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439 4WD Tours 23, 341 a Abarqu 267 Ab Karm 132 Abbasi Caravanserai

439 4WD Tours 23, 341 a Abarqu 267 Ab Karm 132 Abbasi Caravanserai

© Lonely Planet Publications 439 Index

4WD tours 23, 341 Amir Chakhmaq Complex 260-1 Arg-e 151 334 Arian, Manoochehr 364 A 206 art galleries Abarqu 267 Anahita Temple 208 Aks Khaneh 104 Ab Karm 132 Andej 182 Calligraphy Gallery 357 Abbasi 156 213-14 Iranian Photographers’ Centre Abu Mirza 158 Anglican Church of St Simon the 107 231-2 Zealot 273-4 Jahan-Nama Museum & Gallery accommodation 369-71, see also Anglo-Iranian Oil Company 36 112-13 individual locations animals 87-9 Mehrva Gallery 122 language 424-5 Anniversary of the Arrest of Ayatollah Museum of Contemporary Art Achaemenids 27-30 Khomeini 385 242 activities 371-4, see also individual Anniversary of the Death of Fatima Khane 101 activities, locations 383 Sanati Museum of Contemporary 367-8 Palace 281-2 Art 316 Agha Bozorg & Madraseh Arab people 32, 50, 291 Seyhoun Art Gallery 122 228 Aramgah-e Hafez 274 Gallery 122 Agha Torab 208 Aramgah-e Sa’di 274 Museum of Contemporary 158-9 Aramgah-e Ne’matollah Vali Art 108

Ahari mausoleum 158 Caravanserai 320 Artaxerxes II, III 282-3 INDEX Ahmadabad 158 Aramgah-e Shah-e Cheragh 272 arts 61-77, see also individual arts Ahmadinejad, Mahmoud 41, 43 River 157 Asef Mansion 190 Ahowan 348 Arbaeen 383 383 219-20 archaeological sites Asiatic cheetah 88 air pollution 91 Bandiyan Archaeological Site Astara 165 air travel 400-2 367 ateshkadehs, see fire temples to/from 400-2 286 ATMs 388 to/from Tehran 123-4 367 Audience Palace 284 within Iran 406 Gerdab-e-Sangi cistern 208 Azad Shahr 344 Akhangan Tower 364 Haft Tappeh 215 Azadi Sports Stadium 122 Aks Khaneh 104 203 114 Alagöl 342 Hissar 346 Azarbayjan 146 Alam Kuh 175 324 Azarbayjan Museum 150-1 182 229 Azari people 49, 146 Alamut Valley 180-4, 181 208 (Azərbaycan) 146 Alasht 337-8 284-5 Azeri people 146 Alashtar Valley 213 279-83, 280, 7 Alaviyan 203 320 B Mountains 132-3 Shush 214 Baba Taher Mausoleum 203 Albuquerque, Afonso de 307 Tang-e Chogan 286 335 alcohol 82 architecture 65-8, 69, see also bridges, badgirs 30 towers Ardakan 267 Alexander’s Prison 260 160-3, 161 Bandar-e Bostanu 292 Alexander’s Wall 344 Ardakan 267 Bandar-e Lengeh 297 Qapu Palace 241 Ardashir’s Palace 286 Kashan 227 Ali Sadr Caves 206 Ardehal 231 Laft 306 Aliabad 344 area codes, see individual locations Tehran 104 Allah-Allah tower 162 Arg-e Bam 322-4 257 Al-Mahdi Hosseinieh 348 Arg-e Karim 271 Bagh-e Dolat Abad 261 Aminiha Hosseiniyeh 177 Arg-e 321 Bagh-e Eram 274 440 Index (B-C) Index (C-E) 441

