Bow and Behold LOS ANGELES — Designers Are Going Back in Time, Channeling the Early Sixties with Elegant Eveningwear, Often Detailed with Beading and Bows

Home , Kazuya Kamenashi, Mindy Grossman, Wrap dress

GAP’S MIDEAST DEAL/2 TOURING TOKYO WITH RALPH/8 WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’TUESDAY Daily Newspaper • April 18, 2006 • $2.00 Ready-to-Wear/Textiles

Bow and Behold LOS ANGELES — Designers are going back in time, channeling the early Sixties with elegant eveningwear, often detailed with beading and bows. Here, Bradley Bayou’s silk satin dress with vintage silk lace. Swarovski earrings and bracelet. For more, see pages 6 and 7.

Jumping the Nike Ship: Mindy Grossman Exits, Joins Barry Diller’s IAC By Melanie Kletter Y MONICA SCHWEIGER NEW YORK — In another dramatic management shift at Nike Inc., Mindy Grossman has stepped down as global vice president of apparel to become chief executive officer of retailing at Barry Diller’s IAC/InterActiveCorp. Y KRISTEN HILTON/CELESTINE; ST YLED B Y KRISTEN HILTON/CELESTINE; IAC owns the Home Shopping Network, Ticketmaster, Evite and several other interactive businesses. Grossman will be ceo of IAC Retailing, which includes HSN, Cornerstone ANK MANAGEMENT; MAKEUP B ANK MANAGEMENT; Brands, Shoebuy and IAC’s international retailing operations, and had sales last year of $3.05 billion. The online commerce company had overall See Mindy, Page 17 IRA/L.A. MODELS; HAIR BY JOHN RUGGERIO/FR IRA/L.A. MODELS; HAIR BY PHOTO BY MICHAEL POWERS; MODEL: PHOTO BY 2 WWD, TUESDAY, APRIL 18, 2006 WWD.COM Gap Inc. Enters Middle East By David Moin tegic alliances and Gap Japan 11,000-square-foot showroom Merchandising, said in an inter- at 620 Sixth Avenue, at 18th WWDTUESDAY Ready-to-Wear/Textiles NEW YORK — Gap Inc. is entering view Monday. Street, which held its fi rst mar- the Middle East with about 25 Gap Licensing and shops-in-shops ket week for franchise customers units and 10 Banana Republics by were also considered, but fran- in February. The fi rst franchis- FASHION 2010 through a franchise agree- chising would be the best route. ing agreement was announced Designers are channeling Alfred Hitchcock ingenue Tippi Hedren by ment with the Al Tayer Group, a “Franchising is very appropriate last January with FJ Benjamin, 6 creating evening gowns that are feminine, regal and a little bit quirky. private, diversifi ed company im- because it provides for strong which plans to open up to 30 Gap mersed in luxury retailing. control of the brand on our part,” and Banana Republic stores by The Gap agreement brings Schulman said. “Gap Inc. will 2010 in Singapore and Malaysia. GENERAL both parties involved to new mar- control all of the product — it’s Around the same time, the In a key management move at Nike, Mindy Grossman has left as global kets — Gap to the Middle East designed and produced by Gap fi rst Gap stores in the Middle 1 vice president of apparel to become ceo of retailing at Barry Diller’s IAC. and Al Tayer to midtier retailing. Inc. — as well as the marketing, East will open. The fi rst Banana EYE: Artsy types went West for the fi rst Los Angeles Art Week and Meanwhile, Saks Fifth Avenue the creative and the store design. Republic stores in the region 4 get-togethers celebrating Ballroom Marfa and several openings. has signed a licensing deal in We will also work with strong are scheduled to open in 2007. Shanghai, and will push for addi- local operators to understand Asked if the Gap’s subpar On his fi rst trip to Japan in 25 years, Ralph Lauren was a natural with the tional overseas locations, under- their marketplace and who have sales performance lately makes 8 locals, as they mobbed him and took photos as if he were a rock star. scoring how retailers that have strong relationships with the real it more challenging to fi nd fran- RTW: Shoppers will have lots of outerwear options this fall, thanks to reached maturity in the U.S. are estate community and strong re- chisees, Schulman fl atly replied, Company Ellen Tracy, George Simonton, Lilly Pulitzer and Cockpit USA. reaching overseas for growth. lations with local talent to pull “No. In fact, there’s a tremendous 9 Gap has always owned and op- together the best local teams. amount of interest in our brands International Textile Group’s Cone Denim unit announced plans for a new erated all its stores, including the The franchise model provides the from different parts of the world.” 17 denim facility in Nicaragua’s Jorge Bolaños Abaunza Textile Park. international units already up right balance between protecting In the Middle East, “we’ve done Berkshire Hathaway Inc., the holding company run by billionaire investor and running. There are Gaps and the core values of our brand and a lot of studies [showing] there is Warren Buffett, is acquiring activewear fi rm Russell Corp. Banana Republics in the U.K., insuring strong local execution.” an appetite for this brand.” 17 Canada, France and Japan. Schulman added that the inter- He would not disclose wheth- Obituaries...... 16 However, a year ago, the $16 national program “is not one size er any more franchise deals billion, 3,000-unit retailer deter- fi ts all. In other markets, we may would soon be announced, but Classifi ed Advertisements...... 19 mined it needed a new model decide on directly owned stores.” he did say, “The program is ac- To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. for international expansion. Al Tayer is the second fran- celerating. [email protected], using the individual’s name. “Right now, we are pursu- chisee signed on with Gap, “The Middle East, with its WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPY- ing the franchise strategy. We which has been gearing up for young and affl uent population, is RIGHT ©2006 FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. feel comfortable with it,” Joshua overseas expansion. The Gap’s a particularly attractive market VOLUME 191, NO. 82. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one ad- Schulman, senior vice president international division, based for the Gap and Banana Republic ditional issue in January and November, two additional issues in March, May, June, August and December, and three additional issues in February, April, September and October by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, of Gap Inc.’s international stra- here, early this year opened an Continued on page 18 Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. Newhouse Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President & C.E.O.; John W. 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Before that, she was vice ● WAL-MART HEALTH KICK: Wal-Mart Stores Inc., under fi re challenge in the apparel group. president of better sportswear at from labor groups for its treatment of 1.3 million U.S. workers, During Diane’s six-year tenure Bloomingdale’s. said Monday that next month it will make health care coverage with Limited Brands, in a variety — D.M. available to more than 150,000 part-time employees after they have worked one year for the company, instead of two. “Covering part-time employees is not the norm,” said Susan Chambers, executive vice president. “But every American deserves health care and we want to lead by taking this step.” Other changes to Wal-Mart’s benefits package include an expanded list of $3 generic prescriptions and a 10 percent discount on healthy foods, such as fruits and vegetables, at Wal- Mart and Sam’s Club stores. prints: vintage looks • florals • novelties • geometrics • tropicals ● CHEROKEE STEPS IN: Cherokee Inc. on Monday submitted a L.A. SHOWROOM stretch: yarn dyes, poplin prints, corduroy prints, denim & twill & HEADQUARTERS competing bid against Iconix Brand Group to acquire Mossimo 129 W. 132nd St. prints; cottons: seersucker, lawn prints, yarn dyes, voiles, denim, 800.877.2066 Inc. for about $135 million in cash and shares. Cherokee, based canvas, corduroy, flannel solids & prints, velveteens; linens & N.Y.C. SHOWROOM in Van Nuys, Calif., offered $6 in cash and $2.50 in shares in Textile Arts Marketing micro suedes too! 40 W. 37th St. #802 a move to create a diverse portfolio of licensed brands. The 212.868.9040 Intl. sales & shipping proposal represents a 9 percent premium to Mossimo’s closing L.A. TEXTILE SHOW Custom design, dyeing Booth #223 & printing available www.robertkaufman.com share price of $7.81 on April 17 on the Nasdaq Stock Market, and a 13 percent premium to the $119 million offer that New York’s Iconix made on April 3. With unanimous approval from its board, Cherokee sent a letter dated April 17 to Mossimo Giannulli, chairman and co-chief executive officer of Santa Monica, Calif.-based Mossimo, and Edwin Lewis, vice chairman and co-ceo.

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A VENTURE OF THE IAN SCHRAGER COMPANY AND EXCLUSIVE MARKETING AND SALES AGENT: THE SUNSHINE GROUP, LTD. SPONSOR: 40 BOND STREET PARTNERS LLC, C/O IAN SCHRAGER COMPANY, 818 GREENWICH STREET, NEW YORK, NY 10014. THE COMPLETE OFFERING TERMS ARE IN AN OFFERING PLAN AVAILABLE FROM SPONSOR FILE NO. CD-05-0170. WE ARE PLEDGED TO THE LETTER AND SPIRIT OF U.S. POLICY FOR THE ACHIEVEMENT OF EQUAL HOUSING OPPORTUNITY THROUGHOUT THE NATION. WE ENCOURAGE AND SUPPORT AN AFFIRMATIVE ADVERTISING AND MARKETING PROGRAM IN WHICH THERE ARE NO BARRIERS TO OBTAINING HOUSING BECAUSE OF RACE, COLOR, RELIGION, SEX, HANDICAP, FAMILIAL STATUS OR NATIONAL ORIGIN. 4 WWD, TUESDAY, APRIL 18, 2006 WWD.COM East of Eden LOS ANGELES — “You could call it my paean of love to the neighborhood,” says Los Angeles architect Barbara Bestor of her new book, “Bohemian Modern: Living in Silver Lake.” Part architectural guide, part community album with a meet- Artful the-neighbors casualness, the beautifully produced boxed volume, due out later this month from Regan Books, explores Los Angeles’ Eastside neighborhood that in recent years has become the apogee of hip. Bestor’s personal and idiosyncratic portrait of the area is revealed through a sprinkling of anecdotes and cocktail recipes, colorful graphics and photographs. Dodgers The architect’s relationship with the enclave, known for its rich vein of midcentury modernist architecture, began two decades ago, LOS ANGELES — Artsy types migrated West last weekend when the Cambridge, Mass., native and Harvard graduate would for the fi rst annual Los Angeles Art Week and a series of wander the hills looking for hidden housing gems. And there are get-togethers celebrating everything from the Ballroom many — including homes designed by Richard Neutra, John Lautner Marfa to openings for Raymond Pettibon and Lorna and R.M. Schindler. The book includes Schindler’s 1953 house Simpson. inhabited by fi lmmaker Thom Andersen and artist Roger Herman’s The swirl plywood castle, built in 1988 by Frederick Fisher, whose work of festivities includes the P.S. 1 Contemporary Art Center in Queens, New York. started Thursday Barbara Bestor night, when the young collector set, including Yvonne Force Villareal and Liz Goldwyn, sipped margaritas and swayed to a performance by Ryan Bingham at Lucy’s El Adobe Cafe in Hollywood. Everyone ventured further east the following evening to Simpson’s Museum of Contemporary Art opening, which was followed by a 60-person sit-down dinner Milla — fi ttingly for California Jovovich in held in a converted car Jovovich- showroom. Among the Hawk. eclectic mix of diners were Laura and Kate Mulleavy of Rodarte and Libertine’s Johnson Hartig. The decidedly downtown crowd was lured back to posh Beverly Hills on Saturday for Francesco Vezzoli’s fi rst West Coast show, “The Gore Vidal Trilogy,” at the Gagosian Gallery. The artist’s fascination with melancholy Hollywood bygones had a fi tting audience: everyone from pal Milla Jovovich, who starred in the raunchy video installation, a fake trailer for a remake of “Caligula,” to Farrah Fawcett, who was shepherded around the party by her new BFF Force Villareal. Even art lovers as disparate as Courtney Love, Dennis Hopper and Stavros Niarchos came out to play. “Los Angeles could use more weekends like this,” mused Goldwyn.

Joy Bryant in Betsey Johnson.

