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THE FRIDAY EDITION SEPTEMBER 29 2017

FE80_Cover_PRESS.indd 1 11/09/2017 16:53 THE SHARPENER punch Strong yet soft, smart yet relaxed – it’s no wonder alpaca is leading the pack this season, says Tom Stubbs

fabric that’s extra light, versatile, strong yet utterly luxurious: it sounds like a menswear designer’s fantasy. But alpaca has, of course, been around for ages – it’s just that its superlative qualities have not beenA fully appreciated until this season. The springy, ultra-soft fibres from the underbellies and necks of a species of camelid living in the Andes make for some very special fabrics. When woven, alpaca takes on various textures, from soft and voluminous to coarse and cropped. And as lightweight fabrications and distinctive textures become defining characteristics of contemporary men’s style, it’s not surprising that alpaca is now being shepherded into a lead role. Brunello Cucinelli, who built his empire on cashmere, has also put alpaca to work beautifully in his signature unstructured tailored outerwear, such as a glen-check short (£3,760) and roomy one-and-a-half breasted - (£1,390) and bomber (£1,060, colour coat (£3,890). Likewise at Canali, pictured below) in /alpaca// where deconstructed drapey bouclé take inspiration from 1960s silhouettes, as does a single-breasted (£1,470) in a wool/alpaca blend. They pass muster at smart occasions, yet their subtle texture and soft construction mean they also work as weekend throw- ons. The highlight at Chester Barrie is a Change coat (£2,950, pictured below right), its navy cashmere contrasting Alpaca is ideal cable-knit turtleneck (£395) have with a lush black alpaca lapel (made by for upgrading a 1940s quality about them. Norse Cerruti’s mill) – a statement piece that Projects goes instead in a folky works with and as deftly as it casualwear direction, with a substantial does with cashmere knits. (£180, pictured far A champion of all-British fabric right) with ribbed and production, E Tautz owner and pictured top far right) by The Gigi called cuffs, in a wool/alpaca mix with a hint creative director Patrick Grant was so Degas, in an alpaca/wool flannel mélange of elastane to keep its chunky shape. convinced by the merits of alpaca that in tones of green and brown, while Canali Alpaca comes in two types: the dense, he decided to break with tradition uses a similar autumn-hued bouclé alpaca almost crimped Huacaya and the more and use it for a smashing voluminous mix for a simple, casual zip lustrous and straight Suri. Massimo Alba houndstooth overcoat (£1,190), as well (£3,370). Alpaca is ideal for upgrading opts for baby Suri in its voluminous as for a grey/ochre fine-check alpaca/ casualwear; prime examples are again knits. I love the soft, washed Alba wool with double-breasted found at Cucinelli, in a hooded aesthetic; while undeniably luxurious, jacket (£795) and pleated high- (£3,580) in camel baby alpaca and a the pieces have an almost hippy element (£395) in a boxy, colour-block baby alpaca/wool/cashmere/ to them. A turtleneck jumper in a vintage-feel cut. A vintage silk (£1,380, main picture) with mouline plain stitch (£281) has an accent also characterises a cool 1950s collegiate feel. attractive, hazy appearance, while the an unpadded suit (£1,150, Alpaca’s durability and excellent drape J Claude (£270) is a traditional Shetland also make it eminently suitable for the jumper given a 1960s twist, and the signature knitted jackets (€475) at Inis Reinold -collar jacket (£371, Clockwise from near left: Meáin, with their button fronts and turn- pictured far left) looks exceptionally cool. Canali wool/alpaca/mohair/ down collars. This season’s update (€540, Missoni has produced amazing funnel- silk bomber jacket, £1,060. pictured top far left) has a Nehru collar neck (£1,700) hand-knitted in Massimo Alba baby-Suri- and a distinctive ribbed effect. I also like a wool/mohair/alpaca blend with a alpaca Reinold jacket, £371. the retro appearance of its patterned and dégradé stripe; one comes in of Grenfell alpaca , cabled Aran crewneck (€335) in baby petrol blue, military green and plum, £1,395. Inis Meáin baby- alpaca and silk. There’s a similar feeling another in a brilliant mix of nori green, alpaca/silk jacket, €540. at Gieves & Hawkes, where a chocolate jade and chrysanthemum yellow. A Ermenegildo Zegna alpaca/ wool/alpaca cable-knit V-neck (£295, coat (£3,895, pictured above far right) wool bomber jacket, £2,380 pictured far right) and an ecru alpaca in a wool/yak/alpaca houndstooth loom

