1 CAFD FASHION STUDENT HANDBOOK A Guide to Fashion Terms and Resources TABLE OF CONTENTS 4 WELCOME TO CAFD 4 Tips for Managing Your Time 5 FASHION TERMS 5 Silhouettes 6 Coats 7 Jackets 8 Dresses 9 Blouses & Tops 11 Skirts 12 Pants & Shorts 14 Collars 16 Necklines 17 Cuffs 17 Sleeves 18 Waistlines 19 Pockets 19 Belts 20 Shoes 22 Heels 23 TEXTILE TERMS 23 Cotton 25 Linen 2 26 Silk 27 Wool 28 Synthetics 29 Weaves/Finishes 30 Plaids 30 Stripes 31 Prints 32 RESOURCES 32 Art Supplies 32 Crafts 33 Fabrics 34 Sewing Supplies 34 Sewing Machine Supplies 35 Tailoring Supplies 35 Zippers 36 FASHION WEBSITES 36 Web’zines 36 Fashion Designers 37 Knitting Yarns 38 Fabrics 38 Textile Arts Supplies WELCOME TO CAFD We are very honored to welcome you to the Fashion programme at the Caribbean Academy of Fashion & Design at UTT. This handbook has been compiled with information to help you with your programme of study. A mini lexicon of fashion and textile terms will help you develop a fashion vocabulary, the resource guide is there to help in your quest for supplies and materials for your projects and, finally, a listing of internet sites is there to help you connect with fashion information and resources throughout the world. The year ahead at CAFD is like no other. It is a year that will surely fascinate, fatigue, excite, crush, exhilarate, disappoint, push you to your limits and, most importantly, take you one small step closer to your dreams. And yes, there will be times when you feel used and abused, overwhelmed and overworked. And though you may not appreciate it right away, all of this will help you to develop a critical eye and a professional discipline which will make you a valuable asset to the local and international marketplace. The year ahead will be a rewarding one....but at a price. Time, a precious and fleeting commodity, will seem in short supply over the next several months. Making the best of what little time there is to complete your studies is crucial to your success. The work load is intense and at times, the deadlines will seem short and brutal. However if you learn to manage your time, you will reap the benefits of all there is to learn and get the most of the coming year. Tips for Managing Your Time During the Year to Come Make a List 3 If you tend to put things off until later, you're losing time. When you're disorganized, you rush, and as a result, you make more mistakes, you forget things, stress out. Make a list of all of your tasks and goals for this semester. This includes your classes, activities, and job responsibilities. Chart your tasks Next, buy whatever calendar or organizer suits you. Anything will work, from a day planner, a wall calendar, a calendar program on your computer. Make a note of your project deadlines, exams, exceptional events and schedules on your calendar. Holidays and social events should be mapped out all the way to the end of the semester. Next, prioritize your laundry list of tasks. For example, your number one task would be "A" in Design Studio or Marketing class. Plot Your Time After you've prioritized these tasks, take each one separately and estimate how long it will take you to accomplish. If you want that A, you'll need to get an A on almost every project. Look at project deadlines and estimate how many hours you'll need to execute it perfectly. Once you estimate the time it will take, double it because things usually take twice as long as you anticipate, AND accidents do happen. So give yourself plenty of time to complete each task. Looking at the deadlines on your calendar, work backwards, blocking out the time you've estimated for each task. Do this day by day, week by week. Break stretches of time into smaller chunks you can handle. Take a Break From time to time, schedule breaks from studying to give your mind and body a rest. Get up. Go for a walk. Listen to music. Watch a little TV. Have a snack. You’ll feel refreshed and ready to continue on with your homework. Be Good to Yourself If you have a problem getting or staying motivated for school work, set up a system of rewards that works for you. If you hate sewing, do that homework first, then treat yourself with your favorite subject last and have a piece of fruit or a dish of ice cream as an extra treat. As you get more in tune with your schedule, you'll discover your weaknesses and will figure out how to overcome them. Then you'll begin to use your strengths to your own advantage. You'll learn to juggle priorities so that everything gets done on time and to the best of your ability. 