sign in sign up
<<
Home , Bayadere (fabric), Blouson, Charmeuse, Duffel coat, Foulard, Jabot (neckwear)

1

CAFD STUDENT HANDBOOK

A Guide to Fashion Terms and Resources

TABLE OF CONTENTS

4 WELCOME TO CAFD 4 Tips for Managing Your Time

5 FASHION TERMS 5 Silhouettes 6 7 8 9 & Tops 11 12 Pants & 14 Collars 16 17 Cuffs 17 18 Waistlines 19 19 Belts 20 22 Heels

23 TERMS 23 25 2 26 27 28 Synthetics 29 Weaves/Finishes 30 Plaids 30 Stripes 31 Prints

32 RESOURCES 32 Art Supplies 32 Crafts 33 Fabrics 34 Supplies 34 Sewing Machine Supplies 35 Tailoring Supplies 35

36 FASHION WEBSITES 36 Web’zines 36 Fashion Designers 37 38 Fabrics 38 Textile Arts Supplies

WELCOME TO CAFD

We are very honored to welcome you to the Fashion programme at the Caribbean Academy of Fashion & Design at UTT. This handbook has been compiled with information to help you with your programme of study. A mini lexicon of fashion and textile terms will help you develop a fashion vocabulary, the resource guide is there to help in your quest for supplies and materials for your projects and, finally, a listing of internet sites is there to help you connect with fashion information and resources throughout the world.

The year ahead at CAFD is like no other. It is a year that will surely fascinate, fatigue, excite, crush, exhilarate, disappoint, push you to your limits and, most importantly, take you one small step closer to your dreams. And yes, there will be times when you feel used and abused, overwhelmed and overworked. And though you may not appreciate it right away, all of this will help you to develop a critical eye and a professional discipline which will make you a valuable asset to the local and international marketplace.

The year ahead will be a rewarding one....but at a price. Time, a precious and fleeting commodity, will seem in short supply over the next several months. Making the best of what little time there is to complete your studies is crucial to your success. The work load is intense and at times, the deadlines will seem short and brutal. However if you learn to manage your time, you will reap the benefits of all there is to learn and get the most of the coming year.

Tips for Managing Your Time During the Year to Come

Make a List 3 If you tend to put things off until later, you're losing time. When you're disorganized, you rush, and as a result, you make more mistakes, you forget things, stress out. Make a list of all of your tasks and goals for this semester. This includes your classes, activities, and job responsibilities.

Chart your tasks Next, buy whatever calendar or organizer you. Anything will work, from a day planner, a wall calendar, a calendar program on your computer. Make a note of your project deadlines, exams, exceptional events and schedules on your calendar. Holidays and social events should be mapped out all the way to the end of the semester. Next, prioritize your list of tasks. For example, your number one task would be "A" in Design Studio or Marketing class.

Plot Your Time After you've prioritized these tasks, take each one separately and estimate how long it will take you to accomplish. If you want that A, you'll need to get an A on almost every project. Look at project deadlines and estimate how many hours you'll need to execute it perfectly. Once you estimate the time it will take, double it because things usually take twice as long as you anticipate, AND accidents do happen. So give yourself plenty of time to complete each task.

Looking at the deadlines on your calendar, work backwards, blocking out the time you've estimated for each task. Do this day by day, week by week. Break stretches of time into smaller chunks you can handle.

Take a Break From time to time, schedule breaks from studying to give your mind and body a rest. Get up. Go for a walk. Listen to music. a little TV. Have a snack. You’ll feel refreshed and ready to continue on with your homework.

Be Good to Yourself If you have a problem getting or staying motivated for school work, set up a system of rewards that works for you. If you hate sewing, do that homework first, then treat yourself with your favorite subject last and have a piece of fruit or a dish of ice cream as an extra treat.

As you get more in tune with your schedule, you'll discover your weaknesses and will figure out how to overcome them. Then you'll begin to use your strengths to your own advantage. You'll learn to juggle priorities so that everything gets done on time and to the best of your ability.

4

FASHION TERMS

SILHOUETTES Long torso. Closely fitted silhouette to a low ; in circular, pleated, or A-line or trapeze. Garment shaped away straight style. from the body, flared to of skirt like the letter A, usually with narrow Maxi. Long, ankle length silhouettes shoulders; one of the most prevalent introduced in the late 60's particularly for silhouettes during the 60's, originated by coats and skirts. in the late 50's. Midi. Mid-calf length introduced in the Asymmetric. Silhouette not identical on late 60's. both sides of a central line which lacks symmetry. Mini. Mid-thigh length popular in the 60's, revived in the mid 80's. Baby-doll. Garment which is puffed out from or with a shoulder and Micro. Super short, above mid-thigh has an undefined waistline; styled after length popular in the early 70's, revived in children's and infant's dresses of the 30's. the late 80's.

Blouson. a woman's garment with a Poor-boy. Descriptive term used in the drawstring, , or similar closing at or mid-60's referring to type of shrunken, below the that makes the fabric casual clothing influenced by that worn by above it newsboys in the early 20th century. 5 Carnaby Street or "" look. A Tiered: Silhouettes composed of a series prevalent look during the era of the of flounces as seen in silhouettes worn in Beatles. Named after a famous street in the 30's. London, where many small boutiques selling the first mini-skirts, granny Unisex: Style introduced in the mid 60's dresses, and in the that saw identical fashions: , pants, early 60's catered to avant-garde young jackets, etc. worn by both men and customers. women, often sold in the same shop.

Dandy. Term used from early 19th COATS century on for a man excessively fond of clothes, exemplified by Beau Brummell A-line, tent or trapeze c. Coats cut and Compte d'Orsay, where were great narrow at the shoulders, flaring gently influences on men's fashions in England from a small bust to the hem like the letter and France. A.

Flapper look. Term used to describe a . 1) Coat an attached or look prevalent in the 20's when young separate cape. 2) Combination of cape women wore lipstick, makeup, bobbed and coat, the back falling like a cape, the hair, short skirts in straight, fluid front with sleeves and cut more like a silhouettes and long strand of pearls. classic coat.

Hour-glass. Woman's fitted shape . , cut in hip or 3/4 which accentuates a full , pinched length; comfortable for driving a car and in , and full curving hips. popular with suburbanites in the late 50's and 60's.

Redingote. 1) Slightly fitted coat matched Chesterfield. Classic style with semi- to a dress to make anensemble. 2) An A- fitted body, single or double breasted line coat. front, black and sometimes a front closing. Introduced in the 1840's Safari coat. Cut the same as safari by the fourth Earl of Chesterfield. Swagger coat. Pyramid shaped woman's Cutaway. Man's formal black one coat with flared bias back, usually with jacket with notched , skirt cut away raglan sleeves and large saucer shaped from the waist in front to knees in back in attached by fabric cord popular in slating line, back vent topped by two the 1930's and 70's. buttons; worn with and striped in the daytime. Called morning Swallow tailed coat. Man's formal black coat. From 19th century riding coats coat, open to waist in front, cut away made by cutting away fronts of to back of knees, the long vent to waist in coats instead of folding the skirts back for back giving the appearance of a horseback riding. swallow's tail. Also called "tails".

Dirndl coat. Woman's coat with a fitted . Long, double-breasted torso, and a low, gathered waistline; cloth coat with epaulets, a loose shoulder popular in the mid-1960's. yoke, slotted pockets, and buckled belt. Originally designed for military use in the . Short woolen 3/4 coat with a trenches of World War I which later and fastened with toggles rather became a classic all purpose coat after than buttons; worn by men in British navy 1940 sparked by the movie spy image of during World War II, adapted as a sport stars like Humphrey Bogart, Katherine coat for men and women in 1950's. Hepburn. 6

Duster. Woman's loose, lightweight -coat. Coat made without buttons or dress-length coat, usually made of silk in front, held together with long faille or . Popular in the early self-fabric . days of open automobiles to protect the clothing from dust. JACKETS

Greatcoat. Heavy voluminous Battle jacket. Copies of waist length originally with fur . Army jacket worn in World War II, having two breast pockets, fitted , Princess coat. Woman's fitted coat cut in zippered fly front, and turn down collar. long panels with no at the waistline, Also called . flaring toward the hem, usually single- breasted. . Lightweight sport coat, semi- fitted, single breasted with two or three Raglan coat. Long, loose coat that has patch pockets, often with embroidered wide sleeves cut in one with the emblem on left chest, metal buttons. shoulders with seams slanting from neck to underarm. From a coat designed for . Jacket with bloused effect at a the Earl of Raglan who lost an arm in the normal or low waistline, either gathered Crimean War (1854) and needed an into flat waistband or pulled in by a easier . drawstring.

