Corina Chirileasa RomaniaBucharestBeyond.com , 2018 2019 : Bucharest & Beyond 2019 Essentials version Romania: Bucharest & Beyond

Bucharest landmarks & Centennial sights Main cities & regions This is a selection of content from the book

Including special chapter: 2019 Romania: Bucharest & Beyond

You can buy the full book at RomaniaBucharestBeyond.com #PositiveRomania Charming villages, castles & adventure tourism Bucharest, 2018 RomaniaBucharestBeyond.com Welcome letter

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Published by City Compass Media Partners City Compass Media/Business Insider SRL. Andrei Chirileasa, Corina Chirileasa, More than a travel guide... Bucharest, November 2018 Grégoire Vigroux, Volker Moser

CITY COMPASS ROMANIA: Editors of this guide This is not (just) a travel guide. It’s not just Insider Awards series was born in 2018 — you can BUCHAREST & BEYOND, 2019 Corina Chirileasa [email protected] read all about it and the winners of this first edition E about the places we recommend you to visit, By Chirileasa Corina Simona Fodor [email protected] on page 166. Over 20 partners joined this cause in its nor just about the things we encourage you incipient year and we’re committed to making it even ISBN: 978-973-0-28118-7 Proofreading to try in Romania. It’s also about discovering bigger and better for 2019. Giles Eldridge this country and its people through their Apart from our regular recommendations from all 2,000 copies (printed edition) & e-book around Romania (which we update every year when www.romaniabucharestbeyond.com Contributors past and their present. we publish new editions of this book), we’ve also Bogdan Popa, Floriana Scânteie, Ioana Enache, Irina chosen several charming villages and several castles Chirileasa, Marlena Grzeda, Matt Sampalean, Oana Through the stories in this book, and with each of the to feature in this edition. You can get inspired in our Pascu, Peninah Zilberman, Ruxandra Stan, Simona yearly editions we publish, you’ll know more and more #PositiveRomania chapter on page 56. Avram, Thorsten Kirschner, Volker Moser about Romania. I hope this book will be a good reading companion This book will offer a balanced combination of on your strolls, travels, flights and on your busy or Design & layout carefully curated highlights about main regions, cities, off days, in Romania or elsewhere. We’ve kept its PQB Digital Business Communication resorts and practical and updated listings for places practical format, upgraded the design here and there, [email protected] around Romania and its capital Bucharest. and tried to be even more brief and practical to fit into Photos The launch of this 11th edition of our guide this hectic world. Adobe Stock, Kathrin Weident, Shutterstock coincides with an important celebration for Romania: I do recommend you also check Romania-Insider.com 100 years since its Great Union in 1918. A perfect time throughout the year, as we’re relaunching the site and Advertising sales to look back and understand how Romania came to be adding more valuable content and new columns there. Irina Chirileasa and what people shaped its last century. Topping it You can always reach out to me directly for ideas or Founders of City Compass Group [email protected] up with a list of places to visit to soak in the history. just feedback. Volker Moser, Christian Pauls, Cristian Bizău Check the dedicated Centennial chapter at page 45 to Enjoy Romania! Administrative support discover all these. City Compass Tours & Events Partners Ruxandra Stan We’re more than ever dedicated to showing a Thorsten Kirschner, Volker Moser [email protected] positive side of Romania. We all need positive models, CORINA CHIRILEASA now more than ever. While we do cover everyday Editor of this guide & Managing Parter City Compass Intercultural Partners Printing politics, business and society on our flagship media City Compass Media Volker Moser, Christian Pauls Smart Print Romania-Insider.com, with both the good and the bad [email protected] happening nowadays, we also want to highlight more the things which inspire. This is how the Romania

 City Compass — Tours & Events What's inside this guide A61 Buzești St., Bl. A6, Sc. A, DISCLAIMER In this book, you will find recommendations in different categories, most 4th Fl., Apt. 23, Bucharest Unless otherwise stated, all material that is contained within this publication, provided by Business Insider SRL, shall not be reproduced in of which are chosen independently by our editorial team — the lower T+40734 611 223 whole or in part, without specific written permission. Business Insider SRL offers this guide as a publication for entertainment purposes only and format to the right. These are always listed in alphabetical order. Wwww.citycompassevents.ro takes no responsibility for the accuracy of the data or information within its pages. A good faith effort has been made to present the information There are also premium listings, which are promoted on behalf of contained within this book accurately, however no liability is accepted for any inclusions, exclusions, advice given, or for omissions from the advertisers — the top format to the right. They appear before the editorial publication. While Business Insider SRL exercises editorial control for contributions, it takes no responsibility for the actual content provided Romania-Insider.com by its outside contributors, and recognizes that they are solely responsible for the content they provided. In addition, any information from any ones and have a colored background. A outside contributor does not necessarily reflect the ideas and opinions of Business Insider SRL. Due to the nature of the information business, The texts in this guide are editorial stories. Advertising formats 61 Buzești St., Bl. A6, Sc. A, contact information may change regularly and it is therefore recommended that the respective websites listed, as well as www.citycompass.ro include advertorials (which are marked as such), as well as full page, half 4th Fl., Apt. 23, Bucharest are consulted for more recent information and updates for listings. Business Insider SRL does not take any responsibility for the content of links page, third page and stripe ads, or ads on covers two and three. T+40722 206 413 published within its pages as Business Insider SRL has no control over the dynamic nature of those sites and their content. Wwww.romania-insider.com Table of contents

Table of contents 6 What’s inside the full guide centennial special discover romania District 1 70–71

District 2 8 Buzău

10 District 6 District 3 12 Brașov bucharest District 5 14 More mountain resorts District 4 practical handbook Map of Bucharest 16 Cluj-Napoca neighborhoods 17 Alba Iulia 68 Centennial sights in Bucharest 72 Old Town listings 18 89–92 20 Sighișoara 79 & Băneasa listings 21 & Bucovina 82 Transport essentials 23 Maramureș 46 Romania Centennial Timeline 86 House & home tips 24 Delta 48 The Great Union story 88 Shopping options 26 Dobrogea & Seaside 49 The people who shaped Romania Bucharest landmarks 28 Near Bucharest 52 Centennial places in Romania Architectural icons, churches, museums 29 Romania listings and parks not to miss in the capital. bucharest 93 practical listings positive romania 166 Carefully selected recommendations of places to check, things to do, useful 59 contacts in Bucharest:

Eating & Drinking Shopping 56 Charming Hotels Legal & business Romanian villages Transport House & home Romania Insider Awards 63 Concerts & cultural Healthcare Family & children Personal care Fun & entertainment Uncovering #PositiveRomania & the events winners of the 2018 edition. Education Emergency numbers 64 Adventure tourism Culture Castles to visit this year 164 Alphabetical table of contents 7 City Compass Table of contents 8

Essentials about Romania

Local time: Romanian time is GMT +2. Summertime Ethnicity: 89% , 6.5% Hungarians, 3.2% Discover starts on the last Sunday in March (03:00 becomes Roma, 0.3% others. 04:00), and wintertime on the last Sunday in October Religion: majority – Christian Orthodox, a small (04:00 becomes 03:00). minority of Roman Catholics and Greek Catholics. Pronunciation & special signs: we use the following Romania Climate: temperate – cold, cloudy winters with frequent special signs (diacritics) in our guide: snow and fog; sunny & hot summers with frequent ʡʡ Ț/ț is pronounced TS like ‘ts’ in ‘skits’ showers and thunderstorms. ʡʡ Ș/ș is pronounced SH like ‘shoe’ Lowest point: – 0 meters. Highest point: ʡʡ Ă/ă, Â/â and Î/î are difficult, but not impossible, Mount Moldoveanu – 2,544 meters. For journeys to Romania’s main for most foreigners to master, and they eventually Natural resources: petroleum, timber, gas, coal, iron do. They sort of sound like ‘uh’ but we recommend ore, gold, silver, salt, arable land, hydropower. regions and cities, a selection of that you just listen very closely as a Romanian Natural hazards: earthquakes, landslides, floods. pronounces them, and then practice thousands of highlights and recommendations. Form of organization: Republic, with a President and times. Seriously! a Prime Minister who runs the Government. It has a Conversions: Romania used the metric system. Parliament with two Chambers. 1 m = 3.3 ft = 1.1 yd = 39.4 inches Membership: EU since 2007, NATO since 2004. 1 km = 0.62 miles 1 kg = 2.2 lb = 35.3 oz Currency: the Leu – symbol: RON. The Leu is a 8 Buzău 20 Sighișoara 1 L = 0.26 US gallons controlled floating currency: exchange rates against 10 Sinaia 21 Moldova & Bucovina the EUR, USD and other currencies are set daily by the Location: Central and Eastern , bordered by country’s Central Bank (BNR). (W), (S), (NE), the Republic 12 Brașov 23 Maramureș of Moldova (E), Serbia (SW) and the Black Sea (SE). Gross Domestic Product: € 187.5 bln (in 2017). 14 More mountain resorts 24 Romania has 225 km of coastline. Unemployment rate: 4,5% in June 2018. 16 Cluj-Napoca 26 Dobrogea & Black Sea Capital city: Bucharest. Other major cities: Iași, Phone prefix: +40; Internet domain: .ro. Timișoara, Cluj-Napoca, Constanţa 17 Alba Iulia 28 Near Bucharest Flag: three equal vertical bands; blue, yellow, red. Regions of Romania: , , Moldova, 18 Sibiu 29 Recommended listings Language: the official language is Romanian. Dobrogea. 41 counties. National holiday: December 1, celebrating Unification Day Population: 19.5 mln in January 2018, 2.1 mln in Bucharest (National Statistics Institute – NSI).

