written instructions #FREYABUTTERCUPDRESS
Follow the steps below to make your own Freya Buttercup Wrap Dress. if at any point you feel unsure, refer to sew-along tutorial listed below, REFERENCE the timestamps listed throughout the instructions.
madelabel.co/studio/FREYA-BUTTERCUP
CHOOSING YOUR SIZE
We recommend focusing on your bust measurement. For a more fitted bust (or lower cut bodice), you can choose the bust size that is the same as your full bust measurement.
For a more relaxed fit, allow up to 1 ½ inches (4cm) ease (so your bust + ease). You will sew a hook and eye closure at the cross-over point at the bust area, which you can adjust to suit the neckline you desire.
The hip and waist measurements are more flexible, as it’s a wrap dress.
MINI SKIRT LENGTH
To get the right skirt length, measure from your waist to the ideal length where you would like the skirt to sit. Compare your measurement to the WAIST TO MINI LENGTH measurement on the finished measurement chart pg 15 Pattern Information PDF. Shorten or lengthen the pattern as needed to achieve your perfect length.
We always recommend sewing up a sample out of an old duvet to allow you to get the perfect fit. In the case of the Freya Buttercup, sewing up the skirt and the bodice (without the frill) would give you a great indication of the fit.
FOLLOW OUR PATTERN ALT TUTORIAL TO ADJUST SKIRT LENGTH
madelabel.co/studio/ shorten-lengthen-wrap-skirt-pattern Place on the Fold Pattern MATERIAL Pieces [timestamp 2:33]
Woven - Non-Stretch - Good Drape The following pattern pieces are cut on the fold:
The Freya Buttercup works best with a lightweight • Top Back Panel woven fabric with a good drape such as Rayon or • Arm Frill Panel Viscose. • Back Skirt Panel
• Back Skirt Frill Panel If you make this pattern with a stiffer fabric, such as a cotton, it will create quite a lot of volume in IMPORTANT: Start by folding your fabric in half, the frill area. If creating in a cotton for the skirt we ensuring that folded edge is an equal distance away recommend ending the frill on the under-wrapped from your selvage edge. side just above the cross over point to avoid the extra 1. Place the pattern piece on the fabric, text side bulk of a stiffer fabric. up, line the “Place on Fold” mark with the folded edge. Make sure the pattern grainline is parallel NOTIONS to the selvage edge.
LIST OF THE THINGS YOU WILL NEED: 2. Cut around the outside of the pattern piece but not on the fold line. = Material (check your pattern for meterage) 3. Open up the fold, and you will have symmetrical = Matching thread sides of the pattern piece. = Bias binding tape maker
= Hook and eye/loop closure Cut Mirrored Pattern Pieces [timestamp 3:31] = Strap rings + adjusters (for adjustable straps) The following pattern pieces are mirror cut which = Pins (recommend lace pins for rayon) create a mirror pair, right and left side: = Tape measure & sewing ruler • Front Skirt Panel (mirrored pair) = Rotary cutter, mat & weights (or scissors but for • Front Skirt Frill Panel (mirrored pair) rayon we really suggest rotary cutter) • Top Front Panel (mirrored pair) = Machine • Top Back Frill Panel (mirrored pair) = Iron-off fabric marker pen • Top Front Frill Panel (mirrored pair)
There are two ways to do this:
Cutting Note + Fabric (1) Cut one piece at a time, or Requirements (2) Cut out both pieces at once on folded fabric
Refer to page 4 your sized pattern file for the cutting TIP: If you’re a beginner or your fabric is quite slippery, plan for your size. we suggest method 1.
METHOD 1: Cutting the Pattern 1. Place the fabric right side up. Next, place the There are two cutting methods used for the Freya pattern piece on the fabric, text side up. Making Buttercup Wrap Dress - pattern pieces placed on the sure the pattern grainline is parallel to the selvage fold and mirror cut pattern pieces. edge. Cut all the way around, including all notches.
PAGE 2 2. Flip the pattern piece over so that the text is folded edge. This helps to keep the bust shaping now facing down. Again, making sure the pattern smooth. Do not backstitch at the end of the dart. grainline is parallel to the selvage edge, cut. Pull long threads.
METHOD 2: 3. Tie off the dart at the tip [timestamp 9:36].