Bagh-e Jahan Nama 274-5 Birthday of Ali 383 C cathedrals, see churches & sports 51 Death of Imam Ali 383 Bagh-e Mahrugh 365 Birthday of Imam Mahdi 383 calendars 375 cathedrals Tehran 122 Death of Imam Jafar Sadegh 383 Bagh-e Naranjestan 273 Bisheh Waterfalls 212 calligraphy 69 caves climate 15-16, 376 Death of Imam Reza 383 Bagh-e Shahzde 320 199-200 Calligraphy Gallery 357 Ali Sadr Caves 206 Code of Hammurabi 27 Death of the Prophet Mohammed 383 Bagh-e Tarikhi-ye Fin 229 Blue (Kabud) Mosque 150 camels Darband 348 conservation 88, 89, 90 Decorative Arts Museum of Iran 242 -e Olia 255 boat travel 405, 407 drug smuggling 313 Karaftu Caves 189 consulates 380-2 deep vein thrombosis 418 Baha’ism 57-8 Bogheh-ye Sayyed races 315, 326 Katalekhor Caves 184 cosmetic surgery 109 Deer Park 295 345 Roknaddin 260 tours 257, 313 Namakdan Cave 306 costs 16-17, 388, see also inside front deer, Persian fallow 89 Bakhtiar, 40 Bojnurd 345 camping 370 Tang-e Chogan 286 cover deforestation 91 Bakhtiyari people 218 145-6 canals 378 caviar 89, 170 courses 377 desert tours 257, 415 Baladeh 334-5 Book of Kings 32 car travel 403, 409-12, see also cell phones 392-3 crane, Siberian white 89 desertification 91 Baluchi people 50, 315 books 17-19, see also literature motorcycle travel cemeteries, see also tombs credit cards 389 219 Bam 322-4, 322 arts 70 driving licences 409 Behesht-e Zahra 131 cultural considerations 47, 49 diarrhoea 420 298-303, 299 carpets 62, 63 fuel cards 411 Bog’eh-ye Khajeh Rabi 357 language 425 digital photography 390 Bandar-e Anzali 170-1 culture 58, 59, 73, 75 hire 410 Zoroastrian cemetery 262 Mashti 357 diphtheria 419 Bandar-e Bostanu 292 food 79, 81 insurance 410 ceramics, see pottery photography etiquette 390 disabilities, travellers with 393 Bandar-e Lengeh 296-8, 296 health 418 petrol ration card office 353 Chaharshanbe Soori 57, 7 ta’arof 45 diving 372 Bandar-e Taheri 292 history 27, 29, 30, 32, 37, 38, 39 road distance chart 410 Chak Chak 266 transport 413 Greek shipwreck 293 Bandar-e Torkaman 341-2 politics 41 road rules 411-12 Chaldoran 137 women travellers 397 Kish Island 295 Bandari people 297 religion 57 safe travel 99, 380 Chalus 173-4 culture 45-60 Qeshm Island 305 Bandiyan Archaeological Site travel 17 66, 68 Char Khuh 306 arts 61-77 dizi 79 367 Boq’eh-ye Khajeh Rabi 357 Abbasi Caravanserai 156 Chateau de Morgan 214 books 58, 59, 73, 75 133 banks 388 Boq’e-ye Hordokieh’ 364 Aramgah-e Shah Ne’matollah Vali checkpoints 407 carpets 65 documentaries 54 Bardnashandar 219 border crossings Caravanserai 320 cheetah, Asiatic 88 cinema 47, 49, 50, 60, 73, 76, 77 Dokhtar Caravanserai 185

bargaining 392 Afghanistan 368, 403 Ahowan 348 Chehel Sotun 177 cosmetic surgery 109 Dolphin Park 295 INDEX Basij 379 158, 403 Caravanserai Azizolaof 357 Chehel Sotun Palace 241-2 customs 83 67 Bastam 138, 351 Azerbaijan 157, 166, 403 Caravanserai Zein-o-din 267 Chelgerd 252-3 education 48 Alaviyan Dome 203 INDEX bathrooms 393 checkpoints 407 Dokhtar Caravanserai 185 Cheshmeh Ali 349 emigration 52 -e Arqala 145 Bavanat 285 144 Fakhr Davood 364 chess 51 food 78 Gonbad-e-Hayaquq-Nabi 207 Bayazid Historical Complex 330 Farasvaj 208 children, travel with 375-6 immigration 52 Gonbad-e Jabaliye 317 351 136, 140, 404 Lasjerd 348 language 428 internet resources 59 Gonbad-e Kabul 145 Turkmenistan 346, 366, 405 Pichebon Caravanserai 183 Choqa Zanbil 215-17 population 48 Gonbad-e Kavus 342-3 Esfahan 238 Borj Kashani 351 Sharaf Caravanserai 365 57-60 religion 54-8 Gonbad-e Qaffariyeh 145 Kashan 225-6 Borj-e Qorban 203 Robat-e Noh 267 Chubi Bridge 243 sports 51 Gonbad-e-Sabz 358 Kerman315-16 213 carbon offset schemes 402 churches & cathedrals script 29 Gonbad-e Sorkh 145 361 bridges 108 Anglican Church of St Simon the customs regulations 377 Mil-e Gonbad 342 Minab 309 Chubi Bridge 243 carpet-washing ceremony 231 Zealot 273-4 cycling 372, 402, 406-7 Seh Gonbad 142 177 Karim Khan Bridge 286 carpets 61-5 Church of Bethlehem 244 Kish Island 295 Taj al-Molk Dome 238 272 243 books 62, 63 Church of St Mary 244 cypress tree 267 Dorbadam 345 Tabriz 150 Lashgar Bridge 218 internet resources 65 Church of St Stephanos 157 28, 29 Dorud 212 Tehran 100, 123 Pol-e-Ebrahimabad 162 museum 108 Manar Jomban 244 29 Dozda 328 Bazargan 136 Pol-e-Jajim 162 cash 388-9, 389 Qareh Kalisa 137 Cyrus’ Private Palace 284 drinks 80-1, 82 bazaris 101 Pol-e Qadim 219 174 St Mary’s (Orumiyeh) 140, 142 driving, see car travel, motorcycle Babak Castle 159 Pol-e-Sefid 337 , see also fortresses St Mary’s (Tabriz) 151 D travel bearded vulture 89 Pol-e-Shandravan 217 182 St Sarkis Church 138 Damghan 348-9 drug addiction 48 Behesht-e Zahra 131 Shahrestan Bridge 243 Babak Castle 159 Sarkis Cathedral 108 dangers, see safe travel drug smugglers 313, 325 338 Si-o-Seh Bridge 242-3 Castles of the Assassins 180, 182 Söhrüul Church 156 , Tomb of 214-15 dual-pricing 16, 388 bicycle travel, see cycling BuAli, Sina 202, 203 Falak-ol-Aflak 209 244 dar baste 413 DVDs 390 Bijar 189 burqas 297 Ghal’e-ye Portoghaliha 304 CIA 37 113 DVT 418 Bina, Sima 72 bus travel Javer Castle 158 cinema 18, 75-7 Darband 113, 348 birds 88-9 to/from Tehran 124-5 Lamiasar Castle 180-2 culture 47, 49, 50, 60, 73, 76, 77 Darbansar 132-3 E within Iran 407-9, 412 Narein castle 266 documentaries 54 Dargaz 367 earthquakes 323, 377-8 000 Map pages 288-92, 290 Portuguese castle 307-8 festivals 382 Darius 28, 30, 214 Ebadi, Shirin 59 000 Photograph pages bushwalking, see trekking Qal’eh Salosel 217 internet resources 75, 76 Darvazeh-ye Quran 275 203 business hours 374 Castle 172 museum 109 Dasht-e Kavir 253 economy 16, 25, 41-2, 43-4, 47, 52, 388 442 Index (E-H) Index (H-K) 443