Bolero. Waist length or above the waist jacket usually collarless and often sleeveless, with rounded front corners and no fastenings: copied from the Man-tailored jacket. Woman's jacket Spanish bull-fighter's embroidered jacket tailored like a man's . and worn by women since late 19th Introduced in 1890's. center. Nehru j. Single breasted jacket, slightly fitted, with a standing band collar; Bomber. A waist length jacket worn by introduced in late 1960's, inspired from the U.S. Air Force pilots. Usually made of coats worn by Indian maharajahs. leather with sheepskin collar and cuffs. . Hip length jacket of wind-proof, Box jacket. Any straight, unfitted jacket water-repellent fabrics with attached waist length or longer; popular in the hood. Adapted from hooded fur jacket 1940's and 50's as women's suit or dress worn by the Eskimos. jacket. Peacoat. Copy of US sailor's hip length, Bush jacket. Jacket originally worn in straight, double breasted navy-blue wool Africa on hunting expedition. Made of coat with notched , vertical slash khaki cotton with notched lapels, single pockets, and vent in back. Part of St. breasted front, belt, and four large Laurent's in the 1960's. bellows pockets. Also called and made popular by St. Laurent. Tuxedo jacket. Semi-formal evening jacket with collar usually faced with , . Front closing jacket with no faille, or other contrasting fabric. Named collar, usually buttoned. after the Tuxedo Park Country Club near Tuxedo Lake, N.Y. in the late 1890's. Chinese or mandarin jacket. Hip length. quilted jacket with standing Chinese or DRESSES 7 Mao collar, fastened down from with frogs. A-line or trapeze. Dress style flaring gently from the bust to bottom of skirts Edwardian jacket. Fitted jacket with with usually shoulders. Introduced by Dior some flare in back, side vents or center in 1955. back vent, frequently with a rolled over collar that extends high at back of neck Baby doll or smock dress. Woman's and around the ears. dress cut like a smock, with a high neckline and yoke, similar to children's . Waist length jacket, and infant's dresses of the 1930's and sometimes made of leather and worn by reintroduced in 1970 by Cacharel. commercial airline pilots. It first worn by US Army Air Corps pilots in World War II, Bare- dress. Fashion originating then adapted for in the in tropical countries consisting of two 1960's. piece dress with ending under the bust, baring the ribs, skirt starting at Hunting jacket. Bright red, fitted, single waistline or low-slung; introduced in the breasted jacket with collar and lapels; US in the 30's and revived in the 60's and worn at formal hunt meets. 70's following interest in East Indian fashions then again in the '90s Lumber jacket. Waist-length bloused jacket made of plaid wool, with rib-knitted Bouffant dress. Dress with tight fitting band at waist and often at sleeves; and full gathered, pleated or originally worn by woodsmen in the ruffled skirt or a skirt shaped like a lumbering trade. bubble, a bell, or a cone that may be worn with hoops or . Popular in but pulled slightly into the body with long, 1830's and reintroduced in 1950's for vertical darts in the front and back. prom dresses and again in 1980's by Lacroix. Shift dress. Straight lined basic dress of the 1960's hanging away from body, Caftan. Near East native full length similar to dress but slightly fitted with around the neckline and by diagonal darts. front slit closing, introduced for Western women in dress lengths in same style as dress. Straight dress cut like a worn in Morocco in 1967. man's shirt, buttoning down front, sometimes with hem slit and rounded at Cage dress. Made in two layers, inner sides like tails of a man's shirt. layer opaque and cut close to body, outer layer of sheer or lattice fabric hanging Shirtwaist dress. Dress with top styled loosely; introduced in 1965 by YSL; like tailored shirt, usually buttoned from similar to dresses by Balenciaga in the neck to waist , with either a full or straight 40's. skirt; introduced in the 30's and 40's now a classic. Cardigan dress. Front buttoned coat dress similar to long cardigan . dress. Simple bias cut dress with fitted top, over shoulders and no Chemise or sack dress. Straight cut waistline, a revival of the bias cut dress of dress with few darts and no waistline. the 20's and 30's. Introduced in 1957 by Givenchy. Suit dress. Term used in the 1960's for a Coat dress. Dress fastened down front jacket and dress ensemble which from neck to hem, like a coat in double or resembles a tailored suit. 8 single breasted style; a classic since the 30's. . Pyramid shaped dress with fullness starting at neckline and flaring to Kimono dress. Wrap-around collarless hem, sometimes accordion pleated. coat dress held in place with a wide sash, Introduced by Cardin in 1967. adapted from the classic Japanese kimono. T-shirt dress. Simple knit dress styled like an elongated T-shirt. Peasant dress. Native dress of farm women in Europe consisting of snug dress. Two piece dress with a long bodice, gathered skirt, puffed sleeves, over-blouse worn over a separate narrow and drawstring neckline. skirt or one piece dress designed to give this effect. Princess dress. Dress cut with bodice and skirt all in one, fitted by front and . Dress fastened by wrapping back side seams from shoulder to hem. half of a double front or back across to the opposite side and securing with a tie dress. Strapless, loose dress or by button. that wraps around the body like a skirt. From native dress of Polynesian women, popularized by actress Dorothy Lamour in BLOUSES AND TOPS the 30's and 40's. Bare midriff top. Top cropped below . Straight, narrow fitted bust, baring rib cage. dress, usually with no marked waistline

Body shirt.. Form fitting blouse with pant 7 eastern schools. Shirt has section attached. Opening snaps together button down or eyelet collar, back yoke at the crotch. Popular with women in the with and is usually made of 60's particularly with . cloth or chambray. Popular in 1950's and 80's. Bow blouse. Blouse with band around neck having tow long ends in front that tie blouse. Blouse of thin, often in a bow. transparent material imitating lingerie's fine tucking, , narrow inserts, top. Brief top of minimum fabric ruffles and fagoting (open-work) shaped like a bra. Middy or sailor blouse. Slip-on blouse . Strapless top, either held in of blue or white duck, usually with a place by an elasticized shirring or made sailor collar that hangs square in the of a stretchy, clinging knit. Also called a back, tapers to a V in the front, often has . Stylish in the 1950's, 70's, 80's. an insignia on the left sleeve and a loop at the V of the collar. . Waist length gathered top with Peasant or gypsy b. Folkloric woman's straps, usually trimmed with lace or blouse inspired by those found in embroidery. Rumania, Poland, Sweden, etc.

Cossack. Blouse with high stand-up Peasant. Style adapted from European collar, side closing, full sleeves and peasant groups; gathered at neckline and embroidered band trim. Blouse originally sleeve edge; frequently trimmed with worn by Russian cossacks (horsemen). embroidery and other rich trims. Also Made famous by movie, Dr. Zhivago in called gypsy blouse.. the 1960's. 9 . Pullover knit shirt in plain Dandy blouse. Ruffled trimmed blouse colors or stripes, copied from the white, reminiscent of dandy styles of the early short-sleeved, shirts worn by 19th century. polo players, popular for sportswear since the 1930's. Dashiki. Adapted from shirt often worn by African men. Usually collarless, with full Shell. Plain., sleeveless blouse with jewel body and full flowing sleeves. neckline worn by women; made of knitted Fashionable in late 1960's. or ; a classic style worn under suits from 1950-80 or worn with Drawstring blouse. Blouse that fastens coordinating skirts and pants. at neckline with drawstring like that of gypsy or peasant blouse. Sweatshirt. Long-sleeved fleece backed cotton knit pullover or zipped front shirt Halter top. Bodice with front supported with ribbed crew or turtleneck, cuffs, and by tie or around the neck, leaving waistband, sometimes with attached the back bare. hood.