The Eastside area, including Silver Lake and adjacent Echo Park, has long been at the forefront of avant-garde Los Angeles, from its role as the site of the pre-Hollywood fi lm industry through the postwar modernists and fi nally to its current critical mass of artists, musicians and actors. But when Bestor fi rst arrived, the area was dormant. “In those days, it was very sleepy, pretty mellow,” she says. For better or worse, she was among the vanguard of new residents who began the shift. In 1989, she designed stores on Vermont Avenue for streetwear brands X-Large and X-Girl, the fi rst of the busy hub of shops and cafes that exists today. Bestor rolled out more shops for the brands in the U.S. and Japan, and gradually expanded into residential work. “I have strong modernist training, but I’m suspicious of any orthodoxy,” she says. “I leave things a little bit raw. I prefer houses to be somewhat mute and simple outside, combine rooms into big spaces inside, and have lots of indoor-outdoor space.” While her architectural projects now include a beach house in Santa Barbara for photographer Dewey Nicks, Silver Lake remains her zip code of choice. She is building four houses there, among them a hillside home for “CSI: NY” actor Hill Harper. For Bestor, the book represents the neighborhood in more than just subject matter. Fellow Eastsider Geoff McFetridge, an illustrator whose fi lm work includes the opening titles for “Adaptation” and “Virgin Suicides,” did the illustrations, and California Institute of the Arts professor Michael Worthington handled the graphics. “I wanted people on the experimental side of David Liz graphics to complement the experimental side of the architecture,” LaChapelle Goldwyn Bestor says. “How great is it that there’s this progressive community with in vintage here, combined with progressive design? It’s not fl ashy. It’s still Courtney Yves Saint modest. And people love the area because of that.” Love. Laurent. Cecilia Dean — Andrew Griffi th PARTY PHOTOS BY DONATO SARDELLA; JESSICA BOONE BESTOR BY DONATO PHOTOS BY PARTY

6 WWD, TUESDAY, APRIL 18, 2006

Louis Verdad’s silk dress and patent belt. Charles Winston The Sixties Chicks Couture earrings. LOS ANGELES — Remember Tippi Hedren? For fall, designers are channeling the Hitchcock ingenue of the early Sixties, creating evening gowns that are feminine, regal and even a little bit quirky.

Octavio Carlin’s silk chiffon dress with a silk bow. Swarovski tiara and earrings; Charles Winston Couture bracelet. WWD, TUESDAY, APRIL 18, 2006 7 WWD.COM

Monique Collette Dinnegan’s beaded Lhuillier’s silk and nylon gown and wool and Jenny Kayne’s sheared rabbit silk dress capelet. Swarovski earrings; and jacket. La Crasia gloves. Erickson Beamon necklace. ASHION ASSISTANT: JENNIFER BELLI; STYLED BY MONICA SCHWEIGER JENNIFER BELLI; STYLED BY ASHION ASSISTANT:

Kevan Hall’s beaded nylon dress. Charles Winston Couture earrings.

Costume National’s mink- trimmed silk dress. Swarovski earrings; Erickson Beamon necklace.

Joseph Domingo’s beaded silk gown. Charles Winston Couture bracelet; Rodo clutch. PHOTOS BY MICHAEL POWERS; MODEL: IRA/L.A. MODELS; HAIR BY JOHN RUGGERIO/FRANK MANAGEMENT; MAKEUP BY KRISTEN HILTON/CELESTINE; F KRISTEN HILTON/CELESTINE; MAKEUP BY MANAGEMENT; JOHN RUGGERIO/FRANK MICHAEL POWERS; MODEL: IRA/L.A. MODELS; HAIR BY PHOTOS BY 8 WWD, TUESDAY, APRIL 18, 2006 WWD.COM

Ralph and Ricky Lauren inin Tokyo.Tokyo.

Ralph Lauren’s Whirlwind Tour of Tokyo By Marc Karimzadeh the time, so I didn’t even think much about the crowds,” Lauren didn’t have much to say about the decor of the em- Lauren said afterward, referring to Kazuya Kamenashi. bassy, though. When pressed if he thought it should get a Polo TOKYO — Heritage plays an important role in Ralph “After he left, we walked out and I thought, ‘Oh my God.’ makeover, Lauren smiled and said: “They did not ask me.” Lauren’s universe, which is celebrating its 40th anniver- It felt very special. I am not in the movie business, and to That night, Lauren treated his New York team to a din- sary next year. come here and get such crowds that just grew out of no- ner at the New York Grill in the Park Hyatt hotel, where On the surface, a man like Lauren would seem at odds where was quite an amazing experience.” much of “Lost in Translation” took place. Lauren was par- with Tokyo, Japan’s urban metropolis of crowded streets, a For Lauren, that moment of recognition was probably ticularly taken by the hotel’s modernist architecture and tangled infrastructure, high-tech architecture and a youth only topped by a special Shinto shrine ceremony at Tokyo’s views. “It’s powerful and bold,” he praised. that embraces every fashion craze — as long as it’s colorful central Meiji Shrine for luck, success and good health. The While the Lauren family stayed together for much of the and crazy. But Lauren, on his fi rst trip to Japan in 25 years shrine is dedicated to the spirits of Emperor Meiji, the trip, some managed to sneak off to explore the different late last month to open a fl agship on Omotesando Dori, was 122nd emperor of Japan, and his consort, Empress Shoken. facets of the Japanese metropolis. Dylan Lauren, found- a natural with the locals, who mobbed him, taking photos According to the shrine’s offi cial Web site, their souls were er of Dylan’s Candy Bar, took some time to visit the local of him with their cell phones as if he were the heartthrob enshrined there on Nov. 1, 1920. Today, it serves as a bless- Toraya factory, which has been making candy for 17 gen- member of the newest boy band. Omotesando was even ing place, and foreign dignitaries and executives have erations. Andrew Lauren, a producer of the award-winning lined in American and Japanese fl ags in his honor. passed through it, from President George W. Bush to LVMH movie “The Squid and the Whale,” also explored Tokyo on “It’s very individual here,” Lauren observed. “The young Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton chief Bernard Arnault. his own terms, checking out local boutiques and bars. people have an eclectic style. They get it when you show it “We plan to come back for the fi rst anniversary of the Before the meticulously staged ribbon cutting, which to them. They love the cinema, fashion and are happy to store and the 40th anniversary of the company next year,” came replete with a Polo consultant instructing the fam- experiment. They are absorbing and moving quickly.” Lauren told the shrine’s priest, before extending an invita- ily in which directions to wave, Lauren took a moment to The same could be said of Lauren, who had little time to tion to him to come to New York and giving him a sterling personally greet the Tokyo staff. “I have been here for four sit back and relax on this fi ve-day journey to Tokyo. A day silver box from his home collection as a gift. days and have not stopped to smell the cherry blossoms,” he in the life of Lauren there consisted of a gym session (the The priest handed Lauren and his wife a tamamushi leaf, told the staff. “I haven’t had the opportunity to do shopping. Laurens brought along their Manhattan personal trainer); which he then placed on the table in front of the shrine. Every time I want to shop, my wife gets in front of me, and breakfast; briefi ngs on the day’s schedule; several inter- “I was very moved by the experience,” Lauren recalled she does the shopping.” Plus, he added, “after you come to views with the Japanese press; trips to the fl agship for a afterward. “I remember standing in front of the steps of the this store, there’s not much else to go shop for.” fi nal polish before the ribbon cutting and opening party, shrine and having a very spiritual feeling.” These few words resulted in a lengthy speech by the which were held on March 29, and visits to local depart- As is customary, the group bowed twice, clapped twice translator, which bemused Lauren, who sighed a simple, ment stores that carry Polo. and bowed once again. This was followed by a performance “OK,” before venturing on. “He said all that?” cracked his Tokyo can be a daunting city for visitors, a notion that of four kimono-clad women in the shrine’s prayer room. The brother, Jerry Lauren, from the crowd. was perhaps most eloquently conveyed by director Sofi a Laurens took their shoes off and sat on tatami mats to enjoy When Ralph Lauren introduced his wife, Ricky, he sim- Coppola in “Lost in Translation.” Lauren, who maintains the performance, which ended with a sip of sake. “Here you ply exclaimed: “The Ricky bag.” that each collection is based on a movie that takes place in are in Tokyo, looking at all the fashion and swinging kids, “You mean the inspiration for the Ricky bag,” quipped his head, said he had too little time for any “lost” moments. and then you go to the shrine and see the tradition,” Lauren his brother. “My schedule is boom, boom, boom,” he said. “I get up, observed. “I fi nd that contrast to be very exciting.” For the opening party, the Polo team transformed the I work out in the morning and then I am on schedule. I do Lauren also met the U.S. ambassador to Japan, Thomas mansion’s fourth fl oor into a maze made from 16,000 aza- interviews, I go and see some stores and then I am working Schieffer, at the American embassy. The conversation lea branches. The maze led to four lounges decorated with on my own store, going through the details that didn’t work ranged from baseball to America’s image in the world. wicker chairs and cushions from Lauren’s home collection and how we should do it.” “Before I came here, I had watched a special program and dimly lit with Japanese lanterns. The party had the That’s not to say the trip didn’t have its share of memo- on Vietnam, hosted by Brian Williams,” Lauren recalled. feeling of a moonlit soiree in a Newport, R.I., garden. rable moments for Lauren, who was impressed by how much “Vietnam and Iraq had to have been on my mind, and we The party attracted Princess Takamado; designer the city had transformed since his last visit. talked a lot about Iraq. I am with the rest of the world and Hanae Mori; Sir Howard Stringer, chief executive offi cer “I see Ferraris and Porches on the street,” he said. “The America questioning how we are going to get out…[and] of Sony Corp.; actor Mayo Kawasaki, and comedian Key streets are fi lled with fashion-savvy kids. I really felt a dif- what the perception of Americans is. The ambassador Shimizu. “I already saw a tiny gold cocktail bag and plan ferent, interesting energy.” was thoughtful, and what he said was very stimulating. to come back in the next few days to buy it,” Mori said. The designer was particularly taken with the commo- He thought we did a lot of good things in the world, and Before long, Lauren will have to trade the sake for tion he caused on his fi rst visit to the fl agship on March America’s involvement has made a difference. vodka. In November, he and his entourage are heading to 26. “There was a young Japanese rock star in the store at “We still found no solution on Iraq,” he said. Moscow, where the designer is opening two stores. WWD, TUESDAY, APRIL 18, 2006 9 WWD.COM Ready-to-Wear Report Outerwear Labels Ready Gianni Versace’s Artistic Vision MILAN — The city of Brescia, Italy, is paying tribute to Gianni Versace’s passion for the arts and his visionary For Fall Retail Debuts designs with an exhibition that highlights the strong ties between the designer and the arts. NEW YORK — Shoppers will have lots of outerwear A leather “Versace: A Man With a Genius for Fashion and the and rainwear options this fall — thanks to Company belted Arts,” will run May 5 to Oct. 29 and will inaugurate new Ellen Tracy, George Simonton, Lilly Pulitzer and coat from galleries of the Mazzucchelli Museum in Ciliverghe di Cockpit USA. Company Mazzano, just outside Brescia, in a neo-Palladian, 18th- Company Ellen Tracy is offering an array of out- Ellen Tracy. century villa. The designer’s individual creations will be erwear — wool coats, leather and shearlings, active- paired with the artistic pieces that provided the inspira- inspired styles and even a little rainwear. Heavy on tion, making things crystal clear for visitors. color, the line is aimed at two types of customers During a presentation of the project last week, compa- — the misses’ luxe customer and Baby Boomers who ny chairman Santo Versace said, “I really believe in this are looking for modern, updated coats, said David exhibition because Gianni felt strongly about the connec- Winn, president of G-III’s Winlit division, which tion between art and fashion.” holds the outerwear license for Ellen Tracy. The display of about 30 dresses and 30 artistic pieces With wholesale prices of $100 to $250, the 60- from private and state collections will cover 3,240 square piece collection is packed with options such as a feet. “Each dress will be juxtaposed to the inspiring art slim-fi tting maxicoat, an asymmetric walking coat, work — a sculpture, a mosaic, a vase, a painting — in a fur-trimmed styles and down options. Winn ex- clean, linear way,” said Massimiliano Capella, curator of Versace’s pects Company Ellen Tracy to generate $30 million the exhibition and director of the Brescia museum. Andy at wholesale within the next three years. Pleased The pieces will be grouped in four themes, from Warhol- with the success of its Ellen Tracy outerwear, which Versace’s interpretation of antique art and the iconography inspired the company continues to produce, Winlit decided of the Medusa to that of modern and contemporary art. gown. to introduce Company Ellen Tracy outerwear with “Versace’s inspiration was transversal, from the hope of reaching a broader customer base. Renaissance, Baroque and Romantic artists, from Eugene Delacroix to Interestingly, Company Ellen Tracy sportswear is not Michelangelo Pistoletto, from Sonia Delaunay to Andy Warhol,” Capella said. currently being produced. “It’s simple to understand what inspired Versace because very often he de- Despite that, Winn said the response to the new signed with the artwork in front of him, and he named the clothes with precise coat collection is the strongest one he has seen in references to the art or the period.” his 37 years of working in the apparel business. To Examples include the Marilyn and Liz dresses inspired by Warhol, the help keep the interest going, there are plans to do Eighties metallic dresses inspired by the tops used by Renaissance warriors co-op advertising with stores. He and Donna Bonetti, under their suits of armor in paintings by Delacroix and the full skirts worn director of sales at Winlit for Ellen Tracy outerwear, with denim shirts inspired by the 19th-century Italian Romantic painter La Nouvelle Renaissance and LNR, agreed that re- Francesco Hayez. Capella noted how Versace’s ad campaigns shot by Richard tailers are looking for labels that provide popular Avedon in the early Eighties were also inspired by Delacroix.