education 48, 53 film, see cinema Gül Tappeh 139 Qajars 35-6 -ye Abu Lolou 228 Masjed-e Jameh-ye Atigh 273 Eid al-Fitr 383 Film Museum of Iran 109 Gur 286 Revolution 38 Imamzadeh-ye Ali Ebn-e Hamze 274 Masjid-i Soleiman 218-19 Eid-e Ghorban 383 fire temples Safavids 33-5 Imamzadeh-ye Mohammed Na’in 253 Elamites 27 Ateshkadeh (Yazd) 261-2 H Sassanians 31 Mahrugh 365 232 electricity 369 Ateshkadeh-ye Esfahan 244 Habakkuk 207 Second Persian Empire 31 Imamzadeh-ye Hossein 177, 203 Qazvin 177 email services, see internet access Firuz 312 Hafez 74 Seljuks 32 Imamzadeh-ye Yahya 336 191 embassies 380-2 Kaba Zartosht 284 Haft Cheshmeh 212 Silk Road 34, 34 Soltan Zein-ol-Abedin 336 Sari 336 emergency services, see individual -e-Sabz fire temple 266 Haft Tappeh 215 Tamerlane 32-3 immigration 52, 400 Semnan 346 locations, inside front cover First Persian Empire 27-30 Haftevan 139 Third Persian Empire 33-5 inflation 25 218 emigration 52, 53 Firuz Abad 285-6 Haji Kazem Cistern 177 hitching 412 insect bites 421 Tabriz 150 employment 47, 53 Firuz Fire Temple 312 Hamadan 200-5, 201 HIV 419 insurance Yazd 259 environmental issues 91 food 78-85, 383 hammams holidays 16, 383-5 car 410 Zanjan 185 climate change 402 books 79, 81 Agha Torab 208 Holy Shrine of Imam Khomeini 130 health 417 Jami mausoleum 368 conservation 88, 89, 90 cultural considerations 78, 83 Hamam-e Haji 208 homestays 371 travel 385-6 Javer Castle 158 fuel emissions 91 internet resources 83 Hamam-e Ganj Ali Khan 315 Hormoz Island 306-8, 307 International Fajr Theatre Festival 382 jet lag 418-19 Paykans 414 language 84-5 Hammam-e Ali Gholi Agha 242 Hormoz Village 308-9 International Festival of Ritual & Jiroft 324 Ramsar Convention 90 restaurants 80 Hammam-e Sultan Mir Ahmad 228 horse riding 347 Traditional Plays 382 Jolfa (Esfahan) 243-4 equal rights 58 football 50, 51 Hammam-e Vakil 272 Hosseiniehs, see also mausoleums, international transfers (money) 389 Jolfa () 156-7 Esfahan 232-52, 233, 234, 237, 238, fortresses, see also castles Mehdi Gholibek Hamam 357 shrines, tombs internet access 54, 313, 386 jubs 378 239, 245, 8 Abu Mirza 158 Qazvin 177 Al-Mahdi Hosseinieh 348 internet resources 19 Judaism 57-8 accommodation 246-8 Alamut Valley 180 Haremsara 282 Amir Chakhmaq Complex 260-1 birds 89 emergency services 234 Dezhe Sasal Fortress 165 Harra Sea Forest 306 Takieh Biglar Begi 197 carpets 65 K food 248-50 Fortress of Lions 262 Hasanlu 144 Takieh Mo’aven ol-Molk 197 cinema 75, 76 Kaba Zartoshi 284 internet access 234-5 Maku 136 Palace 242 hot springs culture 59 Kabud Waterfall 344

