KORS TO LEAVE CELINE IN ’04/2 HDP SELLS FILA/11 Women’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • March 10, 2003 Vol. 185, No. 49 $2.00

WWDAccessories/Innerwear/LegwearMONDAY CreatingCreating A Flap

PARIS — Helmut Lang hahass returned to the fashion forefront in a big way, and he demonstrated that with a sensational fall collection. The looks were a blend of practicality and chic, often featuring straps, ties or harnesses, along with plenty of flaps, which turned up in coats, for example, that were seamed horizontally and Velcroed. Here, one of his flap-happy outfits: a jacket, sweater and lace-up pants. For more on the season, see pages 4 to 10.

A Sea Change in Luxe: Tough Market Favors Buyers Over Sellers By Sharon Edelson NEW YORK — When Pegasus Apparel Group acquired Miguel Adrover’s business in March 2000, it gave the designer a Jaguar to use for tooling around town. The car was a status symbol worthy of the successful designer Pegasus hoped Adrover would become. But it was returned when the ambitions of Pegasus — now called Leiber Group — disintegrated. These days, Adrover is bicycling his way through the city. I N

O The trajectory of the market for N N A I G

acquiring designer businesses has I N N A

V See Opportunity, Page20 O I G

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O T O H P 2 2003

10, Kors to Depart Celine WWDMONDAY Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear

By Samantha Conti next big American designer with him.”

MARCH company. It’s a phenomenal op- In January, Chou and Stroll PARIS COLLECTIONS , LONDON — Silas Chou and Law- portunity for us, and we are purchased approximately 85 Alexander McQeen, Helmut Lang, Viktor & Rolf and Emanuel Ungaro were rence Stroll may not have drawn very, very excited.” percent of the Michael Kors 4 among the top collections as the Paris shows moved into high gear. NDAY up the master plan for the As reported, Kors extended business through their compa- O

M Michael Kors business, but his contract with Celine until ny, Sportswear Holdings Lim-

,

D there’s no doubt the two partners March 2004. Stroll’s statement, ited. Financial sources said GENERAL

W have clear ideas about its future however, is the first official they paid just under $100 mil- When sales of luxury products were riding high, it seemed just about any W direction: Stroll has confirmed confirmation that Kors will give lion, an amount roughly equiva- 1 designer was ripe for acquisition. But now it’s a buyers’ market. that Kors will quit as Celine’s cre- up his role within LVMH after lent to the global volume of all Silas Chou and Lawrence Stroll detail their plans for Michael Kors, including ative director next year. that date. Kors products. the fact that Kors will quit as Celine’s creative director next year. “We want him to focus on the “Michael had not intended to Stroll, looking every inch the 2 Michael Kors business,” said extend his contract, but LVMH tycoon in a neat gray suit and EYE: Do blondes have more fun? Two exhibitions in London might have Stroll in an exclusive interview asked him to,” a spokeswoman for puffing a fat cigar, would not be 18 some answers…A perfume party in Venice Beach, Calif. in his office at the A&G Group the designer added on Saturday. drawn on the specific details of headquarters here. “Michael “Knowing what is ahead for the Kors business. Asked if the Obituary ...... 23 will not continue with Celine his business in New York and Kors business could reach the Classified Advertisements ...... 22-23 past fall 2004. We’ve already the success he sees forthcoming, size of Tommy Hilfiger’s $1.88 To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is agreed on that with LVMH [Moët Michael is looking forward to fo- billion empire, Stroll said no — [email protected], using the individual's name. Hennessy Louis Vuitton, which cusing all his energy on his own and yes. SUBSCRIPTION RATES owns Celine].” collection and will not extend “That’s a difficult question to U.S. and possessions, Retailer, daily one year, $99; Manufacturer, daily one year, $135. Stroll added: “There is no his contract past 2004,” she said. answer. Times are different, de- All others U.S., daily one year $195. Canada/Mexico, daily one year, $295. All other foreign (Air Speed), daily one year $595. Please allow 6-8 weeks for service to start. Individual subscription information: (800) 289-0273; doubt in my mind that Michael “If that could happen sooner partment store environments outside U.S. (856) 786-2140; group subscription information (856) 786-0963. Kors can and will become the than later, that would be fine Continued on page 11 Postmaster: Send address changes to WWD, P.O. Box 10531, Riverton, N.J. 08076-0531. WWD (ISSN #0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue every month except July, and two additional issues in April and August, by Fairchild Publications, Inc. a subsidiary of Advance Publications Inc., 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001-8191. WWD is a registered trademark of Fairchild Publications Inc.© 2003 by Fairchild Publications Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications Inc. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying or recording, or by any information storage or retrieval system, except as may be Apparel, Textile expressly permitted in writing by the copyright owner. Editorial Reprints: (212) 221-9595 Talk of Jaeger Sale Leaves Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and other offices. Mailed under Publications Mail Sales Agreement No. 517054. Canada Post Returns to: P.O.Box 1632, Windsor, ON N9A 7C9 GST # 88654-9096-RM 0001 Canada Publications Agreement # 40032712 Printed in the U.S.A. Brand’s Destiny in Question Jobs Continue All signed articles published in the paper represent solely the individual opinion of the writer and not those of WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY. By Samantha Conti to Jaeger say Thompson is ready For Web site access, log on to www.WWD.com to sell the brand to the textile Decline in Feb. LONDON — For a brand in the entrepreneur Harold Tillman, doldrums, Jaeger is certainly owner of Baird Menswear By Kristi Ellis MONDAY: Paris Collections continue (through getting a lot of attention. In late Brands, and the Viyella busi- Thursday). January, Coats PLC quietly sold ness to the knitwear firm Harris WASHINGTON — The apparel its Jaeger and Viyella business- Watson Holdings. and textile industries mirrored TUESDAY: International Fashion Fabric Exhibition, es to Richard Thompson of Thompson did not return the overall employment declines New York (through Thursday). Riverhawk Investments — and calls on Friday. Tillman could and continued to shed seasonally Ann Taylor Stores reports fourth-quarter results. now it looks as if Thompson is not be reached for comment. A adjusted jobs last month, as did WEEK already preparing to flip them. spokesman for Harris Watson apparel and accessories stores. WEDNESDAY: Talbots, Coldwater Creek and Stein Thompson acquired 117 re- Holdings declined to comment. But department stores posted a Mart fourth quarters. tail outlets, 230 concessions in As reported in September, big job gain, according to the Commerce Department releases January import the U.K. and Europe, and 50 Coats had been looking to sell its Labor Department’s monthly em- figures. franchises worldwide for a nom- fashion retail division, which in- ployment report released Friday. THIS inal fee of 1 pound — or $1.60. cluded the Jaeger and Viyella U.S. companies slashed THURSDAY: Revlon, Urban Outfitters fourth quarters. Under the terms of the deal be- businesses, to focus on its core 308,000 jobs from their payrolls February retail sales report from Commerce

tween Coats and Thompson, thread businesses, which make in February, pushing the overall NG Department. however, Coats has retained the threads for apparel, footwear unemployment rate to 5.8 per- I long-term lease of Jaeger’s flag- and industrial use. In the first six cent at a time when the country FRIDAY: Labor Department reports on Producer Price ship on Regent Street, and months, Coats’ fashion division is on the brink of war with Iraq. M Index for February.

Jaeger’s U.S. business. posted a loss of $12.5 million on “While today’s news was un- O SUNDAY: Now, industry sources close Continued on page 19 expected and certainly disap- C Melbourne Fashion Festival, Australia pointing, a number of factors are (through March 23). thought to be responsible for the unexpected decline in payroll employment,” Labor Secretary Elaine Chao said in a statement on Friday. “We know that the In Brief You are invited economy has not been growing to the 6th annual fast enough and that too many ● ROSS KLEIN EXITING JONES: Ross Klein said he plans to step New York, New York people have not found work.” down as senior vice president of corporate marketing at Jones ® Department stores added Apparel Group Inc., where he oversaw marketing for the Polo Whole Bead Show 27,000 jobs in February to em- Jeans Co. His last day with the company will be Friday. He said Now, two ballrooms over flowing with ploy 2.53 billion workers, while he plans to join W Hotels Worldwide as vice president and chief all beads and jewels to fulfill your dreams. general merchandise stores fol- marketing officer. The company has not yet named a successor, lowed suit and posted gains of though Klein said he is working on a “strategic exit plan.” 28,000 jobs to employ 2.86 billion. New York’s Hotel Pennsylvania • Penn Top & Sky Top ballrooms However, department stores ● A MAY MAYBE: Moody’s Investors Service put May Department 18th Floor • 401 7th Avenue between 32nd and 33rd and merchandise stores were Across from Madison Square Garden Stores Co.’s credit ratings on review for possible downgrade. May still well below year-ago levels. Co.’s issuer rating currently rests at “A2.” Prompting the review Compared with February 2002, March 21st – 23rd, 2003 • Friday & Saturday 10 AM to 6 PM • Sunday 12 noon to 5 PM was pressure from May Co.’s falling comparable-store sales. Last department stores last month week, the retailer posted an 8.9 percent comp drop for February, Wholesale • Retail • Open to the public • Admission is $5.00 for all buyers/attendees had 24,000 fewer jobs, while gen- a particularly grueling month for all of retailing. The review will Wholesale buyers must bring a copy of their resale license eral merchandise stores had focus on the firm’s initiatives to boost sales, especially through For a list of merchants or to sign up for a workshop go to www.wholebead.com 33,000 fewer jobs. private brands and an improved shopping experience. Also going Apparel and accessories under the microscope will be May’s capital spending programs, stores slashed 15,000 jobs from storing strategies and financial policies, as well as efforts to con- payrolls last month to employ 1.16 trol expenses and manage inventory. billion workers. Compared with February 2002, apparel and ac- ● DESIGNER SPAM: Style.com is getting behind the Council of cessories stores lost 14,000 jobs. Fashion Designers of America’s June 2 CFDA Fashion Awards “We are going through a con- with a new e-mail service to generate buzz about the affair. sumer recession,” said Frank Beginning today, Web users can sign up for updates on the event, Badillo, senior economist at which is being underwritten by Swarovski. Style.com will send Retail Forward. “The economic out e-mail alerts every other week, beginning with the an- downturn is hitting home now nouncement of nominations on April 1, through the awards and it is aggravated by the threat night. The messages will include links to a site for the CFDA of war. The falloff in demand in Fashion Awards that is being hosted by Style.com. It will include turn causes businesses to hold information on nominees and honorees, Q&As with those de- off on hiring and production be- signers and the event co-chairs — Calvin Klein, Carolina cause they expect less demand Herrera and Vera Wang. from consumers and you really Continued on page 23 3 ATTAC Evolves as UNITE Departs WWD, MONDAY

tration among ATTAC’s 35 mem- Textile Manufacturers Institute.

By Joanna Ramey , MARCH 10, 2003 bers that trade’s downside ef- There is some membership over- WASHINGTON — The apparel fects didn’t materialize as a key lap among all these concerns. and textile union UNITE is out issue in the 2002 congressional There are other U.S. manufac- and U.S. furniture manufactur- races, Nash said. The broader turing lobbying efforts in Wash- ers are in under membership coalition, which will boost its ington, including the National changes at a nascent domestic lobbyists from one to three, Manufacturers’ Association, textile lobbying group spear- hope things will be different in which has a free-trade agenda headed by textile magnate Roger the 2004 elections. aligned with the Bush administra- Milliken and determined to ATTAC’s makeover as AMTAC tion and which AMTAC is fighting. change American trade policy. also comes at a time when the do- Rep. Howard Coble (R., N.C.), Organizers of the year-old mestic textile lobby is otherwise co-chairman of the House Textile American Textile Trade Action gaining steam. The National Tex- Caucus, who attended the coali- Coalition — now renamed the tile Association, created last year tion’s reorganizing and annual American Manufacturing Trade by a merger of the Northern meeting last week, said the mem- Action Coalition — said the group Textile and Knitted Textile asso- bership changes were needed. needed to broaden its political ciations, is becoming more “There is strength in num- base by including producers from prominent with its Washington bers,” said Coble, adding that other sectors also being battered lobbying. In addition, there is the AMTAC “will fill a void for the by import competition. Thus far, long-standing, but downsized, domestic manufacturer that has ATTAC former leaders George Shuster, Bruce Raynor, head of UNITE which is the new entity has one chemical textile lobby: the American existed for too long.” leaving the coalition, and Roger Milliken at the launch of the lobby group. and four furniture companies as nontextile members. “It is absolutely vital that the coalition represent a much greater segment of the U.S. in- dustrial base,” Milliken said in a statement Friday. “It is critical policy makers understand that U.S. trade policy is severely damaging all segments of U.S. manufacturing. Our country must confront the need for a re- vised trade policy.” THE NEW Coalition members contend that U.S. manufacturers have INTERNATIONAL been put at a disadvantage by trade pacts like NAFTA and SHOW what they claim is an unwilling- ness by government officials to FOR JURIED aggressively protest foreign trade barriers to American COLLECTIONS products. The group largely April 4-6, 2003 blames unfair import competi- tion for the loss in two years of 2 million U.S. manufacturing jobs, including more than 200,000 in the textile and apparel sectors. As for UNITE, president Bruce Raynor, one of three founding coalition co-chairs with Milliken, said the union would have re- mained in ATTAC had it contin- ued as a textile-only organization. Raynor also tied UNITE’s depar- ture from the coalition to the union joining the newly created AFL-CIO Industrial Union Coun- cil, which has the same U.S.-man- ufacturing preservation agenda as the coalition. The union council is “going to work along parallel tracks” with AMTAC’s broader member- ship, Raynor said, describing UNITE’s separation from the coalition as amicable. Milliken and UNITE for years have worked on the same side of trade issues in Washington. But when Milliken and Raynor joined forces last year the mar- riage seemed like an odd couple, THE given Milliken’s long-standing anti-union sentiments. Rounding WORLD’S out the coalition’s intrigue was the third co-chair, George Shu- NEXT GREAT ster, ceo of Cranston Print Works, whose workers have long been FASHION represented by UNITE. Milliken’s Washington lobby- CAPITAL SM ist, Jock Nash, said with a textile- only membership, the coalition’s message had difficulty gaining traction beyond Capitol Hill law- makers with textile mills in their districts. In addition, with UNITE as a member, attracting more support from southern companies with a nonunion stance also proved difficult. Raynor said: “It’s safe to say that many people in the textile industry are closer to the Re- Explore the savage side of chic, upscale fashion at the world’s publican leadership and we are next great fashion capital. Visit AmericasMart.com® or closer to the Democratic leader- call 800.ATL.MART or 404.220.3000 today. ship.” There was also overall frus- 4 Paris Collections 2003 10,

MARCH Sophisticated Glamour, Performance ,

Alexander McQueen: Masterful. Alexander McQueen is a couturier at heart, an intriguing Alexander McQueen storyteller and superior craftsman. In the collection he showed on Saturday night, the MONDAY three faces of Lee were on magnificent display. After spring’s spectacular shipwreck motif, for fall, McQueen’s inner novelist took his audience on a trek through the snowy emptiness of the tundra at a time of impending peril. WWD, As for whether peril pends for him or any of the designers within Gucci Group, McQueen remains calm. Before his show, he said that, after reading reports of Domenico de Dole’s and Tom Ford’s possible exit from the group, “I rang Domenico and he said he wasn’t leaving. The reason I’m here is Tom and Domenico.” Still, he praised PPR as “a good company,” adding, “You just have to wait and see. But the type of person I am, if I’m not happy, I leave. I’ve done it before.” But if McQueen has felt at all distracted, one could not discern it from his runway. Because if, baby, it’s cold outside, at least his heroines will face the elements and an uncertain future gloriously turned out. For all his former bad-boy image, the increasingly svelte McQueen took his bow after his show in pristine, even jaunty whites, and holding the hand of Sarah Heard, his chief assistant. McQueen champions glamour all the way. Big, bold, sophisticated glamour. And if it can veer toward the costumey, well, he thinks that when you invite an audience, you put on a show. Back in his studio, he and his staff call those elaborate pieces “the showpieces” — as if no sane person would assume otherwise of a burlap frock that took five weeks to embroider or a skirt that was intricately hand-painted. But the remarkable thing is that such pieces, even the most elaborate chinoiserie fantasy, do not overtake the real clothes, even when a raw-edged leather coat from pre-fall finds its way to the tundra. As usual, McQueen crossed divergent themes, here united by a vaguely Forties glamour. Storybook snow divas braved the winds in opulent reverse-side shearlings and sparkled furs; future-shock babes stalked sleekly; Asia-culture afficionados trotted their au courant obsession in treasures from all-out kimonos to a little fur-fluffed parka — remember Alexander Rosemary Clooney at the end of “White Christmas”? Imagine her in a chinoiserie phase. McQueen Within this context, he showed gorgeous clothes — beautiful suits; flippy minis; Aran knit legwarmers zipped up the back. But McQueen really focused on dresses with a lineup of structured, full-skirted gems — each one uniquely embellished — often with skirt panels flapping over pleated petticoats. Then he turned soft for a moment, closing the show with the most gorgeous of goddess dresses, in white silk sprinkled with silvery beads on, you guessed it, Natalia. And the future looked anything but bleak.