Hawaiian shirt. Boxy over-shirt made of Tank top. Similar to man's with large floral print cotton with front button U neckline and deep arm holes shaped closing and convertible collar. Introduced toward shoulder to form narrow straps. for men in the 1940's. T-shirt. Basic knit pull on shirt with round Ivy Leage or Oxford shirt. Named after neck and sleeves set in at right angles the shirts worn by men who attended the forming a T.

Tunic. Wrist length or mid-thigh length Straight. Fitted, slim, often called a over-blouse of woven or . sheath or tapered skirt.

Wrap blouse. Blouse made with two low Swing skirt. Flared skirt, circular or cut in cut front sections extended into long sash gores, fitted at hips with a wide flare at ends, crossed and wrap-tied around the the hem; popular in the late 30's. waist. Torso skirt. Skirt with fitted yoke to hips, SKIRTS flared or gathered below.

Bell. Skirt flared widely from a narrow Trumpet skirt. Straight lined skirt with waist, forming a bell shape. one large circular flounce at the hem, flaring like an inverted trumpet. Bubble or tulip skirt.. Skirt gathered to small waistline, ballooning out and Wrap skirt. A skirt open from waist to tapered in at hem. hem, wrapped around the body and fastened by buttons or ties, usually Circle skirt. Skirt made of a complete lapped across the front or back. circle of fabric with smaller circle cut in center for waistline or skirt made of two or PLEATED SKIRTS four large segments of circles giving a small waist and very wide . Accordion. Narrow pressed in , similar to the folds of the bellows of an . Underskirt made of stiffened accordion. fabric, which holds out the main skirt. Box. Double pleat formed by two 10 . Skirt divided in two sections for folds meeting in center underneath the legs, so that it is actually a pair of pants pleat. but looks like a skirt when not in motion. Flat. Simple pleat formed by a single fold Dirndl. Skirt, full and gathered into band of fabric. at waist, popular in 40's and 50's Inverted. Reversed box pleat with folds Full . A skirt that is gathered or flared so meeting on top of the pleat. that hem is much wider than hipline. Knife pleat. Narrow sharply pressed flat Hip-hugger skirt. Any skirt that rides low pleats going in same direction. on hips below the natural waistline. Sunburst or fan pleats Pressed in pleats Kilt. Traditional Scottish knife pleated similar to accordion, narrow at the top wrapped skirt of with flat and wider at hem giving flare to skirt. front wrapped to the side, edge often fringed, and held with leather straps at SKIRT LENGTHS top and a large brooch near the hem. Ballerina: mid-calf length Peasant skirt. Full gathered skirt, often trimmed with bright colored embroidered Cocktail 1-3 inches below the knee. , copying native of European peasants. Formal: Ankle or just covering instep . Sarong. Wrapped skirt. Granny: ankle length

Chaps. Leather or shearling covering for Maxi: hemline at ankle or just covering front part of legs, worn over pants for instep. protection by cowboys.

Micro-mini: thigh length City Pants. Term coined by Women's Wear Daily in 1968 for women's trousers Midi: mid-calf considered suitable for wear in town instead of for sportswear. Mini: 4 inches above the knee or higher. Clam diggers. Snug fitting calf length PANTS & SHORTS pants, originating from cut-off worn while wading to dig for clams and Baggies. Wide at the hip and narrow at adopted for sportswear in the 1950's. the ankle. Width at the hip frequently achieved by waist tucks; popular in the Culottes. Trousers that resemble a 1980's. divided skirt worn in the 1930's, 40's and 60's. Bell bottom. 1) Traditional white or navy trousers worn by the seamen in the US Elephant bells. Long trousers with Navy, cut wide at the hem to facilitate extremely full legs, sometimes cuffed, rolling up for deck work; 2) Pants cut covering the shoes introduced in the late flared from knee down to give a bell 1960's. shape at the hem. Fatiques. Name given to pants worn by . Just-above-the-knee US Army men and women; sometimes shorts that fit close to the leg, first worn name given to coveralls. Generally made with knee as street wear by men in of or other sturdy fabric, in olive 11 Bermuda and introduced as sports in the drab or camouflage colors. 1950's. Gaucho pants. Wide calf length pants Blue jeans. Ankle length tight fitting copied from pants worn by South pants, made of blue or indigo denim with American cowboys and translated into V-shaped hip yoke in back; front slash fashion in the 1960's. pockets, hip patch pockets; all seams flat felled, usually with contrasting red-orange . Bouffant pants gathered thread, and points of strain reinforced by into bands at the ankles, copied from copper rivets; originally work pants for Near Eastern styles. cowboys and other laboring men, adapted for sportswear from 1930's on. Hip Huggers or flares. Low slung pants of any style starting below the normal . Shorts with elastic in a waistline, usually with belt resting on hip casing around waist, similar to those worn bones; popularized in the 1960's. by prize fighters. Ivy League pants. Man's trousers with . Woman's tight fitting pants skinny legs, usually without cuffs, cut with very narrow tapered legs, often with short at ankle; first worn by college men short slit at outside of ankle to aid in in the Ivy League schools and very getting them over the feet. Named for popular in the 1950's. Italian resort island of Capri where they were popular in the late 50's. Jamaican shorts. Shorts ending at the mid thigh, shorter than Bermudas but not short-short.

lounging or evening dress, popular in late . Riding pants with drop front or 1960's. closing, that flare at thigh and have narrow straight cut legs below knee, cuffs or bike pants. Below the at ankles; similar to men's worn knee, straight cut women's pants often in and popular with horseback riders with cuffs; popular during World War II for since the 20's. Named after Jodhpur, bicycling. India. Pull-on. Any leg style pant with . Combination shirt and pants completely elasticized waistline. or shirt and shorts in one piece, zipped or buttoned up from crotch to neck. Worn Stovepipe pants. Tight fitting pants with during World War II for speedy dressing narrow legs, same width from knee down, by parachute troops and other aviators. worn by men from 1880-1920 and Adopted by civilians during air raids. reintroduced in mid-1960's. Adapted for sportswear in 1960's and 70's. Sweat pants. Pants of cotton knit with fleece backing to absorb moisture worn Knickers. Knee pants, cut full and held in by athletes. just below the knee by a buckled strap or knitted cut, derived for the 1860's Toreador pants. Tight fitting below-the- knickerbockers and popular for boys in knee pants patterned after those worn by the 20's and 30's, especially in . Spanish bullfighters.

Leggings. Sturdy long tight pants, often COLLARS matching coat or jacket held at ankles by knitted bands or straps under feet. Band collar. Narrow collar opening in 12 front or back, cut in a straight strip and Levi's. Nickname given to work pants or stitched to neckline so that it stands up "jeans" made by Levi Strauss in California against the neck. for gold prospecting miners in mid-19th century. Barrymore. Sits low in front with points 4.5 to 5 inchess long; named for actor Mousers. Leather with John Barrymore; popular during 1920's attached shoes, introduced by British and 30's. designer Mary Quant in 1968. Belmont. High band, short,starched . Sturdy pants of jean fabric, collar with rounded ends; used from 1910 white , etc. with bib top and to 1920 on men’s shirts. suspender straps crossing in back and fastened to bib with metal loops over Bib or Plasteron. Flat oval or square on metal buttons; traditionally worn by front of dress or blouse, fitting over dress farmers, carpenters and painters. and around neck like a child's bib.

Oxfords. Long trousers with very wide Button-down. Pointed collar with ends cuffed legs, popular in the 20's at Oxford that button to body of shirt, blouse or University and revived in the 70's. dress; commonly used on men’s shirts in the 1950's and 80's. . Woman's long, wide or culottes with voluminous Cape c. Large circular-cut collar that flared legs or gathered at waist; worn for extends over the shoulders.

Cascade c. Circular-cut attached to where it joins the collar, folded back to neckline of blouse with a binding and may show the facing, which is called the extend to waist in diagonal line. .