1. Fold the fabric in half, along the selvage edge of the material.
2. Place the pattern piece on the folded fabric, text side up. Making sure the pattern grainline is parallel to the selvage edge.
3. Cut all the way around, including all notches.
You should now have two pieces that are mirror versions of each other. 4. Keeping the dart folded, as originally sewn, press IMPORTANT: Please note that this pattern employs the main section of the dart flat. Avoid pressing the use of darts in the Top Front Panels. You must the pointed tip of the dart. mark the dart legs clearly, using your iron-off marker. 5. Then press the dart down, towards the bottom of TIP: For the Top Front Pattern Pieces, we suggest the bodice, using a tailor’s ham. cutting the pattern with the wrong side of your material facing up, which allows you to see your TIP: Perfect Dart Points Without a Tailor’s Ham: As you dart lines more clearly. If you are new to darts, refer press the dart, at the tip lift the fabric off the ironing board as per the video from . This to the video tutorial [timestamp 3:33 to 5:26] and [timestamp 10:12] follow along with the instructions on how to mark will allow you to press enough heat into the tip without the darts onto your Top Front Panels. making any marks or pockets. You should be only using the lightest touch and plenty of steam.
Assembling the Bodice [6:25] Sew Basting Stitches Sewing Darts on your Top Front Pattern Pieces [timestamp 8:38]
1. To sew the darts [timestamp 6:57]: Fold the dart 1. Adjust your machine to the longest stitch length. in half, right sides together and pin, matching the two dart legs where they start at the edge of the 2. Start at the notch near the side seam. Backstitch. pattern panel. Make sure both “legs” of the dart 3. Sew ¼ inch (0.5 cm) from the side of the edge are perfectly matching and the middle dart line (seam), to the second notch. Pull a long thread is precisely on the fold. to finish.
TIP: Watch a pro pinning tip for darts from [timestamp 4. At the same starting point first backstitch then 7:36] to help you along. sew a second line of basting ¼ inch (0.5cm) from 2. Starting with a backstitch to secure, sew along the the first stitch-line. Pull a long thread to finish. dart leg, from the outside, inward. As you approach 5. Repeat these steps for the second Top Front Panel. the tip of the dart, curve the stitching toward the These basting stitches will create the underbust gather later. PAGE 3 Staystitching [timestamp FRENCH SEAM METHOD 10:43] 1. Sew a ⅜ inch (or 1cm) line of stitching along Staystitching ensures that the front and back necklines pinned edges. Backstitch at the start and end. won’t stretch out while working on your bodice 2. Press seams and trim to less than ¼ inch (0.5 cm). 1. Sew a regular line of stitching along the back and 3. Open seams, right side up and press flat. front neckline, as close to the edge as possible. 4. Flip, right sides together. Press seams to the edge.
5. Finish by sewing ¼ inch (0.5 cm) seams.
6. Press the seams forward.
7. Trim any uneven edges on the outer edge of the frill, paying attention to the center back seam join. Trim it into a neat curve so that hemming is a bit easier later on.
Joining the Top Frill with Sewing Bodice and Wrap Ties French Seams [timestamp 11:22] [timestamp 14:34]
The frill pieces you will be joining together: You will start using your bias tape now. See below • 2x Top Back Frill for the size to cut your fabric square to create bias strips. If you haven’t made bias tape before, follow • 2x Arm Frill this short video tutorial:
• 2x Top Front Frill https://www.madelabel.co/studio/bias-binding
SIZE 4-8 46cm x 46cm (18.1” x 18.1”) START WITH PINNING: SIZE 10-12 48cm x 48cm (18.9” x 18.9”) 1. Place two Top Back Frill Panels wrong sides together at center-back and pin. Open out on SIZE 14-16 50.5cm x 50.5cm (19.9” x 19.9”) the work surface. SIZE 18-22 54cm x 54cm (21.3” x 21.3”) 2. Pin the Arm Frill Panels to each straight edge of
the Back Frill that you pinned in step 1, wrong Sewing the Wrap Ties sides together. 1. You will need two strips of double folded bias 11 TIP: Ensure that the growing frill is taking the shape ½ inches (29cm) long to create the ties. of an inward-turning spiral or circle (If the frill is starting to take on the shape of a wave instead of a 2. First close one end of the ties. Unfold the bias spiral, retrace your steps and start over). and fold in the top (short) end. Then, re-fold the two side edges to meet at the centre fold. Press. 3. You will have the straight edges of the arm fills facing outward. To these, join the two Top Front 3. Fold in half length-ways, tucking in any raw edges. Frill Panels, wrong sides together. Pin in place. Pin in place and press.