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Romania-Insider.com/Newsletters Discover Romania: Buzău

9 City Compass Discover Romania: Buzău 10

Gas from 3,000 meters underground pushes water and clay to the surface. The area is full of small cones of mud, which look like volcanoes. The Muddy Volcanoes (Vulcanii Noroioși), a spectacular moon-like landscape, is one of the most popular tourist attractions Buzău in Buzău County. Follow the signs to “Muddyland” instead of going where the Buzău county, just 100 kilometers North of Bucharest, vast majority of tourists go. There, you will find much bigger volcanoes. offers breathtaking mountains, wild forests and unique natural phenomena. It is said to have been the cradle of Christianity in Romania, and it is definitely one of Gura Țeghii, the area of Lake Siriu, Romania’s best wine regions. Pictured here is Lake Siriu. Chiojdu or Bisoca, with the lakes, rivers and valleys of Buzău County allow for The sparsely populated forests, hills and mountains of several interesting water sport activities. The Buzău River, which has its source at Buzău are perfect for sport and adventure activities: Lake Siriu, is one of the best places for mountain biking, rafting, canyoning or paragliding. rafting in Romania. Canyoning can be done in Bâsca Mare near the village of Gura Țeghii. Paragliding courses are also available and offer spectacular flights over the Muddy Volcanoes.

The city of Buzău is the capital of Buzău County Nowadays, it has faded: tourists mostly come to swim to be discovered, for example the 30 km Muddy Volcanoes HOW TO GET THERE and makes a convenient starting point, but one in its salty waters on summer weekends. It is a good mountain bike trail (starting from Berca). Access to Buzău is fairly easy, compared should focus on traditional villages, monasteries and starting point to discover the Dealu Mare (Big Hill) Buzău County is mainly a one-day or weekend to the Valley. The closest archaeological sites. Rural tourism and off the beaten wine region. destination in the summertime. Spring and autumn, destinations can be reached in one and a tracks are predominant. Good maps or official trails are however, offer very good conditions for leisure activities. half to two hours’ drive from Bucharest. unavailable, so a local guide and good preparation in The cave churches and settlements of Buzău are The winter — completely free of tourists — creates car DN 2 —Urziceni—Buzău (c. advance are recommended. Information signs are rare no less than the cradle of Christianity on Romanian an enchanting environment in the sub-Carpathian 110 km); Alternatively: Bucharest–Ploiești and the same goes for restaurants. Rural guesthouses territory — a mystical place full of legends and a Mountains. Despite the lack of ski-lifts, a lot of activities Highway—DN 1B—Urlați–Buzău (c. 120 — offering a range of standards — can be found across cultural and historical treasure amidst a breathtaking can be enjoyed, including sledging, walks through the km): this route is much more attractive the whole county. landscape. More than 15 cave settlements are spread snow and truffle hunting.Truffles can be found in Buzău’s as it passes through the Dealu Mare wine over more than three square kilometers: the region is forests between June and January. region. From Brașov: car, DN 10 Prejmer— Berca area at the entrance of Buzău Valley is a perfect nicknamed the Athos of Romania. Some caves are old Întorsura Buzăului—Lake Siriu (80 km)— place for sightseeing or to hike or bike into the hills of geological forms, others are carved into the rock. Signs Dealu Mare, also nicknamed the Tuscany of Romania, Buzău (180 km). its muddy volcanoes, its salt mountains, the Meledic of the first settlement in this area date back to the is one of the most beautiful wine-growing districts in the The Brașov–Buzău route is one of the Plateau, Lake Mocearu or the “Living Fires.” The Berca Iron and Bronze Ages. Until the 19th century, hermits country. It is situated on the same latitude as Northern most beautiful Trans-Carpathian routes. village is also known for culinary reasons. It is home of and monks used these caves as places to live and pray. . Places to visit: the stone church and open-air subway from the North Railway Station; the famous Pleșcoi sausage, a traditional spicy sheep Access: DN 10 to Pătârlagele–Colți–Aluniș. There is no sculpture camp at Năeni (with a spectacular panoramic check the Transport section in this book. sausage — famous all around Romania. You can buy direct access by car — a 4–6 hour walking tour with a view) and the vineyards at Pietroasele, Fințești, and them in small shops in the whole village. local guide is highly recommended. Săhăteni. Access: Dealu Mare extends around 60 km north of the DN 1B between Ploiești and Buzău. The best way to Sărata Monteoru, nicknamed Little , was Bike tourism: Besides the 140 km Dealu Mare cycling find it is to leave the main road and take one of the several once a famous spa with visitors from all over Europe. route, several one-day mountain bike trails are waiting small parallel roads that lead through the vineyards. Discover Romania: Sinaia

11 City Compass Discover Romania: Sinaia 12

produce Rhein Champagne, which has been made in Romania since 1889. They also have a restaurant and a small wine shop where you can buy award-winning Romanian wines. Weather In Sinaia it rains often: take a raincoat and proper shoes. The showers are short, so don’t give up the plan for the entire day if it rains in the morning. Carry warm clothes with you at all times — even if it’s 38 degrees Celsius in Bucharest. It can still get very cold in Sinaia, especially if it rains or if Bolboci lake — pictured here, you’re on top of the mountain. partially — is just 8 kilometers away from Sinaia. Nicknamed the Sea Sports Sinaia of , the lake was Skiing, snowboarding and paragliding are also good options created artificially on the Ialomița in the winter. The view at Cota 2000 — when the sky is clear river, behind the Bolboci dam. — is unbeatable and will fill you with good energy and peace. Sinaia is a must-see city in The cable car up the mountain makes two stops: one at 1,400 m, and the next at 2,000 m. There is also a gondola Romania for its unmatched lift from 1,400 m to 2,000 m. The view on top is stunning. Between May and September, you can enjoy a long or a short history. It is the former summer hike and from December to April or sometimes as late as residence of the Royal Family. May, you can go skiing. It is charming, full of history, with impressive architecture HOW TO GET THERE FROM BUCHAREST by famous Romanian and car via the Bucharest–Ploiești highway, or via the DN1, along Prahova Valley. The only rush hours are European architects and it has Friday afternoon to Sinaia and Sunday afternoon on great landscapes. the way back to Bucharest subway from the North Railway Station — check the Transport section in this book.

How long should you stay? Cumpătu neighborhood — a residential, quiet and A trip to Sinana should last 3 days to a week: breathe elegant area on the opposite mountain from the city At the beginning of the 20th century, Sinaia fresh air, enjoy the beautiful landscape, visit museums, center. The house was recently renovated: entry tickets was the place to be: an elegant, cultural go hiking, go to the park, visit the casino building, swim and audio guides are available. and lively city, a special retreat for powerful in one of the two local pools, get a massage, have a The visit is rich in information and also very Romanian and foreign families, and a year- nice dinner, take a walk. Then schedule day trips to the personal: you are surrounded by Enescu’s music all the round tourist attraction. The first King Babele rocks, the Rhein cellars in nearby , or the way through. of Romania, Carol I, fell in love with the cities of Brașov, Sighișoara or Bran. surroundings and established his summer Up in the mountains, there is also the Stâna Regală residence there. He built Peleș castle. Take What to see cabin and restaurant. It is a hard drive, almost an hour the time to visit it, together with Pelișor The main park in Sinaia is well maintained and on a poor road. Once there, don’t miss the view from castle, including their interiors. Peleș is one provides a great experience for adults and kids as well Franz Iosif Stone — if the sky is clear, you should be able of the best preserved castles in Europe and has as for couples looking for a romantic escapade. to see the entire Prahova Valley — a breathtaking view. a mix of eclectic styles from all over the world. More about it and other castles on page 59. The house of famous Romanian composer George A short drive north of Sinaia brings you to the Rhein Enescu is a little-known tourist spot, located in the Wine Cellar in Azuga, where you can see how they Discover Romania: Brașov