Chinese, mandarin, Mao, or Nehru . Round flat collar with collar. Standing-band collar that extends rounded ends in front, worn by children up on neck, not quite meeting at center and copied from worn in James front. M. Barrie's play Peter Pan.

Choker collar. Tight band collar that Portrait. A low standing collar attached to stands up high on neck, almost to chin, a scooped neckline. and fastens in the back, often made of sheer material or lace, boned and edged Sailor collar. Large square collar with a narrow ruffle. hanging in back, front tapers to a V with inserted, trimmed with rows of Convertible. Any tailored collar that can braid and worn on middy blouses of be worn open or closed; frequently called seamen in US Navy. man-tailored. collar. Collar, cut in one piece or Cowl. Large draped collar that extends seamed in back, that follows the front nearly to shoulders in circular style, opening of garment without separate frequently cut on the bias. lapels. (A mock notched collar is a shawl collar with a peak or angle cut out mid- Cowl drape. Cowl collar that drapes to way on the front.) form a hood that can be pulled over head, inspired by a monk's habit. Shirt collar. Turn-down collar used on a shirt; specifically, a small collar fitting not 13 Dog collar. Collar that fits tightly around too high on the neck with medium spread base of neck or higher, sometimes used points. with halter neckline. Swallow-tail collar. Tailored collar with Dog's ear. Flat collar of medium size with extremely long narrow points in front, long rounded ends, shape of spaniel's resembling swallow's tail. ear. Tab collar. Shirt collar fitting high on collar. 1) Standing band collar with neck with small flap on either point which hanging ruffle attached to front of collar. buttons or snaps across to other side of 2) Separate ruffle fastened to front of neck-band to hold points down. blouse. Turtleneck collar. High band collar, Mock turtleneck collar. Separate band usually knitted, that fits very closely on stitched down to simulate a turtleneck the neck and rolls over, sometimes twice. collar. NECKLINES Nehru. Similar to Chinese collar but sometimes made with rounded corners; Bateau or boat neckline. Neckline cut in named after costume worn by prime shallow curve across line of collar bones minister of India Jawaharlai Nehru; almost to tip of shoulders the same popular during the 1960's. across back of neck.

Notched collar. Extension of the front- Bow neckline. Strip of fabric attached opening edge of a garment at the point around neckline, tied in a bow in front.

breasts, sides cut straight up back Cowl neckline. Bias cut in one with rounded; popular in 1930's, 40's, late garment or pieced on, falling in folds like 1950's and early 60's. a monk's cowl either in front or back or both. Tube neckline. Standing band of fabric extending upward from base of neck Crew neck. Round neckline finished with similar to turtleneck but not turned over; knit ribbing. Named for neckline on crew innovation of late 1960's. racing shirts. U-neck. Deeply scooped Drawstring neckline. Neckline with cord threaded through a casing to be gathered V-neck. Cut down in front to a sharp point and adjusted high or low, inspired by like the letter V. peasant styles.

Florentine neckline. Wide neckline CUFFS extending to shoulders, cut straight across front and back; inspired by Barrel . Single cuff on a tailored shirt Florentine paintings of the Renaissance. Fitted cuff. Wide band, shaped to fit the Funnel neck. High neckline cut in one wrist and arm, usually fastened with with garment, made with shoulder seams buttons or zipper. slanted upward toward neck in shape of inverted funnel. French cuff. Double length stitched on shirt cuff that folds back over itself and is Halter neck. Sleeveless front of garment fastened with cuff link through all four held by a strap around neck, leaving back layers. 14 and shoulders bare. Gauntlet cuff. Wide turned-back cuff that Jewel neckline. High, round, faced slants sway from the arm, flaring wide at neckline with no binding or collar. top and tapered to wrist.

Off-the-Shoulder neckline. Neckline that Single cuff. Barrel shaped cuff with falls below the shoulders but has sleeves rounded corners, stitched to shirt sleeve or collar over arms. and closed with one small button matched to front shirt buttons. One-shoulder neckline. Asymmetric neckline, starting under one arm and SLEEVES continuing diagonally over opposite shoulder leaving one shoulder bare. Balloon sleeve. Very large puff sleeve extending to elbow, set into a regular Scoop neckline. Low curved neckline armhole, frequently made of . extending to shoulders or cut deep in front or back or both. Batwing sleeve. Long sleeve cut with deep armhole almost to waist, tight at Strapless neckline. Boned or elastic wrist, giving wing line appearance when bodice which requires no shoulders or arm is extended. straps; an innovation of the 1930's. Bell sleeve. Sleeve narrow at the top and Sweetheart neckline. Low neckline with set into normal armhole and flared at lower edge in front cut like the top curves lower edge like a bell of a heart, revealing cleavage between

Bishop sleeve. Full sleeve set into Raglan sleeve. Sleeve that extends to normal armhole and gathered into band neckline set in by seams slanting from at wrist. underarm front and back.

Bracelet sleeve. Three quarter length Roll or roll-up sleeve. Sleeve, fitted, cuff-less sleeve allowing bracelet to approximately elbow length, finished only show. with a narrow hem, designed to be folded or rolled up at least twice in lieu of a cuff sleeve. Small sleeve just covering top of arm, not continuing under arm. Rumba sleeve. Barrel sleeve covered with rows of small horizontal ruffles. sleeve. Sleeve cut all-in-one with shoulder, making wide top Shirt sleeve. Tailored wrist length sleeve sometimes similar to batwing. with flat felled seams, set smoothly into the armhole; sometimes has one or two Drop shoulder. Shoulder seam extends small unpressed pleats where it joins the 2 to 4 inches over the upper arm; any cuff. type of sleeve can be attached. Suit sleeve. Long straight sleeve made in Epaulet . Yoke across the top of shoulder two pieces with vertical seams at either cut in one piece with the sleeve. side of underarm

Fitted sleeve. Narrow sleeve set into Three-quarter sleeve. Sleeve ending small armhole, fitted all the way to wrist. between the elbow and the wrist.

Juliet sleeve. Long sleeve with short Tom Jones sleeve. Full sleeve, gathered puffed top, fitted below. Named after into cuff or ruffle, used on men's shirts, 15 Shakespeare's Romeo and Juliet heroine. sometimes set into dropped shoulder. Named for style of shirts worn in 18th Kimono sleeve. Wide straight sleeve set century popularized by Henry Fielding's in at right angle to garment or cut in one 1749 novel Tom Jones reworked into a 1963 movie. Lantern sleeve. Sleeve in two sections, narrow at shoulder and wrist, widened at WAISTLINES mid-arm by a seam, forming a lantern shape Cinched or waist. Narrow curved waist produced by a Leg-of-Mutton or gigot sleeve. Wide or guepiere. and rounded at the shoulder tapering to a snug fit on lower arm, the shape of a leg Drawstring waist. Waistline with a cord of mutton. or belt drawn through a casing, heading, or beading, gathering the fullness in when Pagoda sleeve. Gunnel shaped sleeve tied in a bow or knot. with flared wrist ruffling over a puffed under-sleeve; name for the shape. Dropped waist. Belt or waistline seam placed below the natural waistline. Puffed sleeve. Short sleeve gathered either at the armhole or at the cuff or Empire waist. High waisted effect with band or both, producing a rounded seam placed directly under bust. shape.

High rise waist. Pants or skirt with a very 70's begun by Ethel Scull a New York art wide waistband extended from the natural collector. waistline upward. Chain belt. Belt made of chain, usually Hip-hugger. Waistband of skirt, pants, or metal. shorts that falls below the natural waistline, resting on the hipbones; Cinch belt. Wide belt worn pulled tight, derived from Western jeans. usually made of elastic or fabric, either laced or clasped in front; Princess w. Fitted waistline with no seam, garment cut in panels from neck to Contour belt. Curving belt shaped to the hem and fitted by vertical seams,. body, wider in front or back.

Set-in. Horizontal panel of fabric used at Corselet belt. Wide belt sometimes waistline of dress, fitted between top and enclosing the rib cage, frequently laced skirt, making two seams, one at normal up the front in manner similar to peasant's waistline and one higher. bodice.