Helmut Lang: So you thought Helmut Lang was unflappable? Wrong! The collection he showed on Friday flapped all over the place, and it was sensational. These days, Lang can do no wrong. After a quiet time during which he seemed to retreat from fashion’s forefront, he’s back big-time, following up last season’s beautiful collection with another star turn, a distinctive parade that infused practicality with chic as only he can. But then, different drummer is Lang’s middle name. Exhibit A: his program notes, on which his name appears in big, bold letters. But so do those of a host of others somehow involved in staging the show — Melanie Ward, Frederic Sanchez, Louise Bourgeois, Dick Page, Didier Malige. Unlike so many designers, Lang sees no problem with flaunting his team in this most collaborative of industries. Of course, he sets the tone — cerebral sans arrogance. These clothes are Alexander well-thought-out and well-controlled, but beyond detailed. So much so that McQueen they could have turned tricky in a flash; in fact, let’s face it, Lang did let out a trick or two. But as Siegfried said to Roy, nice trick! Those flaps, for example: Lang seamed his coats horizontally and then undid the seams in front, so that de- Velcroed, the loose panels went fabulously flap-happy. Similarly, he strapped, tied, harnessed and slung his way through the collection, lacing pants up the sides, fastening layered hose with garters, pulling multiple tanks this way or that, and sometimes finishing a look with knitted gauntlets. And while he worked almost exclusively in black, navy and gray, for evening he lightened up with little dresses in airy compilations of pale, ethereal silks. More often, however, pragmatism reigned. Lang is perhaps fashion’s most devoted champion of performance luxury, and as such, he obsesses over fabrics; in the program notes, he gave cashmere fleece a bigger credit than he gave himself. That deference to comfort skewed the mood to the cozy side of aggression. And in a mini-reprise of his men’s show, he sent out a shirt emblazoned with thoughts straight from the old Baltimore Catechism: “Faith Hope Charity.” Not to mention total chic. Talk about a religious conversion.

Viktor & Rolf: “Will work for clothes” — apparently, it’s not just for models anymore. Tilda Swinton has been something of a muse for Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren for a while, but the spectacular Viktor & Rolf collection the boys showed on Saturday was a veritable Tilda-fest. Not only did the lofty actress inspire the designers, she also wrote and recited an equally lofty lyric for the soundtrack—“separate the signal from the noise” — and opened and closed the show. Signal here: Bye-bye fashion bacchanalia; welcome tailored control. And it looked great. In past collections, the designers have focused on tailoring, and proven themselves consummate pros. Here, they flaunted that skill relentlessly, while making some kind of commentary on conformity — perhaps that it’s not all bad? — by turning each and every model, from Stella Tennant to Natalia Vodianova — into a Tilda aspirant, face pale and red hair pulled back tightly. But it worked, the girls’ exaggerated sameness putting a stronger focus on the clothes. It started with the black-suited, white-shirted Tilda, and moved on through a smart update of many of the boys’ favorite themes — chic suits, shirtdresses, jeans, shirts and jackets with huge haute collars, the never-waning fascination with volume and proportion. Sometimes they puffed up a single item — a little parka blew up into a balloon in back — and at other times, they layered. This started discreetly enough, but worked up to a pile-it-on-a-thon of eight shirts and a jacket, and of nine nesting jackets that recalled their one-girl-only couture show several years ago. For the finale, Tilda returned, followed by the entire cast of models in a vignette that looked something like a Robert Palmer flashback. But with Alexander McQueen clothes this good, what’s wrong with a renaissance?

ANNI GIANNONI AND STEPHANE FEUGERE FEUGERE STEPHANE AND GIANNONI ANNI GIOV Y 5 WWD, MONDAY, MARCH 10, 2003 B PHOTOS Roman er the Slim “I don’t know e Moss ’s show Friday ’s Kat at Alexander McQueen. Alexand confessed as he filed Sharon Stone and Michael Kors at Celine. show Friday night. “I’m a releases his next album, releases his next Helmut Lang , Polanski, whose received an . afternoon. “But I like his men’s wear.” nomination for Academy Award “The Pianist,” wore Lang when he received a Caesar award for the film last month. “I like the way he cuts. I’m not so easy to fit,” the diminutive filmmaker said, pausing for a moment, and ROMAN HOLIDAY: ROMAN HOLIDAY: too much about women’s fashions,” film director Polanski into If fashion were music, what would If fashion were Kate Moss , which she described as avant-garde Karl Lagerfeld is not coming out Sharon Stone Malcolm McLaren an Polanski Veronique Branquinho Veronique While the chauffeur negotiated a speedy “They’re clothes that aren’t the one-time wear,” she posed for some more After the show, “When you’ve got a handbag named after a So what does Dior sound like? at times, and “It sounds elegant, foreboding shoved and “For two weeks I was pushed and fabulous watching “It’s He declined to discuss Rom at Helmut Lang. CHRISTIAN ROCK: world will find out in September it sound like? The when then clarifying, “You know, my shoulders are wide.” know, then clarifying, “You ROLLING STONE: Organizers of Friday’s Celine show insisted the show did not start late because of the tardy arrival of But even if it had, Stone had a decent excuse. En route, her car was pulled over by French police for a random check. release, Stone signed autographs and posed for she pictures. When she finally arrived front-row, waxed on about the virtues of collections by Michael Kors but wearable. she said. “They’re not just a glamour shot, and you’re done.” glamour shots and was done. There was no sign of dubbed “Boogie Stone at the Celine after-party, Nights” to celebrate its signature handbag. But Kors wasn’t complaining for lack of fun. you’ve got to throw one,”party, said. “And after he all this fashion, I deserve to blow off a little steam.” “Diorama,” musically detailing the history of the detailing the history of “Diorama,” musically way of a wonderful “It’s Dior. house of Christian of McLaren said on the sidelines making a record,” the surrounded using all that French music that to the present day [Christian Dior], all the way up with Johnny boy [John Galliano].” McLaren childish, too,” McLaren said. Meanwhile, article writing an He’s is also dabbling in journalism. about the fashionable for Condé Nast Traveler and it sounds thalassotherapy spa in Quiberon, more taxing than music. he said. “I felt baked and beaten and hosed off,” great.” THE SKINNY: Alexander McQueen with any diet book, but he’s sure giving who made a brief appearance at the club after sitting front row at relished show, McQueen’s participating in fashion as a spectator after so many years on the runway. the whole thing,” she said. run for his money in the slim department. Dressed all in baggy whites when he took his bow at his show on McQueen looked Saturday, like a sliver of the moon. his vanishing act, but a spokeswoman attributed his ongoing transformation to exercise, healthy living and wit: McQueen eating. To didn’t show up for his post- show cocktail party at Yet Maxim’s. Fashion Scoops or & Rolf ktor & Rolf iktor & Rolf V Vikt Vi Viktor & Rolf & Rolf or & Rolf Vikt Viktor Viktor Helmut Lang Lang Helmut

Helmut Lang

e Luxe and Tailored Layers andTailored Luxe e c 6 Paris Collections 2003 10, MARCH , Baby Dolls, Snow Bunnies and

Jean Paul Gaultier: On their peachy plastic heads, scores MONDAY of doll babies held up Jean Paul Gaultier’s runway on Jean Paul Celine Saturday like an army of miniature pot-bellied caryatids. Gaultier

WWD, But Gaultier’s kiddie fixation didn’t end there. The runway has always been the designer’s metaphorical playground, but this time it was literally so — and he played like it was recess. He paired an adorable red babydoll sweater with ruffled bloomers and took it running, skipping and jumping from there, showing rompers in taffeta, cherry red velvet and even sleek brown fur, and getting cute with Peter Pan collars, pretty puffed sleeves and rickrack trimming along the way. Of course, Gaultier showed plenty of babydoll dresses — like, duh — including some that gave way to a Gothic moment or two, as most teens do. But even his handsomely tailored suits, most layered over hoodies or under huge anoraks, joined the youth movement. Still, it wasn’t all kid’s stuff. The collection was rich in ideas and just plain rich, full of delicately done clothes that looked luxe from a mile off. And it was a real romp, that’s for sure. While the logic of the show itself — which opened with Natalia as a fresh-faced cutie and closed with Natalia as the wizened vamp — puzzled some, there was plenty there to love, both babyish and all grown up.

Celine: You’ve got to love a snow bunny, especially if under her fur bonnet tied up with pompoms, she’s utterly chic. And that’s just how she looked in the Celine collection that Michael Kors showed on Saturday, which was one of his best. Kors delivered a deft web of references, performing a gentle decade hop while commuting between the urban hub and Jean Paul snow resort of his imagination — each idealized Gaultier into a pristine fashion backdrop. “There’s nasty, and there’s sweet,” Michael Kors said before his show. “It’s a hodgepodge of the things I love.” But all delivered with a singular goal: “Everything is meant to put a smile on your face. What other reason is there to buy anything now?” The snow queen will love Kors’ playful furs — the hooded white mink, the delightful pink powder-puff chubby. But when she gives in to her alter-ego pseudo-bad girl, she can go for the audacity of giraffe and zebra patterns, all aglow with sequins, and racy leathers. And when a girl can’t decide, it’s so helpful that some looks go both ways: a beaded pink, fur- collared cardigan over racy Rizzo pants in black stretch satin. For more discreet moments, there were clean-cut Sixties lady coats, and an almost-practical mackintosh- and-mink coat. And when discretion just won’t do: a shining silver croc jacket. Kors plays to a woman who believes that coordination is the better part of fashion, a woman proud to match her bag to her shoe. For fall, she can do that and go one better, with bag-and-coat combos in, for example, checkerboard Saga mink. Evening was short and sweet, in little icicle-beaded shimmy numbers and a cashmere dress embroidered in wispy feathers and sequined flowers — perfect for when the bunny comes in from the snow.

Emanuel Ungaro: Three fallen disco balls twinkled center-stage at Gianbaptista Valli’s Emanuel Ungaro show, but gravity didn’t get the best of his airy look. A woven fur jacket and a feather-weight anorak did their part to keep the mood light as helium, but chiffon — lots and lots of chiffon — gave the collection its lift. Of course, that gossamer fabric is to Ungaro what chocolate is to Hersheys, but, this time around, Valli didn’t indulge in any overwrought ruffle work. He did Très Raffiné well by the house with wispy chiffon minidresses in watery prints that pulled across the hips with Olivier Theyskens, formerly known as the crown prince of glamorous Goth, is no one- smocking, and delicate blouses that slipped just so to trick pony, as his first full Rochas collection proves. The 26-year-old Belgian, who is as reveal a filmy tank beneath. handsome and as charming as Nicolas Ghesquière, is also fully fluent in the stuff of re- But if Valli worked the chiffon thing until he could finement. And the Rochas woman he brought to the runway was a well-mannered so- simply work it no more, then he absolutely binged on leg- phisticate dressed in appealingly proper lace-trimmed suits, who doesn’t care for a mini gings, showing them paired with all of the above, anything, except maybe Minim’s. whether rippling and ruched, glittering with butterflies “There is a place in Paris for a modern product that is reserved,” says Theyskens, or in a haute hobo version, mended with shimmering taking a break in the busy showroom on Saturday. “We’re missing something that isn’t squares of silver. vulgar.” Evidently, retailers agree. The pre-collection shown during the couture was What he didn’t show was much of anything else. There picked up by, among others, Barneys New York, Saks Fifth Avenue and Jeffreys. Now were chiffon gowns in faint florals and pulled high to fall’s polite but mysterious look has editors raving. Theyskens’ bewitching best included show off — you guessed it — more leggings. But this sea- Jean Paul looks as narrow as an overturned champagne glass with a cropped jacket in two tiers son the flashy Eighties look is getting less and less play. Gaultier topping a slim double-tiered skirt. “I love a woman who makes an entrance,” he says, Valli’s challenge in the months ahead will be to come up “someone who makes an impression without shocking.” with a fresh angle that delivers not only pretty clothes, The house’s archive itself is so slim that Theyskens saw it all in under an hour. No but options.

ANNI GIANNONI AND STEPHANE FEUGERE STEPHANE AND GIANNONI ANNI GIOV Y

7 WWD, MONDAY, MARCH 10, 2003 B PHOTOS its Mary Burton , , has Norman Rick Owens Tyra Banks Tyra . , has landed behind Lil’ Kim who organized the lunch, Henri Barjuirdjian Diego Della Valle Diego Della Valle quipped as she and her Tilda Swinton at Viktor & Rolf. , among others, would tell the Michael Caine Derek Khan and other Nordstrom executives Nordstrom Marcus? “We Joan Kaner Stylist Expect more crashers at the couture and Tilda Didier Grumbach “This is going to start rumors about a Aretha Franklin transformed all Eugene merger,” merger,” Neiman Marcus associates broke bread with Pete Nordstrom “We have known this guy for a long time, and it’s have “We at the Carrousel du Louvre after the Jean Paul film also starring joked on Sunday, to the police’s involvement. to the police’s LUNCH BUNCH: and said he felt obliged, but told Nordstrom he started getting some of the jewelry back now, due started getting some of the jewelry back now, Gaultier show Saturday. It was Chambre Syndicale Gaultier show Saturday. president of Graff, who said he and other firms have Pat McGrath really unfortunate,” said and notified the authorities. president police last week, after group of jewelers got together a New York. Khan, who is 45, turned himself in to the Khan, who is New York. bringing together two staunch competitors. On the Khan, who has worked with As dessert arrived, the music started thumping also has it that Tod’s Word “They designed the “They’re doing a very “I’d better go because I’m in the front row and you’re probably true, because no one wants to sit “That’s million, according to court papers filed with the City of million, according to court papers value of the jewelry he fingered was in excess of $1.5 value of the jewelry he fingered he would house the jewelry before pawning it off. The he would house the jewelry before claiming to at least one firm it was stuck in Barbados. claiming to at least one firm it where Tower in Trump One source said Khan had a safe menu? Stuffed bell peppers, followed by some good- each company about where the jewelry was, even each company about where the JAILHOUSE BLUES: and expensive jewelry and watches bars for borrowing for cash. off to local pawnbrokers selling the merchandise dresser that the well-known celebrity Sources told WWD from took jewelry and watches in the last few months Piaget, Vivid, Winston, companies including Graff, Harry other high-end jewelers, and never Goldberg and William and charged Wednesday returned it. He was arrested last and is currently imprisoned in New with grand larceny, a police spokeswoman said. He is scheduled to York, appear in court on Tuesday. J. Blige jewelry firms he needed merchandise for photo shoots for jewelry firms he needed merchandise Fair and to dress various celebs, magazines like Vanity to different people in and then gave conflicting stories Jewison natured ribbing. which prompted downstairs at the Cacharel show, everyone to reach for their invitations and debate if they should rush down. Neiman Marcus chief executive new creative director and said Owens would show his debut ready-to-wear collection during the July couture new headquarters in the Marais. shows at Revillon’s chosen the week to finally unveil its first collection of bought name. Tod’s shoes under the famous Roger Vivier name in 2000. the vast archives and rights to the Vivier creating the who died in 1998, is credited with Vivier, first stiletto heel and thigh-high boot. ME, MYSELF AND I: might have to call it actress V&R&T,” Swinton & reflecting on the Viktor Rolf show the day before. collection for me so I sort of had to be there,” she said on the sidelines of the Chloé show. & Rolf Backstage at Viktor Swinton said a day earlier, she was “existentially confused” as makeup artist hairstylist Souleiman the models into Swinton doppelgangers. good job of making people look like people who look like me, but I’m not sure I look like me,” she said. But it’ll be the real Swinton who next month begins work in Paris on “The Statement,” a Tansky shouldn’t. he offered. probably in four,” Nordstrom shot behind me,” the basketball-player-tall back with a laugh. SUMMER SCHOOL: Revillon officially named On Friday, party. Fashion Scoops l Ungaro Emanue Ungaro Ungaro Emanuel Emanuel . He turned up for his first day with his sketches complete. With the designer’s signature line on hold, Theyskens has plenty of the designer’s With who started at the house in November and, after Still, the designer, Theyskens, who has taken on some of the Rochas politesse, makes matter “Rochas has a known name, but not a known image,” he says. “I was talking about other projects when I took this job, but I know that at an- other house, I would have been more cold, more economic. Here I’m working with my heart.” time to focus on planning a rosy future for the house, owned by the And nothing is out of the question, German cosmetics giant Wella. even a couture collection. The Paris store will be revamped, a new per- fume is in the works and Theyskens hopes to debut an accessories col- lection in July. says he doesn’t want to four years, closed his own house last year, learned from the successes and fail- grow the business too fast. He’s ures of other young designers charged with bringing an old house to life. “I’ve seen great talents work so incredibly hard,” he says. “I have I want to take care, because fashion absorbs all that energy so quickly. my work here not to turn to garbage after a few seasons.” he con- are ready,” taking things slowly seem like good manners. “We cludes, “to be patient.” Celine

Olivier ▲ Theyskens Celine Rochas

Rochas

d Chiffon Charmers Chiffon d n 8 Paris Collections 2003 10, Dandy Ladies, Rock ’n’ Rollers and Wander MARCH , Comme des Garçons: Not everyone believes a troubled world can seek solace in joie de mode. Certainly not Rei Kawakubo. In her fall collection for Commes des Garçons, Kawakubo envi- sioned a lonely warrior, a girl who moves about ever-ready to evacuate, all of her earthly posses- MONDAY sions in tow. She carries them wrapped up in a bulbous fabric parcel slung on her hip or back. Of course, woebegone is no excuse for looking undone, and this is a quite pulled-to-

WWD, gether, if mournful, miss. So much so that she bothers to match her hobo pouches to her outfit, whether plaid or olive drab. Accent on the drab. We all know that life is not just a bowl of cherries, but you expect fashion to provide just a small maraschino on top. Kawakubo, however, is clearly in no mood for laughs, and as a result her girls assumed the trappings of a relentless sobriety. Still, that sobriety was beautifully rendered. Kawakubo loves a plaid, and here used it in weighty, mannish suits. Conversely, black suits took on a certain chic under the luster of multiple gold chains, and a more overt political bent when printed with deep thoughts. But even when cut for sensible ease, tailoring is not necessarily the best choice for the girl on the go to nowhere in particular. For comfort, she can slip into a long black tunic, slit this way or that to re- veal a white cotton underskirt, all bunched up into that hip parcel. Or she can go for a take on army fatigues loosened up and slung on a drawstring. Kawakubo retreated from casual mode to close the show with a caped crusader, her cloak spliced in back with a giant cross, as if in non-specific warning. But then, the designer has long been one of fashion’s most daring and intelligent crusaders, and if her message was a tad depressing, she’s still worth listening to.