13 City Compass Discover Romania: Brașov 14

A recommended natural site is the National Park of It is probably one of the best known mountain The Old Town, framed by the steep slopes of a King’s Rock (Piatra Craiului), including the highest surrounding valley, also hosts the 65-meter-high peak — the 2,244 meter Piscul Baciului. cities in the country. Located in central Romania, tower of the so-called Black Church, which got it is close to the picturesque Prahova Valley, and a its name after a devastating fire swept across The fortified church of Prejmer is about 15 the town in the 17th century, leaving it with soot- kilometers outside of Brașov. The village was sacked tourist destination all year long. blackened walls. more than 50 times over the centuries, but the holy It is the largest Gothic church in Romania, built fortress resisted. In 1999, UNESCO put it on their in the 14th century. It became mostly Baroque after world heritage list. All the former Saxon villages in this several renovations in the interior. It currently region have their own fortified church, as you will see hosts a large collection of Turkish carpets. if you drive through the country; in contrast, peasant Through the Șchei gate, some 300 meters behind fortresses are a rarity. the Black Church, is the traditional Romanian Brașov district. Until the 17th century, Romanians HOW TO GET THERE FROM BUCHAREST were not allowed to buy property within the city car via Ploiești (either through DN1A, or the A3 walls — a privilege of the Saxon population. highway, then DN1A) — a three-hour ride or longer Thus, Romanians settled in areas outside the at weekends, as you have to go through the Prahova fortifications, such as the Șchei District, which is Valley and its resorts crippled by traffic jams during one of the oldest. Here, the houses are smaller, weekends and holidays; to avoid it, drive through huddled together, and the streets are narrower. Ploiești towards Cheia to reach Brașov directly subway also through Prahova Valley — check the Transport section of this guide for railway information.

Founded by Teutonic knights in the 13th century, a mount called Pinnacle (Tâmpa) — 955 meters high. Near Brașov Brașov was predominantly inhabited by Transylvanian To get there, take the cable car which leaves from the Leaving town, a forest road leads through the woods Saxons until the 18th century. This heritage gives the station on Aleea Brediceanu — also the starting point to the Poiana Brașov ski resort, 12 kilometers outside city its distinctively German feel. of a marked footpath up to the top. the city. It is accessible by car via Stejărișului St. or from the small town of Râșnov. Eight ski-slopes are The Old Town lies in the heart of the city, with its available, ranging from 300 meters to three kilometers fan-shaped Town Hall Square (Piața Sfatului), lined in length. with red-roofed merchant houses and Town Hall in the middle. The building dates back to 1420 and for Bran Castle, in the village of Bran, is often centuries hosted the Saxon town council. The Town connected to Count Dracula. The castle was built by Hall is home to the city’s tourist office. the Brașovians to control a toll collection point. There are stories that Vlad Țepeș (Vlad the Impaler), the Downtown, a walk up the pedestrian Republicii historical Wallachian prince who inspired the Dracula Boulevard reveals shop after shop, and numerous legend, at least in part, stayed a night or two here. The cafés and restaurants. Hard to miss from the center castle lies at the edge of the Bucegi Massif mountain is the town’s name in Hollywood-style lettering on range. More about Romanian castles on page 59. Romania centennial timeline

15 City Compass Romania centennial timeline 16 Centennial

The leading English-language media Special publisher for Romania. Independent, reliable, practical As Romania celebrates 100 years since the Great content since 2008. Union of 1918, let’s dive into its history

OUR PROJECTS ʡʡ Timeline of most memorable events since 1918 ʡʡ The Great Union story ʡʡ The people who shaped Romania in the last 100 years Our flagship media, since 2010: Uncovering #PositiveRomania ʡʡ Centennial places around Romania the most read portal for news, and rewarding game-changers in features and services in English Romania & abroad. dedicated to Romania. Romania-Insider.com/Awards

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1941–1944 Antonescu, the prime minister and leader of Romania the state. Antonescu wanted to sign the truce The Second World War only after the front had stabilized and Hitler 1947 After the occupied the territories of , had given his approval. After Antonescu’s Centennial northern Bucovina and the Land of Herța in June 1940, and Hungary, arrest, Romania signed the truce with the Abdication of King Michael I the northeastern part of Transylvania, in August of the same year, United Nations and exited the alliance with the King Michael I signed his abdication on December Timeline Romania entered the Second World War in June 1941, on the side of powers of the Axis. 30, 1947, at a time when the country was led by Germany and against the Soviet Union, aiming to reunify its territory. Through the armistice of September 1944, the communist government of Petru Groza. The Bessarabia and northern Bucovina were liberated in July 1941, and in and later, the Peace of 1946– abdication came after the falsified November 1946 October of the same year the Romanian army reached . 1947, Romania had to accept tough political, elections, where the National Democrat Bloc, In April 1944, during the talks held in Stockholm, the Soviets economic and military conditions but the made up of the Communist Party and other several proposed a truce to Romania which included going back to the 1940 northeastern part of Transylvania was returned satellite parties, was declared a winner. King frontier, and having Transylvania or “most of it” back. Romania to the country. Michael later explained that he was forced to sign rejected the conditions of the truce and by August 1944 the Soviet the abdication under threat that over 1,000 youth, troops broke the Romanian–German front in Moldova. On August 23, mostly students, who had been detained after a 1944, King Michael I ordered the dismissal and arrest of marshal Ion November 1945 demonstration in favor of the king, 1947–1989 would be executed. 1918 Communism The Great Union After the abdication of King Michael I, the Popular Republic of Romania was declared. The Great Union of 1918 was the process that saw all the provinces inhabited Under the sphere of influence of the Soviet Union, the country moved towards a by Romanians join the Romanian kingdom of the time. As such, Bessarabia, centralized economy and the private enterprises were nationalized. Its political, Bucovina, Banat, Crișana, Maramureș and Transylvania joined the kingdom cultural and religious leaders were prosecuted and sent to political prison, where they made up of Țara Românească and Moldova. The latter two came together under were subjected to forced labor, starved and tortured. Only students coming from of the rule of prince Alexandru Ioan Cuza in the 1859 union. Another important families of “healthy origins”, namely workers and peasants, could attend university moment prior to the 1918 Union was the gaining of the independence from in the 1950s. The period of brief relaxation and openness that began starting with the the , following the 1877–1878 Russo–Turkish War. 1960s ended after a visit dictator Nicolae Ceaușescu made in China and in North Korea. What followed was one of the darkest periods in the country’s history as the dictator’s personality cult intensified and the standard of living dropped significantly when he 1916–1918 decided to erase the country’s foreign debt. The First World War After two years of neutrality, Romania entered the First World War in 1916, on the side of the Entente made up of , Great 1989 Britain, and , hoping to get united with Transylvania, Banat, and Bucovina. After a series of victories in Transylvania, the The Revolution of 1989 Romanian army suffered a series of serious defeats in the fall of The Romanian Revolution of 1989 encompasses a series of protests, 1916, forcing the state authorities to retreat in Iași, as a large part street fights and demonstrations that took place in the country of the national territory, including the capital, was occupied. between December 16 and December 25, 1989. It ended with the In May 1918, Romania signed the treaty known as the Peace overthrowing of dictator Nicolae Ceaușescu, who was executed, of Bucharest with the and Austro-Hungary. alongside his wife, on December 25. The revolution started in Among other provisions, Romania was forced to cede Timișoara as a response to the government’s attempt to evacuate the Southern Dobrogea, known as Cadrilater, and a pastor László Tőkés, who had made critical comments targeting part of Northern Dobrogea to Bulgaria. At the same the regime in the international media. From Timișoara it time, but outside of the treaty, the Central Powers spread to Bucharest and other cities in the country. More agreed not to oppose the union of Bessarabia with than 1,100 people were killed and 2,200 were injured during Romania. The parliament ratified the treaty but the December 1989 events in Bucharest, Timișoara, and King Ferdinand I did not promulgate it, leaving other Romanian cities. Most people lost their lives or were the door open for the Great Union of 1918. Read injured in the armed confrontations that followed after more about the Union on page 48. Ceaușescu fled Bucharest. Positive Romania: Charming villages

19 City Compass Positive Romania: Charming villages 20

Positive Discover Romania’s Romania charming villages

More reasons to discover authentic Romania and soak in its charm

ʡʡ Charming villages from across Romania ʡʡ Castles and fortresses ʡʡ Annual concerts & cultural events ʡʡ Adventure tourism

Picturesque views, tranquil surroundings taking place for more than twenty years. People flock and the opportunity to explore the local each summer there to listen to a line-up of prominent traditions are the promises of rural tourism international musicians and the accommodation options in the area have developed as a result. As it is in Romania. One can now explore the set close to the Semenic Nature Park, the surrounding villages across the country with easier landscape offers plenty of options for exploring, either access to accommodation and meal on foot or by bike, for which trails have been set up. How to get there: car Gărâna can be accessed from options. Some suggestions of villages Reșița or Slatina Timiș. plane The closest city with an making up the diverse picture of rural airport is Timișoara.