POCKETS . Wide fabric belt sometimes pleated lengthwise, fastened Bellows . Outside pocket made in back. with center box pleat or inverted pleat that expands when pocket is used. Gaucho belt. Belt made of medallions of Characteristic of bush jacket pockets. leather and metal joined with chain.

Bound pocket. Outside of pocket opens Greek belt. Long narrow belt that winds like a bound to reveal a around waist, crosses over and 16 concealed inner pocket; also called a extends over shoulders, worn in ancient piped, slach, slit or slot pocket Greece and also a fashion in the late 1960's. Flap pocket. Pocket with separate piece of material covering the opening; may be Hip hugger belt. Belt worn below natural bound, welt or patch pocket. waistline resting on top of hip-.

Fob pocket. A small pocket in the front of Monk's belt. Belt of rope with tassels on a man's trousers, used to carry a watch. the ends, sometimes wrapped several times around the waist. Hacking pocket. Flapped pocket placed on an angle. Obi. Wide sash worn high under bosom and tied in back in a flat bow, adapted Key pocket. Small patch pocket sewn from obi worn by Japanese women with inside of larger right front pocket in jeans kimono. style pants, just large enough for a key. Safari belt. Wide belt with attached Patch pocket. Pocket sewn on outside of flapped pockets in front. garment, either plain or with flap. Sash. Any belt of soft material that loops over, knots, or ties in a bow rather than BELTS buckling.

Cartridge belt. Low slung belt holding a SHOES row of bullet cartridges, a fad of the early Baby dolls. Low heeled shoes with wide, rounded toes, similar to Mary Janes, but sometimes with straps around the ankles. foot forming toe and quarter and hand- Popular for women in the late 40's, stitched onto an oval vamp, often revived in the 60's. decorated with bead embroidery or fringe; upper edge of often folded over with Ballerinas. Soft, low, kid shoe with thin a threaded through and tied in front soles and flat heels, sometimes with over vamp. drawstring throat, inspired by shoe worn by ballet dancers and popular in the 40's Kilties. Shoes with a shawl or fringed for school girls. tongue folded over front of shoe, covering the lacing underneath; adapted from Boat dockers. Canvas shoe similar to Scottic gold shoe. tennis shoe but made with a special non- skid rubber sole for walking on slippery Loafers. Slip on shoes with -toe decks. construction and slotted straps stitched across vamps and sometimes decorated Brogan. Man's heavy work shoe, usually with metal chains or with tassel-tied ankle high, frequently made in clucher bows. style with lacing. Mary Janes. Child's low heeled Chain loafer. Moccasin-toed slip-on shoe made of patent leather with blunt toe and with low or medium heel, trimmed with one strap over instep buttoned or buckled metal links over the instep. Popular in the at center or side. mid to late 60's. Opera pumps. Plain, undecorated . Shoes made with thick soles of woman's pump on medium to high heel, wood or cork, held on by broad straps or cut from a single piece of leather or leather or canvas vamp. Popular in the fabric. A basic style during the 40's and 17 30's. 50's, revived in the 70's.

Elevators. Man's shoes with extra Penny loafers. Loafer with a slash in the wedges inside the heels to give the strap across each vamp into which a coin wearer added height ; popular in the 40's in sometimes inserted. and 50's when men's shoes had only very flat heels. Platform s. Shoes with thick mid-soles, usually made of wood or cork and . French canvas shoe with covered/ Popular for women in the 40's rope sole, the toe and vamp cut in one and revived by St. Laurent in the 60's, piece and seamed to quarter at the sides; revived again in the early '90s. may have lacings that wrap around the ankle. Saddle oxfords. Sporty oxfords with plain rounded toe, usually made of white Gucci loafers: Most popular of the fine buck calf with brown or black smooth shoes sold by Gucci beginning in the leather section or saddle across the laced early 60's; a slip on with modified portions; often rubber soled. Basic style moccasin toe and distinctive gold metal since the 20's. Revived in exaggerated harness hardware decoration across the colors and shapes in the early 60's. vamp; Widely copied throughout the 60's and 70's. Sling-backs: Any shoe with an open back and a strap around the heel of the Indian . Soft soled heel-less foot to hold it in place. shoe made by American Indians in which Slip-ons. Shoes with no fastenings that the leather sold continues up around the slips on the foot easily.

Spectactor shoes. Pump or oxford in extending forward when it joins the sole; two-toned leather, usually black or brown exaggeratedly high and narrow version is on white, the darker trim on the toe, called a spike heel. quarter and top band often perforated in designs, often with a stacked leather Cuban heel. Medium to high, broad heel heel. Popular spectator sports or golf with slight curve in back, popular in 30's shoe in 20's to 40's. and 40's.

Stocking shoes. Shoes covered with Cube heel. A square heel of leather or knitted fabric and attached to a long Lucite. Popular in the 60's. , introduced in late 60's by Beth Levine. Floating pedestal . Wedge heel deeply carved out at the back, so that the Wedgies. Shoes with wedge shaped heel f the foot "floats" above. heels completely joined to soles under arches, made in all styles and heights; French heel. High heel that curves popular for women in late 40's. inward then flares slightly outward at the base; popular in the 30's and 40's. Winkle pickers. British slang for exaggerated pointed shoes worn by the Louis heel. Heel curved sharply inward " Boys" (rockers in the early 50's. around the sides and back, then flared Word taken to mean that pointed toes can slightly at the base similar to heels worn dig out snails or periwinkles from the in the Louis XV period. sand. The same shoe was called "cockroach stompers" in US ghettos at heel. Flat leather heel made in the same time. It was taken to mean you one piece with the sole of the shoe in the could chase the roach into the corner and same way that rubber heels and soles are 18 kill it with the point of the shoe. joined on saddle oxfords.

Wing-tip oxfords. Laced she decorated Pyramid heel. Medium heel with squared at the toe with wing shaped overlay base flaring toward the sole, like an perforations; may be worn with overlay at inverted pyramid. heels as well (or wing may extend around sides to meet at back seam.) Popular in Set back heel. Heel almost straight from black and white for golf in the 20's. top to bottom, set well back on the sole giving a faint pitch forward to the shoe. HEELS Spool heel. High rounded heel set back Ball heel. Spherical heel of wood or further than the continental heel. Lucite; worn in the 60's. Stacked heel. Heel built up of horizontal Bell-bottom heel. Heel curved inward layers of leather. and then flaring at the bottom, similar in shape to bell bottom pants. 1970's. . Spike heel ending in a tiny round base, centered with a rod of metal Block heel. Straight heel similar to for strength; popular in the 50's. Cuban heel but set further back and approximately same width at the top and Wedge heel. Heel made in one piece base. with sole of shoe in various heights. Continental heel. High, narrow heel, Introduced in the 30's and revived in the straight in front with square corners and mid 70's. slightly curved in the back, a slight edge

TEXTILE TERMS : Cotton fabric printed with floral or bird designs, with or without a shiny glazed finished; used for beachwear and COTTON women's apparel as well as and slipcovers. : Originally, fabric made on a wide , more than 27 inches. In the Corduroy: Medium to heavy weight U.S. it is a soft, closely woven, lustrous cotton fabric with vertical cut stripes, cotton or cotton/ in a plain differentiated by the size of cords such as weave with fine rib in the direction of the pin-wale, regular, or wide-wale corduroy. filling; used for shirts, dresses, Used for coats, dresses, sportswear and , etc. now woven with polyester for better washing. Cotton : Soft cotton sheeting or , brushed to raise a on one or Cotton crepe: Crinkled surface cotton both sides, used for baby clothes, shirts, fabric made with crepe twisted yarns. linings, and . Also called Less permanent crinkled cotton produced flannelette. by printing with caustic soda. Also called plissé or plissé crepe. Cotton : Fine soft lightweight cotton in , bleached or printed Cotton suiting: General term for a wide and used for dresses and men's shirts; variety of heavy weight cotton fabrics also made in sheer wool similar to a nun's woven in patterns of other fabrics: veiling, in sheer silk and in spun . , , stripes, checks, plaids, for summer suits and trousers. : Low count cotton fabric with small distinctive printed designs, usually Cotton velvet: Sort cotton pile fabric 19 flowers. woven like velvet.