Lagerfeld Gallery: Karl Lagerfeld loves — and wears — what Hedi Slimane does for Dior Homme, so it’s no surprise that he reinterpreted a signature Slimane look — a white shirt and super- skinny black tie — for Lagerfeld Gallery, showing those gentlemanly basics under cut-away knits, jackets and dresses. But while Lagerfeld tinkered with men’s wear, his fall look is strict, yet feminine. For the modern-day lady boss, there were sharply tailored jackets and kicky pleated miniskirts, a white fur with shaved-in stripes and a coat with darted seams that ran straight as an arrow. When she’s off the clock, the Gallery girl has plenty of options. Out came sparkling silver knits, including a chunky turtleneck and off-the- shoulder version, and tailcoats worn with slim satin pants that picked up on the men’s wear motif. Though the collection was full of grown-up everyday clothes, distinctive techno touches kept it all from seeming basic. It was all fine, and some of it was even dandy. What the collection lacked, however, was the razor- sharp message it usually delivers.

Chloé: During a preview of her fall collection, Phoebe Philo let rip with the references, promising sexiness à la Helmut Newton, rocker chic thanks to Robert Plant, Anita Pallenberg’s attitude and the boudoir provocation of Comme ddeses Carlo Mollino’s photographs of hookers in the Sixties. Tall order. But what Garçons could have been a risky proposition actually paid off. Philo’s fall Chloé collection delivered all of the above, which is to say it was eclectic and then some. Just like the quintessential Chloé girl, a complex character who needs a wardrobe to match, Philo found no need to rein herself in when adventure — and playful fashion — beckoned. The Chloé cocktail calls for sharp tailoring, a splash of body-baring raciness and two parts romance, but Philo spiked each look to keep it a little different from the last. Sleek iridescent feathers came into play throughout, as did a Sixties/Seventies steaminess Philo alluded to with her iconic list. The bulk of the collection, which ranged far and wide, included a jade leather motorcycle jacket Comme des Garçons with lace patched jeans, a peachy pink strapless dress made of stacked ruffles, a black lace top with a two-tiered mini-culotte skirt and a gold-coin Barbarella dress. And, for the most part, it worked. Sometimes it’s better not to ask why.

Costume National: If Ennio Capasa got a penny for every trend that he hit on in a season, his piggy bank would surely be full by now. Romantic, silver, short, ethnic — been there, done that. So it came as no surprise that, for fall, Capasa banked on the aggressive sexiness that swept through Milan. Strict, severe and authoritative — with a nod to this season’s unsung inspiration, Azzedine Alaïa — was the prevailing attitude, as girl after girl sauntered out in every conceivable idea of tough chic: Black cutaway jackets with high-collars and corsetted belting; zipped-front motorcycle jackets Comme des Garçons layered over unforgiving leggings and body-hugging turtlenecks; leather swing peplum coats pulled in tightly at the waist; funnel-neck mini-coats in Sixties damask patterns, and, for the truly dangerous, a stretch-leather catsuit, complete with leather gloves and thigh-high boots. And yes, everything was black, black and black with — oh, yeah — the odd shot of Barbie pink.

Hussein Chalayan: Like eating sushi, playing board games or you-know-what, you have to be in the mood for a Hussein Chalayan show. That’s because, no matter how much his clothes have to say on their own, no matter how stimulating the ideas behind his very, very conceptual work, there’s always another intellectual hurdle to leap come showtime. Sometimes the effort pays off — remember the charming furniture that converted into a fashion collection? At other times, no matter how great the clothes, his shows are flat-out annoying — remember the girl dressed in an ethnic costume standing stock-still on the runway for what seemed like hours? All the pent-up notions he presents at once makes you think he should get out more. In any case, this season it was too much information, all right. A walnut-encased trampoline, a walnut confessional cabinet and a walnut boat-coffin kind of thing took up most of the stage, while overhead, a digital clock ran numbers and a ticker delivered a message about sins and planting seeds and confessing. Or something. If you were in the mood, you’d get a kick out of the first model out who posed, two big helium balloons connected to her black minidress, for what seemed like hours before she bounced. Others performed less-intelligible acts. And it all served to distract from clothes that would have stood well on their own: Sweaters and jackets drastically reduced by gaping holes with their edges traced in silver zippers, a black top with silver zippers arced across the front like tracer fire, and the garter-garnished miniskirts and sleek leggings Chalayan worked throughout. For the finale, he managed to merge his avant-garde showmanship with adorable merch as models, dressed in spliced army twill and plaid minidresses, giggled as they reached for their rip- cords and pouf — the flaps of their dresses instantly inflated like pool floaties. What does it all Chloé Chloé Chloé mean? Who knows — and who cares? It doesn’t need to be deep. It was — sorry, Hussein — fun.

ACHARD DELPHINE ND A FEUGERE STEPHANE IANNONI, G ANNI GIOV Y B 9 WWD, MONDAY, MARCH 10, 2003 PHOTOS Saddam Maire-Laure de Villepin at Emanuel Ungaro. , seem tailored for Japanese tastes. , and her famous mother, have also , and her famous mother, Noel , the 14-year-old daughter of modeling , the 14-year-old Dominique de really wants the French to go after , the Morgan Stanley luxury analyst who is the Overheard, one editor to another, after a muscle- Overheard, one editor to another, , is slated to walk in the Chanel show this As her husband, After testing her legs on the runway at Fendi in Marie Laure de Takashi Murakami Takashi shionScoops George Bush sat down at Emanuel Ungaro for , all he has to do is get him a membership in PETA….That’s Pat Cleveland , prepared for a vital Security , prepared for a Anna Van Ravenstein Anna Van “This is how my heart feels right now,” she said. “My husband she said. now,” “This is how my heart feels right Holding up a pendant on her leveland, her husband, Paul Van Ravenstein, and their children, Van leveland, her husband, Paul “I was torn between accompanying The lawsuit against Morgan Stanley alleges biased research and conflict “We would go so far as to say that there is no visibility over the “We Anna’s towering brother Anna’s wants to save peace.” But what does she think about the widening wants to save peace.” But what husband. her thoughts remained with her through it, Villepin said, however, that said, however, through it, Villepin necklace of a heart with a nail driven necklace of a heart with a nail diplomatic rift between America and her country? “I lived in diplomatic rift between America positions of certain people in Washington.” all night working on his speech.” all night working on his speech.” Washington for years,” she said. “My two children were born in the Washington U.S. We’re definitely not anti-American. But I regret the political definitely not anti-American. U.S. We’re Fa commented de Villepin. “He was up commented de Villepin. my husband to New or staying,” York a dose of fashion diversion. Villepin Anna and Noel, at the Chanel showroom. Pat C Pat “It is difficult to say how appealing the Murakami lines will be for non- Asian customers,” she wrote. spokesman declined to comment on the report. of interest. An LVMH DIPLOMACY: FASHION protester at mini-skirted fur bound security guard clobbered a tiny, Celine: “If been cast in the show. The trio are represented by the Marilyn The trio are represented by the been cast in the show. celebrity division. agency’s Claire Kent KENT VENT: Hussein when they really go to war.” ALL IN THE FAMILY: Milan, still has her target of a $100 million lawsuit launched by LVMH, solid full- about LVMH’s doubts about the French luxury group. Writing Kent acknowledged Louis year profits in a report released Friday, “looks set for a strong 2003,” but she cast doubts on the Vuitton of the prospects of a turnaround for Donna Karan, Fendi, or any other fashion and leather goods brands. company’s also likely performance of the other fashion brands,” she wrote. Kent new spring accessories, designed with the input of noted that Vuitton’s Japanese artist Council meeting on Iraq at the United Council meeting Nations on Friday, FOREIGN INTRIGUE: minister French foreign Villepin morning. And it will be a true family affair. morning. And it will be a true family affair. legend Hussein Chalayan Lagerfeld Gallery Hussein Chalayan Costume National Lagerfeld Gallery Lagerfeld Gallery

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Costume National Lagerfeld Gallery

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ering Warrior Women Warrior ering d 10 Paris Collections 2003 10,

MARCH For PETA’s Sake , PARIS — With designers making fur a major state- ment at the fall collections, the anti-fur agents from People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals MONDAY have responded in a renewed wave of fashion sab- otage, this time aimed at the Paris shows.

WWD, Following a comparatively calm season of protests in New York and Milan, PETA members have stepped up their efforts here, circumvent- ing tight entrance security with virulent banner waving antics at shows from Lagerfeld Gallery to Christian Dior. They’ve been suffering the consequences, too. At the Celine show on Friday, a burly securi- ty guard tackled a protester roughly, slamming her into a gasping front row before carrying her off. The next day, at Jean Paul Gaultier, guards adopted a more humorous approach, drawing yelps of laughter by bundling the protesters in fur before spiriting them away. “They may have something to say, but we have a statement to make, too,” explained Gaultier president Donald Potard, who came up with the idea to drape the protesters in fur. “I think there are more important causes to be A protester goes down at Dior. protesting right now.” Some in the audience felt that by draping fur protesters in the very object of their contempt, Gaultier had merely stooped to PETA’s con- frontational tactics. But many editors and buy- ers were amused and found the response a fit- ting one. All, however, expressed repugnance over the tackling at Celine. “There are all sorts of ways to deal with these protests, from humor to intelligence,” said Ingrid Sischy, the editor in chief of Interview. Loewe Martin Grant “But that guard at Celine was too violent. Protest is part of democracy. I’m not saying it’s a place to be pushing this cause; it’s an illegal action, but there’s no excuse for the guards to get so rough.” Sports Style and Subtle Elegance “I don’t like seeing violence of any kind,” Cloaking the problem at Gaultier. added Babeth Djian, editor in chief at Numero. Loewe: With a light touch, Enrique Ona “And it was too much at Celine.” Selfa worked up his second Loewe collec- Celine president Jean-Marc Loubier underscored that the protesters always “run risks.” He tion, combining the ease of jogging gear said that there was no intention to rough up the protester. with simplified luxury. Now, that’s a In any case, the intended message may have been lost on its audience. Many editors and buy- smooth move. He worked almost exclu- ers concurred that anti-fur protests are starting to lose their edge, and some said spotting the sively in leather, suede and fur, ranging PETA protester in the crowd has become something of a spectator sport. from basic brown to cocoa to tan. Here, “It’s become a non-issue, really,” commented Anna Wintour, editor in chief of Vogue and a fre- taking a straightforward approach to up- quent target of PETA. “They’ve been disrupting the catwalks for years; no one pays attention to to-the-minute dressing meant pairing a them now.” dark brown fur hooded sweatshirt with “The PETA people are making the same statement they make every season,” added Kal slim suede pants, splicing strips of perfo- Ruttenstein, senior vice president of fashion direction for Bloomingdale’s. “It’s annoying to those rated suede to create a smart jacket and of us who are here to follow fashion.” finishing the edges of a leather coat to “At this point, they’re just being disruptive and no one pays any attention to them,” agreed mimic knit banding. Elizabeth Saltzman Walker, fashion director at Vanity Fair, who suggested that PETA stick to more And Ona Selfa’s rich track jackets and constructive efforts, such as the fashion shows it sponsors in New York to present alternatives to sporty fare are on the right course. By fur. “We didn’t jump up wearing fur coats at their show,” continued Saltzman Walker. “So maybe sticking to the simpler side of trendy, the they should learn to respect other people.” designer avoided much of what tripped Andrew Butler, campaign coordinator for PETA, said the organization had particularly targeted up his predecessors at the house. Dresses the City of Light this season because “a lot of designers who predominantly use fur are in Paris.” that fell across the hips like bunchy After staging similar protests in New York in 2000, PETA tempered its activities in the U.S. in breeches were a rare mistake. Ona Selfa wake of the 9/11 attacks. fared better when working a simple look, However, PETA tipped the Chambre Syndicale that protests in Paris would be strident this sea- and that, of course, is never as simple as son, according to Didier Grumbach, president of Paris’s governing body of fashion. it looks. “We were warned and we warned all of the houses that this type of incident could occur,” said Grumbach. “But they’re very crafty and difficult to stop.” Martin Grant: With the return to elegance The protesters have managed to penetrate heavy security in Paris to create more disruption sweeping through fashion, Australian than they have in several seasons. How they’re getting through the security maze is still a ques- Martin Grant pushed the right envelope Loewe tion, but in the past, PETA has acknowledged that its activists are often smuggled tickets by sym- with a sophisticated collection for fall. pathetic attendees, or simply request tickets for standing room from designers, who commonly Over the last seven years, since he opened grant hundreds of such passes to ensure they will show to a full house. his Paris house, Grant has developed a At some of the targeted shows this past week, the protesters have rushed down from standing cult following with girls who love his sub- room sections and leapt onto the runway to unfurl their banners. tly elegant clothes, updated with a mod- Grumbach pointed out that no punishment is meted out to the protesters. But this season, he ern twist. Working a ballet theme, Grant said, they have been detained by security guards until after the show so their names could be noted. offered mini dancer’s skirts in tulle and “Arresting them or throwing them in jail would be useless,” said Grumbach. “They want pub- IANNONI pleated skirts, paired with black turtle- G licity and victimizing them would give them more publicity. They are a small group. If we can get

neck sweaters or a beige mohair jumper ANNI their names and identities and pass them around to the houses I’m sure we can stop this type of thing in the future.” with tulle peeking out at the wrist. GIOV

Meanwhile, a Victorian influence in- ND In response to the incidents, other designers have stepped up their preparations for shows this fused the designer’s long and sweeping A week with intense security. Chanel’s Karl Lagerfeld, a frequent target of such protests who is ex- high-waisted coats, while short leather pected to show today, characterizes the PETA activists as “a kind of urban terrorist.” jackets and coats were stitched with a FEUGERE He suggested they would better invest their energies to find a way to make animals vegetarian motif that Grant said he took from “because nothing kills more animals than other animals.” Japanese samurai armor. He likes to mix “Pushing political correctness makes people want the opposite,” he said. “I think it’s day and evening wear, which he did with STEPHANE grotesque.” black cocktail dresses adorned with a A Chanel spokeswoman said the house has hired additional security and plans to be “very vigi- HOMEL, trompe l’oeil knot and his gold satin or C lant” at the entrance. brown suede trenches. In all, the designer, After a protest at Dior last week, John Galliano’s ode to the Forties at the show for his signature collection on Sunday night was also heavily covered with security, and this time was incident free. who is trying to grow his business this year THIERRY Y by opening a larger shop and expanding B But no one could mistake Galliano’s position on the issue: He took his bow with a silver fox his retail clients abroad, delivered a clas- pelt draped over his shoulders. Martin Grant

sic and chic vision for urban women. PHOTOS 11 WWD,

HdP Sells Fila Operations Michael Kors to Exit Celine MONDAY MILAN — Fila has a new owner ests to concentrate on its more — finally. lucrative publishing assets, Continued from page 2 “eventually” be looking at other Holding di Partecipazioni which include the daily newspa- are different, and I don’t want to product sectors. He said they ,