Romania below. Also in Banat is Gârnic, one of the few remaining Czech villages in the area. It is surrounded by green hills and The commune of Ciocănești (to the right), in the good for exploring the area’s amazing landscapes. It is historical region of Bucovina in northern Romania, impresses the visitor with its houses, which bear traditional motifs on the facades. The commune hosts various events, including an egg painting festival, held before Easter, the Tillage Week, and a Trout Festival. Lonely Planet included it on a list of the most colorful destinations in Europe. How to get there: Ciocănești is located in northern Romania. plane Fly to Cluj-Napoca, Târgu-Mureș, or , all of them cities with airports, then drive car.

The village of Gărâna, in western Romania, is the place where the jazz festival of the same name has been 21 City Compass Positive Romania: Charming villages 22

located close to Cheile Nerei National Park, near the A bit further up north from Hoghilag is the village of Danube Gorges, in western Romania. A music festival, Cund, where the rural retreat Valea Verde has been set called Rocker’s Challenge Gârnic, also takes place in up by the German Jonas Schaefer and his wife Ulrike the village. Further down south, towards the border Schaefer when they decided to settle in Romania. with Serbia, is the village of Eibenthal, recognized for How to get there: car Hoghilag is a twenty-minute its theft-free reputation. How to get there: car Gârnic drive from Sighișoara, on the DN14. Follow the county can be reached from Orșova, on the DN57. road DJ151B to Cund.

The village of Biertan, located in the commune of the Another popular rural tourism destination in the area same name, is one of the most important Saxon villages of Brașov is the commune of Moieciu, close to Bran with fortified churches in Transylvania (pictured Castle and a good spot for exploring the beautiful below). It has been on the list of UNESCO World landscapes in between the Bucegi and Piatra Craiului Heritage Sites since 1993. The village, established in mountains. How to get there: car From Brașov, take the the 13th century, was an important agricultural and DN13/E60 to Viscri. The same road leads further north crafts center. Its traditional houses, built in the style of Rășinari (opening picture on the left), the birthplace to Biertan. Moieciu is south of Brașov, on the DN73. the Transylvanian baroque, and the fortified church are of Romanian philosopher and essayist Emil Cioran and and other items. Rîmetea, which also impressed actor poet Octavian Goga. How to get there: car Coming from Jeremy Irons when he visited, sits at the foothills of This village in central Romania shot to fame after Brașov, Sibiel is a two-hour drive on DN1/E68. Rășinari the Piatra Secuiului massif (pictured above), in an area rapper Snoop Dog checked in there online by mistake. is east of Sibiel, on the county road DJ106E. good for trekking. How to get there: car Rîmetea is 53 Bogata, which was first documented in the 13th km north of Alba-Iulia, on the DN1/E81. century, is close to Cluj-Napoca, Mediaș, Sighișoara The region of Maramureș is a must-see when looking and Târgu Mureș. A self-described “best place for to discover the local traditions. The village of Săpânța, In Brașov county, the village of Viscri has seen an chillin’ in Romania”, it can be a departure point for with its Merry Cemetery, is one of the best known in increasing number of tourists after Prince Charles visits to the Ciucaș waterfall or simply a place to stay this northern part of Romania, but the village of Breb bought a property there. The beautiful landscapes and and take in the beautiful landscape. How to get there: can also be a good destination. The old wooden church the old Saxon church (pictured below), included on the car From Cluj-Napoca, take the DN16 to get there. The (pictured above) and the traditional households with UNESCO World Heritage list, are top attractions. In DN13/ E60 connects the village to Brașov. their wooden gates are part of the village’s charm. 2017, Viscri also made it on a Businessinsider.com list Various options for hiking, biking and fishing are of 25 secret European villages everyone should visit in , in eastern Romania’s county, is a available in the area. How to get there: Săpânța is their lifetime. fishermen village (pictured below). It was established located in the north of the country, close to the border by Lipovans at the beginning of the 19th century. The with Ukraine. The closest city with an airport is plane seaside beach at Gura Portiței is located nearby as is just some of the sites to see in Biertan, a village also Satu-Mare. the ancient fortress Argamum. Jurilovca can serve as known for its original remedy for divorce. This entailed a base for exploring the Danube Delta, a biosphere locking the unhappy couple in a tiny prison, where Close to the border between Alba and Cluj counties, reserve and an UNESCO World Natural Heritage site, they would spend six weeks working on their marital Rîmetea stands out with its recently restored, beautiful and tourists can try boat routes in the Razim-Sinoe problems and sharing everything. The Full Moon white houses. The ethnographic museum in the village lake complex. In 2013, Jurilovca was included on the horror film festival takes place here every summer. presents many examples of traditional wear, furniture list of European Destinations of Excellence (EDEN), In the same commune, visitors can also stop in the which focused on Accessible Tourism. village of Richiș, probably the most international in How to get there: car From Bucharest, take the E81 the country: residents of 12 nationalities live in this to get to Jurilovca. 700-inhabitant village.

The entire region of Mărginimea Sibiului is filled with villages that have preserved the habit of continuous shepherding, taking advantage of the Close to the medieval town of Sighișoara, Hoghilag is alpine pastures found there. The cheese and meat known for being the only place in the country where delicacies produced here, including ‘telemea’, ‘urdă’, tuberoses have been grown since the 1960s. A festival and ‘caș’, are famous. In Sibiel (pictured to the right), dedicated to these flowers has been organized in the visitors can see a museum featuring a large collection past years, attracting visitors to the village and wider of icons painted on glass and the 18th century Holy commune of the same name towards the end of July. Trinity Church, also hosting an important collection A fortified evangelical church, first documented in the of wood and glass icons. Visitors can also drop by 15th century, can also be found on site. Bucharest practical handbook: Centennial sights

23 City Compass Bucharest practical handbook: Centennial sights 24

Bucharest Centennial sights in Bucharest practical handbook

Uncover the secrets of the Romanian capital and find your way around this city of contrasts.

68 Centennial sights 79 Pipera & Băneasa 70 Neighborhoods map 82–88 Practical info 72 Old Town 89 Bucharest landmarks

These places in Bucharest bear the marks of fought during the 1916-1918 and 1919 campaigns. history — some of them are well-known, others Two of the adjacent streets were given the names of are tucked away but deserve a visit. They are Marshalls Alexandru Averescu (who had a house built also connected to the Great Union of 1918. precisely near the monument) and Constantin Prezan. The two were the masterminds of the survival and rebirth of the army after 1916. Monument of Infantry This monument on Șoseaua Kiseleff was erected only Ion I.C. Brătianu Statue in 2000, replacing the version which was placed on the On Dacia boulevard, in the park behind the former same spot in 1936 (sculptor: Ion Jalea) and destroyed family house, one may see the monument erected in after the Second World War. 1938 by Croatian sculptor Ivo Meštrović, who created the original equestrian statue of King Carol I. Ion I.C. Arch of Triumph chevron-up Brătianu (1864-1927) was several times Prime-Minister. Built in 1935 by Petre Antonescu (1873-1965), it Maybe his most important mandate was that of 1914- replaced the provisional arches built for the parade of 1918. During those times he oversaw Romania’s tide the returning army in 1918. On the inside of the arch change and involvement in the war with the purpose of one may see the names of the most important battles achieving the union with Transylvania. His diplomatic Bucharest practical handbook: Transport

25 City Compass Bucharest practical handbook: Transport 26

one were names of the fallen military pilots are Transport even nowadays still added. It is located in the Aviatorilor Square. The Monument of the essentials Railroad Heroes Sculpted by Cornel Medrea and Ion Jalea and placed in front of the North Railway Station in 1923, it commemorates the workers of the railroads who managed to take overcrowded trains out of the reach of the enemy and safely transport the army and the civilians. The Last Defender of the Capital This solitary and unknown monument commemorates the soldiers fallen in the ill-fated battle for Bucharest (or the Argeș-Neajlov battle) in November 1916. It was built by Ernest Doneaud in 1921 and it is located in front of Băneasa Airport. Like in other capitals, traffic is an issue in Bucharest. Some routes are clogged all day during working days — Splaiul Independenței, , Piața Unirii, Bălcescu Blvd., Magheru Blvd., Piața Romană and Piața Victoriei. Those who live in the Northern part of the city (Băneasa, Pipera), will see morning and afternoon rush hours in both directions. Pictured above is the Basarab flyover, which helps cross to the Western part of the city.