4 FASHION TERMS SILHOUETTES Long torso. Closely fitted silhouette to a low waistline; skirt in circular, pleated, or A-line or trapeze. Garment shaped away straight style. from the body, flared to hem of skirt like the letter A, usually with narrow Maxi. Long, ankle length silhouettes shoulders; one of the most prevalent introduced in the late 60's particularly for silhouettes during the 60's, originated by coats and skirts. Dior in the late 50's. Midi. Mid-calf length introduced in the Asymmetric. Silhouette not identical on late 60's. both sides of a central line which lacks symmetry. Mini. Mid-thigh length popular in the 60's, revived in the mid 80's. Baby-doll. Garment which is puffed out from neckline or with a shoulder yoke and Micro. Super short, above mid-thigh has an undefined waistline; styled after length popular in the early 70's, revived in children's and infant's dresses of the 30's. the late 80's. Blouson. a woman's garment with a Poor-boy. Descriptive term used in the drawstring, belt, or similar closing at or mid-60's referring to type of shrunken, below the waist that makes the fabric casual clothing influenced by that worn by above it blouse newsboys in the early 20th century. 5 Carnaby Street or "mod" look. A Tiered: Silhouettes composed of a series prevalent look during the era of the of flounces as seen in silhouettes worn in Beatles. Named after a famous street in the 30's. London, where many small boutiques selling the first mini-skirts, granny Unisex: Style introduced in the mid 60's dresses, leather fashions and boots in the that saw identical fashions: shirts, pants, early 60's catered to avant-garde young jackets, etc. worn by both men and customers. women, often sold in the same shop. Dandy. Term used from early 19th COATS century on for a man excessively fond of clothes, exemplified by Beau Brummell A-line, tent or trapeze c. Coats cut and Compte d'Orsay, where were great narrow at the shoulders, flaring gently influences on men's fashions in England from a small bust to the hem like the letter and France. A. Flapper look. Term used to describe a Cape coat. 1) Coat an attached or look prevalent in the 20's when young separate cape. 2) Combination of cape women wore lipstick, makeup, bobbed and coat, the back falling like a cape, the hair, short skirts in straight, fluid front with sleeves and cut more like a silhouettes and long strand of pearls. classic coat. Hour-glass. Woman's fitted dress shape Car coat. Sport coat, cut in hip or 3/4 which accentuates a full bustline, pinched length; comfortable for driving a car and in waists, and full curving hips. popular with suburbanites in the late 50's and 60's. Redingote. 1) Slightly fitted coat matched Chesterfield. Classic style with semi- to a dress to make anensemble. 2) An A- fitted body, single or double breasted line coat. front, black velvet collar and sometimes a fly front closing. Introduced in the 1840's Safari coat. Cut the same as safari jacket by the fourth Earl of Chesterfield. Swagger coat. Pyramid shaped woman's Cutaway. Man's formal black one button coat with flared bias back, usually with jacket with notched lapels, skirt cut away raglan sleeves and large saucer shaped from the waist in front to knees in back in buttons attached by fabric cord popular in slating line, back vent topped by two the 1930's and 70's. buttons; worn with waistcoat and striped trousers in the daytime. Called morning Swallow tailed coat. Man's formal black coat. From 19th century riding coats suit coat, open to waist in front, cut away made by cutting away fronts of frock to back of knees, the long vent to waist in coats instead of folding the skirts back for back giving the appearance of a horseback riding. swallow's tail. Also called "tails". Dirndl coat. Woman's coat with a fitted Trench coat. Long, double-breasted torso, and a low, gathered waistline; cloth coat with epaulets, a loose shoulder popular in the mid-1960's. yoke, slotted pockets, and buckled belt. Originally designed for military use in the Duffel coat. Short woolen 3/4 coat with a trenches of World War I which later hood and fastened with toggles rather became a classic all purpose coat after than buttons; worn by men in British navy 1940 sparked by the movie spy image of during World War II, adapted as a sport stars like Humphrey Bogart, Katherine coat for men and women in 1950's.