price points. ERICKSEN KYLE PHOTO BY “Gianni Versace was also the only designer who came up with a new man- For the fi rst time in 15 years, George Simonton nequin inspired by art — precisely, by the Venus of Milo — as he hated regular is offering a fall outerwear collection called George A hooded mannequins,” Capella said. “We Simonton Luxe, consisting primarily of 12 novelty jacket will use his Venus mannequins styles of cashmere and wool coats. Embroidered from for the exhibition because these styles and fur-trimmed outerwear make up the bulk of Cockpit. are the best ones to enhance his the offerings, wholesaling for $325 to $460. “It’s for the dresses; the folds, the pleats, and woman who has a wardrobe of coats,” Simonton said. the construction of the clothes.” First-year projected wholesale volume is $2 mil- Capella noted that other mu- lion. The designer plans to host 12 trunk shows this seums have staged retrospective fall to plug the outerwear. Fifty-three stores are ex- exhibitions dedicated to fashion pected to carry it. Nordstrom plans to spotlight the and Versace’s clothes, including designer’s reversible cape in its fall catalogue, he the Victoria and Albert Museum said. Angie Powell, who replaced Judi Barken as in London and the Metropolitan sales manager last year, is handling the retail push. Museum of Art in New York. “But, Simonton will continue to produce a collection of here, for the fi rst time, we say that jackets. He said he was encouraged to venture into art and fashion collaborate togeth- coats partly because that is the specialty of his par- er,” Capella said. ent, L’Art de la Mode. “The times are ripe today – fash- “The market really needs something different,” ion has the same dignity as art and Simonton said. has its place in a museum,” said Last year, Lilly Pulitzer “tested the waters” for Capella, underscoring the strategic outerwear by selling a vest and a coat, and was so location of the museum, between encouraged by the sales that a nine-piece collection Brescia and the Lake of Garda, has been introduced for fall. A hot pink wool coat, a one of the most important Italian green suede jacket and a neon pink down vest will tourist areas, drawing as many as be among the styles sold at the company’s 75 freestanding stores and through department 800,000 people each summer. stores and specialty stores that carry the brand. A Versace gown and its inspiration. — Luisa Zargani The new outerwear is featured in the Lilly Pulitzer fall catalogue, which is distrib- uted to several hundred thousand people each season, the spokeswoman said. To play up the label’s prepster feel, the catalogue was shot amidst the Gothic buildings on the campus of Rhodes College in Memphis, a site listed on the National Register of Historic Places. The sportswear company is putting together limited advertising for this fall’s outerwear launch. Scaasi Dressing Carroll for New Cabaret The coat category isn’t the only area the brand is delving into. For the fi rst time, a holiday collection of dresses and eveningwear will be offered. Consisting of 12 styles and NEW YORK — Arnold Scaasi and Diahann wholesaling between $74 and $182, the group has an assortment of short and long formal Carroll go way back, so it’s only fi tting the de- Arnold attire. A black cocktail dress with a hot pink bow, a pink and celadon fl oral fl oor-length signer is suiting her up for her fi rst New York Scaasi’s skirt paired with a strapless celadon top and a hot pink skirt with a cropped black jacket nightclub appearance in decades. sketch for with a Peter Pan collar and rhinestone buttons are some of the offerings. Thanks to Scaasi, the singer-actress will Diahann Cockpit USA rolls out its outerwear this fall with the hopes of dressing stylishly mind- fl oat into Feinstein’s at the Regency for her Carroll. ed contemporary shoppers. The initial collection has six styles, among them a leather one-woman show wearing a translucent fl ight jacket with a fur collar and a hooded loden zip-front jacket. The label is being sold black chiffon creation. “The Life and Times to retailers, and will also be sold at the company’s freestanding store at 652 Broadway of Diahann Carroll” bows tonight and runs here and online at its new Web site, cockpit.com. The site is expected to go live in mid- through April 29. The designer said Carroll May and the women’s outerwear will be available in July or August, said Jacky Clyman, “looks divine and sounds even better.” who owns the company with her husband, Jeffrey. The pair have known each other for more Wholesale prices range from $175 to $400 and the collection is being shown at than 30 years and the musician is featured Cockpit’s showroom at 15 West 39th Street. In the next two years, the women’s business in a chapter of Scaasi’s 2004 autobiography should generate $5 million to $6 million in wholesale volume, Jacky Clyman said. “Women I Have Dressed (and Undressed!)” The pair have specialized in outerwear for years, opening the Cockpit store downtown Carroll has covered a lot of ground in her and a mail-order business in the Seventies. They also founded Avirex and earlier this career from becoming the first African- year sold the trademark to Marc Ecko Enterprises, which until that time had been licens- American woman nominated for an Oscar for ing the name. Best Actress as well as the fi rst African-American woman to have her own They have produced fl ight jackets and other items for the U.S. government off and on TV series, “Julia,” from 1968 to 1971. Others remember her mixing it up with for 25 years, Jacky Clyman said. Cockpit USA is the offi cial supplier of the leather A-2 Joan Collins on “Dynasty” in the mid-Eighties. In her new cabaret show at the jacket for the U.S. Air Force and provides outerwear for the U.S. Navy’s exchange stores. Regency, she’s expected to make mention of her Tony award-winning role as Last year, the Clymans came up with the idea to manufacture “a premium contemporary” a woman in an interracial couple in “No Strings,” as well as her experience collection called Cockpit for civilian women and men. in another Broadway show, “House of Flowers.” — Rosemary Feitelberg 10 WWD, TUESDAY, APRIL 18, 2006 WWD.COM Textile & Trade Report

Los Angeles-based designer The Libra Leather booth. Kevan Hall checking out fabrics at French vendor Le Loup Blanc during last year’s show.

Mills Counter Competition With Innovation at L.A. Show

By Khanh T.L. Tran Designer Textiles USA in San Francisco, adding that the Amanda Read, manager of the West Coast offi ce of company hopes to expand beyond the outdoor industry New York’s Nipkow & Kobelt Inc., which sources fab- LOS ANGELES — Textile companies preparing for that uses its functional cloth for jackets and base layers. rics from South Korea, said the increase in oil prices next week’s Los Angeles International Textile Show “This is our fi rst big push into creating a presence [in certainly increases the cost of the company’s fabrics. are emphasizing better quality and proprietary fab- fashion].” She acknowledged that the impact of escalating prices rics as they face continued competition from low-cost Emmie Goldenbaum, director of marketing for Robert is not immediate because there is lag time due to in- Chinese materials. Kaufman, said it is crucial for textile manufacturers to ventory levels and fi bers having been purchased for Among the new spring-summer 2007 offerings on dis- keep evolving and diversifying in order to survive. future business. play at the show — to be held at the California Market “You have to have your hand in everything to make “There are mitigating factors that hold prices down Center for three days beginning Monday — are a me- it now,” said Goldenbaum, noting that the company sup- for longer or at least keep them from escalating as dra- rino wool-silk blend from the U.S. subsidiary of New plies hospital scrubs manufacturers and the quilting in- matically, as what we see with petroleum,” Read wrote Zealand’s Designer Textiles; novelty prints on seer- dustry as well as sportswear companies. while on a business trip in South Korea. sucker and rippled gauze from Los Angeles’ Robert Goldenbaum said she has noticed a backlash against Still, as 75 percent of its goods are made of polyes- Kaufman, and snake and crocodile prints embossed on inexpensively mass-produced goods from China. ter balanced with nylon and feature novelty treatments silk taffeta woven to produce ridges imitating animal “We have a little bit of a higher price point, but peo- such as foil, glitter and nail heads, Nipkow & Kobelt has scales from France’s Bucol. ple expect quality out of us and they’re willing to pay to fl uctuate with the market. “We’re just starting to pick away at the fashion mar- it,” she said. “People want quality goods.” “There isn’t anything [other than polyester] out there ket,” said Jose Fernandez, director of North America for Sam Rojhani, sales manager for Reseda, Calif.-based that we can use for our fabrics, especially if we have to Italo Leather, which deals solely in lamb- apply treatments to them,” said Kristin Gallant, a sales skin leather from Italy, said his customers representative in Nipkow & Kobelt’s Huntington Beach, are asking for better quality leathers to be Calif., offi ce. used in garments and handbags. In the case of Designer Textiles, the knitting mill “They’re asking for different articles that must contend with the popularity of cashmere and a 7 ( are more expensive,” he said. “Also, they perception that merino wool is synonymous with itchy & $ / 7 7 & are looking for different patent leathers. sweaters. 7 & $ ( 7 &/ (& $ / 7 Patent is hot right now.” “Cashmere still carries a premium over merino &/ 7 $ ( 7 &/ (& /$ /$ &/ 7 $ ( 7 & $ John Marshall, sales manager in Los wool,” Fernandez said. & ( /$& &/ 7 7 $ $ ( / Angeles for Solstiss SAS and Bucol, said he In addition to developing a supple knit out of a ( 7 & ( ( /$ /$&/ &/ 7 (& 7 $ ( 7 7 & ( 2 $ $ 7 &/ 7 $( (&7 (&/ &/ /$ $ doesn’t feel threatened by China and India merino wool and cashmere blend that will be intro- ( $ / 7 7 $ $7( ( & &/ because he targets high-end markets for duced this summer for fall 2007, Designer Textiles of- &/ (&$ $&/ / 7 7 $ ( ( 7 ( 7 ( &/(&/$7( (&$ /$ / 7 7 $ bridal gowns, couture, designer labels and fers ultrafi ne fi bers of merino wool that are narrower 7 $ (/ / & & ($ $ / $ / $7 7(& ( ( /// / & $ Hollywood costumes. That’s not to say that than a human hair. Fernandez also hopes that merino / & $7 $/6$ $7 (&,&(& (& ( / ( / &$77 7/ 77( 7 & the brands he represents rest on their lau- wool can gain converts who like the wash-and-wear $7 & ( / /$,&7$(7;7 $(7 /$ ( 7 ( 7 & / / & 7 $ / 7 $ ( & & ( 70 $ / rels. In addition to the new animal prints, appeal of an environmentally friendly fi ber such as $ / 7 ( ( 7 &/ (& &/ (& %2'<&$5($ 7 7 $ ( 7 / Bucol also is applying fl oral prints from its merino wool. ( 7 &/ /$ $ &/ 7 $ (& 86-year-old archive on cigaline, which is “There’s a growing trend toward natural fi bers, espe- $ ( & &/ ( /$ &/ 7 &/ 7 ( ( & ( $ / made of pure silk with a honeycomb-like cially those that are sustainedly grown,” he said. ( 1/$ /"$7 Ê-"7 $7 Ê( /Ê , -7 / & & / /$ &/ 7 /$ (& ( weave. Solstiss is highlighting two-tone lace The move toward environmentally friendly, or ( 7/Ê1/1,-/ Ê/, (& & ( /$ -Ê/"7, & 7 $7 ( 7 7 ( 7 & ( /$ &/ 7 that uses different colors for the edges or green, products and businesses is a development that $ $7 /$ ( 7 & ( /$ background. could give a boost to Green-Spun Textured Knits. Jim &/ / -*",/-Ê& $7 Ê /6 7 ,/$ ( 7 & ( ( (& ( / & $7 /$ ( 7 “A lot of people are expecting lace to be Jakubecy, owner of the one-year-old company based 7 $7 (& ( / & $7 /$ $ 16ÊÊ*,"/ /"/ 7 $ 7ÊÊUÊÊ "-/1, Ê* , (& ( / & $7 really hot,” Marshall said. in Gastonia, N.C., said his fabric is made of cotton / (& $ / 7 $7 (& ( / Still, the demand for high-end materials salvaged from cutting tables, scraps, wastes and gar- 7 &/ÊÊ / ,Ê/ (& $ Ê7 Ê , -/ 7 $7 (& /$ ( 7 &/ (& $ / 7 $7 has done little to stem the pace of mill clos- ments that do not make it to the consumer. Jakubecy 7 /$ (9 ,Ê--1, 7 &/ (& $ / /$ & 7 /$ ( 7 &/ (& ings in the U.S., Europe and New Zealand said he blends the recycled cotton with acrylic or spun & ( /$ & 7 $ ( 7 &/ in the face of competition from China, India polyester to strengthen the material. The result is a 7 & ( /$ &/ 7 $ ( /$ ÜÊ ÕÃÊvÀÊ ÕÃÌÊìÛi«iÌ( 7 & ( /$ &/ 7 and other countries. U.S.-based textile sup- heathered effect, giving the textile an earthy look that & $7 /$ ( 7 & ( /$ &/ / -ÌVÊ >ÃVÊ>`Ê/iV V>ÊÌÊ>LÀVÃ& $7 /$ ( 7 & ( pliers said they also must grapple with Jakubecy claimed cannot be replicated through con- (& ( / & $7 /$ ( 7 $7"vvÊ- ÀiÊ>ÀiÌÊ*>V>}iÃÊÛ>>Li(& ( / & $7 /$ ( infl ationary pressure and high oil prices, ventional dyeing. / 7 $7 (& ( / & $7 which hit $70 a barrel on Monday, which in- “You get some very unique fabrics made with this (& $ / 7 $7 (& ( / & &/ (& $ / 7 $7 (& ( crease costs on freight and synthetic fi bers yarn,” he said. “We see a very bright future in this.” /RV$QJHOHV( 7 Ó£ÎÈÓ{ÓÈÎÎ/ (& $1HZ