Industriali SpA, which has been per Corriere Della Sera. Last make individual comparisons are already thinking of produc- MARCH trying to sell the struggling sport year, HdP sold Valentino to with other companies. The busi- ing a line of handbags in-house, brand since June 2001, has sold Marzotto, and in December, HdP ness may not grow to be as big but that there were no immedi- the operating businesses of the chief executive Maurizio Romiti as Tommy Hilfiger in terms of ate plans to launch a jeans line. company Fila to Sport Brands said he wants to sell the men’s volume, but in terms of market “That’s not in the cards right 10,

International LLC, an affiliate of wear label Joseph Abboud, now penetration and awareness, yes, now. There are already denim 2003 U.S. investment fund Cerberus, the company’s last remaining it will be as big.” components in the collection for $351 million in cash, plus the fashion asset. Stroll said that while the and bridge lines,” he said. assumption of any financial debt “The board of directors of master plan hasn’t been laid The current economic cli- incurred by the Fila group since Fila Holding has approved the down, his and Chou’s priority mate, coupled with the threat of Jan. 1 of this year and all of terms of the sale, taking into for the business is to expand the a war in Iraq and political ten- Fila’s trade debt. consideration besides the terms collection and bridge business- sions with North Korea, have not Sport Brands will buy four and structure of the Cerberus es globally. been a deterrent for Stroll and Fila subsidiaries: Fila Nederland offer, various other factors in- He said that, for the moment, Chou. “Timing is everything. BV, Fila Sport SpA, Ciesse cluding the Fila group’s eco- he and Chou will preserve the The Asprey, Garrard and Piumini SRL and Fila USA Inc. nomic results in recent years status quo, which means that Michael Kors brands are all in in a deal slated to close June 30. and the difficulties and uncer- collection will continue to be their infantile stages of life. For This confirms reports that tainties in achieving stable posi- manufactured in-house, and the us, the next 10 to 15 years are Cerberus was closing in on a deal tive net results in the near fu- Kors Michael Kors bridge collec- going to be about growth, which that appeared in WWD. ture,” Fila said in a statement. tion will be produced under li- means the economy will have HdP, which currently owns 91 Despite sponsoring athletes cense by Onward Kashiyama. less effect on us than on a more percent of Fila Holding, said it like tennis star Jennifer “The bridge business has only mature brand. In the case of will within six months launch an Capriati, Ferrari driver Michael been around for a few years, and Michael Kors, we’re starting Michael Kors offer for all 8.6 million outstand- Schumacher and skier Alberto to us it represents a huge, un- from a very small base.” ing shares of the holding compa- Tomba, Fila hasn’t managed to tapped potential,” Stroll said. Stroll denied a rumor making ny at $1.12 a Fila ordinary share capitalize on its high-profile He added there were no the rounds in New York that Kors business. or American Depository Share. brand and pull itself into the plans to turn Michael Kors into Michael Kors’ business was ex- Bronfman was spotted in the “The offer, when launched, will black. It has posted net losses a retail business. “This will con- pecting to report losses of $4 front row of the Kors show in be conducted by HdP with the aim for the last five fiscal years. tinue to be a wholesale-driven million this year. “That’s just not New York last month. “Edgar to take Fila private and to turn it As of Dec. 31, Fila’s consoli- business. Yes, we plan to open true,” he said. and his wife Clarissa are very later to new activities and invest- dated financial debt stood at flagships in key cities, but most He also cut short speculation dear, very old friends of mine. ments within the group strategic $324.53 million. (Debt figure has of the distribution will be that Edgar Bronfman, the co- His wife also happens to be a sectors,” HdP said in a release. been converted from the euro at through department stores.” chairman and a 40 percent very big Michael Kors customer. As reported, HdP is selling current exchange.) In terms of product launches, shareholder in A&G Group, may But Edgar has no role at off its fashion and textile inter- — Amanda Kaiser Stroll said he and Chou would have become involved with the Michael Kors.”

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www.merchandisemart.com 12 Innerwear Report 2003 10, Warnaco Redefines Its Brands MARCH , By Karyn Monget Warnaco. The old Warnaco is company remains intact under gone.” the stewardship of chief restruc- NEW YORK — A new era of in- Wyatt said he is heading the turing officer Tony Alvarez, 20 novation, creativity and market- launch of several key initiatives months after declaring bank- MONDAY ing savvy is unfolding at The that he and his new team of ex- ruptcy. The company also closed Warnaco Group. ecutives believe will put the on a $275 million exit financing

WWD, Warnaco has aggressive plans Warner’s, Olga, Lejaby and Body facility, of which the initial draw to reposition its core intimate by Nancy Ganz shapewear was $39 million. apparel brands in 2003 for max- brands back on track with inno- For the 11 months ended imum results in solidifying re- vative new product that’s been Nov. 30, Warnaco recorded a net tail partnerships and regaining updated and edited for fashion, loss of $927.5 million on rev- IANNACONE its credibility in the financial comfort and quality. As part of enues of $1.12 billion. The loss community. the new image, the Body included $787.8 million from the A nnewew look THOMAS That’s the word from Tom Slimmers by Nancy Ganz name cumulative effect of a change in Y B Wyatt, president of the Warnaco was renamed Body by Nancy accounting. by Body by Intimate Apparel Group, who said Ganz to revitalize the brand’s The company did report an Nancy Ganz.

Tom Wyatt PHOTOS last week in an interview at the persona and broaden a con- operating profit before reorgani- Warnaco offices at 90 Park Avenue sumer base to include a younger, zation costs of $18.8 million in zation and reorganization ex- the brands, which is expected to that he has no intention of selling more contemporary customer. the 11-month period, but $88.1 penses, the company recorded be at stores in August, will be a 12- off the company’s bread-and-but- This ambitious goal got the million in reorganization items profits of $79.3 million. to 18-month “work in progress” ter intimates businesses. green light following Warnaco’s contributed to an operating loss Wyatt has named three new and will include new point-of-sale Wyatt reiterated what he told emergence from Chapter 11 pro- of $69.3 million. Excluding inter- executives to oversee the cre- materials and hangtags. Budgets WWD in October: “This is a new ceedings Feb. 4, in which the est, taxes, depreciation, amorti- ative, design and merchandising have not been finalized, but Wyatt areas, as well as sales and mar- said an initial estimate of $3 mil- keting. He noted that he has lion to $4 million would be “signif- “great confidence” in the com- icantly increased.” This does not pany’s new direction. include an additional price tag of “Our team has been wonder- more than $100 million for exten- ful helping us change the struc- sive consumer market research. ture of the designer [founda- The Warner’s logo is clean and tions] group to be more focused minimalistic, and aimed at the on the end-use of consumer practical, busy woman with taglines product and delineate the prod- like “Essentials with Spirited ucts and brands from each Flair,” and “Warner’s Pleases Her other,” said Wyatt. “It starts with Needs With an Element of Surprise product. If we don’t deliver on and Inspiration.” consumer expectation, then the The Olga logo is scripted in a brand has failed.” sophisticated manner aimed at John Wagstaff has been a woman who is fashion-con- named vice president of sales of scious and prefers luxury goods. David H. Clark; John Wagstaff and Michael Schornstein, and Joyce Baran. Warnaco’s Intimate Apparel Taglines include “Everyday Division. For four years, he was Exquisite,” and “Olga Brings a president and ceo of two Reebok Special Touch To Her Daily divisions: Greg Norman Sports- Routine Through Femininity wear and Reebok Golf Division. and Elegance.” From 1990 to 1997, Wagstaff was Body by Nancy Ganz is pur- president of the U.S. wholesale posely quirky in contrasting division of Coach. black and white letters. It was Michael Schornstein, who was designed to attract a younger, named senior vice president and hipper consumer with taglines chief marketing officer for the in- including “Empower Your Style” timates operation, was vice presi- and “Body Is Not About Body dent of marketing for Haggar Solution; It’s About Fashion, Clothing Co., overseeing brands Enhancement and Confidence.” such as the licensed Claiborne Combined sales of the 61-year- Pants and DKNY Pants business- old Olga brand and the 128-year- es and the Haggar label since old Warner’s name is $250 mil- 1990. Earlier, Schornstein was lion, split evenly, said Wyatt. In vice president of marketing and October, Wyatt predicted the Olga advertising for Lee Jeans at VF panties business was expected to Corp. for two years. grow to $50 million from $10 mil- Also part of the new format is lion by 2004. The newly renamed Joyce Baran, tapped as vice Body by Nancy Ganz is currently president of creative design for generating yearly sales at retail Warnaco’s core intimates of $40 million. Wyatt said he be- brands. Baran, a 20-year veteran lieves the shapers business could of the intimate apparel industry “easily double” in two years. at companies including the li- Plans are also in the works to censed Liz Claiborne Intimates rehaul the upscale Lejaby at Jockey International, French label in foundations, Smoothie by Strouse, Adler and said David Clark. Warner’s, joined the company in “It’s a $100 million business September. [in Europe],” Clark said. “We Bridging the gap of the new plan to introduce a secondary Warnaco with the old Warnaco label by the end of 2003.” is David H. Clark, president of Last fall, Wyatt noted that annu- Warnaco’s Intimate Apparel di- al sales for the Lejaby bra brand in vision. Clark has held numerous the U.S. are projected to reach $30 executive posts at Warnaco for million to $50 million over the next more than 20 years and is con- couple of years. Distribution will sidered an integral part of the be aimed at major specialty stores retail partnership initiative. as well as a select number of de- In terms of marketing and partment stores. advertising, Warnaco’s new Meanwhile, the long-awaited image is being molded by announcement of who will suc- Ziccardi Partners Frierson Mee, ceed Alvarez as ceo remains. a large advertising agency with Wyatt said the decision was An intimate part of every special occasion.... offices in New York and Paris “imminent,” but would not elabo- that handles accounts such as rate. As reported, Wyatt, along with 183 Madison Avenue, New York City, New York 10016 Ellen Tracy and YM Magazine. two other key divisional heads, are The ad firm has created a new on the short list to fill the top slot: 800-746-0014 marketing package of videos John Kourakos, who oversees the outlining the updated message Sportswear and Calvin Klein and look of the Warner’s, Olga Underwear units, and Roger and Body by Nancy Ganz labels. Williams, who is in charge of sister Wyatt said the repositioning of company Authentic Fitness.

14 Innerwear 2003 10,

The Bali Balie Fushion Shapers. INTIMATE NOTES Lace Desire MARCH

, Plunge bra. NAOMI DOES BALI: The Bali Co., a unit of Sara Lee Intimate Apparel, will be launching a multimillion dollar ad campaign this summer for Bali foundations, featuring supermodel Naomi Campbell. The dramatic black-and-white photography by Richard Avedon MONDAY will appear in a number of magazines, including Vogue, W, Elle and Glamour. Shahid Agency handles advertising for the Bali brand.

WWD, Jennifer Armstrong, vice president of marketing for Bali, said, “This is an incredible collaboration among one of the most glamorous women in the world and one of the most innovative and respected fashion photographers. Naomi represents everything that Bali is about — fresh, sophisticated, glamorous — and no one has that unique vision to capture that like Richard Avedon.” The new Bali ads will expand on the imagery launched by Avedon for the brand in fall 2001, which featured a message of modern elegance. The images of Campbell will introduce three new products highlighting beauty, comfort and fit. Armstrong said each image will convey the personality of the product, from playful and sassy to sophisticated. For the new shapewear line called Bali Fusion, Avedon combines three shots of a Fusion-dressed Campbell in motion. A soigné image shows off the Bali Lace Desire plunge bra, and the Bali Live It Up bra portrays Campbell flirting with the camera.

HOCHMAN TAPS MORRIS: Seth Morris has been named president of Carole Hochman Designs Inc. Carole Hochman, who held the title of president, will continue as the sleepwear firm’s director of design and its chairman. Morris joins the company’s executive committee, which consists of Neal Hochman, chief executive officer; Peter Gabbe, executive vice president and chief operating officer, and Hochman. as a member of the office of the president of I. Appel Corp., and inspiration for the item. Morris, formerly executive vice president of sales for new was president of his family’s sleepwear and daywear firm, Val “It was designed for both fun and comfort, but fundamentally, business ventures, will absorb his responsibilities into his new Mode, until it was sold to I. Appel in 1996. it’s about togetherness,” said Cole-Ford, noting that more than post and focus on the growing private label sector of the firm, as 300 have been sold since its introduction in late February. well as the licensed Esprit and Jockey divisions, and PERFECT TOGETHER: It’s not exactly the latest style invention, but The Cupplerobe is sold on Cupplerobe.com for $79.95. Solid nontraditional product lines. a new item of Polar fleece called The Cupplerobe has been colors are blue, burgundy, olive and black. There also are two Hochman said, “During the six years [Morris] has been with designed for two people to share. Its got two hoods and two front prints: leopard and zebra. One size fits all. the company, he has proven to be a salesman extraordinaire, a openings that allow each person full use of their arms and hands. “We tried to make it spacious enough, but we recommend that mentor to our younger executives, a great partner to our retailers, Los Angeles-based media executive-turned-robe designer, somebody fairly corpulent might fare better with a mate who has a creative problem solver and an extremely popular executive.” Alan Cole-Ford, said a consumer interest in “crisis cocooning” a normal-sized weight. People like to wear it with not a whole lot Before joining the Hochman company in 1997, Morris served during an uncertain economy and a wartime climate was his underneath. That’s the fun of it,” he said.

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Warnaco’sWarnaco’s 2003 Dave Clark Federated’s Paula Warnaco’s Tom and John MacDougall. Wyatt. Wagstaff.

Femmy honorees Steven McCracken of DuPont Textiles & Interiors, Phyllis Gorell of Kohl’s, David Welsch of Cupid Foundations, Norma Reinhardt of the Underfashion Club and Sheila Solomon of Priamo Designs. Dupont’Dupont’ss Bob MaidMaidenform’senform’s VF’s Kathy Dzielak Manette Tom Ward of Reynolds and and Kim Scheininger. Maidenform. Eric Wiseman. Anne Deal of Fashion Forms Scheftler. and DKNY Underwear’s Barbara Lipton.

Togetherness personified by The Cupplerobe.