4. If you have an inward-turning spiral, give yourself 4. At the machine, sew down the (open) edge strip a pat on the back. of bias. Pivot and sew off the end of the tie. Press. 5. Repeat steps 1-3 for the second tie.
French Seaming the Entire Frill [timestamp 12:48]
Sewing along all the pinned joins with French seams.
PAGE 4 Sewing the Wrap Ties into ADDING THE OUTER TIE the Bodice Side Seams 8. On the side without a tie, open the seam so the [timestamp 16:15] right sides are facing up. Mark ¾ inch (1.8cm) up The side seams of the bodice will also be completed from the bottom of the side seam. Place the tie with French seams. Each side will encase a tie. One on the mark with the raw edge of the tie as close tie will be encased on the inside, and the other will to the seam edge as possible. The bottom of the be encased by on the outside. tie should line up with the mark. Pin it in place. 9. Re-fold the seam, right sides together and the tie sandwiched between Front and Back Top Panels.
10. Sew ¼ inch (0.5cm) along both side seams. Backstitch across the tie to reinforce.
11. Press the seams forward.
12. Voilà! You should now have one tie sewn into the outside side seam of your bodice and one sewn into the inside. 1. Starting with the inside tie. Mark ¾ inch (1.8cm) up from the bottom edge of the Top Back Panel on the wrong side of the fabric. Bias Facing the Armhole [timestamp 20:12] NOTE : You can choose to add this first tie on either side of the bodice. It will determine the inside tie of 1. You will need two lengths of double folded bias the wrap dress. tape the length of your armhole edge.
2. Place the tie on the mark. Line up the bottom of 2. Unfold one side of your bias tape. Place the bias the tie with the mark and leave a slight overhang tape onto the armhole, right sides together. Leave on the edge of the bodice. Pin in place. a little bit of overhang at the start.
3. Pin the Top Front Panel to the Top Back Panel along the side seams, wrong sides together. The tie will be sandwiched between the two panels on one side of the bodice (you will be encasing the second tie later - step 8).
4. Sew a ⅜ inch (1cm) along each pinned edge. Backstitch at the start and end. You can also backstitch when you sew over the tie to reinforce.
5. Press seams and trim to less than ¼ inch (0.5 cm). 3. Pin the bias tape along the edge of the armhole. 6. Open seam, right side up and press flat. Make sure the dart it is laying flat. 7. Flip, right sides together. Press seam to the edge. 4. Use the folded line of the bias tape as a guide to sew a seam along the armhole ¼ inch (0.5 cm) from the raw edge.
5. Trim overhang of that darts.
6. With tiny, sharp scissors, cut little triangles around the armhole. Cut up to the seam but do not snip the stitch line. Cutting these triangles helps the underarm to sit flat by reducing bulk.
PAGE 5 4. Pin the frill to the Top Front Panels: line up the arm frill seam with the start of the Top Front Panel where the strap will sit.
7. Fold the bias tape to the stitch line and then fold in again, pinning in place as you go. This should create a facing that is not visible on the outside 5. Continue pinning down the neckline of the Top of the garment. If this is your first time folding Front Panel, until you reach the end. bias facing check [timestamp 21.54] for tutorial. 6. Sew a holding seam on the edge of the neckline TIP : Give this a quick press before heading to the where you pinned the frill. machine, this makes it much easier to sew.
8. Wrong side facing up, sew a stitch line the outside edge of the bias tape. Press. Tacking on the Straps [timestamp 27:47] 9. Repeat steps 1-8 in this section for the other armhole. Next we add adjustable straps, which consist of front straps and back loops. You will need lengths of stitched-up bias for the straps and strap rings and Hemming the Frill [timestamp adjusters (for the adjustable straps). 23:10] 1. Create two, 2 inch (5cm) strips of stitched up bias DOUBLE ROLLED HEM METHOD for the back loops.
