. created post. and oversee all aspects of prod- Gap Inc. Boosts Design Team Design Boosts Inc. Gap Saks Postpones Redo Postpones Saks Moin David By NEW YORK — is taking a breather on its flagship renovation, putting a major makeover of the main floor cosmetics and fragrance depart- for at least a year. ment on hold to keep expenses more in line with the challenging business environment and a reluctance to be under extensive construction during the second half of this which year, would only make business more difficult. construction at the flagship, such as a new Louis Vuitton boutique on the main floor. But as far as beauty, the beautification has are going to been postponed. “We wait on that as we weather this whole economic situation,” said Christina Johnson, Saks Fifth Avenue’s chairman and chief executive, responding to industry reports about the delay. tually renovate the beauty floor, possibly beginning in spring 2004, as part of the overall $100 million-plus top-to-bottom renovation of the flagship. “We would rather not put ourselves in construction at this time,” she said in a telephone interview. ing a break on the main floor construction, the store can better benefit from those areas recently renovated. About a year ago, a fine jewelry department opened and last Saks December, unveiled a new designer accessories concept, with “hard” shops for such brands as Bottega Salvatore Veneta, Ferragamo, Chanel, Burberry, Gucci and Yves Saint Laurent, among others, lining the perimeter of the main floor, with other brands in the middle of the floor. The Vuitton shop will be the crown- ing touch, opening by summer. in fine jewelry and all the handbag renovations,” Johnson said. “But we had to make a decision about being torn up again in the second half. veryWe much do not want the disruption during the third or fourth quarters.” had been maintained, “being under construction in the third — Rosemary Feitelberg Rosemary — Lampert is a fan of Julian Day, While there’s been concern Marty Whitman, chairman of Kmart in the meantime is Of the total job losses at Kmart stores and distribution Nation, and is expected to have one on Kmart’s as well upon its exit from Chapter 11. He also has been instrumental in some of the at Kmart. more recent changes a veteran of Sears top management, and was instrumental in Day’s ascension to the top spot as Kmart’s chief executive officer and president. about how an economic downturn could have negative effects on Kmart’s bottom line down the road, Kmart’s new owners appear concerned. don’t the Third Avenue Fund, Value told WWD in an interview earlier this month, “I don’t think that the economy counts for all that much. I think that Julian Day accounts for more than that much.” preparing a new Martha Stewart advertising campaign for June 1 and has recently launched Tea Leaf, its new California-centered marketing push into Asian- American communities. Kmart, 400 will be at headquarters, while 123 individuals located nationally that provided corporate support also will be let go. The balance, 137 positions, were open job listings that will be left unfilled. centers are not impacted by the job cuts. Kmart said it expects to save $90 million in fiscal 2003 and $150 million annually there- after as a result of the head count reductions. For For the new women’s shop, the Kramer Design Sharkansky expects a hooded black top with an The store will have exclusive previews, a Reebok executives said the neighborhood, with But don’t expect the company to roll out copy- of Georgetown for 18 years, most recently as senior vice president and general merchandise manager. agency, used bold, sleek ar- Group, a New York-based chitecture like curvy steel benches for weary shoppers and an illuminated honeycomb plexiglass base with a pickled-wood counter for cashiers. Even the neutral walls have metallic glass and colorful slats. insignia of Liverpool’s professional soccer team, a and pants long-sleeve with yoga drawstring T-shirt waistbands to be the bestsellers. sports concierge and how-to programs. There also are plans to hold autograph signings with authors and other special in-store events. Talks are already under way to stage a fashion show and trunk Sports Club. shows for the Reebok stores such as Intermix, Banana Republic and Lucky Jeans within a few blocks of the store, Theory and opening a store two blocks north, makes for good traffic tie-ins. cat versions of this store. Sharkansky said it has been modeled for Upper Side West shoppers and members of the Reebok Sports Club LA. At this point, the company does not plan to duplicate it in any other cities. Reebok’s latest prototype. Reebok’s According to one source, the Ed retail Nakfoor, consultant According to another Nakfoor, Another possibility, one source Kmart return didn’t executives have a seat Lambert on doesn’t ESL hedge fund may be hedging its bets. The source told WWD that there have been discussions of an affiliation linking Sears with Kmart soon after the discounter’s exit from bankruptcy, which Kmart has tapped to occur by April 30. The rumblings have Sears taking over Kmart’s store sites some to house its of Great Indoors concept. in the Detroit area, observed, “As for merger rumblings with Sears, I think that’s a very likely scenario, although I see don’t it as a merger of ‘equals,’ but rather more of an acquisition of Kmart by Sears.” option if Sears’ test of its new stand-alone format to open later this year in Salt Lake City goes well, is to convert certain Kmart locations to the concept. While declining to comment on a possible Sears-Kmart alliance, a Sears spokeswoman confirmed that the prototype is one that Sears is working with in an effort to establish an presence. off-the-mall The first of these is scheduled to open in September in West Jordan, a suburb of Salt Lake City. said, is to turn some Kmart locations into freestanding stores for the Martha Stewart brand or even possibly stores for the Joe Boxer label now carried exclusively at Kmart. phone calls seeking comment. Sears’ board, but does sit on the boards of AutoZone and Auto- Reebok Reebok has taken more than a page The hedge-fund in-

Prior to joining Reebok, he worked for Britches In watching shoppers in the old stores, Anderson The new concept will be unveiled today. In the Reebok’s Reebok’s version of a sidebar is a hip-high count- To To that point, activewear outfits are hung on “We wanted “We to acknowledge that a lot of Located at 170 Columbus Avenue, the 3,000- More intriguing, as far as real ESL, headed by Edward Lam- Those holdings, the sources Sources close to the financial

McNeill, who joined Reebok five weeks ago as vice president of merchandising and concept stores, noticed, “They would hold up items and ask, There are similar fabrics.” ‘Is or men’s?’ women’s this old setup, women’s merchandise was displayed with men’s merchandise in the 5,600-square-foot store. Now, the store is set up with men’s product on one side, women’s goods on the other and a doorway inside the store connecting the two. er that extends along the northern wall and is topped with 60 pairs of athletic footwear to make it easy for shoppers to check out the various styles. Watches, athletic socks and other accessories are mixed in with the footwear in separate compartments and an electronic ticker tape runs along the base of the counter, feeding visitors tidbits, such as: “Walking is one one of the best fat-burning activities.” The information can be changed at any time from the company’s Canton, Mass.-based headquarters. fake grass mats against an encased magnetized wallboard similar to an In Style layout. Playing cards with colorful scenes from “52 Adventures in City” are also interspersed in the display. New York women do their shopping through the print media,” said Jan Sharkansky, vice president and general manager of asked women’s. “We ourselves, ‘How can we communicate with our consumers the way magazines do?’” Reebok Pumps Up New Concept New Up Pumps Reebok NEW YORK — square-foot space offers fitness-related information via electronic ticker tapes, photography books by the likes of Herb Ritts and Annie Liebowitz and colorful displays reminiscent of a flashy fashion spread. Fresh flowers in oblong vases rest beside updated soccer looks and other jazzed-up styles designed to free Reebok from the run-of-the-mill sports label stereotype. from a fashion magazine for its refurbished Upper whole concept. Side store — it’s borrowed the West estate plays go, have been rumblings from Detroit and Chicago speculating on why Lampert has picked up nearly a 9 percent & Co. stake in Sears, Roebuck pert, already owns stakes in Auto- Zone Inc., an auto parts retailer, and AutoNation Inc., a new and used car Kmart retailer. last April shut down Penske Auto Centers in its stores, and retail sources in Detroit and Chicago said either operation is likely to take up leased space at the for- shops at Kmart. mer Penske said, include the ability to incor- porate leased departments within each Kmart store, an expected money-making opportunity to increase the value of each location. Leasing opportunities inside each Kmart include fragrance, snack concessions and jewelry. team funding Kmart’s exit from bankruptcy proceedings — ESL Investments and Third Avenue who Fund, Value together will own more than 50 percent of re- organized Kmart — told WWD that the two funds were investing in the discounter to take advan- tage of its real estate holdings. By Vicki M. Young M. Vicki By — NEW YORK vestors who will own the majority of Kmart Corp. after its bankruptcy may be prodding the store and its real estate assets in some unconventional directions. This comes as the discounter said jobs. Monday it was shedding 660 Kmart Cuts 660 Jobs at HQ at Jobs 660 Cuts Kmart HTSB AAACENTENO TALAYA BY PHOTOS 4 Flower Child hough she usually shrugs off any birthday plans, last Friday night TOlivia Chantecaille — whose mid- What a Trip dle name just happens to be Delphinium — put on her dancing shoes and threw LOS ANGELES — herself a 30th birthday party among the , TUESDAY, APRIL 1, 2003 , TUESDAY,

D It’s a very rare wild and brilliant blooms at Banchet

W Beverly Hills Flowers, which boasts the prettiest W eye® doyenne who can petals in the Meatpacking District. say that The Adelina Wong was there, white orchid Beatles wrote a cosmopolitan in hand, making mischief song about her, but Nancy for the second night in a row. “Last night Cooke de Herrera is just that at the Asia Society party, I dared Coralie kind of grande dame. True, she Charriol to dance on the has a faithful housekeeper of 39 table,” Wong reported. “And years, named Mercedes, and she did!” Wong swore she she lunches with Nancy Reagan wouldn’t rest until she and Betsy Bloomingdale. But, had convinced her sec- as a friend of the Maharishi ond victim — the Mahesh Yogi, de Herrera birthday girl — to do instructs those seeking strength the same. through spirituality in But then, shimmy- Transcendental Meditation, ing down the length including such notables as of the dinner table Greta Garbo and Madonna. running through the De Herrera’s book, “All You flower shop was a Need Is Love,” due out April part of Chantecaille’s 11, chronicles the spread of plan all along. spirituality from India to the “Of course I’m Western world, for which de going to dance on the Herrera herself was partly table,” Chantecaille responsible 40 years ago. Olivia Alexandra said. “It’s my birthday.” “Mantra and guru — those Chantecaille Chantecaille words were not in our inin Valentino.Valentino. dictionary back then,” she explains over tea at her Beverly Hills home of 41 years. Born across the bay from San Francisco, in Piedmont, Calif., de Herrera left Stanford after three years to marry naval officer Dick Nancy Cooke de Herrera in Cooke, the scion of one of Kashmir, India, in 1988. Hawaii’s oldest missionary families. The couple lived in the islands for nine years during World War II, photographer. “It’s about my son and me shooting where de Herrera played hostess to Admirals tigers on a hunt,” she says of the White Album Nimitz, Halsey and Towers. When she and Cooke anthem. “The Beatles had just arrived at the ashram when Rik was telling Maharishi the story.” Mantra and guru — Memories of Farrow are less pleasant. “She claimed Maharishi made a pass at her when he “those words were not in was trying to bestow a spiritual blessing,” says de Herrera. “Mia has a very vivid imagination and I our dictionary back then. won’t forgive her for that.” Still, de Herrera gives the star, who had outfits — Nancy Cooke de Herrera” made by the “ashram couturier,” credit for being the first groovy Westerner to adopt Punjabi dress. divorced, in her late 20s, de Herrera returned to The Fab Four followed. “The tailor made clothes California. Then, during a trip to New York she for The Beatles that changed fashion more than met “the love of my life,” Argentine racecar Givenchy or Dior or anyone,” she says. driver and golf champion Luis de Herrera. Sadly, De Herrera should know. She met the after a whirlwind romance and barely two years Maharishi during the 12 years she traveled the of bliss in Buenos Aries, de Herrera lost her world as the official U.S. “Ambassadress to second husband to leukemia. Fashion,” a role she first landed after winning a To console her, B.K. Nehru, former Indian slogan contest for a hosiery company, though her BJ Topol in Adelina Wong Ambassador to the U.S., gave de Herrera a copy winning entry — “Hosiery is the best cosmetic Valentino. Jazz Johnson inin Valentino.Valentino. of Paramhansa Yoganda’s “The Autobiography of for the legs” — was ghostwritten by Burt a Yogi,” and in 1962, she arrived in India wearing Bacharach. The State Department later turned four-inch heels, and journeyed for weeks to meet her gig into a permanent position. the Maharishi. She quickly became a devotee. “They were looking for the perfect American Of course, when de Herrera returned to housewife, and I fit the bill,” she says. “I was California dressed in Punjabi tunics and blonde, I had raised four children and I knew a Stretch Marks leggings — she never wears saris, claiming little about cooking.” In the market for a Pilates-toned physique Westerners don’t look good in them — friends Of course, along the way, de Herrera amassed minus the medieval looking machines and said she had lost her mind. an incredible collection of clothing. The closets exorbitant price tag? Instructor Alycea “So many people thought, ‘Oh come on, you’re of her house, and those in the two cottages on Ungaro’s new book and CD set, “Portable just being taken,’” she says. her property, are stuffed with gold-threaded and Pilates,” might be the answer. As the Still, de Herrera facilitated Maharishi’s intricately beaded gowns. “The wonderful thing founder and owner of Tribeca Bodyworks — entree into America with the help of her about ethnic clothing is it never goes out of the city’s largest studio devoted exclusively influential friends, including society columnist style,” she marvels. to Pilates training — she recorded a 45- Cobina Wright, and soon everyone from The Never one to idle, de Herrera has already minute mat class to accompany a spiral- Beatles to Donovan to Mia Farrow was seeking written her next book, “Never Tango With a bound guide that illustrates the workout’s salvation at the yogi’s ashram in Rishikesh. Stranger,” about her life in Argentina within Eva various positions with cute, girly drawings. “It was great fun taking The Beatles Perón’s circle, and the coup that followed her “Most people don’t have the dispos- shopping,” says de Herrera. “Nobody knew who death. able income to hire a trainer,” says they were.” De Herrera’s life is nothing if not full of Ungaro, who is not related to the designer It was there The Beatles penned a song, “The surprises. “I never thought I’d do a lot of things,” Emanuel Ungaro and has trained such fa- Continuing Story of Bungalow Bill,” in honor of de she says, “including write a book.” mously toned stars as Madonna and Uma Herrera and her son, Rik, a National Geographic — Marcy Medina Thurman. “My students develop their lis- Alycea Ungaro trains a student. tening skills. I didn’t think watching a video and craning your neck to see the screen is what Pilates is about.” SUPREME BEING: She’s coming out, all right. The one, the only, the legendary But isn’t the secret in those torturous-looking machines with names like Diana Ross has signed on to entertain all the divas and deities joining Tom Ford, Cadillac and Reformer? Not so, according to Ungaro. “With the machines, you EYE SCOOP Nicole Kidman and Anna Wintour at the “Goddess” dinner to benefit the add resistance training, which builds muscles and sculpts,” she says. “But Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute on April 28. with the mat workout, you get that long lean look.” Ross, whose autobiography, “Upside Down: Wrong Turns, Right Turns and the Road Ahead,” will be released And it’s not too late to shape up for bikini season, either, which is just by ReganBooks this spring, inspired Ford’s fabulous fall collection for Yves Saint Laurent with her dynamic style around the corner. “The workout gets rid of the love handles,” Ungaro promis- and will appear at the gala in a gown specially designed by Ford. es, recommending a daily regimen. “No back fat.” DE HERRERA COURTESY OF DE HERRERA; CHANTECAILLE PARTY BY LAUREN FLEISHMAN; UNGARO COURTESY OF TRIBECA BODYWORKS TRIBECA OF COURTESY UNGARO FLEISHMAN; LAUREN BY PARTY CHANTECAILLE HERRERA; DE OF COURTESY HERRERA DE THE #1 REASON TO ATTEND THE MAGIC MARKETPLACE DISCOVER NEW RESOURCES 3,000 EXHIBITORS. 20,000 PRODUCT LINES. 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Michael Kors’ Jerry Sorbara’s Cynthia Rowley’s Lunaraine mink, scallop-edged blouson retro jacket high-necked jacket rabbit coat in wild-type mink, with matte python reversing to sunglasses by inserts and skirt. stenciled tiger Morgenthal Frederics. for Neiman Marcus; Wolford tights. WWD, TUESDAY, APRIL 1, 2003 WWD, TUESDAY,

Chado’s Russian sable cocoon jacket with shirttail sides for Pologeorgis.