TEFRON IN RED: Tefron Ltd., the Bnei-Brak, Israel-based maker of seamless intimate apparel, said its net losses in the fourth quarter H. WaWarshow’srshow’s Janet widened to $3.5 million, or 28 cents a share, from $1.4 million, Charles Komar’s Charlie Komar, Peters and Wacoal’s DuPontDuPont’s’s Iris LeBron, Macra Lace’s Walter Kellwood’s or 11 cents, a year ago. However, excluding the effects of one- Moira Shields and Greg Holland. Richard Murray. Costello and Warnaco’s Joyce Baran. Jim Mogan. time expenses to shift its Alba-Waldensian U.S. manufacturing operations to Israel, Tefron’s bottom line jumped into the black in THE FEMMYS: Over 800 executives of the intimate apparel, textile and retail fields turned out for the 2003 Femmy Awards gala the period with earnings of $2.3 million, or 18 cents a share. cocktail and dinner at the Waldorf-Astoria Hotel last week. The event was hosted by the Underfashion Club. Sales for the quarter ended Dec. 31 inched up 2.4 percent to Three executives received the Venus de Milo-inspired Femmy statuette for their contributions to the fashion apparel industries $50.4 million. and their community service: Phyllis Gorell, intimate apparel buyer at Kohl’s Department Stores; Steven McCracken, president of EICHNER For the year, losses widened to $17.5 million, or $1.41 a DuPont Textiles & Interiors, and David Welsch, president of Cupid Foundations Inc. STEVE Y

share, from $10 million, or 81 cents, during the preceding year. Receiving the Femmy Lifetime Achievement Award were Norma Reinhardt, a vice president emeritus of the Underfashion Club B Without special items for Alba-Waldensian, income reached $8.9 and former executive vice president of marketing at Westchester Lace, and Sheila Solomon, a vice president emeritus of the

million, or 72 cents a share. Sales advanced 0.7 percent to Underfashion Club and national sales and merchandising manager of Priamo Designs Inc. HOTOS P $190.3 million. FEMMY 16 Wolford’s Levante Legwear Report fall styles has started include this distributing

2003 new take Jonathon on fishnets. Aston, a 10, line from England. MARCH , Taking Strides MONDAY

WWD, To Stay Ahead By Melanie Kletter women’s brands at Royce Hosiery Mills. The particularly cold-weather winter NEW YORK — The tough economic times this year boosted sock and tights sales, and continuing difficulties in legwear and some even said that the biting cold are leading many makers to take bold and rainy weather during market week steps to get and retain business. kept many buyers in the mood to stock up A look from Levante, for example, just started a new on the category. March market is the Etienne ERRICO largest one for legwear vendors showing Aigner’s new ’ program guaranteeing 70 percent margins D for retailers who commit to big programs, fall and holiday offerings. legwear line. while Hanes is offering more products that There were a number of new licensed DAN ND fall into the innerwear realm, such as lines that made their debut during the A seamless thongs and boy-cut panty under- week. Etienne Aigner launched its leg- wear that pulls in the tummy. wear with a party at the New York show- ANNACCONE Other companies are stepping up their room of Paul Levitt Mills, which is pro- I three-for-$12 or three-for-$15 programs to ducing the line, while Emme legwear

boost value for their end customers. was introduced by Phantom USA. TOMMY , John Flynn, vice president of sales at Emme hosiery is targeted to plus-sized

Levante U.S., said, “We are guaranteeing customers and includes a line aimed at AQUINO Hanes just the margins because we want the busi- department stores, as well as a line called Hanes just

introducedintroduced JOHN

ness and we are willing to be aggressive.” True Beauty by Emme that is exclusive to Y Nonetheless, fall is the biggest market J.C. Penney. Retail prices are $12 to $16 Stepz, a B in legwear, accounting for about 70 percent for the core line, and $8 to $15 for the sock line. of the sector’s $3 billion in annual sales, Penney’s line, and company executives PHOTOS and many believe the future is brighter. A declined to give sales projections. of slipper styles and cozy looks. A number packaging and new point-of-sale materials number of firms said they expect to at least Royce introduced a new licensed line of of new styles have unfinished edges, giving to help them with that,” Cannon added. break even with last fall and many said socks under the Hershey’s name, with socks them a handmade appearance. Among the The company is pushing a new arena they are planning for increases. Legwear featuring smiling candy kisses and styles fabrics gaining ground are tactile materi- that it calls “athleisure,” which includes also has been shown on the runways both with Jolly Ranchers. Retail prices for the als such as angora, chenille and cashmere, more fashion-forward versions of its ath- in New York and Europe, giving makers nonedible line are about $6, and McNellis as well as acrylic blends, many of which letic socks using lighter-weight materials another reason to cheer. projects first-year sales of about $1 million. are coming from the sweater category. than traditional sport styles. “Times are tough now and consumers Comfort fabrics dominate many of the Novelty items and conversational styles Among sheer companies, Hanes is fo- are nervous, but everyone expects fall to new offerings and firms across the legwear continue to dominate much of the sock cusing heavily on its Body Enhancer line be better,” said Pat McNellis, president of spectrum are stepping up their selection scene, especially looks with bold-colored introduced last fall and it has introduced stripes. Soxland, for ex- a number of new products that are de- ample, showed a range signed to shape and minimize. of socks with Halloween “Body Enhancers are the most success- motifs to gain more busi- ful launch we have ever had,” said ness around that holiday, Howard Upchurch, president of Sara Lee while Legale introduced Hosiery, which includes Hanes and L’eggs. a number of styles with “These products resonate well with con- animal motifs, including sumers in terms of how they are dressing an animal head that now. We are looking for ways we can con- squeaks when pressed. temporize across all of our products.” Knee-highs and tube Among the additions to the Body socks booked well, a Enhancer line are a seamless thong panty, trend that many say will a seamless boy-cut panty, an anticellulite work especially well capri and a seamless midthigh style. with all the miniskirts on In its Silk Reflections category, Hanes tap for fall. is also offering more anticellulite styles There was also color that release firming ingredients to re- infused into nearly duce the appearance of cellulite. every collection, even Hanes also launched a contemporary for trouser socks, which sock line called Stepz. While it has had are usually available in socks before, Stepz includes knee-highs, as more muted hues. A well as calf styles and anklets. The packag- number of companies ing comes in bold colors such as red and also have offered more yellow, and prices are three for $15. socks that have non- “We think with all of our new products binding features. we can at least hold even with last year, if Some firms are mov- not grow,” said Upchurch. “Overall, it is a ing into new categories tough retail environment, but we feel we as a way to eke out have momentum.” more market share. Levante, meanwhile, is offering a vari- Gold Toe, which is best ety of sheer and tights options, including known for its athletic fishnets, as well as socks, which now ac- looks, has added addi- count for about 50 percent of overall tional tights styles for sales, said Flynn. fall, as well as more Levante also started distributing trouser socks, including Jonathon Aston, a line from London. The some in bright colors. fashion-forward collection includes lots “With the vendor of color and whimsical details, such as base shrinking, many embroidered flowers. retailers are looking for Wolford, meanwhile, introduced a num- one vendor to supply all ber of stylish legwear looks such as a new their needs,” said take on fishnets that has large, open dots, Michelle Cannon, presi- as well as a style similar to a corset that dent of women’s and has a leather lace-up tie on the outside. children’s at Gold Toe. Wolford, which also has 24 stores in She said her compa- the U.S. and Canada, is in the midst of in- ny has started new ini- troducing a new bridal line, which in- tiatives aimed to assist cludes special packaging. In addition, the retailers in focusing on company is expanding its bodywear col- wear-now products. lection, which now accounts for about “We are trying to half of total sales, said Maria Basquil, na- make sure retailers are tional sales manager. showing the right prod- “Many stores have narrowed their uct at the right time and hosiery assortments, so we have to be- we are rolling out new come more important,” she noted. 17 Financial WWD, Weekly Stock Index Auditor to be Named MONDAY 52-WeekSales Amt By the Numbers

High Low P/E (00’s) Last Change ,

● MOSSIMO TAX BREAK: MARCH Broadline Retailers In Spiegel SEC Probe Santa Monica, Calif.-based 5.28 3.30 Bon-Ton Stores 6.1 376 3.80 -0.15 Mossimo Inc.’s fourth-quar- NEW YORK — 31.20 12.37 Dillard’s 8.4 46582 12.50 -1.45 Spiegel Inc. on ability to continue as a “going ter net income, which in- 10, 44.25 23.51 Federated 7.6 80943 25.29 -0.21 Friday entered into a consent concern.” The court document cluded a $6.4 million income decree with the Securities and said a subsequent proposed au- tax benefit, climbed 50.7 per- 2003 3.88 1.17 Gottschalk's 5.2 673 1.36 -0.10 Exchange Commission that, ditor report stated the audit cent to $5.4 million, or 34 25.70 14.07 J.C. Penney 15.1 114659 19.00 -0.85 among other conditions, re- firm had “substantial doubts” cents a diluted share, from 37.75 17.81 May Dept. Stores 10.5 61007 18.85 -0.77 quires the appointment of an in- about Spiegel in light of certain $3.6 million, or 23 cents, a 15.75 6.95 Saks 14.6 36621 7.44 -0.25 dependent auditor to review the financial issues. Spiegel, the year ago. Before tax benefits 59.90 18.63 Sears 3.9 345006 19.90 -1.88 firm’s financial records going SEC said, chose to “conceal” the in both periods, Mossimo’s 46.00 24.90 Target 14.3 299471 26.75 -1.90 back to the start of 2000. “going concern” issue by filing loss of $1.1 million in the The SEC sued Spiegel in a notices of late filings for its an- most-recent quarter com- 4.62 1.50 Value City - 3478 1.50 -0.35 Chicago federal district court nual and quarterly reports on pared with year-ago earnings 63.94 43.72 Wal-Mart 26.2 394038 48.12 0.06 for failure to disclose material the grounds that various lending of $399,000. Revenues for the information about its ability to agreements were not in place. quarter ended Dec. 31 tip- Softline Retailers continue operating its business. While the consent agreement toed up 0.4 percent to $2.6 33.19 17.84 Ann Taylor 13.5 47158 19.50 0.10 The SEC investigation is on- partially resolved some of the million from $2.59 million a 1.95 0.55 Bluefly - 471 0.77 -0.02 going, according to the regulato- SEC’s allegations, it also mandat- year ago. Results fell short of 23.50 15.40 Burlington Coat 10.2 3078 16.35 0.65 ry agency. Spiegel said in a ed that Spiegel agree to the ap- expectations, said the firm, statement that it is “cooperating pointment of an examiner to pro- primarily because of legal 9.14 2.70 Charming Shoppes 25.1 53710 2.76 -0.14 fully” with the investigation. tect the interests of minority expenses. As reported, the 23.73 13.02 Chico's FAS 21.4 96233 17.54 -0.53 The civil lawsuit charged shareholders. The examiner’s firm was embroiled in arbi- 17.50 11.06 Dress Barn 12.2 2857 12.73 -0.19 Spiegel with withholding infor- role will be to review Spiegel’s fi- tration, which it ultimately 17.95 8.20 Foot Locker 9.5 55909 10.16 -0.04 mation it received from its inde- nancial records and provide a re- lost, over certain finder’s 17.14 8.35 Gap 24.0 454348 13.73 0.69 pendent auditor over Spiegel’s port within 120 days. The report fees with Cherokee Inc., 78.83 44.00 Kohl's 26.2 254038 51.26 2.36 will address Spiegel’s financial which brokered the Target- condition and identify any mate- Mossimo license. Annual 22.34 10.88 Limited Brands 11.7 148722 11.86 -0.02 Biggest Percentage Changes For Week Ending March 7 rial accounting irregularities. sales of Mossimo products at 39.80 23.75 Neiman Marcus Group 9.8 3635 26.91 -0.17 The SEC reserved its right to Target rose to nearly $1 bil- 26.87 15.06 Nordstrom 25.1 45437 16.95 -0.06 Gainers Close Change seek civil penalties, among lion last year. Recently, the 20.11 10.81 Pacific Sunwear 18.5 68954 19.22 1.51 Galey & Lord 0.04 33.33 other remedies. firm extended its agreement Kellwood 29.00 13.28 As reported, Spiegel in the last with the discounter until 47.77 31.85 Ross Stores 13.5 65662 34.13 -0.08 Quiksilver 27.77 10.64 8.09 5.35 Syms - 345 7.40 -0.03 month appointed William Kos- Jan. 31, 2006. For the year, Pacific Sunwear 19.22 8.53 turos, managing director at the earnings increased 51.2 per- 39.64 20.59 Talbots 11.1 24837 24.12 -0.80 Tropical Sportswear 5.42 7.97 turnaround firm Alvarez & cent to $13.7 million, or 87 22.45 15.30 TJX 15.1 179988 16.63 0.56 Losers Close Change Marsal, as chief restructuring offi- cents a diluted share, from Value City 1.50 -18.92 cer and interim chief executive of- $9 million, or 59 cents, a year Vendors Dillard Dept. 12.50 -10.39 ficer. In the latter post, he suc- ago. Revenues ascended 19.3 57.91 41.55 Alberto Culver 19.2 11261 47.88 -1.83 Sears 19.90 -8.63 ceeded Martin Zaepfel at the firm, percent to $19.9 million from 57.10 43.49 Avon 22.7 60466 51.73 -0.27 Movado 17.90 -8.21 which is controlled by German $16.7 million in 2001. 23.40 13.65 Cherokee 9.8 284 15.09 0.00 G-III 4.72 -7.63 catalog giant Otto Versand GmbH. 36.74 17.19 Coach 28.3 51907 36.55 0.82 47.80 27.46 Columbia Sportswear 13.2 16385 34.86 -0.89 38.80 25.20 Estee Lauder 35.5 66517 27.95 -0.10 24.61 14.99 Fossil 13.4 12708 17.23 -0.75 8.49 4.49 G-III 25.9 1196 4.72 -0.39 99.45 82.53 Gucci 33.9 10853 94.49 0.38 8.55 3.30 Guess - 343 3.36 -0.19 41.68 25.61 Jones Apparel 11.0 38165 27.77 -0.59 32.50 19.70 Kellwood 20.6 13677 29.00 3.40 30.50 16.00 Kenneth Cole 16.9 8804 22.38 -0.27 33.25 23.55 Liz Claiborne 12.8 36121 28.72 0.52 13.25 4.53 Mossimo 5.4 426 4.79 0.04 25.20 14.60 Movado 11.4 672 17.90 -1.60 16.22 8.06 Nautica 13.3 3889 9.69 0.17 30.25 19.50 Oxford 16.7 389 23.35 0.30 16.46 10.80 Phillips-Van Heusen 11.0 3091 12.25 0.30 30.82 16.49 Polo Ralph Lauren 12.6 12289 20.47 0.28 28.51 17.26 Quiksilver 16.4 23709 27.77 2.67 6.50 1.85 Revlon - 971 2.50 -0.11 19.55 13.14 Russell Corp. 11.2 3912 16.42 0.27 FACTORING BY DESIGN 6.50 3.33 Tarrant Apparel - 1512 3.62 -0.10 16.65 5.83 Tommy Hilfiger 7.8 17182 6.19 -0.08 29.55 4.14 Tropical Sportswear - 2042 5.42 0.40 45.64 31.50 VF Corp. 10.2 16606 34.50 0.65 14.10 9.83 Warnaco - 5687 10.61 0.54

Textiles 4.45 1.21 Cone Mills 6.8 1093 1.99 0.14 6.15 1.55 Delta Woodside 128.3 27 3.84 -0.10 0.27 0.03 Galey & Lord - 107 0.04 0.01 8.00 2.50 Guilford Mills - 23 4.25 -0.20 11.66 4.55 Unifi - 3241 4.88 -0.22 A DIVISION OF IDBBANK Call Saul Langer, WWDStock Market Index for Week Ending March 7 SVP and Division Head or Michael Bell, VP Composite: 92.98 Broadline Stores: 93.34 Softline Stores: 88.70 at 212-273-2960 IDBFactors Empire State Building 350 Fifth Avenue, NY 10118 -0.40 -0.78 0.72

Vendors: 96.56 Textiles: 94.57 Index base of 100 is keyed to closing prices IDBBank is a service mark of Israel Discount Bank of New York. of Dec. 31, 2002. Total assets exceed $6 billion. MEMBER FDIC 0.37 -4.34 18 La Chanteuse:

2003 Kylie Minogue inin ChloéChloé atat 10, Café Flore. MARCH , MONDAY WWD,

Liz Goldwyn in a Bruce dress. Making Scents Surprisingly, an equal number of men and women turned out in Venice Beach Thursday night to toast Alexandra Balhoutis’ new boutique, Strange Invisible Perfumes. The fact that her parents, power couple Linda and Jerry Bruckheimer, invited several of their friends, might have had something to do with the amount of testosterone in the five-room Craftsman bungalow that now houses Balhoutis’ perfume lab and shop. “This is so different from every other party I went to growing up — which were never about me,” she marveled. “I like having my own party.” Balhoutis, a documentary filmmaker, developed the shop’s seven signature scents after immersing herself in six years of aromatherapy research. The 28- Café Kylie year-old also sells custom-made scents that retail at the daunting price tag of $700 an ounce. As guests like Liz Goldwyn and Anyone who ever suspected Kylie including photographers Michael Thompson, Peter Shiva Rose McDermott sniffed the Minogue of digitally enhancing her la- Lindbergh and Ellen von Unwerth, as well as Carine ready-made wares with names like la-las should have been at Café Flore on Roitfeld and Linda Wells, all snapped along. Fair Verona and Lyric Rain, eye® Thursday night when the pint-sized pop Even Phoebe Philo, whose personal taste can run director Ridley Scott surveyed the star climbed onto a tiny stage and toward the tomboyish, worked an overtly feminine scene, apparently taking notes for trilled cabaret standards like an old- look for the night, turning up at the party with foot- his latest film, titled “Perfume.” fashioned chanteuse. long blonde hair extensions. “I’m going to just keep Minogue came to the party, thrown by Chloé to going until I can come out on the runway naked celebrate the house’s 50th anniversary, holding underneath my hair,” she said. “Maybe I’ll even ride a hands with French heartthrob Olivier Martinez, but white horse like Bianca Jagger.” Once Kylie moved on RE that didn’t mean she didn’t have plenty of love left and the dance music was cranked up — and it was E

over for her audience. She shimmied and shook her cranked up loud enough to shake the windows — Philo FEUG way through “Fever” and “Peel Me a Grape” like a channeled Jagger’s fabled party ethic, dancing her way Phoebe Philo latter day Peggy Lee, while fashionable types through the jam-packed café well into the night. STEPHANE Y B Australia. “I was walking on the beach, and I saw INOGUE

a mother squeezing lemon juice onto her little M

Blonde Ambition girl’s head. I found the whole beach-body-fascism ; LONDON — It’s the dawn of a golden moment for thing fascinating, and started doing some re- ALLERY the fair-haired set. Until now, the talk of the town search at the London Library.” G IT A

has focused on other issues besides bombshells, That research turned up poems by Ovid and R T but two new exhibitions on blonde hair — “British bizarre tales of oversexed medieval clerics, and POR Blondes” at the National Portrait Gallery and led to unusual musings on Margaret Thatcher. IONAL