itineraries 236 Qal’eh Hamza Khan 208 Hazrat-e Masumeh 223 Ab Karm 132 food 83 Kabudi Island 144 INDEX medical services 235 Qal’eh Rudkhan 172 health 417-22 Garmeh 254 geogoraphy 87 Kalat 366-7 shopping 250 Qal’eh Tabarak 131 children, travelling with 421 Meshgin Shahr 160 health 418 Kaleno 175 INDEX sights 236-45 Takht-e Soleiman 187 insurance 417 Sara’eyn 163 music 72, 73 159-220 tourist information 236 fuel emissions 91 Heart-Rending Departure of the Great hotels 370-1 politics 26 Kaluts, the 87, 321, 10 tours 236, 245-6 Fuman 171 Leader of the Islamic Republic of Howraman 194 religion 57, 58 Kamkars, the 72 travel to/from 250-1 Iran 385 Tehran 96-7 Kandovan 155-6 travel within 251-2 G heat illness 420-1 I Iran Ebrat Museum 105 Kang 363 & Tomb 202 205-6 Hegmataneh Hill 203 ice houses 66 Iran–Iraq War 39-40 Kangan 292 exchange rates, see inside front cover gardens, see parks & gardens hepatitis A, B 419 Abarqu 267 Iranian Photographers’ Centre 107 Karaftu Caves 189 export restrictions 377 Garmarud 183 Hercules statue 200 Meybod 266 Iraq 403 176 Garmeh 254 Hadish 282 Moayedi Ice House 316 , see Esfahan Karim Khan Bridge 286 F gay travellers 383 hiking, see trekking Yakhchad-e Mirfattah 206 32, 54-5, 375 Karim Khan Zand 35 Fajr Film Festival 382 Gazor Khan 182-3 Hissar 346 illustrated manuscripts 70 Islamic Republic Day 385 Kashan 224-30, 226 Fakhr Davood 364 geography 86-7 history Imam Khomeini International Airport 42 accommodation 229-30 Falak-ol-Aflak 209 geology 86-7 Achaemenids 27-30 (IKIA) 123, 126 itineraries 20-4 food 230 fallow deer, Persian 89 galleries, see art galleries Alexander the Great 30 Imam Khomeini Mosque 100 Esfahan 236 sights 225-6 Fandoqlu 164 Ghal’e-ye Portoghaliha 304 books 27, 29, 30, 32, 37, 38, 39 Imam Khomeini (Sultani) Mosque 346 Tehran 96 tours 225 Farasvaj 208 Gharra Tappeh Sheikh 343-4 CIA 37 Imam Mosque (Esfahan) 239-40, 239 travel to/from 230 Farhad Dameh 136 Gilan Rural Heritage Museum 168 dynasties 28 Imam Mosque () 316 J travel within 230 Farhad Tarash 200 Gilani cottages 168 Elamites 27 Imam Reza’s tomb, see -e Jahan-Nama Museum & Gallery 112-13 Kashi tomb, Mullah Hasan 184 Farsan 253 Glass & Ceramics Museum 106-7 First Persian Empire 27-30 Razavi Jameh Bazar 123 Katalekhor Caves 184 Farsi 423-8 glassware 70 Iran–Iraq War 39-40 Imam Sq 238-41, 238 Jameh 316 286 Ferdosi, Hakim Abulqasim 74 Golestan National Park 343 Islam 32 56 Abyaneh 231 175-6 Ferdosi Mausoleum 363 101-4 Karim Khan Zand 35-44 , see also mausoleums Ardabil 162 Kerman 312-19, 314 festivals 382 , see domes Khan, Genghis 32-3 Imamzadeh Jafar 349 Damghan 349 accommodation 317-18 fairy chimneys 155 338-41, 339 27 Imamzadeh-e Habib Ibn-e Musa 228 Esfahan 236-8, 237 emergency services 313 government 40-2, 42-3 35 Imamzadeh Shah-e Abdal-Azim 131 Gorgan 338 food 318 000 Map pages Grand (Bazar-e Sartasari) 315-16 Pahlavis 36-8 Imamzadeh-ye Abbas 336 Hamadan 203 internet access 313 000 Photograph pages Greek shipwreck 293 Parthians 31 Imamzadeh-ye Abd al-Samad 232 Kerman 316 shopping 318 Green Palace 111 politics 39 Imamzadeh-ye Abdollah 203 197 sights 315-17 444 Index (K-M) Index (M-P) 445