KEREN HAUPTMAN; HAIR BY CRYSTOPH MARTEN FOR VIDAL SASSOON; MAKEUP BY BELLA PILAR FOR SALLY HARLOR; STYLED BY BOBBI QUEEN BOBBI BY STYLED HARLOR; SALLY FOR PILAR BELLA BY MAKEUP SASSOON; VIDAL FOR MARTEN CRYSTOPH BY HAIR HAUPTMAN; KEREN

T: 7 WWD, TUESDAY, APRIL 1, 2003 ASSISTAN FASHION MODELS; BADAWI/NY DAHLIA LISA/ELITE; MODELS; SAUM/ID ABIGAIL CASSIANE/SUPREME, MODELS: TURNER; DAVID BY PHOTOS

for Alixandre Furs for Alixandre Furs

broadtail trench coat reversing to honey kid. Oscar de la Renta’s Russian Oscar de la Renta’s

New New New Directions Directions NEW YORK — YORK NEW often furs lavish most season’s the Even surprising a or detail flirty charming, a touch, edgy an have cute. plain just are that plenty are there then And reversal. NEW YORK — YORK NEW often furs lavish most season’s the Even surprising a or detail flirty charming, a touch, edgy an have cute. plain just are that plenty are there then And reversal. 8 War Grabs Attention, Retai

Continued from page one ring to the preoccupation by at least some consumers UBS Warburg department store analyst Linda television sets, a host of economic issues have con- with news of the Iraqi war. The strongest product cate- Kristiansen noted, “We have been expecting sluggish re- strained spending and the shift of Easter into April gories in the U.S. included intimate and ladies’ apparel tail sales momentum to persist through at least the

WWD, TUESDAY, APRIL 1, 2003 WWD, TUESDAY, this year, from March last year has complicated and swimwear. back-to-school season.” comparisons. Other stores, lacking Wal-Mart’s focus on basics and Kristiansen now projects a 4 percent comp-store Taken together, conditions have added up to three its ultralarge customer base, were even less optimistic sales decline in department stores for March, implying strikes for many merchants. The final tally for the about the month. a negative underlying trend of 2 to 2.5 percent, after ad- month will be ascertained when the majority of retail- Federated Department Stores Inc. said sales last justing for the Easter shift. Accordingly, the analyst ers report March sales results on April 10. week continued to be “soft” and that it’s now looking for modestly reduced her already-below-consensus first- Additionally, Nordstrom warned that war had ham- a comp decline of roughly 6 to 7 percent in March. The quarter projections for Federated, Penney’s and May pered already soft sales, contributing to a drop in first- parent of Bloomingdale’s and Macy’s was earlier in the Department Stores Co. quarter earnings estimates below the firm’s prior pro- Keeping Kristiansen’s sales projections down are a jections. The company is now forecasting profits below group of economic issues including: a slowdown in real its previous guidance of 23 to 27 cents, versus profits of We have been expecting income growth, reduced momentum in home sales, a 22 cents for the same period a year ago. A more exacting slowing of mortgage refinancings and lagging consumer estimate was not given due to the lack of visibility in “sluggish retail sales momentum confidence. On the plus side, she noted, interest rates consumer trends. are still low. The bottom line has drifted downward with the top. to persist through at least the Wall Street was not enthralled by the prospects for Nordstrom, in a statement, said sales were trending March. The Standard & Poor’s retail index sank 4.22 down by a percentage in the low-single digits so far this back-to-school season. points, or 1.5 percent, to end at 272.44. However, that quarter, which will end May 3. outperformed the broader S&P 500, which fell 15.32 For the fiscal month of March, Wal-Mart Stores Inc. — Linda Kristiansen,” UBS Warburg points, or 1.8 percent, to 848.18. reported Monday that its comparable-store sales Among the declines on the New York Stock Exchange would increase just barely, at the low end of the low- month targeting a drop of 3 to 4 percent. were Wal-Mart (down 2.1 percent to $52.03), Federated single digits. This forecast was based on results J.C. Penney Co. Inc., which just wrapped up the fifth (1.8 percent to $28.02) and Penney’s (1.2 percent to through Friday, the end of the fourth week in its five- and final week of its fiscal month, said same-store $19.64). Managing an increase was ShopKo, rising 3.1 week fiscal month. sales in its department stores last month trended percent to $11.65. Last week, the discounter experienced negative below the planned flat to slightly down performance. With its amorphous first-quarter warning, though, trends in both average ticket price and traffic, com- Bright spots for the week came from family shoes and Nordstrom endured more of its investors’ ire and regis- pared with the week prior to Easter last year. This made women’s accessories. tered a 6.5 percent drop in its share price to $16.20. The for tough comparisons Saturday and an easier go of it ShopKo Stores Inc., which finishes its fiscal month ultimate extent of the damage should be apparent on on Sunday and into this week. this week, said comps were below plan last week, but it May 19, when the firm is expected to report its earnings. “We continued to see some ‘CNN Effect,’” last week, remains on track for a high-single-digit drop for the “The company’s fundamentals remain solid and we said a Wal-Mart spokeswoman on a recorded call, refer- whole month. are continuing to focus on opportunities within our con-

AURELIA SABATIER JULIE PERCHENET Age: 25 Occupation: Lawyer CONSUMER SPEAKS Occupation: Public relations Shopping at: Zara, Gap and Shopping at: Zara Agnes B Thoughts on American brands: “I shop at Zara, Vanessa Thoughts on American By Emilie Marsh and Chantal Goupil Bruno, the Gap, Zadig & Voltaire and I don’t consider brands: “I would have boy- PARIS — The French may be taking to the the brand’s origins when I buy. I don’t boycott American cotted American products if streets to protest the war in Iraq, but they’re products. There is a big difference between (U.S. there would have been a President George) Bush and real impact. However, if I still buying clothes — and most are leaving were to boycott American politics out of the equation when it comes to ERIKA ROSARIO products, the impact would American brands. Age: 21 have been very small, An informal survey of shoppers on the streets Occupation: Student whereas if the same were to Shopping at: Gap happen in the U.S. to of Paris on a sunny day last week found that Thoughts on American French products, the conse- most of them have no intention of boycotting brands: “I would never boy- quences would have been U.S. apparel brands because of the war in Iraq. cott American brands much worse. Myself, I Here’s what they had to say: because I wouldn’t want ordered a pair of Seven people to boycott products jeans from Urban Outfitters from my country. I love the just yesterday.” NATHALIE JUILLIER style at the Gap and the sun Age: 45 (outside today) makes me HELENE WAPLER Occupation: Financial director want to buy.” Age: 28 Shopping at: Quiksilver Occupation: Lawyer Change in shopping habits: “My shopping habits haven’t NELLY RAOU Shopping at: Gap, Charles changed yet.” Age: 50 Bosquet, and Apostrophe. Thoughts on American brands: “I only wondered if Occupation: Secretary Thoughts on shopping and Quiksilver was American when I was paying for the Shopping at: Gap American brands: “I think I item. I just think of an item’s quality and style and not Thoughts on American brands: “I don’t boycott have bought more this year the brand’s origins. American brands because I don’t want the Americans to than last year. I’m in a shop- “I wouldn’t boycott American brands such as boycott French products. It’s a bit ridiculous…the only ping mood. I would never Quiksilver and the Gap. However, to be completely hon- thing that would lead me to boycott a brand would be boycott American products; est, I would eventually boycott global companies such forced child labor. The weather motivated me to shop.” I don’t think there is a as Coca-Cola or McDonald’s, which represent the side direct relationship between of America I don’t like.” LAURENCE LE BORGNE political and economical Age: 30 activity, at least not in prod- Occupation: Restaurant ucts such as clothing and MARIE-JO NEVES services beauty products. But I Age: 28 Shopping at: Gap and Zara wouldn’t be as sure about Occupation: Window Thoughts on American the link between Bush and designer brands: “I am very annoyed Texaco. OK, maybe I would Shopping at: Zara with the American govern- boycott gas from Texas.” Change in shopping ment. However, I would habits: “My shopping never boycott their prod- SANDRINE LEVALLOIS habits haven’t changed ucts. Besides, American Age: 23 since the beginning of the products are so integrated Occupation: Sales represen- war. I have purchased into our daily lives it is tative several items from stores impossible to boycott them. Shopping at: Etam such as H&M, the Gap, I did, however, cancel my Thoughts on shopping and Zara and Mango. I love vacation to the U.S. with my American brands: “I was not the cheap and chics.” family. I always buy clothes shopping for anything in Thoughts on American for my son at the Gap, and particular, just browsing brands: “I am against the for myself, too, of course. around with my mom. I am war but I am not anti- And I haven’t changed my not changing my shopping American; it’s important budget.” habits in any way these not to mix the two.” days, and I would not do it WWDWWDFurFur In Depth Section ll

dress coat NEW YORK — Designers have a light touch when it comes to their newest and sexiest fur looks. Skinny, almost weightless, coats can even double as dresses. Here, one example: Vera Wang’s high-necked goatskin version. Consolidation has impacted the business, but new contemporary styles and attention on designer runways have helped rejuvenate one of the oldest and most luxurious markets in fashion. SHION ASSISTANT: KEREN HAUPTMAN; SERGIO ROSSI BOOTS; STYLED BY BOBBI QUEEN BOBBI BY STYLED BOOTS; ROSSI SERGIO HAUPTMAN; KEREN ASSISTANT: SHION PHOTO BY DAVID TURNER; MODEL: CASSIANE/SUPREME; HAIR BY CHRYSTOPH FOR VIDAL SASSOON; MAKEUP BY BELLA PILAR FOR SALLY HARLOR; FA HARLOR; SALLY FOR PILARBELLA BY MAKEUP SASSOON; VIDAL FOR CHRYSTOPH BY HAIR CASSIANE/SUPREME; MODEL: TURNER; DAVID BY PHOTO 2 SECTION II

FUR IN DEPTH out with the old WWD, TUESDAY, APRIL 1, 2003 WWD, TUESDAY, By Rosemary Feitelberg Donna Karan Ralph Lauren Having long relied on more conservative shoppers, furri- sent some fur also gave ers are welcoming younger customers in their 20s and 30s down the runway. fur some who tend to be more adventurous with their fur purchas- show time. es than their elders. Instead of relying on tried-and-true styles that used to work from one generation to the next, sportswear and ready-to-wear designers are giving the $1.53 billion fur industry a fresh charge. Well aware of how their customers are looking for versatile pieces instead of special- occasion styles, they are changing their mix accordingly. “Fur is now a fashion-driven product, whereas in the past, it was only linked with status,” said Thomas Steifel Kirstensen, director of international communications for SAGA Furs of Scandinavia, a group that promotes fur design. “Now it’s multilingual — it’s about glamour, hip- hop and prestige.” That’s come in part with interest from such high-pro- file, young-hearted partygoers as Serena Williams, who have taken to wearing fur to glam up their images. Rappers like Eve, who turned up for the Phat Farm fashion show in a J. Mendel white mink, have also helped jazz up what was once something reserved for opening night at the opera and other more sedate black-tie affairs. Designers have also been embracing the category in a major way and that type of unprecedented endorsement has electrified interest among shoppers, especially those who take their cues from fashion magazines. Carmen Marc Valvo, Ralph Lauren, Donna Karan, Versace, Gucci and Jean Paul Gaultier all sent fur coats and fur-trimmed items down their fall runways, even though they do not have licensed fur collections. “The fur industry has to look outside the traditional fur market to sell its product. There are only 1,200 independent fur retailers,” said Steve Gold, marketing director for SAGA. “Small specialty stores are a strong new territory. lishment and handwork.” Up until now, furriers may have not pursued that area. Those finishing touches also help to jack up the price There are all different price points now. Buying fur can be of a coat, with prices peaking around $30,000. Schulman not anything more than buying a designer wool coat.” estimated that 40 percent of de la Renta’s collection has Mink and fox are the biggest sellers, with Persian lamb, handpainting, beading or embroidery. It works particu- rabbit, sable, chinchilla and coyote also popular, Gold said. larly well on broadtail, sheared mink and sable. With rabbit coats starting at a few hundred dollars and a This winter’s chilly temperatures also gave Alixandre Russian lynx coat selling for upward of $75,000, the price Furs’ sales a lift. range seems to accommodate a greater range of budgets. Schulman said, “Many women realized they need to With more designers showing fur on the runway, re- be warm and they need a fur coat.” tailers are buying fur coats to round off sportswear and Dennis Basso said he’s noticed a wake-up call among ready-to-wear collections, instead of placing them in fur Generation-X, a group that furriers have not pursued ag- salons. The media’s coverage of fashion shows and trends gressively in years past. is helping the cause, as well. In turn, shoppers are more Generation-Xers are coming into their own and “girls inclined to use editorial and ads to shop for furs, said who weren’t interested in furs, jewels and clothes have Nick Pologeorgis, president of Pologeorgis Furs, which become interested in those things but are interpreting makes the Michael Kors, Zandra Rhodes and Chado them in their own way,” Basso said. Ralph Rucci fur collections, as well as private label. Women between 25 and 35 are responding to “very “Our customer has definitely gotten younger and she fun…cropped jackets” and Basso is among the labels try- wants to wear fur more times a year [than the traditional ing to get onboard with that portion of the market. customer.],” Pologeorgis said. “She’s more inclined to Financially, times might be tight, but fashion-forward wear short coats in different colors.” shoppers are still indulging in investment pieces like The company is attracting more women in the 30- to Manolo Blahniks and fur coats. 45-year-old age bracket, compared to 35 to 50, as was the Reached in Milan looking for new techniques late last case a few years ago. The youthful spirit is evident in the month, Basso said more legwork is needed to appeal to uptick in sales of waist-length mink jackets. Pologeorgis’ those more stylish customers. annual sales are running about 5 to 10 percent ahead of “In creating a more contemporary look, you really last year, he said. Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue need to be on top of it,” he explained. “You can’t just and other stores are doing a better job of merchandising make someone a magnificent sable coat. That’s why I’m than they have in the past, he noted. here looking for something new for that customer.” “They have great buyers who have a modern eye, instead The average age of a fur customer is now in the mid- of buying what they’ve been buying for years and years,” he 30s compared with 48 in 1995, according to Kirstensen of said. “Their risk of showing some new things is paying off.” SAGA. In sync with the rest of the fashion industry, they In addition to sportswear looks, Pologeorgis expects are drifting toward more quality furs like minks and fine sales of capes, shrugs and other evening pieces in mink, workmanship. sable or fox to increase this fall. The latter gained mo- Many customers are opting for lightweight, reversible mentum this winter, due partially to a backlash to casu- Continued on page 6 al dressing. “People like to get dressed up when they go to special occasions,” he said. FICA’S Five-Year Lowdown on Fur Sales “They want to look glam- orous and fur makes women TOTAL RETAIL FUR SALES 2001 2000 1999 1998 1997 look beautiful.” $1.53 billion $1.69 billion $1.40 billion $1.21 billion $1.27 billion Brett Schulman, presi- Dennis Basso dent of Alixandre Furs, the threw a book maker of Oscar de la Renta CHANGE IN RETAIL SALES 2001 2000 1999 1998 1997 party for furs, said: “If people are buy- Stores Reporting Increases 67.2% 68% 74.6% 33% 50% Rena Sindi ing a new coat, they want Stores Reporting Decreases 19.4% 0% 11.1% 46% 29% to attract something unusual. Fur younger doesn’t change that much, Stores Reporting No Change 6.1% 74% 74.6% 59% 60% customers. but we’re doing more embel- Lauren Bacall 1968 Brigitte Bardot 1970 Gisele Bündchen 2002 Cher 1986 Joan Crawford 1969 Bette Davis 1968 Catherine Deneuve 1989 Marlene Dietrich 1969 Faye Dunaway 1978 Linda Evangelista 2001 Judy Garland 1968 Rita Hayworth 1970 Lillian Hellman 1976 Audrey Hepburn 1987 Lena Horne 1969 Sophia Loren 1982 Shirley MacLaine 1977 Liza Minnelli 1973 Jessye Norman 1980 Diana Ross 1973 Barbra Streisand 1968 Elizabeth Taylor 1989 ? 2003 ______