“Blondes Have More Fun” at the Getty “The more powerful she became, the more blonde Shiva Rose McDermott T

Shiva Rose McDermott A Images Gallery — are set to change that. she became. She had this imperial, shining N The shows coincide with this week’s re- golden halo that represented Britain,” OF

lease of “On Blondes” (Bloomsbury), a his- adds Pitman. Thatcher certainly was- TESY tory of blonde hair by Joanna Pitman, the n’t the first Englishwoman to rule former Tokyo correspondent and now the with a golden coiffure. At the begin- COUR photography critic for The Times. The ning of her years on the throne, AITS TR

scholarly but lively book traces the mys- Queen Elizabeth I had auburn hair. OR P tique of blonde hair from ancient Years later, at the time of the ONDE

Greece — when courtesans dyed their Spanish Armada victory, she was L B

;

hair with stinking potions in order to miraculously transformed — thanks to A resemble Aphrodite — through the a golden wig — into a radiant Twiggy, one of Britain’s Renaissance, Nazi Germany and the blonde. Pitman argues that it was “top 20” blondes. SARDELL

age of Princess Diana. clearly a power thing. TO “Blonde hair has had so many meanings over She says the most fascinating part “British Blondes” runs through July 6 and DONA

Y

the years. It’s been sexy, divinely immaculate, sin- of her research was seeing to what extent features a “top 20” of British blondes, including B ister and a symbol of power,” says Pitman. women would go to in order to be blonde. To wit, Diana, Princess of Wales; Twiggy, and Joely “Today, it can mean any and all of those things. during the Renaissance in northern Italy, they Richardson. “Blondes Have More Fun,” which

But one thing is for sure — we’ve all left the slathered a lethal mix of chemicals onto their opened at the Getty on Thursday and runs PERFUMES dumb blonde behind.” heads, which an American chemist later figured through April 26, features images of golden Pitman, a blonde who was mistaken for a saint out was a crude form of hydrogen peroxide. oldies including Andy Warhol, Brigitte Bardot and NVISIBLE Alexandra Balhoutis I during a trip to Kenya years ago, says the idea for Pitman also pitched the idea for the two muse- Marilyn Monroe. inin EmanuelEmanuel Ungaro.Ungaro. the book came from a more recent trip to um exhibitions. — Samantha Conti ANGE TR S

BAIZAN EMON A D Y B S O T O H P

19 WWD, MONDAY, MARCH 10, 2003 Two

24 hr.
Tailored Tailored
— With contributions from contributions With — Sharon Edelson, New York New Edelson, Sharon Cosmopolitan Conference facilities Intimate
business center The largest standard guest rooms of any Manhattan hotel restaurants Coats blamed the losses on the Jaeger business, It is unclear whether Bella Freud, who designs Sources said no one within the company has “What’s been going on at this company is dis- Meanwhile, the fate of Jaeger’s U.S. business is The vertically integrated company has 35 shops A Coats spokesman said the company is in a There have been reports in that New York Jaeger has kept such a low profile in the U.S. are part of a group of 12 specialty stores that “We Janet Brown, owner of an eponymous specialty In May 2001, Jaeger jump-started its image Last fall, Jaeger unveiled its first store proto- The 1,500-square-foot unit was designed by Jaeger’s Madison Avenue store, which opened Jaeger has produced apparel since 1884, when Continued from page 2 sales of $94.8 million. Dollar figures are con- verted from British pounds at the current ex- change rate. which has suffered from problems with fit and de- sign. Jaeger will release its full-year results this month. The net asset value of both Jaeger and is $75 million. Viyella a capsule collection will for continue Jaeger, work- ing with the brand. Freud, whose contract expires for comment. in June, could not be reached been paid since the sale, and everyone is shocked sale. about the prospect of another gusting,” said one source. Last unclear. WWD October, reported that the 120- year-old British brand was working toward creat- ing a broader market appeal, with North America an important part of the plan. in the U.S. and Canada combined, along with a handful of specialty store accounts that carry collections. Jaeger’s women’s quiet period and could not comment on its strategy. Coats will release its results on March 25. Ian Welham, chief operating officer for Jaeger North America, issued a similar statement. Jaeger is planning to rent its flagship at 818 between Madison 68th Avenue, and 69th Streets, as well as its other stores in the U.S. even know it still existed. that some retailers didn’t includes Saks Jandell D.C., in Auers Washington, in Denver and Maison Weiss in Jackson, Miss.,” said Bob Benham, chief executive of Balliet’s, an up- scale specialty store in Oklahoma is “Jaeger City. a name that just never comes up. Honestly, I didn’t know they were still around because they have no presence in this part of the country.” store in Port Washington, N.Y., said Jaeger never progressed beyond its traditional roots. “It was a classic in the Burberry vein, but it never got mod- know anybody that carries the brand.” ern. I don’t campaign in the U.K. with a fresh focus, including an updated signature line and an exclusive and edgier capsule collection designed by Freud, ac- companied by a new marketing and advertising campaign and a revamped store design that bowed in Leeds, England, and is being rolled out across the U.K. type outside the U.K. at the upscale NorthPark Center shopping mall in Dallas. David Collins, and first-year sales are planned at $750,000, said Welham at a cocktail party held last month to christen the new store. in 1973, is on track for sales of noted. $1.5 Welham million year, this its first shop opened in London with a collection of wool items. It evolved into a luxury brand, with many styles cut from cashmere, silk and camel hair. Another Jaeger Sale? Jaeger Another Sales associates each participate Pro-forma first-year sales are pro- Between four and six more stores going “We’re slowly and testing fashion shows and other events are also planned for members. in week-long training programs and continue training after hiring with weekly meetings. Like Chico’s, stores are heavily staffed, with up to eight associates per store working on weekend days. Like Chico’s, Pazo’s sales philosophy encourages be- friending and building trust with cus- tomers, in a party-like atmosphere. jected at $1.6 million a store, or around $500 per square foot, though estimates are conservative, said Shapiro, depending on the traffic each individual space draws. are planned to open in the fall, but the rollout after that is intentionally vague. this concept carefully, said Shapiro. “We’ll know more after a year of lis- tening to what our customers tell us.” Two looks at the new Pazo store in Atlanta. the new Pazo looks at Two LIVE LARGE. FLATOTEL Leveraging Chico’s buying power “Chico’s credibility and clout al- With no major media advertising Stores average 2,600 square feet. A plasma screen video wall in the name was already copyrighted. with global suppliers gave Pazo a clear advantage right from the start, said officials. lows us to get good deals and small runs, as little as 180 pieces, that no small operation starting out could do,” said Shapiro. “That will lead to great margin opportunities now, and down the road.” Chico’s has 378 stores in 41 states, with sales of around $500 million. to begin, Pazo is building a mailing list for its frequent customer club. Similar to Chico’s Program,Passport Club Pazo will reward customers with discounts, but its primary focus is brand-building and gaining cus- tomer feedback. A Pazo “Lookbook” and a web site, mailer, will launch at the end of March, with fashion edito- rial, but no selling as of yet. In-store ments, charm bracelets or vintage-in- spired earrings. Like product, store design bears little relation to Chico’s. Although the units according to space varyrestric- slightly, tions, most have a uniform ambience. Minimalist neutral tones, Terrazzo tile floors, tiny crystal chandeliers and halogen track lights make stores ap- pear bright, clean and contemporary. Clothing is hung around the perimeter, and folded on chrome, glass and wood shelves in the Shoes store’s and center. accessories are displayed in lighted re- cessed areas on the wall. back of the store continuously runs video, produced in-house of models cavorting in the latest Pazo fashions and lifestyle, designed to reinforce the Pazo brand. The name, Pazo, was originally intended as “Pazzo”, Italian slang for “cool,” but officials found the had to drop a “z” when they One look at Pazo — the

Yes, this Yes, is a very special place. Windows that open, bathrooms you can take a bath in, rooms that have room. 135 West 135 52nd West Street / 212-887-9400 / / 1-800-FLATOTEL www.flatotel.com The clothing is of-the-moment. “Our research told us this customer With With apparel at 85 percent of in- “We’re “We’re going for close-to-runway A trendy, fashion-follower, she de- Pazo Pazo is owned and operated by The departure is intentional. This Bottoms include cargos, capris or full-length stretch silhouettes, to sev- eral denim pieces, in various washes, range rises and embellishments. Tops from little tanks with rhinestone or sequin details to ruffled and abstract print shirts. Mostly casual, the mix in- cludes a few little dresses or long black broomstick skirts. Accessories include artisan-style necklaces, with shells, stones and other natural ele- may go one place for great pants, an- other and for still T-shirts, another for shoes,” said Jayme Alemechko, senior merchant. “There’s no one place where customers say they can find it all at the same time.” ventory, Pazo also offers ventory, shoes, acces- sories and intimate apparel. The mix allows wardrobing and multiple sales, similar to Chico’s formula, and gives an Pazo edge over other fashion stores, said officials. fashion,” said Barry Shapiro, senior vice president, Pazo. “We can trans- late designer fashion right away. We can interpret a raw silk asymetrical skirt, by a designer like Marc Jacobs, and have it stores the same month it appears in Vogue. The difference is, ours is $49, not $800, and of course, it’s not raw silk.” Prices average $40, with a range of $14 to $118. vours magazines and other media, wants designer looks at sharp prices, all in-house mer- and wants it fast. With chandise, groups arrive daily to satisfy the customer’s desire for constant new- ness. Apparel is 85 percent trendy and fashion-forward, with 15 percent in key items of mostly tops and denim. Fort Fort Myers-based Chico’s, but posi- tioned as a separate with entity, a separate merchandise and product development team. After more than a year of research, Chico’s identified opportunity in a target customer, 25- 35 years old, with a $40,000-plus household income. new retail experiment by Chico’s tar- gets an entirely different customer, one who shops Express, Bebe or Zara. Three Pazo stores, Memphis, Tenn. and in Scottsdale, Ariz. Atlanta, opened A Wednesday. total of 10 are planned by the end of March — in- cluding another Atlanta unit, stores in Boca Raton, Fla., Houston and Dallas, Calif.—in both and Mission Viejo, Tex. malls and lifestyle centers. By Georgia Lee Georgia By ATLANTA — plasma video wall with sexy models in low-rise jeans, the hip minimalist in- terior showcasing the trendiest looks — would never invite comparisons to customer. Chico’s and its baby-boomer Chico’s Unveils Its Pazo Concept Pazo Its Unveils Chico’s 20 2003 10, Opportunity Knocks for Luxe Buyers MARCH , Continued from page one put a damper on Dickson’s plans. “We believe this is an excellent closely followed Adrover’s mode of transportation. When sales of time for investment in select businesses,” he said. “We are poised luxury products were riding high, any designer with a pair of scis- buyers with a strong cash position and well respected within the MONDAY sors and a degree from FIT was ripe for acquisition by a luxury financial community based on our conservative operating philos- conglomerate. Even newcomers like Adrover was at the time, and ophy and years of positive financial results and continued growth. whose talent was praised by the press but whose sales were While the world is clearly going through a challenging retail WWD, untested, got generous deals. cycle, we have a long-term optimistic view about quality products “It was kind of a free-for-all,” Adrover’s business manager, that offer fashion and style.” Dennis Walker, recalled. “People were throwing money and cars While this is a buyer’s market, companies still aren’t giving at designers.” away their secondary brands for nothing. “We’ve seen a couple of Some of the most rapacious buyers were European companies. businesses that people paid $200 million for that are worth 20 In the late Nineties, LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, Prada percent of that now. These are companies that are not worth a lot and Gucci Group appeared to be invincible juggernauts able to of money. They’re going to attempt to sell a lot of these brands. take little-known brands and make The question is, ‘Who are the realists them bigger and better. Now, a chas- An outfit [in terms of asking price]?’” Howard tened Wall Street has turned a cynical from Michael wondered. eye on acquisitions, and shareholders Kors’ fall One investment banker who looked are telling ceo’s to stick to their prover- collection. at Jil Sander about a year ago conclud- bial knitting and put their resources — ed that Prada Group “paid way too both financial and managerial — into much money for that company and in- their tried-and-true core brands. vested a huge amount of money in Jil In general, buyers seem to have a leg Sander stores. It’s probably worth less up over sellers these days. The door has than it was worth in the beginning.” Domenico De Sole been opened for opportunistic buyers Jil Sander wasn’t the only one with a such as Lawrence Stroll and Silas Chou hefty price tag. Like the dot-com indus- — the proud new owners of Michael try, when venture capitalists funded Kors — or any other investor nursing a start-ups basing their investment deci- dream of building a luxury group of his sions on little more than a ceo’s hypo- or her very own, to swoop down and thetical vision, fashion titans believed pick brands off the larger fashion vines. they could breathe life into a luxury LVMH’s sale of the Hard Candy and business and virtually spin wool into Urban Decay cosmetics brands, Gucci’s gold. At one particularly frenzied mo- recent announcement that Yves Saint ment, Prada and LVMH joined forces in Laurent will turn a profit one year later 1999 to buy 51 percent of Fendi for $545 than most recently forecast and reports million, which valued the company at that Compagnie Financière Richemont more than $1 billion. AG is dissatisfied with its Lancel pur- Of course, the “great brands,” as chase are just a few examples of the up- Stroll calls them, are probably not going hill battle luxury brands face in these to end up on the selling block. A compa- times of geopolitical uncertainties, ny would be foolish to dispose of its weak global economies and nervous strongest assets. Then again, everyone’s consumers. definition of great is different and a “There was a moment where a com- brand that is languishing at one compa- pany could take the luxury of nurturing ny because its resources are being di- small brands,” said John Howard, sen- rected elsewhere could be nurtured ior managing director and head of mer- and grown under a different owner. chant banking at Bear Stearns, which Not surprisingly, fund groups are operates a fund that invests in fashion taking a safer path than entrepreneur- and retail. Because of the difficult econ- ial folks like Stroll and Chou, who suc- Yves Carcelle omy, Howard said there’s now no longer cessfully built Tommy Hilfiger into an time for marginal brands to leach valu- industry giant. Lawrence Stroll able time and money from healthier Laurence C. Leeds, chairman of and Silas Chou brands. Buckingham Capital Management, “A lot of the acquisitions had to do which invests in the fashion industry, with ego on one level and a belief that subscribes to the Leslie Wexner school the stock market would keep rewarding of brand building: the Limited Brands growth,” Howard said. “There’s no more ceo has said a company isn’t worth own- or less discipline in the fashion indus- ing unless it has the potential of becom- try than anywhere else. Three to five ing a $1 billion business. years ago it seemed like anything was “Nobody wants to back or buy a possible and that you could grow any- small, unprofitable fashion designer,” thing overnight.” said Leeds, whose fund is focusing ex- But the state of the economy has not clusively on public companies these dulled everyone’s appetite for acquisi- days. “Generally speaking, unless you tions. can get a business into the hundreds of “If anything, it’s an opportune time millions in terms of volume, it doesn’t to buy because of cheaper leases for work.” stores,” said Stroll, who owns the brands Asprey and Garrard with That seems to be the strategy of LVMH ceo Bernard Arnault, his partner, Chou. “Prices, too, should be less expensive. Good who, after sparking the luxury sector’s takeover mania, now plans companies are always a value and the great brands out there are to focus his investment and energies on brands and stores with becoming greater. I’m not saying that Silas and I are actively look- the most profit potential — and quietly divest of “nonstrategic” ing for more acquisitions, but if another opportunity like Michael and “marginal” brands and assets. But he so far has declined to Kors crosses our plate, then I’d be very excited to have it. Maybe be more specific. we’ll buy five companies in the medium term, maybe we won’t buy However, a source at LVMH called the sale of Thomas Pink “a any. It all depends on the opportunities we spot.” virtual certainty” and said the company has been quietly shop- Stroll added that his criteria for future acquisitions is growth ping around Guerlain for the last 18 months. In addition, LVMH potential. “The companies we’ve bought are very young — in their is trying to boost Givenchy to make it more attractive to prospec- infantile stages — and for the next 10-15 years they will be all tive buyers, sources claimed. Kenzo and Loewe also have been about growth. For that reason, too, I think the economy has less ef- cited as fashion houses the ceo may be willing to part with, and fect on us than it would on a mature brand.” the company has made public references to a sale of its troubled While Hong Kong businessman Dickson Poon stayed on the DFS business. sidelines during the last buying spree, he remains prepared to That doesn’t mean that LVMH isn’t open to finding the next pounce on designer brands if the right one becomes available. John Galliano or Marc Jacobs. Yves Carcelle, chief executive of Dickson North America president and ceo Charles M. Jayson said, Louis Vuitton and head of LVMH’s fashion and leather goods “We are exploring many businesses that we believe have growth business group, cited the company’s one-third purchase of the potential and are viable candidates for investment or acquisition. Marc Jacobs business in 1997 as a positive example that could be “We continue to exercise a focused and disciplined approach, replicated. with the criteria being upscale or luxury businesses that are or “When we invested in Marc Jacobs in 1997, he was a young can be evolved into lifestyle brands,” he added. “We pay special designer,” Carcelle said. “In six years, the company has been attention to companies that can be enhanced by our wholesale multiplied by 50, so we have proof that this group can invest and and retail network of owned companies in the Dickson Group, help the young designer to develop his business. We’re very like Tommy Hilfiger handbag and small leather goods in the U.S., happy that we invested in Marc Jacobs’ own brand. He’s proven the Harvey Nichols Group in the U.K., Paris-based S.T. Dupont to be a fantastic talent both at Louis Vuitton in France and with and Dickson Concepts International Ltd. in Hong Kong.” his own collection.” Miguel Adrover Like Stroll and Chou, Jayson isn’t letting the dismal economy According to Carlo Pambianco, president of the luxury goods 21 WWD, consultancy in Milan that bears his name, there were 122 mergers “Some of the marginal players are going to fall by the wayside,” and acquisitions in 1999, a 107 percent increase from the previ- Ruzow added. “You’re going to wind up with a handful of top de- ous year’s 59. In 2000, M&A operations rose 29 percent to 158. In signers who are going to dominate the real estate in the stores.” MONDAY 2001, the number of operations dropped 2 percent to 155. Last But Nancy Koehn, a professor of business administration spe- year, there were 162, up 5 percent from 2001. These figures in- cializing in retail and branding at Harvard Business School, said clude M&A deals in countries like the U.K., the U.S., France and the aspirational factor that has kept people interested in luxury ,