1. Roll the raw edge in ¼ inch (0.5cm) and press. 2. Thread the two strap rings onto these. Pin closed.
TIP: Slightly pull the fabric as you fold it. If you get to 3. Mark 3/8 inch (1cm) from the top of the loop on any particularly tricky parts, dampen your fabric, so both the backstrap loops. Set these aside. it’s almost wet as it will make it much more pliable. 4. For the front straps, create two longer lengths of 2. Once pressed, roll the hem in again, ¼ inch (0.5 sewn bias. Close them at one end, as you did for cm) and press. the wrap ties. See below for front strap length. 3. Wrong side facing up, sew a stitch-line on the inside edge of that double-rolled hem. Press.
Attaching the Frill [timestamp 25:42]
1. Attach the frill to the bodice, starting at the center back. Match the frill center back seam to the V on the back bodice neckline. With right sides both facing up, pin the frill onto the back of the bodice.
2. The arm frill should start where the neckline on the Top Back Panel ends. Pin to this point only.
3. The arm frill isn’t going to be attached to any part of the bodice because it will drape over your arm.
PAGE 6 FRONT STRAP LENGTHS
SIZE 4-6 9” (23cm)
SIZE 8-12 9 ¼” (23.5cm)
SIZE 14-18 9 ½” (24cm)
SIZE 20-22 9 ⅝” (24.5cm)
5. Tack the straps onto the bodice, starting with the front strap. Lay the front strap on the Front Top Panel of the wrap bodice. You will see a marking SEWING THE SKIRT FRILL [TIMESTAMP 30:46] on your pattern where the strap should sit. 2. Line up the notches on the frill pieces, wrong 6. The raw edge of the strap should line up with the sides together, and pin in place. Similar to the raw edge at the top of the bodice. Make sure it’s bodice frill, create an inward turning circle when on a vertical axis (perpendicular) to the bodice, you join the Back Skirt Frill to the Front Skirt Frill. with the closed end of the strap pointing toward 3. Sew the frill seams using French Seams the bottom of the bodice. Tack straps in place. NOTE: Refer to pg 6, steps 1-6 FRENCH SEAM METHOD 7. Once you add the bias facing the strap will flip up. Flip the strap up to make sure it will pull straight. Mitered Corners on Frill TIP : Try your bodice on once your straps are tacked Edge - [timestamp 33:04] to make sure they are in the right place. Especially if you will be wearing a bra with the dress. Next we will be completing mitered edge corners on the flounce, before continuing to finish the raw edges with a double rolled hem.
1. Neaten the corner of the front frill by trimming.
2. Starting on the curved edge, press ¼ inch (0.5 cm) along the hem of both raw edges leading up to the corner [time stamp 33:26]
3. Go back and fold over another ¼ inch (0.5 cm). Press neatly. You will now have a corner that is double folded. 8. For the back straps, line up the 1cm mark with the 4. Carefully unfold the corner once, so that there is raw edge of the bodice. If you are unsure about the just one ¼ inch (0.5 cm) fold visible. strap placement, check your pattern for the strap placement marking. The loop and ring should be TIP : you can hold the fold open with pins as per image. pointing toward the bottom of the bodice. 5. Measure the first fold, whatever that measurement 9. Pin in place. Flip the strap loops up to make sure is, double it (eg ¼ inch = ½ inch). they are pulling up straight. The space between the ring and where you’ve pinned the loop should be equal on both sides. Tack in place.
Assembling the Skirt [timestamp 30:38]
1. Sew the side seams of the Skirt Back Panel to Skirt Front Panel with French Seams.
NOTE: Refer to pg 6, steps 1-6 FRENCH SEAM METHOD
PAGE 7 6. Using this measurement, mark that distance down Pinning Back Skirt Panel to from each corner [timestamp 34:15 to 34:50]. the Back Skirt Frill:
7. Draw a triangle from one mark to the other.
8. Pinch the corner to fold the fabric, right sides together [timestamp 35:05]. Make sure the two marks line up. Pin this pinched fold in place.
9. Stitch across the guide line, making sure to backstitch so that the corner is durable.
10. Flip the stitched corner inwards, and make sure it’s sitting nicely. Then, flip it open again and carefully trim off the corner triangle past the stitch line.
11. Flip the corner in and give both your mitered 1. Mark the ½ and ¼ way points of the Back Skirt corners a good press [timestamp 36:19]. Panel by lining up the side seams
2. Do the same for the Back Skirt Frill. Double Rolled Hem on Frill 3. Pin the Back Skirt Frill to the Back Skirt Panel, wrong sides together. Line up the ½ and ¼ marks and make sure the side seams line up.