What Becomes A Legend Most®? BLACKGLAMA® ® AMERICAN LEGEND MINK WWD, TUESDAY, APRIL 1, 2003 4 SECTION II SECTION FUR IN DEPTH IN FUR J. Mendel’swhiteminkwrap. trends warming trends warming new trend,abevyofcharminghandbags. tie orbuttonclosed;hats,trim,and,amajor extras: boldfurneckpiecesthat vintage-style day. Then there aretheoptional for nightortoneddownandtailored that resemblesleopard,whiteglammedup That meansinventivereversibles;lippecat designers aregoingfortheunexpected. now are long, luxurious,classicandcozy— looksthat traditional givenseachseason— moment forfurs.Whilethereareplentyof It’s an anything-goes NEW YORK —

PB EL IA O AL ALR FSINASSAT EE APMN TLDB OB QUEEN BOBBI BY STYLED HAUPTMAN; KEREN ASSISTANT: FASHION HARLOR; SALLY FOR PILAR BELLA BY UP 5 WWD, TUESDAY, APRIL 1, 2003 MAKE SASSOON; VIDAL FOR MARTEN CRYSTOPH BY HAIR LISA/ELITE; CASSIANE/SUPREME; SAUM/ID; ABIGAIL MODELS: TURNER; DAVID BY PHOTOS Dennis Basso’s lippe cat hat and coat. Dennis Basso’s lippe cat hat and coat. Natori’s Mongolian lamb and leather bag. Natori’s Mongolian lamb and leather bag. mink hat with mink hat with leather flowers. leather flowers. Cassin’s sheared Cassin’s sheared Anne Dee Goldin’s Anne Dee Goldin’s ribbon-tied fox collar. ribbon-tied fox ribbon-tied fox collar. ribbon-tied fox 6 SECTION II

FUR IN DEPTH out with the old WWD, TUESDAY, APRIL 1, 2003 WWD, TUESDAY,

Continued from page 2 Young celebrities styles with special details such as short- are trying on fur haired mink that can be plucked as thin as for size. Here, knitwear. Mink pashminas could be next Serena Williams winter’s big thing, he said. draped in mink “The top end of the business is about at a Sports design and quality, not price resistance. Illustrated party The difference is consumers want to know earlier this year. what they are buying. Fur has been rather absent from the general shopping venue for a few years and it might be difficult for them to distinguish the different fur types. Fashion has more questions and curiosity about fur and we welcome that.” Furriers need to be outgoing about ex- plaining the various new styles and price points. In the last three years, the number of stores carrying fur coats has tripled to 1,200, with more department stores and fashion-forward specialty stores giving fur salons some real competition. With Versace, Gucci and Gaultier showing fur in their men’s wear shows in Milan, the category should only gain more fans, he said. In addition, fur has made its way into interior design in throws, blankets and cushions, he added. Driven part by Americans’ continued desire to be home- bodies and their longing for all things luxurious, fur home furnishings should con- Carmen Marc Valvo has also dabbled in fur. tinue to attract buyers, he added. Anne Dee Goldin, president of Goldin something they haven’t worn in years.” Feldman, which produces her signature Most importantly, memories of this line, said: “The lines are blurring be- winter’s heavy snowfall and frigid tem- tween outerwear, sportswear and acces- peratures should help speed up the buy- sories. Fur is so pervasive in all classifi- ing cycle for fur, she said. Instead of cations. It’s so much more expansive bringing in fur in October, more stores than what I thought the fur business will be likely to put it on their sales floors could be. It’s so totally accepted as a part in August, as was the case years ago. of a woman’s wardrobe and lifestyle.” Goldin added that stores should be When she joined her father’s business more inclined to hold off on marking fresh out of college in 1980, “it was all down sale merchandise in January, as about wearing that one fur coat and you has become the norm. could wear it over and over,” she said. Over the years, that must-have item shifted from a raccoon coat, to a ranch mink coat with puffed sleeves, to a Perry Ellis-inspired coat with a back belt and so on. Fur Facts “Now, it’s really a lifestyle. Women want something to wear when they’re a AVERAGE PRICE OF BETTER SELLING FUR COATS: $5,676 soccer mom or going out to dinner or to a black-tie affair,” Goldin said. “It’s like having just the right bag for everything. PERCENT OF FUR SALES It’s the new must-have item.” Mink 55% All this attention should also bode well for the storage and repair business, which Shearling 10.8% has faltered in recent winters due largely Fox 5.1% to unseasonably warm weather, she added. “Last year, it was too hot and they had- Sable 2.4% n’t worn their fur coats, so they didn’t both- Other 28% er storing it,” she said. “Now, they have Cashing Out BREAKDOWN OF SALES 2001 2000 1999 1998 1997 All Fur Items 50.7% 54.9% 62.8% 55% 52% Fur-Trim Items/Accessories 10.2% 8.3% 8% 7% 6% Non-Fur Items 12.4% 10.7% 7.1% 10% 7% Fur Service 26.7% 25.5% 22.2% 29% 30%

economy and employs more than 85,000 people, according to the Fur Council of Canada. Showtime for Furriers Around the Globe With more than 80 percent of Canadian fur and pelt ex- ports going to the U.S., the event is popular with American NEW YORK — Despite Fur Fashion Week basically becoming a 21 companies sending their outerwear down the runway. buyers. NAFFEM is the largest fashion industry event in one-day affair and moving from May to April, other fur-relat- Even the show, which tended not to be a rushed affair in Canada and one of the biggest luxury outerwear shows in the ed events remain intact. years past, is getting a few touch-ups. “The show starts at world. Last year, the show turned 20. The Fur Information Council of America’s annual fashion 6:30. We’ll be prompt this year,” a FICA spokeswoman said. Those willing to trek overseas for their furs can attend the show will be held April 8 at 6:30 p.m at the Puck Building. The North American Fur & Fashion Exhibition of Montreal Seoul International Fur Fair Sept. 22-25 at the newly reno- Royal Chie, Vera Wang, Cynthia Rowley, Zuki, Sorbara, Ben will take place May 4-7 at Place Bonaventure in Montreal. vated Convention & Exhibition Center. Fur and leather outer- Kahn and Zandra Rhodes for Pologeorgis will be among the The fur trade contributes $800 million annually to Canada’s wear, footwear and accessories, as well as machinery. DESIGNER’S CHOICE

SAGA Mink® and SAGA Fox® are quality labels respected by the fur and fashion industries worldwide.

E-mail [email protected] for more information on Saga Furs of Scandina- via’s designer programs. WWD, TUESDAY, APRIL 1, 2003 8 ab rn — sot ad hc okn, Hartington looking,” chic and “sporty — front lamb persian curly black a with jackets sweater cashmere zip-front $2,500 several sold Collections Marissa show, trunk Lange Rena recent a From lifestyles. their match that outfits create to collections different the from items taking customers in resulted together,designers mix has to which is employed has with thetrend.” up catching really now are Americans but Europe, in dressed have people way the always was “It lines. designer American and Italian French, small of lot a and brands well-known carries Collections Marissa store 10,000-square-foot whose said Hartington, days,” these dress people way the that’s cause available to customersasencroachingontheirterritory. widely are that fur of options new the ing view- than rather well, as departments, their of look the reinventing and invigorating of means a as trend this welcomed have retailers fur old-line the woes, way collectionsoverthepastthreeyears. run- high-end in fur of treatment revolutionary the to thanks floors sportswear designer on and linings and trim as departments outerwear in bags, and hats gloves, on departments accessories in up turns today Fur trade. coat mink the on focus that retailers ty special- and stores department within salons vaulted collection. Cassin the from poncho mink a with along right turtleneck mere Valentinoa and pants Galliano John buying cash- are Hartington Marissa describe howcustomersatherNaples,Fla.,boutique to listen to stores is specialty nation in the merchandised across is fur way the in — YORK NEW By Eric Wilson SECTION II SECTION from Dolce&Gabbana. A brightyellowcoat FUR IN DEPTH IN FUR Among the merchandising techniques Hartington techniques merchandising the Among be- today, store our in everything mixing “We’re its has still industry fur traditional the While to restricted was fur when days the are Gone themerchant class All it takes to grasp the radical change radical the grasp to takes it All the Fashion Coterie, traditionally a sportswear a traditionally at Coterie, Fashion the sell to vendors fur first the among was instance, for Cassin, merchandised. and marketed is the medium way the change helped that coats fur for cepts con- new with up coming by Nineties the in charge the led Trilogy and Goodman Feldman,David Goldin- Kahn, Ben Cassin, like Companies Avenue. Seventh off Street 34th of south District Fur tional Cassincollectionisbasedinthetradi- Sherry Cassin, whose said apparel,” the with in mixed be to got posed to“furriers.” op- as designers, rtw luxury as themselves position that companies from coming particularly products, fur modern for clients strongest their of some coming FranciscoSan be- near are Burlingame that of Susan N.Y.,and Manhasset, in Hirshleifer’s Collections, an amazing coatdoneincharcoalgraypersianlamb.” had Prada gloves. long wear can women so look, Fifties a sleeves, three-quarter with coat shoulder off-thean is trends new beautiful the of One fabulous. also was collection runway fall Prada Valentino.The and Galliano with in trims with our jackets and of sweaters all mix to is merchandising of trend the like seems “It said. Hartington way,” same the selling are collectionsforfallstock,shesaid. and ready-to-wear fur designer’s the into bought has and weeks coming Marissa the in show trunk Mendel sophisticated”). J. a hosting also is Collections (“very mothers their to pants cashmere or flannel gray and chic”), (“very customers some to turtlenecks cashmere jeans black navy and with sold was fox black in trimmed is that tweed trousers. loose with sweater the paired generation older the while it with along go to pants black Laurent Saint Yves bought customers young but — said “The presentation for fur in fashion stores has stores fashion in fur for presentation “The Marissa like stores specialty to point Furvendors which jackets, on trims doing also is “Valentino Lange Rena from vest hand-embroidered Another A Prada Fifties look. A PradaFifties shaved mink,ormink cuttolooklikecorduroy. or sheared of case the in way,whether younger much much, a in shown being is it now ladies, uptown for strictly something as of thought ditionally tra- been had fur Where past. the in has it than ways innovative more in shown being is “Fur Goodman. Bergdorf of director fashion senior and dent presi- vice Burke, Robert said accessories,” fur and fur in trend strong a one, last this in particularly and tailers tooperatetheirfurdepartmentsindependently. re- large only the as boutique, Mendel J. a features also which Goodman, Bergdorf and Marcus Neiman leaves That collections. fur licensed have that names er design- of influx an with grow to continued have others while sportswear, some and products new in bringing Fifth Avenue, Macy’sandHoltRenfrew. Christensen, whichalreadymanagedfursalonsatSaks Birger to sold eventually were assets its and late Nineties, the in bankruptcy for filed Field’s, Marshall and Bloomingdale’s at salons with decades two past the of much for retailer fur largest nation’s the was which Evans, hands. changed or Avenue, Fifth on Revillon like close, to began America in stores fur famous most the of some as retail, at consolidation by altered tically cessity.dras- been has market retail fur traditional The events. To us,furisatextile.” special for out comes just that ring diamond new a as We’re tomakesomethingthat’s soprecious jacket. nottrying SUV new mom’s soccer every be to poncho shearling our consider We out. night Saturday a just for not basis, daily a on wardrobe their into mixed be with can it how see can customer the in so sportswear the mixed be to needs fur modern, be “To said. trade show, andattheCaliforniamarkets. “We have certainly seen in past three fall seasons, fall three past in “Weseen certainly have by thrived and adapted have stores fur small Some ne- by driven was course, of changes, these of Part Cassin area,” one in out pushed “Furbe shouldn’t Carolina Herrera’sbeltedlamb. Continued on page 11 page on Continued TUESDAY APRIL 8 AT 6:00PM

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(;3A1 W ELLE DEPARTURES ROBB REPORT 10 WWD, TUESDAY, APRIL 1, 2003 nicate its message — that wear- that — message its nicate PETA’slieves commu- to efforts be- he said organization, based Va.-Norfolk, the with paign cam- fur the for coordinator on Sixthlastyear. 7th at own its of one sponsoring to fur featuring shows way run- disrupting from and farms, fur on animals of treatment the showing videos undercover to models half-clad featuring ads lighthearted from varied have tactics fur.Its buying stop to shoppers convince to effort an in years the over proaches ap- of variety a taken has 1980, and antiquity. cruelty of one to indulgence and luxury of one from fur of perception the change to trying minds, consumers’ American in image latter the emphasize to worked has Animals of ment Treat- Ethical the for People decades, two For derthal. nean- a and socialite a both of costume the in see to expect would moviegoer a that terial a statussymbol,butofwhat? — YORK NEW Scott Malone By SECTION II SECTION FUR IN DEPTH IN FUR Andrew Butler,campaign Andrew PETA,in founded was which ma- only the probably Furis

Ultra Sheared Mink

Sorbara Furs undeniably is It 150 West 30th St., New York, NY 10001 212-594-3897 peta power peta lion. A 33.3 percent rise in rise percent 33.3 A lion. mil- 2.7 to percent 18.4 dropped farms those by produced pelts of number the period, that Over 351. to percent 54.5 by dropped U.S. the in operating farms available —thenumberofmink is data which for year recent most the — 2000 through 1990 from that reported Agriculture tion oftheapparelindustry. consolida- overall the mirrors that trend a — decades few past the over sharply declined has U.S. the in operating turers symbol toasocialliability.” status a from shifted has fur of image whole minds…the their from eclipse can they images of sorts the not are these carcass, skinned a is result end the that animals caught insteel-jawlegtraps,and or cages of wire filthy in cramped images these seen have people “Once claim. that back to data cite not could he though asserted, he try,” indus- fur the with wrong deeply something is there that know has beenlargelysuccessful. — cruel is them manufacturing of process the that and sary unneces- is garments fur ing h US Dprmn of Department U.S. The manufac- fur of number The now people of majority “The catching consumers’attentionwithhumor, PETA’s adshitfortheheartstrings. Celebrities includingPamela AndersonhaveappearedinPETA’s ‘I’drathergonaked thanwearfurcampaign.’After fur-industry promotiongroup. a to according decade, past the duction, fursaleshaverisenover foxes, coyotesandbeavers. mostly — wild the in caught are fur their for killed animals the of percent 20 to 15 About tion. produc- fur U.S.’s the of jority rise 5.6percentto$90.6million. to pelts the of value total the allowed time that over prices Keith Kaplan, executive di- executive Kaplan, Keith pro- in decline the Despite Mink farmsrepresentthema- ne te eiin f top of decision the enced influ- campaigns its and ers design- on focused organization Anderson wrapped innothingbutsigns. Pamela to Go’s Go- the group pop the from one every- of photos featured has which campaign, advertising fur” wear than naked go rather over thepastdecade. grown has industry overall the that indicating fur, on billion $1 about spent Americans — downturn a in was economy U.S. the which in year another — 1992 in that noted he However,decline. the influenced also attacks terrorist 11 Sept. the following spending luxury in dropoff and down slow- economic the that noted He 2000. from cent per- 9.5 off billion, $1.53 to came — data had he which for year recent most the — 2001 in U.S. ably lessthanpeoplethink.” prob- impact, some was “There said. he PETAwas,” of pact im- the what out break to hard it’s so components, big three being weather the and fashion economics, certainly industry, the affect that things many so sponse toPETA’s campaigns. re- in partly Eighties, late the in activities its up stepped sharply group His movement. rights animal- the of independently habits fur-buying Americans’ influenced have things many said Calif., WestHollywood, in based America, of Council FurInformation the of rector Through the Nineties, the Nineties, the Through “I’d its started 1990 in PETA the in sales fur that said He are There tell. to tough “It’s “ years. the over change attitudes — Andrew Butler, People’s ” n’t factorinto their thinking. does- cruelty — fashion by solely driven is fur buy to whether of question the consumers, it willcomedowntosales.” ultimately, but environment, the or suffering animal about damn don’ta who give some are “There designers, apparel of said nator, the business. drive ultimately that dollars it’s that recognizing consumers, on efforts its of more focused has and leather, inthelines. fur both products, animal using not for known become have McCartney,Stella vegetarian the as such designers, Other business. fur the of out drop to Klein Calvin including names tudes changeoverthe years.” atti- “People’s said. he weaker,” grow dissenters and stronger grow advocates its movement, titude couldcatchonintheU.S. at- of sort that believed he said He lives. solitary live wild the never beendomesticatedandin have minks that given cruel, was practice the that cern con- of out illegal farming mink made Nineties late the in U.K. ment iscruel. amuse- for death the to fight dogs watching that agree would many and dogs, eating not about agree would Americans most instance, for — country the through standards common many are there vary, “cruelty” constitutes what of standards the while and animals, mestic do- and pets of treatment the with dealing books the on laws have currently states 50 All fur. on change slowly will attitudes Americans’ that confident feels hl dciig o comment to declining While some for that, said Retailers coordi- campaign the Butler, PETA years, recent in But “As with any social reform social any “Aswith the that out pointed Butler PETA Butler said PETA said Butler certainly isfur.” those of one and trends fashion to respond customers Our trend. the to responding tainly cer- is customer the and fall for trend important an been “Furhas said, cus Mar- Neiman based Dallas- for man spokes- a PETA, on o hs part, his For 11 WWD, TUESDAY,WWD, 2003 1, APRIL Alexander McQueen’s the merchant class car coat.