Airport Alternatively, you can also use the Black Cab, Alpha Bucharest Airport, also called Otopeni (OTP), or Cab, Uber or Taxify apps — check page 110. Black Cab, failures during the Paris conference triggered his formally The Henri Coandă Airport, is located some Alpha Cab and Uber offer airport pickup at a certain withdrawal, but he returned and helped pass the 16 kilometers north of the capital, in the small town hour. You can also rent a car at one of the car rental democratic Constitution of 1923. of Otopeni. It is fairly big, transited by over 11 million offices within the airport: the corridor between people a year. Some of the most popular airlines Departures and Arrivals. The Monument of the serving the airport are WizzAir, , Tarom, The taxi fare from downtown Bucharest to the Sanitary Heroes chevron-up and . It has 2 floors, and includes a airport (or the other way around) should be around Work of the Italian sculptor Raffaello Romanelli, business lounge and a VIP lounge, as well as offering RON 50 (around €12), depending on traffic. Make sure it was erected in honour of the medical corps, VIP ‘meet and greet’ services. The busiest international volunteers and charity sisters who did not only routes are London, Paris, , Istanbul, Amsterdam, took care of the wounded, but also helped during and domestic, Cluj, Timișoara and Iași. the spread of the typhus epidemic in the Moldova Check the HenriApp Port Whenriappport.ro/en region during the refuge of the government, army and civilians. It was built between 1916-1920. It Airport taxis can be seen near the Eroilor Underground Metro At the airport, there is a big taxi area in front of station. Arrivals, with approved taxi companies. There are touch screens in the airport for ordering taxis: you The Monument of the will receive a printed slip with the cab’s identification Heroes of the Air chevron-right number — this is how you know which cab is yours. Built by sculptor Lidia Kotzebue and Iosif Fekete Very often, the taxi area is crowded and somebody else in 1934 and inaugurated in 1935, it is the only might take the cab you ordered. 27 City Compass Bucharest practical handbook: Transport 28

to take a cab with a fare below RON 2 per km, which you cards can be purchased at the ticket counter in the will see written on its door. Domestic Flights Hall, or at STB ticket kiosks in the When going to the airport, the cab driver might try city. Cards must be validated upon boarding the , to convince you to pay them for their trip back to the using the orange machines — place the card near the city, but you should not do this. Passengers usually pay machine until you hear a beep. a 10% tip at the end of the taxi ride, if the service was good. With Uber and Taxify, the app takes the money Streets & traffic directly from the user’s credit card, with an option to Traffic is a problem in Bucharest, and some of the streets add a tip at the end. are also bad, so expect some potholes. Sometimes drivers do not respect traffic lights, nor do they see taxi CAB SIGNAGE anything wrong with driving off-road or parking on  SUBWAY FARES the pavement! Expect to hear a lot of honking while Bucharest cabs carry a lot of signage. Here’s the driving, especially during traffic jams: mornings and 2 trips ron 5 essential to scan for the right information and the end of the work day — especially if you plan to drive LIMITED TRIPS 10 trips ron 20 distinguish between licensed and overpriced cabs. north to south, or reach areas in downtown. The cab company name or logo can be found Many in Romania use the Waze app, thus allowing per day ron 8 on the front door, as is the price per km. Most for a better route planning, and avoiding the traffic licensed cabs run at a tariff of RON 1.7 per km, jams. Google Maps also offers a live view of busy UNLIMITED TRIPS per week ron 25 with RON 17 per hour when stopped. In some areas for Bucharest, as well as for the country’s main rent a parking place outside your building and mark it cases the tariff can go as high as RON 3.5 per km highways. The subway is the preferred alternative, and with your car registration number. per month ron 70 — you should avoid these. The back door lists Bucharest has a fairly good coverage, plus trains run Avoid using someone else’s paid spot as they may on a red background the logo of the Bucharest frequently on main lines during the week. damage your car if you do so a couple of times in a row. City Hall, a four-digit number, and a letters and People tend to get very angry about this in Bucharest. Damage Bureau to obtain repair permits, within 24 numbers code below. These are the cab’s license Drink & drive If someone takes your parking place, you can use the hours of the crash. and registration numbers. The red background Romania has a 0.0 alcohol limit policy, so better not Romanian method: honk your horn until they come also includes the validity date of the cab license. drink and drive. You can order a cab, an Uber car, or and move their car. It is surprisingly effective. If they Public transport The cab’s identification number (indicativ), use a Ride Me Home service from Black Cab. They will do not come, or it happens more than once, lift up their Bucharest public transport is divided into street-level the one you are given when ordering a cab, is send two drivers, one of whom will drive you home in windshield wipers. This will let them know they are in means, and underground transport, each managed by listed on the upper, back lateral sides. your car. the wrong spot! a different company. The cab company’s short, four-digit calling Cars are parked almost everywhere, including on A company called STB (Societatea de Transport number is listed on to the lower, lateral sides Road tax pavements, at pedestrian crossings, at bus stops, București — formerly known as RATB) runs street-level of the car’s trunk, and its regular ten-digit If you are moving to Romania with your car or are even on corners and where “No Parking” signs are clearly transport — , and — and is a numbers below. Each number corresponds to a just driving through, you have to pay the Romanian posted! Sometimes, a driver would park their car great way of getting around. Day buses run from 5 AM different mobile carrier. road tax, which is called Rovinietă. The authorities temporarily on a driving lane, leaving the emergency to 11 PM, when some night buses take over. Tickets will be able to check electronically whether you have lights on. This means they would return soon, most — plastic cards — must be purchased or re-charged bought a Rovinietă or not, as cameras have been likely from a shop. In some Bucharest districts, the beforehand and validated upon boarding at the orange installed at city exits. The tax can be paid for a period authorities tow cars parked in wrong places. Check the device in the bus. They work on trams, buses and Airport buses of seven days (€ 3), thirty days (€ 7), ninety days (€ 13) locations of main car parks on page 110. trolleys. Any transfer to another means of transport There are two express buses available from the airport and one year (€ 28), and can be paid in RON at current needs another validation. to the city. exchange rates. Most gas stations sell the Rovinietă — Accidents Night starts at 11 PM and Express Bus 783 departs round the clock from the try Petrom and Rompetrol. You can also buy it online Romanian law requires the driver of any vehicle most night buses arrive every 40 minutes from 11 PM International Departures Hall at the airport, and the at e-rovinieta.ro/en. To check whether your Rovinietă involved in an accident to stop immediately at the to 1 AM and 3 AM to 4.30 AM; expect longer wait times journey to downtown Bucharest — Unirii Square — is valid, go to this website cnadnr.ro/ro/verificare- scene of the crash, and to find out if anyone is hurt. between 1 AM and 3 AM. The price of a trip is the same takes approximately 40 minutes, sometimes more rovinieta. If someone is injured, they should call 112 right away as during the day, RON 1.3, and all subscriptions for day (even double during rush hours). It departs Monday and try to provide the injured person all reasonable buses work for night buses as well. All the night buses through Friday every 15 minutes and every 20 minutes Parking assistance, including transport to a doctor or hospital, — 25 such lines — have the letter N in front of their during the weekend between 6.00 and 20.00. At night, Parking is one of the biggest issues in Bucharest. Most as well as also report to a police station. For minor number (N101, N102 and so on). it runs every 45 minutes. office buildings and shopping centers have adequately accidents, there is an option available which does not Express Bus 780 goes to the main train station (Gara sized parking lots – check beforehand whether parking involve the police, which is called “constatare amiabilă” Metro de Nord). is available, ask the person you’re meeting. There are or “friendly resolution.” Your insurance company will Metrorex manages the subway network. You can spot The fare is RON 7 for a magnetic card valid for two several public car parks — check the listings section of issue a form that you can use. If the accident resulted the underground metro stations easily as they are trips and a monthly subscription costs RON 80. The this guide. To park your car near your home, you can in only material damages, you must go to a Collision marked with a big letter M sign at the entrance. Metro 29 City Compass Bucharest practical handbook: Transport 30 Rejoignez trains run between 5 AM and 11 PM daily. Access to the station is allowed only after validating your metro card. les lecteurs francophones There are four metro lines in Bucharest, M1, M2, M3, and M4. The most frequently used is the north- south M2. Some of the most crowded metro stations de Roumanie! — especially in the morning and afternoon rush-hours — are Unirii, Universitate, Victoriei, Romană, which are also good meeting places. Also crowded are the ones near office areas, such as Pipera and Aurel Vlaicu stations, and Aviatorilor. www.metrorex.ro/Resurse/Harta/harta2017_iunie.pdf In many stations, the access system is made of glass doors (newly installed), while in some others, to enter, upon validating your card, you have to pass by metal turnstiles (old system). You can buy paper cards from the operator at the metro station or from one of the 35 automatic vending  STREET-LEVEL TRANSPORT FARES machines installed across stations. Some of the big stations downtown allow to use ONE TRIP ron 1.3 contactless cards (credit or debit card) to buy a metro ticket and enter the station. for 1 urban line ron 30 MONTHLY It is not possible to use the STB card on the metro for 2 urban lines ron 35 system. But there is a separate joint STB–Metrorex card SUBSCRIPTIONS which is valid for 60 minutes from the first validation. for all urban lines ron 50