Canvas: Heavy, durable, utility fabric Denim: Sturdy cotton dyed fabric made from coarse, hard, twisted cotton with warp face twill in many variations of yarns, sometimes sized; used for coats, colors and in stripes and checks. Classic shoes, and . denim has indigo blue face, gray or unbleached fill and is used for work : Sheer worsted cotton, rayon or clothes and jeans and jeans, sportswear other made in firm plain weave, pants and jackets. frequently dyed and printed with small floral or geometrical designs Dotted Swiss: Crisp, sheer cotton ornamented with evenly spaced dots of Chambray: Name given to a variety of the same color as ground or in lightweight, high count yarn dyed contrasting color, achieved originally by with a silky touch, some iridescent, some an clipping. Popular for evening woven with stripes, used for dresses, , junior fashions and children's sportswear and men's shirts, heavier dresses. weights are used for work shirts. : Durable cotton fabric in warp faced Chamois cloth: soft cotton fabric, either or herringbone twill, in medium or heavy knit or woven, made with fine soft nap in weights, used in the gray or piece dyed. imitation of chamois finished sheepskin. Similar to denim, middy twill or jean Should not be shortened to chamois, as fabrics and used for work and sports this refers to leather. clothes and shoe linings.

Duck: Term for a wide range of heavy : Fine cotton, hand loomed in a cotton fabrics, closely woven in a plain variety of stripes, checks or plaids in the weave, made in different weights. Madras sections of India. Indian Lightweight duck is used for sportswear. vegetable dyes bleed when washed, giving a soft blending to the color. Similar Dungaree: Rugged cotton twill fabric, domestic fabrics are color fast. Used for usually blue, similar to denim, woven with dresses and sportswear. colored filling and white warp--the reverse of denim. : Plain weave cotton fabric, sheer to coarse, lustrous, washable, long Embossed cotton: Medium weight wearing, the finer qualities are dyed and cotton fabric with surface design printed and used for dresses, blouses. impressed by steam heated metal rollers, Unbleached muslin is a coarse, heavily giving effect similar to birdseye pique or sized cotton utility fabric with plainly other patterned weaves. woven natural yarn. It is used by designers for draping a on a Embossed crepe. Lightweight cotton mannequin. fabric with crinkled surface made by running fabric through engraved rollers to : Sturdy, bright yellow opaque give pebbly effect which is not waterproof fabric made by coating cotton permanent. Also, fabrics of man-made with linseed oil; used for worn given a permanent crepe effect by by fishermen, sailors, children. engraved rollers Oxford: Man's shirting fabric made in : -like fabric made in plain basket weave, plain or with yarn dyed weave of silk, cotton, rayon and other stripes or small fancy designs. man-made fibers. 20 : Plain, smooth lightweight fabric : Fine sheer silk or cotton of cotton, sometimes blended with fabric made in plain weave with twisted polyester; used for dresses, shirts, yarns giving a crepy surface; used for children's clothing, sheets. dresses, evening gowns, blouses and nightgowns. also called crepe georgette. Percaline: Lustrous, soft finished cotton lining fabric, usually in dark colors, used . Yarn-dyed cotton fabric, for clothing and furs. Lustrous cotton checked in white with one color or plaid in fabric with a linen like surface. Also called several colors, sometimes in thin tissue cotton . weight called gingham; used for blouses, dresses, children's wear. Cotton pique. Cotton double woven fabric with cross-wise corded ribs or fancy Jean: Warp faced cotton twill fabric weaves. Pinwale pique has small ribs. similar to but lighter than drill, may be Waffle piques has a honeycomb weave. printed or dyed in solid colors; used for Birdseye pique with diamond patterns. sports and work clothes, , shoe Used for women's and girl's dresses, linings. Sometimes word is applied to sportswear, neckwear. denim. : Smooth, glossy, cotton fabric Khaki: Dull yellowish-brown cotton or made in the satin weave and used for wool fabric, whether plain, serge, dresses, linings. drill or , used for its camouflage effect by armed forces of France. : Cotton fabric with permanent woven crinkle stripes obtained by releasing tension at intervals to Linen . Fabric with an uneven produce alternating plain and puckered textured effect woven in plain weave, stripes; popular for summer suitings, usually with yarn dyed yarns. children's wear, underwear, shirts, etc. either dyed or printed. . A bast fiber from a nettle-like East Indian shrub. It is used for shirts, suits, Terry cloth: Absorbent cotton fabric, table covers. woven or knitted in pile weave with uncut loops, solid colors or printed several . A variety of grown chiefly in colors or woven in Jacquard patterns; Kenya. It is used primarily for cordages used for beachwear, bath , sports but may also be used for millinery. shirts. Spun linen. Finest hand-woven linen : Cotton or rayon pile fabric on fabric, used for handkerchiefs, collars, plain or twill backing, woven singly, loops etc. cut making soft, velvety surface. Tow linen. Fabric made of uneven, : Sturdy cotton fabric woven in irregular yarns composed of the very close satin or twill weave, organella used short fibers. for covering pillows and mattresses, now it's also used for sportswear. SILK

LINEN China silk. Soft textured silk in plain weave which may have slight Art linen. An ecru, white, or unbleached imperfections, is used for dress and suit linen fabric in plain cloth used for linings. embroidery, dresses, uniforms and table 21 . Crepe de chine. A very lightweight silk with a crepy texture made of highly Butcher linen. Heavyweight fabric in a twisted yarns. Used for dresses and plain weave used for summer suits and blouses. sportswear. Originally made for butchers' . Duchess satin. Lightweight, glossy satin weave silk (or rayon) fabric dyed in solid . A generally fine, lightweight, colors. plain weave linen fabric woven in Ireland of Irish flax. Best grades are hand woven. . A fine soft, twill weave silk It is used for handkerchiefs and fabric, often printed and used for ties and neckwear. dresses.

Jute. A bast fiber, chiefly from India, used Georgette. A fine sheer, dull textured silk mostly for gunny sacks, bags, cordage made in plain weave with twisted yarns and binding threads of rugs and carpets. giving a crepy surface, used for dresses, Burlap, a loosely constructed plain woven evening gowns, blouses and nightgowns. fabric of is used for bags, sacks as well as sportswear and accessories. Gossamer. Veiling fabric made of fine, sheer silk. Linen canvas. Firm linen fabric used as interfacing or for embroidery purposes. Mousseline de soie. A very sheer, crisp silk fabric.

Peau de soie. A reversible, heavy-weight animal of the camel family that's related satin with a fine ribbed effect to the llama. . A rough textured, medium- weight Chinese silk fabric with nubs and Angora. A soft, fuzzy yarn made from the irregular cross ribs made from wild silk. Angora rabbit.

Raw silk. Reeled silk wound directly from Camel hair. A high quality cloth made several cocoons with only a slight twist. from the two humped, pack carrying species of the Arabian-Asia camel Silk broadcloth. A spun-silk fabric in producing a soft, luxurious yarn. plain weave, used for shirts, blouses and sports dresses. Cashmere. A super soft fabric made from the soft, downy fleece of the cashmere Silk . Lightweight, smooth, goat and in fleece or flannel weaves. semi-lustrous fabric with crepe back used for dresses. Donegal . Originally a thick woolen homespun tweed woven by hand by Irish Silk . An extremely sheer, airy, peasants. Now it refers to a tweed in plain soft silk fabric with a soft plain or rippled weave characterized by colorful slubs finish that is used for evening dresses woven into the fabric. and scarfs. it is also made of rayon and other synthetics. Duffel. A heavy woolen fabric with a thick nap made in England in the 18th century Silk satin. A shiny, smooth fabric in warp and used for . satin weave with a high luster used for blouses and dresses. Granite cloth. Wool firmly constructed with a pebbly surface produced by the 22 Silk shantung. A silk fabric with a nubby weave usually an irregular satin or twill. surface similar to but heavier than pongee. It was originally woven of wild Loden. Thick, filled water-repellent silk in Shantung, China. coatings and suiting woven by people of the Tyrol section of Austria of local wool, Silk taffeta. A fine yarn dyed fabric with a sometimes with the addition of camel plain weave or with small crosswise rib hair. Popular for winter sportswear, ski- that has a crisp feel. There are a variety wear and coats. of types: antique, faille, , paper, shot cloth, and tissue taffeta. . Heavy, compact wool with a short lustrous nape used for coats. Silk . A very soft, fine, transparent silk net used for evening dresses and Merino wool. A high quality yarn made veiling. (Also made of or rayon.) from the fleece of merino sheep which is short and fine, strong, resilient and takes Tussah or wild silk. Fibers from the wild dyes well. silkworm. Tussah is strong but coarse and uneven. Used in shantung and . Fabric made from the angora pongee. goat.