Continued from page 8 coat business anymore. It’s also in ski areas where “Certainly, Gilles Mendel (of J. Mendel) has set a shops are carrying more fur and accessories, which standard for innovative design in fur and it’s definitely has been a real push in the past few years.” become a statement for the past few seasons from an Jason Dittrich, manager of Hal Dittrich Furs in accessories standpoint. Prada helped launch that a Detroit and Bloomfield Hills, Mich., said such changes few years ago with the fur collar and ribbon tie that re- are also reflecting on the patterns of traditional fur ally showed people how to use fur as an accessory coat buyers, who are similarly looking for more sporty item in a variety of ways.” and casual coats. Among the fall highlights, Burke pointed to “We’re tending to see people move away from black Alexander McQueen’s rabbit coat with metallic bor- and dark colors, so we’ve been reducing our inventory dering, fur lining and trims from Valentino, bright furs of mahogany and the luna range for a while,” he said. from Etro and Dolce & Gabbana, and Oscar de la “The majority of people are looking toward the Renta’s brocade coats with fur collars that evoked an brighter colors and specialty items, such as more element of St. Petersburg as potentially driving what capes and vests than we have in the past. Our cus- sells in fur trends. From accessories, he cited Prada’s tomers in Michigan can be a little behind in the fash- Oscar de la Renta’s crocodile gloves. ion times, but there’s definitely a trickle-down effect.” brocade with fur trim. Mendel highlighted several fall trends, as well, that are likely to drive sales: layering fur with more than one type of fur on another, such as a fox bolero over a broadtail trench; belting a a mink cape with a studded crocodile belt to make it more modern; new innovations such as fox coats that reverse to sweaters, quilted minks that reverse to raincoats or stretch fur; and some retro looks like pastel minks and leopard print coats. So many designers from the ready-to-wear and sportswear markets have incorporated fur into their collections over the past few years that it becomes more difficult to gauge just which departments or stores are driving the most sales of fur, since some feel seeing fur as a designer trend has pushed more customers into traditional fur stores, while there are still sensi- tive issues within other stores as to whether adding fur to sportswear departments could take sales away from their fur salons. FURS To some degree, that’s a moot point, since as much as 80 percent of the fur that is shown in designer collections is con- tracted to the highly specified factories of the traditional furriers, said Bennett Model, president of Joseph Model Asso- ciates, a fur buying office that also consults on the market for clients of The Doneger Group retail buying office. “What’s happening is that de- FALL . WINTER 2003 partment stores are becoming more important in the fur business,” he said. “Designers are also taking a bigger position in furs. A lot of women who would- n’t normally walk into a fur department will now because they’re seeing it in the designer collections where they never saw it before. That means you’re getting a lot of younger customers and impulse buyers who normally wouldn’t walk into a fur store. BY APPOINTMENT “Bergdorf Goodman and Saks Fifth Avenue have fur in every different part of the store now, and that’s the big evolu- tion. It’s not just a basic mink

150 WEST 30TH STREET 13TH FLOOR NEW YORK, NEW YORK 10001 PH: 212. 736. 5550 12 WWD, TUESDAY, APRIL 1, 2003 big name to close his show,his close to name big Liza as a for looking Rolodex his through flipping still is Basso 28. May on Cipriani’s Harry at dearest and est near- his of so or 600 for bash a — yet show biggest his host to plans FurFashiondown Week, toned he decidedly year’s this to proach ap- on-with-the-show an taken has for20years. in thefurindustry role leading a played has Basso Dennis bravura, for fondness and voice baritone Withhis THE SHOWMAN practices areequallydiverse. business their form, to True winter.come coats, some sell to charisma than more need tempted byoldstandbys. remotely won’tbe and fur of face changing the with tune in are shoppers know also They shows. Karan runway their in fur some showed Donna and Ralph Lauren Rucci, Ralph Kors, Michael like names big that now flair, some show to pressed be. may case the as idiosyncratic, or tic individualis- equally is furrier every personality, own its has — YORK NEW SECTION II SECTION FUR IN DEPTH IN FUR One of the few designers who designers few the of One will they know furriers But bit a are designers Fur Montreal 238 Booth May4-7,2003 NAFFEM 213-489-4684 Tel Nogg Barbara Los Angeles 312-527-1750 Tel Feder Michael Chicago 212-921-8744 Tel Zeidner Michael New York Offices: Sales 212-921-8744 Tel New 10018 NY York, 303 Suite Seventh525 Avenue OXANOffice: Head Just as every fur every as Just h t sm line what’s my $10,000 like a reversible mink reversible a like $10,000 under anything and strong” ly “extreme- is chinchilla or sable like $25,000 over anything said Basso extremes, about qualms thepush.” ion togiveeveryone fash- some and weather cold tle lit- a takes just it — fur wearing is Naomi Even priorities. higher today,”“Peoplehave said. Basso world the in on going is that everything with especially to, modeling it. now are fur off swore once who supermodels and punch some lost has Animals of Treatment ion spreads.” fash- in fur used magazines and runways their on fur used ers design- streets, the over all was “Fur said. he years,” five least at in remember can we winter aren’t scheduled. shows fashion more why stand under- doesn’t Basso industry, bands orboyfriends. hus- their bring can clients his so night at event the hold will he day, the during show the staging of Instead past. years in done have other and Trump, Ivana Minnelli, Just as any eccentric has no has eccentric any as Just dictated be to wants one “No Ethical for People the Even coldest the had just “We’ve the for sorts of ringleader A okn fr oehn mr spe- more something for looking is shopper The value. intrinsic with fur, as such products, about oring foraminkhobohandbag. clam- been also have Customers Goodman. Bergdorf at boutique and store Avenue Madison his at bestsellers are jacket bolero fox silver bleached stretch, a and coat mink super-sheared tailored a closure, turn-key a and panels suede with coat seven-eighths sable barguzine a coat, mink corduroy velvet younger customers. by desired stylishness rent cur- more the of aware well but richluxury eye, cherishingfur’s roaming a with artisan aging an like category the proaches ap- Mendel Paris,Gilles in shop Saint-Honoré Rue a from hails who furrier third-generation A THE ARTISANS would addtotheirwardrobe.” they else anything like fur for shopping are “They said. Basso it,” buy they before times eral sev- coat a on try to back coming not are Customers clothing. of article an buy,like impulse jacket isalsohealthy. “Right now, I believe it is it believe now,I “Right three-button a example, For “Fur has almost become an become almost has “Fur ae fr s” age said. Badgley us,” for faces in someunsuspectingplaces. outerwear weather cold the sell to and customers new some up pick designers the helped has them perfectly,” Badgleysaid. fit to pieces custom make times some- and customers the with involved very get They good-bye. it’s and it ship you coat, tiful the furbusinessis. “couture-oriented” how with been areallyfunprojectforus.” has This boundaries. no are There us. from coat fur typical a want don’t just They new. thing some- wants Everyone rules. no are “There said, Badgley furs, Badgleysaid. plucked short-hand shaved, Renfrew.Furthe liked also fans Holt and Avenue Fifth Saks as such stores with flight took tion BC collec- International-produced their in coats dlength mi- embroidered or Beaded fur. into journey first their for Voyager” “Now from ration inspi- drew Mischka James and Badgley Appropriately,Mark THE ROOKIES cales insearchofinspiration. lo- other and Bangkok India, Shanghai, Barcelona, London, visited has she alone year This travels. her from spiration in- gets she said Landau styles. other and items trim fox ling, shear- goat linings, fur rabbit with suede embroidered as well as boleros, like jackets short outerwear,of on is emphasis the terms In line. her to added she’s accessories new the among she didwithart. as just concept, a as fur of think to prefers Landau hours, for sketch and sit to one not was she as Just sense. artistic her maintained has Landau art, diaristic start to helping with credited was time one at who artist conceptual and painter former fur.A to proach ap- artistic an takes who designer andbolerosforsummer.shrugs fox featherweight even and collections ready-to-wear and gowns made-to-order his with work that spring for furs weight light- — season every for furs incredible comfort.” and indulgence sick both about is Furobject. an of value lasting the about more and press about less is “It said. he unique,” more cial, “There have been a lot of new of lot a been have “There business fur the into Getting beau- a make you just not “It’s impressed were duo The year, rookie his up Summing u-nt edad are headbands Fur-knit another is Landau Adrienne making is Mendel that, Given priced under$1,000. be will item other every and jackets blouson sweaters, paca al- shoppers, younger to peal ap- To named. be to yet has but 30, and 15 of ages the between women at aimed is that group a includes collection temporary con- new Her production. label’s her up heads and week a days seven works she business, this in years 32 after that is, her about bits andsheepskinitems. rab- like points price opening more and sable, and chinchilla like items high-end more ing offer- to partially due 15,600, to percent 30 by climb to sales unit year’s this expects Cassin coats, duster and cardigans ponchos, vests, her for Known samples. up pick to Fridaynight a on out dashing or contractors to skins fur hauling as work grunt such doing above isn’t who chant,” mer- “progressive a as herself of winter.”was suchabrutal it because earlier fur about ing think- be will Women prepared. be to want will people cause be- year stronger a be will it question no “There’s shoppers. with hit a be to season next expects already she levels, both On stores. fur conventional more for geared collection fur a and boutiques, at aimed vests fur and jackets fox short like items novelty has collection two-fold sportswear.Her for fondness his shares Goldin Rodriguez, sonal stylesarequitedifferent. hattan’sFur per- their but District, Man- in Street West30th 150 at space showroom share Cassin Sherry and Goldin Dee Anne THE ROOMMATES come toseewhatwe’re doing.” people of lot a so U.S.], the [in collection the before weeks eight “Weshow said. he collection,” our of part It’s business. separate collections. the during Milan in Tesoshows Guilana competitors, their with shows fashion their ordinate nology andtelecommunications. tech- development, research, in interest its symbolize to Pluto, planet the of image an uses that line trendy a Byte, of charge in is Marco brother His signer. de- line’s the mother, his after named is which business, the runs who Teso Carlo said wear, outer- in sales million $21 total the of percent 30 for account fall. to expected are sales this American Marcus Neiman like stores better to outerwear fur its of more introducing is company the stores, specialty to the Americanmarket. after going is business, family based Italian an Teso, Giuliana THE ITALIAN CONNECTION you willsellafurcoatthesedays.” where know You never California. PalmSouthern in sunny and Beach sales biggest our of some had have we that much so “Womentravel ? What most might not know not might most What think to likes she said Cassin Narciso of friend A “Wea be don’tto furs consider co- who furriers most Unlike items selling just of Instead — Rosemary Feitelberg 13 moving on up TUESDAY,WWD, 2003 1, APRIL

By Joshua Greene New York, as well as the Aspen store. To ensure his customer finds something new each NEW YORK — Furriers have friends in high places. time she comes into the Aspen store, Basso designed a As if selling luxury goods wasn’t already difficult collection of lighter-weight coats and accessories for enough in the city, fur retailers have decamped for the spring and summer. The sportswear features suede mountains to set up shop in some of the most stylish and pants, skirts and blouses, along with a group of hand- lofty of places, including Aspen and Vail, Colo.; Park bags and totes of linen and crocodile. City, Utah; Sun Valley, Idaho, and Jackson Hole, Wyo. Though they’re a far cry from cold weather, if Basso However, resort businesses face a series of challenges were to open another location it would most likely be different from most city retailing. Cash flow can be tricky, in Las Vegas or Beverly Hills — two destination spots since many customers are only in town for short periods Basso said makes sense for fur retailing. Basso has of time. Also, deliveries can be delayed because of weath- held trunk shows in the Palace Hotel in Gstaad, er and securing long-term salespeople is no easy task. Switzerland, and cited St. Moritz, Switzerland, and Despite the nuances found in any niche market, how- Cortina d’Ampezzo in Italy as other upscale European ever, most mountain town retailers only close for several ski destinations where fur is popular. Currently, weeks of the year, usually in April or May. While fur is no though, Basso’s sticking to the U.S. doubt a winter-weight material, new technologies in the New York furrier J. Mendel opened its second free- way fur can be used — knitted or shirred, for example — standing store in Aspen over the holidays with a splashy means lighter-weight items worn in a casual way, such as benefit party where customers could buy goat-fur coats a knitted poncho over jeans. The use of fur directly with bleached with silver fox trim for $9,000, mink ponchos denim has increased too, making for versatile pieces for $8,000 and chinchilla coats for $55,000. In its first J. Mendel (top) and Dennis Basso (above) both opened like fur-trimmed denim jackets worn on chilly nights five days, the store had sales in excess of $250,000. boutiques in Aspen over the holidays. common during the summer months in high climbs. “Our decision to open a store in Aspen had much to According to New York furrier Dennis Basso, peo- do with our focus on servicing our client,” said designer tomers in Jackson Hole, Wyo., for 30 years. Operations ple are more inclined to spend money when they’re on Gilles Mendel. “The J. Mendel woman, whether she lives manager C.J. James said Yellowstone National Park vacation — another reason for entering a resort retail in New York or Los Angeles, is the woman who vacations and its four million annual visitors help keep the com- market. The designer said he has made some of his in Aspen. Furthermore, we have always created a tone of pany in shape. Plus, the popularity of furs in that town most significant luxury purchases while vacationing après-ski chic, and Aspen in America — like St. Moritz in has increased over the past several years. and knows his clients do the same. However, he said Europe — is a logical home for a brand with this look.” Mill Valley makes its own shearling and leather his East Coast customers — many of whom have homes Mill Valley Sheepskin & Leather Co. has been sell- coats out of its factory in Mill Valley, Calif., and buys in Aspen — buy fur items from Saks Fifth Avenue in ing shearlings, leather coats and full-length furs to cus- the full-length furs in Montreal. • Midwestern U.S.: Bernard Kahnert Outerwear 800-393-3082 • Quebec & Maritimes: & Quebec • 800-393-3082 Outerwear Kahnert Bernard U.S.: Midwestern • Distributed by ITA Ltd., Head Office: Sandy Ginsberg & Judy Samoluk 800-265-4363 • New York:TerriNew • 800-265-4363 Samoluk 212-730 Judy Scarcella & Laura LynnGinsberg & Sandy Office: Head Ltd., ITA by Distributed Agence Lydie Vialette 514-387-6319 • 514-387-6319 LydieVialette Agence

www FICA April 8 .shearlings.com

-4379 FASHION FUR 2003 14 WWD, TUESDAY, APRIL 1, 2003 SECTION II SECTION survey says: two Yves SaintLaurent FUR IN DEPTH IN FUR Jean Paul Gaultier coat in his show last year,out last sold Pologeorgisshow his in coat mink reversible a Korsshowed After lines. fur Rucci Ralph Chado and Rhode Zandra Kors, Michael the makes firm whose Pologeorgis, said sales, build ultimately and pieces those of search in stores into customers lead help will types ofcollections.” different all in being up wind should it and knockoffs always Furs.Pologeorgisare “There of Pologeorgis Nick said year,’” this for look able itemlikeajacketoraccessories. afford- more a for opt might they coat, full-length a for splurge not might consumers though Even catwalks. the on shown is what to ever than more in tuned are shoppers since businesses, their fur.for fondness newfound ers’ design- welcome furriers squabble, feud-type — YORK NEW More than anything, fur on the runways the on fur anything, than More important an is ‘This said: have “Designers help will revival runway fur’s insist They

nta o stig f a family a off setting of Instead

Sonia Rykiel n h Sihoin H wud ie o e fur see to like would He Smithsonian. the in rests now outfit day inauguration Kennedy’s Jackie for designed he muff mink Cassini Oleg The noted. Goodman Halston, and Simpson Adele Norell, Norman of likes the with alliances his for Designers” the Furrierto “steadily” overthepastfewyears. sales increase helped have and Goodman David from trims fur get who designers fur 20 the among are Mischka Badgley and Renta la owner.de namesake Oscar company’s the said sportswear, and ready-to-wear fur-trimmed in interest designers’ to due sales on impact rect knows what’sontherunways.” really customer fashion The orders. in crease in- an seeing “We’realready said. Pologeorgis sales,’ more into translating that’s and able of the$9,000style. i fte Gs a ncnmd “The nicknamed was Gus father His di- a seen has Goodman David most, Unlike fashion- more be to dressing are “People t WWD, TUESDAY, APRIL 1, 2003 MAESTRI DAVIDE AND GIANNONI GIOVANNI BY PHOTOS 15 Fendi Gucci Versace — Rosemary Feitelberg Rosemary — Thomas Steifel Kirstensen, director of in- His colleague, Steve Gold, marketing direc- Along with the publicity, many furriers are and not classic. It’s fashion.” ternational communications for SAGA of Furs Scandinavia, said: “What’s been presented on the catwalks is being shown for real consumers in a modern way.” tor for SAGA, noted that designers have strong brand identities abroad through their freestanding stores and international distribution. He added: “The world is shrinking. The woman who sits in a hairdresser in Beijing is reading the same fashion magazine as a woman who sits in one in Moscow.” picking up some extra business through designers who source their fur items for the most part, said Ed Graf, president and owner of Ben Kahn Corp. “The more people designing and using he said. the better it is for the industry,” fur, Alexander Alexander McQueen Prada