Tourist line valid 1 day ron 8 Red double-deckers carry tourists along the Bucharest OTHER SUBSCRIPTIONS valid 7 days ron 17 City Tour route, several times a day between 10 AM for all urban lines and 10 PM, from spring to fall. The route is 15.4 km valid 15 days ron 25 long and should take 50 minutes, with buses running every 15 minutes. The price of a ticket is RON 25 (the equivalent of € 5.6) for adults and RON 10 (some € 2.2) Highway in the east to go to the coast, the Bucharest– for children up aged between 7 and 14. The transport Ploiești Highway to go north, and the DN1, also to card can be bought on the bus and is valid for 24 h. the north, via Otopeni, which goes to Ploiești and the The most popular Bucharest exits by car are the Sun mountain resorts in the Prahovei Valley. Another exit to the west on A1 Highway towards Pitești is the main road to western Romania, and an alternative route for those heading to Transylvania.

Railways BUCAREST The Romanian railway company CFR (Căile Ferate Române) provides a reliable and often scenic means of transport to destinations outside Bucharest. But trains are rather slow, and for some destinations in Transylvania, the connection to capital Bucharest can Découvrez LePetitJournal.com/Bucarest: reach up to 12 hours! Information in English cfrcalatori. ro, or m.cfrcalatori.ro. Alternatively, several private portraits, chroniques, interviews, railway operators run routes throughout the country, with the similar speed limitations, due to the poor décryptage de la société roumaine, quality of the tracks. infos pratiques, coups de coeur et sorties. ʡʡCheck the listings on page 110. Facebook: LPJBucarest Bucharest practical listings: Eating & drinking

31 City Compass Bucharest practical listings: Eating & drinking 32

Eating & drinking

Bucharest Restaurants They serve steaks and sushi, a Hard Rock Café common combination in South A32 Kiseleff St. (inside Herăstrău AMERICAN, STEAKS & America. Park) T+40212 066 261 BURGERS Ffb.com/hardrockcafebucharest practical Aria Burger The famous restaurant now also bookmark Champions – American A2 Slănic St. serves vegetarian dishes. Sports Bar and Restaurant T+40773 778 860 A90 Calea Wwww.ariaburger.ro La Estancia listings (inside JW Marriott Bucharest Open-kitchen concept, burgers, A4 Herăstrău St. Grand Hotel) wraps and salads. T+40 787 444 604 T+40214 031 917 Wwww.estancia.ro [email protected] Barbizon Steak House Ffb.com/chefnicolaelica A10 Montreal Square (inside Modelier A selection of recommended places & instagram instagr.am/chefnicolaelica Pullman Hotel) A12 Duzilor St. An authentic American sports bar T+40212 021 635 T+40799 630 693 businesses in the capital. located in the famous JW Marriott Ffb.com/modelierbar Bucharest Grand Hotel where Baz Bistro & Lounge They serve tasty burgers. you can follow your favorite A13 Barbu Văcărescu St. game while eating some all-time T+40740 791 193 Osho 94 Eating & drinking 127 Shopping American classics such as JW Wwww.bazbistro.ro A19-21 Primăverii Blvd. Black Angus Burger alongside Ffb.com/bazbistro T+40215 683 031 106 Hotels 134 Legal & business the well selected beverage menu, Wwww.osho-restaurant.ro 110 Transport 146 House & home among fellow sports lovers. Beef Room A12 Doamnei St., Old Town Prime Steaks & Seafood 114 Healthcare 151 Family & children bookmark JW Steakhouse (inside Hilton Garden Inn Hotel) A63-81 Calea Victoriei, B-4 116 Personal care 156 Fun & entertainment A90 Calea 13 Septembrie T+40735 223 355 (inside Radisson Blu hotel) F T 118 Education 158 Sports (inside JW Marriott Bucharest fb.com/beefroom +40213 119 000 Grand Hotel) Business lunches during the week, Wwww.radissonblu.com/en/ 123 Culture & arts 162 Emergency numbers T+40214 031 903 à la carte dinner, Argentinian beef. hotel-bucharest/restaurants [email protected] It comes highly recommended. The star restaurant of the well- Red Angus Steakhouse known JW Marriott Bucharest Burgerbar A56 Franceză St. Grand Hotel, JW Steakhouse A182 Calea Dorobanți T+40756 600 000 is the absolute location for T+40212 339 096 Wwww.redangus.ro the refined meat lovers. The Wwww.burger-bar.ro Ffb.com/RedAngusSteakhouse fine cuts selection is prepared Ffb.com/BurgerBarRomania Tender, juicy steaks and burgers, under the expert supervision highly recommended. of chef Sorin Barbu and served Daniel’s American Pub & by the professional staff of the Restaurant Switch.Eat restaurant, in order to ensure A3 Covaci St., Old Town A34 Horei St. the complete satisfaction of each T+40737 197 710 T+40726 023 881 guest. Ffb.com/danielsamericanpub Wwww.switcheat.ro

Argentine EMTE Vacamuuu A7-9 Șoseaua Nordului A77 Calea A111 Calea Floreasca T+40720 100 400 T+40799 358 585 T+40731 351 135 ABăneasa Shopping City Ffb.com/emterestaurant Wwww.vacamuuu.com T+40 721 100 400 Gourmet burgers, Scandinavian Ffb.com/vacamuuu.bucharest Wwww.restaurant-argentine.ro decor. 33 City Compass Bucharest practical listings: Eating & drinking 34