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Jakob Schlaepfer’s polyester and nylon with printed sequins.

Alexander Henry’s cotton print.

NEW YORK — Expect the mood at next week’s Los Angeles International Textile Show to be soft and pretty, with lots of Symphony Fabrics’ rayon, prints. Some looks for spring 2007 will have a freewheeling polyester and Lycra spandex. Sixties vibe, while others will appear more modern, with pops of color. Special techniques include fi ls coupés in an animal skin- like motif, as well as iridescent wovens that mimic fi sh scales. Meanwhile, gentle hemp blends turn up in fabrics such as a fuzzy fl eece that are both stylish and eco-friendly.

Exotic Silks’ silk print.

D&N Textiles’ polyester and rayon jacquard.

U.S. Silk’s silk and polyester. Hemp Traders’ hemp and cotton ﬂ eece. PHOTOS BY TALAYA CENTENO; STYLED BY DANIELA GILBERT CENTENO; STYLED BY TALAYA PHOTOS BY

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Fastening Products Group © 2006 YKK (U.S.A.) Inc. YKK and Conceal are registered trademarks of YKK Corporation. www.ykk-usa.com 14 WWD, TUESDAY, APRIL 18, 2006 Dresses and Shorts Ar DRESSES AND SHORTS ARE AMONG SPRING’S Rogan are some of our best-selling denim collections,” and it’s such an easy option.” He said women were bestsellers, according to a spot check of retailers said Gilhart. wearing them during the daytime with a jacket as well throughout the U.S. who are hoping recent warm tem- Stephanie Solomon, vice president, fashion director as out in the evening. Among the top sellers are Diane peratures, especially in the Northeast, will kick-start of women’s ready-to-wear, at Bloomingdale’s, conﬁ rmed von Furstenberg, Donna Karan’s sash dresses, Gucci’s what has so far been a lackluster season. the big trends overtaking fashion this spring are shorts print dresses and Carolina Herrera’s botanical print Retailers said their customers are gravitating to city and jersey dresses. dress with a huge bow under the bustline. shorts for work, sometimes worn with a short, tailored “Diane von Furstenberg is leading the pack,” she said. Other top sellers have been cropped ﬁ tted jackets, jacket, and more casual, abbreviated cuffed versions on Solomon is also seeing strong results in dresses from bubble skirts, romantic blouses and trench coats. Coats weekends. And the dress, which hasn’t been a huge fash- Vince, Marc Jacobs, Theory, DKNY and Dana Buchman. by Junya Watanabe, Martin Grant and Tuleh are selling ion trend in years, has made a major comeback in styles Bloomingdale’s ran an ad for dresses in its New View briskly, he said. City shorts are a bestseller from Theory, from halters to trapeze, wrap to shirtdresses, as an easy department “and every one was a bestseller and had to Vince and Chanel, said Fink. spring/summer option for work and weekend parties. be reordered,” she said. Women are also wearing the “Shorts were shown on the runway very dressed up Stores are counting on a lot of action in April, consider- dresses as tunics over leggings, another hot trend, she with a pump or a sandal platform. Women are wearing ing the overall weak 1.9 percent gain in comp-store sales pointed out. them with tailored jackets, which look fantastic. They’re they achieved in March, according to the International Shorts are selling throughout every division. “Shorts also a fantastic ‘weekend, going to the club’ look.” Council of Shopping Centers. Luxury department stores are driving the contemporary business,” said Solomon, Overall, Fink said, spring sales are starting to pick remained hot in March, but specialty retailers, especially citing resources Joie, Juicy, Theory and Vince. “They up. “Spring/summer is so driven by weather. It’s more of those focused on teens, had a weak month, as did moder- range from city shorts to Bermudas to short shorts that an emotional and ‘gotta have it when the weather turns’ ate department stores, with the exception of Kohl’s. are rolled up and cuffed.” Bloomingdale’s is also selling mentality,” he said.

Diane von Theory’s city Carolina Furstenberg’s shorts are Herrera’s navy eyelet selling well black-and- wrap dress is throughout white ﬂ oral a bestseller the country. print dress this spring. with a bow is a spring bestseller.

DRESSES AND SHORTS DRIVE THE SEASON shorts from Lilly Pulitzer and Anne Klein. Solomon said COLOR CLICKS IN BOSTON “We are having a great season. It is hands down the she believes city shorts are appropriate for work, noting After typically dreary sales in March, a burst of un- season of the dress,” said Julie Gilhart, senior vice pres- that Anne Klein is offering them with a jacket as a suit. seasonably warm temperatures in early April thawed ident, fashion director at Barneys New York. Another trend is extra-long T-shirts. “We’re moving Boston area shoppers, said several boutique owners. “Because the dress silhouette this season was all away from belly-baring, skimpy tops,” she said. Solid T- “Everyone suddenly gets hit with what we call ‘ward- about ease and fullness, it can be worn by a broader shirts from James Perse are selling well. “Women are robe depression,’ and they come running out to see range of customers,” said Gilhart. Among Barneys best- wearing the extra-long Ts over leggings or skinny jeans, what’s new,” said Nilda Martin, co-owner of Parlor, sellers are styles from Lanvin, Nina Ricci, Balenciaga, maybe belted.” a new boutique in Boston’s trendy South End. Jersey Dries Van Noten and Proenza Schouler. “Anything with On the designer fl oor, Chanel continues to be a hot culottes and dropped-waist Fifties full skirts are still a fuller volume or jersey is selling,” said Gilhart. seller with its colorful tweed jackets. “All over the store, strong, but Martin has seen a shift to a Seventies-fl a- In the contemporary area, she said, “You can imagine we’re selling neutrals, but we’re selling bright, colored vored color palette. Sunshine colors like yellow, orange that Diane von Furstenberg has been tremendous. Marc jackets from Chanel,” Solomon said. Chanel is also and red-orange are paired with brown or white. by Marc Jacobs cotton dresses have had incredible suc- doing well with Bermuda shorts, she added. Ellen O’Rourke, co-owner of Melon in Concord, cess.” She noted the store’s exclusive collaboration with Michael Fink, senior fashion director of Saks Fifth Mass., said the fi rst week of April, when temperatures Daryl K 189 and CO-OP took off in all markets driven by Avenue, agreed dresses are the hot seller this season. surpassed 70 degrees in Boston, was the store’s high- “great jersey pieces.” Halter, trapeze, shirtdresses and wrap dresses are all est-revenue week in its two-year history. She’s selling “Shorts have been fast sellers in all collections,” selling well, he said. terry cloth and sheer cotton tunics from Tory Burch, said Gilhart. “We had True Religion make us a denim “At the end of every spring/summer season, we al- Bermuda shorts from Catherine Malandrino and linen short short and it sold the minute it came in. Denim ways hear we didn’t have enough dresses on the fl oor. It separates from Hartford, a French line. Petite Bateau is still being driven by the skinny jean, and Tsubi and was such a big dress season on the runways this spring, T-shirts, Habitual white jeans and twill pants from Dead WWD, TUESDAY, APRIL 18, 2006 15 re Spring’s BestsellersWWD.COM Sexy are their top-selling bottoms resources. Quinton Crenshaw, a spokesman for J.C. Penney, said, the idea of putting on a dress, how feminine it is.” One “In our sportswear business, customers have responded of Henriquez’s bestsellers has been an orange empire- CITY SHORTS SELLING IN THE SOUTHWEST very well to leggings, skinny jeans and contemporary waist cotton dress by Rebecca Taylor that has recently Spring business has been running at a good clip in dresses, which are key trends this spring. And we con- camoufl aged Gwen Stefani’s baby bump. “There are tons the Southwest. White, neutrals and prints all have been tinue to be pleased by the performance in a.n.a. and Miss of empire waists,” Henriquez said. “If you’re pregnant, important, and city shorts have been a top silhouette. Bisou, our newest private and exclusive brands in this you’re loving it this season.” “March has been dynamite,” said Bob Benham, owner area. Also, screened T-shirts and our overall offering of of Balliet’s in Oklahoma City. “I couldn’t be happier, white have been quite strong.” DRESSES, SKINNY JEANS TAKE CENTER STAGE IN L.A. and I hardly ever say that. It’s been rocking.” Balliet’s In Los Angeles, dresses and skinny jeans top the list sportswear business rose 53 percent for the year, led by NOVEL LOOKS SELLING IN D.C. AND SOUTH of hot sellers for spring. bridge and contemporary businesses. Novel touches that offer a bit of pizzazz to an outfi t, “We’re selling a lot of dresses,” said Jeannie Lee, co- “The number-one thing in sportswear is the city including ruffl es, tiered looks, chunky beads and em- owner of Satine, “and I would say that anything that’s short,” said Linda Spaeth, buyer. “Everyone can wear it. broidery, are selling well at Saks Jandel in Chevy Chase, hot right now is jersey and black.” Lee said Satine You don’t have to hem it. It’s an easy impulse buy, plus a Md., according to president Peter Marx. Top brands have has been scoring big with black dresses by Opening little new looking.” Balliet’s has also done well with nov- been Balenciaga, Yves Saint Laurent, Chloé, Alexander Ceremony and Tsumori Chisato, and baby doll and em- elty tailored shirts; ankle pants; embellished, cropped McQueen and Etro, he said. pire dresses by Jill Stuart, Sacai and Jenny Kane. or cuffed denim jeans, and dresses from sportswear col- At Certain Things in Raleigh, N.C., spring is light, Lindsay Johnson, buyer for Tracey Ross, also said lections. Customers have responded to a neutral palette airy and casual. “They’re loving the gauchos, loving the dresses are among the store’s top sellers. “We had a of nude, white and metallic silver and gold. skirts,” said owner Lu Harris. Customers are focusing small shipment of a few amazing dresses from Paco