Kerman continued lammergeiers 89 Mashhad 351-63, 352, 354, 356 metalwork 70-1 petrol ration card office 353 Namakdan Cave 306 tourist information 313 Langar 367 accommodation 358 metric conversions, see inside front road distance chart 410 Naqsh-e Rajab 284 tours 313 language 73, 80, 423-8, 429-30 emergency services 353 cover road rules 411-12 Naqsh-e Rostam 283-4 travel to/from 318-19 courses 377 food 360 metro 127-9, 412 safe travel 99, 380 Narein castle 266 travel within 319 food 84-5 sights 354 Meybod 266-7 Mt Damavand 131-2, 334 Natanz 232 Kermanshah (Western Iran) 195-9, Lashgar Bridge 218 shopping 361 311-12 Mt Karkas 231 National Jewels Museum 105-6 196 Lasjerd 348 tourist information 353 114 Mt Khan Gormaz 208 104-5 Khaju Bridge 243 165 travel to/from 361 Mil-e Gonbad 342 Mount of Mercy 281 national parks 90 Khal Khal 164-5 legal matters 386 travel within 363 Mil-e-Radkan (West Radkan) 341 Mt Oshturan 212 Negar Khane 101 Khalid Nibi Shrine 344 leishmaniasis 419 Mashhad-e Ardehal 231 Minab 308-9, 324 Mt Parvis 212 Negel Quran 193 Khalij-e Fars 289 lesbian travellers 383 Mashti 357 67, 244 Mt Rahmat 281 Neishabur 364, 364-5 Khamenei, Ali 40 literacy 48 Masjed-e Jameh, see Jameh Mosques miniatures 69 Mt Sahand 155 newspapers 53, 369 Khan, Genghis 32-3, 33 literature 73-5, see also books Masjid-i Soleiman 218-19 minibus travel 412, 414 Mt Takht-e Soleiman 175 Niasar 231 Khan Takhti 139 travel 17 171-2 Minudasht 345 mountaineering 372-3 Niyavaran Palace 112-13 Khan-e Abbasian 227-86 lacquer work 70 mausoleums, see also Hosseiniehs, Mir Razi Mausoleum 207 Alam Kuh 175 Na’in 253-4 Khan-e Ameriha 227 Lor people 50, 207 imamzadehs, shrines, tombs Mir-e Zobair mausoleum 312 Kelardasht 175-6 No Ruz 384-5, 385 Khan-e Borujerdi 227 Ahari mausoleum 158 Mirjaveh 331 Mt Damavand 132 nomadic people 50, 164, 218, 285 Khan-e Khomeini 223 M Aramgah-e Shah-e Cheragh 272 Mission of Holy Prophet 383 Mt Oshturan 212 Norduz 158 Khan-e Lari 260 madrasehs Aramgah-e Shah Ne’matollah Vali Mithrades II 200 Mt Sabalan 160 Noshahr 173-4 Khan-e Tabatabei 227 & Madraseh 319-20 Miyando’ab 146 Mountaineering Federation of Iran 188 Khan-e Zinat ol-Molk 273 228 Baba Taher Mausoleum 203 Mo’allem Kalayeh 182 175, 253 nuclear energy program 42 Khanegah Dervish Monastery 184 Ghydar Nabi 184 Bogheh-ye Sayyed Roknaddin 260 Moayedi Ice House 316 Mullah Hasan Kashi tomb 184 nuclear reactor 288 Khaneh Kolbadi 336 Madraseh va Masjed-e Sepahsalar Boq’eh Chelabi-oglu Mausoleum mobile phones 392-3 museums, see also art galleries Nushijan (Tappeh Nush-e Jan) Khanum (Women’s) Mosque 185 107 184 modern art 71-2 Asef Mansion 190 206-7