Vivo Calif (Condimental) a good taste oasis placed on the TAPO Taj Casa di David A60 Calea Floreasca A100 Mărășești Blvd. border between the historical A30 Oltețului St. A127-131 Calea 13 Septembrie A7-9 Șoseaua Nordului T+40787 709 154 T+40752 228 727 center and one of the city’s most T+40747 083 083 T+40748 133 300 T+40212 324 715 Wwww.calif.ro beautiful gardens. Wwww.tapo.ro Wwww.tajrestaurant.ro Wwww.casadidavid.ro White Horse They sell shaorma, kebabs and A4A Călinescu George St. dishes with some interesting Cave de Bucharest Veranda Casa Frumoasă INTERNATIONAL CUISINE Chefs Experience T A A A +40212 312 795 ingredient combinations. 139-143 Mărgelelor St. 5 Clopotarii Vechi St. bookmark 55 Calea Floreasca Wwww.whitehorse.ro T+40746 254 444 T+40733 735 932 Corso Brasserie T+40723 856 916 Kebap Wwww.lacave.ro Wwww.verandacasafrumoasa.ro A4 Nicolae Bălcescu Blvd. Wwww.chefsexperience.ro Zvetto Burger Bar A1 Camil Ressu St. (inside Intercontinental Hotel) A3 – 5 Ion Minulescu St. T+40213 468 100 Ici et Là The Artist T+40213 102 020 Chez Marie Garden T+40728 875 665 Wdristorkebap.com A26-30 Intrarea Odăii, La Plage A147 Calea Victoriei A44 General H. m. Berthelot St. bookmark Wwww.zvetto.ro T+40731 453 608 T+40728 318 871 The Garden T+40314 278 776 Pep & Pepper Wwww.icietla.ro Wwww.theartist.ro A90 Calea 13 Septembrie Wwww.chezmarie.ro CHINESE ASeveral malls in Bucharest (inside JW Marriott Bucharest Wwww.pepandpepper.ro Galli, Rôtisserie Française GREEK Grand Hotel) Chico Chillout Chong Qing Restaurant offering a fixed A6 G-ral Christian Tell St. T+40214 031 919 A10 Tonitza St., Old Town A28 Pache Protopopescu Blvd. number of combination dishes T+40213 138 230 Amvrosia [email protected] T+40733 324 426 T+40731 383 952 with pasta, meat and salad. Wwww.rotisseriegalli.com A11 Drumul Bisericii St. The wonderful summer terrace Wwww.chicochillout.ro Wwww.restaurantulchinezesc.ro Ffb.com/rotisserieGalli T+40722 227 465 is located outside JW Marriott Pizza Hut Wwww.amvrosia-restaurant- Bucharest Grand Hotel, where Citronelle Nan Jing A5-7 Calea Dorobanți La Cantine de Nicolai grecesc.ro clients can enjoy a relaxing A1 Poligrafiei St. (inside Crowne A2-4 Gheorghe Manu St. T+40740 121 901 A15-17 Povernei St. lunch or dinner during the Plaza Hotel) T+40212 240 034 T+40213 181 285 Wpizzahut.ro T+40725 210 608 La Kostas Taverna warm season. The enchanting Ffb.com/Citronelle Wwww.restaurantnanjing.ro Wwww.pizzahutdelivery.ro Wwww.lacantinedenicolai.ro A238 Traian St. peaceful atmosphere and friendly T+40733 567 827 ambiance, delicious dishes and Gargantua Orașul Interzis Subway GERMAN Wlakostas.ro experienced staff are the key A8 Șerban Petrescu St. A98 Vasile Lascăr St. A1 Nicolae Titulescu Blvd. features that represent the well- A69 Jean-Louis Calderon St. T+40314 254 747 T+40721 782 929 Die Deutsche Kneipe La Zavat known terrace. T+40726 555 679, Wwww.orasul-interzis.ro Wsubwayro.com A9 Stockholm St. A16 Popa Nan St. T+40726 555 688 T+40722 284 560 T+40766 526 791 18 Lounge Wwww.restaurantgargantua.ro Qian Bao Taco Bell Ffb.com/diedeutschekneipe Wwww.taverna-lazavat.ro A3-5 Presei Libere Square, City A2 Intrarea Baba Novac ABăneasa Shopping City Gate South Tower, 18th fl. Hambar – Brasserie & T+40722 622 865 T+4021 203 9000 FUSION & FINE DINING LNKO Souvlaki & Grill T+40733 501 401 Charcuterie Wwww.qianbao.ro Wtaco-bell.ro A1 Divertismentului St. (inside Wwww.18lounge.ro A31 Aviatorilor Ffb.com/tacobellro Ad Hoc Bistro Divertiland Park) T+4021 222 6422 Wu Xing A10 C.A. Rosetti St. T+40736 887 307 Astrodom Wfb.com/hambar.brasserie A6E Dimitrie Pompeiu Blvd. FRENCH T+40770 214 214 Ffb.com/lnkogreekfood A33 Alexandru Constantinescu T+40722 830 330 Ffb.com/AdHocBistro St. (inside Domenii Plaza Hotel) Journey Pub bookmark Wwww.wuxing.ro Cișmigiu – INDIAN T+40730 630 630 A25 George Enescu St. Several locations in Bucharest & Bistro la Etaj Joseph by Joseph Hadad Wwww.astrodom.ro T+40752 285 286 home deliveries available. A38 Regina Elisabeta Blvd. A8 Dr. Ion Cantacuzino St. Karishma Wwww.journey-pub.ro (inside Cișmigiu Hotel, 6th Fl.) T+40753 999 333 A36 Iancu Căpitanu St. Beca’s Kitchen FAST FOOD [email protected] Wwww.josephrestaurant.ro T+40212 525 157 A80 Mihai Eminescu St. La Samuelle Wwww.cismigiu.ro/en Among the best fine dining Wwww.karishma.ro T+40744 344 700 A3-5 Square Most of these fast food outlets have We wished for a one-century options in the city, as well as one Wwww.becaskitchen.ro T+40730 173 180 several locations throughout the old address to recreate the of the most expensive. Kumar’s Agra Palace Wwww.la-samuelle.ro city below we list one main location atmosphere from times when A78 Alexandru Moruzzi Voievod Bite for each. Check their websites for Bucharest was known as Little Madame Pogany St. T+40764 523 202 A53 Mătăsari St. La Veranda more locations. Paris. Cișmigiu Restaurant is A40-44 Banu Antonache St. Wwww.agrapalace.ro T+40730 375 522 A1 Poligrafiei St. (inside Crowne sheltered on the upper floor of T+40735 091 532 Wwww.bitebucharest.ro Plaza Hotel) T+40212 240 034 the Cișmigiu Hotel. It appears as Ffb.com/madamepogany Ffb.com/LaVeranda Alphabetical table of contents

Alphabetical table of contents 36 Everything you need to feel at home in Romania! Alphabetical Index

2 Mai 41 Cars 111 Events 63 23 August 42 Castles 59 Eye clinics & hospitals 114 Catering & delivery 102 Reliable & practical information, Accidents 84 Centennial places 52, 68 Family & children 151 Addictions 116 Childbirth care 152 Fashion designers 116 advertising, editorial services & Adventure tourism 64 Chinese restaurants 95 Fashion shops 128 42 Churches & culture 44 Fast food 95 www.citycompassmedia.com events. Air condition repair 148 Churches 126 Financial authorities 134 Airport 82 Citizen services 162 Fitness centers 158 Alba Iulia 17, 36, 52 Classical 63 Food shops 88 American restaurants 94 Climbing 158 Foreign exchange offices 136 Antipa museum 91 Clothes for children 154 French restaurants 95 Team buildings, culinary events, Antique & crafts shops 127 Clubs 36, 73, 156 Fun & entertainment 156 Apart hotels & short term Cluj-Napoca 16, 35 Furniture shops 129 tailored solutions. apartments 110 Coaching 138 Fusion & fine dining restaurants 95 Architects & interior designers 149 Collision damage bureaus 112 www.citycompassevents.ro Arieșeni 34 Communism 47 Garbage collection 87 Art galleries 123 Constanța 40 Gardening & landscaping 149 Astronomy 123 Cooking classes 156 Gas services 151 Auction houses 123 Costume shops 156 German restaurants 95 Azuga 34 Cultural centers 123 Gifts 129 Trainings & tailored intercultural Culture & arts 123 Golf 159 Baby sitting 154 Câmpina 34 Graphic design 138 & sales consultancy. Banking & money wire 144 Great Union 48 Beer halls & bars 105 Dance studios 156 Greek restaurants 96 Bike & skateboard shops 110 Danube Delta 42 Gura Portiței 42 [email protected] Bike rental 110 Darts 158 Black Sea 27 Delicatessens, bio & Hairdressers 116, 154 Blood donation 114 ethnic food 127 Handymen 87, 148 Body remodelling 116 Dental clinics for children 153 Healthcare 114, 52 Bran—Moeciu—Rucăr 34 Dentists 114 Hiking 65 Brașov 12 Dermatology & dialysis centers 114 Horse-riding 44, 159 Bucharest landmarks 89 Discos & fun 40 Hostels 110 Bucharest listings 93 Discover Romania listings 29 Hotels 106 Bucharest neighborhoods 70 Do-it-yourself shops 128 House & home 146 Bucharest tips 67 Dobrogea 26 House cleaning & maids 149 Building contractors 149 Doftanei Valley 35 House repairs 148 Bungee jumping 65 Drink & drive 83 HR & head hunters 138 Buses 113 Hypermarkets 129 [email protected] Business organizations 142 Eating & drinking 94 Butchers 127 Education 118 Immigration 136 Buzău 8, 29 Eforie Nord 42 Indian restaurants 96 Bușteni 34 Electric charging stations 112 Intellectual property 138 Băneasa 79 Electricity 150 Intercultural consultancy 138 Embassies 162 International cuisine 96 Cable TV, internet, telephony 151 Emergency numbers 162 Internet & cable tv 86 Cafés, tea houses & bistros 103 English books, press 124 IT&C and web development 138 Carpentry shops & carpenters 148 Escape rooms 157 Italian restaurants 97 37 City Compass Positive Romania: Romania Insider Awards 38