WOOL Mousseline de laine. A lightweight, plain weave worsted dress fabric also known . A fine, luxurious fabric made as wool muslin. from the fleece of he alpaca, a sheep like

Sharkskin. A wool fabric in twill weave, originally made of yarns of two colors. It is Acrylic. Fabric made form acrylic resin. so-called because of its resemblance to Acrylics are easy to wash and quick leather. Used for men's and drying are wrinkle resistance and women's suiting and slacks, it comes in a resistant to moths and mildew. clear or semi-finished worsted. . A non-tarnishing metallic ribbon Serge. Worsted fabric in an even twill yarn used primarily in knits. with the wale showing on both sides. Latex. Natural rubber (raw material) for Vicuna. Fabric made from the wild fibers.) member of the llama family which is extremely soft wit colors ranging from Lycra. An elastic filament yarn. Today it golden chestnut to deep fawn. is mixed with all sorts of fabrics to create today's "stretch" fabrics. Whipcord. A twill weave, worsted fabric with a pronounced diagonal wale on the Metallic. A generic name of right side, more pronounced than in manufactured fibers composed of metal, . It is used for riding habits and metal coated plastic, or a core completely outdoor wear. covered by metal.

Wool broadcloth. A soft glossy napped Nylon. A generic name for manufactured twill or plain weave woolen fabric used for fibers derived from polyamide resin. suits, coats, and dresses. Polyamide. Fabrics made from a resin Wool flannel. An all wool fabric of made by condensation. woolen or of worsted yarns, finished with 23 a soft nap that practically obliterates the Polyester. A generic name for fabrics weave. made from manufactured fibers made from a chemical composition of ethylene Wool gabardine. A tightly woven twilled glycol and terphtalic acid. worsted with a raised diagonal wale on the right side. Rayon. A silky fabric made from man- made fibers derived from trees, cotton, Wool . A wool fabric, usually in woody plants. stockinette stitch. Viscose. A type of rayon fiber made from Worsted wool. A wool fabric made of regenerated cellulose used for apparel. lang staple combed yarn. Vinyl. A non-porous plastic that's flexible, . A soft, lustrous wool fabric, shiny, elastic that can be opaque and often with hair fibers in the filling, similar transparent. Very popular in the 1960's to fleece with long, silky waved nap and revived in the '90s. pressed flat to give a non-fuzzy surface. Used for coats. WEAVES / FINISHES

SYNTHETICS Armure. Fabrics with a pebbly surface sometimes using small motifs in repeat Acetate. Fabrics made form cellulose design, woven in variation of rib weave acetate. Acetates drape well, have a silk called armure weave. like appearance an resist wrinkling and fading.

Birdseye. Absorbent fabric woven in a Faille. Crisp flat ribbed fabric with ribs small diamond design with dot in the made by using heavier yearns in the center. A type of piqué woven with filling. horizontal corded effect and small diamond design. Gabardine. Durable, closely woven fabric with definite diagonal ridges used for Bonded. A process where two fabrics are suits, coats, sportswear, etc. joined into one by means of using an adhesive or foam. Herringbone. A chevron pattern consisting of adjoining vertical rows of Bouclé. Fabric with looped or nubbed slanting lines, any two contiguous lines surfaces caused by using boucle yarn in suggesting either a V or an inverted V, the filling. Honeycomb. A weave which forms a Bourrette. A novelty yarn made of series of recessed squares resembling a various fibers where nubs of a different waffle-effect. color are formed when the yarn is carded. Jacquard. Elaborate pattern woven on a . Fabric with a raised design loom whereby each warp yarn in woven on jacquard loom usually a satin controlled separately. weave pattern with a background in rib or plain weave. Napping. The process of raising short fibers of a cloth to the surface. Burnt-out. Fabric or lace made on the jacquard loom with two different yarns. A Nubs. Yarn made with lumps, knots or lacy or novelty design is created when flecks of fibers at intervals sometimes of one of the sets of yarn is chemically different colors. 24 dissolved. . a heavy, lustrous fabric woven Calendaring. A process with broad, horizontal ribs. producing a shiny, smooth surface by passing the cloth through hollow, heated Pile. Weave with loops in either the warp cylinder rolls. or the weft which either can be left whole as in terry cloth or cut as in velvet, Chenille. Yarn with a fuzzy pile producing a thick soft surface. protruding on all sides. Ply. A term referring to the number of Crepe. Fabric with a pebbly texture individual yarns twisted together to form a achieved by the weave or by embossing heavier yarn. (e.g. 2-ply or 3-ply) or application of chemicals. Slub. Slightly irregular yarns made with a . Jacquard woven fabric with thick and thin texture. floral or geometric designs of high luster on a dull background. Space dyed. Fabric made from yarns that have color applied by dipping or End-on-end. Men's shirting weave with a spotting various places along the yarn. fine colored yarn alternating with white in This is done to warp and filling yarns. the warp and white or all color weft, producing a pin or the alternation Yarn dyed. Woven or knitted fabric from used in both direction producing a pin yarns that are already dyed rather then check. geige goods dyed after weaving. (e.g. chambray, gingham).

PLAIDS Satin stripe. Satin weave stripe alternating with bands of plain fabric. . A diamond-shaped pattern using two or more colors. Shadow stripe. Indistinct, narrow stripes all in tones of one color family, woven Blanket p. Very large plaid with dark vertically background colors and lighter over- stripes. Ticking stripe. Narrow woven dark-blue stripes, sometimes spaced in paris on a Glen p. Woven design with small checks white ground on a heavy twill fabric once are combined with larger checks in a used exclusively for mattresses. subdued color & white. PRINTS p. Plaid consisting of narrow All-over print. Pattern covering entire lines in two alternating colors, crossed to fabric. form checked design on a plain light colored ground. print. Designs copied from Indonesian technique of painting with Windowpane p. Fine cross stripes widely wax before . spaced making design like multi-paned window. Block print. Print made by cutting design on wood or linoleum blocks, one for each STRIPES color in the print, inking the blocks, then printing colors individually. Awning. Wide even bands of one or more bright colors and white woven or Calico print. Small repeat designs of 25 printed on coarse canvas. sprigs of flowers on a colored background. . Horizontal stripes of varying widths in brilliant colors. Medallion. Repeat round or oval design.

Blazer s. Inch-wide bands of one or . All-over design of stylized several colors alternating with white. flowers, pears, leaves inspired by Paisley in rich colors. Candy s. Narrow bands of red on white background like peppermint sticks. Silk screen print. A print-making technique in which a cloth is Chalk s. Narrow lines of white, widely stretched over a wooden frame and the spaces, frequently used on gray, navy, or design, painted on the screen or affixed black flannel. by stencil, is printed by having a squeegee force color through the pores of Pencil s. Vertical stripes as wide as a the material in areas not blocked out by a pencil line with wider stripes of glue . background color in between.

Pinstripe. Very narrow woven or printed stripes the width of a straight pin, placed close together.