Kharanaq 266 Madraseh-ye Chahar Bagh 242 Boq’eh-ye Khajeh Rabi 357-8 money 16-17, 387-90, see also inside Azarbayjan Museum 150-1 INDEX Khatami, Mohammad 40 Madraseh-ye Khan 273 Boq’e-ye Hordokieh’ 364 front cover Carpet Museum OF Iran 108 O Khayyam, 32, 46, 74, 364-5 Madraseh-ye Nimurvand 245 BuAli Sina () Mausoleum moneychangers 389 Decorative Arts Museum of Iran oases INDEX Khomeini, Ayatollah Ruhollah 37, 38, Magnificent Victory of the Islamic 203 mosaferkhanehs 371 242 Garmeh 254 130, 131 Revolution of Iran 384 Ferdosi Mausoleum 363 Moshtari-ye Moshtaq Ali Shah 316 Film Museum of Iran 109 Haft Tappeh 215 Khorramabad 208-12, 210 144 Gonbad-e-Sabz 358 mosques, see also Jameh Mosques Gilan Rural Heritage Museum 168 Qasr-e Shirin 144 Khorshid Palace 366 Mahan 319-20 Jami mausoleum 368 Agha Bozorg Mosque & Madraseh Glass & Ceramics Museum 106-7 Shafi Abad 321 Khotbeh Sara 165 Mahdishahr 348 Khanegah Dervish Monastery 184 228 Haremsara 282 Tabas 254-5 Khoy 138-9 mahmooly 408-9 Makhtumkuli mausoleum 342 Blue (Kabud) Mosque 150 Iran Ebrat Museum 105 Omar Khayyam Tomb Complex kilims, see carpets Mahti 357 Mir Razi Mausoleum 207 Imam Khomeini (Sultani) Mosque Khan-e Zinat ol-Molk 273 364-5 Kiosk 73 mail services 390-1 Mir-e Zobair mausoleum 312 346 Museum of Contemporary Art 242 Oil Nationalisation Day 385 Kish Island 292-6, 294 Makhmalbaf, Mohsen 76 Moshtari-ye Moshtaq Ali Shah 316 Imam Khomeini Mosque 100 Museum of the Holy Defence 317 One Million Signatures Campaign 58 Kordkuy 341 Makhtumkuli mausoleum 342 Nader Shah Mausoleum 358 Imam Mosque (Esfahan) 239-40, Museum of the Islamic Period 105 Orumiyeh 140-4, 141 Koulaie, Elaheh 60 Maku 136-7 Oljeitu Mausoleum 184 239 National Jewels Museum 105-6 Oshtoran 208 Kuh-e Khajeh 331 malaria 419-20 Poets’ Mausoleum 151 Imam Mosque (Kerman) 316 National Museum of Iran 104-5 155 Kuh-e Sangi 358 206 Shahabdin Ahari, Sheikh 158-9 Khanum (Women’s) Mosque 185 Niyavaran Palace Museum 112-13 Kurdish people 49, 190 mammals 87-8 Sheikh Safi-od-Din Mausoleum Martyr’s Mosque 272 Paleontological Museum 317 P Manar Jomban 244 162 Nabi-e Sardab Mosque 208 271 Pahlavi, Mohammad Reza 36, 283 L 58 Sheikh Zahed Mausoleum 173 Nasir-ol-Molk Mosque 273 Qazvin Museum 177 Pahlavis 36-8 Laft 306, 11 mangrove forest 306 Mazandaran 334-5 Qazvin 177 114 painting 68-9 172-3 172 Mazdak 32 240, 8 Sa’d Abad Museum Complex Pakistan 403-5 lakes manuscripts, Illustrated 70 measures, see inside front cover Mosque 228 109-12 palaces Alagöl 342 maps 386-7 Medes 27 Tarikhuneh Mosque 349 Shush Museum 214 Ali Qapu Palace 241 Lake Gahar 212 Maran 183 medical services 419, see also health, Mossadegh, Mohammad 36, 37 music 72-3 Apadana Palace 281-2 Orumiyeh 144-5 156 individual locations motion sickness 418-19 Ardashir’s Palace 286 Valasht Mountain Lake 175 Maraqeh 145, 145 Mehdi Gholibek Hamam 357 motorcycle travel 403, 409-12, see N Audience Palace 284 Lamiasar Castle 180-2 marine life 89 mehmanpazirs 371 also car travel Nabi-e Sardab Mosque 208 Chehel Sotun 177 Marivan 193-4 Mehrabad International Airport driving licences 409 Nader Shah 35 Chehel Sotun Palace 241-2 000 Map pages markets, see bazaars 123, 126 fuel cards 411 Nader Shah Mausoleum 358 Cyrus’ Private Palace 284 000 Photograph pages marquetry 70 Mehrva Gallery 122 hire 410 208 Golestan Palace 101-4 Martyr’s Mosque 272 Meshgin Shahr 160 insurance 410 Namak Abrud 175 Green Palace 111 446 Index (P-S) Index (S-T) 447

Palaces continued Pol-e-Ebrahimabad 162 restaurants 80 Sassanians 31 shrines, see also Hosseiniehs, emergency services 148 Hadish 282 Pol-e Qadim 219 Revolution 38 savari travel 415 imamzadehs, mausoleums, tombs food 153-4 Hasht Behesht Palace 242 Pol-e-Jajim 162 Rey 131 scams 378 Haram-e Razavi 354-7 internet access 148-9 Khorshid Palace 366 Pol-e-Sefid 337 Reyneh Mountain Federation Hut 132 scuba diving, see diving Holy Shrine of Imam Khomeini 130 sights 150 Niyavaran Palace 112 Pol-e-Shandravan 217 Reza, Imam 353 seasons 370 Khalid Nibi Shrine 344 tourist information 149 Palace H 282 poliomyelitis 420 Reza Abbasi Museum 114 Second Persian Empire 31 Saheb-al Zaman shrine 218 tours 149 Palace of 100 Columns 283 politics 35-42 rials 387 security 378-80 Seyid Mohammad Golabi Shrine 218 travel to/from 154-5 Palace of Darius 214 cinema 40 Robat Sharaf Caravanserai 365 Sefidrud 172 Shushtari Shrine 218 travel within 155 Palace of Shapur 286 history 38, 39 Robat-e Noh 267 Seh Gonbad 142 Shush 214-15 Tachara 282 Qal’eh-e Doktar 285-6 internet resources 26 rock carvings Seljuks 32 Shushtar 217-18 Taj al-Molk Dome 238 Tachara 282 Iran–Iraq War 39-40 Bisotun 199-200 Semnan 346-8, 347 Sialk 229 188-9 White Palace 111 pollution 91 Ganjnameh 205-6 Sepid Dasht 212 Siberian white crane 89 Takht-e Soleiman 187-8 Palangan 193 Polo, Marco 33 Taq-e Bostan 197 Sepidan 253 Silk Road 34, 34 Takieh Biglar Begi 197 Paleontological Museum 317 population 25, 26, 40, 48-50 rock climbing 373 Sero 139-40 silk-weaving 155 Takieh Mo’aven ol-Molk 197 parks & gardens Portuguese castle 307-8 rock tombs 283-4 Seyhoun Art Gallery 122 Si-o-Seh Bridge 242-3 Tamerlane 32-3 Bagh-e Dolat Abad 261 postal services 390-1 rabies 420 Seyid Mohammad Golabi Shrine 218 Siraf 292 Tang-e Chogan 286 Bagh-e Eram 274 pottery 71 rugs, see carpets Shafi Abad 321 312 Tappeh-ye Seyalk 229 Bagh-e Jahan Nama 274-5 Prison of 284 74 Shah, Reza 36, 36-8 Siyah Rud 158 Taq-e Bostan 197 Bagh-e Mahrugh 365 Rusai-Urutur 138 Shah Abbas the Great 240 Sizdah be Dar 385 Tarikhuneh Mosque 349 Bagh-e Naranjestan 273 Q Shahabdin Ahari, Sheikh 158 skiing 373-4, 10 Tasua 383 Bagh-e Nazar 271 Qadamgah Razavi 364 S Shahdad 320-1 Alborz Mountains 132-3 139 Bagh-e Shahzde 320 Qadir-e Khom 384 Sa’d Abad Museum Complex 109-12 Shahmirzad 348 Chelgerd 252-3 taxi travel 412-16, 414-15 Bagh-e Tarikhi-ye Fin 229 Qa’emshahr 337 Sa’di 74 32 Dizin 133 Women’s Taxi Company 129 Park-e Jamshidiyeh 113 Qajars 35-6 Safavids 33-5 Shahr-e Kord 252 Ganjnameh 205 Taybad 368