Designers’ unofficial endorsement helps “If anything becomes a trend, it definitely ˆShoppers today are more adroit about tak- “Fur “Fur is being seen again as a luxury prod- business “100 percent,” said Sherry Cassin. “It shows fur is being done in new ways and not jut a it’s long mink coat coming down the run- It’s way. lifestyle dressing — it’s casual, young helps our business,” she said. “Buyers really focus on trends today and customers are really focused on what they see in magazines.” ing fashion cues from runway looks and celebrities pictured in magazines, said Adrienne Landau, who capped off Calista Flockhart’s and Mira Sorvino’s Oscar attire with a little fur. uct that is something to aspire to,” Goodman said. had “Fur lost some of its cachet after some stores started offering 50 to 70 percent discounts all winter long.”

regain some of that five-star glamour. regain some of that five-star t humbs thumbs up nMONTREALaffem MAY 4 - 7, 2003 ● PLACE BONAVENTURE

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Montreal NAFFEM provides direction in an evolving marketplace. Only at NAFFEM will you find all the important sources in one convenient location, just one hour from New York city. Whether you buy for one specialty boutique or for a chain of department stores, our 200-plus exhibitors from Canada, U.S.A, and Europe will give you a jump on the competition.

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trol,” said president Blake Nordstrom. “Our team is taking appropriate action to respond to current conditions, however, sales are a key performance driver and based on current trends, we felt it was prudent to adjust ex- pectations.” The firm said it believes that general consumer demand has softened since January and the conflict with Iraq has further impacted results. Jennifer Black, an analyst with Wells Fargo Securities, said she believed the Nordstrom’s sales shortfall is attributable to macroeconomic and geopolit- ical issues, rather than with the merchandise, which she described as well balanced and appealing to its core customers. “Although the current environment is making it tough for Nordstrom to generate positive comps, we Women’s wear nominees are Carolina Herrera, Marc Jacobs, Donna Karan and Narciso Rodriguez. continue to believe the company’s product mix looks well balanced and substantially better than what we are seeing in the more traditional, as well as the more upscale, department stores,” she wrote in a research note. Black anticipates an acceleration of markdowns in CFDA Announces Award Nominees, Winners April and lowered her first-quarter earnings estimate to 19 cents from 28 cents. Continued from page 2 Ellis Award for accessories this year, with Brian Goldman Sachs analyst Adrianne Shapira is also Kors. For accessories, Marc Jacobs and Carlos Falchi Atwood, Holly Dunlap for Hollywould and Gunmetal’s looking for Nordstrom’s first-quarter profits to come are back for a second round, this time competing George Gublo and Michael Spaulding as nominees. in at 19 cents a share. Additionally, she noted, “The against Ted Muehling, a fine jewelry designer who “This is truly a democratic process,” Arnold said of combination of war with Iraq, unseasonably cool has a store on Howard Street in New York. For those the nominations. “The results certainly demonstrate weather and a late Easter shift has exacerbated al- counting, it’s Jacobs’ third consecutive accessories there is a nice depth and breadth of nominees and ready soft consumer demand for most mall-based re- nomination and his fourth consecutive one for men’s honorees. The board was really pleased with the tailers beyond Nordstrom. However, Nordstrom’s lofty wear, or at least since the CFDA started announcing nominees presented today.” valuation of 13.2 times fiscal 2003 earnings per share nominees for the categories in 2000 instead of just Members of the nominating committee will now estimates appears even more unwarranted. We contin- the winner. vote on the finalists to determine the winners, who ue to rate the shares in line across our neutral cover- The Perry Ellis Award also has two repeat nomi- will be announced at the CFDA ceremony on June 2 age view.” nees this year in the ready-to-wear category — Zac at the New York Public Library. As reported, the Posen and Behnaz Sarafpour — plus a new one, event is being co-chaired by Herrera, Calvin Klein Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough of Proenza and Vera Wang. Schouler. The award traditionally given to new talent While Swarovski is also underwriting the event, in regards to American brands because of the war. I’m also has a new name: Swarovski’s PerryEllis Award.the CFDA also has partnered for services with certainly not going to wear black because there is a war. For the first time, the award is being underwritten by Style.com, which will act as its official Web site; 60 “It’s not because Americans boycott French products an external company, which will make some sort of fi- Thompson, its official hotel, and Ernst & Young, its of- that I feel like doing the same thing. And I don’t have nancial support to the winners over the next year, ficial accounting firm. The event will be produced by anything against American brands, more against Bush said Peter Arnold, executive director of the CFDA. KCD this year, with decor designed by Robert Isabell himself. If I were to boycott, it would be a more emblem- The CFDA also is bringing back a Swarovski’s Perry and art direction from Douglas Lloyd. atic brand like Coca Cola or McDonald’s, which I don’t eat anyway.” EMILIE CHOUARD Age: 19 Occupation: Student designer Daniella Clarke, who is also incorporating the quasi- Shopping at: H&M cabaret Pussycat Dolls in the show. Chili Pepper frontman Change in shopping Fashion Scoops Anthony Kiedis walks the runway Thursday night at the habits: “Now, I would not Standard for former girlfriend Yohanna Logan who designs change a thing in the A PRINCELY GARDEN: The Prince of Wales already is a farmer, under the Shawn label. Also walking that night are Christina way I dress. I just bought baker and butcher. Now, add furniture to the list of products Aguilera, Taryn Manning and Paris Hilton at Jeremy Scott’s two tops at H&M because made by his charitable foundation, the Duchy Collection, performance show at the Palace in Hollywood (the “Dirty” pop they were so cheap. I which focuses on sustainable farming, forestry and food diva will enter in a new Scott confection based on sponsor like certain brands. I production. The new line of chestnut pieces, which includes Gillette’s pink “Passion Venus” razor in exchange for a usually shop at Mango or chairs, tables and benches, is made of wood harvested from $50,000 donation to her favorite charity). Kookai. I am not spend- the prince’s Aconbury Wood in Herefordshire. The furniture will Thursday also will have Robert Downey Jr., Shakira and Lee ing less because of the be the centerpiece of the store windows at Burberry’s 57th Ann Rhimes on hand at the Ghost show at the Standard. Back war in Iraq and I would Street flagship in New York and its Bond Street shop in at the Standard Friday night, Petro Zillia is seating Dominique not change my shopping London, which are today installing royal garden parties in Swain, Lisa Marie and Kirsty Hume. And, at Saturday’s habits regarding brands hopes of beckoning an early spring. The visual displays also Smashbox Studios run, which includes Rami Kashou and because of it either. I will include typical English-garden staples, such as lifelike Eduardo Lucero, Kelly Osbourne, Macy Gray, Amy Smart and don’t intend to boycott renderings of maze hedges, a table set for tea and mannequins China Chow are expected to show. any American brand.” dressed, naturally, in Burberry garden-party attire. Now, all they need is the White Rabbit and Cheshire Cat. NOT QUITE A TALKING HEAD: Is Britney Spears turning her pop CAROLINE VIDAL diva headset in for a TV host mike? What started out as a Age: 31 STANDARD ISSUE: Even though war is on his doorstep, air-raid quick video clip to screen during the debut this week in Los Occupation: Waitress sirens have put him on edge and his sales are down 45 Angeles of Joey and T — the duo who dress Spears, Rachel Shopping at: C&A percent, Kuwaiti retailer Majed Al-Sabah of Villa Moda is Leigh Cook, the cast of “American Idol” and other youngsters Change in shopping keeping his sense of humor during a difficult period. Over the — has become a full-fledged making-of-a-fashion-show-type habits: “I often go to C&A weekend, Al-Sabah had to smile when he learned that a major documentary. Footage so far shows her playing the role of because it’s close to my shipment of Prada destined for his Villa Moda retail complex — celebrity interviewer — which she may continue at job and because it’s not some 300 boxes of shoes, handbags and clothes — were Wednesday’s early afternoon show at the Downtown Standard expensive. I am not chang- mistakenly collected from the Kuwait City airport by the U.S. — if she’s up to it. She’ll sit out the show as a spectator, but ing my shopping habits Army. The goods were taken to its warehouses north of the city hitting the catwalk are Jamie Presley and the Hilton sisters — right now, but if the war in Camp Doha, which supplies troops with equipment, food and who are giving the local models a bit of competition this week lasts a long time, it will other necessities. Army officials identified the errant Prada with the many shows they’re doing. As for the film, which will affect the economy in the shipment on Sunday and were rerouting it to Villa Moda on presumably be finished with the stylists-cum-designers’ bow, long run and then I will be Monday. “I was so worried it was going to end up somewhere in Spears and her friends are said to be hoping to shop it to more careful about how Iraq,” Al-Sabah said. “And I didn’t want to see it on CNN.” MTV, HBO or some other network. Any takers? much I spend. Because we live in Europe, we are not THAT’S WHAT FRIENDS ARE FOR: Designers bowing at Los MENKES BUSINESS: As construction crews swirled about so affected. I have family Angeles Fashion Week, which gets under way full blast with raising the tents at the Downtown Standard in Los Angeles, in South America and I the Imitation of Christ show this afternoon at the Avalon International Herald Tribune scribe Suzy Menkes was heavy in know that since the begin- Hotel, are getting a little help from their famous friends, a tete a tete with Richard Tyler on the café patio. It’s been ning of the war, everything natch, many of whom are locals. Reese Witherspoon, Wes quite a visit for Menkes. She came to town to cover the is more difficult over Anderson and Mena Suvari are confirmed at best friend Tara Oscars (only to find herself shorted of some of the glitz, as there. At this point, I Subkoff’s IOC show; across town, Marisa Tomei will be at Elisa she grumbled at the WWD Oscar fete March 19, with the would not boycott Jimenez. At the Standard Wednesday, singer Vanessa Carlton is advent of the war) and has since stayed on three weeks later, American brands because attending Cynthia Vincent’s Twelfth Street debut, while Nikki popping up at the Juicy Couture HQ in dusty Pacoima and of the war.” Costa and Darryl Hannah are supporting gal pal/Frankie B. about town with her silver-speckled camera. 10 Textile & Trade Report DuPont-Koch Flu Fears Make Quiet Interstoff Textile Talks By Constance Haisma-Kwok HONG KONG — Nervousness about the atypical pneumonia out- Seen Continuing break affecting Hong Kong led buyers to shy away from Interstoff By Scott Malone WWD, TUESDAY, APRIL 1, 2003 WWD, TUESDAY, Asia, the region’s most important textile fair. Many heeded the words of the World Health Organization, which advised travelers not to NEW YORK — One barrier may visit the territory unless necessary. As of Monday, there were 530 re- have been lifted last week in the ported cases of severe acute respiratory syndrome in Hong Kong reported negotiations between and 12 deaths. Authorities here closed all schools for a week and is- DuPont and Koch Industries sued a quarantine order for those who have any symptoms of SARS. about the sale of DuPont’s fibers For organizers, the effects on Interstoff Asia were devastating. They business to the Wichita, Kan.- had been expecting about 10,000 visitors, but by the third day of business based petroleum giant. it was clear that the number of overseas visitors would be down between As reported, the arbiter han- 30 percent and 40 percent. Final figures have not yet been released. dling the dispute between “We expected that with the outbreak of war, there would be DuPont and Unifi Inc. over a joint fewer visitors from the U.S. and Europe, but after [the SARS out- manufacturing agreement found break], we just didn’t know what to expect. The number is certainly no evidence of a “substantial an all-time low,” said Katy Lam, general manager of Trade Fairs for breach” of the agreement and