RESOURCES

ARTS SUPPLIES Artist's Delight Artist’s World 28 New St 3 Carlton Centre Port Of Spain San Fernando 623-8134 652-4335

Da Vinci's Framing & Art Materials Ltd Deltex Art Shop Trincity Mall 66 Pembroke St Trincity Port Of Spain 640-0003 623-6468 Jus Arts & Crafts Supplies Tulip Productions Gulf City Shopping Complex Voyager Mall La Romain: Port Of Spain 657-8888 627-6312 Naipaul's Book Store Naipaul's Book Store [email protected] Queen & Sanchez Sts 112 Eastern Mn. Rd. Arima Sangre Grande 667-2569 668-2423 667-5742

CRAFTS SUPPLIES A & C Sales Arts & Crafts Unlimited 26 84 New Haven Av Long Circular Mall Marabella St James 658-3658 622-4685 Imagination Ltd Olayinka 22 Henry St Long Circular Mall Port Of Spain St James 624-2756 628-2276 Samaroo's Limited See Rique Ceramics Ltd 11 Abercromby St Western Main Rd Port Of Spain Carenage 624-8431 632-3726 V & C Trading Ltd Deltex Art Shop Arcade Bldg 66 Pembroke St San Fernando Port Of Spain 652-2933 623-6468 Kaze Kraft Centre Kaze Kraft Centre St James St Charlotte St San Fernando San Fernando 652-4735 627-4518

FABRIC SHOPS Aboud Jimmy The Textile King (R) Alicia's Queen & Henry Sts 114 Coffee St Port Of Spain San Fernando 625-2904 652-2686 Angie's Fabric & Puja Store Ltd Bachus Co Ltd Fabrics & Bridal Ramsaran St 6 Main Rd Chaguanas Chaguanas 672-3895 671-2449 Bradford Trading Limited Cindy Fabrics & Bridal Palace 22-24 Henry St Oudhan Tr Port Of Spain San Juan 623-8474 674-4703 Classy Fabrics Croissee Fabrics 31 Frederick St Saddle Rd & Eastern Main Rd Port Of Spain San Juan 627-8862 674-7660 Daisy's Exclusive Deluxe Fabric Centre 11 Main Rd 22 High St Chaguanas Siparia 665-4866 649-3243 Diamond Tex Ltd Fabric Land Nationwide Grand Bazaar 84 High St Valsayn San Fernando 662-8384 657-0178 Fabric World Ltd Fantasy Fabrics 27 8 Fifth St Valpark Shopping Plaza Barataria Valsayn 674-8431 645-1186 Georgio's Hi Fashion Fabrics 15 Frederick St Valpark Shopping Plaza Port Of Spain Valsayn North 627-3638 663-1859 House Of Taylor's Ltd Juliet's Charlotte St 77 Queen St Port Of Spain Port Of Spain 627-7176 623-4766 Mansoor G & Son Ltd Michelle's Fashion Store 63 Queen St 29 Queen St Port Of Spain Arima 623-2740 667-3927 Michelle's Fashion Store Patrick's Fabrics 29 Queen St Queen & Henry Sts Arima Port Of Spain 667-3927 627-9097 Peter's Fabrics Queensway Fashion Fabrics 21 Frederick St 62 Queen St. Port Of Spain Port Of Spain 624-0448 625-7373

Rahaman's Fashion Fabrics Ltd Singh's Dry Goods Store 45-47 Gooding Vlg 10 Market St San Fernando Marabella 652-4980 658-5754 Tunapuna Shopping Centre Vanity Fair 60 Eastern Main Rd Valpark Shopping Plaza Tunapuna Valsayn 663-1479 663-3117 Mode Alive Miguel Moses 34 Frederick St Queen St Port of Spain Arima 629 5483 667 3640

SEWING SUPPLIES Accessories Bargain Centre Aziz Rosaline 57 Queen St Hosein's Mall Port Of Spain Princes Town 623-4566 655-6685 Bradford Trading Limited Fakoory's 22-24 Henry St 25A Charlotte St Port Of Spain Port Of Spain 623-8474 623-5204 Gulf Buttons Ltd Labels Plus 11 Main Rd 17 Frederick St Chaguanas Port Of Spain 28 671-5008 623-4158 Michelle's Sewing Shop Imagination 44-46 Charlotte St 22 Henry St Port Of Spain Port of Spain624 2756 627-8493 Puja Centre Rahaman's Fashion Fabrics Ltd 83 Eastern Mn Rd 45-47 Gooding Vlg Tunapuna San Fernando 645-7852 652-4980

SEWING MACHINES & SUPPLIES Queens Accessories Allied Sewing Supply Co 34 Queen St 49 Saddle Rd Port Of Spain San Juan 625-2705 675-1742 Singer Home Centre Starlite Shopping Plaza Diego Martin 633-4663

TAILORING SUPPLIES Fakoory's Mohess Ram S Tailoring Establishment 25A Charlotte St Ltd Port Of Spain 20 Coffee St 623-5204 San Fernando 652-4472

ZIPPERS Y K K Zippers (West Indies) Ltd Lenzip Zippers 7 Gaston St Western Main Rd Chaguanas Chaguaramas 665-8481 634-4012

29

FASHION WEBSITES

FASHION WEB’ZINES www.style.com Vogue online, lookbooks, trends, shows, newsletter www.fashion.about.com Designers database www.trendstop.com Trend analysis, free subscription for trend alert www.infomat.com Trend forecast www.fashion-era.com Fashion & Costume History www.wwd.com/ Womens Wear Daily online magazine www.wmagazine.com/ W online magazine www.iafnet.com/ Global market forecast, free subscription www.elle.com Elle magazine website www.fashion-planet.com Links to stores, new faces in style, gallery shows and party pix. www.modeaparis.com The website of the Federation du Pret-a- Porter Francaise with biographies and info on Parisian designers and couturiers. www.ystyle.com Runway pix and industry trends to fashion tips. 30 www.papermag.com The online version of the trendy N.Y. magazine “Paper” www.spoon-magazine.com Hot new magazine with pages on young people, place, things. www.widemedia.com/fashionuk/ A British ‘zine with trendy shops, runway pix from London and kicky articles.

FASHION DESIGNERS www.alexandermcqueen.com Alexander McQueen website www.armaniexchange.com Georgio Armani’s site. www.chanel.com Lagerfeld for CHANEL website www.christian-lacroix.fr www.dior.com Christian Dior website www.dolcegabbana.it Dolce & Gabanna www.donnakaran.com ’s site www.drmartens.com Doc Martens web site

www.heatherjonesdesign.com Heather Jones Fashion World www.helmutlang.com The website of fashion’s cutting edge Belgian designer www.hugo.com Hugo Boss website www.ghost.com Ghost www.gucci.com Gucci www.jpgualtier.com Come visit Gaultier’s virtual store and learn all about him. www.leejeans.com Lee Jeans website www.levi.com A very creative site featuring a history of jeans & hot street trends in major cities. www.paulsmith.com British designer, Paul Smith website www.peterelias.com Peter Elias’ presence on the web www.reebok.co.uk Reebok website www.versace.com Gianni Versace website 31 www.vuitton.com LV on the web www.ysl.com Official Website of Yves Saint Laurent

KNITTING YARNS www.fabulousyarn.com Hand dyed yarns www.yarn-store.com Knit wear soft ware, books www.knitty.com Free knit pattterns www.knittingpatterncentral.com Free pattern directory, Knitting instructions directory www.learntoknit.com Online knit instructions www.learn-to-knit.com Online knit instructions www.stoll.de Stitch reference www.tricotin.com/tricot Stitch reference www.knitting.about.com/hobbies Stitch reference PATTERN MAKING & TAILORS SUPPLIES www.sewtrue.com/ Sewing machines, workroom supplies, pattern making paper, shoulderpads, rulers, pins, irons, buttons, elastics, etc www.bearpaperandtrim.com/ Work room supplies www.materialconcepts.com/ Work room supplies

FABRICS www.silkconnection.com Silk, linen, cotton, nylon, rayon for printing, painting and dying www.denverfabrics.com All types of fabric www.fabric.com All types of fabrics, notions www.fashionfabricsclub.com All types of fabric, prints, domestic sewing machines, notions, trims TEXTILE ARTS SUPPLIES www.dharmatrading.com Textile supplies www.dickblick.com Textile dyes www.fibrecrafts.com Textile supplies www.annabovecollections.com Water soluble fabrics

32