Park-e Laleh 107 Qal’eh Hamza Khan 208 safe travel 377-80 Shahrchay Dam 142 Kelardasht 175 tea 172 INDEX Park-e Mellat 108-9 Qal’eh Rudkhan 172 car travel 99, 411 Shahrestan Bridge 243 Mt Sahand 152 teahouses Park-e Shahr 104 Qal’eh Salosel 217 drug smugglers 313, 325 Shahrud 350-1 Sepidan 253 Esfahan 243, 249-50 INDEX Parthians 31 Qal’eh-e Doktar 285-6 hitching 412 Shahsevan (Elsevan) nomads 164 133 Kashan 230 Pasargadae 284-5 qalyans 81 motocycle travel 99 Shahzadeh-ye Ibrahim 229 Shiraz 271 Shahr-e Kord 252 passports 400 216, 260 motorcycle travel 99, 411 shaking minarets 244 Tabriz 152 Shiraz 278 194-5 Qarachilar 158 road hazards 411 138 snake bites 421 Tehran 120-1 Payam 156 Qareh Kalisa 137-220 Tehran 98-100 Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque 240, 8 snorkelling 295, 372 Tehran 92-133, 94, 102-3, 110, Paykans 414 Qareh Ziya’eddin 138 water 421 Sheikh Safi-od-Din Mausoleum 162 soccer 50, 51 130 Peacock Throne 106 Qazvin 176-80, 178 women travellers 398-9 Sheikh Zahed Mausoleum 173 Söhrüul Church 156 accommodation 114-17 Persepolis 279-83, 280, 7 Qeshm Geopark 306 327 Shemiran Castle 172 Soltan Zein-ol-Abedin 336 emergency services 96 Persian carpets, see carpets Qeshm Island 303-6, 304 saffron 361 Shemshak 133 Soltaniyeh 184 entertainment 121-2 Persian fallow deer 89 Qeshm Town 304-6 Saheb A Zaman Club Zurkhaneh 261 Shevi Waterfall 212 Soltaniyeh Mosque 228 food 117-21 Persian Gulf 287-309, 288 222-4, 224 Saheb-al Zaman shrine 218 Shiism 55 special events, see festivals internet resources 96 Persian people 49 345 St Mary’s (Orumiyeh) 140, 142 Shiraz 267-79, 268 sponsors 395-6 itineraries 96 petrol ration card office 353 St Mary’s (Tabriz) 151 accommodation 275-7 sports 51 medical services 97 petrol rationing 411 R St Sarkis Church 138 emergency services 270 spur-thighed tortoises 89 sights 100-14 photography 390 radio 369 Salajanbar 183 food 277-8 Statue of 286 tourist information 98 Pichebon Caravanserai 183 Radkan 364 Salambar Pass 183 internet access 270 sturgeon 89 tours 98 pigeon towers 244-5, 267 Rajai, Ali 39 139 shopping 278 55 travel to/from 123-6 Pir Alamdar 349 Rajavi, Kazem 40 Salt Man 105 sights 271-5 suites 371 travel within 126-9 Pir-e-Sabz fire temple 266 Rakhatshor-Khaneh 185 Sanandaj 189-93, 191 tourist information 271 Sunnism 55 Tehran Declaration 36 planning 15-19, see also itineraries Ramazan 384 Sanati Museum of Contemporary tours 271 Sust 165 Tehran Museum of Contemporary plants 89-90 Ramsar 173 Art 316 travel to/from 278-9 Art 108 plastic surgery 109 Ramsar Convention 90 sand castles, see Kaluts travel within 279 T Tehran Short Film Festival 382 poetry 73-5 165-70, 167 Sang-e Shir 203 Sholoq 365 ta’arof 45 Tehran University 98 Poets’ Mausoleum 151 Rawlinson, Henry 199 Sara’eyn 163-4 shopping 391, see also individual Tabas 254-5 telephone services 391-3 Rayen 321-2 365, 365-6 locations Tabl 306 temples, see also fire temples, 000 Map pages Razmiyan 180-2 Sari 335-7, 335 bargaining 392 Tabriz 146-55, 147, 148 ziggurats 000 Photograph pages religion 54-8 Sarkis Cathedral 108 carpets 64-5 accommodation 152 Anahita Temple 208 reserves 90 Saryazd 267 language 427 activities 152 Paveh 195 © Lonely Planet Publications 448 Index (T-W) Index (X-Z) 449