Messe Frankfurt (HK), which organizes the event. JONES GARETH BY PHOTO plans to conclude arbitration by Buyers weren’t the only no-shows. Nine exhibitors pulled out of Traffic was light at last week’s Interstoff Asia, due to the severe acute the end of the month. the event as well, seven of them from Thailand. respiratory syndrome threat. That dispute, in which DuPont “Everybody got so scared that the boss had to come!” exclaimed sought $85 million, was described Phongsak Assakul, president of the Thai Textile Manufacturing promote India’s textile manufacturing capabilities. Devangshu by market observers as a minor Association, referring to himself. He added that the flu, combined Dutta of industry vehicle Creatnet Services asserted: “The compari- glitch in DuPont’s quest to unload with war in the Middle East, was causing considerable trepidation son between China and India is unfair. They both have a place. its $6.3 billion DuPont Textiles & in the region. “I watch CNN and BBC and the war is getting longer Even after quotas go away, buyers will still want diversity.” Interiors division. In February and longer. People just aren’t sure what’s happening.” Thailand’s Assakul agreed with the assessment of China’s cur- 2002, the Wilmington, Del.-based Despite the significant drop in traffic, there was a concerted effort rent capabilities. industrial giant said that it planned to conduct business as usual. Sammy Chan, director of Black Peony, “We can compete with a place like China,” he asserted. “Its indus- to spin off that unit through an ini- which has an office in Hong Kong and its factory in China, said that try has not consolidated — they are more horizontal than vertical.” tial public offering, if possible. she had received numerous “e-mails from buyers saying they weren’t Assakul is leading a group of Thai textile producers in a venture coming because of the flu. We are a little bit worried. The situation is called Thai Tex Trend. The partner companies hired an Italian con- pretty clear — we will have to travel to the U.S. to see our customers.” sultant to help them predict future trends. This is She added that in spite of current events, the company, which “For years we did what buyers told us to do, but now we are proac- “ specializes in denim, has been expanding its China operations in tive rather than reactive. The government has been supportive — this probably the the run up to 2005, when quotas on textiles and apparel will be takes a lot of time and investment,” he said. “Local designers are be- dropped by the 145 nations of the World Trade Organization. ginning to realize that we can produce great fabrics in Thailand. We best offer that Expanding business in the region and looking for local partners have to change our way of thinking. Thailand only produces 2 percent was the dominant theme of Interstoff Asia. China’s enormous of the world’s fabrics. Instead of fighting amongst ourselves for a DuPont is going growth potential had a big influence, with buyers and manufactur- share of the 2 percent, we need to go after the other 98.” ers alike jockeying for position and partnerships. Also going after its cut was Ingeo, the new brand from Cargill Dow. to get. Jeffrey Edelson, executive vice president of Westchester Lace Martin Vintner-Jackson, head of global marketing for Ingeo, said ” Inc. of North Bergen, N.J., said, “The war and the flu won’t last very that Ingeo had already found representatives in Hong Kong, Taipei, — James “Rusty” Ford, long, but economies will.” Shanghai and Seoul. Hyosung (America) Inc. Edelson added that he was on his first visit to Hong Kong, look- While Ingeo’s use of natural starches to produce fibers caught ing for different fabrics and “new vehicles to print on.” the imagination of some visitors, so did a few major trends. Here However, sources said that “We are always looking to the future,” he said. “You have to be aware are the most noteworthy: since the soft stock market has left of what’s going on in Asia. Economies are moving very fast and if we are ● Denim continues its strong showing in Asia – especially in indi- investors with little appetite for ini- to continue manufacturing in the U.S., we have to move even faster. We go, which was favored by buyers and manufacturers alike. tial public offerings — and since have to be able to turn over quickly, so we need good partners in Asia ● Ethnic prints, particularly those with African or Asian influences U.S. textile stocks in general have and everywhere. You have to be in all four corners of the world.” were popular. Masai trim and Indonesian batik both made appearances. not been seen as an attractive in- An executive at the U.K.-based company Cloverbrook agreed ● Floral prints were very strong. Most were delicate and had an vestment option for several years with Edelson. Asian bent, with lots of peonies, butterflies and grasses. Silk was the — selling the unit to a private Mike Tiffney, export manager for the brand, said Cloverbrook fabric choice across the board for these prints. buyer appears the best option. The had just signed a joint venture deal to manufacture its high-per- ● Nautical looks also came on strong. Cotton in bold colors like problem is that DTI’s massive size formance fabrics in South Korea. navy blue, white and yellow, played a big role as did “techno” inter- — it’s by far the largest textile “It eats into profits to do everything in the U.K.,” he admitted. Tiffney pretations of nautical stripes. company in the U.S. and perhaps said that Cloverbrook chose a South Korean partner because “the tech- ● In terms of color, Interstoff was awash in washes. Tie-dyed cottons in the world — means that there nical fabrics we make just aren’t in China at the moment — and we became in melon, strawberryand lemon. Printed silks were in pretty pastels are few companies with pockets lieve that the people we chose in Korea are as good as we are.” — most ranging from pink to brown to sage, although there was a strong deep enough to make a bid. Tiffney envisions buyers sourcing fabrics from whichever factory showing of rich chocolate tones, deep red and charcoal gray as well. As reported, Koch has report- is closest to where they plan to manufacture garments. edly offered more than $4.5 bil- “We can have quicker response and shorter lead times,” he said. lion for the DTI unit. The privately Becky Bennet, material development manager for Berghaus, a owned company does not report U.K. performance-wear brand, applauded Cloverbrook’s move: “If its financial results, but is said to they can keep U.K. quality but reduce the cost by manufacturing in Quota Watch: First Quarter have revenues in excess of $40 Korea, then we’ll definitely buy their fabrics again.” billion a year. On a revenue basis, Bennet, who buys many fabrics from Taiwanese companies, was At the end of the first quarter, eight countries had consumed more than 35 percent of that would make it bigger than looking for performance fleece and waterproof material for outer- their total quota allocation for the year in each of 11 apparel categories. Bangladesh DuPont, which last year reported wear. It was such demand for high-function fabrics that gave non- quickly filled three quota categories, including cotton trousers, which the country over- $26.7 billion in sales. Chinese companies hope, and many of them were touting their re- shipped last year — it was allowed to borrow against this year’s quota, but was penal- A DuPont spokesman on search and development skills rather than price. ized heavily and therefore has a much smaller quota limit this year. India quickly con- Monday declined to confirm the Joy Hsiao, sales manager of Taiwan’s Strong Light Enterprise, said, sumed cotton knit shirts and blouses, which the U.S. embargoed last year, and negotiations, as did a Koch “In China the prices are so cheap that it’s hard to compete. We’re de- Myanmar had a high fill rate in man-made fiber trousers, which was also embargoed spokeswoman. DTI officials also veloping fabrics that are different than what comes out of China.” last year. Here’s a look at the apparel quota categories that had the highest fill rates at declined to comment. His firm specializes in Formotex, which he describes as “similar the end of the first quarter: “This is probably the best in tension and hand feel to Tencel [lyocell], but much cheaper.” offer that DuPont is going to get,” In the meantime, a strong Indian contingent set up a seminar to COUNTRY PRODUCT QUOTA LIMIT USAGE TO DATE* said James “Rusty” Ford, vice president of the Charlotte, N.C.- Bangladesh Cotton trousers 3.2 million dozen 57.1 percent based Hyosung (America) Inc., Myanmar Man-made fiber trousers 26,342 dozen 50.4 percent the U.S. unit of the South Korean United Arab Emirates Cotton trousers and shorts 770,664 dozen 42.5 percent fiber giant, a DuPont competitor Bangladesh Cotton knit shirts 2.2 million dozen 39.0 percent that sells Creora spandex. He said DTI would be a logi- India Cotton knit shirts and blouses 5.4 million dozen 38.9 percent cal fit in Koch’s portfolio. China Man-made fiber swimwear 699,762 kg 38.1 percent “They’re looking for downlinks Mexico Men’s wool suits 213,496 suits 38.1 percent for their chemicals and resins,” Bangladesh Man-made fiber trousers 2.4 million dozen 37.2 percent he said of Koch. “This could be TIGER BUTTON CO., INC. something where they could con- TIGER TRIMMING, INC. Sri Lanka Dresses 655,453 dozen 35.6 percent trol pricing a little bit better and Macedonia Men’s wool sport coats 25,815 dozen 35.2 percent reap a bigger reward.” 307 West 38th Street New York, NY 10018 Sri Lanka Cotton trousers 1.6 million dozen 35.0 percent Koch already owns one fiber (212)594-0570 800-223-2754 FAX (212)695-0265 business, KoSa, which includes the email: [email protected] www.TIGERBUTTON.com SOURCE: DONALD FOOTE, DIRECTOR OF THE AGREEMENTS DIVISION AT THE U.S. DEPARTMENT OF COMMERCE’S Continued on opposite page OFFICE OF TEXTILES AND APPAREL * USAGE TO DATE IS AS OF MARCH 26 11 expensive bag, particularly given New Yorkers should expect that to 2003 1, TUESDAY,WWD, APRIL how she feels about animal rights. happen around April 15; it will MEMO PAD To send her an ostrich bag? It’s arrive on national newsstands a being returned.” week later. Benetton Appoints CUT AND PASTE: What price Seventeen declined comment. The launch issue will carry retouching? — Jacob Bernstein some advertising as well, thanks For Seventeen, about $3,500. to the efforts of freelance That’s how much sources said the FINALLY ON THE RADAR: It does publishers Larry Burstein and Fiat’s Cassano CEO magazine spent to try and keep exist after all. Despite industry Elinore Carmody, who stepped in May cover star Sarah Michelle musings that Radar may have even before Roshan’s original MILAN — Benetton Group SpA dency of Fiat’s consumer servic- Gellar from taking legal action after simply been the result of Maer team of Aaron Sigmond and George put a former Fiat executive in es unit last year, Cassano head- Seventeen significantly airbrushed Roshan’s fertile imagination, the Brightman departed. Calvin Klein, the driver’s seat Monday after ed up the carmaker’s leasing her photo for its current cover. startup magazine was printed in Prada, and Oscar De La Renta are posting its first-ever full-year and financial activities. Earlier, According to sources, the Ohio this past weekend, with among the “high” in the ad loss. he was vice president of Euro- magazine was provided with a Roshan himself babysitting the equivalent of Radar’s “high-low” Silvano Cassano, president pean operations for Hertz. pick-up shot of Gellar by her first press run after last week’s mix, with the latter being of Fiat’s consumer services Benetton said in early March handlers, which Seventeen then allegedly bumpy close. represented by Gap (the back unit since last year, will be- that De Puppi “reached his ob- played PhotoShop with, changing The staff apparently cover), Target and Fox News, come chief executive officer of jectives” by selling off the com- details in her wardrobe and in her discovered a small flaw in among others. — Greg Lindsay Benetton on May 12, following pany’s struggling sports assets, pose so the shot wouldn’t be Roshan’s journalistically-pure the firm’s annual meeting. He which include the Nordica and recognizable to readers. strategy for handling celebrities, A MONKEYWRENCH FOR GEAR?: At will succeed Luigi De Puppi, Rollerblade brands. On Friday, Mission accomplished: Gellar which is to ignore their publicists press time, WWD learned that Gear who was expected to leave Benetton agreed to sell its came off looking like an alien. to write around them and use magazine had laid off a significant after completing the firm’s ex- Prince and Ektelon brands to So when the soon-to-be former pick-up photos instead of staging portion of its staff. One Gear pensive exit from the sporting Lincolnshire Equity Fund II LP Vampire Slayer expressed shoots. The problem was that employee circulated an e-mail goods business, which weighed for $39.4 million. displeasure at being recast as photo director Bradley Young Monday afternoon describing the heavily on 2002 results. As reported, news of De “E.T.,” the teen title dispatched couldn’t clear the rights to a shot magazine as “temporarily Bogged down by write-offs Puppi’s departure coincided an assistant from its fashion of cover subject Jennifer Lopez, suspending operations” and said it from sporting goods ventures it with an announcement that department to buy a green ostrich said a source close to the would close its offices. Founder has since sold, Benetton posted the Benetton family was relin- skin Prada handbag (priced magazine. The final close dragged and editor Bob Guccione Jr. said a net loss, as expected, of $10.6 quishing its daily management exactly at $3,445) late last week out an extra day as Young and through his assistant, however, that million for the year ended Dec. role to a new set of executives. and sent it to her handlers in an Roshan scrambled to replace it the magazine would not be ceasing 31, versus net income of $160 Luciano Benetton will stay on effort to patch things up. with another, the source said. publication, but he did not million in 2001. Operating prof- as chairman but in an almost Unfortunately, they were Sources said that apart from comment on the layoffs. The it slid 15.1 percent to $262 mil- “honorary” capacity, the com- unimpressed. yet-another J.Lo job, one of the magazine has had difficulties in lion from $308.5 million. Benet- pany said. “What they should have gotten premier issue’s centerpieces is the past and struggled to find a ton said that stripping out the That management shakeup was a Birkin Bag. What a total “Monsters Inc.,” a compendium niche with advertisers. Writers also write-offs and other one-time comes amid increasing compe- waste of money,” said a source of some of the worst bosses in the often complained about missed costs, its net profit would have tition in Italy’s moderate mar- close to the star. “If you’re going business, including Martha payments (one pitched a tent been $138.6 million, a figure it ket, which is dominated by to try to make up with her, at least Stewart and producer Scott Rudin. outside Guccione’s office and expects to surpass in 2003. small, family-run stores and make it the best.” No word on whether Roshan’s old refused to leave until paid). There Revenue slid 5 percent to until recently, few chains. “It looks like an alien foot boss at Talk, Harvey Weinstein, is also have been production $2.15 billion from $2.27 billion Hennes & Mauritz AB will open attached to her arm” said her included, however. problems with recent issues. As as stable apparel sales com- its first Italian store in Milan lawyer, Marty Singer of Lavely + Roshan denied a cover photo reported, September’s issue did pensated for a steep drop in come September. Inditex’s Zara Singer, who said that a complaint swap, and declined comment on not reach newsstands until revenue at the sports division. opened a Milan flagship last had been sent to the magazine the issue’s contents overall. “You’ll October, and the magazine’s next Dollar figures have been con- year and has plans to open and its publisher. “And it’s not find out all about it when the three issues were also over a verted from the euro at cur- three to five more stores in Italy going to be resolved by sending a magazine comes out,” he said. month late. — G.L. and J.B. rent exchange rates. next year. Before assuming the presi- — Amanda Kaiser Reported Koch Bid for DTI Seen As Most Likely Option Continued from opposite page former polyester business of Celanese, which was known as Trevira. KoSa started as a joint venture of Koch and Imasab, the Mexican conglomerate run by Isaac Saba. But in 2001, Koch bought out its partner and now re- tains sole ownership of the business. Basil “Sonny” Walker, president and chief operating officer of the Greensboro, N.C.-based U.S. arm of nylon maker Nylstar Inc., said the DTI-Koch connection “does make sense.” Koch is in the basic raw materials business“ and DTI could be a route to market. It’s going to take someone of that size to be able to buy something like DTI. — Basil “Sonny” Walker, Nylstar ”Inc. “Koch is in the basic raw materials business and DTI could be a route to market,” said Walker, a former DuPont polyester executive. “It’s going to take someone of that size to be able to buy something like DTI.” He said that in the absence of such a megadeal, DuPont’s only other likely option for DTI would have been to have a piecemeal IPO, selling off the business in 20 percent chunks over a period of years. DuPont executives have said they want to separate DTI, which already operates as a freestanding unit, by the end of this year. DTI includes DuPont’s Lycra spandex, generic spandex, nylon and branded polyester specialities business. While DuPont’s generic polyester filament business, which was the subject of the dispute with Unifi, is not part of the DTI unit, sources said the dispute with Unifi could still have been seen by Koch as an impediment. Observers said they expected that if the Koch-DTI deal happens, Koch would look to sell the Lycra spandex business. Spandex uses different raw materials than polyester and nylon, which makes it less of a strong fit for a petroleum firm. As reported, sources said that Steve McCracken, president of DTI and a DuPont group vice president, is believed to be comprising an investor group to try to bid for the Lycra business, which he headed before being promoted to head DTI. Still, observers said it’s not clear what might happen to DTI if this deal falls through. For a time early this year, it looked like investor interest in textiles might be picking up following Warren Buffett’s bid for bankrupt Burlington Industries, a move that some said might spark new investment in the sector. But that light of hope went out when Buffett dropped his bid. “If you look at the textile industry here in the U.S.,” said Nylstar’s Walker, “there’s no one large enough to step up and buy DuPont.” 12 PRADA EXPANDS: Prada Japan Dollar figures were converted at for February averaged 119.26 yen opened a 10,000-square-foot, current exchange rates. to the dollar, an 11.8 percent Yurman’s Swiss Timing directly operated shop in Ginza, Sales of apparel and appreciation from a year-ago level Tokyo, last weekend. It will be miscellaneous goods, which of 133.31 yen, the ministry said. By Melanie Kletter “He lives there and will work followed by another Prada shop, accounted for 32.2 percent of Apparel imports from the with suppliers,” Yurman said. with six floors, in Aoyama, Tokyo, in total sales, dropped 6.3 percent United States in February fell NEW YORK — Watches are a red- “We believe we will be able to June. The Ginza store was last year, although “casual basic 28.2 percent to $20.2 million, hot category these days and David get a much better quality prod- inaugurated by Patrizo Bertelli, items sold well, as well as while shipments from the Yurman is seizing the moment to uct and have better deliveries.” chief executive of the Prada Group, European Union (EU) rose 3.8 build up its timepiece business. At the same time, Yurman The namesake New York jew- also is building its watch team who flew in from Milan. The store, percent to $166.2 million, elry and watch firm today plans in the U.S. The company has which has three floors, is expected according to the ministry. to have sales of about $23.3 — T.F.