Cuffed shorts Chanel’s Tuleh’s leather are a hot trend. colorful trenchcoat is a Here, Rebecca tweed jackets top-selling coat Taylor’s shorts continue to be at many stores. for spring. a strong seller. Here, shown with long shorts. CHANEL PHOTO BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI; TULEH BY ROBERT MITRA; SHORTS BY TALAYA CENTENO TALAYA BY MITRA; SHORTS ROBERT GIANNONI; TULEH BY GIOVANNI CHANEL PHOTO BY

At Stanley Korshak in Dallas, revenues were ahead 24 on casual and semi-casual constructed bottoms in em- Rabanne and they’re almost gone,” said Johnson. percent in March and are 15 percent up for the year. “It bellished skirts by Basil & Maude and palazzo pants, “Everything is easy, fl owy and thin this season. The only was a little slow in the beginning of March with the [er- like a linen palazzo pant from In The Wash that Harris thing that’s fi tted is the jeans.” ratic] weather, and now we’re getting a huge comeback at lauds for its feminine fi t. “They like the playfulness of At Dari, a specialty store in Studio City owned by the end,” said Rose Clark, general merchandise manager. a dressy look in a skirt, but take it down with a cotton T- Melanie Shatner, daughter of William Shatner, buyer “Spring business is very good, both in contemporary and shirt” and add cropped sweaters and shrugs. Leah Segall said dresses have been in hot demand. designer. We’re selling the whole feminine element — ap- By far, Harris’s best-selling tops line is Michael Stars. “Dresses by Shareen Downtown have sold really well pliqués, prints, bows, ruffl es and embroidery — along “We sell so much with Michael Stars, and it’s not slowing for us,” said Segall, “They’re more vintage-inspired and with neutrals and white.” Carolina Herrera’s collection down. We sell more every season,” said Harris. She said feel more like old Hollywood glamour.” has been outstanding, she noted, along with Vera Wang, customers are topping the T-shirts with cropped sweat- Rick Rodney, manager of Madison on Robertson Tuleh, Rodarte, Versace, Lanvin, Michael Kors, Charles ers and shrugs in crochet and lace, all in warm, soft Boulevard, said dresses by T-Bag, a brand that “has lots Chang Lima, Chloé, Ralph Lauren and Bogner. Korshak’s neutral golds and browns, and that spring’s crocheted of beautiful dresses with a Pucci-esque vibe,” have been best-selling labels in its trend area include Catherine looks avoid the over-embellishment of fall. selling briskly. Oversize, drapey tops and skinny jeans by J Malandrino, Just Cavalli, Red Valentino and Mint, along Just down the road, shoppers at Beanie & Cecil in Brand have been among the store’s best-selling items as well. with Habitual denim and knits by Velvet, Three Dots, Wilmington, N.C., are buying something a little bit differ- “Everyone’s doing very fl owy and colorful — but not really Rivamonte, M Missoni and Lenny. ent. “Dresses. That’s all we’re selling,” said owner Alex bright — colors, and everything’s got a retro twist,” he said. Ken Downing, senior vice president and fashion di- Henriquez. Labels Tracy Feith, Diane von Furstenberg, — Lisa Lockwood, New York; rector at Neiman Marcus, commented, “The dress, in Millie and Tibby sell well, and Chaiken cocktail dresses Katherine Bowers, Boston; Holly Haber, Dallas; various styles and silhouettes, is a favorite with our cus- with pockets have been in heavy demand. “I’m looking Evan Clark, Washington; Ann Caperton Gillett, Atlanta, tomers, followed by the skinny jean and white shirts.” around, and we don’t have any skirts. People really like and Emili Vesilind, Los Angeles 16 WWD, TUESDAY, APRIL 18, 2006 WWD.COM Juicy Couture Brings Its Cool to Japan