Italy. They also include companies buying control of subsidiaries goods for thousands of years will continue to attract them — that MARCH or licensees and small companies buying other small companies. is, whenever the next boom cycle may come. While there’s been a slowdown in M&As in terms of percent- “There’s room for more brands, whether in microbrewery age growth, Pambianco believes M&A activity will continue, but beer, coffee or fashion,” she said. “There’s room for more young with small and medium-sized companies buying their peers. designers. Look at how many new players we have on the land- 10,

As it is, the big boys have their hands full right now. scape and the fact that there’s so much more mixing of high and 2003 “We’re very happy with what we’ve bought, and now we need low now. I think we’ll see a lot of fabulous first-name or new- to work with the brands we’ve acquired,” said Gucci ceo name designers whether LVMH is funding them or not. We just Domenico De Sole at the Milan rtw shows late last month. “Our all have to be better empathic sociologists and figure out what priority is to turn around what we’ve already purchased.” De the luxury customer really wants.” Sole added that the company was not actively seeking out acqui- Since fashion is all about reinvention, Adrover is looking for sitions. “It’s a question of time management for us. ways to develop his business in the post-Pegasus world. Walker “Yes, I think there could be good opportunities now,” he con- said the designer will have only one major show a year. “All the tinued. “But it’s a very different economic environment today, shipments and capsule collections will be related to the show. compared to when we made our acquisitions. We went from one That will make the collection more cohesive.” Adrover believes brand to nine brands overnight, and we’re repositioning them that women don’t want to see a wide variety of themes from sea- under very difficult circumstances — but that’s life.” son to season within the same collection. Some experts question whether the idea of owning multiple Adrover is working on a shoe license in Majorca. “Our plan in- brands under the same roof is viable in today’s business climate. cludes a five- to 10-year program for licensing products,” Walker “It’s unclear whether the strategy was ever good,” said Peter J. said. “We’re also in the process of talking to different financial Solomon, chairman of the investment bank that bears his name. backers.” “Whether LVMH in fact got synergies or savings or added sales is Adrover, who is filling orders for Colette in Paris and Jeffrey questionable. It looked like every company was its own silo.” New York, said, “For now, it’s easier to work with boutiques be- Dana Telsey, a retail analyst at Bear Stearns, said sales gains cause they’re more flexible in terms of my financial situation. and expectations are being moderated to suit the muted economy, I’ll make clothing for anybody that will give me 50 percent in but insisted the multibrand model still has validity. advance.” “Vertical integration brings better real estate costs, better ad- So what of the potential cast-off brands, which luxury groups vertising costs and better manufacturing costs,” she said. “You’ve made conquests of, like so many notches on a bedpost? Maybe seen some of that already with Gucci, which bought the Sergio there’s a buyer waiting in the wings for some. One thing is cer- Rossi shoe factories. That’s now helping Gucci produce better- tain: Those doing the acquiring will be much more realistic quality shoes. about company valuations now than they were in the any-price- “Some small brands may never have the potential to grow into goes Nineties. big brands,” she added. “It takes a lot of manpower. Each model “Today, for a designer to be viable is no different from any has its own positive attributes and maximizing optimal perform- other company,” Ruzow said. “They have to be profitable. They ance is key.” might lose a little money on the couture or rtw side of the busi- Steven L. Ruzow, president of women’s wear at Kellwood Co. ness because that’s the show and you have to have a show, but and the former ceo of Pegasus, learned the hard way. they have to be profitable with fragrance and accessories. At the “In tough times, categories either stay flat or shrink,” he said. A look from end of the day, they have to make money overall, and few de- “At the same time, competition is stiffer than ever in terms of the the Jil signers do.” number of brands, and all those brands are more aggressive than Sander fall — With contributions from Samantha Conti, London; ever in order to survive. That doesn’t create a climate that will be collection. Miles Socha, Paris, and Amanda Kaiser receptive to a niche company or niche business. and Courtney Colavita, Milan

By Demand, the Next In-Depth Category Report. Accessories & Legwear In Depth Section II: March 31 Close: March 17

If you’re a player in the accessories or legwear markets, you’ll want to be part of this important issue.

The definitive WWD breakdown of the players, the retailers, the consumers and the strategies that drive these markets. This is the opportunity to showcase your brand among the category leaders to reach the retail decision makers.

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Manufacturing Facility sign &fabric.Fastwork.212-714-2186 Apparel/Accessory/Textile Specialists PATTERNS, SAMPLES, $19.95 for4258sqftwith12windows PATTERN/SAMPLES CASHMERE! FineGaugesweaters! ork. Custom-madeBridalwr212-629-4808 Owner212-695-0005or718-387-0500 eia aaeetwt vr40 over with management merican High qlty,reasonableprice.Anyde- t ao consi ebr thru newborn in accounts major ith PATTERNS/SAMPLES COTTON, RAYON,NYLON,SILK, PTTNS/SMPLS/PROD Creative Financing hlrnwa rchildrens-related or childrenswear RASKIN EXECUTIVESEARCH Call Bradat212-889-1646ext316 orders &contracts Can turngoodsinthreeweeks! First ClassExistingInstallation Call Jimat212-889-1646ext319 Units from1,200SFto4,300 www.HilsonMana *212-751-5884 Owner/Mgmnt* 8th Ave,#55524/7 We insureandfundpurchase Call Jerr www.resumesforfashion.com 60 E42ndStreet,NYC10165 Special reduceto$17.95for www.raskinexecsearch.com Updating/Phone Interviews (212)697-1282/(800)221-4425 3108 sqftwith11windows Call Sherr PRODUCTIONS Floor PlansonWebsite PRODUCTION Each Floor.....7,500SF Total...... 15,000 SF Landlord WillDivide 2 ContiguousFloors Internal Staircase Dominican Fax: 212-949-6146 212-869-2699 y 809-246-1885ext23 y 212-719-0622. y [email protected] g 888-782-4188 ement.com e , ’ tuto,srn iesdgraphics licensed Adobe strong strong con- struction, bag of knowledge Required: skills, Illustrator Backpack Co’s Accessory divison. jr major For kls utko rns E-mail trends. handbag know Illustrator (Fax)212-725-7116 (Tel)212-481-1941 yrs. MAC must resume: [email protected] or Strong 4+ exp. create skills, Req: & ign board des lines. on get St new to 33rd oppty Great W 10 Dsgr/Ladies &JrHandbags/ to100k sptswr. boys Call 973-564-9236JaralFashionAgc Current in WearFirst, $45-50K exp w/ ASSOC DESIGNER Hang tops. yg PLUGG, PointZero,etc.10W34thSt in knit exp Current mens $60K to yg DESIGNER in exp Current mens orboysdenimtwillbottoms. $60K to DESIGNER Designer experienced decor seeks w room and items bags diaper manu- company facturing toddler / baby Leading (Fax)212-725-7116 (Tel)212-481-1941 bkgd. [email protected] $75K Designer to o prepared including knowledge A literate, showroom be Computer skills. busy sales. and strong very handle assist phone tasks to and able be multiple style also and must has Individual integrity, who organizational of player and team lots caring oriented personable, seeks detail energetic, company an knitwear Contemporary @ resume email fax or 212-714-0401 Please a [email protected] Pam is the person. attn: for Illustrator production. opportunity right & Excellent through MUST. Photoshop programs concept MAC toddler of exp. from years development 4 least creative for at with seeks designer Company CAD Mayfair The chain. large devel trendy Product Call 973-564-9236JaralFashionAgc Midtown Kidswear. exp. or or JR in Tween exp. Current $100-115K Buyer screens/emb, Char- must. plaids, a resumeto: Email acter licaplus. Photoshop Mac & sketches. Illustrator technical prints, & storyboards cre- to ate Designer Graphic seeks co Mens creative. in experience extremely years -3 childrens. Exc.Salary&Benefitspackage. 2 be Minimum Individual girls. should and infant/toddler level to design Illustrator/Photoshop, taste of great knowledge seeks with company individual Childrenswear Major Data Entry$35K Sales Asst$45K A A A A A good background helpful. Call/Faxresumew/salaryreq.to: have importing Must skills; computer Depts. Sales Production with work & to individual Detailed akrudhlfl l.fxrsm & resume salar fax Pls. Importing good helpful. skills. background have E-mail & Must Word Excel, sales Depts. with Production work & to individual Detailed rvnwvnadki os Mac tops. knit Jr. and 7-16 Illustrator required.112West34thSt. woven exp. Current Driven $85K. Designer uthn /MD,LI Paris LEI, MUDD, w/ Blues, etcCall973-564-9236JaralAgc hang sportswear. denim $100-125K. JR. Must in exp. Merchandiser Current Designer - detail-oriented & MAC Illustratorproficiencyamust. organized be Must Please faxresumeto212-244-0773 have experiencew/Excel&Word. of growingaccessoryimportco.Must co. organize fashion troubleshoot- strong er. Fax973-379-1275JaralAgc meetings, calendar, of run and Setup execs required. top assisting ASSOCIATE DESIGNER Tel: 212-840-0182/Fax:212-840-1098 Computer Artist/Designer CUSTOMER SERVICE Call 973-564-9236JaralFashionAgc S400 aplus.Faxresume&salaryhistory dmin Openings dministrative AssistanttoPresident exp. Current $50-70K. Asst dmin t iiu f3yasexperience. years 3 of minimum ith Admin. Assistant infant/toddler. Careeroppt’y.MAC DMINISTRATIVE ASST. Fax resumetoMeg@212-532-4335 Please faxresumeto212-239-2766 Administrative Asst. cct’s Payable$40 Designer to$60KCurrentexp.in ASST. DESIGNER Designer/Backpacks/to 70k+ y Call 973-564-9236Jaralagc [email protected] requirementsto:(212)244-1674 [email protected] proficient. 110W34thst. [email protected] ACCESSORIES CO. Licensed Characters DESIGNER Activewear 212-864-5595 Men’s y y . y y K y y f : s’ o ek x’ nii for individ exp’d seeks BRANDED producttoDEPTstores. co. Est’d TO $75K DSNR -MENSACTIVE o nbs ed toganalytical Strong reqd. bus. skills &Excelproficiency. in Bache- allocation. & lor SKU Perform investment in & targets. turns. segments, inventory margin bus. exp. of maximizing gross analysis for & yrs. Resp. re- plans, inventory/ 5+ / ceipt sales OTB, managing devel. w/ & incl. Duties indiv. planning/allocation. seeks W and ensure to shipments documents and processing overseas scheduling monitoring include individua Responsibilities seeks company w apparel Major truck- brokers, ers &forwarders.Word/Excelamust. with custom- communicate invoice ers, shipments, int’l Track of Please faxresumeto:212-244-0773 knowledge programming. retail on topoffashiontrends&imports. Word some Must experience, & yrs. a Excel & 3 seeking handbags. least background at lady’s is have of co. designer handbag Leading ays t at,arti/hl p in op. retail/whsle a w Barth, St. Calypso Other [email protected] *Tech Designer-Nwbrn&Infantmfr....To$65 * * * * * * * * * * * * seeks exp. company ladies/missys with Must havemassmerchantsexp. apparel individual Major & salary resume to212-398-5464.EOE fax consideration, trends. For o re- quired. experience knowledge color yrs. depth 5 forecast Minimum in imports. have to also fabric able Must Merchandiser. of be knowledge o and broad seeks division have a Must Co., mfr., dress Kellwood & suit Major and 3-5 salary Minimum Good benefits package. trends. experience. seeks years forecast company identify to and able wear be Must Merchandiser. infant Major jun- straw, moderate in ior, andcontemporarylines. background Must strong for backpacks. experi- have and handbags seeks merchandiser priced firm enced Accessory Major your email Please resume to:[email protected] w/exp. benefits & clients organize Salary commens literate. w/ detail-oriented, computer be interact & Must to hair req’d. Ability & merch. Merchandise jewelry a for w looking costume is co. accessory trendy Jr MERCHANDISER in held replies toddle All and for confidence. Emailresume: required. proficiency line savvy the CAD a trend sleepwear. have together girls Must and put company. to experi- one ability years with 5 ence minimum experience with seeks individual sleepwear children’s Inc in International Leeward eiey nweg fA 0 required. 400 AS of LC experienceamust. Knowledge delivery. * ftxiepouto epu.Please helpful. production fax resumeto:845-425-6370 textile Knowledge literate. of computer be person. Must control inventory experienced * t.Rq lutao,Photoshop. Illustrator, (Fax)212-725-7116 (Tel)212-481-1941 corrections Req: & do E-mail res:[email protected] w/designers info., etc. coord track Must exp licensors, prev Backpack/bags. have children’s For Merchandiser/Designer Judy *JustMgmt.*800-544-5878Agcy. APPAREL STAFFING,LTD. INVENTORY CONTROL IMPORT ASSISTANT MERCHANDISER Fax resumeto:212-213-4347Attn:Mike MERCHANDISER/SALES A.D. FORMANASSOC. Spec Tech-C.Wr.mfr-Allsizeranges Spec Tech-C&SKnits&Sweaters..... Graphic Dsgnrs(3)-App&Acc-LicChtr....$Ope Pre Prod’nAsst-LIloc-sptswrmfr.... Prod’n Coords(2)-bilingual-sptwrmfr..To$50 Prod Mgr-C&SKnits-Walmartexp Merch Dir-handbags&smlgds...To$100 $BOE Sr. Merchandiser-Jr.Girlsdenim... Design Dir-Jr.GirlsDenimexp Designer-Infant &Tdlrexp .....To$90K Designer-Nwbrn &Infantexp Sales Mgr-Jr&GirlsDenimSptwr Sr. AcctExec-BtrWomen’sSptwr...$Ope Division Head-JrSweaterBkgrd [email protected] orfax:212-869-3938 t iiu er experience. years 3 minimum ith mns e’ hlrnsclothing children’s & men’s omen’s, design accessory in exp yrs 3 min. / IMPORT MANAGER l salse motrrequires importer established ell Openings inApparelThru Please faxresumeto212-239-2766 450 7thAve.(AGCY)268-6123 Alan Wolf-Since1971 hrcal Baby clothingprints,logos,etc. MERCHANDISER MERCHANDISER Licensing Coordinator/55k++ or faxresumeto(212)302-1161 Planner/Allocator Lady’s Handbags Fax resumeto212-239-2766. Fax resumeto212-239-2766 Graphic Artist$260K Head Designer Fax resume:212-563-4294 y Jud [email protected] TEXTILES y @JustMgt.com ...... To $90K ...... To ,aleader a ., ...... utbe Must ...... $BOE