WWD, TUESDAY, APRIL 1, 2003 WWD, TUESDAY, to cut the ribbon on the 2,100- hired Michael Miarecki, the for- square-foot headquarters of its mer marketing director at million in its first year. Prada said new subsidiary in La Chaux-de- Michele Watches, to oversee the unit did about $432,000 worth GOING IN: Japanese designer Kansai Fonds, Switzerland, which will sales and marketing for watch- of business in its first three days. Yamamoto is moving into the facilitate the development, pro- es, a new position in the compa- Prada Japan, the company’s wholly Chinese market for designer-brand duction and distribution of ny. The David Yurman watch owned subsidiary, posted sales of clothing through licensing. Kansai David Yurman timepieces. line is now sold in about 250 “When we first started watch- doors, however, Yurman said the approximately $250 million in ASIA WATCH has engaged the services of Osaka- es in 1999, we initially wanted company plans to scale back its 2002, up 10 percent from the based Intellectual Property Corp. the watches to mix in with our distribution to about 175 doors. previous year, with an increase of 15 garments with trend essence,” (IPC), which specializes in managing cable jewelry collection,” de- “These are not mass-market percent forecast for the current year. said the firm. brand and licensing businesses, signer David Yurman said in an watches,” Yurman noted. “We Meanwhile, Prada is looking at In fiscal 2002, the firm had according to an executive of the interview with WWD. “Now, we want to take it more exclusive.” another way to expand its brand extraordinary losses of $49.5 Kansai Yamamoto design house. The have really evolved this part of Yurman said he doesn’t think image in Japan: plans are under million, including losses from move reflects the growing affluence our business and we are making scaling back will affect watch a real commitment to it.” sales, since the company plans study to establish roadside shops writing off merchandise inventory. of Chinese consumers, which is Yurman’s watch business to build up its business in each in Osaka and Fukuoka on the In fiscal 2003, Muji had attracting foreign design houses in now racks up about $20 million location, and also will be doing southern island of Kyushu. extraordinary losses of $31 million. increasing numbers. in retail sales, while the compa- more advertising and marketing — Tsukasa Furukawa For fiscal year ending February — T.F. ny’s overall business has sales for its timepieces to grow sales. 2004, the firm projects sales of of about $450 million at retail. Prices for the company’s EVER UPWARD: Clothing, stationery $987.5 million, a 2.9 percent TOUGH GOING: Overall department The opening of the new firm, watches start at about $1,450 and and home furnishings retailer Muji increase, and net profits of $33.3 store sales in Japan in February called David Yurman SA, comes go up to about $24,000 for styles at the start of the Basel World in gold, with the bulk falling in had a enormous leap in net profits million, 70.2 percent up from a edged down 0.5 percent from a year- Watch & Jewellery Show, the the range of $3,000 to $5,000. to $19.6 million for the fiscal year year earlier. earlier level to $4.57 billion, marking watch industry’s largest and Most of the watches are automat- ending Feb. 28 from a break-even — Koji Hirano the 11th consecutive month of most important trade fair, ic, although some quartz styles performance in the prior year, decline, according to the Japan which begins in Basel, are available. New styles being according to its parent Ryohin GOING DOWN: Apparel imports into Department Stores Association. But Switzerland this Thursday. The introduced in Basel include a ti- Keikaku. The parent company Japan from China declined 15.6 sales of women’s wear rose for the creation of the new firm marks tanium and steel chronograph operates 265 Muji shops percent in February from a year first time in six months on a year-on- the first time Yurman has estab- and a new women’s collection throughout Japan, 16 units in the earlier to $854.4 million, but the year basis to $1.1 billion, up 0.8 lished a separate company out- called Madison, which includes side the U.S. an attachable case that can be U.K., four in France and one each country continued to be the percent. Men’s wear sales went up David Yurman SA is headed paired with a cable chain or in Ireland and Hong Kong. Muji had dominant supplier to Japan, 0.5 percent to $314 million, by watch executive Jean-Marie leather strap. sales last year of $960.3 million, 4 accounting for a 71 percent share according to the association’s report, Constantin, who had represent- Yurman jewelry is now sold percent down compared with a year of total imports of $1.2 billion, which covered 290 stores of 102 ed Yurman along with other in about 450 doors, including earlier. Operating profits increased according to the Ministry of department store companies. brands. Now, Constantin is Neiman Marcus and Saks 22.4 percent to $56.3 million. Finance. The yen’s exchange rate — T.F. working exclusively for Yurman. Fifth Avenue. Obituary Henry Racamier, 91, Led Vuitton Expansion

By Robert Murphy stores in France with annual the late Eighties. Racamier, played a vital role in commis- volume of less than $10 million. then Louis Vuitton chairman, sioning and sponsoring some 50 PARIS — Henry Racamier, one Sensing the brand’s potential, faced off against Bernard operas and 50 new musical of the architects of Louis he aggressively opened units Arnault following Vuitton’s 1987 scores. He has received numer- Vuitton’s early growth and a around the world and devel- merger with Moët Hennessy. ous awards of French merit, in- popular business figure in oped Vuitton on a global scale. After two years of legal and pub- cluding the Legion of Honor, for France, died Saturday after suf- By 1990, Vuitton had 140 stores. lic relations battles, Arnault ulti- his efforts. fering a heart attack while on In 1985, Racamier listed the mately won his quest in 1990 Racamier was also a pas- holiday in Sardinia. He was 91. company on the Paris Bourse and Racamier was ousted. sionate sailor. Under his guid- The Paris Opera, of which and diversified his portfolio, In recent years, Racamier, ance, Louis Vuitton became the he was a patron, announced his acquiring the Givenchy and through his Orcofi luxury goods official sponsor for the chal- death on Monday. Loewe fashion businesses, as holding company, had held minor- lenger regatta leading up to the A self-made steel magnate by well as the champagne produc- ity stakes in such companies as America’s Cup, now known as career, Racamier married into er, Veuve Clicquot. Ines de la Fressange and Lanvin. the Louis Vuitton Cup. the Vuitton family in 1943. But he is perhaps best known Racamier was an avid patron Racamier is survived by his Henry When Racamier assumed the for being at the center of the of the arts. In 1986, he created wife, Odile, and his daughters Racamier reins at Vuitton in 1977, the battle for luxury group LVMH the Louis Vuitton Foundation Laurence Fontaine and Caro- in 1987. company counted just two Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton in for Opera, Music and Art, which line Bentz.

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odn etnsi ..My4-7th, May L.A. in New York,May8-9th.Pleasecontact meetings Holding PROFESSIONAL RESUMES,INC. rcwtros opr,Kohl’s Coopers, Pricewaterhouse ls ulcts atrs ulservice Full shop tothetrade.Finefastwork. patterns. duplicates, ples, Sam- productions. small in Specializing Fast cost. Low w quality. High Reliable. with application, Experience major retailers. labels shipping. care pick-pack, and main ers, hang- tickets, processing, RTV Repairs, A A w E-mail China. in zhang for moreinfo: Mfr. approved Jones lutao/readadPhotoshop must. a and required. Faxresumeto:212-564-9507 computer a Illustrator/Freehand on sketching Flat a on work to Ability player. computer systemamust. embros, team Must a prints, newborn-14. be sizes boy/girl for for to etc. designer artwork with team closely 5 develop have Work Must seeks exp. staff. yrs design company join to player import Large typ- great proficient, ing skillsanddetailorientedisamust. excel literate, Comput- er Must industry. this imports. with familiar fabric be for to individual related duties seeks company Fabric have and a organized of be strong computerskills. oriented, Must part company. be detail growing to paced wants fast who motivate energetic, individual highly a seeking representative is manufacturer Leading xeln potnt xsst work to exists opportunity Excellent auatrrseigasuccessful a seeking manufacturer RESUMES THATWORK!SINCE1970 Assistant Designe ARTIST/DESIGNER Pls. faxresume&salaryrequirements FASHION INDUSTRYSPECIALISTS All lines,Anystyles.FineFastService. **Photoshop 7.0&Illustrator10.0** Fax resumestoWendy:212719-3387 Accessory Designer PATTERNS, SAMPLES, GARMENT REWORK/SHIPPING PATTERN/SAMPLES Please faxresumeto:(212)944-1640 CASHMERE! FineGaugesweaters! ork. Custom-madeBridalwr212-629-4808 srla(osbeAinexpansion). Asian and (possible N.Z. in ustralia develop to brand merican t e eln oe’ Apparel Women’s Zealand New a ith Administrative Asst. T: 212-268-7291-4/7newclass 11 Classes/Upto45K/Internavail *Train AsstDesigner&Prod’nAsst* 54 hrsPkg/Embs,Knits,Repeats Designer fornewdivision.5+years Chidrenswear Boy/Girl experience necessary.NYlocation. Free Evaluation-LifetimeUpdates PATTERNS/SAMPLES COTTON, RAYON,NYLON,SILK, FASHION TRAINING Attention: Navin@(212)302-2117 Passport Juniorsseeksaccessory [email protected] or GILBERT CAREERRESUMES Trained Hundredssince2002 www.resumesforfashion.com 60 E42ndStreet,NYC10165 275 MadisonAveNYC10016 Call: (212)832-7420 Fax resumeto:212-564-9507 (800)967-3846 amex/mc/visa Updating/Phone Interviews (212)697-1282/(800)221-4425 Call Sherr Administrator fashioncareercenter.com RESUMES PRODUCTIONS PRODUCTION fashionresumes.com FREELANCE 212-869-2699

(718) 628-1241 y 212-719-0622. y [email protected] , ext.232 r d , large chain.Call973-564-9236Agc product devel.exp.Midtowntrendy Junior orTweenSportswear.Strong Buyer $110-115K.Currentexp.in orncroaesoro nNe in showroom corporate starter run self motivated to highly a seeks rates W collect department major and all for stores req’d.Faxresume:714-364-9787 resolve shipping UPC ASN, & of for Knowledge excellent research, skills chargebacks. computer looking with to and Co. person communication Eveningwear Chargeback NY sketch Illus to presenta- exceptional Adobe player. Ability tion boardsneeded.401(K)andbenefits. comp, on team on 6.0. freehand a to be knowledge 10.0/Photoshop Able and exp. yrs Extensive deadlines 2-3 in w/ work meet to envmnt pro paced seeks fast Co. knits/Swtr Missy exp’ sketches seeks flat developing Co skills Import w/ Girls person & Boys A A well sportswear and bookkeeper. literate computer v seeks be ladies Must mfgr/importer Established Bookkeeper/Fullcharge 90 plus.PleaseFaxorE-mailresumeto: experi- garment ence; book- years 2 A/P Minmum independent keeper; & exp’d. Seeking PLANNERS...... 40-75K attn confidence in Fax Eddie 212-869-3671. oppty! tive store businessamust.Faxresume to: TECH DESIGN...... 60-70K PRODUCTION MGRS...... 50-65K Y togIlsrtr&Poorp skills for Photograph a must.Faxresumeto:212-279-6817 & lines. Illustrator boards activewear Strong & presentation sportswear fashion & graphics MERCHANDISERS...... 35-60K BOOKKEEPER -A/P CAD ARTIST-Boys/Girls 212-790-5990 /ehazan@earl CONTEMPORARY SALES Call 212-986-7329orFax212-986-7708 Many TempandPermOpportunities re nstln hreak.Lucra- chargebacks. settling in ersed r.Eprec nseily&major & specialty in Experience ork. SST DESIGN...... 35-50K SSOC DESIGN-MENSKNITS70-80K *Production Managers WalmartSpecialist *Production Coordinators Sears,Mervyns *Key AccountSalesExecutives *Sales AccountAssistants *Sr. SpecTechnician mnsln fte,setr sepa- & sweaters tees, of line omen’s THIS EXCITINGIMPORTCOMPANYISCONTINUINGTOGROW,ANDWE "ON THEMARKS" CHARGEBACKS Fax resumesto:212-391-8027 CAD DESIGNER optrkoldems;MAS must; knowledge Computer [email protected] THE GOLDENTOUCHGROUP ARE ADDINGTOOURTEAMINTHEFOLLOWINGAREAS: 323-734-0311 BROWSE HERE Please forwardresumesto:Deborahat: y wd.com y -Girls4-6X/7-16Walmart,Target, - KnitwearExperience/SweaterExperience - Sweatersand/orKnitwearBackground w - Jr.Knitwear d , euet tn RDP W 85 TW, - DEPT Send/fax HR Attn: Livingston Ave.,Roseland,NJ07068. required. to resume skills Strong computer needed. other as & functions financial and accounting programs, overseas & of preparation reporting, oversight royalty statement analysis, staff, accounting financial of supervision include n tr or rain mi re- Email creation. or faxto818-543-1604.EOE [email protected] designing, board to: sumes story incl. research, market and and design trend sketching, product for ue rfceti ooMtes& ColorMatters in com- be Photoshop. FaxresumetoZach at: proficient garments; fit sketcher; and puter flat spec to excellent able fol- child- skills: the have of lowing Must premises importer. on wear ren’s work to Needed experience. on sourcing retailers fabric with and Fax resumewithsalaryreq’mtto: work development have to Must programs/product able /merchandiser. be designer experi- seeks enced mfr sportswear Updated Designer/Merchandiser Outfitters). urban, Urban (i.e. - CAD &Graphicabilityessential. edgy Division & Domestic trendy New For great a be communication skills. PleaseFaxresumetoCharlesat: Must strong with must. player team a over- prod’n. of trend, knowledge seas for excellent eye & fast-paced details Strong in work showroom. to N.Y. field related years in 3 exp. w/minimum designer seeks Sweater Co. Junior/Contemporary est’d. Hot, motivated and creative w be Design- w opportunity Must Senior Capparel er. Women’s career Angeles, a excellent for Los an Inc., has Store, Disney Responsibilities beading + to embroidery person Designers. layouts, presentationboards.1-2yrsexp. specs, firm organized include creative, assist Knitwear seeks Missy/Contemporary & w/10-12 sweater import/export Controller experience; w a label in men’s of seeking years private is dollar located NYC, million & merchandiser/distributor 25 licensed Growing, Designer Designer $80K Designer Contemporary Women’ Fax resumeto:212-819-1158Attn:GW DESIGN ASSISTANT rhuigeprqd Responsibilities req’d. exp arehousing t iiu r xeinein responsible experience be Will yrs design. 5 omen’s minimum ith Designer -Jr.Knits [email protected] Senior Designer CONTROLLER or byfax DESIGNER Fax: 973-740-1818.EOE DESIGNER Fax: 212-869-5167 323-589-0342 $80-100K 212-997-9252 212-819-1269 Girls 212-947-7654 A s resume toSalomonat: *Collection, Childrenswear...... $$$$ *Better WomensDresses...... $80K ehius uthv tlat3years craft 3 hand least at in experience andbeverytalented. have Must creative be be techniques. pro- and computer Must grams, applicable essential. with is skilled print design and arts and graphic fine of color Knowledge textile, development. in and of, experience knowledge thorough have Must DESIGN Call (212)643-8090orfax:643-8127(agc freelance f/t+ for chain j in Openings co mass. tops and jr growing fast Trendy Graphic/Fashion/Merch w searching for a mfr childrenswear Leading * a as exact work have integral Must & an fittings. size 4measurements:34"B,24"W,34"H. team all be design for model the to of position part time Full driven proficiency to include:MicrosoftOffice&internet. Computer oriented, personable. detail and analytical, Must be preferred. su- experience Prior manage pervisory time. to one able at projects be ap- multiple Must customer scheduling pointments. fabric and global library collections, fabric global de- textile v in experience years 5 starter. sel motivated for opportunity Exciting Fabric ProcessingMgr experience. FT/PT years a A w/3 seeks Designer Co. Senior Activewear N.Y.C. fax: 212-643-2826.Nocallsplease.EOE. pniiiisicuemngmn o management include sponsibilities DESIGN Apparel Staffin 212-391-7312 /[email protected] GRAPHIC DESIGNER 1)Designers &Assist:Boy-Girl-Jr2)Artists ToddWa Fax resume,salaryhistoryandrefer- r. designersandmerchandisers. CREATIVE TEXTILEDESIGNER Rozae Nichols 3)Production Mgr&Coords4)TechDesigners Email resume:[email protected] Menswear SportswearMfr...... $80K lpetadfbi orig Re- sourcing. fabric and elopment ork onspecialprojectsafreelancebasis. Exp w/Jr.-Access-Stationery&RoomDecor vs aay laeFxo E-mail or Fax Please salary. dvise GREAT JOBSAVAILABLE! Please faxresumeto212-719-2942 GRAPHIC ARTIST einrt onordsg ..bsdta.Minimum team. based L.A. design our motivated self join three yearsexperience. aggressive, to an for Designer opportunity incredible an B Allen Senior Designer E-mail: ences to:Sharon212-512-9447 Garment Industryfirmseeks DuPont Textiles hrce ies rpi Artist Graphic License Character full timesize10FitModel. Fax: Fit Model/DesignAssistant FREELANCE y and Interiors FIT MODEL Fax res:718-788-4998 [email protected] Call212-947-3400 DESIGNER Fax: [email protected] 213-489-1615 GERBER PDS ae fcneprr/einrsotwa,has sportswear, contemporary/designer of maker , Or E-mail: g, 212-921-2600 Ltd.Fax(212)302-1161 Fax resumesto: A BS/ALLEN By AllenSchwartz Men &Women Attn: ONLY is seeking [email protected] Allen Schwartz •Designers (2)Infant,Toddler y to ) f f 213-891-2812 * (JuniorSweaters,topsorSleepwear) *DESIGNER/MERCHANDISER$125K (Boy’swear/Activewear/Urbanwear) *DESIGNERS (3)...... $60-75K (Men’s,Women’s,andChildren’s) *DESIGN ASSOCIATES...... $45-70K *PRODUCTION MGR...... $80-150K *PRODUCTION...... $40-70K (ExpwithWovens,KnitsorSweaters) * (DepartmentStoreBackgroundnec) utb adwrigaddetail and working require- salary ments to212-279-9629Attn: Ton & preferred, hard resume Fax oriented. be exp. must patternmaking ized computer- specs, Gerber catalog production, thru in first exp. w/ patternmaker seeks manufacturer garment Domestic and skills computer industry. good (shoes, play- 2+years’ experienceworkinginthe with team Great organized ers accessories for categories. girls, opportunity handbags) and/or in hosiery, experience ladies with merchandise for assistants openings Immediate 3 fax: 212-643-2826.Nocallsplease.EOE. have newborn, & Primavision girls yrs children’sknitapparelexp. of Must knowl Designer. and have Knit 4-7 toddler boys infant, a seeking creative mfr Childrenswear Leading •Asst Designers.Photoshop/Illust •Spec Tech.IGirls7-14...... $60-70K •Chargeback Expert,RetailChain...... $35-40K •Jr &SrPlannersWalMartA+...... $50-60K Please o req. be VP exp. with EDI Must train & sent allresumeswithsalaryreq.to: and AS400 math detail work Sales. starter. good To ambitious, with skills. organized self an extremely for oriented, Looking *SALES AE’s/MGR’s...... $65-150K * coy utwr eludrpressure. under Only experiencedpersonsneedapply. well work with Must construction. work fctory. and of produc- samplemakers knowledge Oversee to with 1st Inter- tion sketches eveningwear. designer in exp’d pret be Must *PUBLIC RELATIONSMGR.$75-100K ecadsr $80K Merchandiser moderate, UrbanwearandJuniors) GROMWELL GROUP PATTERNMAKER SALES ASSISTANT Knit Designer-Children’ SusieJessil (Strongcontacts.Mustknowcreativesrvs.) JC PENNY/WAL-MART Email resume:[email protected] MERCH/SALES COORDINATORS....$35-50 MKTG &RETAILDEVELMGR...... $70K RETAIL ANALYST/PLANNER (Cut &SewKnitsandsomesourcingexp Temp andFreelancepositionsalsoavailable. 4Opy nMnsbte,Women’s better, Men’s in Opptys (4 Fax ResumeAttnCarla201-894-1186 Please faxresumeto:(212)302-1272 Fax resumeAttn:Anders:212-221-3857. KARLYN FASHIONRECRUITERS Fabric Development Please call212-972-9300ore-mail: Must haveVendorProd’nProcess HARVE BENARD or [email protected]. Prod’n-Mgr/$75K, Coord/$45-55K PATTERNMAKER [email protected] COUTURE EVENINGHOUSE Include Salar CAREER OPPORTUNITIES: MERCHANDISE [email protected] ASSISTANTS (Wovens andCut&SewNec) [email protected] HOT JOBS! y [email protected] Call212-947-3400 y Requirements. EOE/MF/V/D...... $65-75K ...... $50-80K y $35-40K . s K f ) WWD, TUESDAY, APRIL 1, 2003 - 15 / : : to .** y .com .com y y a European mfr @ 212-869-3639. Send resume & salary req Send resume & salary req y Jerr SALES REPS SALES REPS email: [email protected] Sales Assistant Sales ***APPAREL EMPLOYERS *** SALES EXECUTIVE Please fax resume in confidence to Please fax resume Tel: 212-302-3744, Fax: 212-302-8589 Do you need exp’d DESIGNERS, PRODUC **CALL 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agc / specialty & dept. store contacts for all / strong dept./specialty chain contacts SALES CONSULTANT Call, fax or email resume to Lisa Cheung cultivate newaccounts. and Positive maintainfollow-up skills a must. energy existing & strong Salesperson wantedsweater & - knitsin co New missy seeks sweaters indiv growing w/ & exp pant sets, rel w INTIMATE APPAREL Anita International, of lingerie &w swimwear seeks sales agents EMBROIDERY: design, sample,professional, couture, talented beading, schiffli, prod’n machinePATTERNMAKER: exp embroiderypattern to prod’n, sketch. 718-769-6428. 10 design. years, 1st Immediate entry-level positionble availa- to worklarge with account dress executivedetail for oriented, manufacturer. ability toand learn Must quickly, have skills necessary. Excellent computer good be communication skills. Michelle Rothtop at salesperson 57th withretail street min sales requires 2 expher for retail yrs salon. immediate bridal Excellentfits. salary start / in bene- Faxemail: [email protected] resume to: 212-245-1511 or Est’d importersweaters/knits of seeksw experienced moderate pro novelty major customersSelf-motivated. Fax resume: 212.695.4857 & specialty stores. Socks importer /chain stores. mfr seeks exp pro for T-shirts importer/mfr seeks expchain stores. pro for TION, ACCOUNTING, TECHNICAL etc. staff? U.S. territories. Fax resume: 954-730-8723 323-846-5109 or hrd@unihosier 323-846-5109 or hrd@unihosier with major dept. OTB 212-331-0796 experience Box#C 5000 SR. ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE