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FE80_Sharpener_Alpaca_PRESS.indd 1 14/09/2017 10:08 weave is a stunning showpiece. Matching OUT & ABOUT (£365) are a collaboration with Tom Stubbs Paris-based milliner Larose. Alpaca is deployed for some interesting jackets too: a bomber (£2,380, pictured left centre) in a geometrically patterned rust- coloured jacquard by Ermenegildo Zegna has contrasting-pattern sleeves with an l I’m struck by the world’s array of unusually lustrous Casentino finish, moon‑phase displays this year. Aside from a technique achieved by brushing the being visually charming, I like the fact that fabric to raise the top layer of fibres, they can help monitor the effect of the moon’s then rubbing to soften the effect. cycle on sleep patterns. I’m especially taken It’s also seen in Zegna’s Casentino with a particular white‑gold model (£15,600, suit (£3,360) in beige alpaca pictured right) from Jaeger-LeCoultre’s and silk, while a coat (£4,350) Master Ultra Thin Moon collection, with in oxblood alpaca with selenite‑grey dial, slim 9.9mm case, refined quilted calfskin sleeves slender bezel and alligator strap. is a real showstopper. 13 Old Bond St, London W1 (020‑3402 The longer, double-faced 1960; jaeger‑lecoultre.com). alpaca top (£695) at Joseph have a more unshorn finish that verges on shaggy and drapes beautifully, while Grenfell’s shaggy alpaca duffel (£1,395, pictured bottom far left) – a glossy knit with an almost -pelt feel – is eminently strokeable, and its Newfoundland duffel (£995) has a remarkable dégradé-fade Clockwise from main picture: mix of multihued mohair and alpaca. Brunello Cucinelli baby- For refined elegance, there’s also a loden- alpaca/wool/cashmere/silk green belted coat (£995) in alpaca and cardigan, £1,380. The Gigi wool with double-breasted lapels. alpaca/wool Degas suit, Light, hardwearing, wonderfully £1,150. Norse Projects wool/ textured and luxurious in feel – is it alpaca/elastane jumper, £180. any wonder that alpaca is ahead of Missoni wool/yak/alpaca the herd this season? ✦ coat, £3,895, and matching , £365. Gieves & Hawkes LEADERS OF THE ALPACA wool/alpaca V-neck, £295. Brunello Cucinelli, 3 Burlington Gdns, London Chester Barrie cashmere W1 (020‑7287 4347; brunellocucinelli.com). and alpaca-trim Change Canali, 126‑127 New Bond St, London W1 coat, £2,950 l The Ultra collection from French bottier JM Weston takes craftsmanship to admirable new heights, with construction techniques such as hand‑pegged heels built (020‑7290 3500; canali.com). Chester Barrie, in the same tradition as the Republican Guards boots the brand produces. Stylistic 19 Savile Row, London W1 (020‑7439 6079; refinements are evident too, with a new rounded toe realised in a series of vivid chesterbarrie.co.uk). Ermenegildo Zegna, calfskins with precision glaçage polishing on the tip (a very French touch). Subtle 37‑38 New Bond St, London W1 (020‑7518 detailing – pearl‑grey embossed welting to the , a hand‑dyed sole arch, waxed flat 2700; zegna.com). E Tautz, 71 Duke St, London laces – add further finesse. I rather liked a low calfskin (£755) and a wholecut W1 (020‑7629 8809; etautz.com). Farfetch, Oxford (£755), available in black, blue and (in the case of the latter) burgundy, but my farfetch.com. Frans Boone Store, frans favourite is the two‑tone Oxford (£755, pictured above) in suede and calfskin. boonestore.com. Gieves & Hawkes, 1 Savile 60 Jermyn St, London SW1 (020‑7629 9494; jmweston.com). Row, London W1 (020‑7434 2001; gievesand hawkes.com). The Gigi, see Farfetch. Grenfell, grenfell.com and see Harrods. Harrods, 87‑135 Brompton Rd, London SW1 (020‑7730 1234; l The archives of Cerruti hold many harrods.com). Inis Meáin, inismeain.ie and significant men’s style milestones, see Frans Boone Store. Joseph, 2 Savile Row, played out in both inventive fabrics (the London W1 (020‑7439 8444; joseph‑. house has its own mill) and roomy cuts. com). Massimo Alba, massimoalba.com and Cerruti has mined those archives for its see Matchesfashion.com. Matchesfashion.com, 50th‑anniversary collection, where the 60‑64 Ledbury Rd, London W11 (020‑7221 0255; brand’s textiles and weaves combine matchesfashion.com). Missoni, 193 Sloane St, with its signature masculine shapes for London SW1 (020‑7823 1910; missoni.com). clothes that bridge the divide between Norse Projects, norseprojects.com. and tailoring. A bomber jacket (£1,200) and double‑breasted overcoat (£1,250) come in grey houndstooth jacquard wool. Steely‑ blue, crisp‑feeling (£500) and a high‑break overcoat (£500) with fur collar are cut from . And homage is paid to Cerruti’s 1950s cinema heritage with a vintage‑style, camel‑coloured wool straight coat with fur shawl collar (£850), distinctive, low‑breaking charcoal striped wool double‑breasted suit (£2,000, both pictured left), collar bar and homburg.

GEORGE ONG. STUDIOCRUCHON ONG. GEORGE cerruti.com.

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