By Koji Hirano A sofa near the table has the words “Bloody Luxury” painted on the back, The Juicy Couture fl agship in Tokyo. TOKYO — Juicy Couture fever is heating and is positioned near two skull displays. up in Japan. The nearby Couture Couture area, which In March, the Los Angeles brand had is painted white, feels like a private a soft opening for the fi rst Juicy Couture walk-in closet. “It’s an intimate space,” fl agship in the Japanese capital’s Aoyama said Nash-Taylor. district. On Wednesday, as light pink The company did not disclose sales cherry blossoms were in full bloom in projections for the store. Paul Charron, Tokyo, Gela Nash-Taylor, who codesigns chairman and chief executive offi cer of the brand with Pamela Skaist-Levy, fl ew Juicy’s parent, Liz Claiborne Inc., who in for the boutique’s offi cial opening and was in town for the festivities, said the to meet Japan’s Juicy junkies. brand had exceeded expectations and is “I love the location in this glamorous “now a phenomenon.” atmosphere of Aoyama,” Nash-Taylor “Many people are fond of said last week, while giving a fi nal pol- Juicy Couture’s lifestyle of ish to the store’s interior. The three-story fashion, L.A. and quali- unit is located at 5-5-5 Minami Aoyama, ty,” he added, “and the within walking distance of the Prada and business increase Miu Miu stores, two of Nash-Taylor’s fa- has given us confi - vorites. “In Ginza there are so many tall dence for further Gela buildings, and Shinjuku’s atmosphere expansion.” Nash-Taylor is different from what Juicy Couture Juicy Couture is looking for,” she said. “Aoyama has a plans to launch special atmosphere. This is the place for watches, fra- Juicy Couture to show the entire world of grance and in- the brand.” fants’ and chil- The 2,400-square-foot fl agship offers dren’s wear, as women’s and men’s wear and accessories well as cosmet- such as shoes and sunglasses, as well ics and a home as fun items like dog apparel and iPod collection. cases. Juicy Couture also opened shop-in- Asked to com- shops in Yokohama, Chiba, Niigata and ment on Nash- Sapporo this spring, bringing the number Taylor’s remark in Japan to 10. Sanns Freres, the brand’s that “Liz Claiborne is Japanese distributor, hopes for 50 Juicy a sugar daddy,” Charron stores in this celebrity- and fashion-ob- laughed and explained that sessed market. the investment is very meaning- The store here has a large number of ful for the entire apparel group. “Juicy limited-edition products, such as special Couture is the explosive brand and so women’s T-shirts for 10,500 yen, or about far we managed it very well,” he said, $89 at current exchange rates; handbags adding the brand had grown from $50 for 49,350 yen, or $419; necklaces for million at wholesale at the time of 13,650 yen, or $116, and men’s polo shirts Claiborne’s 2003 acquisition to $300 for 15,750 yen, or $134. million currently. “We’ve done it with- Juicy Couture’s signature emblem out opening new points of distribution greets visitors at the glass entrance other than a couple of stores. This year, door of the off-white store. Once inside, we will open 17 shops, including fl ag- customers fi nd a large showcase table ships in San Francisco and New York. topped with the message “Smells Like Having the fl agship in Aoyama at this Couture.” Multi-colored sweets such as time means a lot.” Chupa Chups lollipops and Hershey’s Claiborne has launched several of its The men’s wear display is chocolates, as well as tea sets, are cheer- brands in Japan, but “the business is still made of tables that spell out fully displayed, creating the feel of a fun underdeveloped,” said Charron. Bringing the word “trash.” home party in California. “We are doing Juicy Couture to Japan’s fashion capital is KAZUHARU IGARASHI BY HIROAKI HORIGUCHI, NASH-TAYLOR STORE PHOTO BY what we want to do,” Nash-Taylor said. an important test for the entire group. “Everything is based on our feeling.” Nash-Taylor has been to Japan many Four hundred guests were invited to with a tiara fi t for a queen, Nash-Taylor The second fl oor boasts the world’s times since she visited Kyoto on her the “L.A. Night”-themed opening party, appeared in a white Couture Couture fi rst Juicy Couture men’s corner, a sleek honeymoon with John Taylor, and she which took place in two locations: fi rst dress, posed by a fridge packed with ed- black area featuring graphic printed gets a lot of inspiration here for new at the shop, then at a temporarily built ible treats, and mingled with Japanese shirts by John Taylor (Nash-Taylor’s products. “I want to make a sushi charm party house in front of the Memorial editors and local celebrities. On their husband and the bass player in Duran now,” she said. “I just enjoyed a green- Picture Gallery. The company hired 50 way out, guests were given a limited-edi- Duran) displayed on a big table made tea ice cream at a newly opened shop black Japanese taxis to transport revel- tion T-shirt emblazoned with the words of fi ve letters spelling the word “trash.” near here.” ers between the two sites. Accessorized “Viva la Juicy” in Japanese. Obituary Apparel Exec Michael Cohen Vogue’s Norman Waterman, 77 NEW YORK — Michael Cohen, 45, a “He approached business and life with NEW YORK — Norman Waterman, who him there and who had just become partner in Dimensions by Carl Banks a great deal of passion. I will personally served as associate publisher of Vogue president of Hachette Filipacchi, hired apparel and sales manager at Action miss him.” under four different publishers, died him to consult on George magazine. Trim, a label and hangtag supplier, died Cohen, diagnosed with cancer a year Friday of a heart attack at St. Luke’s “Norman was a great developer of tal- Saturday at Memorial Sloan-Kettering ago, “was a fi ghter to the end,” his wife Hospital. He was 77. ent,” Kliger said. “He was the person Hospital here. said. He was also a hard worker; his last Waterman worked on both sides of you’d put in charge if you wanted to The cause of death was Ewing’s day at Action Trim was last Tuesday. the fashion/advertising divide, running show a new salesperson the ropes.” sarcoma, a rare bone cancer typically “He never allowed his illness and his own ad agency for almost 20 years “His passion was helping young found in children, according to his wife, fears to erase his omnipresent smile before joining Vogue in 1985. people grow into the industry,” agreed Shannon. and friendly demeanor,” said Jonathan In the mid-Sixties, Waterman started Thomas Hartman, who worked under Prior to joining Action Trim a year ago, Spier, chief executive offi cer of Apparel his own agency, Waterman Trainello, Waterman at Vogue from 1993 to 1997 and Cohen spent eight years at Best Label, an- Holdings Group and a longtime friend of later renamed Waterman Advertising. He is now associate publisher of Gourmet. other label and hangtag house, as a sales Cohen’s. “Michael was one of the ‘good ran this company, which served mainly “You’ll see people all over whom he en- manager based in its Hong Kong offi ce. guys.’ With his untimely passing, we have fashion and fur clients, until 1983, when couraged and guided.” Besides working in the label business, lost a genuinely decent person. We will Pripps Brewery, a Swedish company, Even people above Waterman on the Cohen was a partner of former National all feel the pain of his absence.” hired him as president. corporate ladder benefi ted from his ex- Football League player Carl Banks in In addition to his wife, Cohen is sur- In 1984, he joined Vogue as advertising pertise, said Verne Westerberg, who, as Dimensions by Carl Banks, a line of ac- vived by his two-year-old twin sons, Ryan manager. In two years, Vogue’s then-pub- publisher of Vogue, was Waterman’s boss tion sports apparel that is now licensed and Phillip; his parents, Saul and Elaine lisher, Dick Shortway, had promoted him from 1988 to 1990. “Thank God Norman to G-III Apparel Group. Banks and Cohen Cohen; his brother, Allen, and his sister, to ad director, and then to associate pub- was there, because I didn’t know my way met at a basketball game about 18 years Valerie Cohen. lisher, making him one of only two people to the men’s room,” he said. ago and had been close friends and busi- Funeral services will be held today at Condé Nast with this title at the time. He is survived by his wife, Florence, ness partners ever since. at 10 a.m. at the Riverside Memorial After Waterman left Condé Nast in two children from a previous marriage “He was a great man,” Banks said. Chapel at 180 West 76th Street here. 1998, Jack Kliger, who had worked with and four grandchildren. WWD, TUESDAY, APRIL 18, 2006 17 WWD.COM Cone Denim Sets Plans Mindy Grossman Departs Nike Continued from page one teen consumer,” she said at the WWD/DNR CEO sales of $5.75 billion. Grossman replaces Tom Summit in November. “The predominately male For Nicaraguan Facility McInerney, who was promoted to IAC’S chief finan- culture that existed didn’t understand that we cial officer, and she starts in the position on May 1. could have two sides of the brand.” By Rebecca Kleinman The company in recent years has been making the Some industry watchers also speculated that transition from a holding company to an operating Grossman wanted more responsibilities at the MIAMI — International Textile Group’s Cone Denim unit is company, Diller said recently in a statement. company and was interested in the top Nike brand breaking new ground in Central America. “Mindy has proven success in running a mult- job, which became available late last year when ITG chairman Wilbur Ross and Nicaraguan President Enrique billion-dollar business and has outstanding in- co-president Mark Parker was elevated to ceo of Bolanos Geyer revealed here Monday plans for the company’s stincts in merchandising, strategy and brand Nike Inc., replacing Perez. That position went to Cone Denim operation to build a new denim facility in Nicaragua’s building,” Doug Lebda, IAC president and chief Denson, who had been the other co-president. Jorge Bolaños Abaunza Textile Park in Managua. operating offi cer, said in an interview Monday. There had been speculation that Grossman was Ross called the occasion a special day not only for the com- “She is a leading talent in the industry.” looking to leave Nike. pany but for himself. Grossman, 48, was Nike’s highest-ranking fe- “Six years is a long time for an outsider at Nike,” “During a trip to Central America in May 2004, we said we’d male executive, and under her direction the com- said Matt Powell of Princeton Retail Analysis, who build a plant,” said Ross, but this was contingent upon passage pany has been aggressively building its apparel follows the athletic business. “After a certain amount of the Central American Free Trade Agreement. “The passage of business, specifi cally its women’s offerings. In the of time, executives do what they wanted to do and are CAFTA was tough and slow, and it only passed by a slim margin.” six years since she joined looking to move on, and that Honduras and Nicaragua earlier this month joined the U.S. the Beaverton, Ore., firm, may have been the case with and El Salvador in enacting the treaty, which provides for duty- Grossman has developed and Grossman. There is no ques- free trade in apparel and textiles. The pact still needs to be imple- cultivated a team of execution that she had a strong im- mented by Guatemala and the Dominican Republic, and ratifi ed tives to oversee the growth of pact on the company. For the by Costa Rica. its apparel business, which fi rst 25 years at Nike, it was a Slated to be completed in late 2007, the more than 600,000- had sales in 2005 of $4 bil- shoe company trying to make square-foot vertical plant will produce 28 million yards of denim lion, accounting for 32 per- clothes. She showed them how annually, according to Ross. The new facility will employ 750 work- cent of Nike brand revenues. to be an apparel company.” ers, while further boosting the local economy with 8,000 to 10,000 Grossman is being re- Shanley said he was con- support positions. placed by Roger Wyett, 49, cerned that Grossman would who worked in various exec- take Nike apparel executives utive positions at Nike from with her to her new position. We supply all the biggest denim 1995 to 2000, when he left, When she joined in 2000, she “ only to rejoin last year. His brought in some key execu- vendors in the Western world…so elevation to vice president of tives who have been instru- apparel is a choice that some mental in building the wom- we’re hopeful they’ll support our industry watchers said they en’s business, he noted. found surprising. Since re- The timing of Grossman’s Central American venture. joining Nike, Wyett has been departure is also notable be- — Wilbur Ross, International” Textile Group president and chief operating cause two key Nike competi- offi cer of the fi rm’s Hurley tors — Adidas and Reebok “Our friends tell us it will be the largest structure built there,” International division, which Mindy Grossman has left — are now combined, and that said Ross of the proposed $100 million investment. is an actions sports and youth the activewear giant. fi rm is trying aggressively to Geyer described the agreement as “a great leap forward.” He brand that has estimated catch up to Nike. One key strat- said about 100,000 acres would be devoted to the venture, enough sales of about $100 million. egy of the combined group is to space to allow for the planting of cotton. “It’s a very odd choice of a replacement since elevate and pump up Reebok’s apparel operation. “It’s important that ITG, the second-largest business of its kind, apparel is such an important of the company’s Grossman’s resignation comes as Nike is focused make such an investment in Nicaragua,” said Geyer. “The whole growth strategy now,” said John Shanley, an ana- on its women’s business. The company recently plan is aimed at creating jobs, which is the only cure for poverty.” lyst with Susquehanna Research Group. “The launched a major innerwear initiative of perfor- Alejandro Arguello, minister of development, industry and whole decision on her replacement was some- mance bras and underwear for fall. The current trade, said in a statement that the investment equals 2 percent of what abrupt and not normally Nike’s way of Nike women’s athletic product in stores this sea- Nicaragua’s total annual gross domestic product. The country’s doing things. They usually take a well-thought-out son is among its most fashion-forward and features GDP was estimated to be $5.03 billion in 2005, according to the CIA strategy to fi ll holes in their management team. shrugs, corsets and skirts in performance fabrics. World Factbook. Everyone is scratching their heads since no one Grossman, a Seventh Avenue veteran who Ross said factors such as a solid workforce, a good transporta- has really heard of this guy. He doesn’t have much headed Polo Jeans before joining Nike in 2000, is tion system and an energetic public that solicited the agreement of a track record with retailers.” known for her merchandising prowess and fash- attracted ITG to Nicaragua. Other than CAFTA’s duty-free benefi ts, Nike said Wyett has more than 25 years’ expe- ion expertise, as well as her interest and experi- he said no other incentives infl uenced the company’s decision. rience in the apparel industry at Puma USA and ence in textiles and fabrics. Under her direction, John Bakane, president and chief executive offi cer of Cone Walt Disney Co. Nike rolled out new NikeWomen stores, launched Denim, said the new plant joins the company’s three denim op- Nike executives and Grossman declined to NikeWomen catalogues and started a new divi- erations in the U.S., two in Mexico and a joint venture in Turkey. comment further than a statement from Charlie sion called Fitness Dance that houses some of the Another vertical plant is under construction in Jiaxing, China, Denson, president of the Nike brand, who said: more directional Nike fashion items. and will be fi nished in early 2007. “Roger brings with him a wealth of apparel and Linda Mulcair, an apparel buyer at Paragon According to Bakane, the Nicaragua facility will concentrate branding experience gained both within Nike Inc. Sports in New York, said Nike’s women’s business on 11- to 13-oz. denim, with fancier yarn treatments. and with other leading global brands....Roger is a has “come a long way” in recent years and said “There will be fashion basics and replenishment, too,” he said. deeply respected leader who will provide a great the store does a large business with the brand. All cut-and-sew garments will be made by separately vision for the continued growth of our global Nike “I am loving what they are doing with fi tness owned vendors. The plant will specialize in moderate market brand apparel business.” dance and we combine pieces from the fi tness, fi t- prices rather than premium denim, which is produced in its Nike has had a tumultuous year on the executive ness dance and tennis collections,” she noted. Greensboro, N.C., facility, Ross noted. front. Ceo William D. Perez stepped down in January Hal Reiter, president and ceo of executive “We supply all the biggest denim vendors in the Western world after 13 months on the job. Scott Olivet, who headed search fi rm Herbert Mines Associates, said, “Mindy like Gap and Levi’s, so we’re hopeful they’ll support our Central the company’s fast-growing “other brands” division, was a trailblazer at Nike. She was the fi rst real American venture,” he said. which includes Starter, Cole Haan and Hurley, left fashion executive they had who wasn’t homegrown. Following similar agreements in Mexico, Turkey, Asia and the in October to become ceo at Oakley Inc. Even though she still dressed New York, she be- U.S., Ross said he has witnessed fi rsthand the benefi ts of provid- Grossman has had a tough trail to blaze lieved in Beaverton, and she fi t in really well. The ing fi nancial opportunity. in Nike’s historically male-oriented culture. bicoastal thing has got to be exhausting.” “This isn’t just about fabric production,” he said. “We’re giving “Initially, there was some underlying fear in some Nike shares closed down 1.79 percent at $81.81 benefi ts in wages, training and community involvement.” camps that if Nike focused and connected with Monday on the New York Stock Exchange. women, it would lose its edge with its core male — With contributions from Lisa Lockwood Berkshire Hathaway to Buy Russell Corp. for $600M NEW YORK — Berkshire Hathaway Inc. has inked a de- small Alabama apparel operation founded in 1902 to a million breakup fee. Burlington was subsequently fi nitive agreement to buy Russell Corp. for $600 million. major player in the global sporting goods marketplace bought by a consortium led by Wilbur L. Ross Jr., head Russell said in a statement that the deal, subject of today.” of W.L. Ross & Co. and of then-bankrupt Burlington’s to stockholder and regulatory approvals, is expected Warren Buffett’s Berkshire is no stranger to the ap- unsecured creditors’ committee. to close in the third quarter of 2006. Under the terms parel business. Other Berkshire holdings include Ben Bridge of the deal, shareholders will receive $18 per share in In January 2002, Berkshire received Delaware Jeweler, Benjamin Moore & Co., Borsheim’s Fine cash. Russell’s shares closed Monday at $13.30, down 25 bankruptcy court approval of its $835 million bid to Jewelry, Helzberg Diamonds, H.H. Brown Shoe Group, cents, in Big Board trading. buy then-bankrupt Fruit of the Loom. In September of The Pampered Chef and See’s Candies. Jack Ward, Russell’s chairman and chief executive the same year, Berkshire followed with the acquisition Separately, Russell announced on Monday that its offi cer, said in a statement Monday, “Russell will be bet- of Garan Inc., a manufacturer of sportswear for men, board has approved a regular quarterly dividend of 4 ter positioned against our worldwide competitors in all women and children. Berkshire subsequently offered cents a share, payable on May 24, to shareholders of three segments of our business and that includes appar- $579 million in a cash bid to buy Burlington Industries record as of May 10. The approval represents the 172nd el, sports equipment and athletic shoes. We also owe our when it was mired in bankruptcy proceedings, but consecutive quarterly dividend paid by the company, gratitude to the thousands of people who have played pulled the offer in March 2003 after the bankruptcy Russell said in a statement. roles in the development of this organization from a court shot down Berkshire’s request to be paid a $14 — Vicki M. Young 18 WWD, TUESDAY, APRIL 18, 2006 WWD.COM