Japanese restaurants 98 Padel 159 Sky-diving & parachuting 65, 160 Jewelry & watches 130 Paintball 159 Soccer 160 Romania Insider Awards Gala 2018 Painting & decorating 149 Spa & beauty centers 117 Karting 159 Pakistani restaurants 100 Spanish restaurants 102 Kayaking & canoeing 64 Parcel & courier services 150 Spice shops 132 Key cutting/copying centers 148 Parking 83 Sports 155, 158, 160 Kids entertainers 152 Parks, playgrounds, theaters 151 Squash 160 Kinesiotherapy 116 Pastry & confectionery 100 State-owned maternities 153 Kitesurfing 64 Pediatricians & children’s State hospitals 115 hospitals 153 Stock & forex brokers 136 Lactation consultants 153 Personal care 116 Stock market 136 Language lessons 122 Pharmacies 77, 114 Storage 146 Laundry services 117 Photographers 124 Strategy consulting 137 Law firms 136 Pilates 159 Street food 106 Lebanese restaurants 98 Pipera 79 Streets & traffic 83 Jury table at the Romania Insider Awards Cătălin Radu, Luc Beiso, CEO of Legal & business 134 Plastic surgery 114 Supermarkets 132 Gala, October 16, 2018 Country Commercial Lead, Crédit Agricole Bank Local & central authorities 135 Plumbers 148 Swimming pools & spas 160 Bayer Romania & Moldova Romania Locksmiths 148 Pool & bowling 160 Pool cleaning 149 Tailors 117 Malls 130 Portuguese restaurants 101 Tanning 118 Mamaia 40 Positive Romania 55 Tattoos 118 Manicure 117 PR agencies 140 Tax consulting & accounting 137 Maramureș 23, 40 35 Taxis & car sharing 113 Massage 117 Private clinics & hospitals 115 Tennis 161 Maternity wear 154 Private maternity hospitals 153 Thai restaurants 102 MBAs, higher education 122 Property management 146 Timișoara 37 Mediterranean restaurants 98 Public transport 84, 113 Tourist bus 85 Metro 84 Pubs & cafés 31, 74, 104 Tours & events 44 Mexican restaurants 100 Toys & baby gear 155 Awards sponsor table branding Dragoș Ungureanu, Elena Pap, Ministries 136 Railways 85 Traditional markets 132 at the Romania Insider Awards Gala Deputy Director SMEs, General Manager of Mobile telephony 162 Raw & vegan restaurants 101 Translation centers 138 Banca Transilvania Up Romania Moldavian restaurants 100 Real estate agencies 146 Transport 82, 110 Moldova & Bucovina 21, 38 Recycling centers 150 Transylvania 38 Mountain biking 66 Restaurants 94 Travel agencies 110 Mountain resorts 14 Road tax 83 Turkish restaurants 102 Movie theaters 157 Rock climbing 66 Moving companies 146 Romanian restaurants 101 Upholsters 149 Museums 40, 124 Roofs 148 Utilities & bills 86, 150, 162 Music shops & lessons 157 Rânca 35 Music venues 125 Râșnov 35 Vadu 41 Near bucharest 28, 43 Vama Veche 41 Schools 119 Vietnamese restaurants 102 NGOs 125 Scuba diving 42 Villages 56 Deutsche Schule Bukarest showcasing Beatrice Dumitrașcu, Gustavo Navarro, Managing Nurseries & kindergartens 118 Seafood restaurants 102 their future school VP Residential Sales, Director, CRH Romania Nutrition & supplements 130 Seaside highlights 27 Wakeboard 161 One United Properties Security 87, 150 Watch repairs 118 Offices & co-working spaces 142 Shoes 117, 130 Water & amusement parks 158 Old town 72 Shopping 79, 127, 154 Water delivery services 149 Olimp 42 Sibiu 18, 32 Windows & doors 148 Romania Insider Awards 2018 Jury: Manuela Banu – CEO of Orkla Foods Romania, Sebastien Delen – General Manager of Ubisoft, Ioana Enache – General Manager of Amway Romania, Bulgaria & , Gustavo Navarro – Managing Director of CRH Online shopping 88 Sighișoara 20, 37 Wines 29, 75, 105, 133 Romania, Aurelia Luca – Managing Director of Skanska Romania, Robert Maxim – Founding Partner of Ensight Management Opticians 117 Sinaia 10, 33 Consulting, Richard Sentkar – Country Head for Romania, BNP Paribas Group. Organic food 100 Skiing/snowboarding 65 Yoga 161 39 City Compass Positive Romania: Romania Insider Awards 40 PROMO Romania Insider PROMO Awards 2018 Winners

The first edition of the Romania Insider was received by Generations Community Centers Awards, a new event series by Romania- created by the Fundatia Principesa Margareta a Insider.com and City Compass Media Romaniei, a project which brings together the elderly with children from modest-income homes meant to uncover #PositiveRomania and in former after-school centers. #GameChangers, revealed its winners in ʡʡThe Best Promotion for Romania Abroad October 2018. Award powered by One United Properties went to Wild Carpathia & Flavours of Romania series Ioana Nainer, Patient Adrian Cighi (L) and Mr. Kai Hennig, Deputy Cosmin Mihăiță, It was a months-long selection process which started and to Simona Halep. Engagement, Advocacy & CSR Alexandru Gala-Popescu, Ambassador, German Marketing Manager, with online nominations and continued with two ʡʡBest Start-up award powered by Banca Lead, Janssen Romania co-founders of Pago Embassy to Bucharest Catinvest Eastern Europe rounds of judging — with the help of the 12 members Transilvania went to Pago, the mobile app used of the Board of Advisors, heads of main business for paying all utility bills in one place. associations and consultants and supported by the ʡʡFair Play Real Estate Project powered by seven jury members: top Romanian and foreign CEOs. Catinvest Eastern Europe went to Amber The scoring and judging rounds were un-biased: Gardens, the luxury residential project developed nominations were anonymized so that Board and Jury by Alesonor in Tunari. scored the projects, not the brands. ʡʡThe Employer of the Year Award powered by Romania Insider Awards 2018 also included a prize Up Romania was given to Michelin Romania, awarded by the young generation of professionals which runs three factories and a shared business under 30, who chose the people and projects with the center in Romania. best contribution to Romanian Society. ʡʡThe Young Generation’s Award for The public also casted their vote online by selecting Contribution to Romanian Society powered by Bogdan Bercean (L) and Alex Skouras (L) and Leonidas Florina Iordache of MagiCAMP the public prize winners in seven categories of awards, CRH Romania was given to Mr. Vlad Voiculescu, Ștefan Iarca of XVision Anastasopoulos, founders of (L) & Ioana Tătar of Fundația from among the top-ranked nominations after the co-founder of MagiCAMP NGO and former Health Alesonor Principesa Margareta a României previous judging rounds. Minister. He created the Citostatics Network, We’ve discovered the Jury prize winners and the which brought cancer medicine from abroad and public prize recipients at the Romania Insider Awards distributed it to patients in Romania. Gala on October 16 at the InterContinental Hotel in Bucharest, together with over 200 top managers, Public prizes investors and diplomats. ʡʡ The public prize for Best Innovation Award powered Stay tuned for the 2019 edition: Romania-Insider. by Bayer Romania — XVision — same as Jury winner com/Awards ʡʡThe public prize for Best Rural Development Award powered by Crédit Agricole — Transylvania Jury prizes Mountain Bike Trail — same as Jury winner ʡʡBest Innovation Award powered by Bayer ʡʡThe Public Prize for Most Scalable Social Romania went to XVision — an automated x-ray Responsibility Project powered by Janssen Elena Pap of Up Romania and Charlie Ottley and Oana Mihai, Sergiu Pâca, Fundația Adept, analysis system built by a team of students from Romania — MagiCAMP Gabriela Alexandru, regional HR the producers of Wild Carpathia, receiving the Best Rural Timisoara. ʡʡ Public prize for Best Promotion for Romania Abroad Director with Michelin – winners of Best Promo for Development Award from ʡʡBest Rural Development Award powered by Award powered by One United – Instagram Romania Crédit Agricole went to Transylvania Mountain ʡʡPublic prize for Best Start-up award powered by Employer of the Year award winner Romania abroad Luc Beiso of Crédit Agricole. Bike Trail by Fundatia Adept, a 100-kilometer bike Banca Transilvania — XVision trail connecting 8 villages in Central Romania, ʡʡPublic prize for Fair Play Real Estate Project This event was possible with the help of the following partners (in alphabetical order): ADA Economics, Alesonor, Anchor together with a dedicated yearly Mountain Bike powered by Catinvest Eastern Europe — Group, Banca Transilvania, Bayer Romania, Bitcoin Romania, Catinvest Eastern Europe, Cegeka, Crédit Agricole, CRH Trail competition. Globalworth Campus Romania, Deutsche Schule Bukarest, Grecu & Asociații, Hotel Cișmigiu, Intercontinental Hotel, Janssen Romania, Le Petit ʡʡThe Most Scalable Social Responsibility ʡʡPublic prize for Employer of the Year powered by Journal de Bucarest, Lea Broker, Nespresso, Nomenius, Norville Barns Investments, One United Properties, Online Real Assets, Telus International, Up Romania. Project Award powered by Janssen Romania Up Romania — Adobe Romania Positive Romania: Romania Insider Awards 42 Want the full edition Everything you need to feel at home. of this guide, in print WHAT’S INSIDE THIS EDITION or digital? d Special chapter: Centennial people, places, events; the Great Union story written by a local historian & a timeline of the last 100 years d Travel destinations from all over Romania, including main cities & regions, mountains, seaside, Danube Delta d #PositiveRomania: Charming villages, castles, main concerts & events, adventure tourism Head to d Bucharest’s vibrant Old Town & Pipera, the expat area RomaniaBucharestBeyond.com d Map of main Bucharest neighborhoods d Bucharest landmarks & Centennial sights d Practical info on life in Romania Online payments and d Recommended & updated business directory: delivery worldwide Restaurants, hotels, shopping & much more

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