... To $40K To $40K To $50 .. $Open timely $BOE $BOE K K K n d d K f f r r n / l atrq rmicpint completion. to inception From 1407 Bwa req. mart rvt ae.35yasexperience years extensive Cole, 3-5 produce required. Mustbewillingtotravel. label. Kenneth also private and Diahann for Champion, Carroll We Rowley, licenses collections. Cynthia for optical Developer hold and Prod a sunwear eyewear seeks leading company a Optical, Robinson B product presentations concept and seasonal executing include executing designing materials, menswear and a presentation Responsibilities the seeking designing for is division. assistant manufacturer design Large Production Immed. Production in exp. Current j $60K. to Coord salary Production including resumes histor fax consideration, please immediate For plan. 401(k) W Link Retail also helpful. Prior Wal-Mart plus. with a experience experience AS400 must, literate a Computer skills. communications w Coordinator children’ w highly Production a w and seeks motivated company women’s accessories Leading re- salary. w/ resume Fax o quirements to:(212)465-8122 sense and urgency. skills computer specing, communication daily up, w produc- follow in assist tion to ind. seeking oriented detail co., outerwear children’s Busy Fluent for factories. overseas e-mail in English/Chinese.Fax212-268-8229. w/ Word, up N Excel, follow computer in in asst, based knowledge production co for clothing looking / bag Import fax Pease train. will resume andsalaryrequirementsto: orders, but experience on files, preferred Work maintain Word. literate, schedules, and P.C. Excel working, MS hard Detail oriented, o Requirements; dept to mgr. Reporting import production company. the garment in major work to Clerical player. team a Please EmailresumetoCynthiaat: & needed. self-motivated Excel be and Must Outlook overseas MS essential. with and v communication delivery final to production daily order garment of initial phases from all in help w workin experience Previous organized. commu- and nication up follow strong have Must Production 1 seeks A co. apparel Mid-town n eeispcaeicuiga including package benefits and oss xeln rte n verbal and written Team and excellent a organized be possess oriented, must detail candidate Player, ideal The and details regard- order carious otherfollow-upissues. be- sales depts. and liaison sales artwork ing a and as design tween act vendors, overseas Responsibilities environment. paced o knowledge have Must prodn bet liaison sales. to able & be shd skills, include Responsibilities advantage. an raiigsaoa arcdeliveries. fabric Must havestrongorganizationalskills. seasonal organizing •Production Coordinator STYLIST/DESIGN ASST Fax resumeandsalaryrequirements: COORDINATOR ASST. .dnmbtospiaelblfrwal- for label private bottoms denim r. Product Development Production Coordinator Fax resumeandsalaryrequirements nos arcadti nweg is knowledge trim and Fabric endors. PRODUCTION ASST ssatad1Pouto Coordinator. Production 1 and ssistant otrvsi nuba n fast and with communication upbeat daily include an ill in experience thrives years 2 of ho minimum a ith up follow w/good vendors, /overseas is (China) manufacturers overseas ith fe necletcompensation excellent an offer e ieytndognztoa klsadfunyi A,Ilsrtrand Illustrator CAD, in fluency successful as and well The as Photoshop orcomparabledesignsoftwarepackages. skills division. experience, organizational sourcing goods recently leather finely-tuned extensive leather our a have small should join seeks candidate and to comapny handbag accessories merchandiser/designer and launched experienced footwear and Italian dynamic fashion leading A Please faxresume,coverletterandsalaryrequirementsto:212-696-2098 •Production Assistant ASST /CLERICAL attn: LisaJimenez212-764-4342 PRESENTATION Lisa Jimenezat212-764-4342 [email protected] y [email protected] PRODUCTION andrequirementsto:212-842-3217 PRODUCTION hr@llo y 212-683-0437 oremail: kls edti retdand oriented detail be skills, DOMESTIC . Call973-564-9236Agc MERCHAN IMPORT OPENINGS y AND dind.com y . DISER/DESIGNER Y g s f f f , o meit osdrto send consideration immediate atmosphere. resume to,Att:HR informal an Business Guaranteed For in mid-December. plan. dress in casual sharing paid 401k profit matching bonus a coverage, and dental medi- and top-of-the-line cal paid fully including Current exp.inCo.doing150-200mil Strong Production SourcingExec.to$200K. and Island salary literate. Excellent benefits. FaxResumetoAttn:Marie Long company. based skills. communication Computer shipping processing break- allocation, down size purchasing/coordination, W fashion relatedindustry.Salary:high$30’ w Y Gucci, include Nine Lauren, W Ralph brands Polo Dior, Christian Our eyewear. W years 5 MINIMUM exp. Faxresumeto: must. a exp. and import background fabric construction, Knowledge of liaison. & customer/production development product include req’d Duties skills verbal communication/computer Good individual. motivated, oriented highly detail seeks mfr. label Pvt. ++ 17 w etc. hang Bay Million units.Call973-564-9236Agc Must Union LEI, WW. Blues, plus Paris bottoms East denim Far ++. from sourcing $150K exp. Mgr Current Sourcing Production v woven and knit in w Experienced computer extensive skill isimperative,specificallyExcel. An releases/delivery notifications. documents/bank processing, order seeks w purchase manufacturer include Responsibilitie individual. dress detail-oriented Leading ue rn ei.Yuwl interact will You media. con- print and trade releases to sumer mailings press preparing writing and including, efforts nectn pnn nordnmc fast- dynamic, paced MarketingDepartment. our in opening exciting an o distributor and manufacturer Italian uthv iiu r Repi a in etc. exp PR yrs 2 requisitions, minimum a shows, have purchase trade Must shoots, photo maintain will designer arrange You from issues. also reps PR with regarding well liaison companies as as agencies act as placement product and 973-564-9236 JaralFashionAgc Jones NewYork,SagHarbor,etc.Call rates. SourcingWW.MustHangw/ Production/Import Asst Product/Sales Development E-mail resume&salaryrequirements ol. wholesalerequiredinrelatedsepa- uwl sitmngri vrl PR overall in manager assist will ou t aho aaieeditors/stylists magazine fashion ith mns e’,adgr’ sportswear. girl’s and men’s, omen’s, trim maintainence, process in ork hudhv - years 5-7 be have experience. Faxresumeto: Individual Must travel. should to vendors. willing communicate to skills, with ability follow-up and design, organiza- and tional in sweater well-developed and a cut-and- sew background have creative/technical must strong Qualified Men’s candidate Nautica Company. our Jeans in able avail- opportunity Immediate fe eeosbnft package benefits generous a offer e s aeSaeadmr.W have We more. and Spade Kate an , est of Headquarters US the are e Sweater Designer (212) 632-4322EOEM/F ENTERPRISES, INC. Public Relations Senior Knits/ Patternmaker to: joblisthr@ Parsippany, NJ07054 Production 801 JeffersonRoad Safilo USA Fax: 973-560-1592 Associate 631-549-5240 EOE 212-564-6791 y ahoo.com y y s s f / . 23 WWD, MONDAY, MARCH 10, 2003 — S. Gray Maycumber Gray S. — Jenkins, who was born in Services will be held Tuesday He is survived by three sons, w - .** y Chinese mills (the latter of which became the nemesis of the U.S. industry that he covered) consult- ed with him. London and came to the U.S. when he was eight, was the son of a vaudeville His performer. fa- ther, Nathan, was a headliner in major theaters in London. Harry himself had a brief show-business career before his army service, singing on a New radio York sta- tion and having a few small parts in silent movies, which were then filmed in Brooklyn, once a major movie-producing center. at Delaware Veterans Memorial Cemetery in Bear at 2:30 p.m. Arthur of Collingswood, N.J., Richard of Atlanta and Robert of Bear; six grandchildren, and five great-grandchildren. ahoo.com y MARKETING AGENT awards/articles in WWD/trade Can do it all. 25 years Men’s, Women’s & Jr.’s 516-297-2000 work week, no benfits required. ***APPAREL EMPLOYERS *** plateaus. Successful, achiever, a CHILDRENSWEAR SALES PRO childrenswearmaven@ USA MAJORS. Call (516) 510-7331 Seeking showroom position. 3 day 011-91-11-26466598 [email protected] Leading Export House inof New Delhi, several India national since awardsgarments 1969, for winners & excellence in accessories,commission exports is of basis looking fashion to forOur build infrastructure Marketing up is Agents business availableness. on in to Those cater the having to long U.S.A. anyfashion houses, please Fax or E-mail particulars to: experience market. volume and of contacts busi- with leading Co. sales from zero to half billion $$. Do you need exp’d DESIGNERS, PRODUC **CALL 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agc RETAIL EXPERT mags. Refs., CEO’s, Pres’., GMM’s of Very well connected exec. seeks to help drive est’d accessory/apparel Co. to ne "brand builder", innovator, team player. Increased major well known accessory Industry TION, ACCOUNTING, TECHNICAL etc. staff? . Y w w , y .com y In fact, Jenkins was known in He was so closely associated In his early DNR days, the Jenkins was Jenkins the in known industryas Goods.” Gray “Mr. the industry Gray as Goods.” “Mr. A common saying whenever there was price bargaining be- tween mills was, “If like you don’t my price, buy it from Jenkins.” with the gray goods market that even Egyptian, European and Futures in gray goods Futures were traded years. widely for many gray goods industry was mostly located on Worth New York’s Street, and Jenkins had a regular routine of going from office to of- fice checking on sales and prices. Fax: 212-689-3890 HOSIERY Jeff Friedman 212-768-7856 SALESPERSON Sales Executive Please fax a resume or note to: enthusiastic, Department edge of women’s hosiery a plus. Please email resume: professional. Strong people Travel approx. 30%. Knowl- Please fax resume to: 212-921-1876 E-mail: [email protected] SALES EXECUTIVE skills, keen sense of fashion, ill pay high commission. Fax resume: store/Specialty chain focused tenacious follow-up required. New York City based dynamic [email protected] / chain/discount stores and private Intimate Apparel Sales Pro Intimate Apparel Sales Email: k.e@smallbusinessstrateg EXCITING OPPORTUNITY (323)265-3286; Email: [email protected] labeling in NY, Midwest & Northeast. off shore mill. Pls fax res to 212-239-0181 Great American sportswear co.strong, seeks aggressive, a person experienced with sales- a followingtops for jr’s, kids and plus sizes. in cut and se Bra Co. seeks an exp’d., self motivated individual with a background in brand & private label. Good computer skills & travel involved. Send resume to Lunaire: Bare Elegance seeksin sales intimate reps w/ apparelw exp & has connection W Sales $100-150K+++.in JR. CurrentPrivate denim label exp. Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agc selling or to branded. dept. 1385 stores. B’way Hip Soho Accessoriesbright, Co motivated is indivcommunication seeking skills with & a excellent lotsResp of include energy! reaching/prospectingcustomers, ne maintaing existing customer base &Sales acting Rep. asand Must be overall be ablea to highly East work organized Coast underMinimum 2 years sales exp necessary. young pressure in & creative environment. Men’s fullneed fashion of sweater experiencedestablished customers. maker salesperson with in Textile Sales Agcy lookinggressive for Jr. very ag- Domestic Salesperson to Mfgnotch cover market. lines N which Westock incl. goods, import have novelty heat top transfer prints & a / x d . Harry Jenkins, for- R . y . y y y : 212-387-8343 Jenkins’ byline appeared in Textile gray goods, unfinished y Obituary NEW YORK — mer gray goods editor of DNR, WWD’s sister publication, died at his home in March 5 of a stroke was 88. Del. He Bear, DNR and sometimes other Fair- child publications for nearly 56 years. He joined the company as a textile reporter in 1945, after serving as a paratrooper in World II in North Africa. He retired War in 1979 but continued to write his gray goods column at least once a week until April 30, 2001. fabrics straight from the loom, were a major commodity for many years, and were listed in the na- tional index along with cotton and grain prices as an indicator of the country’s financial Jenkins’ gray goods column in health. DNR was the bible for buyers for apparel and home furnishings companies, as well as speculators. Harry Jenkins, Longtime DNR Textile Editor Textile DNR Longtime Jenkins, Harry sweaters. Follow timelines SYSTEMS designer w/ minimum 2 years Sourcing & etc. Microsoft Office & Outlook Team-oriented atmosphere! Please fax resume to: Diane @ (212) 391-1049 212-768-3588 Attn: Christine Fax resume/salar Please fax resume to 646-366-0699 Spec Tech Asst. to $40K. Western specing garments,pre-production, Please fax resume to 212-239-2766 SALES ASSISTANT holesale. Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Agc Production Manager ith excellent communication skills. SUPPORT/TRAINER Excel computer. Call 973-564-9236 Agc Suffolk Co. near Nassau Co. LI. Exp. FULL FASHION SWEATERS SALES ASSISTANT TECHNICAL DESIGNE required. exp. in FF to manage all technicalgrading, issues, fittings, Technical Designer to $50K Chinese High-end sweater importertime seeks tech full- English bilingual. Currenttings, exp. specs, intion of garment and fabrics. Midtown. flat fit- sketching,Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agc construc- Technical Designer to $60K. Current exp. in full fashion sweaters + cut & Sewn knits. Specing. 1411 Broadway. Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agc W Need Sourcing &to Production work Manager w/ the programsican in Latin countries. Amer- Business, Must Economics haveEnglish, or Spanish degree related &ing. Portuguese in field. speak- Limited travelexp. in the Apparel Industry. req’d. Min 3 years Manufacturing company seeks individ- ual with apparelto industry help background on train andexcellent current support communication employees abilitiesgood and analytical systems. skills.and benefits package. Excellent salary Must have Major textileoriented Sales Assistant company fordepartment. sportswear seeks Liaison betweensales mill detail and force,follow-up heavy onsales customer all order orders contact, reports.organized, and detail Person oriented, maintain a shouldw team be player Three yrs. experience in sameindustry. or Candidate relate must beliterate computer and fluentresume for immediate consideration to in Korean. Pls. fa NYC Ladie’s Appareldetail Company seeks individual oriented, with 1-2Must yrs computer showroom exp. good be communication literate skills,and good follow up. Great Benefits. organized good at multi-tasking, Sales $ Open. Current exp. in missy blouses $14 Wholesale. Or missy dress- es $25-$30 Wholesale. Or Jr. $9-$16 . y 212-921-9038 As a result, McMillion claimed, Badillo said he expects to see lot “A of elements of a re- MBG Information Services. “That relative stability has held, but now firms are operating at such low levels of capacity utilization and facing weak growth in con- sumer demand and intense im- port pressures, both on prices and on volume.” companies will be forced to shut down more capacity this year, which will lead to further job cuts. McMillion said there is a “glut of overcapacity” worldwide and prices are so low that domestic producers will have an increas- ingly difficult time surviving. more cutbacks, although a short war with Iraq could accelerate a quicker consumer-spending re- bound. bound are in place,” said Badillo. “Companies have already cut back on jobs and streamlined, and the profit situation is in bet- ter shape.” Fax resume to 212-239-2766 Sales Assistant SALES ASSISTANT ith Account Executive on maintain- ing accounts. Must be detail oriented and have good communication skills. Excellent computer skills necessary. Sale $ Open. Current exp. in yg. mens/mens casual athletic or urban sportswear. Must hang w/ Iceberg, Nautica, Sean Jean, Nike, ETC. Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agc Entry level position available to work w Est’d. ladies’ sportswearmotivated, capable mfr. & seeksto exp’d. individual assist a ourare sales staff. largely Responsibilities clericalpossibilities in with sales advancement strong in organizational time. & Requires skills communication withFax resume to: computer literacy a must. IONIST

Great Stuff 914-723-0626

Fax resume to 212-239-2766 RECEPT “Last year was a stabilizing Meanwhile, the textile indus- “At the “At same time, we are He said the department store e are a contemporary womens ell organized individual to manage bility to sell, manage staff, and mer- isual skills. Located in charming RETAIL MANAGER/SALES day toResponsibilities daysupplies and include administrativeMust routing duties. telephone haveand front desk appearance. ordering calls. excellent phone manner chandise. Must posses creative downtown Westchesterevening hours. Village.and competitive salary. Fax resume to: Benefits, No incentives, W A v Major apparel company isw looking for a boutique lookingManagement forcontemporary someone experience fashion with environment. in a year and a consolidating year, after very heavy losses in the two previous years,” said Charles W. McMillion, chief economist of try reduced its payrolls by anoth- er 2,000 seasonally adjusted jobs last month to employ 417,000 workers. The apparel industry also reduced its payrolls in February by 1,000 to employ 503,000 workers. Compared with February 2002, the textile indus- try employed 24,000 fewer people and the apparel sector employed 28,000 fewer workers. stores, so this is a mixed story,” seeing conventional department mixed a is stores this consolidate and close so stores, Badillo said. employment numbers include dis- count store employment, which is is occurring. where the growth Continued from page 2 retail sector.” see that in the Sector Job Losses Continue Losses Job Sector 2003. ated, por Incor otton C © ated. por Incor Cotton f o k ademar r k/T Mar ice v Ser egistered R ® ERS. T IMPOR ND A DUCERS O R P ON TT CO S ’ AMERICA

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