defi nitely qualifi es.” Givhan, who has already enjoyed a higher profi le MEMO PAD in the past year, thanks in part to a humorous Beiersdorf Sees Sales appearance on Comedy Central’s “The Colbert GIVHAN THANKS: It only took 36 years and The Report,” in which she poked fun at Jack Abramoff’s Washington Post to do it, but a fashion critic fedora, said she hoped host Stephen Colbert had has fi nally been awarded the Pulitzer Prize. The taken notice of her win. “Maybe this will get Gaining 8% in Quarter Post’s Robin Givhan found out she had received the me invited back,” she said. “I’ve got my fi ngers Pulitzer for criticism over the crossed.” — Sara James By Melissa Drier weekend, but had to wait until Robin Givhan Monday afternoon to share the SIMPLE SOLUTIONS: Real BERLIN — Beiersdorf ’s branded consumer division got off to news. “I’m kind of fl oating,” Simple’s managing editor a “real good start” in 2006, according to Peter Nota, the firm’s she said from Washington, Kristin van Ogtrop has already board member overseeing the company’s consumer division. D.C., where she was in town fi lled the gaps left in her First-quarter sales rose a nominal 8 percent, based on pre- for the offi cial announcement masthead by the recent liminary fi gures, compared with fl at growth in the fi rst quarter in the Post’s newsroom and departures of Elizabeth of 2005. a cocktail reception later Mayhew and Jenny Rosenstrach. “We are on track with our expectations,” he said at Beiers- that night on the roof of the On Monday, she made 10 dorf ’s annual consumer division fi nancial press conference here Hay-Adams hotel. (Givhan is promotions and two new earlier this month. While fi gures have not yet been released, normally based in New York.) hires. Sarah Humphreys was based on 2005 quarterly fi gures, sales for the division are pro- “Just standing there with my promoted to special projects jected to reached approximately 1.07 billion euros, or $1.28 bil-

colleagues who’ve done such MCMULLAN JOE SCHILDHORN/PATRICK PHOTO BY director; Rachel Hardage was lion at average exchange, for the fi rst quarter ended March 31. amazing work, it’s pretty awe- named special projects editor; On a currency-adjusted basis, quarterly sales rose 5.5 percent. inspiring,” she said. In all, Elizabeth Wells and Melinda The group, which includes body and facial care under the the Post won four Pulitzers Page are now staff editors; brands Nivea, Labello, Florena, Eucerin and the La Prairie this year, the most of any Ashley Tate was promoted to Group, as well as Curad and Curitas bandages, is eyeing ac- individual publication. associate editor; Julee Wilson quisitions — particularly in its key growth markets of China, The Pulitzer has been is now fashion assistant; Russia and Brazil around since 1917, but Lisa Smith was promoted to — and is “working criticism was not a category associate research editor; on several concrete until 1970. Not a single Philip Ficks was named deputy BEAUTY BEAT projects,” said Nota. fashion critic has been named art director; Alva Polinsky is While he declined to as a fi nalist or won the award now senior accessories editor, give further details, he noted, “There are local brands to buy since then, according to and Amanda Armstrong is that are active [in these markets]. It’s not impossible. And we archives kept on Pulitzer.org. now editorial assistant. (Did don’t rule out [acquisitions] in Western Europe or worldwide, if So what did Givhan do anyone on staff not get a pay [acquisition targets] reach critical mass.” immediately after hearing and title upgrade?) The La Prairie Group, which includes Juvena, Marlies the news? “Of course, I went Two people are also joining Möller and SBT Skin Biology Therapy, has appointed Maike shopping,” she said. “I fi gure I need a new dress the magazine: Alex Ghez, formerly an editorial Kiessling managing director of its travel retail, duty-free world- for the occasion, so over the weekend, I made a assistant at Cargo, starts as special projects wide and distributor markets in the company’s Europe and little visit to Barneys.” She added, “I’ll be back assistant on May 1, and Marcus Hay, an Australian Middle East division. The new position “refl ects the group’s in New York Tuesday. There is an expensive bottle stylist, photographer, illustrator and designer, will decision to handle the travel retail and duty-free business from of champagne in my refrigerator that’s been arrive on May 8, to replace Mayhew in running the a global perspective,” the fi rm stated. waiting for a special occasion, and I think this style department. — S.J. Kiessling said La Prairie Group will intensify its efforts in travel retail. “I am delighted with this new challenge in an area which, along with the Asian region, represents our main future focus and offers huge business potential,” she said in a statement. Kiessling managed the launch of SBT, La Prairie’s newest Gap Sets Mideast Venture brand, in 2005. She joined the fi rm in 1992 after working at Estée Lauder Cos. and Parfums Christian Dior. Continued from page 2 operates about 16 moderate-price perfume and On the research and development front, Beiersdorf is work- brands. Dubai, in particular, is a world-class cosmetic stores called Areej, which are around ing to bring innovations onto the market more quickly. “We want shopping destination with some of the larg- 10,000 square feet. “The bridge to the Gap is not to concentrate on bigger innovations, and expand our portfolio est and most important shopping malls in the that vast for us,” he said. via fewer but larger projects,” Nota said. Without divulging de- world,” Schulman said in a statement, expected Al Tayer did not seem worried about Gap’s re- tails, he said he was very enthusiastic about major innovations to be released today. cent performance. “I don’t see that as a concern,” being launched in skin care for fall and hair care this summer. Under its agreement, Al Tayer Group and its he said. “There is a high level of awareness of The group is streamlining its global assortment. Worldwide, local affi liates will hold exclusive rights to oper- the brand. We also see an aggressively growing Beiersdorf has several thousand products on the market, and ate Gap and Banana Republic stores in Bahrain, retail segment,” he said, noting the region has Nota said there are plans to cut the number of available stock- Kuwait, Qatar and the United Arab Emirates, been spurred on by growth in the GDP, the popu- keeping units. For example, there are now 22 Beiersdorf lip and exclusive rights for Gap in Oman. lation, the workforce, including expatriate work- care products on the market, and “we have to decide if that’s The Al Tayer Group was established in 1979, ers, and tourism. too many. Or we can change our labeling from one to three lan- and is based in Dubai. It has interests in retail- The Saks store in China could open in two guages, and thereby cut back on the number of sku’s. We want ing, fashion, jewelry, perfume and cosmetics, or three years, as previously reported by WWD. to reduce the complexity of our assortment,” he said, “and and is involved in publishing — including Gulf David Pilnick, Saks’ vice president of interna- thereby reduce costs.” Another new focus is point-of-sale presentation. At the end of the month, Beiersdorf will unveil the fi rst Nivea Haus in There’s a tremendous amount of interest in our Hamburg. “It’s an experiment, a place to experience the brand “ and make the product tangible. And if it’s successful, we can brands from different parts of the world. imagine it in other cities,” said Nota. The number of Nivea ” shops-in-shops, with sales personnel and self-service, is being — Joshua Schulman, Gap. Inc. expanded. As reported, 2005 sales of the consumer division rose 5.2 percent to 4.04 billion euros, or $5.13 billion. Adjusted for currency News, the UAE’s largest English-language daily tional development, has been in China work- effects, consumer sales rose 4 percent. Earnings before interest paper — and the automotive sector. Al Tayer ing on the deal. Saks sees other opportunities and taxes for the division rose 7.4 percent to 465 million euros, has been immersed in luxury retailing, but in other cities in China, too. Saks reportedly is or $590 million. now has a “strategic initiative” to be a midmar- eyeing a site in Delhi, India, in another licens- ket player as well, said Khalid Al Tayer, group ing deal. general manager of business development at Al In 2003, Saks announced a strategy to build OPRAH’S PLAYBILL: It was Oscar de la Renta’s Tayer Group. a network of licensing arrangements with over- turn to shine as a guest on Oprah Winfrey’s While no locations were specifi ed, the stores seas companies. So far, only two foreign units Fashion Scoop talk show Monday, but the hostess couldn’t are all expected to be located in major malls, are operating, in Dubai and in Riyadh, Saudi resist not so subtly plugging one of her own projects…during a runway some of which are not yet open. Due to the ex- Arabia. Saks said at the time that Japan was show of the designer’s collection. Winfrey had only one thing to say about treme heat in the summer, opening on “high being considered, though the planning has a fl oor-length gown: “The Color Purple,” which not by chance is also a streets” is not practical, Al Tayer noted. He said since shifted to China. Under its licensing Broadway show she is backing as a producer. She was also unabashed his group also has rights to GapKids. deals, Saks personnel consult on the design, when de la Renta introduced his stepdaughter, Eliza Bolen, and his Under the agreement, Al Tayer owns and marketing and merchandising of the overseas adopted son, Moises de la Renta, who were seated in the audience. operates the stores, adhering to Gap store de- store, but the unit is operated and owned by “How’d you get a black son?” Winfrey asked. sign, and buys the merchandise from Gap. Gap’s the licensee. The arrangement limits the risks Later, it was the designer who delivered a few surprises while offering global offerings — certain weaves or fi ts, for of overseas expansion, but there’s also less Oprah viewers a personal tour of his Dominican Republic property. Gesturing example — are sometimes different from what profi t potential. toward the swimming pool, he said, “I have to admit, I never swim in this sells in the U.S. but there’s a “global aesthetic” As reported, Roosevelt China Investments pool. My wife keeps it so hot, it’s like swimming in consommé.” that makes Gap products recognizable the world Corp., an investment fi rm, is expected to strike a And Oscar managed to get in a plug of his own. The designer had over, Schulman explained. deal with Saks on the Shanghai site and line up been instructed by his son-in-law and company chief executive offi cer, Asked if there were other fees paid to Gap, a retailer to operate a Saks unit. In addition to Alex Bolen, to push his new bridal line, launching Monday, and de la aside from the cost of the merchandise, Al Tayer China, the Middle East and South America also Renta kept waiting for his chance — which came, thanks to Oprah said there were contractual obligations that he are considered possibilities for Saks licensed herself. “She told the audience that if she ever gets married, she’ll ask would not specify. He also said the company stores. me to do her dress,” de la Renta said by telephone after the show. WWD, TUESDAY, APRIL 18, 2006 19