tent city 283 camel trekking 257, 313, Oljeitu Mausoleum 184 X shopping 265 Zayandeh River 242 textiles 71 373 Takht-e Soleiman 187-8 Xerxes 28, 30, 205, 281, 282, sights 259-62 Zein-o-din 267 Tezatre Shahr 122 desert tours 257, 415 Unesco Geopark 306 283, 284 tourist information 257 Zendan-e Soleiman 188 theatre 77 eco-tours 373, 415 , see Orumiyeh tours 257 ziggurats festivals 382, 383 safaris 406 US Den of Espionage 107 Y travel to/from 265-6 Choqa Zanbil 215-17 Tezatre Shahr 122 walking 245-6, 262-3 Yakhchad-e Mirfattah 206 travel within 266 Tappeh-ye Seyalk 229 Third Persian Empire 33-5 towers V Yasuj 253 56-8, 261, 375 Throne of Soleiman 188 Akhangan Tower 364 vacations 16, 383-5 Yazd 255-66, 258, 262, 9 Z zurkhanehs 52 Throne of the Mother of Solomon Allah-Allah tower 162 Valasht Mountain Lake 175 accommodation 263-4 329-30 Ardabil 162 284 Azadi Tower 114 Valerian 216 food 264-5 252-3 Rayen 321 Thursday Market of Minab 309 Borj Kashani 351 Vana 334 internet access 256-7 Zahedan 326-9, 326-7 Saheb A Zaman Club Zurkhaneh 66 Borj-e Qorban 203 Vank Cathedral 244 medical services 257 Zanjan 184-7, 186 261 time 393, 450-1 Milad Tower 114 vegetarian travellers 82 tipping 389 Mil-e Gonbad 342 video systems 390 Tochal Telecabin 113 pigeon towers 244-5, 267 visa extensions 395, 396 toilets 393 Pir Alamdar 349 Esfahan 236 tomans 387 Soltan Zein-ol-Abedin 336 Hamadan 202 tombs, see also mausoleums, shrines, Towers of Silence 262 Kerman 313, 315 towers train travel Mashhad 354 Aramgah-e Hafez 274 Dorud-Andimeshk Railway Rasht 168 Aramgah-e Sa’di 274 212 Shiraz 271 Artaxerxes II, III 282-3, 284 to/from Iran 404 Tabriz 150 Choqa Zanbil 216 to/from Tehran 125-6 Tehran 98 Darius 283-4 trans-Alborz railway 337 Yazd 258-9

Esther & Mordecai Tomb 202 within Iran 416 Zahedan 326-7 INDEX Haram-e Razavi 354-7 travellers cheques 389-90 visas 393-6, see also passports, visa Hazrat-e Masumeh 223 Treasury 282 extensions INDEX Imam Reza 355, 357 trekking 374 transit visas 24 Khomeini, Ayatollah Ruhollah Alamut Valley 180-4 Volvo buses 408-9 130 Darband 113 vulture, bearded 89 Manar Jomban 244 Gazor Khan 182 Mashhad-e Ardehal 231 Kelardasht 175 W Mullah Hasan Kashi tomb 184 Mashhad 353 walking tours 245-6, 262-3 Naqsh-e Rostam 283-4 Masuleh 171 watermills 217 Omar Khayyam Tomb Complex Nahar Khoran 339 waterfalls 364-5 Orumiyeh 140 Bisheh Waterfalls 212 Pasargadae 284 Takht-e Soleiman 187 Kabud Waterfall 344 Persepolis 279 Tochal 133 Shevi Waterfall 212 shaking minarets 244 tours 373 weather 15-16 Shush 214 Tripylon (Xerxes’ Hall of Audience) websites, see internet resources 284 282 weights, see inside front cover 214-15 Towiserkan 207 West Radkan Tower 341 Tomb of the 12 Imams 260 tuberculosis 420 white crane, Siberian 89 Xerxes 283-4 Turkmen people 50, 343 White Palace 111 Torbat-e Jam 367-8 Tus 363-4 wildlife 87-90, see also individual tortoises, spur-thighed 89 207 animals, plants Toudeshk 253 TV 53-4, 369 windtowers, see badgirs tourist information 393 , the 56 women in Iran 58-60 tours 405-6 typhoid 420 women travellers 396-9 4WD 23, 341 women’s health 421-2 © Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally adventure agencies 373 U Women’s Taxi Company restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes underwater canals 216, 260 129 only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to Unesco World Heritage sites World Heritage sites, see Unesco 000 Map pages everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying 000 Photograph pages Choqa Zanbil 215-17 World Heritage sites Esfahan 232 wrestling 345 the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’

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