PINNING THE FRONT SKIRT FRILL TO THE FRONT SKIRT PANEL:
1. Measure 1.7cm (just over 3/8 inch) from the top of the Front Skirt Panel on both sides [timestamp
[timestamp 36:27]
12. Now you need to finish the raw edges of the frill with a double rolled hem. Use the same technique used to finish the Frill for your bodice.
13. Refer to steps 1-3 DOUBLE ROLLED HEM METHOD on pg 7. Remember that you pressed doubled rolled hems leading up to your mitered corners, so continue pressing from this point.
TIP: When sewing the corners of the frill, make sure 39:46]. Mark on the wrong side. Use the marked that your needle is down to pivot. You may want to point (matched to the skirt side seam) to mark use the handwheel on your machine for the first few the ½ and ¼ way points on the front skirt panels stitches after pivoting to ensure the fabric doesn’t [timestamp 40:09] get stuck in the machine. 2. Mark the ½ and ¼ way points on the Front Skirt Frill raw seam edge. Attach the Frill to the Skirt 3. Match the Front Skirt Frill markings with the Front Body [timestamp 38:09] Skirt Panel markings. Pin in place. The frill attaches along the raw edge of the skirt, Important: Make sure you line up the finished edge using French Seams. of the frill with the mark on the Front Skirt Panel. **IMPORTANT PINNING STEP - read over step 1-3 ‘Pinning the Front Skirt Frill to the Front Skirt Panel.’ PAGE 8 Attaching the Bodice to the Skirt [timestamp 43:55]
1. Match the Back Top Panel with the Back Skirt Panel. The Back Top Panel should be slightly longer than the Back Skirt Panel.
HACK : You can use the below easing steps on any project where you find that your pattern pieces are not matching up.
BASTING TO EASE PATTERN PIECES TOGETHER: 7. Pin the skirt and bodice together back toward the gathering stitches. Once you reach the start of 2. Set your machine to the longest straight stitch the gathers, [timestamp 47:00] use the top two length. Pull a long set of threads from the machine, threads from the basting stitches to gather the and sew a line of stitching ¼ inch (0.5 cm) from extra material on the Top Front Panel until it lays the raw edge at the bottom of the Back Top Panel flat. Ensure gathers are evenly spaced. Pin in place. only, from one side seam to the other side seam. ⅜ Pull long threads to finish. This line of basting 8. With the bodice facing up, sew a inch (or 1cm) stitches will be used to ease (and if needed gather) line of stitching along pinned edges. Backstitch the panel so that it fits the corresponding Back at the start and end. Sew straight across gathers. Skirt Panel. 9. Skirt side facing up, trim the seam back to less TIP: For future projects, if you have under an inch (1-2 than ¼ inch (0.5 cm). cm) of extra length in your pattern piece, the tension 10. Open seam, right side up and press flat. from this line of stitching should match your pieces. 11. Flip, right sides together. Press seam to the edge. If you have more than 1 inch (1-2 cm) extra length on As you press the gathers, make sure they are all any panel, add a second line of basting stitches, which sitting nicely. Pin in place. can also be slightly gathered if needed. 12. [timestamp 48:58] Your intended sew line should 3. [timestamp 44:58] From the side seams, ½ and just kiss the top of the frill, leaving it with free ¼ points on the Top Back Panel and the Skirt movement. Back Panel. If you find the Top Back Panel is still slightly longer, gather as needed. Pin with wrong sides together, matching side seams.
4. Continue pinning the Top Front Panel to the Skirt Front Panel. Stop once you reach the start of the gathered stitch lines.
TIP: Draw the intended sew line above the frill with a removable marker. Use the length-wise pinning along this intended stitch line to check your sew-line will just kiss (but not catch) the frill when sewing. Use this line to guide you at the machine.
13. Starting at the drawn-in stitch-line, sew a ¼ inch 5. On the Top Front Panel, mark ¼ inch (0.5 cm) in (0.5 cm) seam. Make sure that your bodice is facing from the end of the bodice [timestamp 46:20]. up, to check your gathers are sewing neatly. 6. [timestamp 46:43] Line up this mark with the 14. Check your frill hasn’t been sewn into the seam. outside edge of the French Seam on the skirt. Press the seam down. You can disregard the frill for now.