New York, NY 10001 Fax resume: 212-967-4389 c/o Fairchild Publications 7 West 34th Street, 4th Flr. [email protected] SALES ASSISTANT SWEATERS / CUT & SEW Jeanswear Division. Merchandising Seeks sales exec for Jr/Girls Tops & $$ Salary + Commission $$ Wanted: Luxury Handbag Mfr. skills a plus. Must have est’d contacts. Fax resume to:917-342-9001 Attn: Jerry Factory Direct ImporterRep seeks to work a withhave Sales manufacturers. sales Must andin production Sweaters and experience Please Fax or E-mail all resumes to: Cut and Sew market. High EndAssistant Jeanswear with Coskills, strong ability seeks to communication learn Sales independently. quickly Must and have work some experience withretail math and computer skills. accounts, knowledge of Must have stores (Saks, Neiman’s,benefits. Submit resume & salary to: etc.). Excellent . Y EOE M/F Atlanta, GA 30308 [email protected] [email protected] Sales Position, PO BOX 54600 APPAREL SALES PRO ENTRY LEVEL SALES PLANNER-ANALYST Justin at 201-935-7669 or via email: Justin at 201-935-7669 or Please mail resume and salary history to: Please mail resume and salary SALES MANAGER-JUNIORS (212) 302-2117 KEY ACCOUNT EXEC-JUNIORS [email protected] or e-mail: KEY ACCOUNT EXEC-YOUNG MENS KEY ACCOUNT EXEC-YOUNG . For appt., call: 212-730-0101 212-779-0964 Attn: Suzanne We offer an excellent salary and benefits package. We offer an excellent salary y Please Fax resumes, indicating position of interest, to Please Fax resumes, indicating women’s& junior’s accessory manu- Passport Juniors seeks accessory Exciting opportunities with the leader in urban fashion with the leader in Exciting opportunities salary requirements, attn. Navin at: One of thePro top clothingcompanies to in joindynamic, the its growing U.S. team. co. seeks Mustsellinglargeretailers. Excellent a have Analytical opportunity Sales experience to and in benefits. Competitive salary, bonus and apparel be financial sales, a skills part a of must. a Accessories Sales 5+ years experience necessary. New York location. Please fax resume and sales representative for new division. Fragrance/Cosmetic Knit & Woven Tops Ladies’/Missy/Petite/Large Sizes Accessory Sales Rep Major prestige fragrance co.Exec seeks Sales tosales. manage Fragrance/Cosmetic exp. high-end isE-mail to: dept. req’d store Great Co.showroom. seeking Must Saleschain Pro have &oppt for spec strong N store dept., contacts. Growth Twocoast/west coast Fantasticble office) to join opportunities a reputa- candidates (east will have 3+in years experience thedustry, Fashion possess Jewelry/Accessory strongground analytical In- and back- relationships withaccount base. Please fax resume to: national facturer. Seekingtive an to manage Account key Execu- accounts. qualified . g d K [email protected] Call 212-947-3400 212-730-2099 y New Pvt label Division Sales Manager Fax resume: 212-629-3004 W/ Talbots, Coldwater Creek SAMPLEMAKER SAMPLEMAKER Please email resume plus salary with minimum 5 years experience. Please fax resume to: 212-947-6480 Eveningwear company seeks sewer ritten and oral communication skills ith 3 +ell years of versed experience. in Must be flat sketching,/outside sample room. Fax resume to: specs, requirements to [email protected] oung contemporary manufacturer VISUAL MERCHANDISER SusieJessil oin our team. Must have experience in Technical Designer Moderate Sportswear & Presses. Hang SR. DESIGNER $75 seeks experienced Samplemaker to a must. Fax resume: 703-846-8569 grading, fit sessions &paks, comments, and tech possess the ability to work silks & knits. Y j w Major NYC basedin trade Fashion show andseeks specializin Apparel a Trade Salesmust Shows, Manager. be The energetic, candidate excellent motivated, interpersonal skills, possess in experience dealing withand apparel retailers. manufacturers Thefive ideal years candidate plusSome has travel of required. showand benefits. Base sales plus incentive experience Leather & suede sportswear/outerwear importer seeking a Technicalw Designer w w Multi unit salonern chain Virginia based inenced is north- looking forcandidate visual an will experi- years have merchandiser. ainspiring experience minimum Ideal developing of displays,point unique, 5 of promotions purchase and materials. Strong , n K SALES EOE Fax resume to: 718-218-9763 Company has the following positions: Company has the all issues relating to prod’ (831) 603-5907 Bottoms Designer [email protected] Call 212-947-3400 [email protected] Call 212-947-3400 Great Company y y fax to 212-842-4289 & PO entry. Will monitor & Time/Action Calendar, order [email protected] or SWEATERS Walmart/related exp [email protected] New Pvt label Division COLLECTIONS AND CREDIT MANAGER COLLECTIONS AND CREDIT We are an exciting company with excellent benefits. We are an exciting company Children’s Wear PRODUCTION W/ Talbots, Coldwater Creek [email protected] Import exp. Fluent Chinese. Productions Coord. $40-$60K [email protected] PRODUCTION Apparel - Sourcing Streetwear Men’s and Women’s Sportswear and Accessories and Women’s Sportswear Streetwear Men’s in speciality and department stores. All territories available. in speciality and department stores. COORDINATOR Once in a lifetime Opportunity!!! Major importer seeks dynamic,enced, experi- self-motivatedtheirPlaywear Designer Division. Newborn/Infant for Candidateshave should min 5 Layettecreative ability yrs’ in experience,ette. print, a color & In & strong spec addition, silhou- knowledge aability working of technical topresent productLight and designtravel. Please email resume to: the concepts. domestic & overseas Seeking ambitious, fashion forward sales rep with experience Seeking ambitious, fashion forward ork in ourill Foreign Sourcing be Dept & resp for creating vendor arn Buyer. Couture Mkt ...... $45K Jennifer * Just Mgmt. * 800-544-5878 fax: (212) 643-2826. No calls please. EOE. FASHION NETWORK 201-503-1060/Fax 1070 SusieJessil SusieJessil Email resume: [email protected] or Jeanswear/Washes...... $75-80K Better Suits, Pvt Label...... $75-80K Spec Techs...... $45K Cut & Sew Knits...... $70-80K E-mail resume: [email protected] or [email protected] Call 212-947-3400 Moderate Sportswear & Presses. Hang TECHNICAL DESIGNER Product Manager - Assist SR. DESIGNER $90 patterns, grading &must. Excellent salary & benefits. computer skills a Cut & Sew Knit Prod’n...... $40K manuals, sample follow-up,devlmt, fabric/trim costingmaintain pkg sent overseas, follow-up on team. Working knowl of fit, construction µ µ µ µ TECHNICAL DESIGNER Leading childrenswear mfra is Technical seeking Size Designer 16. Provide specs foranalysis, development, fit Newborn on-linecosting - flatpackages, sketching, specs, and pre- support provide for organize design tech/dvlpmnt & accurate merchandising Prod’n Mgr. Better Market...... $65-75K Prod’n Coord/Assist...... $45K Y Technical Designer $65K Leading childrenswear mfrfor an searching Assistant Productw Manager. Will w Mgr-Sweaters Better Import...... $100K Entry Level-Bilingual Chinese...... $30K Coordinator-Bilingual Chinese...... $50K Production $50’s Major ladies importer isdates seeking with candi- 2-3aspects yrs. of exp.be to overseas assist detail production. inand Must all oriented, able computerenvironment. to literate multi-taskand salary requirements attn. JB at: Please in fast e-fax paced resume fax: 212-643-2826. No calls please. EOE. & quality totime shipments. ensure quality product & on placement . f f w ,

manufacturer 212-221-7064. y Coordinators attn: Argee Fax: 646-435-7412 [email protected] Imports/Domestic PLANNER

212-273-3333 following positions: package if you are FT. Is seeking talented and Is seeking talented Patternmaker Please fax resume DESIGNER or freelance. Full benefits PRODUCTION FUBU FUBU Only resumes received by April 18 will be considered TECHNICAL Fax 212-556-5303 Fax resume to: 212-594-9633 COORDINATOR [email protected] CAD DESIGNER experienced Designers to fill the experienced Designers Positions are available as full time be able toflats based on designer sketches. create & color technical Organized team playerfor is fast needed movingboys young sportswear. men’scomprehensive Must & haveAdobe knowledge a Illustrator (MAC) of & must For youngMust be men’s detail-oriented, organized sportswear. a team player,with strong and communication skills. enthusiastic Must be ablesketches totranslate intocompletetechnical design form. Follow thruof on allproduction. sample aspects Computer developmentmust, with skills and Word and Illustrator. emphasis a on Excel, ith experience. ith overseas suppliers/sample omens apparel. Will interface with ovens and cut and sew knits. omen’s pants, skirts and jackets olume-based Women’s apparel firm Production Assistant ise production personnel dept./follo Please fax resumes to (718) 803-0827 PRODUCTION ASSIST sweaters necessary. Ability to super- PATTERNMAKER w Positionopportunity. located in Salary NY. commensurate Excellent w seeks diverse individual within 5 yrs exp Patternmaking for all types o w w / v up onhighly private organizedEnglish individual label with fluentcomputer business. good in skills communication need Only resume to Cath apply. & Please fax Girls/Juniorsin Importer/manufacturer MidtownCantonese/Mandarin speaking individ- seeksual to follow detailed-oriented up ontion all phases from of produc- ery. development to Duties final include deliv- daily interaction Largeindividual outerwear withfollow-through company 2-4 all yrsMust seeking experience production be to details. detailliterate. oriented Ability and topaced, high-volume import dept req’d. computer work well in a fast- Production $50K Calypso, a retail/whsleindiv. operation seeks with min.tion. 2 Duties yrslab incl.: exp fabric, dips, infollow-up. trim, Knowl. samples produc- of labels, garmenttion tracking. construc- is a Delivery +.cellent Must communicator, be detail computerate oriented, & liter- ex- able topotential! work at fast pace. Growth Leading women’s apparel seeks indiv.understanding with ofposses a retailorganizational comprehensive math. skills. ExcelKnowledge Must strong proficient. Responsibilities of& include: analytical Retailprovide Planning sales detailedperformance, Link vendor communications, & analysiscommunication with overseas offices. a+. tracking, of sales ability to V w have a minimum of five years experience Leading sportswear manufacturer o tracking/qualitysize specs. Knowledge control/supervising in knits/wovens Design, Prod &communicating overseas factories correctionssessions. in Exp in from wovenments, sportswear gar- fit leathers,knits. Only Team player need apply. suedes & sweater Candidate must be detail oriented and seeks anMust be experienced ablethrough to patternmaker. generate first productiongrading, patterns and patterns, fit sample specs, evaluation for Cotton Incorporated, 2002. © fresh Registered Service Mark/Trademark of Cotton Incorporated. Registered Service Mark/Trademark ® AMERICA’S COTTON PRODUCERS AND IMPORTERS. PRODUCERS AMERICA’S COTTON

Graffiti denim jackets by Louis Paladino. Fabric by cotton. Cotton. The fabric of our lives.® www.cottoninc.com