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Embroidery, Lace Dress Work closely w/buyers and suppliers to develop, present and Shirts. Neimans & Sachs boutique soon to open on Notting Hill Prime Manhattan Jon 212-268-8043 in London. Please Email resume to: Search- www.manhattanoffices.com execute seasonal lines from concept thru production. Thorough [email protected] or 212-947-3400 knowl. of fabric, yarns and construction; 5+ yrs’ merchandiser [email protected] &/or buyer exp. & strong production development bkd. Must SPEC TECHNICIAN be a detail-oriented self-starter w/strong communications skills. Ladieswear co seeks someone ambi- ACCOUNTING tious and energetic. Must be able to TEXTILE SALES Women’s apparel co in NYC seeks (Jobcode: FAD502) spec and grade garments and to follow NY fabric industry leader with extensive accounting exec to oversee corp up on corrections overseas. Must have accounting, financial statement prep, line. Seeking dynamic exp’d. Salesperson exp in Mac Photoshop and Illustrator. with est’d. contacts in Evening, Junior, budgets & mgmnt reporting for sales CAD ARTISTS / DESIGNERS Fax: 212-971-0018 Grace/Becky & inventory. Must possess strong Bring your talents to our CAD team. Illustrator & PhotoShop and Missy. Fax resume to: 212-354-1950 commutation & interpersonal skills. a must, handsketching & ColourMatters a plus. SPRING FASHIONS PATTERN/SAMPLES Min 7yrs accounting exp (apparel (Jobcode FAD503) "ON THE MARKS" is "blooming" industry pref). Email resume to: with an array of opportunities. Sales Executive Reliable. High quality. Low cost. Fast [email protected] work. Small/ Lrg production 212-629-4808 We’re a great company offering attractive compensation/ The following is a sample. Est’d knit co. looking for that special ADMIN Asst to Pres-2+ yrs exp w/a benefits. Refer to Jobcode & include salary requirements TEMPORARY someone to move our missy/contemp. PATTERNS, SAMPLES, soft goods mfr nec/asst the Pres/know * Showroom Sales-- experienced line of knits/swtrs/jkts/skts. Biz w/ Excel & Word/speak Eng well. $31-35K when applying. All inquiries are confidential. wholesale-- $20.00 p/h dept. & chain stores only --- salary plus PRODUCTIONS Les Richards Agcy Call (212) 221-0870 * Graphic Design--APPAREL ONLY comm. All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. children’s pref. $40.00 p/h Email: [email protected] Call Sherry 212-719-0622. Admin Since 1967 F: 212-221-3857 E: [email protected] * Receptionist-- Temp to direct hire W-I-N-S-T-O-N * Design Assistant-- Temp to direct hire PATTERNS, SAMPLES, Production DIRECT HIRE SALES REP WANTED PRODUCTIONS APPAREL STAFFING DESIGNER * Exec. Asst to Pres. FASHION to 55K Sales Rep needed for High-End hat DESIGN * SALES * MERCH Fabric Industry leader looking for organ- ASSISTANT PRODUCTION * Allocator-- to 45K line. Contacts a must. Email resume/ Full service shop to the trade. references to [email protected] Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. ADMIN * TECH * PRODUCTION ized, motivated, creative talent, to design * Production Coord.-- to 60K (212)557-5000 F: (212)986-8437 seasonal dress fabric line. Previous design COORDINATOR These and many more oppty’s.. experience required. Fantastic working MAGASCHONI APPAREL GROUP Email to [email protected] APPAREL JOBS environment. Fax resumes: 212-354-1950 or fax to 212-532-6892 1)Artists: Girls-Boys-Juniors 2)Technicals is seeking candidates w/2 yrs exp. in 3)Designers-assoc-assist.boy-girl-YG men-Jr production. Must be highly motivated, Call (212) 643-8090 or fax: 643-8127 (agcy) computer literate, detail oriented TD MANAGER $130K FIT MODEL in production. Must have good Fast pace womens wear mfr seeks in Runway Edgy Designer. Supervise 1. communication skills and be well [email protected] or 212-947-3400 ASSISTANT DESIGNER house size 8 model with the following organized. Must follow up in all phases Leading better separates co. looking for measurements. There will be clerical of production. Pls email resumes to: High-End Men’s Clothing Co. organized, motivated, creative firecracker duties. Must have computer skills [email protected] Tech Designer willing to do whatever it takes. Must including Excel. Salary low 60’s. Secaucus co. seeks Tech Designer full- seeks SALES ASSOCIATE have 2 yrs exp working with China, Height 5’ 7" to 5’8" fashion sweaters; cut & sew knits. drawing skills, spec, sketch, technical Bust/ chest - 36" with bra B/C cup Must have complete knwldg sweaters, Must be motivated professional packages, EMB layouts. Waist - 28 1/2" yarns, stitches. Must be exp’d in w/ 2-5 yrs or retail sales exp. Fax resume to: 212-302-3872 / Natasha High Hip - 3 1/2" below waist 35 1/2" PRODUCTION specing, fittings, grading, comn w/ Low Hip - 7 1/2" below waist 38 1/2" vendors. Excel, & Illustrator exp. a Men’s clothing exp. a plus. ASSISTANT Thigh - 22 1/2" - 22 3/4" COORDINATOR must. 5 yrs exp. Salary commensurate We offer competitive salary, Muscle - 11 1/2" - 12" Leading garment importer seeks an with exp. FULL TIME. benefits + bonus. Candidates Nyc Denim Manufacture seeking full Total Rise 27 1/4" organized and self-motivated applicant Fax Dir Tech Design: 201-866-0387 time logistics assistant, chinese language Fax resume: Attn FM (212) 827-3344 with 3 yrs experience in ladies woven/ please E-mail resumes to: a plus. Please email resumes to: knit garment production. Must be PC [email protected] Technical Design Asst [email protected] KNITWEAR literate (Excel, Word, Photoshop) req’d. Leading Woman’s Apparel Co seeks Please fax resume & salary Technical Designer for upscale sports- Asst Designer Childrenswear TECH DESIGNER requirements to: 212-869-8961 wear line. Min 1-2 yrs exp in garment 2 Yrs experience. required. Must have Contemporary driven sportswear construction w/ knowledge of Illustra- strong computer skills on a Mac using company seeks tech designer for tor / Photoshop; Fabria a plus. Must Illustrator and Photoshop. Fax resume to: sweater division. Must have strong have strong tech background in woven 212 564 9507 Attn: EFK knowledge of yarns and stitches and knits / sweaters. Must be detail oriented be able to prepare tech packages to Production Manager and have excellent communication CAD DESIGNER overseas factories. Will followup with Est’d. Dress/Sportswear Co. is seeking an skills. Desirable atmosphere and work Leading Women’s woven and knits tops development and production samples. exp’d., organized individual with strong environment. Great benefits package. company is looking for a CAD Designer. Fax resume to 212-382-0237. Import & Domestic knowledge. Must also Pls fax resume HR Mgr 212-354-3051. Knowledge of Primavision a must. Will know computer, costing, and production work directly w/ designer & merchandiser. schedules. Fax resume: 516-829-7881 Textile Cad Artist Experience required on technical MINNESOTA RELO * Trim Developer $85-95K Expert in Photoshop 2 + years sketches, recoloration, developing new exp, textile design skills a must. artwork and creating line sheets. Must * Senior Fabric R&D $75-95K [email protected] 212-947-3400 Sal + ben. Fax resume 212-947-4501 be organized and detail oriented. Email: [email protected] Please email or fax resume to MM: PRODUCTION [email protected] MIS/IT/NETWORK/PC PATTERNMAKER fax 1-212-382-1469 WORKING MANAGER [email protected] BRIDGE DRESS COLLECTION TEXTILE INDUSTRY 800-544-5878 Division of a major apparel mfr. * Sales Manager $70-90K Design Associate specializing in bridge price point Client Relations. 7-10 Years Exp. Seeking highly creative and motivated dresses & separates seeks a NY based * Sales Asst Bi-Ling Japanese $35-45K design associate to join our team and OPERATIONS MANAGER exp’d production patternmaker to service [email protected] or 212-947-3400 be responsible for creating a line of Apparel and accessories distributor one of our private label retail clients. girls knit and woven tops for mass seeks an experienced team leader to Must posses the ability to interface w/ market. Candidate must be well organized, oversee warehouse operations, sys- our head designer, make production detail oriented and have excellent tems, customer service, traffic and patterns, conduct fittings w/ our retail TEXTILE PRODUCTION execution skills with at least 3 years office. Able to solve ongoing issues client, & communicate via e-mail w/ Fast paced established Textile converter/ experience. Must also have experience relating to all aspects of the growing our client & overseas office in HK / importer seeks exp’d. Production Coordi- Design Hell..p! in updated tween looks, shopping fast-paced business. Computer literate China. Potential for some patterns to nator to work with international mills. market trends, interpreting and devel- a must. Fax resume 212-398-4040 or be made on computer pattern making Organized, team player, detail oriented, Digital Arts Boot Camp Training oping a line in a timely matter, must E-mail [email protected] (Lectra) but must have upscale table computer skills. Fax resume: 212-354-1950 Photoshop and Illustrator understand garment construction. production patternmaking exp. as well. customized to the artistry Execellent skills required for internal PLANNER Excellent opportunity for a growing and external communication domestic Intimate Apparel Co seeks planner for business! Benefits / 401K. Please reply of your design specialization and overseas. sales forecasting and analysis, fore- with salary requirements. Fax in PLEASE FAX RESUME TO:212-444-6019 casting production needs, maintaining confidence to HR: 201 964 5892. Call 212-244-1435 and controlling stock / sku ratios. DESIGNER $100K Retail and / or wholesale planning exp Mod Sportswear-Full Collection and advanced Microsoft Excel skills a Sweater/Knits/Wovens must. Must be organized and detail RECEPTIONIST/ oriented. Salary commensurate with DESIGNER ASSOC $50K experience. Please send resume: FIT MODEL Wovens/Denims. Flat Sketch E-mail: [email protected] or Established Dress company looking for [email protected] 212-947-3400 Fax: 212-842-4050 EOE a professional receptionist/fit model. The DESIGNER ...... 90K + Ideal Candidate will be a size 8, with a NEED Headwear LA loc major co pleasant voice & demeanor. Duties will PLANNER TO $80K include answering phones, greeting Minard Frischer Sri Search 800-950-8382 NYC Based Retailer. Immed Hire! FINANCING [email protected] customers, handling incoming/outgoing [email protected] packages, ordering supplies and fitting Starting your own Designer dresses as required; Computer skills Better womens import manufacturer PROD’N MGR $80-125K and MS-Office a must. Email resumes of woven shirts and sportswear seeks: Runway Designer. Run 3 Factories and salary requirements in confidence to: business Associate Designer with Must Be Able to Cost Garments [email protected] Trying to grow CAD Experience [email protected] or 212-947-3400 Candidate will work w/Design Director, PRODUCTION/2 OPENINGS your company be organized & able to work w/a diverse DENIM + SOURCING/$100K RECEPTIONIST/OFFICE ASST. customer base. Responsibilities include (1) Dgnr Ladies Young Contemp den- Leading handbag mfr seeks bright sketching / line plans / presentations / im based collection with knits/wovens. If you are starting out or struggling energetic individual to manage front fabric development. Experience w/ (2) Young Men’s "Skate" line. desk & clerical duties for busy showroom. with financing sourcing and logistics, Primavision graphics/weave & Color Required: Stong denim sourcing & we may have your answer. We are Must be detail-oriented and able to Matters 32 is A+. Photoshop & Illustrator costing knowledge for both. work in fast paced environment. looking to build partnerships with experience is needed. E-mail resume: [email protected] emerging fashion companies to grow Computer skills required. Please fax resume with salary (Fax) 917-591-2521 (Tel) 212-532-5313 Fax resume to: 212-679-0311 brands and will provide financing and requirements to: (212) 328-1230 the expertise for sampling, sourcing, QC, production, shipping, distribution PRODUCTION ASSISTANT and factoring. Say goodbye to time MAXX NEW YORK HANDBAGS is Sales Executive spent with banks and on back office DESIGNER seeking experienced, energetic functions. Utilize your time designing, Contemporary sportswear and dress co individual to assist production manager. SALESVIVIENNE ASSISTANT TAM selling and marketing to grow your seeks hip fashionable designer to develop Candidate must be detail oriented, SeekingFast growing a highly young motivated, contemporary energetic Denim business. complete collection of wovens, knits have good communication skills, able Co.sales seeks professional an expd. with Sales min Asst. 2 yrs to work sell- and dresses for major department to work in fast paced environment to wing/Acct. exp. Exec. & contemp. Must be detail background oriented w/in Please email a brief outline of your stores. Must have contemporary or handle follow up with all phases of excellentsportswear communication & dresses. Must & have follow-up good business including contact person designer background. Must have production dept. Computer skills req. skills,relationships and proficient w/ specialty in Excel/MS stores. Word. and phone number to: knowledge of flat pattern and draping. Adobe photo shop a plus! PleaseE-mail Fax resume or E-mail w/ header all resumesSALES to: to: [email protected] Fax resume to 212-382-0237. Fax res. 212-679-0311 [email protected] / [email protected] modern 06.

Tuxedo-style dress by Alice Roi. Fabric by Cotton. www.cottoninc.com AMERICA’S COTTON PRODUCERS AND IMPORTERS. ® Registered Service Mark/Trademark of Cotton Incorporated. © Incorporated, 20 Service Mark/Trademark ® Registered COTTON PRODUCERS AND IMPORTERS. AMERICA’S