PAGE 9 Adding bias facing to the neckline [timestamp 50:00]
The bias facing will also continue past the end of the bodice to create the ties for your wrap dress.
1. Mark the ½ point on your bias facing length. See below for bias length.
4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 231 240 249 258 267 276 285 294 304 313
91” 94.5” 98” 101.6” 105.1” 108.7” 112.3” 115.8” 119.7” 123.3” IMPORTANT TIP: [timestamp 52:05] Use an iron-off pen to draw the sew line. Also use this method to mark a straight line across each of your straps to ensure sewn, they will they pull straight.
6. Sew along the folded guide of the bias strip ¼ inch (0.5cm) from the raw edge of the bodice. Following any drawn-in stitch-lines.
7. Check all four straps for vertical alignment once flipped up. Return the machine to backstitch across straps, to reinforce for future durability.
8. At the frill join, test fold the bias facing to ensure all the raw edges will be encased. The frill should 2. Line up the mark on the bias with the V on the still have free movement. Trim off any bulk as back bodice neckline. nfolding one side of the needed. bias and placing the raw edges and right sides together. 9. [timestamp 54:06] Using the same technique as the underarm, turn the bias facing in along the 3. Continue to pin the bias facing along the back entire length of the bodice and arm frill, pinning as of the bodice, across the arm frill and down the you go and making sure that the frill is laying flat. front of the bodice. When you reach any straps, sandwich these between the bias facing and the TIP : You do not need to cut triangles into this bias bodice. facing as there aren’t any deep curves.
4. [timestamp 51.20] Once you reach the end of the bodice, where the skirt frill begins, you want 10. Continue folding and pinning the bias, ensuring the folded line of the bias (that will be the stitch the frill is flat. When you get to the straps, trim guide) to cover the raw edges on the inside of the off any excess. You should find the staps just pop frill, so they will be folded inside the bias facing. up as you fold the bias. Press.
5. Use the length-wise pinning along this intended stitch line to check your sew-line, fold up the bias to check all the raw edges are covered. PAGE 10 11. Starting at the beginning of either bodice panel Sewing hook and eye with the wrong side of the dress facing up, sew closures [timestamp 1:02:30] a line of stitching on the inside edge of the bias. 1. Try the dress on and mark the point you want This line of stitching will be visible on the front your closure to be on both sides of the bodice. of your bodice, so make sure you’re keeping it as even as possible. 2. Lay the ‘eye’ or loop to the side of the bodice that wraps under. Place the ‘eye’ on the bias facing 12. Give the neckline and frill a thorough press, which underside of the bodice, lining it up with the will help the neckline to sit correctly. middle of the mark.
3. Hand stitch it in place, making sure your stitches Finishing Touches [timestamp are only catching the bias facing are not visible 58:34] on the front of the bodice. Secure both sides of Next we will be sewing the remaining bias facing the ‘eye’ and tie off. closed, to form the dress ties. 4. Attach the hook to the other side, again placing it 1. Fold the end of the tie closed, as did ealier with on the bias facing and lining it up with the mark the straps and other ties. you made. 5. Hand stitch the hook in place, making sure your stitches are only catching the bias facing are not visible on the front of the bodice. Secure both sides of the ‘hook’ and tie off.
Checkout [timestamp : 1:03:36] for how to tie the Freya Buttercup Wrap Dress.
You are now finished sewing your Freya Buttercup Wrap Dress (whoop whoop). Check out [timestamp 1.00.40] for how to tie the dress.
We hope you enjoyed sewing the Freya Buttercup 2. Starting at the bodice, sew down the open edge Wrap Dress. Check out madelabel.co/collections/ of the tie, stitching the end closed. Press. wrap to see other patterns to mix and macth with 3. To stop the frill from flapping open, tack the frill the Freya Buttercup to create new garments. to french seam [timestamp 1:00:03].
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Completing the adjustable #FREYABUTTERCUPDRESS straps [timestamp 1:00:39]
1. Slide on the strap adjuster onto the strap.
2. Thread the strap (from the top down) through the ring on the back strap.
3. Thread the strap back through the bottom bar of the strap adjuster.
4. Point the end of the strap toward the back of the bodice. Tack it to the strap directly under it. Repeat for the other shoulder strap.
TIP : you only want to tack it to the strap directly underneath. If you tack more than one layer the strap will not be adjustable.
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